tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-68284276619434472022024-03-25T07:06:55.681-07:00SenderosMarcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.comBlogger33125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-59472590175000204162024-03-24T14:42:00.000-07:002024-03-24T23:57:58.716-07:00Welcome to New Zealand<p>Wow - so here we are in 2024, 2008 seems like a lifetime ago and also yesterday. I wasn't sure if I would ever resurrect this blog - especially after only posting a few half-hearted updates on Facebook for our 2012 New Zealand cycle tour, but wanted to share a bit of my most recent cycling adventure and after going back between What'sApp and Messenger and Facebook and emails and - there are just too many choices, so it's back to blogger, a simple url I can send to anyone who might be interested.<br /><br />Plus I got to relive a bit of that 2008 magic - and uncovered and finally posted the last entries of that tour which have been sitting in some long-forgotten to-do list collecting digital dust.<br /><br />My how times have changed: new job, a happy marriage, new home country, all the (normal?) political chaos of the past 1.5 decades, another new job with Muk helping run our youth hostel - right into the ground - and trying to resurrect this old house as a home for perhaps a dozen or so humble folks at some point. But first the big roof and foundation work - and then the interiors. We have time. Also a once-in-a-lifetime-but-somehow-recurring-every-few-years-now storm, a pandemic, joining the local Green Party (ah - New Zealand, where non-citizen-residents are welcome to vote in elections while citizens who stay abroad eventually aren't) and cycling to a party event in Wellington. Somehow cycling and living and traveling humbly is still a simple joy. Muk and I are making a go here in Gisborne and happy to welcome any who find your way here.<br /><br />I guess that's a reasonable intro after a long hiatus.<br /><br />As mentioned at the end, we've both joined the Green Party and I've also tried to become more active within their Degrowth network, so decided to attend the summer conference outside Wellington - and me, being me, thought cycling would be a good way to attend. Unfortunately that's apparently a crazier idea than I feel it should be for most folks, even Greens, but here we are. It was a decent challenge, the same gently maintained/neglected '91 Schwinn Crosscut with more or less the same setup as the S. America tour was my trusty steed (and tent and sleeping bag and...) and it performed admirably. By and large, so did my aging self - a few more aches and pains - and even a few less, no knee problems!<br /><br />Anyway, just wanted to share a few thoughts, pictures, routes, videos and felt Blogger is still an appropriate platform for a mix of text (remember reading?) and media.<br /><br />So <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1i3nYaO2pFC7hJ70gss9EMkPQqdZ-l4s&usp=sharing">this</a> was the route down - top of the Whareratas to Lake Tutira (~143km, 19.7kph avg, 67kph max)to Norsewood (139km, 19.2, 70.5) to Waikanae Beach (168km, 18.5, 54.6):</p><p> <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAV_dv25PtZuALAvha9eP2CbJeP7eYLWerXcgq6KeHCPjK_5ntdbJOYGJTXIlQeOvnXU6PbBLv_WVO8M1Iw0629SD0V3pck2ua50H_qzql8bP-MoJq6oFDiPhzQf7BNIJDvyu2WwqkjxisHSS6tj8Auc3vjfuzkgjUAKlUmowMdXsvy3DStbNqTlc8cPpW/s1038/ToWelly.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="795" data-original-width="1038" height="451" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAV_dv25PtZuALAvha9eP2CbJeP7eYLWerXcgq6KeHCPjK_5ntdbJOYGJTXIlQeOvnXU6PbBLv_WVO8M1Iw0629SD0V3pck2ua50H_qzql8bP-MoJq6oFDiPhzQf7BNIJDvyu2WwqkjxisHSS6tj8Auc3vjfuzkgjUAKlUmowMdXsvy3DStbNqTlc8cPpW/w589-h451/ToWelly.png" width="589" /></a></div><p></p><p>I got a late day start after spending the morning packing and parging:</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPeQ_put6xDzp3KR98tsBfArg-j6fUIosyinZbzzDKqJeRFXUoLfW0WvdpUQynhUi2yGyPM36sUioNll2gvkFWvI630rHwFw3Ce3MsFOSCoVEE_w6yzbuoGbV25buhfundMJ5K26my6kjQ-dP0JkRlm2n0wYwZn53HtPQRvF6eTXQtlUhkQZEILxYBdGV/s5504/DSC_7329.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPeQ_put6xDzp3KR98tsBfArg-j6fUIosyinZbzzDKqJeRFXUoLfW0WvdpUQynhUi2yGyPM36sUioNll2gvkFWvI630rHwFw3Ce3MsFOSCoVEE_w6yzbuoGbV25buhfundMJ5K26my6kjQ-dP0JkRlm2n0wYwZn53HtPQRvF6eTXQtlUhkQZEILxYBdGV/s320/DSC_7329.JPG" width="320" />(before)</a> <br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEcL6uRP6HIQjinSNALin8wbt4Xr3mVoLLQK7yki7iRl8ua9Wh0h09Mvm6mehQAC8dkOAT5KVy8ggf9NJ0Qk6yex1pkQlGqC1Gavqg5__s1k3TDxW8J8J2tCADGzRkAHpFLm4HHMTmmKFJL2gaysQg_ggzadhW-JVuBcWaLKb6oVCnmAQfoAjNEYqSZnTH/s4160/20240316_085744.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEcL6uRP6HIQjinSNALin8wbt4Xr3mVoLLQK7yki7iRl8ua9Wh0h09Mvm6mehQAC8dkOAT5KVy8ggf9NJ0Qk6yex1pkQlGqC1Gavqg5__s1k3TDxW8J8J2tCADGzRkAHpFLm4HHMTmmKFJL2gaysQg_ggzadhW-JVuBcWaLKb6oVCnmAQfoAjNEYqSZnTH/s320/20240316_085744.jpg" width="320" />(after)</a><br /><br /> - Parging would be applying a thin coat of a thick sand/cement-heavy mortar-like concrete to fill imperfections in the deepest corners of our newly poured front entrance foundation where the vibrator didn't quite reach well (hard to do that in a 1.5m deep form full of rebar). The kind of thing that's best to apply as freshly as possible to the underlying substrate, so didn't want to leave it another 2 weeks. That was Valentine's Day Morning. With the US-Central/NZ time zone difference it was pretty close to my departure time on my first big solo ride back on 13 Feb from a wintry Chicago way back in '96 heading south. Same bike and bearing again.<br /><br />So Muk gave me a lift to the top of the Wharerata's (7331) - the small mountains/big hills south of us - to the overlook 450m up and saving about 2h of cycling <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1OPjX7W0foB8zUx_cBPekMyjBNYicnk8RENuOknxzJ4LkomYdAjoPO_ykb6Aj07ChyphenhyphenEE3H5vp6Ju9M574yo4wPf2pWh1XRNqVfrRL6-UNM9rhF8OKVcM-tbjaARshHQVfG5360b1CEOuCdLPLfvkJDIh5pVW7BP4CABfG9cf9-kNGqMkIiqSN7uo0LLZ8/s4192/DSC_7331.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2358" data-original-width="4192" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1OPjX7W0foB8zUx_cBPekMyjBNYicnk8RENuOknxzJ4LkomYdAjoPO_ykb6Aj07ChyphenhyphenEE3H5vp6Ju9M574yo4wPf2pWh1XRNqVfrRL6-UNM9rhF8OKVcM-tbjaARshHQVfG5360b1CEOuCdLPLfvkJDIh5pVW7BP4CABfG9cf9-kNGqMkIiqSN7uo0LLZ8/s320/DSC_7331.JPG" width="320" /></a><br /><br />Road conditions were reasonable but with plenty of construction sites to repair damage from cyclone Gabrielle one year on. My thermos fell off with one poorly designed Ortlieb holder on the very first bump, costing me a 20min climb+search, and one scratched thermos sans lid to carry for the next 10 days. My first day/night was just under 150km - so I didn't arrive until after midnight - some of the relatively high-speed descents were a bit nerve-wracking - passing under the highest rail bridge in the S. Hemisphere - which would look like this during the day - (now defunct - also due to Gabrielle - just after service was restored after prior storm damage). At one point there was a temporary wooden bailey bridge replacing the destroyed highway bridge complete with 2 (that's 2) generators powering 2 stadium lights aimed at a perhaps 30m long bridge, along a set of stop lights. Not sure why they need daylight level lighting for a temporary bridge - would think a little solar setup would suffice - or just run a cord to a town a few hundred m away (those generators must be running for months).<br /><br />Camp was at Lake Tutira -</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ0yInjUUD_ZmDIEtGfKLpAlQ6jhreX4gGdN-U_6YEgl6dJcLJ2kOZBTCjMQOFrpigzDNpOXS_8kk_ZWAQNDTiYMH8rF_qH0FRMqCXeGar7njX6BLpKbWEVbpN2NAaVI4UBbsn-Vij3rOLEWlFyoD3VAJ8_w19iRXtXAsM2CXC1zcBV7b351_AjI5LRhyf/s5504/DSC_7333.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ0yInjUUD_ZmDIEtGfKLpAlQ6jhreX4gGdN-U_6YEgl6dJcLJ2kOZBTCjMQOFrpigzDNpOXS_8kk_ZWAQNDTiYMH8rF_qH0FRMqCXeGar7njX6BLpKbWEVbpN2NAaVI4UBbsn-Vij3rOLEWlFyoD3VAJ8_w19iRXtXAsM2CXC1zcBV7b351_AjI5LRhyf/s320/DSC_7333.JPG" width="320" /></a>a lovely little lake/pit stop on the way to Napier that DOC (Dept of Conservation) is trying to rescucitate from eutrophication due to fertilizer runoff - things like oxygen bubblers (not unlike sewage plants - fortunately it's far from that bad, and seems to be getting better - but the problems have the same root). We've passed the lake many times on travels from Gisborne, camp is about a km up a gravel road and the next morning it seemed like there was some big waka (multi-person canoe) battle going on - must have been over 30 people in 3 boats, not quite clear on what was transpiring.<br /><br />Next morning, hit another extended single-lane restriction on a long uphill and gravel and a construction crew generously offered me a lift - happy to accept these days - one-lane, up-hill slogs with impatient log-truck drivers are no fun (and don't become more fun on narrow high-speed 2-lane roads either). Route was mostly small streets through Napier onto SH50 which is a beautiful scenic highway off the main traffic of SH2. Unfortunately, it was also hillier and more remote, only noticed 1 open pub in roughly 100km until it meets SH2 again (well, there was this weekend only place that looked interesting for future reference: http://www.godsownbrewery.co.nz/). Evening winds turned against me so had to settle for simple remote campsite at Norsewood instead of planned Dannevirke.<br /><br />Friday - trying to get to the conference by dinner time was going to be - optimistic. Did have a great big breakfast at a faux-US-Diner (Matamau Diner) outside Dannevirke - even had filter coffee instead of the fancy flat whites that are standard today. First big obstacle was the Tararua ranges - part of the backbone mountains running roughly diagonally across the north island - a continuation of the Southern Alps of the S Island. At Palmerston North (Palmy) the Manawatu River cuts a path connecting both sides of the ranges. Natural path for us civilized folk to follow - first a train line and later SH3. Except the shaky islands have laid waste to the best made plans. After too many repairs NZTA gave up around 2016 and decided to upgrade one of the 2 other crossings - the Saddle Road to the north. Still wonder if a modest tunnel wouldn't be possible - can't we just have something small and slow instead of massive, fast, and long - way up over the hills and down the other side - how many extra liters of diesel does that represent per trip. This was the state of affairs last Friday - Look at the massive terraced earthworks:</p><p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2z2hkVjz50zWTe8KzREHGbdCAIgSKrtyYfwzFTs4MosLNBgRZr40mhIWYMgTTp8ccHMqqkGQVlWbASwREg6UULraqM5MRInmEoXy2_OFmRlqIxhZyFd94NddtPU0Qy9INgFpR8nWvoj2YN0ar4HavM4pbc8YlEg0Q-ag4J12KlBEBhmeGYmzRwXoxXeUI/s1234/DSC_7341-crop.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="467" data-original-width="1234" height="121" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2z2hkVjz50zWTe8KzREHGbdCAIgSKrtyYfwzFTs4MosLNBgRZr40mhIWYMgTTp8ccHMqqkGQVlWbASwREg6UULraqM5MRInmEoXy2_OFmRlqIxhZyFd94NddtPU0Qy9INgFpR8nWvoj2YN0ar4HavM4pbc8YlEg0Q-ag4J12KlBEBhmeGYmzRwXoxXeUI/s320/DSC_7341-crop.jpg" width="320" /></a></p><p>It also meant the saddle road was closed pushing all traffic onto the smallest still-open Pahiatua Track, which I got to share with 18-wheelers. Amazing the big windmills just seemingly out-of-place, popping out amongst the traffic: <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXM6c4oBnQCPCU1Oa_cnB2G7sFUaPpOpr3B-c2vZziE2N7UZrRcP3kvL7YyE7bEa_z2XF7TMZmET7ITnYWixJEz7URIfZMkde1Sf3HkjIBebYTNV39Svqr9xuVRT6b3B7tS_aMLUd8DiNm95Kc9txNHkTTtZi5z8tDIu78JGIB8mSePl2SEK7pYzYDk8dc/s5504/DSC_7342.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXM6c4oBnQCPCU1Oa_cnB2G7sFUaPpOpr3B-c2vZziE2N7UZrRcP3kvL7YyE7bEa_z2XF7TMZmET7ITnYWixJEz7URIfZMkde1Sf3HkjIBebYTNV39Svqr9xuVRT6b3B7tS_aMLUd8DiNm95Kc9txNHkTTtZi5z8tDIu78JGIB8mSePl2SEK7pYzYDk8dc/s320/DSC_7342.JPG" width="320" /></a><br /><br />Definitely don't recommend the crossing under these conditions, no choice this time. A day or two further south sits the much more pleasant Rimutaka cycle trail crossing the same ranges - following an old incline railway, and including... a tunnel under the summit section, unlike the modern SH2 mostly 3-lane road that once again powers on through way up high and down again with no thought for burnt fuel and brakes. And now in the 2020's in a similar vein - Wellington's newest motorway: Transmission Gully. It's much the same, replacing a modest coastal route with a higher-traffic, faster and much hillier and bigger-in-all-respects fuel-consuming path.<br /><br />Anyway, my path was SH57 - also not recommended - no shoulder, hilly, and truck after truck (and headwinds), until finally to Levin and the main SH1 with even heavier traffic - but mostly well shouldered, growing into a smooth expressway with broad shoulders (bikes permitted, unlike the Transmission Gully section further south - but then there's still the old coastal route). Actually some of the smoothest travel of the trip down, and with the headwinds lifted the last 40km or so were a breeze.<br /><br />The conference was a pleasant introduction to Greens politics - most of the Green MPs were present. Quite a contrast to, say, CPAC also going on around the same time - a nice feature of moving to a small country. Picture a gathering of, say, 10% of House members - most of one minor party including party leaders, at a simple weekend retreat at what is usually a bible camp for kids, with bunk-beds accessible to all party members. Anyway, can't get into too much detail, but it had some lively discussions at times.</p>And finally - the trip <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1TgZOrrf8buaLO3GQr53ZwENEyiyn_bc&usp=sharing">back</a>: Waikanae Beach to Palmy (94.6km, 22.6kph avg, 57kph mx), to nowhere near Marton (68.4, 16av, 57), Nat'l Park (140, 16.3, 51.7), to Piropiro camp on the timber trail (112.5, 15.8, 67.8), to L. Whakamaru on the Waikato R (74.2, 12.4, 56.7), to nowhere near Ohope (137.5 cycling, 19.8, 66.1 - with ~30km assistance from Ana- thanks), and back to Gizzy (179.5, 19.8av, 71mx)<br /><p></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2AHuxBm-CO0arg5eMfoHAbNrS4i2gDbHEv-JxLr8XMpryW0Hg6_B8CkmBOa0Dol2LqITe7ap2BHvrHtFxMqx4EqCulDQizojaBXjOXi9vclY43B6NlODCQaaL80TdpUXYM7-9MsKtXSrNR0weWWl2_HpOogUPlIFP9dR6BaOzx7EQDizZ9aEkNbaTSa7/s1168/Return.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="894" data-original-width="1168" height="431" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2AHuxBm-CO0arg5eMfoHAbNrS4i2gDbHEv-JxLr8XMpryW0Hg6_B8CkmBOa0Dol2LqITe7ap2BHvrHtFxMqx4EqCulDQizojaBXjOXi9vclY43B6NlODCQaaL80TdpUXYM7-9MsKtXSrNR0weWWl2_HpOogUPlIFP9dR6BaOzx7EQDizZ9aEkNbaTSa7/w563-h431/Return.png" width="563" /></a><br /><br />really a first exploration of back-country remote roads and camping. The conference ended on Sunday and fellow Green Harry generously put me up for the night in Palmy - many thanks! So back-tracked mostly the same way (SH56 and smaller roads are much more pleasant, being Sunday vs Friday evening also helped) - this time with evening tailwinds. No such luck on Monday heading into the backcountry behind Marton - strong headwinds and a late start - but after Marton there was more protection after entering the canyon-scoured country south of the central plateau. Not even 70km for the day. Lots of wiggling paths and streams and side-streams. Made camp near a bridge at one such confluence - lovely evening cooking what passed for bolognese under an open sky and washing down in the stream:<br /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtX76Rr9POVaT53AQlvjaaN5ZGMzO1DsvJL_nrWtuPGUZRLC88WBQQUoEHZ2uh8dg2W2QQJIZHu0x5amUTgH-WpZhJWJv_Xpty1T1GNh6Zmd-hrQnQIJ6twSKncjPzmktGR68HYLYiaHAr8RdmZU_zA8rL_GKuB2gto6_3PNLPWfecOD10guPymCEOSXG-/s5504/DSC_7347.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5504" data-original-width="3096" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtX76Rr9POVaT53AQlvjaaN5ZGMzO1DsvJL_nrWtuPGUZRLC88WBQQUoEHZ2uh8dg2W2QQJIZHu0x5amUTgH-WpZhJWJv_Xpty1T1GNh6Zmd-hrQnQIJ6twSKncjPzmktGR68HYLYiaHAr8RdmZU_zA8rL_GKuB2gto6_3PNLPWfecOD10guPymCEOSXG-/s320/DSC_7347.JPG" width="180" /></a> </p><p>Next day phone coverage was gone for much of the day (word of advice - have maps ready and don't count on them "sticking" on your phone, routes can unhelpfully pop-up for a few seconds and suddenly disappear with much less helpful "no internet available" message - I find my 2007 Nokia with global offline maps often more useful than its modern replacement in remote situations). Screenshots come in handy. Here's one such a "tricky" junction - and another NZ quirk, debating if it's Whanganui or Wanganui (the same town):</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP-te_sEB3rd8uVs8jDcxRrIM19PTEbF1qzXxjXVsPHfKWbqLmn5IqEebUSNWAmQ9zPMETA1T49QIsa28NYDv8bk_0pNt9hccHZ_QXI3MOW6IO0JLXdssrd2VqhyphenhyphenvI5rJ1H9_BgeEJfssT8jdW5Nu48__Tvj302K7og_CkeUSgs3QQgCktWiqG32uTyPjY/s5504/DSC_7349.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP-te_sEB3rd8uVs8jDcxRrIM19PTEbF1qzXxjXVsPHfKWbqLmn5IqEebUSNWAmQ9zPMETA1T49QIsa28NYDv8bk_0pNt9hccHZ_QXI3MOW6IO0JLXdssrd2VqhyphenhyphenvI5rJ1H9_BgeEJfssT8jdW5Nu48__Tvj302K7og_CkeUSgs3QQgCktWiqG32uTyPjY/s320/DSC_7349.JPG" width="320" /></a> </p><p>Fortunately I guessed correctly and an hour later, data briefly returned so I could replot my path down some really remote roads toward Ohakune. This is another junction - I checked out the old bridge ruins from the 50s - complete with a wooden (!) deck</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDgSYsdi2keRZCOgotUxjo0dS_LN-A2HVwj8zPjJlOznGEIIIQCCaCrOFmD0a86BtzoPJyJEGKkmihNJHQPC9RMO4NXUP4u6pcdIaqwPtTFMpieZQUQM96EqibbHIBQlixR-X0na00fglsZfdra2nvQDKcf0CmPbKJwQXwW5a8oHtzK_ac8MZrtij0zeRQ/s5504/DSC_7350.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDgSYsdi2keRZCOgotUxjo0dS_LN-A2HVwj8zPjJlOznGEIIIQCCaCrOFmD0a86BtzoPJyJEGKkmihNJHQPC9RMO4NXUP4u6pcdIaqwPtTFMpieZQUQM96EqibbHIBQlixR-X0na00fglsZfdra2nvQDKcf0CmPbKJwQXwW5a8oHtzK_ac8MZrtij0zeRQ/s320/DSC_7350.JPG" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYvMqsFENmCNYX-Ahez2TqNdmmEPIz2KIpFaNgt1AmMMrhpjeO7bqiS8Vhub9JjMaz41R7ezE69lgAGbRMqW1O5U7tpsBMC3aJMik5CyJA9NkYrmXUhwl-V4XF4MTujAP3EKOgORKuRHXHgXKHbDGADRPmlSr2j2xVEbRIvLVMfqmzMKcGqwkkbEusWDFd/s5504/DSC_7356.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5504" data-original-width="3096" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYvMqsFENmCNYX-Ahez2TqNdmmEPIz2KIpFaNgt1AmMMrhpjeO7bqiS8Vhub9JjMaz41R7ezE69lgAGbRMqW1O5U7tpsBMC3aJMik5CyJA9NkYrmXUhwl-V4XF4MTujAP3EKOgORKuRHXHgXKHbDGADRPmlSr2j2xVEbRIvLVMfqmzMKcGqwkkbEusWDFd/s320/DSC_7356.JPG" width="180" /></a>- again, this used to be enough (my degrowth views are, not ironically, growing) - more simple wood and steel structures to follow - and contrast with the replacement status quo. Overall the road included about 40km of gravel, 2km of which was probably one of the hardest roads I've ever encountered. The only warning is a "no trailer's allowed" sign, preceding what must be a 15% gradient on loose gravel. I could barely push my bike up Burma Hill for perhaps 45min - feet keep slipping on the gravel - and my bike+pack is probably about 15kg lighter than in S. America (at a svelte 45kg). But the views are fantastic:</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEEpeRPJzkyCwnLgIFJ2efTAu9lYdZJyDGJWHZWW3j6JwrxIUlic7wGvYXI_XFyGneTy-g0ZaM1ctL5RzBGSb-1il-a66LpkMOW0u2JNmny3BoS4RxyBo0m9OXIFhflCrG5XW-zdCDAZvoHzc8TE0vZPcCR_YuCpyTHkd6eAgitadEseNjJ9W5tPoDtWRR/s5504/DSC_7368.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEEpeRPJzkyCwnLgIFJ2efTAu9lYdZJyDGJWHZWW3j6JwrxIUlic7wGvYXI_XFyGneTy-g0ZaM1ctL5RzBGSb-1il-a66LpkMOW0u2JNmny3BoS4RxyBo0m9OXIFhflCrG5XW-zdCDAZvoHzc8TE0vZPcCR_YuCpyTHkd6eAgitadEseNjJ9W5tPoDtWRR/s320/DSC_7368.JPG" width="320" /> can you find Mt Ruapehu in this pic?</a><br /></p><p>And once the canyons are surmounted life eases up again and eventually pavement returns along with beautiful views of Mt Ruapehu, the highest peak of the N Island.<br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJLGpmbyZ8xKMbXiFYvhnqNAkI_T05m3R-DTkgYKnHqqm7xB_si0YE97ePdtsqCXCYBdXnH9LOVZ8Nmf9FYFlqTITgNL5rfBOlboSw6qWdCqeytUWf7TkZ13hAwaB2OYmtIfs9N7xquCoDZplEW957JsnvGZkfiOZV6BVxWKWbogpD7c_xJ7D_gLPBrvB_/s5504/DSC_7371.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJLGpmbyZ8xKMbXiFYvhnqNAkI_T05m3R-DTkgYKnHqqm7xB_si0YE97ePdtsqCXCYBdXnH9LOVZ8Nmf9FYFlqTITgNL5rfBOlboSw6qWdCqeytUWf7TkZ13hAwaB2OYmtIfs9N7xquCoDZplEW957JsnvGZkfiOZV6BVxWKWbogpD7c_xJ7D_gLPBrvB_/s320/DSC_7371.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKKXq6wHTXvjavb9bLgq3RJ8gT8YFJir8CK57l2DdrqmV82t36anybYm4w4q3ZBzyiEL3KGQ1WeJqzzFCDHW4J751UskWbHCSy2WRmwQzFhRB6jt5a8x4pHtj4Bee3qe43xsRvVLajtB4Jmja1MOVAOlGSZeDLlg_1niW-GjJ9askyL_YqZHMTM_RSEAiZ/s5504/DSC_7378.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5504" data-original-width="3096" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKKXq6wHTXvjavb9bLgq3RJ8gT8YFJir8CK57l2DdrqmV82t36anybYm4w4q3ZBzyiEL3KGQ1WeJqzzFCDHW4J751UskWbHCSy2WRmwQzFhRB6jt5a8x4pHtj4Bee3qe43xsRvVLajtB4Jmja1MOVAOlGSZeDLlg_1niW-GjJ9askyL_YqZHMTM_RSEAiZ/s320/DSC_7378.JPG" width="180" />The obligatory stop at the world's best apres-ski-carrot-themed-playground</a> <br /></p><p>A long, 140km + over 2000m vertical day - finishing up at our former colleague - YHA National Park Village (still going!). </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiauhr2CqSV3g4lW30b0BDIdl-cSMQ8YcrfvhaKMR-A2PG-P18kK6tbp8tZnP70jz_o7ClMk3fGtAMcwmmRwlGDSQTSK66w16RUkbRuiQsDEGoK6rJXlSw4GOlHOfDmdBnXgKGtEIF6P89N9ekXs9snXDNLuyL-4EhV4cyGWw6VCcqJ1Ild0m4u1FqvdltU/s4192/DSC_7385.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2358" data-original-width="4192" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiauhr2CqSV3g4lW30b0BDIdl-cSMQ8YcrfvhaKMR-A2PG-P18kK6tbp8tZnP70jz_o7ClMk3fGtAMcwmmRwlGDSQTSK66w16RUkbRuiQsDEGoK6rJXlSw4GOlHOfDmdBnXgKGtEIF6P89N9ekXs9snXDNLuyL-4EhV4cyGWw6VCcqJ1Ild0m4u1FqvdltU/s320/DSC_7385.JPG" width="320" />The N Island massif (Mts Ruapehu, Ngarahoe and a bit of Tongariro) just across the hwy from the YHA.</a> <br /></p><p>Wednesday it's down off the central plateau roughly following the main train rail line including little NZ-"hacks" like this one:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUfIRCcqe_Z2rfd-UglDnzjRHlbhDnwfT3oT031Yh61e65EdkfKSkiKRmqA2CIgshkwwPESB5EfvopwP_2DdJF2P9WXJX0rxSC5KNsRBM4mGDg-xOu_pUtxi4DwKygqHq87hL9-kEURTSZbNqNxI1Mf_mRbUaWGUhpl5PaCREYQxrgYMjOioOhlG7qic3W/s13968/DSC_0043.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3520" data-original-width="13968" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUfIRCcqe_Z2rfd-UglDnzjRHlbhDnwfT3oT031Yh61e65EdkfKSkiKRmqA2CIgshkwwPESB5EfvopwP_2DdJF2P9WXJX0rxSC5KNsRBM4mGDg-xOu_pUtxi4DwKygqHq87hL9-kEURTSZbNqNxI1Mf_mRbUaWGUhpl5PaCREYQxrgYMjOioOhlG7qic3W/w590-h150/DSC_0043.JPG" width="590" /></a></div><p></p><p>So that would be a vintage 1-lane road bridge - paved left, gravel right - topped with a 1-track rail bridge right at the junction connecting the main trunk line to a <span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stratford%E2%80%93Okahukura_Line">trunk line</a></span> (note the link has photo of the same bridge) though crazy-tough land to Stratford and New Plymouth (roughly along the "forgotten world highway" - sadly now retired like many others). Not entirely unlike a few downtown Chicago metro ("el") bridges straddling major roads above the Chicago River - which in turn double as bascule draw-bridges(!). </p><p>From here it was on to the Timber Trail - one of a number of trails forming the "New Zealand Cycle Trail" network. In retrospect given the current increasing polarization everywhere - quite a remarkable cooperative project between the centre-right (and creeping further and further right...) National Party (in power at the time) and the opposition Greens around the 2008 financial crisis - a nice set of beautiful back-country bike trails. They've been quite popular - among cyclists (unfortunately still too small a part of the population). But check out these trails. Here are a few sample bridge crossings:</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgziN6cuz0SQmHN5NfghRCInEsJQg9oZyj8zI5o8DLERgBODTTIofui9iVxdeZglze7A-rz10cA7TErrq_f1XyOMzlzqSV926ZnIi4P2QGmZeWrqaZwJitIybvdFshiWIcHzrkra_pVlbE8ai41wWqlWQyUmFd9aMN6uywt9FMSmx0BHA5pM9Wcps1kJdXC/s5504/DSC_7404.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgziN6cuz0SQmHN5NfghRCInEsJQg9oZyj8zI5o8DLERgBODTTIofui9iVxdeZglze7A-rz10cA7TErrq_f1XyOMzlzqSV926ZnIi4P2QGmZeWrqaZwJitIybvdFshiWIcHzrkra_pVlbE8ai41wWqlWQyUmFd9aMN6uywt9FMSmx0BHA5pM9Wcps1kJdXC/w383-h215/DSC_7404.JPG" width="383" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSfKU5c6fg7nvOrsOwU_x4jz4BinnCOMyQj5D0HC7yrsWk73duxJ_gHhXNHVX6Dyp1lwjdq8W-okLL9w-fMDM4p38iRB4egDMsY14KqS9La88k5D5Wc5s30_D2fF62P6ebGVaKKlEvc5CTaEpSYHSIAekDRIDwHVLR33bkZ6ejh0ALnaNrGrSqacEFUsHL/s5504/DSC_7396.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSfKU5c6fg7nvOrsOwU_x4jz4BinnCOMyQj5D0HC7yrsWk73duxJ_gHhXNHVX6Dyp1lwjdq8W-okLL9w-fMDM4p38iRB4egDMsY14KqS9La88k5D5Wc5s30_D2fF62P6ebGVaKKlEvc5CTaEpSYHSIAekDRIDwHVLR33bkZ6ejh0ALnaNrGrSqacEFUsHL/w377-h213/DSC_7396.JPG" width="377" /></a></div> <p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxrg1Mam6uvcxQPpNfflYlUwwY8FVy1b-md9WYMNfwrJVfLsdwiri-ifuBkxyVVlow55j94XDMA_qmUbooKEg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />It follows an old timber extraction tramway mostly built in the first half of the 20th century - and logged till the magnificent old forests were mostly gone or too difficult to extract. These days the trail passes through some pasture followed by pine monoculture with natives being restored/recovering in some areas as well and progresses into remote old-growth (actually, I did it "backwards" vs the recommended direction). A total of 8 suspension bridges cross some of the most difficult canyons. As someone who's still a fan of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Personal_rapid_transit">PRT</a> - I could easily picture such structures supporting modern automated lightweight vehicles on lightweight guideways - this bridge's design limit is 1200kg. Imagine 150m span bridges in remote territory, structures (perhaps apart from anchors) weighing in the low-ton range - maybe 15mm cabling - and costing, in this case, well under NZ$500k in 2012 - a few specs:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDw5D0oEtYc0E2mwGCb3LcYCoyL2HCixE_h7_AkULPHEGf9ht2HQdxxD7YAvvRAcBNfW75aKVmaLG3PR_ozwSByMyLzKnMYz5K_yV92rY2qxRkQngcPPMAZeHOE0aDb7Mq2FyAGz6YlW4Ss6H5pFWMk1lH6E5CbcKB7re9chvfH_mmvddtdf6LXK97-whN/s5504/DSC_7411.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDw5D0oEtYc0E2mwGCb3LcYCoyL2HCixE_h7_AkULPHEGf9ht2HQdxxD7YAvvRAcBNfW75aKVmaLG3PR_ozwSByMyLzKnMYz5K_yV92rY2qxRkQngcPPMAZeHOE0aDb7Mq2FyAGz6YlW4Ss6H5pFWMk1lH6E5CbcKB7re9chvfH_mmvddtdf6LXK97-whN/w350-h197/DSC_7411.JPG" width="350" /></a></div><p><br /> I'd think even pushing peak one-at-a-time vehicle loads into the ~10t load range, using automation to ensure adequate vehicle separation, along with differing speed profiles based on vehicle mass, would still permit a fantastically cheap and low impact way to connect a country with reasonable speed automated transport... a green engineer can dream. Here's a contrasting image of a modern metro currently being built in Bangkok:</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpBPijDB1uOy1WYl-mVKlI0dNFpxyqH_dlNFQwv8WewjxL8lbGYdrtsWDMGKgS_51C9j3Vxv_8UyqGz0i_kmxN38pHAhuj31ozGkq70YJ5t42oSKguuvkyDyocQh5qtr2DQGLvlKXRgUQbtYVdJb4Jr9Rcma5rAAUVuPmArrAHpfuzCObWXUsMAQMQG4hW/s1000/ModernMetro.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpBPijDB1uOy1WYl-mVKlI0dNFpxyqH_dlNFQwv8WewjxL8lbGYdrtsWDMGKgS_51C9j3Vxv_8UyqGz0i_kmxN38pHAhuj31ozGkq70YJ5t42oSKguuvkyDyocQh5qtr2DQGLvlKXRgUQbtYVdJb4Jr9Rcma5rAAUVuPmArrAHpfuzCObWXUsMAQMQG4hW/s320/ModernMetro.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> - I'd guess a single support pillar weighs several times that entire bridge structure (and can probably survive a direct hit from a large vehicle at speed). This is generally presented as the "green" option (granted, as always - compared do what - say a multi-lane raised motorway that has to support bumper-to-bumper big-rigs).<br /><br />Wednesday night was as Piropiro campsite - an old logging village in what was remote back-country. There are quite a few glamping options and meals available, but quite a few of us were happy to camp under the heavens. But only one other bikepacker that I observed - Michi from Switzerland on a few week adventure Down Under (sadly a long way to come for just a few weeks), the rest were driving in - motorhomes and all, some happy to suggest next time I should look at the shuttle service...<br /><br />Thursday finishing up the trail - another 4 suspension bridges and a proper mountain climb up to 970m and finally gradual down-hills to the end-point and then more downhills to the Waikato river and a free campsite with hot(!) showers, but ironically with no drinking water (water is actually tankered in despite this magnificent river flowing past). Used my filter on the shower water to top up my reserves. The landscape reminds me of Alpine foothills - lots of flat valley floors and steep cliffs with (modern monoculture) pine trees clinging to them. This is now the Waikato River Trail - another national cycling trail which follows the river, a bit too closely at times - up every last outcropping a tiny steep hill with lots of blind corners. After awhile I decided to keep going on SH30. A few more pics:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhncM9E245yWLYb3iIL-V_F6iK4Trhpg7YYnLHcQXRHWdor5zd-9_yMGcsygrBvWY-RUvcGhWssuEqxN8N0wr5MHRRnNFK1iiIEhL-78feeSschf7-mZTlI0kIvuIeke8VwB8FGVXkXi3gj8J4vUyfeK9UQAsxRnR963ZFGVbmNa1P0nJn9KoJN8WuHwQja/s5504/DSC_7449.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhncM9E245yWLYb3iIL-V_F6iK4Trhpg7YYnLHcQXRHWdor5zd-9_yMGcsygrBvWY-RUvcGhWssuEqxN8N0wr5MHRRnNFK1iiIEhL-78feeSschf7-mZTlI0kIvuIeke8VwB8FGVXkXi3gj8J4vUyfeK9UQAsxRnR963ZFGVbmNa1P0nJn9KoJN8WuHwQja/s320/DSC_7449.JPG" width="320" />A taste of Illinois<br /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9WSSRRfrIp5PByI_d7deTrnCFMMSnVPhVOWI0Ofyod6Fk7S7-ED6Bq6BfF1DKipGiqpFWDY6Oxr1TXZJNwtMt1fMGVLwIHO1SUe_7KhYXcP7m8qMVC0Adug0HkXaOyWcgwu66_zOuX-gmyRdNwzLndL5MG-T_ZYYJxeBDtLPCftCJVrkThb6wpXq4D_Hv/s5504/DSC_7447.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9WSSRRfrIp5PByI_d7deTrnCFMMSnVPhVOWI0Ofyod6Fk7S7-ED6Bq6BfF1DKipGiqpFWDY6Oxr1TXZJNwtMt1fMGVLwIHO1SUe_7KhYXcP7m8qMVC0Adug0HkXaOyWcgwu66_zOuX-gmyRdNwzLndL5MG-T_ZYYJxeBDtLPCftCJVrkThb6wpXq4D_Hv/s320/DSC_7447.JPG" width="320" />Deforestation tools can be old and small</a> <br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-dDcvvSQsFjJz_E9b3fxxKJpr_Rj_vspnAOPU6scok9-2xDVQfxYa1C1aIfTMKQDK2vRzPGfB8Zo5fiNUjzXVcIF8D-ZMSK7lStffFJeL_QOmvdS0rbtodbPzhMQuBLdEJsxZPQsOs06xSGeHkXWMv6Li1JTbXIEuNtdVgg6KAntwqT9r8FJPM9PdCuO/s5504/DSC_7446.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-dDcvvSQsFjJz_E9b3fxxKJpr_Rj_vspnAOPU6scok9-2xDVQfxYa1C1aIfTMKQDK2vRzPGfB8Zo5fiNUjzXVcIF8D-ZMSK7lStffFJeL_QOmvdS0rbtodbPzhMQuBLdEJsxZPQsOs06xSGeHkXWMv6Li1JTbXIEuNtdVgg6KAntwqT9r8FJPM9PdCuO/s320/DSC_7446.JPG" width="320" />First world problems<br /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTmgbcZzfAtZt9zyF4f8S5_q0vkefufnZ8QM4oZrdKYjWhNTS3qHB_6_ZwADRIoAMNJY6lGiVz8qCMYgcE5A0oZuYvKCvQOBzVOBuFejBFp7vxU8DX-j4jvVKJzUz2hUl6xc6Mr1u1pI8Y7WvklysnhspTe9mupJXvl-N2qh-RTLvgI9B1IXGFl1bC2h8/s5504/DSC_7442.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTmgbcZzfAtZt9zyF4f8S5_q0vkefufnZ8QM4oZrdKYjWhNTS3qHB_6_ZwADRIoAMNJY6lGiVz8qCMYgcE5A0oZuYvKCvQOBzVOBuFejBFp7vxU8DX-j4jvVKJzUz2hUl6xc6Mr1u1pI8Y7WvklysnhspTe9mupJXvl-N2qh-RTLvgI9B1IXGFl1bC2h8/s320/DSC_7442.JPG" width="320" />A bit more primeval<br /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4XpwDxvpXmfko9MK0R7WW7Rt0A8NIKW9CmQrmg0cRuSGqeBTm-iFERnlvdweqClBM5q-pFWz29QsPebYhN5Fbpndi84in3GKwMzmGfyQ9gS4lBV2iAWgnBlg41pfuzQnljo7M5vQVwL37V_XfQI-FYlLzBr-s_Ion7BtyZ1xdUlGqZYQlrJswoeaBNtQs/s5504/DSC_7459.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4XpwDxvpXmfko9MK0R7WW7Rt0A8NIKW9CmQrmg0cRuSGqeBTm-iFERnlvdweqClBM5q-pFWz29QsPebYhN5Fbpndi84in3GKwMzmGfyQ9gS4lBV2iAWgnBlg41pfuzQnljo7M5vQVwL37V_XfQI-FYlLzBr-s_Ion7BtyZ1xdUlGqZYQlrJswoeaBNtQs/s320/DSC_7459.JPG" width="320" />Free hot shower on the Waikato<br /></a></div><p><br />Friday it was closing in on Gizzy - a couple brief visits with friends - Hernan in Rotorua and Ana near Whakatane (thanks for the lift!) - no bike trails but SH30 around Rotorua has lots of nice lakeshores and unfortunately what seemed to be a wide-bodied dune-buggy competition - lots of oversized trailers passing me. Final camp was behind the bend off the side of the road near Ohope watching the southern cross through the roof of the tent. </p><p> </p><p>And so just 1 day to go - home - the longest day of all at just under 180km from sea level up to about 800m and back down again and about 50km of gravel of the Motu trail. All in all a beautiful, challenging day. The final stretch was along lovely SH2, not the greatest for safety and a few construction sites, but I lucked out with strong tailwinds turning the final 70km into a great end-of-day ride with plenty of long downhills. And so it was over too soon again - 1250km and a conference in 10 days - but hopefully not the last little cycling adventure... still working on the e-bike/tandem...<br /><br />A few final pics at the end:</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEVfCwCTmGDprLeUBdaMCxg8CyaDczdnKAoOV0TZMmOBZH4317947fHG-2zek61CprbYKj2M2Fv1L4rZHtYeOzOe42H6x2QfoGBizmEHWjpkKpsWNG2YxfKvvcS8OyL820ZIIHdTUiMZQxJTt-wGf1ob9ooo_5T0uiKTKGzhLeG8WhnUyUE9WaZcBVSM0i/s5504/DSC_7470.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEVfCwCTmGDprLeUBdaMCxg8CyaDczdnKAoOV0TZMmOBZH4317947fHG-2zek61CprbYKj2M2Fv1L4rZHtYeOzOe42H6x2QfoGBizmEHWjpkKpsWNG2YxfKvvcS8OyL820ZIIHdTUiMZQxJTt-wGf1ob9ooo_5T0uiKTKGzhLeG8WhnUyUE9WaZcBVSM0i/s320/DSC_7470.JPG" width="320" />This can be camp - </a>a bend in the road along the marshes near Ohope opening into a clearing:<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0IiXQHaOFh5WsT_7kqxKJQG-r9WRFDKMpz1KWb_p0vleZUzgXwa_iO4RM4vdECGApF8QSmm2JZ0ljdbmV7tT1QS9F0FlAkTr6KvgmOWxlRFL_wiQ7wKdDBWIQ2xSxJbHa1eYukGHvIVFqe1MYZlv-aPL6K_jQnuBYjC9KgFm1NXjxKQwIcCL8F12w8ekC/s5504/DSC_7469.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0IiXQHaOFh5WsT_7kqxKJQG-r9WRFDKMpz1KWb_p0vleZUzgXwa_iO4RM4vdECGApF8QSmm2JZ0ljdbmV7tT1QS9F0FlAkTr6KvgmOWxlRFL_wiQ7wKdDBWIQ2xSxJbHa1eYukGHvIVFqe1MYZlv-aPL6K_jQnuBYjC9KgFm1NXjxKQwIcCL8F12w8ekC/s320/DSC_7469.JPG" width="320" />Last night's camp<br /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9rNfQM5j8sJOiLSV9zJnEkxWD8jyYcegGEop1FQHnyoJkwdS5Pd4b1isfGz4H5mPAfki7rI1AxDeTyyG0ewb3D5Kx9qs2T2XRB0zWy4cWuRDr_r8D4h6vS0djellx1Mo7LQfqO27mWt4d1pngKDXAUTBzu6D4yOvW10aTfmrgkbdstSYAaZ0Xd1RLUzj/s5504/DSC_7476.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="5504" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9rNfQM5j8sJOiLSV9zJnEkxWD8jyYcegGEop1FQHnyoJkwdS5Pd4b1isfGz4H5mPAfki7rI1AxDeTyyG0ewb3D5Kx9qs2T2XRB0zWy4cWuRDr_r8D4h6vS0djellx1Mo7LQfqO27mWt4d1pngKDXAUTBzu6D4yOvW10aTfmrgkbdstSYAaZ0Xd1RLUzj/s320/DSC_7476.JPG" width="320" />The motu trail</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTquM7g5fV4NxP92W6yTDJqaxqMeIZbFVepTx84ZT0pbCzGSkFIA-39OB3VnCdGDgyBrORl7IjsZhIlhVZgCBgoxSkd8-DepVp9bnVgQEqoEXrgzJU3WI9OMlUeQQqLmZHLViDwm93qtCHUbcadiGEncu86JwcSGdafhtoxcTHOGmW9XpP20VeKj418EtO/s11784/MotuTopPanorama.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1806" data-original-width="11784" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTquM7g5fV4NxP92W6yTDJqaxqMeIZbFVepTx84ZT0pbCzGSkFIA-39OB3VnCdGDgyBrORl7IjsZhIlhVZgCBgoxSkd8-DepVp9bnVgQEqoEXrgzJU3WI9OMlUeQQqLmZHLViDwm93qtCHUbcadiGEncu86JwcSGdafhtoxcTHOGmW9XpP20VeKj418EtO/w653-h100/MotuTopPanorama.jpg" width="653" />and in panorama<br /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSL4TMPpYebFdkPN8ervrVRm3Hd5spkU7q_5NUfvSHfTeVcwcwc2i3-DslA_2uw7FJkg0urE_lNxBn9fdnPlShmhua-jCdMWgIdU6-2VFyywdrUyKIT1Ux1tOlp65CJ4NrrzGXFrMHWDRHY3QqzzAilAtQKIsbacPT0-kfurq3m3i29J0rYoKX3K_4qlX/s2325/MotuRailBridge2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1454" data-original-width="2325" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSL4TMPpYebFdkPN8ervrVRm3Hd5spkU7q_5NUfvSHfTeVcwcwc2i3-DslA_2uw7FJkg0urE_lNxBn9fdnPlShmhua-jCdMWgIdU6-2VFyywdrUyKIT1Ux1tOlp65CJ4NrrzGXFrMHWDRHY3QqzzAilAtQKIsbacPT0-kfurq3m3i29J0rYoKX3K_4qlX/s320/MotuRailBridge2.jpg" width="320" />And finally more old tech</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">In this case - an abandoned rail bridge - amazing what a wooden truss structure with a few tension rods and old I-Beams can support - in this case I'd guess in the 20ton range - a steam engine and perhaps a tender and first car. No idea of speed limits - but still, a century on it still stands - like so many old truss metros and bridges around the world. This was meant to connect Gisborne to Auckland but only made it as far as outside of Motu - a region that had a much larger population before I was born than now - and passenger rail service into Gizzy about 80km away on SH2 today.<br /></div><br /><br /><br /></div><br /><p></p><p></p><p></p>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-35376647410158291482008-06-21T14:38:00.000-07:002024-03-24T20:32:12.362-07:00Week 21 - Potosi to Sucre<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWFt_VhSgkzutTxTZMk51OLe7E2oNyodZDvudQa3agbTveCgD85zPX1Y0VP7e8EAoRncq4HuuPDBEqrp3gvOgVhJ4nc297ln5i_gJpGrpemKybg19G4gR5MKukd4A8G9EfArfmzjDd-Gz9/s1600-h/142-1+-+Market+Church.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216730857589260290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWFt_VhSgkzutTxTZMk51OLe7E2oNyodZDvudQa3agbTveCgD85zPX1Y0VP7e8EAoRncq4HuuPDBEqrp3gvOgVhJ4nc297ln5i_gJpGrpemKybg19G4gR5MKukd4A8G9EfArfmzjDd-Gz9/s400/142-1+-+Market+Church.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> OK, uploaded the rest of week 21's stills - this is the Potosi market +church on day 142<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir7LTl7DuyQw6_Duvo_goexYLcaCY4n5lv687cwRuvJQZO9Q9RRsMMqQqxZzy-rimjh0BaLDHaHX2bhhmNqdHHks-dy9qfJn6qpczMXhLEW2my9CIKVf1J4hVsZUtngNLASnI5UMK9v_vU/s1600-h/144-1+-+Dave+and+the+Blockade.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216729884163405698" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir7LTl7DuyQw6_Duvo_goexYLcaCY4n5lv687cwRuvJQZO9Q9RRsMMqQqxZzy-rimjh0BaLDHaHX2bhhmNqdHHks-dy9qfJn6qpczMXhLEW2my9CIKVf1J4hVsZUtngNLASnI5UMK9v_vU/s400/144-1+-+Dave+and+the+Blockade.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Dave in the middle of a road block on 144<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPoxGl1Mjsbqei2AnYo_zRoXcYlyTQTH8k89J8Ckz0ZI1xIJBpHbu54C1JOXXipyKzUAs28gGxHb_X1jHly6xipa-Sk-U_WTOk5BvNzlYRcwql-_XP-GsPsqS5ANPSZ2XS7GWg_3tnhulV/s1600-h/144-2+-+The+Descent.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216729886381552674" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPoxGl1Mjsbqei2AnYo_zRoXcYlyTQTH8k89J8Ckz0ZI1xIJBpHbu54C1JOXXipyKzUAs28gGxHb_X1jHly6xipa-Sk-U_WTOk5BvNzlYRcwql-_XP-GsPsqS5ANPSZ2XS7GWg_3tnhulV/s400/144-2+-+The+Descent.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> The amazing descent on 144<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_cBF_k8-kyqPvjGb3cLRkN7ulo2sXeA-SLWzYhg63D4RwtcRKV5irkhz0tF_G-OMjG4j1Wh9oh4KVGKrUXMwvghj_-181_EpZEOwuH8R0fVNxKtACRYMIoPqDRMKuWO-HipUhjwze_4sp/s1600-h/146-1+-+Enjoying+Fruit+Salad+-+1.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216729888108245442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_cBF_k8-kyqPvjGb3cLRkN7ulo2sXeA-SLWzYhg63D4RwtcRKV5irkhz0tF_G-OMjG4j1Wh9oh4KVGKrUXMwvghj_-181_EpZEOwuH8R0fVNxKtACRYMIoPqDRMKuWO-HipUhjwze_4sp/s400/146-1+-+Enjoying+Fruit+Salad+-+1.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> J-W and Gu enjoying fruit salad in Sucre on 146<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuceZAWQjnnV0aYyM1ymUlIBXsq9JisvpZqZqBcdwKbPmh8M9TCnf_4qoaLCkbyddkD6OOjTfoozzCcvlWIlODK9jpl5eakVde9-KWgwFzYy5ZEF4hXScQN5Rr-5_ZdslkZGnAuiuIdeGR/s1600-h/146-2+-+Enjoying+Fruit+Salad+-+2.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216729890548553490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuceZAWQjnnV0aYyM1ymUlIBXsq9JisvpZqZqBcdwKbPmh8M9TCnf_4qoaLCkbyddkD6OOjTfoozzCcvlWIlODK9jpl5eakVde9-KWgwFzYy5ZEF4hXScQN5Rr-5_ZdslkZGnAuiuIdeGR/s400/146-2+-+Enjoying+Fruit+Salad+-+2.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> This is an awesome fruit salad<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilrvDaBiUk0JZRoQ9atpvTd97MSbfAAI-YlzJVAh2EQyBOyLvEOpmTYAItRfL9PwZqHewvr3W0jr6Z_N8bbuX-Bq5NGtQ2XUzN9T8744CEDvPfIgzbLI-q5YvB_ceOGJhPtatvdDiUYq0M/s1600-h/146-3+-+Sucre+Market.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216729890225269074" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilrvDaBiUk0JZRoQ9atpvTd97MSbfAAI-YlzJVAh2EQyBOyLvEOpmTYAItRfL9PwZqHewvr3W0jr6Z_N8bbuX-Bq5NGtQ2XUzN9T8744CEDvPfIgzbLI-q5YvB_ceOGJhPtatvdDiUYq0M/s400/146-3+-+Sucre+Market.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> The Sucre market - 146<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8br4gAjeRZhmG_gCSNDY2iVVzKOgpSMAQZJHzM9Y2BfJ-3EpkQidTk2jrukx1IRw2K5yPQ7Db85oe6d3SilqUHqW2ciTTbm2mlz0aE99Yz__1Cb6EhNuAgK3KIkEJnbCTr-wK-MTUqUcL/s1600-h/146-4+-+Declaration+of+Alto+Peru+Independence.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216728663720181778" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8br4gAjeRZhmG_gCSNDY2iVVzKOgpSMAQZJHzM9Y2BfJ-3EpkQidTk2jrukx1IRw2K5yPQ7Db85oe6d3SilqUHqW2ciTTbm2mlz0aE99Yz__1Cb6EhNuAgK3KIkEJnbCTr-wK-MTUqUcL/s400/146-4+-+Declaration+of+Alto+Peru+Independence.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> The Declaration of Independence of Alto - High - Peru at the liberation museum on 146<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiazb1zWEcI9N5Q9KaH1farGzmDnimMZMlP1oWsLZTj9Oz7HRhEwM3FlAxArwprT1VSYLJqqXBgTsCOBCLaPeZwiLP28RDZdDZl4AWQU_nYmiiBTWXNdYTPBE7FScO6vbrFMZTXU3XNV8yv/s1600-h/146-5+-+Early+Freedom+Fighter.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216728667892506098" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiazb1zWEcI9N5Q9KaH1farGzmDnimMZMlP1oWsLZTj9Oz7HRhEwM3FlAxArwprT1VSYLJqqXBgTsCOBCLaPeZwiLP28RDZdDZl4AWQU_nYmiiBTWXNdYTPBE7FScO6vbrFMZTXU3XNV8yv/s400/146-5+-+Early+Freedom+Fighter.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Freedom Fighter (or terrorist?) - 146<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6zWQ18g76zZN3bkqoELRibtNuVQ0FF_eHAk0SHHUoNR1xPngu3kCP_zCo43OEHMZNJD7K1E3ZelYYywgvBccfQAnfXF-pLllYeOjlFK0OZK9oDRA3QstVXJjO235GtdaTdMowfvTX_1ky/s1600-h/146-6+-+Mask+Museum.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216728667102852162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6zWQ18g76zZN3bkqoELRibtNuVQ0FF_eHAk0SHHUoNR1xPngu3kCP_zCo43OEHMZNJD7K1E3ZelYYywgvBccfQAnfXF-pLllYeOjlFK0OZK9oDRA3QstVXJjO235GtdaTdMowfvTX_1ky/s400/146-6+-+Mask+Museum.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> The amazing mask museum - 146<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4eCaCgCbId3vbNcOOKWb4_ha_gPH38Xyl1yUf19SXDzSnRSBT5is8-7OW1iaDEC7WiDPXktTb8OJZiXZ7shbgYKEbgHhhqIDYB8p4vcGLHgleJ4SkwQEf2EzGr2rIK3ETOoY5LyCHvJdQ/s1600-h/146-7+-+Sucre+at+Night.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216728667888358770" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4eCaCgCbId3vbNcOOKWb4_ha_gPH38Xyl1yUf19SXDzSnRSBT5is8-7OW1iaDEC7WiDPXktTb8OJZiXZ7shbgYKEbgHhhqIDYB8p4vcGLHgleJ4SkwQEf2EzGr2rIK3ETOoY5LyCHvJdQ/s400/146-7+-+Sucre+at+Night.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Sucre at night<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKtrjGQJGMVBf_MBKhn1jYINkqI9h2MC1DyngVFc1nuMjLx82V7Ga71v_NhK71KYcyyWBn2sjJlBrDy_YJvzTdnAgNQM9cpq3dVYUTDp8lEz7nH_0MOEx2st1RwxnDTaw2g1SZn_awziT/s1600-h/146-8+-+Marchin+Band.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216728673508240994" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKtrjGQJGMVBf_MBKhn1jYINkqI9h2MC1DyngVFc1nuMjLx82V7Ga71v_NhK71KYcyyWBn2sjJlBrDy_YJvzTdnAgNQM9cpq3dVYUTDp8lEz7nH_0MOEx2st1RwxnDTaw2g1SZn_awziT/s400/146-8+-+Marchin+Band.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Sucre marching band<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JAaPS24ywuXvnyYYo4jL0vU2nioxQXTR2CI27PkDRCQ7zxVqqvPBktMrWSeQVglNogyl2LHpY_8LN6E-vjM8qzNlimwmee10pVUIl6im6Q-A7OE2jIKvOsN86TsMHMBxT9bzOElE-q_0/s1600-h/146-9+-+Sucre+at+Night+2.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216727838469560418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JAaPS24ywuXvnyYYo4jL0vU2nioxQXTR2CI27PkDRCQ7zxVqqvPBktMrWSeQVglNogyl2LHpY_8LN6E-vjM8qzNlimwmee10pVUIl6im6Q-A7OE2jIKvOsN86TsMHMBxT9bzOElE-q_0/s400/146-9+-+Sucre+at+Night+2.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> At night - 2<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRIRjVFv4bGhHVAvgO4rCzGn59KoiiFKncodjuTfsegtZ_sN05_XL3X3tt2oh5geLgS-Nd3KcA-JZ0MbE7n9l9hsdC_0rHNLR0btB00eUQxPrLsCnOfAiCnaOWClUj2Crf9ilQqwY7SXt/s1600-h/147-1+-+New+Cycling+Group.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216727841359391442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRIRjVFv4bGhHVAvgO4rCzGn59KoiiFKncodjuTfsegtZ_sN05_XL3X3tt2oh5geLgS-Nd3KcA-JZ0MbE7n9l9hsdC_0rHNLR0btB00eUQxPrLsCnOfAiCnaOWClUj2Crf9ilQqwY7SXt/s400/147-1+-+New+Cycling+Group.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> The whole new group of cyclists on 147 - Yoann, Jan-Willem, Fanny, and Gudrun L to R - but we won't cycle together until Cochabamba.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Pbakc4UMMyLfYUaVoItWl2L22nNH9WX-xQxyfsQL1v2xqy2oCUbUdOuwt_U69xd7MWBjNIN2X9TeFiAb3eqlAdvu594ElGma6im0k7TU8oivF4QbwXIe9NbFwiKJwa3Tdf_DbIRob4RU/s1600-h/147-2+-+Sucre+Eiffel.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216727844079394898" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Pbakc4UMMyLfYUaVoItWl2L22nNH9WX-xQxyfsQL1v2xqy2oCUbUdOuwt_U69xd7MWBjNIN2X9TeFiAb3eqlAdvu594ElGma6im0k7TU8oivF4QbwXIe9NbFwiKJwa3Tdf_DbIRob4RU/s400/147-2+-+Sucre+Eiffel.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Sucre's Eiffel<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgimo1tAceXbPup-8rgv7c8CDkUwcloZT1jo9BKrjmg5YhorKC-eqXrDVcbnoVpHgb6E5RsWz_yqYL_ErKzgrvXVisGZej85hzTdjPbg0_9KV2bDa_-a_6K27f_14s3f6VPhv9CdzXFTXpt/s1600-h/147-3+-+Stuff+growing+on+power+lines.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216727852498444738" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgimo1tAceXbPup-8rgv7c8CDkUwcloZT1jo9BKrjmg5YhorKC-eqXrDVcbnoVpHgb6E5RsWz_yqYL_ErKzgrvXVisGZej85hzTdjPbg0_9KV2bDa_-a_6K27f_14s3f6VPhv9CdzXFTXpt/s400/147-3+-+Stuff+growing+on+power+lines.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Stuff that grows on power lines here<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifdUZCQfGjkWX_3xnQyExifjmopxE0WN3FPgvLFSCQau1r246v_LL7MPd9pcli8vJM8CAxDhoqry6XeQaKZhve0P1nxS8-E1TYUKo_ItCdWEOv6iraCeSx7mxM6gWSwLUYyXBLlcHkVzl2/s1600-h/147-4+-+Sucre+at+Sunset.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216727854637062978" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifdUZCQfGjkWX_3xnQyExifjmopxE0WN3FPgvLFSCQau1r246v_LL7MPd9pcli8vJM8CAxDhoqry6XeQaKZhve0P1nxS8-E1TYUKo_ItCdWEOv6iraCeSx7mxM6gWSwLUYyXBLlcHkVzl2/s400/147-4+-+Sucre+at+Sunset.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Sucre at sunset from on top - 147<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWC0s7fVl9drcWg8T4TWMN-8wekv8DS1UWEXg8fc8_E_AYt1e44hWASG3qfzEqmwvPw86Gp452CyjuBbqsbxjF4FRUlDlK_URk0QnlAvVu-M2CJki7twq0mSpTf0jGpFNfyR6Un9sfJH0S/s1600-h/141-1+-+All+Suited+Up.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214458550759219218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWC0s7fVl9drcWg8T4TWMN-8wekv8DS1UWEXg8fc8_E_AYt1e44hWASG3qfzEqmwvPw86Gp452CyjuBbqsbxjF4FRUlDlK_URk0QnlAvVu-M2CJki7twq0mSpTf0jGpFNfyR6Un9sfJH0S/s400/141-1+-+All+Suited+Up.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> OK, here are some of the pics of week 21 - a lot is missing and there appear to be a lot of blank lines again - anyway here are the 4 miners - Gudrun, Jan Willem, Dave, and myself - day 141<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio5ebPzE12tY4pcyff86xWeb1VPc3krxq5ZF-W1BmzRR3RoRKRBMkHhOE2RDnMy6bLjyDSjYM0n-OHwtR0TJfSMp5LOUmQTOcy_b7-LJN9v4wJoWXcYx7AofACuClGFmXgOCAMA-aFqkMr/s1600-h/141-2+-+Danger+Explosive.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214458390299410002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio5ebPzE12tY4pcyff86xWeb1VPc3krxq5ZF-W1BmzRR3RoRKRBMkHhOE2RDnMy6bLjyDSjYM0n-OHwtR0TJfSMp5LOUmQTOcy_b7-LJN9v4wJoWXcYx7AofACuClGFmXgOCAMA-aFqkMr/s400/141-2+-+Danger+Explosive.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Hmmm - normal stuff for sale on a Potosi Street<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKa6CK2-Ha3wm2sy_H4qB-6fIiEkUoGISYb-DIQhWsjoC0Zc2nx309Df805SHSof1AQdMJCeqljU9t8lbQHR7yl0WBWTJ2yV4ZSVtp_A7GBokP2Qekj8PSIa8kzyKNspzGc6awX4qBX9w/s1600-h/141-3+-+Daves+Proud.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214458389342386018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKa6CK2-Ha3wm2sy_H4qB-6fIiEkUoGISYb-DIQhWsjoC0Zc2nx309Df805SHSof1AQdMJCeqljU9t8lbQHR7yl0WBWTJ2yV4ZSVtp_A7GBokP2Qekj8PSIa8kzyKNspzGc6awX4qBX9w/s400/141-3+-+Daves+Proud.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Dave is happy<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixDHufQBEBngUddCXzT-A7XGpnr93Hg3t7hw6Yvv7E-uQdnNG3jTlNfovlOuez1uGxJ-5w0UQYDggubFm9q_fUUKh3jTilPd_o9Aj3eMdcTukbLhpRwcyip_WDJdTFuo71s2M4gwuvYyTH/s1600-h/141-4+-+Primitive+Ore+Concentrating.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214458395007657810" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixDHufQBEBngUddCXzT-A7XGpnr93Hg3t7hw6Yvv7E-uQdnNG3jTlNfovlOuez1uGxJ-5w0UQYDggubFm9q_fUUKh3jTilPd_o9Aj3eMdcTukbLhpRwcyip_WDJdTFuo71s2M4gwuvYyTH/s400/141-4+-+Primitive+Ore+Concentrating.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Separating Ore the primitive way<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYpOuIX5vrWU8CfOIIvDJzFFA7CmPNbxElNuMt18W8VpzpQkCsy97BKN4I-NWUX2O06AUVfE1CR4q8XPDYX_IeXDYSp4IVeefiBMKNms_WTUWOWvwTlgVXGWD8yZFuQqVXIH7sP8QaVCkD/s1600-h/141-5+-+Heading+In.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214458396318373122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYpOuIX5vrWU8CfOIIvDJzFFA7CmPNbxElNuMt18W8VpzpQkCsy97BKN4I-NWUX2O06AUVfE1CR4q8XPDYX_IeXDYSp4IVeefiBMKNms_WTUWOWvwTlgVXGWD8yZFuQqVXIH7sP8QaVCkD/s400/141-5+-+Heading+In.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> The mine entrance<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8r86Ii3ZXn7Ew6DD2Ra7cbwPGbbBW8mAshxiARxcalPW5e1sESOHjxdS655sF1kTd0J4UlKrhsThQdPj_jFbyyWcylrZxalJ2F0yOv0cZNA_4EElDhcHMyp5XN28AiPfFbHLiXf0HpMnp/s1600-h/141-6+-+The+Entrance.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214458396386454658" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8r86Ii3ZXn7Ew6DD2Ra7cbwPGbbBW8mAshxiARxcalPW5e1sESOHjxdS655sF1kTd0J4UlKrhsThQdPj_jFbyyWcylrZxalJ2F0yOv0cZNA_4EElDhcHMyp5XN28AiPfFbHLiXf0HpMnp/s400/141-6+-+The+Entrance.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Ditto<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqaWA3B9OVFNCCnDizhC_4KR_sAzBSSMl6Q4LrE4j58sx9lLpGH8wEqi30DA0YiHJdL3a76uc5R_avElpklRTUFyu6o7dv23WqnpXw6D7QLXM2aRHUC5tiqhSnDves38Q8fw5UussrNzAw/s1600-h/141-7+-+El+Tio.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214457860832636274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqaWA3B9OVFNCCnDizhC_4KR_sAzBSSMl6Q4LrE4j58sx9lLpGH8wEqi30DA0YiHJdL3a76uc5R_avElpklRTUFyu6o7dv23WqnpXw6D7QLXM2aRHUC5tiqhSnDves38Q8fw5UussrNzAw/s400/141-7+-+El+Tio.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> El Tio<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWyrrOXvrWfjLLP_VLthPvOLrNYNAq5yl2DfzqhJp3GRfE-QQbVLEblBXVn06IDIFtRdrYRSaBBoBx2VJhz4ADXji6dPi0Qk1TDFi43jkMFa0mGrbvX4Pn7GZotX1E_fg_bhuQQB_kuSUB/s1600-h/141-8+-+Moving+Ore.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214457867871186146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWyrrOXvrWfjLLP_VLthPvOLrNYNAq5yl2DfzqhJp3GRfE-QQbVLEblBXVn06IDIFtRdrYRSaBBoBx2VJhz4ADXji6dPi0Qk1TDFi43jkMFa0mGrbvX4Pn7GZotX1E_fg_bhuQQB_kuSUB/s400/141-8+-+Moving+Ore.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Moving a cart in the mine<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEcHOmFkYw8FMpVPTPIbAK_MKnKQHBomQkS4K6uiR44AqoxAIscuItw_ZpGYaS610xB3KGY4AW4dxJRlmbPGjqAEys1mlqf3f7icxN9nMsSyvdI_9P7RtoCYe9LiYAvfTWgKXhMjwqWqhb/s1600-h/141-9+-+Dumping+Ore.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214457866844661698" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEcHOmFkYw8FMpVPTPIbAK_MKnKQHBomQkS4K6uiR44AqoxAIscuItw_ZpGYaS610xB3KGY4AW4dxJRlmbPGjqAEys1mlqf3f7icxN9nMsSyvdI_9P7RtoCYe9LiYAvfTWgKXhMjwqWqhb/s400/141-9+-+Dumping+Ore.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Dumping ore<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDR4tbvkMnT47MtTUv5ZB7cliTC9xPpJ5ljYVWGbWBDgwezV7HoaKOxX_I1EC39lqIpZewBbZtiWY9czbIL6GMc0FplC82PNrmoe8UJ4ngegrnyxrTwSQMuaagFWG99KBtNZ3U1-cS1O1l/s1600-h/141-10+-+Heading+Out.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214457867732795810" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDR4tbvkMnT47MtTUv5ZB7cliTC9xPpJ5ljYVWGbWBDgwezV7HoaKOxX_I1EC39lqIpZewBbZtiWY9czbIL6GMc0FplC82PNrmoe8UJ4ngegrnyxrTwSQMuaagFWG99KBtNZ3U1-cS1O1l/s400/141-10+-+Heading+Out.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Exiting<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimrmwbzoaGi_4oBp2IJcDnDkCYqDjDFOaEmsB9CIzAxpJZwC3KKknNoHyc5dHib6au2A53H2Aa9dmW7Gp8x1ZkZv85B_EOzrCH5L5VzEsb0jyCGNOLmcKbrozcePb3n99M_fDcoF275D0k/s1600-h/141-11+-+Yes+a+lit+fuse.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214457871585971922" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimrmwbzoaGi_4oBp2IJcDnDkCYqDjDFOaEmsB9CIzAxpJZwC3KKknNoHyc5dHib6au2A53H2Aa9dmW7Gp8x1ZkZv85B_EOzrCH5L5VzEsb0jyCGNOLmcKbrozcePb3n99M_fDcoF275D0k/s400/141-11+-+Yes+a+lit+fuse.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Yes - a lit fuse<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJUDqclDVJQUnx7i-H_ZJEjiIshtL9rgJohsbBIUYS1gSKi8rxnItQuZ8WR2zjKt50PwE8-fv3McxZCNPnWqRiv-jRQJ8pAHGJ2xm5VvFGCcIg2EBZac80F7UCm5bd6mebAysCuqhwYB4/s1600-h/141-12+-+Blowing+Stuff+Up.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214456922835329042" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJUDqclDVJQUnx7i-H_ZJEjiIshtL9rgJohsbBIUYS1gSKi8rxnItQuZ8WR2zjKt50PwE8-fv3McxZCNPnWqRiv-jRQJ8pAHGJ2xm5VvFGCcIg2EBZac80F7UCm5bd6mebAysCuqhwYB4/s400/141-12+-+Blowing+Stuff+Up.JPG" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> A few moments later<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpQgTj0aWX2tSFuNGZRSMqxC09bVg6wkjOb14QJUQHW_H2tQaoKbnwCvKqSo46B4hiOOsOhf090Kca0DpErclbZMZ1QqB9yeW_Pxtdf6lcWbCRRKKBAFK5LuXzV07_t9Qpi5knpJSBtBIf/s1600-h/145+-+1+-+Todays+road+shot.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214456928242170082" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpQgTj0aWX2tSFuNGZRSMqxC09bVg6wkjOb14QJUQHW_H2tQaoKbnwCvKqSo46B4hiOOsOhf090Kca0DpErclbZMZ1QqB9yeW_Pxtdf6lcWbCRRKKBAFK5LuXzV07_t9Qpi5knpJSBtBIf/s400/145+-+1+-+Todays+road+shot.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Nice road shot on day 145<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbWtafnE_bwZoYrPLXpXj_sCAPC6uhJIVFAN0WUltuherYbtOmQ97o-07EaGTZpGGvx3oMEE8utrj5VHbMflMx6yVbAjcfgOLpznCnQh8LTcQ76h-lnQPMBgggG2lYGY5ufZofm4E0zdqH/s1600-h/145+-+2+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+1.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214456924774048386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbWtafnE_bwZoYrPLXpXj_sCAPC6uhJIVFAN0WUltuherYbtOmQ97o-07EaGTZpGGvx3oMEE8utrj5VHbMflMx6yVbAjcfgOLpznCnQh8LTcQ76h-lnQPMBgggG2lYGY5ufZofm4E0zdqH/s400/145+-+2+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+1.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> The Bridge<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGjj6DF5SnWc9207dxjRFG6HSTb4rMXf-S7LcxZk_TPW_JvbNuDjjCHkougy5_FcshY6IOId3BHqL3Fp4HJGHEfynPy6okZvdkSBaXGp8VLfu5zVzNhS0ARGvKQqYYOyxnlYD-8ZRppj1D/s1600-h/145+-+3+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+2+-+the+plank.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214456926625280466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGjj6DF5SnWc9207dxjRFG6HSTb4rMXf-S7LcxZk_TPW_JvbNuDjjCHkougy5_FcshY6IOId3BHqL3Fp4HJGHEfynPy6okZvdkSBaXGp8VLfu5zVzNhS0ARGvKQqYYOyxnlYD-8ZRppj1D/s400/145+-+3+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+2+-+the+plank.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Bridge from the plank<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrSHMAROLvnFIs40ytlkBaoLUsmqmUEt3-XFeWurEPzvHX8bI4AgAL-iva3Y7j9uMG9O664hyphenhyphenSufZEd9ian0aT7W7IZIZldHZ9kDjXeJAgQO70_hwZXM6zk8UKLmXkIZgIRxVg02tM_3LT/s1600-h/145+-+4+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+3.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214456924653725090" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrSHMAROLvnFIs40ytlkBaoLUsmqmUEt3-XFeWurEPzvHX8bI4AgAL-iva3Y7j9uMG9O664hyphenhyphenSufZEd9ian0aT7W7IZIZldHZ9kDjXeJAgQO70_hwZXM6zk8UKLmXkIZgIRxVg02tM_3LT/s400/145+-+4+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+3.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Another Bridge shot<br /><br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEfhsRx8sQMsTW32G1ateaw919HeVQMfq6b7CqVbGgiDA-Q85uxU5pRKl9rwMFuZw-sYBtvhyphenhyphenjD5_FHuFkZPmLgEQ6Zpb78wEy63Y47KYGkP0v66i2JMYkypA_MoqH84rTbcKN9uE0wXIz/s1600-h/145+-+5+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+4.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214454785384009474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEfhsRx8sQMsTW32G1ateaw919HeVQMfq6b7CqVbGgiDA-Q85uxU5pRKl9rwMFuZw-sYBtvhyphenhyphenjD5_FHuFkZPmLgEQ6Zpb78wEy63Y47KYGkP0v66i2JMYkypA_MoqH84rTbcKN9uE0wXIz/s400/145+-+5+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+4.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Another Bridge shot<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgxO1sqcCw5ML4sIbkQfsk9UvWi4tWcaITiP3ArTw0OnasSZEXgApwj8tGP6Bltyr28ifHbQEHPzHfe1A496IQU09Xs9GF6wSVGZxFYVl1Qm5r4jdOUaLUrxxz-OurGwZGhlk0OTAI8kA/s1600-h/145+-+6+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+5.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214454788628483634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgxO1sqcCw5ML4sIbkQfsk9UvWi4tWcaITiP3ArTw0OnasSZEXgApwj8tGP6Bltyr28ifHbQEHPzHfe1A496IQU09Xs9GF6wSVGZxFYVl1Qm5r4jdOUaLUrxxz-OurGwZGhlk0OTAI8kA/s400/145+-+6+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+5.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Ditto<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv_VhXAoBf39MoY2L2De6Gz9YNdkITcr9QWrCEWBLRIbxiWnzOcHWBCnjezeukJMNXfdBYfjEi8jS9RPENNvUozWEpJ0nzHg3XGXgQ5t0RxwDlEBtBA7oyjUPWLT54CflC7Z2rE_3wfTkW/s1600-h/145+-+7+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+6+-+Puente+Sucre.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214454789713443730" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv_VhXAoBf39MoY2L2De6Gz9YNdkITcr9QWrCEWBLRIbxiWnzOcHWBCnjezeukJMNXfdBYfjEi8jS9RPENNvUozWEpJ0nzHg3XGXgQ5t0RxwDlEBtBA7oyjUPWLT54CflC7Z2rE_3wfTkW/s400/145+-+7+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+6+-+Puente+Sucre.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Ditto<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNuNAHvJsZRQPg1u-1h0ItKrrUFfkEu3YhdVAa3zdkv3V60YyTZniv6f9j29uJE-EkagriKiGfQUQgR1EzqBS3eKnFnLDRIM6htDngL_2Bz86gFnXMqIUi9jHpWn8eCVj_Du1-sOtxexw6/s1600-h/145+-+8+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+7+-+Wirewrap.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214454786626549570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNuNAHvJsZRQPg1u-1h0ItKrrUFfkEu3YhdVAa3zdkv3V60YyTZniv6f9j29uJE-EkagriKiGfQUQgR1EzqBS3eKnFnLDRIM6htDngL_2Bz86gFnXMqIUi9jHpWn8eCVj_Du1-sOtxexw6/s400/145+-+8+-+The+Beautiful+Bridge+7+-+Wirewrap.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> I just love the wire wrapping<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw0o_Z6KtZWdot6BGAkoeR6LmFX-kIa-Ovn1aLiF5JNS8eD-9jYC-i_Z0U21DIKlaG7ZAN6TMoOesKWkUe-K4Ay6Dh0b9w1Qax0R_JLNKrwtZlU_H-0pjuDg2GHRFSmMrYs52D0p93uFnd/s1600-h/145+-+9+-+Abandoned+Mansion+1.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214454792136133874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw0o_Z6KtZWdot6BGAkoeR6LmFX-kIa-Ovn1aLiF5JNS8eD-9jYC-i_Z0U21DIKlaG7ZAN6TMoOesKWkUe-K4Ay6Dh0b9w1Qax0R_JLNKrwtZlU_H-0pjuDg2GHRFSmMrYs52D0p93uFnd/s400/145+-+9+-+Abandoned+Mansion+1.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> A ruined mansion on the way to Sucre<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrwKbZQXODZxCfxhEDvyvnIlfrYE8JWyV3E1NQdmS9Hi1JDt9mq6Gwjf0xoDYd0NK21cuu1y-Bm3bUixjsusDlPs7UUv2yzcLg9Xqc1onr-BVGXBjRZ_B_aPOF66CsOh4gZijZwQT5Cxzr/s1600-h/145+-+10+-+Abandoned+Golf+Club.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214453580657282162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrwKbZQXODZxCfxhEDvyvnIlfrYE8JWyV3E1NQdmS9Hi1JDt9mq6Gwjf0xoDYd0NK21cuu1y-Bm3bUixjsusDlPs7UUv2yzcLg9Xqc1onr-BVGXBjRZ_B_aPOF66CsOh4gZijZwQT5Cxzr/s400/145+-+10+-+Abandoned+Golf+Club.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> A golf club that's seen better days<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt-RQ-LNZ7eI6YM4VXh6_pDh5sP6Nks9FC6JgbOWBMsJ4b15EvT_nOCeKblWnTTZet5YEdzsbo1rVLfqnmhzAzwBVKpAOpGGf4VxQuVRYEsLdDkqrH1cAW9c3tqms-vvZFD0GE5YMVPLb5/s1600-h/145+-+11+-+Sucre+Countryside.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214453580683417954" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt-RQ-LNZ7eI6YM4VXh6_pDh5sP6Nks9FC6JgbOWBMsJ4b15EvT_nOCeKblWnTTZet5YEdzsbo1rVLfqnmhzAzwBVKpAOpGGf4VxQuVRYEsLdDkqrH1cAW9c3tqms-vvZFD0GE5YMVPLb5/s400/145+-+11+-+Sucre+Countryside.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Countryside near Sucre - 145<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVyz3Gn5KJUouSxC1UyvgvP0avwBiweSL9yNe1schtJWDe_dCLUXYgvNlY0NMJOpU6wlf4q3I7zQ2oW45B07GqAvURqwy_VqKu5YjgP7aCGSbRebpxqjoMSH0R0XwSDaNPfw1c_tu8gatC/s1600-h/145+-+12+-+Sucre+Blockade.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214453579056922994" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVyz3Gn5KJUouSxC1UyvgvP0avwBiweSL9yNe1schtJWDe_dCLUXYgvNlY0NMJOpU6wlf4q3I7zQ2oW45B07GqAvURqwy_VqKu5YjgP7aCGSbRebpxqjoMSH0R0XwSDaNPfw1c_tu8gatC/s400/145+-+12+-+Sucre+Blockade.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> The Blockade<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnyaKG7rXdFaMN0-1ixLjQhzHmMZI0_OCbvx0Z3GizEEKjDrW2ImYVEsyfhlCmhtI36z4x5UobfrVMNIi7MGSQR4ftYeZKzYqMaxr77uB-edE_PRQRCznoSVWRVQ10XBzoY5M9astJ0ePJ/s1600-h/145+-+13+-+Sucre+Plaza.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214453584408144914" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnyaKG7rXdFaMN0-1ixLjQhzHmMZI0_OCbvx0Z3GizEEKjDrW2ImYVEsyfhlCmhtI36z4x5UobfrVMNIi7MGSQR4ftYeZKzYqMaxr77uB-edE_PRQRCznoSVWRVQ10XBzoY5M9astJ0ePJ/s400/145+-+13+-+Sucre+Plaza.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Sucre Plaza<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRYKf93aFoOoaVajzP0GbdWcitgyQCnDY6Xl-B9_DzHbyQDsOlHft7y-qMm6psA2Mh7Xb3pvtqr8y4YyrwieYK8gVWUFXt1xILIliDQTwFCYBG9zuWbs0fYghbuRTLw1d7SQ8lKVUZtjkp/s1600-h/145+-+14+-+Sucre+Marching+Band.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214453590155563906" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRYKf93aFoOoaVajzP0GbdWcitgyQCnDY6Xl-B9_DzHbyQDsOlHft7y-qMm6psA2Mh7Xb3pvtqr8y4YyrwieYK8gVWUFXt1xILIliDQTwFCYBG9zuWbs0fYghbuRTLw1d7SQ8lKVUZtjkp/s400/145+-+14+-+Sucre+Marching+Band.jpg" style="cursor: hand;" /></a> Marching Band<br /><br /><div><div>Week 21<br />Day 141 - the Mines</div><br /><div>Well, I'm actually complete caught up again, writing this from the rooftop of the hostel here with amazing views of town. We just got back from our mine tour - definitely worth doing. OK, got interrupted there so again, this is now one day later at the hostel, but I got close.</div><div><br />It starts out with an early, generous breakfast here at the hostel (even serve eggs). </div><br /><div>Unfortunately, coordination isn't all that great so we're wolfing down our food as the tour group is loading us up. From here we head to the agency's changing room where we don mining garb. They talk about the life of the miners - definitely not an easy existance - for around a ton of ore they collect around $100. But that's gross. 18% off the top to the cooperative/government. Then there's the rest. At the miner's market there are little mom & pop operations everywhere providing services such as recharging headlamps (find it hard to believe the miners can't afford a charger, but for around $0.30 you can drop off your lamp and collect it again charged), all sorts of mining gear, and, of course, explosives. Yep, here, in broad daylight, you can pretty much walk down the street and pick up a stick of TNT, a detonator, and a bag of ammonium nitrate (another potent explosive - generally mixed with diesel as we unfortunately learned in Oklahoma City) in one shop (about 18Bs / $2.75 a hit) while next door you can purchase coca w/catalyst (either Sodium Bicarbonate or, I understand, some kind of compressed ash) to keep the miners happy.</div><div> </div><div>Tourists are expected to purchase some of each as gifts to the miners so we leave the market with the obligatory offerings, plus a few extra sticks for detonating our own little part of the mountain afterwards. All in all we have about 30 sticks of dynamite on our bus as we head for the mine.</div><div><br />Actually, next stop would be the processing facility. As I mentioned yesterday (last week), Bolivia has no smelter, so we're told, all that happens here is the really rough stuff - miners drop off crushing the ore, mixing it with various toxins to create a foam which adheres to the minerals - these then float and are collected in a concentrate of mostly lead and tin and some silver which is generally the main interest here.</div><div><br />I can guess what happens to all the non-valuable stuff - the ride into town was along a garbage strewn foul creek - so you probably don't want to drink anything downstream from here (which is a long ways as we're at 4000m). Interesting how this deregulation dream results in brutal working conditions and environmental destruction. All for a little money - much of the profit goes elsewhere - primarly by the trainload of concentrate to Chile.</div><div> </div><div>The mines are called cooperatives - although a guild is probably a better description - boys around 13 start working alongside their fathers, brothers, and uncles all working the same veins and more or less hold the "claim" although I don't think there are any formal claims. 15,000 miners in total (the guide tells us there are about 40 mine fatalities per year, although lung disease after "retirement" is the main killer). These groups, often relations, work within cooperatives and share amongst themselves although I guess there's enough room for everyone and people pretty much leave others claims alone.</div><div><br />It is a brutal place - the entrance dates back to the colonial period and is covered in llama blood - a sacrifice to Tio - the Spanish devil of the mine. Apparently we missed the ritual which was last Saturday - somewhat gruesome as some miners will cover their faces in blood as well. All we got was a dark red/brown entry portal. From there, duck, the rest of the tour will be for the little people. I'm not all that big, but bigger than the average local so I will be banging my head quite a few times before this is over. Lots of stuff hanging down from the ceiling - mostly wooden chutes for ore. And then there are tubes and tubes and wires - hard to get a handle on what's what - the guides just inform us to not touch anything.</div><div><br />First stop is the "museum" - with a sculpture of Tio and some various bits of info on mining in Bolivia. Afterwards, it's deeper into the mine - probably less than a km, but starting with an altitude around 4300m, only natural ventilation, and lots of dust, it's a pretty hard place to breath - so 1km of crouching, crawling, and scrambling down questionable ladders is enough.<br />We're introduced to one of the oldest miners at over 50 who's here with his sons today. Later we walk down another passageway to a locked door where we yell to another old-timer followed by a loud blast. That would be a stick of TNT. Afterwards the air reeks of fireworks.<br />We are shown the blast site - down another ladder - the miner needs to place the charge and scramble up a rickety ladder to safety in about a minute - the fuse length. I can see how things may occasionally go wrong here.</div><div><br />We deliver our gifts and head back out to daylight. Outside it's time for the final show of the day - we get to set off our own explosives. I didn't buy any and although Dave did, he had to surrender his to the guide so we get to watch how the stick is molded (into a conventient plastic bag), the detonator is placed, and the fuse is lit. Yep, lit right there. Then it's time for some really quick pictures and finally the guide is off (hope he never forgets one of them), to place the explosive a safe distance away and continue running himself, and finally the big boom and all is well.</div><div><br />I won't say it's enjoyable, but visiting the mines is definitely something you should try when here. Afterwards we don't do too much - a lazy afternoon - check out the local market. Neat little place - dozens and dozens of stalls selling packaged goods, fresh food, and meat. Dinner is pizza with J-W and G as well as our new French cycling friends - we'll be heading to Sucre together on Monday. They've been on the road for 10 months now - most of it in Africa. Should be an interesting week.</div><div><br />Day 142 -Not too much to report on today -spent the day in and around Potosi, getting the bikes ready, a bit more exploration at the market, working on the blog...</div><div><br />And getting sick.</div><div><br />Day 143 -</div><br /><div>Yeah, probably the fastest onset of food poisoning I've had to date. Still felt OK at dinner yesterday, but the gut was churning. 4 or 5 times during the night I make an emergency run to the toilet and need to make the critical decision of which bodily orifice to mate with the porcelain throne. A few times I need to switch mid-stream and by morning I'm pretty much drained - just a mixture of dry-heaves and foul fumes.</div><div><br />Still don't know the cause. So today is pretty much spent sleeping, rehydrating, experimenting with which simple carbohydrates are acceptable to my GI-tract, and a bit of work on the laptop and TV.</div><div><br />144 - 89.4km, 19.5av, 66.9mx, 648m, 4:35 to 2705m, 20201km, (130.5km alt) 19.4935S, 65.2138W</div><br /><div>Amazing how time flies. It's been almost a week since I was last making entries in my tent. Soon I'll be back in Norte America, but there's still a few more weeks down here. Hopefully we'll get into at least part of Peru. We shall see.</div><div><br />Tonight is much different than the last few weeks of camping - we're about 1100m lower than the lowest recent site at "only" 2700m (just under 9000ft). And so life is warmer (sleeping without the fly for a change), greener, moister, easier to breathe, and noisier - lots of insects chirping around the tent tonight, but still a glorious sky and no human lights around, save for headlight I'm using to enter these words.</div><div><br />Woke up this morning still feeling pretty lousy and had another bathroom run. At least the vomiting has been over for 24h now. A marked improvement from yesterday. Wasn't all that hungry but still managed to down the Koala's decent breakfast offering and a mate de coca - too bad it's illegal outside of the region - makes quite a nice tea and seems to calm an upset stomach a bit. It's pretty much a cure-all around here.</div><div><br />Halfway through breakfast we're informed that nobody's leaving today - all the buses have been canceled due to the roadblocks around town - apparently the miners are demonstrating. We go to the hostel staff and, indeed, they confirm this - but not to worry, they're not "molesting" bicyclists - only car drivers.</div><div> </div><div>I generally hate waiting around to get better, so despite being sub-100% and the roadblock, Dave and I decide to set out again. First a quick dash to an ATM which included passing a group of protesters with some fireworks (at least I hope that's all they were - never know what to expect with this group).</div><div><br />From the hostel, it's a fairly quick route to the road to Sucre. No signs of course, but locals help point us in the right direction and before long, the city is spread out beneath us. And then we see the jumble of trucks blocking the road. Here we go.</div><div><br />The trucks aren't much of an obstacle to a bicycle and at first nobody seems to be around, but we approach the final junction at this end of town and soon there are more parked trucks and a few protestors. A friendly lot, mostly just sitting on the guard rail and having lunch. I say "Hola" while Dave decides to have a longer conversation.</div><div><br />And then the roadblock is behind us - I guess we're the only hostel guests to actually cover some distance towards Sucre today.</div><div><br />And we do cover some ground. Right after town the road has a leisurely 2-3% descent - just great cycling on a sunny day. There's a bit of wind, but in general things go quite well.<br />Of course no descent is forever and soon the road is more a set of large rolling hills - despite losing about 1300m today, we still climb almost 650. </div><div> </div><div>The scenery is noticable different as we continue NE. The landscape is greener - some of the streams actually have water in them, and there's a lot more agriculture - actual cultivation as well as sheep and goat grazing. And the mountains aren't as high anymore - no more snow in sight.</div><br /><div>Just before camp we hit our biggest descent of the day - around 600m of glorious, winding downhill - I hit 67 while Dave hits 74. But it's over too fast and we're climbing again. We manage a few more km and decide some of the large cuts near the road would make a nice, sheltered campsite so that's where tonight finds us - about 64km from Sucre and 90 from Potosi.</div><br /><div>Day 145 - Didn't manage to keep on top of my entries so this one is a few weeks late (currently in LaPaz in week 23).</div><div><br />More beautiful road - today pretty much continues along the same lines as yesterady - except we start out at the bottom and will have to climb to reach Sucre. But it's only a fairly short distance. Scenery is very similar - still quite arid but much greener than the Altiplano - and quite a few wide gravel stream beds with a trickling stream meandering down the middle.</div><br />And then there it is - a very unexpected bridge - connecting the departments containing Potosi and Sucre. An amazing work of engineering - I would describe it as a wire-wrap bridge for any older electronics fans out there. I'm guessing this suspension bridge is at least 100 years old, and to make things more interesting, one side is anchored directly into a hillside, while the other side is anchored in the tower itself - no heavy cables running to a ground anchor.<br /><div><br />Perhaps the most amazing thing about it is that it was just renovated this year and is in near-perfect shape. Even though it's not really in use anymore - the modern road bridge is perhaps 200m away.</div><div><br />But there it stands - feel free to scramble down the hillside to reach one tower and climb around on it - there are ladders leading to the top of the tower and quite a nice view as well. I'll post plenty of pics and hopefully the video I took as well.</div><div><br />Of course, this means we're at bottom and it's time to climb again. Much of the rest of the day is spent gradually approaching Sucre. The road climbs at a reasonable rate and the ride is quite scenic - more and more agriculture and something I'd even call a river parallels the road as you approach Sucre from below.</div><br /><div>The road is dotted with all these amazing buildings - the Sucre Golf Club, all sorts of big colonial style mansions and estates and almost all of them are in various stages of decay - missing or damaged roofs, broken windows, etc. - like a long parade of Bleak Houses.</div><div><br />And then you reach Sucre - not much at first, you need to climb 150m or so, but suddenly all the amazing colonial architecture lines the roads of what was the most important city for this part of S. America about 400years ago. But more on that tomorrow. We meet up with J-W and G and the "French Team" in the center of town and get our bearings.</div><div><br />Day 146 - Sucre - Bolivian national museum, market, fruit salads</div><div> </div><div>Sucre - originally La Plata meaning Silver, combine that with words like Argentina - whose capital city has a river named La Plata flowing through it - which is apparently accessible from Sucre, and places like Cerro Rico and you get an idea of what was on the Spaniard's minds when this area was colonized. A beautiful city - old Spanish capital of what would later become Chile, Argentina, and Bolivia, and later the birthplace of Bolivian independence. Lots of colonial architecture around the town center, and lots of poor adobe construction on the periphery.</div><br />We roll into town and stay at the Hotel Bolivia - not a bad place although there's only 1 functioning hot shower which is a bit challenging with around 35 rooms. Breakfast is sparse so you'll want to head over a couple blocks to the central market - a densely packed place where you can buy mostly food and household items from a few dozen vendors, then head over to the somewhat famous "fruit salad court" - a dozen or so vendors all peddling amazing fruit salads and milkshakes - the largest thing on the menu is still only 7Bs (about $0.95), so you can definitely splurge.<br /><div><br />We arrive for the human rights film festival, as well as university commencement - but in the end I don't see any movies (everything from "Sicko" to movies about indigenous Guatemalan health care). On the other hand, the univeristy commencement is hard to avoid - there are marching bands everywhere - on the main streets into the main square there seems to be a band interfering with traffic every few minutes. Party atmosphere.</div><div> </div><div>We do manage to go the main museum in town about Bolivian history. And we're treated to an energetic, and highly opinionated, tour guide. He has quite a mix of views: Bolivar, the country's namesake, never actually fought for Bolivian independence - he just showed up after the fighting was over to help work out the details. More of late - Bolivia seems to be close to civil war with the poorer north, LaPaz, and parts of the Altiplano and more generally the poorer rural folk behind Evo while the richer south especially Santa Cruz trying to become more autonomous and ideally restoring Sucre as capital. For many, particularly richer and better educated folks, there's not much love lost on the populist "El Indio" - Bolivia's first indigenous leader.</div><br />But besides the fiesty tour guide, the museum also has a collection of paintings and important documents of Bolivia's history, and also the chamber that hosts the Bolivian parliament once a year when it meets here.<br /><div><br />And then there's the mask museum - which we just sorta stumble into - quite ornate constructions used in various regional celebrations - it's free and definitely worth a stroll through.</div><div><br />And of course, there's the Joy Ride Cafe - which our Dutch friends are keen on - the owners are also Dutch, although Evo ate here and they're proud to declare that he declared it's not just for Gringos. Still need to look-up the exact root of that word. Plus they have WiFi, decent food and beer, and sometimes free popcorn.</div><div><br />Day 147 - </div><div>We're supposed to leave here today, but somehow the last few attempts to leave towns have been thwarted by disease and today's no exception - except it's Dave's turn. Just a cold this time, but we decide to wait another day and have a few walks around town - there's the supreme court and nearby park with a local Eiffel tower, and heading up a street the other way provides nice views of town. But mostly it's just doing errands - rebooking flights, a bit of bike maintenance, etc. And another trip to the Joy Ride till 2am which has me questioning Dave's illness a bit. But tomorrow - next week - we're definitely leaving.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-7319982198075454952024-02-25T19:28:00.000-08:002024-02-25T19:28:16.105-08:00The End-End to End Ends, for now... only 15.5 years later. Amazing what's floating around in my drafts folder... Galapagos! and more!<p>Hi internet universe -</p><p>Just a brief intro from 2024 - decided to resurrect this perhaps somewhat ill-named blog after a near-16-year hiatus. Mostly a place to post a few updates from a more recent trip here around my new home of New Zealand - and found a few drafts I just never posted... I guess the time has come. I've been wanting to return to this blog over and over again over the past years - polish some of the edges and provide a bit more data like all the routes I sampled on my now-ancient, then amazing Nokia N95 - how time flies. Since 2008 there's been a new job with travel, several new homes (as in locations, haven't ever lived in a new house as an adult), married life - love you Muk!, a new start again in a new country here in New Zealand, the adventure of running a youth hostel/backpackers with Muk (well - mostly Muk actually) - including through a pandemic, and more recently trying again to bring said old building back to life without re-enacting "The Money Pit". I guess that's the past 1.5 decades in a few words. A bit more in the next post about my most recent cycling trip.</p><p>Back to where I left off in August/September 2008 - and the Galapagos. This time no cycling, although there was also more of that at the time - a few more brief trips around N Wisconsin and UP-Michigan and Minnesota and Iowa between jobs with a first 2-week ride with Muk, and since then a few longer adventures with Muk during our gradual move to NZ via Thailand in 2012 that never made it into blog form... life's too short. More days in the saddle and the sights and sounds and experiences - where the details are now largely blurred - but when lived they're always new and exciting and yet somehow they're always the same - part of this long thread of life. The permanent, daily question of existence: "Where to now?" followed by absorbing all the bits that life throws at you from the damp morning dew to wondering when this hill will end to what died here recently and is now being recycled by this amazing universe... The details are forever changing but somehow it's always the same day from when I first started touring with my dad as a pre-teen in the 80's - and now looking back from an age past my dad's back then - well, life is just a beautiful flow (most of the time). <br /><br />Now back to 2008...<br /><br />Well, well, been over a month since I last worked on this. Currently in a tent on another trip - Isle Royale, first time that I've shared a tent in a long, long time.<br /><br />Wow, somehow I'm home again and not. Made it back to the States at the start of August but still have no real place to call home. Decided it might be time to start looking for work again.<br /><br />Anyway, I was last on Galapagos... on a first class boat rounding a few of the islands. The place is well, well worth the visit. Flights here are a bit confusing as there are actually 2 airports with the same 3-letter code, but the tour operators know how things work so you're pretty likely to end up at the correct one.<br /><br /><br />Day 1 (202) starts at the military base/airport on Baltra followed by a short ferry to Santa Cruz - the only island with real roads. And animals are pretty much everywhere to greet us.<br /><br />Pelican<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRl-xsMYXcTrwnGVgbahrIPlt7hhTt31Pf3ed0g2g0My1KF4uB0uQtNnDYubMyryWfSx6n-hZ52pX0Epkvxg1gk9pZCFbUPq00HeNETu9jtDwG384mdu_Gwal1m07WszuVy7dmpLzrkyhJ/s1600-h/202-2+-+Pelican+Greeter.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265267183150666994" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRl-xsMYXcTrwnGVgbahrIPlt7hhTt31Pf3ed0g2g0My1KF4uB0uQtNnDYubMyryWfSx6n-hZ52pX0Epkvxg1gk9pZCFbUPq00HeNETu9jtDwG384mdu_Gwal1m07WszuVy7dmpLzrkyhJ/s400/202-2+-+Pelican+Greeter.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Sealion on buoy<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiUAPbV4dztZ8n1TuObCptyCR3XU4T1Yra_DrzyY-JI4CEt4x796dy1mPTd5klx7QGLUKJpgyIPBfBSJA6yf5ewUHe2W6COA-wTedQ27ZNA648dRSX-13GoPpChkJnha6_XlivRuul-bxN/s1600-h/202-1+-+Lazy+Sealion.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265267181579363026" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiUAPbV4dztZ8n1TuObCptyCR3XU4T1Yra_DrzyY-JI4CEt4x796dy1mPTd5klx7QGLUKJpgyIPBfBSJA6yf5ewUHe2W6COA-wTedQ27ZNA648dRSX-13GoPpChkJnha6_XlivRuul-bxN/s400/202-1+-+Lazy+Sealion.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />The first impression is a bit surreal - a lot of volcanic rock and almost bleak landscape.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVIWcXHCs8m1RaII3X29qF6TNHJ6Tao7g3FErNe3ekF34b4UldmNg3pHy1PfH2K482bPFtNa0szPWQGqIqjLC8SsVshSUwNV1R0LRcFFnCx9vPvu82MTL1RaljRmfMwOPh5sz97Z_TC7qv/s1600-h/202-3+-+First+View.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265267185501416050" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVIWcXHCs8m1RaII3X29qF6TNHJ6Tao7g3FErNe3ekF34b4UldmNg3pHy1PfH2K482bPFtNa0szPWQGqIqjLC8SsVshSUwNV1R0LRcFFnCx9vPvu82MTL1RaljRmfMwOPh5sz97Z_TC7qv/s400/202-3+-+First+View.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a> The top of the island collects clouds and gets a fair amount of precipitation and hence some green, but lower it's pretty dry (later on are some cactii pictures). Along the way we stop at a standard tour itinerary lunch stop for a brief hike through a ranch just crawling with giant turtles - actually tortoises.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGkyjwX9wFSCuEvnBPRWd141QPD-X0cjskzGxIvxK30VWLU0cwv3-zz92wZjw_i-Qr_HbRsRFnpo3EBOQVGdIiURNsu0TeifQRTtVgg1UOawX1j1tJO2MjPm9vrnn5WvLI67BcBHflkTl/s1600-h/202-5+-+Big+Turtle.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265263997811450690" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGkyjwX9wFSCuEvnBPRWd141QPD-X0cjskzGxIvxK30VWLU0cwv3-zz92wZjw_i-Qr_HbRsRFnpo3EBOQVGdIiURNsu0TeifQRTtVgg1UOawX1j1tJO2MjPm9vrnn5WvLI67BcBHflkTl/s400/202-5+-+Big+Turtle.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />And also crawling with fire ants which I discover when I put my foot down over their mound entrance taking a picture of a turtle. The ants are one of the many exotics - species purposely or accidentally introduced by homo sapiens. They make taking pictures in sandals quite interesting. The tortoises are just plain huge.<br /><br /><br />Not a famous Galapagos finch - but a yellow warbler<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindjodXJJzAPq57JyA8hwsJ71tJxhdqTYWzg5QMYJq0v1sHJNy4XauOnJcIVfKU9JmWOJOL1JnhdV1rtjUi44MMI-XRmmfkcBy_ZutL40b_V4Gh4HgN1aIRZqMFbiJUOQTuSvu6W8bOYbc/s1600-h/202-4+-+Yellow+Warbler.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265263990254185522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindjodXJJzAPq57JyA8hwsJ71tJxhdqTYWzg5QMYJq0v1sHJNy4XauOnJcIVfKU9JmWOJOL1JnhdV1rtjUi44MMI-XRmmfkcBy_ZutL40b_V4Gh4HgN1aIRZqMFbiJUOQTuSvu6W8bOYbc/s400/202-4+-+Yellow+Warbler.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />From the ranch we head into town - Puerto Ayora - to the Charles Darwin Research Station/museum. A few interesting exhibits but the main attraction is the various animal pens where different reptiles are raised in captivity prior to release. They've been quite successful at saving some of the more endangered species although one specimen - George - may well be the last of his species. Quite old at well over a century and uninterested in any of the females placed in his pen of the closest related lines.<br /><br /><br />Poor old George - end of the line<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIqzomkt0xQaYg_zxrD1yE-nCNCECBciYh7KZLRs2t-2SVax1VvVvY7ZL3tiCbNFXBMy9WU7SG3mCIIJfeli75mxkWCXiIBNPGtnLSPw_wI5g3hA62KcnpKeRvlB7HQFgv_KVGGJWu1fFs/s1600-h/202-7+-+George+-+End+of+a+Line.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265264002328710514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIqzomkt0xQaYg_zxrD1yE-nCNCECBciYh7KZLRs2t-2SVax1VvVvY7ZL3tiCbNFXBMy9WU7SG3mCIIJfeli75mxkWCXiIBNPGtnLSPw_wI5g3hA62KcnpKeRvlB7HQFgv_KVGGJWu1fFs/s400/202-7+-+George+-+End+of+a+Line.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Iguana at the breeding project - Charles Darwin<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2w0R1EU6NNim2fckrBgH48sfoZ4_K6m0inXXheDf3zsJWPgDvfHdVxmWf_wmTkh8uNKyW64dekpKH4ymG0NvcDCqMFNwY2dZrHGt-suY_v2n9_woRsb81_v1dvLt9khWqbywQBUyzuFGU/s1600-h/202-6+-+Little+Turtles.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5uPsBBmQkdEQyNI3feQKCnWSyPdWw5MXCQcj12498WLEH6vYp7HN5gKW2uZhPAy-SFJee-Bkz72fi69DXSoa_PPkk9cm6-o0HmLMInHri0nzoF93WMlohNczAqMHa2FaDKmw17Nws9Uw/s1600-h/202-8+-+First+Iguana.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265264005485973346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5uPsBBmQkdEQyNI3feQKCnWSyPdWw5MXCQcj12498WLEH6vYp7HN5gKW2uZhPAy-SFJee-Bkz72fi69DXSoa_PPkk9cm6-o0HmLMInHri0nzoF93WMlohNczAqMHa2FaDKmw17Nws9Uw/s400/202-8+-+First+Iguana.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Tiny tortoises at the C. Darwin center<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2w0R1EU6NNim2fckrBgH48sfoZ4_K6m0inXXheDf3zsJWPgDvfHdVxmWf_wmTkh8uNKyW64dekpKH4ymG0NvcDCqMFNwY2dZrHGt-suY_v2n9_woRsb81_v1dvLt9khWqbywQBUyzuFGU/s1600-h/202-6+-+Little+Turtles.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265264000790938386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2w0R1EU6NNim2fckrBgH48sfoZ4_K6m0inXXheDf3zsJWPgDvfHdVxmWf_wmTkh8uNKyW64dekpKH4ymG0NvcDCqMFNwY2dZrHGt-suY_v2n9_woRsb81_v1dvLt9khWqbywQBUyzuFGU/s400/202-6+-+Little+Turtles.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />A smaller critter<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzZgwrSRD5VsW7rgNirx1L697w3GBa9X5-nrM1IWfxu7T-KZ1lyjUu15YEJytyU1A68cyBRsCDBhWtyc153_r7AxJWctjJRcDvfnjGuKRBhQVQrhjHFq4dgCq8izbZ3oNkgvf_6eE4HIY/s1600-h/202-9+-+Smaller+Wildlife.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265263256647671186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzZgwrSRD5VsW7rgNirx1L697w3GBa9X5-nrM1IWfxu7T-KZ1lyjUu15YEJytyU1A68cyBRsCDBhWtyc153_r7AxJWctjJRcDvfnjGuKRBhQVQrhjHFq4dgCq8izbZ3oNkgvf_6eE4HIY/s400/202-9+-+Smaller+Wildlife.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />And then it's onto the boat.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8HjEDmH7I4JLgYqhLe_vIy7owWIrFWc3NkmQINc4vW5F3BKx4jTzPw5mPshT76CpiHZBIboe6Ew6Eq_KDe3_BQ_bZ42z9ZqcCThC0UoYZfATwYGBXy91A_3lTiMu-GRnGrUg1Bru5wfVS/s1600-h/203-9+-+Back+at+the+Yacht.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265261721500347186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8HjEDmH7I4JLgYqhLe_vIy7owWIrFWc3NkmQINc4vW5F3BKx4jTzPw5mPshT76CpiHZBIboe6Ew6Eq_KDe3_BQ_bZ42z9ZqcCThC0UoYZfATwYGBXy91A_3lTiMu-GRnGrUg1Bru5wfVS/s400/203-9+-+Back+at+the+Yacht.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a> A very nice catamaran yacht and only 16 of us. Along for the ride are a Belgian family and friend, an American father and daughter, a British couple, and two German couples. Food is generally very good, although speaking as a cyclist it is definitely not all-you-can-eat - it mostly runs out as people go for seconds.<br /><br />We spend our first night on the boat getting acquainted, eating our first meal, eating our full, and then getting nauseous as we do our first long open water crossing in rough seas. Nothing heart-stopping but enough to initiate food liberation although I manage to keep it all down - don't want to lose any precious calories. We'll be repeating the process in a couple nights, but for now, time to enjoy beautiful Isla Isabella.<br /><br /><br />*********************************** Day 2 (203)<br />The itinerary is basically landings and snorkeling. Landings consist of getting in the Zodiacs<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPLipbloNidc1Ni99Yz5Kis7hAiBtCFNheKWQ9axRERPMlH74GoLhtqFtr9Wos-OZvRGVn9UoHitCENVL7B0xPA-cFrGPdw_6zUm2KiEche4O22-rLattRVsM_MjHRaFwBzd9ktWQm0JS/s1600-h/203-1+-+the+Zodiac.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265263253637865538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPLipbloNidc1Ni99Yz5Kis7hAiBtCFNheKWQ9axRERPMlH74GoLhtqFtr9Wos-OZvRGVn9UoHitCENVL7B0xPA-cFrGPdw_6zUm2KiEche4O22-rLattRVsM_MjHRaFwBzd9ktWQm0JS/s400/203-1+-+the+Zodiac.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />- inflatable speedboats - and heading for either a beach (wet landing) or in a few places a fixed dock. Our first day will be a couple of snorkel sessions and our first landing. In all cases it's just amazing - life is everywhere and pretty much unafraid of humans.<br /><br /><br /><br />Sealion and penguins<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQgH6Bi7ogJ9sSL6awmaMZxhRYFLlY9wlpdiO49yAxThKe5Fx3h-YdgrOv79kbGYbF5TVjhpKOucH2_2LbK0RaYujw65ppT06Y4B0gOjzPoYhw61WH-Mece0l5OEYBh_0gh9ZQHASAp3-R/s1600-h/203-10+0+Sealions+Penguins.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265261714936731042" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQgH6Bi7ogJ9sSL6awmaMZxhRYFLlY9wlpdiO49yAxThKe5Fx3h-YdgrOv79kbGYbF5TVjhpKOucH2_2LbK0RaYujw65ppT06Y4B0gOjzPoYhw61WH-Mece0l5OEYBh_0gh9ZQHASAp3-R/s400/203-10+0+Sealions+Penguins.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Snorkeling we see sea-turtles, penguins (the most northerly species lives here - the only ones that just enter the northern hemisphere), the only species of flightless cormorants <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisJ84bVl4TQ6npObl_XmN17BZNaLElekLgvIMd6oUJZKSYIMhfQ09uVqQAvvMajWt4ssbCFMKvR9F1BMW1HMxPf3OFfuJvx5GOetr-A1QdtEOydpH5r7GXObsLedLb5uJPf5TNsvowRC4B/s1600-h/203-2+-+Flightless+Cormorant.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265263255716092594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisJ84bVl4TQ6npObl_XmN17BZNaLElekLgvIMd6oUJZKSYIMhfQ09uVqQAvvMajWt4ssbCFMKvR9F1BMW1HMxPf3OFfuJvx5GOetr-A1QdtEOydpH5r7GXObsLedLb5uJPf5TNsvowRC4B/s400/203-2+-+Flightless+Cormorant.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXNH0ixkaRAQ7RycIkUpVP1PEBppp-bP9kroozP_VysduBQF34O-p9wZvnb9rR1QfJ8zgcME7yCtzAh57HnRId7FZmyVbh_1LBr7CqENRdE3lhSumjrxz1xSMcN4t6YK-b3gCv1_qX-M4l/s1600-h/203-4+-+Lovebirds.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265263252620246002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXNH0ixkaRAQ7RycIkUpVP1PEBppp-bP9kroozP_VysduBQF34O-p9wZvnb9rR1QfJ8zgcME7yCtzAh57HnRId7FZmyVbh_1LBr7CqENRdE3lhSumjrxz1xSMcN4t6YK-b3gCv1_qX-M4l/s400/203-4+-+Lovebirds.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 400px; width: 300px;" /></a> - here they're doing a courtship dance<br /><br />and plenty of other sea-birds and the fish they live on. Unfortunately I don't have a waterproof camera so all my shots are above-water. But it is amazing to swim with such a variety of life. The biggest surprises for me were the relatively cool water temperature (maybe around 21-22C, a bit chilly for extended swims without a short wet-suit) and the occasional kamikaze bird dive bombing a few feet from your head to catch a tasty morsel - it really throws you the first few dozen times it happens. Otherwise it's pretty much a tropical aquarium with big schools of fish, the occasional seal, birds, and turtles. There aren't any big reefs here so marine life isn't quite as amazing or colorful as elsewhere.<br /><br />We also do a short island hike - the islands are definitely not lush tropical paradises - for the most part they're volcanic, some fairly recent in origin and not well colonized by plants yet. As in Hawaii, the plates are passing over a hot-spot which keeps pushing new islands up while erosion slowly returns older islands into the ocean, but these aren't your spectacular 4000m peaks - the highest point on any island is well under 1000m. Still, a lot of lava formations, inland potholes, mangroves, and, of course, flamingos.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5GDISazYIc63pA4DAYDAuRMck3pcWRetcgY8YgbBAHT8k2nOpE7AxT-Ff4Nv1YbSfe6h2EQ4ZPlFUkAMTlgbbEfjjL6iWbon-khR_iQcgH0HpnVK2rxTIjJcu_NnCaflExdPeEe6t-GX/s1600-h/203-7+-+In+for+a+Landing.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265261735680524370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5GDISazYIc63pA4DAYDAuRMck3pcWRetcgY8YgbBAHT8k2nOpE7AxT-Ff4Nv1YbSfe6h2EQ4ZPlFUkAMTlgbbEfjjL6iWbon-khR_iQcgH0HpnVK2rxTIjJcu_NnCaflExdPeEe6t-GX/s400/203-7+-+In+for+a+Landing.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />Coming in for a landing and up close<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU2orHUGp7PNboNy8i6WEiJRP5-ApqtnGqKIO4_5xQlRsItAVQtXLU-EMYcVr3l6lr0Me2ew_i1GQQa3nlyZcxv51VtxaVoXmikaekdg1pdbnitGZtysOb9Ohldm2pC2BT2V5RsB2ArUh0/s1600-h/203-8+-+Flamingos.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265261729251743266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU2orHUGp7PNboNy8i6WEiJRP5-ApqtnGqKIO4_5xQlRsItAVQtXLU-EMYcVr3l6lr0Me2ew_i1GQQa3nlyZcxv51VtxaVoXmikaekdg1pdbnitGZtysOb9Ohldm2pC2BT2V5RsB2ArUh0/s400/203-8+-+Flamingos.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />OK, they're pretty much everywhere in S. America so far, although this is probably the closest I've gotten, yet.<br /><br />More inland birds (a duck variety I think) in an island pothole<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPDxkkAU0fwowaOCpLEUf5GJy46UIgtoFEmAM5ZwM_nBl_j2C_H5wd-MpKr36Fx71rqmDs3926fVQOY1r2S0glQLzbuL2crDpRyCsK_rSkZGy1CK5lx-nqX3nP1SAxYCz9gow49vyceCQF/s1600-h/203-6+-+More+Birds.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265261744885272930" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPDxkkAU0fwowaOCpLEUf5GJy46UIgtoFEmAM5ZwM_nBl_j2C_H5wd-MpKr36Fx71rqmDs3926fVQOY1r2S0glQLzbuL2crDpRyCsK_rSkZGy1CK5lx-nqX3nP1SAxYCz9gow49vyceCQF/s400/203-6+-+More+Birds.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />More pothole birds<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6_3lzQfWjGxezyhvAwqCU4mfihcXkWnJjfMCga3ra5jejxwqM3_ha0xgdtJXulCoEB_XTuQ8tFnGY1PnSnB6KkZOXXG551XIeOp1AC7mId63WMqc-8y6VDiN5bAVXI5eRyvEVOvr5SKtd/s1600-h/203-5+-+Birds.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265263257345866786" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6_3lzQfWjGxezyhvAwqCU4mfihcXkWnJjfMCga3ra5jejxwqM3_ha0xgdtJXulCoEB_XTuQ8tFnGY1PnSnB6KkZOXXG551XIeOp1AC7mId63WMqc-8y6VDiN5bAVXI5eRyvEVOvr5SKtd/s400/203-5+-+Birds.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br />Being about 1000km from the mainland, you have to wonder how this stuff gets here. They figure a new species makes it every few thousand years - some amazing fluke gets an egg or two or plant fragment clinging to a bird or drifting over from the mainland. And over time the species fork and split so the only marine iguanas anywhere are found on Galapagos - yet another species diving into the waters and foraging for food although they're not the most gracious of swimmers. Each island brings further differences in iguana populations and, of course, humans introduced a whole bunch of species in their brief 200-odd year colonization of the islands - cats, goats, fire-ants, rats...<br /><br />A few native species have been wiped out and controlling the intruders is proving very challenging, but the islands are still remarkably pristine.<br /><br />I ask our guide about the continuation of agriculture on the islands and he says that while agriculture poses quite a few problems regarding non-native species, it's already established and less problematic than ferrying all supplies from the mainland where boats will inevitably bring new free-loading organisms. In fact, the long term idea is for the islands to be mostly self-sufficient in food production. We shall see. For the most part, habitation covers only a small portion of the islands - most are uninhabited and the total population runs in the tens of thousands.<br /><br />In the evening, another boat-tour (no landing) of some mangroves where we spy quite a few giant sea turtles swimming around, quite close-by, surfacing here and there - as well as a few pelicans. And after a hard day's sightseeing, every evening brings plenty of food and some good wildlife presentations by our guide.<br /><br /><br />Giant sea turtle near our Zodiac in the mangrove<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcEM6giaYCXMuMxjwUgF1iT5ajlZT4Q3sFP-dR93pkUcydP048LdaN8-ReQQ6E-6nmViz-ml8ji_4hjoJtc1zbK_QZ3DK3TFM-lrjvfhHzCfKHHdHqD98zbrUH92kwUxu7hLo1eftSQStm/s1600-h/203-14+-+Sea+Turtle.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265259315761256930" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcEM6giaYCXMuMxjwUgF1iT5ajlZT4Q3sFP-dR93pkUcydP048LdaN8-ReQQ6E-6nmViz-ml8ji_4hjoJtc1zbK_QZ3DK3TFM-lrjvfhHzCfKHHdHqD98zbrUH92kwUxu7hLo1eftSQStm/s400/203-14+-+Sea+Turtle.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Coming up for air<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLnawaELB7_er6lKCIBVjSOuqtY9VVViBD1RhIB4Vz_pKz7Ymo29KXLvFH4qiLOWEReUdZJuAjldntRjJSy5xP15bbI_dR0znrSrVNAztJVh4EWMWYXf4ukX4KS9EubZssW2VcN2l2JI4/s1600-h/203-15+-+Coming+up+for+air.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265259327616580162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLnawaELB7_er6lKCIBVjSOuqtY9VVViBD1RhIB4Vz_pKz7Ymo29KXLvFH4qiLOWEReUdZJuAjldntRjJSy5xP15bbI_dR0znrSrVNAztJVh4EWMWYXf4ukX4KS9EubZssW2VcN2l2JI4/s400/203-15+-+Coming+up+for+air.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br />Pelican, Boobies, and Cormorant<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWzLYJQdBOee0EBeXe6YUZUK-rGX6XJ6AT50oi4NgbkJQa4eiYzqBDjCGCS5UT7M5e2X9oEcOihitUtrWjEsEu7vCU2A_MKi4W4Rlb650UshyKbjVA4tuD4K84wIyYbog3Fnwp3SXy5uvz/s1600-h/203-11+-+Cormaront+Booby+Pelican.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265259285866778354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWzLYJQdBOee0EBeXe6YUZUK-rGX6XJ6AT50oi4NgbkJQa4eiYzqBDjCGCS5UT7M5e2X9oEcOihitUtrWjEsEu7vCU2A_MKi4W4Rlb650UshyKbjVA4tuD4K84wIyYbog3Fnwp3SXy5uvz/s400/203-11+-+Cormaront+Booby+Pelican.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Similar shot with crabs in the background<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1e2LJb3Be549g6M5PGGrDutdWVxayW2QYcY2ZOKqC5krG3f-fASzvystRnUcdb1L47O1SAGeutDgFrkDiYnasqqJiVx1S3Cpi6o4TQBfpeHrBczxdgb9RX5oPR1YvBKgHRT8fJxxWP4KR/s1600-h/203-13+-+Birds+and+Crabs.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265259308041319394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1e2LJb3Be549g6M5PGGrDutdWVxayW2QYcY2ZOKqC5krG3f-fASzvystRnUcdb1L47O1SAGeutDgFrkDiYnasqqJiVx1S3Cpi6o4TQBfpeHrBczxdgb9RX5oPR1YvBKgHRT8fJxxWP4KR/s400/203-13+-+Birds+and+Crabs.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />And a falcon watching from above<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwrVKSTjpZSF50TGj7DPewudoMwyMv40FLVz8q12VLdksBaTKNZ_mF0e6yFd1XYFKLQPazUGmdM63jWtsSMuhNuiAtjOyhD85AC4sfknf95bzTObw8YxPU2daQ_t69VI8rPHoiIWk6MBQ-/s1600-h/203-12+-+Falcon.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265259299356699282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwrVKSTjpZSF50TGj7DPewudoMwyMv40FLVz8q12VLdksBaTKNZ_mF0e6yFd1XYFKLQPazUGmdM63jWtsSMuhNuiAtjOyhD85AC4sfknf95bzTObw8YxPU2daQ_t69VI8rPHoiIWk6MBQ-/s400/203-12+-+Falcon.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />These colorful crabs are everywhere<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqfw1ppRaNrD-13l5WmlFvH6W_GFtbeHkXWyaPu7pDAIt-IYCl9fcomCTFx1wq14ajZp1I8oSQEY_18eJW-Gm1vGw33ZmVg_2xYVrr36zOrEHTQaLm1is59fjYDUjz_oyNC3PDqpZ7HsS2/s1600-h/203-19+-+Colorful+Crabs.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265257828630848306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqfw1ppRaNrD-13l5WmlFvH6W_GFtbeHkXWyaPu7pDAIt-IYCl9fcomCTFx1wq14ajZp1I8oSQEY_18eJW-Gm1vGw33ZmVg_2xYVrr36zOrEHTQaLm1is59fjYDUjz_oyNC3PDqpZ7HsS2/s400/203-19+-+Colorful+Crabs.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />As are lazy sealions<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmi1NJ1gVUdZlv4Rl0pOCYSbBTUBup1LbuY4pNGq8uHWGEk0NWI1dDYzJ2eFRJGy6DTC7im32_3LK7-soyiciDGQzlPzq49xJ3yqr43ov1En68VaVfzpXoHoRECB6z2PnWFlALjGRt7S7U/s1600-h/203-16+-+Time+for+a+Break.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265257802930027426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmi1NJ1gVUdZlv4Rl0pOCYSbBTUBup1LbuY4pNGq8uHWGEk0NWI1dDYzJ2eFRJGy6DTC7im32_3LK7-soyiciDGQzlPzq49xJ3yqr43ov1En68VaVfzpXoHoRECB6z2PnWFlALjGRt7S7U/s400/203-16+-+Time+for+a+Break.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />Evening penguin shot - most northerly penguin species (actually just make it into the N Hemisphere)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigkxPUXQST7dadALBnfnnqoTV1xWakhNIN6DcD7s-5b7lnTuSEj97UYeCc09VX_nJp0QT2ZgGveKjcDlz-9HCTSBAkfpIYGs1Op3OwYsSpnlrvhe3z5g8nlAgFc1aH1ntu27pr9-u-PGRP/s1600-h/203-18+-+Penguin+Evening.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265257819111449922" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigkxPUXQST7dadALBnfnnqoTV1xWakhNIN6DcD7s-5b7lnTuSEj97UYeCc09VX_nJp0QT2ZgGveKjcDlz-9HCTSBAkfpIYGs1Op3OwYsSpnlrvhe3z5g8nlAgFc1aH1ntu27pr9-u-PGRP/s400/203-18+-+Penguin+Evening.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Blue-footed Booby coming in for a landing<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrnwZK5eCVWDt4MJlUQ8AYIZXfuWG3JcGfkQosxfvMIOqeVjlJ-keT26wUiXtULa4NxXaXxOYVXwGWJ5WNCLmiL7HmtzbtvK4IupRBO6ksB63Jz85qeQCkus4Mxblh5iKYIs4TOun5qzqd/s1600-h/203-17+-+Booby+Landing.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265257813237703570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrnwZK5eCVWDt4MJlUQ8AYIZXfuWG3JcGfkQosxfvMIOqeVjlJ-keT26wUiXtULa4NxXaXxOYVXwGWJ5WNCLmiL7HmtzbtvK4IupRBO6ksB63Jz85qeQCkus4Mxblh5iKYIs4TOun5qzqd/s400/203-17+-+Booby+Landing.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />I believe this is a frigatebird (a bit more on these parasites later)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXk3SiuFzoQDXbAxSDfXihiJBBtQUpUQ4-APVjxVokUdL9J0DFikvNJfWC82s5s9IroK6hrLAxUAaTjaYPV2wfosw-Qn3JsAUjmxibs2csA3KbTLbG1d2xpgvfPDRcFNO0lYOZVgTkQxR5/s1600-h/203-20+Frigatebird+-+maybe.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265257837170993778" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXk3SiuFzoQDXbAxSDfXihiJBBtQUpUQ4-APVjxVokUdL9J0DFikvNJfWC82s5s9IroK6hrLAxUAaTjaYPV2wfosw-Qn3JsAUjmxibs2csA3KbTLbG1d2xpgvfPDRcFNO0lYOZVgTkQxR5/s400/203-20+Frigatebird+-+maybe.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />***********************************<br />Day 3 (204) is similar - We have a couple of landings on Isla Isabella - the first one is somewhat unique - about 50 years ago volcanic activity raised the shore here by several meters over a couple of days so what was once a somewhat rare coral reef (for this part of the world) is now an even rarer bleached coral skeleton several meters above sea-level.<br /><br />Land Coral and Lizard<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihOoreYR4totZjYx-c8Uigi_J6jJNTkSSktmpvqzTjfiJrUn21wdNVgVIZv8r14yJQpqI1Vbwp2VK6FYWfU7rXCw1hRyEfrnkAuQdjbccO447UU54XrGCMLgFGNx_uksKXXuq7fFaZ8zt2/s1600-h/204-5+Land+Coral+Lizard.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265255626918086850" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihOoreYR4totZjYx-c8Uigi_J6jJNTkSSktmpvqzTjfiJrUn21wdNVgVIZv8r14yJQpqI1Vbwp2VK6FYWfU7rXCw1hRyEfrnkAuQdjbccO447UU54XrGCMLgFGNx_uksKXXuq7fFaZ8zt2/s400/204-5+Land+Coral+Lizard.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />You can walk right up to it for a few close-ups.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfkmX5U2rsf_IKd-iAaBSeH_otpve8bksRqHX_qB_8t2t1aHcoq3rAAT88SHPyTOmkGZpn9HiSladIGKUD3rcj8F_ijFLjwkuEF5yQEG6PVTc8bbf7Q6P0mftag3GF2fyzyuILuyYPpPla/s1600-h/204-6+Diatoms+Up+Close.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265255635270685090" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfkmX5U2rsf_IKd-iAaBSeH_otpve8bksRqHX_qB_8t2t1aHcoq3rAAT88SHPyTOmkGZpn9HiSladIGKUD3rcj8F_ijFLjwkuEF5yQEG6PVTc8bbf7Q6P0mftag3GF2fyzyuILuyYPpPla/s400/204-6+Diatoms+Up+Close.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />And of course plenty of crabs,<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehaZARfuIYlCDp9FVNBehkbTwGPMS29r-YcUv7OGsQsPX50aRe7mgtPBDOUg3VWJOQUQaGN4ZzQNY2U5ho6Wdqhv8ku3jXQejHnAwRvHFXtfCTNzqiRxWMIAkU_WpGIOAzWxhWgipx0SH/s1600-h/204-1+Sideways+Crab.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265256033680253682" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehaZARfuIYlCDp9FVNBehkbTwGPMS29r-YcUv7OGsQsPX50aRe7mgtPBDOUg3VWJOQUQaGN4ZzQNY2U5ho6Wdqhv8ku3jXQejHnAwRvHFXtfCTNzqiRxWMIAkU_WpGIOAzWxhWgipx0SH/s400/204-1+Sideways+Crab.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />birds,<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHHp4ttkM9EjigWwQJjLN6mrJ40l_W3kpo9q9wa3BU5dIPF5mDO4MRT1vyiiydHGq-meI2scHmn7TOdQ_czn-OnnH6pyGm-Af2RJpfr5JIOXqumCq4MQJxXN5gZuY4vaBTO4LVVb89E3VB/s1600-h/204-2+-+Tiny+Bird.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265256033027590258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHHp4ttkM9EjigWwQJjLN6mrJ40l_W3kpo9q9wa3BU5dIPF5mDO4MRT1vyiiydHGq-meI2scHmn7TOdQ_czn-OnnH6pyGm-Af2RJpfr5JIOXqumCq4MQJxXN5gZuY4vaBTO4LVVb89E3VB/s400/204-2+-+Tiny+Bird.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />and more crabs<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNBVnXkfc0H0A23mzJGRd7BEe0m5dKhKRRwP8hMVw0zCoXBdJHrmYYAc8vQxf0vPtymQmomlmYICpq7qpQxWR300TzrOMs4ziWkqKqgcjHbTBhyphenhyphenADRa6HNrmA_kmS4xwmjWJtGqjKj_8BW/s1600-h/204-3+-+Another+Crab.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265256031457818322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNBVnXkfc0H0A23mzJGRd7BEe0m5dKhKRRwP8hMVw0zCoXBdJHrmYYAc8vQxf0vPtymQmomlmYICpq7qpQxWR300TzrOMs4ziWkqKqgcjHbTBhyphenhyphenADRa6HNrmA_kmS4xwmjWJtGqjKj_8BW/s400/204-3+-+Another+Crab.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Awww - cute land iguana<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrj0LjLaPPvGrF_xDP_3BMoEhNm5P8vBJD1mHjRPQwAo-31PVGo6K6iuN1RSrT5DciQNFdvIcN_L0VHTotpzUXZVlDK1hMJE61PSzYpmZtVT4q-T0X5Mr1IhMLIr_7oXrpleAlg4bt30bf/s1600-h/204-8+Iguana+Close+Up.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265255640245211682" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrj0LjLaPPvGrF_xDP_3BMoEhNm5P8vBJD1mHjRPQwAo-31PVGo6K6iuN1RSrT5DciQNFdvIcN_L0VHTotpzUXZVlDK1hMJE61PSzYpmZtVT4q-T0X5Mr1IhMLIr_7oXrpleAlg4bt30bf/s400/204-8+Iguana+Close+Up.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Another pose<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhelxU74iS_Z1yhPWgB-I1Oy0tsmGWOCPr-uzg_tW3KFghQH-Ouq3rtd4uGk0hSBupShHD6_Cb75zf98aE4p4K63SphO5138zDQdk4rGG5FrCtf-aVVcE2nRnsg0VZDtgSIq8Tnx3m1Hkw3/s1600-h/204-7+Land+Iguana.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265255639008445522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhelxU74iS_Z1yhPWgB-I1Oy0tsmGWOCPr-uzg_tW3KFghQH-Ouq3rtd4uGk0hSBupShHD6_Cb75zf98aE4p4K63SphO5138zDQdk4rGG5FrCtf-aVVcE2nRnsg0VZDtgSIq8Tnx3m1Hkw3/s400/204-7+Land+Iguana.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br />Afternoon there was another landing - this time for sea-lions (alive and a few dead ones too -<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHwR0sChVA-dPMhunIbROEdSOuT4lRBBn0VhpDIxHYzT4jXpYSW-O6tEdWeKXGZaz3_YnNSrQYvr9pzpCHPbkfuK-mA6Wqfds13SngoZvCaK42rgk-gdJarWWP7zrmN6Zlep7o8h5new4D/s1600-h/204-4+-+The+Choir+Invisible.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265256024293708018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHwR0sChVA-dPMhunIbROEdSOuT4lRBBn0VhpDIxHYzT4jXpYSW-O6tEdWeKXGZaz3_YnNSrQYvr9pzpCHPbkfuK-mA6Wqfds13SngoZvCaK42rgk-gdJarWWP7zrmN6Zlep7o8h5new4D/s400/204-4+-+The+Choir+Invisible.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />there are barely any scavengers here so the corpses take a long, long time to decompose)<br /><br />and more iguanas and the odd blue-footed-booby (the most T-shirt advertised bird on the islands).<br /><br />Local variety of cotton<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeGnaBF8kuHo7oxq7AkQGgtV-4RvhVo1VMqW1xzpvojvQBNW07shOZcrNGUpaMH7zCPoTuQF1wLcv7qFJQ687rbyUPcpW-vNCaihI0IHCympM-1freHXeYO5AQYuPqW8wTBuGAc3W7Mh4/s1600-h/204-9+Local+Cotton.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265256025186072466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeGnaBF8kuHo7oxq7AkQGgtV-4RvhVo1VMqW1xzpvojvQBNW07shOZcrNGUpaMH7zCPoTuQF1wLcv7qFJQ687rbyUPcpW-vNCaihI0IHCympM-1freHXeYO5AQYuPqW8wTBuGAc3W7Mh4/s400/204-9+Local+Cotton.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Only snake I saw on the island<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ_IAhyphenhyphenDKm19X-Rh-RFnv41-y1CDFMw3OFQuEPRPshkGW0JYj1Ya_n0LgQ-tRi5pAIi4pmvNpoc2imT2EyT4S0jOstSmOZ5NCTHCVoxsXUxFq2rd52L6Vy0_MMR7nKA-YdS6cK81rjym76/s1600-h/204-13+-+Snake.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265253531021378178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ_IAhyphenhyphenDKm19X-Rh-RFnv41-y1CDFMw3OFQuEPRPshkGW0JYj1Ya_n0LgQ-tRi5pAIi4pmvNpoc2imT2EyT4S0jOstSmOZ5NCTHCVoxsXUxFq2rd52L6Vy0_MMR7nKA-YdS6cK81rjym76/s400/204-13+-+Snake.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Don't Roll Over (sealion and tiny lizard)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2TwFhA_UiS2zOIQ8tebz8TNve1XMFh2XxDS4m-pfvoRw4KMwSzlpjjznqxw8eZRUXvKKwqy8RL9B_ngXtwSPWfXXYSsZgZrnJoiRWfB9F6_VXbWx1XEhfxTn3FeqgxLXI9bcBQiNUtbBM/s1600-h/204-12+Dont+Roll+Over.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265253523274157778" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2TwFhA_UiS2zOIQ8tebz8TNve1XMFh2XxDS4m-pfvoRw4KMwSzlpjjznqxw8eZRUXvKKwqy8RL9B_ngXtwSPWfXXYSsZgZrnJoiRWfB9F6_VXbWx1XEhfxTn3FeqgxLXI9bcBQiNUtbBM/s400/204-12+Dont+Roll+Over.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Iguana, Crab, Driftwood<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDG50cyYVY4tteQeYXpG9q8mu3jXqWAxUXQSLxnvrx6mU-3uSJspHeY070u9xbP8RwUzLcnZxjN7tteCM7SQLOCVeFlrhGP1nnBDUY9an0khOjYeq9JNzIQ1rGcZV8RJvvkXecQDTGFbXT/s1600-h/204-11+-+Crab+Wood+Iguana.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265253512612078114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDG50cyYVY4tteQeYXpG9q8mu3jXqWAxUXQSLxnvrx6mU-3uSJspHeY070u9xbP8RwUzLcnZxjN7tteCM7SQLOCVeFlrhGP1nnBDUY9an0khOjYeq9JNzIQ1rGcZV8RJvvkXecQDTGFbXT/s400/204-11+-+Crab+Wood+Iguana.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Baby sealion<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO6djh1bPCAvJcBaZyGJesLdNasiIKfUZvWJNaNS5RIQZaxYB48x_H7p0fKBB5ymdeTkQxQX4yphfaEbxFNf3u5-BbE9FWmbpuxlp9-DiEqFdNkLBltppO_hLF9F3nNA-f4I5bavWFclbT/s1600-h/204-10+-+Baby+Sealion.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265253504821369842" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO6djh1bPCAvJcBaZyGJesLdNasiIKfUZvWJNaNS5RIQZaxYB48x_H7p0fKBB5ymdeTkQxQX4yphfaEbxFNf3u5-BbE9FWmbpuxlp9-DiEqFdNkLBltppO_hLF9F3nNA-f4I5bavWFclbT/s400/204-10+-+Baby+Sealion.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br />Oh Look - The Queen! - somehow flightless cormorants do a lot of neat posing even for ugly birds. At the bottom there's (hopefully) a video of a Karate Kid Bird.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeODtoGLkcexZcX5FEMFmFLQ7bZtOjR_mO-FW3BryjvuwuowwdPYscKSCs-Wir3NyIedGmNoO1NVK19OgOoA-yBsnJsD1F65h0BfnluYNCQ7ON2Q2J3qDr5jAfNuCFdWvi57TPg_kSy5hH/s1600-h/204-14+Oh+Look+the+Queen.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265252967994222674" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeODtoGLkcexZcX5FEMFmFLQ7bZtOjR_mO-FW3BryjvuwuowwdPYscKSCs-Wir3NyIedGmNoO1NVK19OgOoA-yBsnJsD1F65h0BfnluYNCQ7ON2Q2J3qDr5jAfNuCFdWvi57TPg_kSy5hH/s400/204-14+Oh+Look+the+Queen.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Mother and Baby Sealion<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQeUwgEN9-dBhO0wtxYdYeIh0D-8Q9FWpL9myP7FBIF8qKzQpZekxxXrQAEvSq9q3ooEq3voFsXkxg2tu2u_LE67tiW67WMZYDYG-5IJTiLVu8t-W1YQrD64jRxSBuv63UKnBSMAMzYret/s1600-h/204-15+Mother+and+Child+Sealion.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265252977471748450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQeUwgEN9-dBhO0wtxYdYeIh0D-8Q9FWpL9myP7FBIF8qKzQpZekxxXrQAEvSq9q3ooEq3voFsXkxg2tu2u_LE67tiW67WMZYDYG-5IJTiLVu8t-W1YQrD64jRxSBuv63UKnBSMAMzYret/s400/204-15+Mother+and+Child+Sealion.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Cactii on the island<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2DQZ9DDideushjz3-D9spGHq1Wub7QMQu2rLZ90qjnd2G-C2BEJWsZFvrrKUJtOBBoPci0Zc4DyDF8Vu1ITyEcFUsKtujvT9QqhG4fIPYtCP30jO43ooT7_G8yDYzor5Gpj8iVNZd56eJ/s1600-h/204-16+-+Cactii.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265252978910970834" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2DQZ9DDideushjz3-D9spGHq1Wub7QMQu2rLZ90qjnd2G-C2BEJWsZFvrrKUJtOBBoPci0Zc4DyDF8Vu1ITyEcFUsKtujvT9QqhG4fIPYtCP30jO43ooT7_G8yDYzor5Gpj8iVNZd56eJ/s400/204-16+-+Cactii.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />And closeup (click for a large scale image)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYH8bhP89x5WfofG29YN7OPC4A4WUzLp3j7h9HZZtoKc7InYiy1NVm6H2F3EqltiKLqR5Ac9NiKEwg5Cv3hdf1f7as4p1j4gr92B98Qc5vustgH05CbnB3IMqiA0g5ILNZSleIssxy7Uay/s1600-h/204-17+-+Up+Close.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265252992277909858" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYH8bhP89x5WfofG29YN7OPC4A4WUzLp3j7h9HZZtoKc7InYiy1NVm6H2F3EqltiKLqR5Ac9NiKEwg5Cv3hdf1f7as4p1j4gr92B98Qc5vustgH05CbnB3IMqiA0g5ILNZSleIssxy7Uay/s400/204-17+-+Up+Close.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />By evening we're motoring north around the island, crossing the equator (my first time outside of an airplane), and another longer open-water crossing away from Isabella towards the main group of islands.<br /><br />The Equator for Pat and Bernardo<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSBLg9vPRX3MDT37ZMlZa75KGnYCLHovPNXkTjy1iU7VO34mw0HdgrqOfkiIDMYGTmznFk0DQKW7N7rUQREKXUX8vns_Vwx2nFvSbp4ciKVcaC6Sx9LO_DQQtVzmAthelXn5jHusmKBPgc/s1600-h/204-18+-+The+Equator.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265253536506103634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSBLg9vPRX3MDT37ZMlZa75KGnYCLHovPNXkTjy1iU7VO34mw0HdgrqOfkiIDMYGTmznFk0DQKW7N7rUQREKXUX8vns_Vwx2nFvSbp4ciKVcaC6Sx9LO_DQQtVzmAthelXn5jHusmKBPgc/s400/204-18+-+The+Equator.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br />Our last full day on the yacht (205) is quite different - until now we've had our excursions to ourselves - now we start to see lots and lots of other cruises including the "big ones" - boats with well over 100 passengers which tend to swamp some of the attractions. But we're all here for the same reason and so I can't complain about overcrowding. Still, the first couple days to ourselves was pretty nice.<br /><br />Lava tubes on St Bartolomeo<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi13U-fAsKg4Cm0g4-5PiyDihs-MuRvFnEetahbNE-G0mP3nXDv7bOo4Q431LMjlCAU7-lNtBZYHcvCxLWD7zc7hbtfDvyh0rUoK9HES5868ES1EJlwmbmpaPJDNRQjnSAkaORqchUvzlK5/s1600-h/205-3+-+Lava+Tube.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265251437582116210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi13U-fAsKg4Cm0g4-5PiyDihs-MuRvFnEetahbNE-G0mP3nXDv7bOo4Q431LMjlCAU7-lNtBZYHcvCxLWD7zc7hbtfDvyh0rUoK9HES5868ES1EJlwmbmpaPJDNRQjnSAkaORqchUvzlK5/s400/205-3+-+Lava+Tube.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />We do the obligatory hike up San Bartolomeo<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEMha_iGn7r9yX1idjfHX_vBdEPnDGIiDUrww3p_0x-RZc8KPGNU9BRlijowMlLVR5gsYzNbLN70QHAUlrA3mRU3-Ozg1AQ7Kam5-qWR-Dos28Qgg0do7CAX_d2S19AERPfiEfnxVjSEc0/s1600-h/205-2+-+The+Gang.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265251439533888370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEMha_iGn7r9yX1idjfHX_vBdEPnDGIiDUrww3p_0x-RZc8KPGNU9BRlijowMlLVR5gsYzNbLN70QHAUlrA3mRU3-Ozg1AQ7Kam5-qWR-Dos28Qgg0do7CAX_d2S19AERPfiEfnxVjSEc0/s400/205-2+-+The+Gang.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />to get a panorama of the islands and from there head to the little isthmus of 2 beaches -<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIm7zjuVRxH0IUZwYZLhOd0B0ol05_tjt2k_-VjRcpLUddvkQ4s0MRfVTris4hzwUTTFVBwNm3y27rXF30eoGBqBLu2crBCPrijX5FOOBRXpgj0W2Oj0QKMxiLkTZYpa9gwr2ZZuAM8CF7/s1600-h/205-1+-+St+Bartolomeo.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265251432572787618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIm7zjuVRxH0IUZwYZLhOd0B0ol05_tjt2k_-VjRcpLUddvkQ4s0MRfVTris4hzwUTTFVBwNm3y27rXF30eoGBqBLu2crBCPrijX5FOOBRXpgj0W2Oj0QKMxiLkTZYpa9gwr2ZZuAM8CF7/s400/205-1+-+St+Bartolomeo.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />one for bird watching while on the other we get our final snorkeling in - and it is a fine session with a lot of fish. Well, by now you've probably figured out that I'm no biologist - let's just say there were plenty of colorful species and again some diving birds to scare you now and then. I have to say the penguins are just amazing to watch underwater.<br /><br />Final snorkeling trip<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6_wOX6iR5WSyPIMN8MpKXWazLFk8pbpxSvl948bo8P1-ZV1SMbYAcrSdS-9K7vsazqs6zIO6m_RAu7lqWYmyGER65xyQMsIhhsPewreqO78UI03Wpc4Swg72pK7Uq2NLNdyUwoLEKGTqF/s1600-h/205-5+-+Snorkel+Time.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265251450201453778" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6_wOX6iR5WSyPIMN8MpKXWazLFk8pbpxSvl948bo8P1-ZV1SMbYAcrSdS-9K7vsazqs6zIO6m_RAu7lqWYmyGER65xyQMsIhhsPewreqO78UI03Wpc4Swg72pK7Uq2NLNdyUwoLEKGTqF/s400/205-5+-+Snorkel+Time.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />The point at St Bartolomeo - this was used by US forces during WWII for shelling practice - hence the many pockmarks.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqQtX-t9pRpzHxU3L7o6wp49c8xe0ea5qLwso4lTsBV4YA0qL5uvJnLxR5kl5Q1pAqyv1gVNuvdG6DVa880h5BCwQkTtFolE1Wc2Ye3jcngQA0PbGDesP5514ZSn_EwZRZJr9wimDSEOwq/s1600-h/205-4+-+Shell+Practice.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265251445306265906" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqQtX-t9pRpzHxU3L7o6wp49c8xe0ea5qLwso4lTsBV4YA0qL5uvJnLxR5kl5Q1pAqyv1gVNuvdG6DVa880h5BCwQkTtFolE1Wc2Ye3jcngQA0PbGDesP5514ZSn_EwZRZJr9wimDSEOwq/s400/205-4+-+Shell+Practice.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 400px; width: 300px;" /></a><br /><br />Our last landing of the trip is a cliff-face where lots of birds have set up their nests and we learn a bit more about them. The frigate-birds are quite interesting. They tend to hover high up and attack other birds to get them to drop their fish which they then devour - basically they're parasite birds. They're actually too big to land in the water (unable to take off) so they have to stay airborne or on land and just terrorize smaller birds. There are quite a few other species as well...<br /><br />A pair of ??? just staring at yet another group of tourists hiking past their nesting site. Like the red eye-liner.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVvLYBRrn42u6qMEBVqFRpu8XUH0ixv_wkjaCzRHiabxrWVncVvYTYX2sQsOfztLB6om7xGeDqt89vk2uhZ78GI1yEsMnWp0uGFmUVCz4L2FujOBGaLrsQIHhFxLjlRQpRQl_HVnBODD5p/s1600-h/205-9+-+Bird+Pair.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265249531950282866" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVvLYBRrn42u6qMEBVqFRpu8XUH0ixv_wkjaCzRHiabxrWVncVvYTYX2sQsOfztLB6om7xGeDqt89vk2uhZ78GI1yEsMnWp0uGFmUVCz4L2FujOBGaLrsQIHhFxLjlRQpRQl_HVnBODD5p/s400/205-9+-+Bird+Pair.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Another species of land Iguana - they vary from island to island.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8nmTtESDUEENLQOO7UKGK-1KvWrI09WNIhGJ4SHGeLoCl8yFY_z0RrVf5zkYzrOGPkgfIYxj8uEAtThp6o6EgWw60P1c5pcvPAvVWOq_vXSDoOl9eH6OCLoVe6pi2uo8jXnxMZf_AQ_w/s1600-h/205-8+-+Marine+or+Land+Iguana.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265249521365006002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8nmTtESDUEENLQOO7UKGK-1KvWrI09WNIhGJ4SHGeLoCl8yFY_z0RrVf5zkYzrOGPkgfIYxj8uEAtThp6o6EgWw60P1c5pcvPAvVWOq_vXSDoOl9eH6OCLoVe6pi2uo8jXnxMZf_AQ_w/s400/205-8+-+Marine+or+Land+Iguana.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Just like this picture<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ZSbxmaHCYcYPi0yrZ8aDzxX2bxR3k73BQcEQSuVFgaxR8qKJu5g62PdQyZhHUqhuAmMeBiP41wbOrQR1nLSwmQAqkY-DVMivR94rTfLQMCH_iTq-uJVue4qlPJJYaz6szJw6cplfxQCP/s1600-h/205-7+-+Another+Neat+Bird.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265249519383138130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ZSbxmaHCYcYPi0yrZ8aDzxX2bxR3k73BQcEQSuVFgaxR8qKJu5g62PdQyZhHUqhuAmMeBiP41wbOrQR1nLSwmQAqkY-DVMivR94rTfLQMCH_iTq-uJVue4qlPJJYaz6szJw6cplfxQCP/s400/205-7+-+Another+Neat+Bird.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />and this one<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuaLnXjziqp1omMsm8Oq9STzkviVrZ7FqQeoLjwVyAkw2D4XcKtcklGhKlJ3QsqGPwN0UN_R1ebBOY3vWo91xzgPnVB6W0oQvwIAvXkqJo5VMzRvxXjpbzp2ZJX5oO1lR-Wu9zHp4OfTon/s1600-h/205-6+Neat+Bird.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265249515491643746" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuaLnXjziqp1omMsm8Oq9STzkviVrZ7FqQeoLjwVyAkw2D4XcKtcklGhKlJ3QsqGPwN0UN_R1ebBOY3vWo91xzgPnVB6W0oQvwIAvXkqJo5VMzRvxXjpbzp2ZJX5oO1lR-Wu9zHp4OfTon/s400/205-6+Neat+Bird.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Some Driftwood<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQvzSLmumJ9osXCnBHwTXcNaZJAATrYrvA3gE05RyS_KovNadq4DeW256r5RPlh5Gm2CX5bmQzaOebdSW_C2JybhPdhF11zwRT9-p47WklcjsfSuLU_g8JX7LzLgz3FJUSgeqZyNgbVnOU/s1600-h/205-10+Driftwood.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265249534106940658" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQvzSLmumJ9osXCnBHwTXcNaZJAATrYrvA3gE05RyS_KovNadq4DeW256r5RPlh5Gm2CX5bmQzaOebdSW_C2JybhPdhF11zwRT9-p47WklcjsfSuLU_g8JX7LzLgz3FJUSgeqZyNgbVnOU/s400/205-10+Driftwood.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Up Close (click for a large scale image - somehow I kept uploading these full-size instead of rescaled, most of the rest are full-size, too)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDcwz9yUVDcfpiHNIHTT3wGpxHWrvKUHWst_x6sV9A4gmr4JK07cbdohBiYe81Ha5TAKWYdjLGEGjDuJAg3_KHVQ0b9ZvRbwdJYhAe3MEpJMkRemjFAqNXYGE2hDupXmNFt0O83Y-WBUHC/s1600-h/205-11+-+Up+Close.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265246900357667378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDcwz9yUVDcfpiHNIHTT3wGpxHWrvKUHWst_x6sV9A4gmr4JK07cbdohBiYe81Ha5TAKWYdjLGEGjDuJAg3_KHVQ0b9ZvRbwdJYhAe3MEpJMkRemjFAqNXYGE2hDupXmNFt0O83Y-WBUHC/s400/205-11+-+Up+Close.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br />By evening we're heading for San Christobal where we leave tomorrow - but one final treat awaits us - our guide spots a whale off deck<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAi_QcKPkLZszPOkUYnBQEBAPTHceILgm473nGmBo185ujX7NUL7A3rqiqigJTKnH3YjLKNd7jti7K03crZa8-axePMDBhzIpKlhP8PsqUMVrRnPypOw3rOvYJeAGrh6s_CBfQG04HMXAH/s1600-h/205-12+-+Whale.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265246907972241330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAi_QcKPkLZszPOkUYnBQEBAPTHceILgm473nGmBo185ujX7NUL7A3rqiqigJTKnH3YjLKNd7jti7K03crZa8-axePMDBhzIpKlhP8PsqUMVrRnPypOw3rOvYJeAGrh6s_CBfQG04HMXAH/s400/205-12+-+Whale.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />and later a flock of dolphins<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz0VVMI9PwXAGmIudWjjDMA1inRfCcDZC48_ka98_bOMmrgKTaYtu3NpwotInZmEj3C0JsEHDuZFE-ItECBf5Ut-r2MieGxFld4k2GyOxeK9YAB_-_swXeDe999tzBym3rr9Phexij3vIr/s1600-h/205-13+Dolphins.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265246912052320978" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz0VVMI9PwXAGmIudWjjDMA1inRfCcDZC48_ka98_bOMmrgKTaYtu3NpwotInZmEj3C0JsEHDuZFE-ItECBf5Ut-r2MieGxFld4k2GyOxeK9YAB_-_swXeDe999tzBym3rr9Phexij3vIr/s400/205-13+Dolphins.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />accompanies our boat. Great finish.<br /><br />And then it's over - a nice final dinner and toast aboard the yacht<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4eJ6O_mIQRZe2eTIDeOvVLFXyYxrmg9O4v-AUtXTMRJxNe-oDLsWZi6jWQ5Vr8LPBPSuhJ0nnZd2DvhAxYtjNWdobE_LHZp3fMyzIII03ajrg2qaeBAln9Rw2TQornz79eGUFDjLitAE/s1600-h/205-14+-+Farewell+Yacht.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265246915187242626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4eJ6O_mIQRZe2eTIDeOvVLFXyYxrmg9O4v-AUtXTMRJxNe-oDLsWZi6jWQ5Vr8LPBPSuhJ0nnZd2DvhAxYtjNWdobE_LHZp3fMyzIII03ajrg2qaeBAln9Rw2TQornz79eGUFDjLitAE/s400/205-14+-+Farewell+Yacht.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />followed by more pirated DVDs - The Dark Knight is already available - complete with the shadow of some guy who got up and left in front of the person making the bootleg at some movie theater.<br /><br />Last day in Galapagos (day 206) - goodbye Seaman II<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTz_vE67GdUQe0qbt9eFc0zyrNZzJahMhb8ICqfegw_Z4WroMUejiUUya0iNpY1vU0lrQU5PR1b6IRSv0XMhWsyqCjwt_zPsV5-LRBKmPqEfmhsjQyv0IZD9lTTjJSB3ALsJjxvz3yCdRh/s1600-h/206-0+Final+Departure.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265246919795429874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTz_vE67GdUQe0qbt9eFc0zyrNZzJahMhb8ICqfegw_Z4WroMUejiUUya0iNpY1vU0lrQU5PR1b6IRSv0XMhWsyqCjwt_zPsV5-LRBKmPqEfmhsjQyv0IZD9lTTjJSB3ALsJjxvz3yCdRh/s400/206-0+Final+Departure.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />one of the many boats in San Christobal harbor<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8MSdo1tsDEl62SyoGkaU9hkaxCc_3VzZ_0_XwstFT7hpZ00rVruE2dPscU41w2BSmceyVSV0kh6bqHMo-X0FKqxOouxJQtwHzGqUoHBF-j9H9ItiG5kKsQJyMhYGQwgJldWIH9TfSJ-0w/s1600-h/206-1+-+In+Port.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265242786363616818" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8MSdo1tsDEl62SyoGkaU9hkaxCc_3VzZ_0_XwstFT7hpZ00rVruE2dPscU41w2BSmceyVSV0kh6bqHMo-X0FKqxOouxJQtwHzGqUoHBF-j9H9ItiG5kKsQJyMhYGQwgJldWIH9TfSJ-0w/s400/206-1+-+In+Port.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Final harbor view - San Christobal<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhf-iMv_TMbEVlLR2UfzmBuifFEN2c7hlVoN7hBm2Y2duWWjI_4NlvWWYRSwpVFcRREeEREBhptKCanxiJHKROD669qYxBZz6SoP7kUA95vMvIg82I9dgk8jHxbUv-Wu7RE7Ohcokp4uZr/s1600-h/206-2+-+Port+Again.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265242797304364594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhf-iMv_TMbEVlLR2UfzmBuifFEN2c7hlVoN7hBm2Y2duWWjI_4NlvWWYRSwpVFcRREeEREBhptKCanxiJHKROD669qYxBZz6SoP7kUA95vMvIg82I9dgk8jHxbUv-Wu7RE7Ohcokp4uZr/s400/206-2+-+Port+Again.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Our final day is mostly waiting around - there's one small museum in San Christobal (Puerto Moreno) where we spend about an hour and then it's waiting at the airport for the 3-hour-delayed-plane-which-is-never-never-late, then a mad rush to my hostel to get the bike and go back to the airport and wait for my 14-hour delayed flight back to the States.<br /><br />Goodbye Fred - my bunkmate for 4 nights<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIr_dZ1RC6i38z8SXLTHfyGW8vTWt4VY249mINEwegQCO-WwPvRA6874-CBxbDm6TPE1O6NBFKEqgqk1lBWtmKTT_qgAMTZ2Sp8FZ8szwmxmPsRZlCXu2RdKAQeVSnGB0l8T9qPkEoneOS/s1600-h/206-3+Me+and+Fred.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265242809989144914" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIr_dZ1RC6i38z8SXLTHfyGW8vTWt4VY249mINEwegQCO-WwPvRA6874-CBxbDm6TPE1O6NBFKEqgqk1lBWtmKTT_qgAMTZ2Sp8FZ8szwmxmPsRZlCXu2RdKAQeVSnGB0l8T9qPkEoneOS/s400/206-3+Me+and+Fred.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br />OK - let's see how good your German is. Leaving the airport on San Christobal.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgncv_-JRdZ_RdoactIJYNYP7tyQq9Pl03V4VWwyjneaVMw-KXis74CKNlIJphdLz0BAqDBsv4sE1YUkabg-oNwbNNfKW4GjM1YKPNi2-4SXU_kkDReR25K2Q2XYvABSN0Zd4p3yEP6oZKL/s1600-h/206-4+-+Guten+Abend.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265242817039087570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgncv_-JRdZ_RdoactIJYNYP7tyQq9Pl03V4VWwyjneaVMw-KXis74CKNlIJphdLz0BAqDBsv4sE1YUkabg-oNwbNNfKW4GjM1YKPNi2-4SXU_kkDReR25K2Q2XYvABSN0Zd4p3yEP6oZKL/s400/206-4+-+Guten+Abend.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />If you're thinking about a Galapagos trip I think "5-days" is pretty decent - it's billed as a 5-day excursion but really you get 3-full days of touring and 1 pretty good day on the island when you arrive and pretty much 1 lost day getting off the islands. The "8-day" trips get a bit more touring in although in our case we didn't miss all that much - mostly some nice sea-caves. I do recommend getting a passage which includes Isabella if you want to see some more remote sections with very few other tourists.<br /><br />Beyond that, I enjoyed our guide [and feel really guilty as I write this a few months later that I can't find the sheet where I wrote his name] - a level 3 (which means a related university degree + various certifications) which you only tend to get on the more expensive cruises. Otherwise I suppose I would have been quite happy with a lower priced option, but I just couldn't find one last minute. So winging it in peak season (especially if you're not traveling alone) is probably not the way to go unless you want to take what you can get 2-4 weeks out and spend some time exploring Ecuador in the meantime - which isn't all that bad either.<br /><br />So this is how it all ends. 200+ days in S. America and the trip of a lifetime and I get a bonus day thrown in in the fanciest hotel of the whole trip - I just can't enjoy it much as I get shipped in around 1:30am and need to be back on a bus to the airport by around 9:30. Still, the breakfast buffet is by far the most luxurious meal of the whole trip. Too bad I need to be at a wedding in 3 days time and 450km from Chicago traveling by bike, the lost day will be challenging...<br /><br />Farewell Ecuador<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4PrUOS4B_slxOKwRqrgBZbsjKkrwNbr02iPAV_fT-1Kh9yEOxFEa2LQoZJLdzcIqI1bcr0gSx6451eG9BbtBi8Sl2oovX5y2M7lPsdRPcTDCgUV5ek-SIR1QbmrcZqWZaUxM140cDP59f/s1600-h/206-7+-+Leaving+for+Good.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265242820985793010" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4PrUOS4B_slxOKwRqrgBZbsjKkrwNbr02iPAV_fT-1Kh9yEOxFEa2LQoZJLdzcIqI1bcr0gSx6451eG9BbtBi8Sl2oovX5y2M7lPsdRPcTDCgUV5ek-SIR1QbmrcZqWZaUxM140cDP59f/s400/206-7+-+Leaving+for+Good.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Videos: Turtle Eating</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwM06juPH5lf-DtRY5kXP-Jqw1WPRAkiErWMfW9aa3XfzB9mpY48dWpbFaDTA82rwCdTL8fo-ygoRDY1pCuxg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwILjJKt04jN_h3kky5R2Qr8pqqiGtlKXWVXAZWGss-2sZwu89CrMx0tgNg9NhP_W1ji6ts-StHIpqHF3U0Nw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><br /></div><br />Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-55290674471924844352024-02-25T15:11:00.000-08:002024-02-25T15:11:44.894-08:00Week 29 - The END for now - Trujillo - GuayaquilOK - week 29 - the final day of cycling and the trip to Guayaquil and return to the States - or maybe Galapagos... - More pictures to follow<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx-nj47bdcWnZiHJKuSHtmkoWnB1hiKEnuexIMbbiy1n6kuXRvkugm4DX63RboOXJhd6yaCo8AscS5zcavJs_hP3yr8136E5qdYlQz7Lo-TPOgyg68BA1NHC2kRBFANAI5POaeZ62gL3wU/s1600-h/198-1+-+Lucho+and+2+Touring+Cyclists.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx-nj47bdcWnZiHJKuSHtmkoWnB1hiKEnuexIMbbiy1n6kuXRvkugm4DX63RboOXJhd6yaCo8AscS5zcavJs_hP3yr8136E5qdYlQz7Lo-TPOgyg68BA1NHC2kRBFANAI5POaeZ62gL3wU/s400/198-1+-+Lucho+and+2+Touring+Cyclists.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257373530307771490" border="0" /></a><br /><br />(day 198) Lucho and 2 crazy cyclists (Me and Eric)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzvSx7XjC6wIJ0LhoKPld3BPbahmwIvbkDzQKqPJZKx0Mi6Yfuz_dtNsOMkhCdn19FoQv8MguFPrfaXdrrkxZ9kwzlorSDd733W2CeMr4Mtlu6MVjGV_DEGP7o5wv5SKiAD7QqR_-cfJXm/s1600-h/198-2+-+Getting+ready+for+the+Kids.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzvSx7XjC6wIJ0LhoKPld3BPbahmwIvbkDzQKqPJZKx0Mi6Yfuz_dtNsOMkhCdn19FoQv8MguFPrfaXdrrkxZ9kwzlorSDd733W2CeMr4Mtlu6MVjGV_DEGP7o5wv5SKiAD7QqR_-cfJXm/s400/198-2+-+Getting+ready+for+the+Kids.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257373531125151730" border="0" /></a><br />Police presence at the kid's race (ambulance too)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiijNUogvroCFoXomQcNIwp012b_dsKY-FbeGZTh5b6dMmqeRRa3xrdudYX9TNeNpEyc9TU3Y6Ykd88xdU9wLDSQU3v-L7rPDK48Tsnx81j7MJdCfRlmz6bBv0DhnSEEIT8D4kBICPK_ajO/s1600-h/198-3+-+The+Hobo+Cyclists.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiijNUogvroCFoXomQcNIwp012b_dsKY-FbeGZTh5b6dMmqeRRa3xrdudYX9TNeNpEyc9TU3Y6Ykd88xdU9wLDSQU3v-L7rPDK48Tsnx81j7MJdCfRlmz6bBv0DhnSEEIT8D4kBICPK_ajO/s400/198-3+-+The+Hobo+Cyclists.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257373532613279042" border="0" /></a><br />The Hobo cyclists (26-months into their epic)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_5WnheggZrv09LEdgC4bXQf45MNVLTQTapWRU_ujw0baCouii2Hl6fImiuQU_ytKfdoBtfF81H8jVCWqON4eH3JvyXMG69MzOgCwU4-mSq8vmn7vyE2HWiKTBLLIQmPCFPmJ5qWB_UIeO/s1600-h/198-4+-+Starting+Line.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_5WnheggZrv09LEdgC4bXQf45MNVLTQTapWRU_ujw0baCouii2Hl6fImiuQU_ytKfdoBtfF81H8jVCWqON4eH3JvyXMG69MzOgCwU4-mSq8vmn7vyE2HWiKTBLLIQmPCFPmJ5qWB_UIeO/s400/198-4+-+Starting+Line.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257373537244548290" border="0" /></a><br />The riders get ready<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSezQOpXU1VGBPPpvm61TuREBUHcJbq4lU4RDIKi_XE1_0RvPYgquYJGPU3I5RUU4q8oxdGUoXBH_0Ks5G5OQC4A_mibPrvKefPt8tdQ_nM_7jgw4Kx-rav4-4XEGb0la0d0mIj3OjsfNu/s1600-h/198-5+-+Finish+Line.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSezQOpXU1VGBPPpvm61TuREBUHcJbq4lU4RDIKi_XE1_0RvPYgquYJGPU3I5RUU4q8oxdGUoXBH_0Ks5G5OQC4A_mibPrvKefPt8tdQ_nM_7jgw4Kx-rav4-4XEGb0la0d0mIj3OjsfNu/s400/198-5+-+Finish+Line.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257373542807343874" border="0" /></a><br />Crossing the finish<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBK89VBuyIwdZ6VS1BbF4ami2ewDUvdAMniH5R3BYM9AoX7VAnROLOkw09IQfoRFfnY_log9QlGPKIb1f5LY4mOMLerlje6x-XTPp9haiuEzgJixKmDtSomz5pQLci6mBflNwNEBH3YlNH/s1600-h/198-5+-+Finish+Line.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBK89VBuyIwdZ6VS1BbF4ami2ewDUvdAMniH5R3BYM9AoX7VAnROLOkw09IQfoRFfnY_log9QlGPKIb1f5LY4mOMLerlje6x-XTPp9haiuEzgJixKmDtSomz5pQLci6mBflNwNEBH3YlNH/s400/198-5+-+Finish+Line.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257373301925710322" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBQ0m8KVT_r9fX4gvEvWutHAyLvS3FKAhKRwS9Jmo_bDLuLvyVMxlhOpZGDGjW1JV1nvpPFWNAU0b7orvfXtKQdCII1xuY4iUSBZoRk7suhOxEodv7Sq5LZvXc_bV_FEh8tPj-L_yt5BFW/s1600-h/198-6+-+My+Diploma.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBQ0m8KVT_r9fX4gvEvWutHAyLvS3FKAhKRwS9Jmo_bDLuLvyVMxlhOpZGDGjW1JV1nvpPFWNAU0b7orvfXtKQdCII1xuY4iUSBZoRk7suhOxEodv7Sq5LZvXc_bV_FEh8tPj-L_yt5BFW/s400/198-6+-+My+Diploma.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257373298763845106" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiOFxNxfq8XCv5g5XkI1n9143QgLMBlj2a_Etsf9UZVSAZdwsEyXQw_lB-sgXF7NQA4p_1eL0NPFO18nTyjvOkmI9-Po3vYCnkWDNUzBZDJ4jO80cGHZvxv4QHlEVV39POqBba1EzD-SYO/s1600-h/198-7+-+Desert+N+Peru.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiOFxNxfq8XCv5g5XkI1n9143QgLMBlj2a_Etsf9UZVSAZdwsEyXQw_lB-sgXF7NQA4p_1eL0NPFO18nTyjvOkmI9-Po3vYCnkWDNUzBZDJ4jO80cGHZvxv4QHlEVV39POqBba1EzD-SYO/s400/198-7+-+Desert+N+Peru.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257373301034861938" border="0" /></a><br />Dunes of N. Peru (from a bus window)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwgIy8Apo7TQpodF2kiSHGFWtCqXY2WcsMJjNOk-eR6C7qyw7jbWkYsQScCW6b4TedF5jLiR270d4PJwnonunWy0ga0r7RKHFoX95aYJ6NJhsp6ORA-RfcRmWJwghxSxjP3mULfVb3dg89/s1600-h/199-1+Coming+into+Guayaquil.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwgIy8Apo7TQpodF2kiSHGFWtCqXY2WcsMJjNOk-eR6C7qyw7jbWkYsQScCW6b4TedF5jLiR270d4PJwnonunWy0ga0r7RKHFoX95aYJ6NJhsp6ORA-RfcRmWJwghxSxjP3mULfVb3dg89/s400/199-1+Coming+into+Guayaquil.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257373305171308866" border="0" /></a><br />Entering Guayaquil - day 199<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7VAYpxGHFnRyhRLYaFG3sDHuwOXjPRHS1rrl_w7LShfYpa6n-T9IFsdgcL5wGn19D_w74LtDVWPYc6A_ETgsbUGQu_INnpI4wCJu3AQ58gWrI4FrRu8MJGGJU-KEV0Wby4ImlSJMPMKRK/s1600-h/200-1+-+Downtown+Guayaquil.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7VAYpxGHFnRyhRLYaFG3sDHuwOXjPRHS1rrl_w7LShfYpa6n-T9IFsdgcL5wGn19D_w74LtDVWPYc6A_ETgsbUGQu_INnpI4wCJu3AQ58gWrI4FrRu8MJGGJU-KEV0Wby4ImlSJMPMKRK/s400/200-1+-+Downtown+Guayaquil.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257373307965809154" border="0" /></a><br />The Iguana Garden - Day 200<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQDhxU6RDlnkf5eZ2MQn7Pd15DA_fd5m580MYxnp3t_k8LxzgHXqrsfZ6qhXxDNFgr8TwIVy8pqTrUe5-K_3mefOdzq2d5Al1O2xAuDLoRckmUU745Im28ioi3YV9kD5kQmm-wfd00HlsG/s1600-h/200-2+-+Main+Square.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQDhxU6RDlnkf5eZ2MQn7Pd15DA_fd5m580MYxnp3t_k8LxzgHXqrsfZ6qhXxDNFgr8TwIVy8pqTrUe5-K_3mefOdzq2d5Al1O2xAuDLoRckmUU745Im28ioi3YV9kD5kQmm-wfd00HlsG/s400/200-2+-+Main+Square.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257372739696157938" border="0" /></a><br />Central square in Guayaquil<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2lKSE3pXLbJ3hM819sRfqP6VRwFIrzCGtDkE0-d2yIMuWKj0TFS0sCHqHN8p1cW_EhWeKbFLGi5ZQAIK6I0otwZxYe2OtoyfhwF-iCHwmjARnvUGJlwUSRtKucO_xhoKY6r0EYGY91-Zo/s1600-h/200-3+-+From+the+Lighthouse.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2lKSE3pXLbJ3hM819sRfqP6VRwFIrzCGtDkE0-d2yIMuWKj0TFS0sCHqHN8p1cW_EhWeKbFLGi5ZQAIK6I0otwZxYe2OtoyfhwF-iCHwmjARnvUGJlwUSRtKucO_xhoKY6r0EYGY91-Zo/s400/200-3+-+From+the+Lighthouse.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257372737376880978" border="0" /></a><br />View from the lighthouse hill<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3G088WqAthb1MNSsafD2U80xtxJFH01ygJaLwxvfSNB775wtbkeUji16xqECmgLLe3KMUxpe0jau6hR_-YahuX8k7T_PEGrb7OQlAmIENFPhanE1tHsAR4vJMyx8oCgCzPTJG835XBLH0/s1600-h/200-4+-+Looking+Up.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3G088WqAthb1MNSsafD2U80xtxJFH01ygJaLwxvfSNB775wtbkeUji16xqECmgLLe3KMUxpe0jau6hR_-YahuX8k7T_PEGrb7OQlAmIENFPhanE1tHsAR4vJMyx8oCgCzPTJG835XBLH0/s400/200-4+-+Looking+Up.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257372744095170866" border="0" /></a><br />The lighthouse hill from the modern art museum<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6_jC1pevnHrPkS083C2nk5ScItAzFwkMGBgiqivRNqGI7ti-CYspkViCr5xWSBcpbP4OTuTrn3jcW7rd-woAAIdDurc36Na9Vl40WhTzSR9A7gRkefd-2jzYhtNvRpyowJunAqmbgSMGz/s1600-h/201-1+At+the+Historic+Garden.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6_jC1pevnHrPkS083C2nk5ScItAzFwkMGBgiqivRNqGI7ti-CYspkViCr5xWSBcpbP4OTuTrn3jcW7rd-woAAIdDurc36Na9Vl40WhTzSR9A7gRkefd-2jzYhtNvRpyowJunAqmbgSMGz/s400/201-1+At+the+Historic+Garden.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257372741164591906" border="0" /></a><br />Local inhabitant at the zoo/historical park (day 201)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDBVjbj2236xuf_O6OjdaTGtsSSQ9CKKsYV2tArGMUHc2s4ZUk_s3zb1uBFABXCn6OBnRPnV-1ID8d6i5UTR3RIQMdWl8f1PrPVBTERPLP7s3sLxoWSZAFSmHbAy41pYNcES5sfIvSzQAp/s1600-h/201-2+Historic+Park+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDBVjbj2236xuf_O6OjdaTGtsSSQ9CKKsYV2tArGMUHc2s4ZUk_s3zb1uBFABXCn6OBnRPnV-1ID8d6i5UTR3RIQMdWl8f1PrPVBTERPLP7s3sLxoWSZAFSmHbAy41pYNcES5sfIvSzQAp/s400/201-2+Historic+Park+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257372743121266834" border="0" /></a><br />Historical park Guayaquil<br /><pre wrap="">Day 197 - THE END<br /><br />Well, almost, just need to get to Trujillo first.<br /><br />So 5am rolls around and I'm really not looking forward to getting up and is that rain I hear. Well, that would be the coastal fog - amazing how desolate the vegetation is despite all this humidity in the air. Well, no point waiting around, pack everything in - no cereal left so breakfast is a big hot drink of all the various powders I still have left. And I actually manage to break camp and be on my bike by around 6:45. Of course my rear is nearly flat but only 100km to go - I'll just pump that up again.<br /><br />The road stays nice and smooth and pretty level. I average around 16km/h on the remaining 23km or so of gravel and then IÂ finally hit the PanAm - Peru 1 - the main, only, coastal road. Well, not much of a coast - from here it's mostly desolation as far as the eye can see - grey, beige, rocks and sand. Not very pretty, but I've got a tailwind and I'm almost done with this trip.<br /><br />The scenery does pick up here and there - some amazingly big sand dunes dominate over various irrigated fields and big sand lots. There are a few towns along the way, but mostly I just fly and stop now and then to pump up my back tire again. I do think I came out ahead in the deal. I also oiled my oilless pump - works much better now. Should have tried this months ago, but today I figure I can experiment, nothing left to lose.<br /><br />Speeds are really sweet until about 40km from Trujillo when the dunes pick up and become pretty darn big. The perspective makes it difficult to gauge but my speeds and altimeter tell me I'm going up around 150m and down again, up and down, about 3 times in all and then Trujillo is in sight. More or less. It's pretty hazy and sprawled, but it is definitely here and at the end of a long and somewhat dangerous downhill.<br /><br />Among the many things failing are my brakes. Just 10 more km, but I'm glad I don't need to make any emergency maneuvers or I'd be kissing some truck or bus that often like to pass and stop right in front of me, downhill or not. And at 50km/h on the final 200m descent, it wouldn't be pretty.<br /><br />Well, survived that. Time to inflate the rear again and head into town. Another drawn-out urban affair, but within 20min or so I'm into the city - not too bad - still not 1pm.<br /><br />I find Casa de Ciclistas pretty quickly. Don't know what to expect - in the end it's a house front with a small painting and a banner. I was hoping for a store, but fortunately someone answers after IÂ try all the doorbells.<br /><br />Casa de Ciclistas is something of a legend. Most through-cyclists make the pilgrimage here on there trip through Peru. Luchos has been hosting tourers for over 20 years now! And I'm not alone - Manuela from Switzerland and Eric from San Francisco are both here. Eric is doing the whole hog - 13months into his epic from Alaska and 6 or so to go. Manuela was planning for more but a family emergency is calling her back after 6 weeks.<br /><br />Basically, this place is a rest stop for touring cyclists dreamed up by Lucho - a Trujillo resident who loves the sport. He opened his house and has hosted thousands of cyclists over the years. Some stay for a day, others for months at a time. I'm in the less than a day category at this point, but I want to say "Hi" at least, and disassemble and donate any parts he can use and I don't need to carry - like the hundred-odd spokes I've been accumulating since Puerto Montt when my wheel problems started.<br /><br />But it's a Saturday and Lucho is giving a talk at his daughter's school. And I basically walk in, get a key put in my hand, and everyone else is leaving. Well, lunch, buy a bag at the market next door for wrapping what's left of my bike, and start work - dismantling the steed. My Schwinn is being torn down to the only stuff I want to keep - probably lose about 5kg in the process and get the size down a lot. With that and losing all my food I'm down to a size I can just about carry around.<br /><br />Well, it's a drawn out process. Today is one of those days where things mostly go well. Early start, find Casa, discover it's really close to most of the bus operators, buy the bags at the market 100m away, and go ticket shopping. Then IÂ find out no seat is available until Monday night. Not good. They're the only operator in town heading for Ecuador, except they're not so I keep shopping and 4 agencies later find one that can sell me a combined ticket to Guayaquil via Piura leaving tomorrow at 1:30 - much better. And $25 cheaper as well.<br /><br />And then it's back to working on the bike. I actually really enjoy doing this, despite the fact that when done I won't have a bike, but hopefully it will survive the journey and return to me in Chicago in a few weeks (as I write this I have some doubts, the bags were perhaps not such a great idea, but I like to experiment).<br /><br />Dinnertime comes and I'm starving. And 2 more Americans have arrived - Randy and Nancy the hobo-cyclists - 26 months into their epic which included a 4-month break to deal with whooping cough in Guatemala.<br /><br />We head to Roky's - where I finally meet the man in person. Lucho is a busy guy - tonight he's playing in a band at what first appears to be a kind of McDonalds. It is a well-lit, clean, Peruvian chain restaurant. But it also includes a bar and stage and lights and lot's of people celebrating a birthday with the obligatory roving mariachi band playing that same tune over and over again. Dinner is good and the music is too, although way too loud for any conversation.<br /><br />I find out about tomorrow's activities and eat well, but it's now after 11 and I'll still be working on disassembly and packing 6 hours later. Not much sleep. But there's always tomorrow's bus.<br /><br />I do get some time to talk to Lucho, he keeps really busy but it's not an easy life here. Getting and maintaining decent bikes for the kids to use is pretty much full-time, he's up with me til past 2 truing rims and patching flats. And this isn't his job, he has many including musician and electric technician. Jack-of-all-trades is pretty much a necessity here. His wife also makes and sells empanadas and chocolate cake on the street and boy are the empanadas good.<br /><br />Days 198-199<br />Day 198 - continued - to bus somewhere between Piura and border w/ Ecuador<br /><br />Well, first day without the Schwinn. It's in the bag now, I finish taping it up this morning and pray things are more or less in order when I get back to Chicago. We'll see. In the meantime today Lucho has organized a little street race for local kids.<br /><br /><br />The scene is rather chaotic - in many ways Lucho reminds me of, well, who knows, maybe me a few years from now in a possible future, I even like the band idea though I've never played in one. I suspect if I ever have a similar operation the bike store would be a lot more cluttered. Things are getting thrown together at the last minute but you can tell he's done this before. Kids are running back to the house to get some banners/flags, the sound system gets setup, the police show up (they're here to help not because someone called them) he tries to drag me in as well except my Spanish isn't good enough and somebody else gets the job first. Reminds me of the chaos of cooking Thanksgiving meals for fellow students back in Bristol.<br /><br />Anyway, things start a bit late so I won't be around when it finishes, but I get to see the races and even get a certificate of my own. If I ever have a real office I think I'll put it on the wall somewhere instead of a diploma.<br /><br />So 12:30 rolls around and I need to get going - bike back to the Casa, hoist all my belongings, and slowly make my way to the bus station 3 blocks away. It's slow going but I still have plenty of time for my bus.<br /><br />Well, another week has gone by as I enter these words - currently on the deck of a first-class, 7-month old catamaran floating in the Pacific heading west towards San Cristobal in the Galapagos archipelago. We're about to hit exactly 90W (and 0deg, 40min S) which means I'm about 5075km due south of the little geographical (not geological like the sign says) "center of the western and northern hemisphere" marker a few km from Wausau where I used to live. But back to last week.<br /><br />The bus station is a bit too crowded to move comfortably with a very oversized, 25kg bag, but somehow I drag it through and get it checked onto the bus and finally, finally get to relax. A strange feeling - haven't had it too often in the past month or so but I could get used to this, at least for a few days.<br /><br />The ride lifts my spirits somewhat - northern, near-coastal Peru isn't exactly full of highlights - mostly a desert landscape with frequent, irrigated agriculture and dry, hazy, dusty mountains further eastwards/inland. In other words, I'm not too disappointed about ending the trip in Trujillo, even if a largely flat road with frequent tailwinds would have awaited me.<br /><br />Piura is quite a big city but nighttime at one of the half-dozen, clustered bus stations is probably not the best time and place to lauch a city tour with all my electronic gear in tow. I do manage to find an internet cafe, a chinese restaurant, a few mini-markets, and a corner full of hookers. I make use of 3 of these.<br /><br />And at 10:30 it's time to start the first and only international bus ride of the trip.<br />Day 199-<br />Definitely not a trip highlight. Crossing into Ecuador between 2 and 5 am involves a lot of getting off the bus, filling out forms, waiting in line, and repeating several times. Well, the 3rd time was just an extra police passport checkpoint - I suppose in case the other 2 stops had overlooked something. Strangely, they're never interested in any of our luggage for which I am eternally grateful, having used a full roll of packing tape to seal my bike.<br /><br />Then it's back to sleep and eventually to Guayaquil. Not the most pictureque place in the world but I've seen worse.<br /><br />Well, I think this pretty much wraps up part 2 of the trip. The biking is definitely over - yesterday's brief trip to the race on a borrowed Cannondale is the last I'll set foot on a bike in S. America for the foreseeable future. I'll try to keep the mundane details of each day down from here on.<br /><br />Part 3 - Post Cycling<br />Well, day 199 is the transition from wrapping up the bike trip and flying home to hopefully sneaking in a sedate Galapagos trip. I get off the bus and make for the first phone booth I can find. Five or six calls later I have a pretty good idea that my choices will be limited to say the least. I decide to head for Dreamkapture hostal as they say I can leave my bags their while I figure out what next.<br /><br />In the end I do find a last minute trip to Galapagos so this trip is extended for another week. Ends up quite a bit more expensive than hoped for - but oh well, I'm not in Ecuador all that often and am happy to be able to get a trip in at all. It's currently high season - so if you're thinking of this you may want to plan ahead - the next person looking for a trip had no openings for about a week.<br /><br />At least the hostal throws in a free night for all booked trips. And they even include breakfast - pretty decent place overall - internet (no wifi), small book-exchange.<br /><br />My trip isn't for a few days so lets explore Guayaquil shall we...<br /><br />Days 200/201<br />Ecuador is no Peru or Bolivia. It's like a richer and much more paranoid neighbor. If America's economy really tanks I think Ecuador may be our future - they already use our currency, plenty of poor and really poor folks around, and everything is kinda American - lots and lots of cars - many with little fish decals - Guayaquil could pass for a rougher neighborhood of LA. Pretty much every business either has an armed gaurd or a heavy steel grate. The hamburger joint down the street servers food through a grate but even that isn't secure enough - to pay you talk and hand over the money through a missing brick in the wall to another room. I wonder if you held up the cook if the guy behind the register would hand over the money anyway.<br /><br />I have to pay for the trip in cash - and am somewhat apprehensive about strolling around after withdrawing $800 or so at a time - the hostal strongly advises to take a taxi which seems ridiculous considering it's about 4 blocks [note - if making larger withdrawals, you may want to investigate bank fees here - even though Ecuador uses US-Dollars, I still had foreign exchange fees tacked on to both my credit card and ATM withdrawals - still love my StateFarmBank account and not my ING account].<br /><br />I decide to head for downtown with a few folks from the hostal - there's the Iguana park and Malecon 2000 - the refurbished walk along the river which houses everything from the local IMAX to the modern art museum (free admission). Nice enough place to while away a day or two. The view from the lighthouse hill is pretty decent (although all my time here is fairly hazy), and there's plenty of "Panama" hats (which the locals point out originated in Ecuador) and other handicrafts at the downtown artisan market. Food is somewhat more varied than Peru or Bolivia - still lots of meat, but also more international fare - the local mall even has a middle-eastern stall. The highlight of the day is taking a local bus back to the hostal. This will be an adventure as I'm not exactly sure where to get off and it's now night, plus the bus gets insanely crowded but I am able to communicate enough to the driver and he lets me off at the right spot.<br /><br />Day 201 is another exploration - head for the historical park on local transport again. Definitely worth checking out if you have a day to explore. It consists of a small kind of zoo, a historical district (where several old downtown buildings were actually moved across the river into this park), and a recreated farm/plantation. Ask for guides for the different sections - they're floating around and some speak fluent English.<br /><br />Well, that about does it for this week - the Galapagos is in a blog entry of its very own...<br /></pre>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-78292604418775167452008-09-26T19:49:00.000-07:002008-09-26T21:58:20.573-07:00Week 28 - Junin Huaraz and beyond<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQtJml3yEJHD83i11Toc8BjB_GMAMFyN3ks1FBA4VIIh8A_tkC5UvIKKRfWRETPdZ5W4YWSb5wCCivwDQx2gqnrZ_ZaA0TXLt_7H07dri8RsYuRPpzANI1UX3zdboViKE7vUm3lSJw2LOQ/s1600-h/190-1+Carhuamayo+Scuplture.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQtJml3yEJHD83i11Toc8BjB_GMAMFyN3ks1FBA4VIIh8A_tkC5UvIKKRfWRETPdZ5W4YWSb5wCCivwDQx2gqnrZ_ZaA0TXLt_7H07dri8RsYuRPpzANI1UX3zdboViKE7vUm3lSJw2LOQ/s400/190-1+Carhuamayo+Scuplture.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250554976117473090" border="0" /></a><br />Not sure what this sculpture in Carhuamayo is, funky though - day 190<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1MMaRurSiNdssF9tkAq63H5DwMNcbFh04EjVW2xI4miCYF1OC01oWbD3NJj1g04nsrAzWQb7HgbPuUdl-ePMTkFF24yBC-2B9VKG1Mdt8lvYUQTQYTKom4o1oMfCm7h9ZPiQqrjONt-Pt/s1600-h/190-2+Cerro+de+Pasco.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1MMaRurSiNdssF9tkAq63H5DwMNcbFh04EjVW2xI4miCYF1OC01oWbD3NJj1g04nsrAzWQb7HgbPuUdl-ePMTkFF24yBC-2B9VKG1Mdt8lvYUQTQYTKom4o1oMfCm7h9ZPiQqrjONt-Pt/s400/190-2+Cerro+de+Pasco.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250554976941604418" border="0" /></a><br />Welcome to the Altiplano, central Peru style - this is the split near Cerro de Pasco - right is downhill to Huanuco<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgg0GSomlJWkxpmvB45LqUDe97B4OpsK2wxtdI8hPJe1v06RSnPlb9GSOrLYHoP1byrSdhu3D7ZcAhSGpz1MG1m640-mHDnkZ6UbJp8PTkbD99JZr5NOc7Xswebq5iV4o-DdkCyndnd6oQ/s1600-h/190-3+Heading+for+Huanuco.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgg0GSomlJWkxpmvB45LqUDe97B4OpsK2wxtdI8hPJe1v06RSnPlb9GSOrLYHoP1byrSdhu3D7ZcAhSGpz1MG1m640-mHDnkZ6UbJp8PTkbD99JZr5NOc7Xswebq5iV4o-DdkCyndnd6oQ/s400/190-3+Heading+for+Huanuco.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250553961424084306" border="0" /></a><br />Heading to Huanuco<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZ3Y6H_DtF9gUaDocO_6UCpRuO86ENXMDXZM9b0kAM54Zd0pTz9qNpAsw3Ase7aOt4d96BG47giYFKtDZXSBtv6A1q-jCMmiV5488ByU9xrf7R7cH2s4n5x7-XqFc24FRrbYx3g0c7MF_/s1600-h/191-1+Huanuco.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZ3Y6H_DtF9gUaDocO_6UCpRuO86ENXMDXZM9b0kAM54Zd0pTz9qNpAsw3Ase7aOt4d96BG47giYFKtDZXSBtv6A1q-jCMmiV5488ByU9xrf7R7cH2s4n5x7-XqFc24FRrbYx3g0c7MF_/s400/191-1+Huanuco.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250553962177420834" border="0" /></a><br />Actually, an old bridge - now Hwy 3 into Huanuco - and the end of pavement for a few days (191)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijvh6hJ4vv594Peq-XC2_CpvFK6kr7ApHFzXZsK_PRwLMLFXHB2qycXaHQ6cLcabLDUNwUz0Atl1XoDpjP3wE_ejrdn1l5xjQ7xLvxQfkUJJ5WJ9isrd721cNprtFpSgK-RCsoXSbEoBA8/s1600-h/191-2+and+then+the+road+gets+worse.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijvh6hJ4vv594Peq-XC2_CpvFK6kr7ApHFzXZsK_PRwLMLFXHB2qycXaHQ6cLcabLDUNwUz0Atl1XoDpjP3wE_ejrdn1l5xjQ7xLvxQfkUJJ5WJ9isrd721cNprtFpSgK-RCsoXSbEoBA8/s400/191-2+and+then+the+road+gets+worse.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250553965273851986" border="0" /></a><br />Yeah, this is the same road about 300m later<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqWI7s-80jW72q3_JzqInoG4psl9LH0_86LheW7uV7dxVAYyLUgUwKT3NCxjlffasd39DThTEQJL2_JvovABdoWaiSTTH4WPjzPCrJbqzh0v0Q-gLhyphenhyphenN6dqAW-dRjUcnr1gEJEKYKm9qld/s1600-h/191-3+Corona+del+Inca.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqWI7s-80jW72q3_JzqInoG4psl9LH0_86LheW7uV7dxVAYyLUgUwKT3NCxjlffasd39DThTEQJL2_JvovABdoWaiSTTH4WPjzPCrJbqzh0v0Q-gLhyphenhyphenN6dqAW-dRjUcnr1gEJEKYKm9qld/s400/191-3+Corona+del+Inca.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250553967885211042" border="0" /></a><br />Corona del Inca - crown of the Incas - day 192<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-WoPww_StuYZiUVSeYmjiRS2KiXitA7kC4ZL4JCbrURzcmnXCKP2-dn2vKkXHSBSZCbcqdtl9hPWYNMydni14okKawRS7sMRSy2JEA02PQA9_blNyWZTRZ2TBsZB1xjLaJZ0o92-XFA0G/s1600-h/191-4+Corn.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-WoPww_StuYZiUVSeYmjiRS2KiXitA7kC4ZL4JCbrURzcmnXCKP2-dn2vKkXHSBSZCbcqdtl9hPWYNMydni14okKawRS7sMRSy2JEA02PQA9_blNyWZTRZ2TBsZB1xjLaJZ0o92-XFA0G/s400/191-4+Corn.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250553965135724162" border="0" /></a><br />Corn<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLvurMke93QaY0oAeuFuEUU5g7vce4rjpJQrkHClNQmG5lSagnp1uls2jyDkVPdqWUIlE0QElO0g-GaHiw1nyB6zZLaUWT6-Iz2_taNu0plTVCAFV_PrE-r-E9YpvIINGjpA_6ELCFL8Ge/s1600-h/191-5+-+neat+weather.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLvurMke93QaY0oAeuFuEUU5g7vce4rjpJQrkHClNQmG5lSagnp1uls2jyDkVPdqWUIlE0QElO0g-GaHiw1nyB6zZLaUWT6-Iz2_taNu0plTVCAFV_PrE-r-E9YpvIINGjpA_6ELCFL8Ge/s400/191-5+-+neat+weather.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250552640609396690" border="0" /></a><br />Just liked these clouds - it's raining up there but not down here<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrG41DNvfM1Sx-ox-B0_3x5qR0GxSLeWu6zti-tKTUwlZJcMh_6O3VMTw9q5kmBapTFxkZxVDwxDxPf-z7FqGFwpuvS_LtnNNyCMp8F-FZu9TPunLwbSGHFdtry6pyK0tJmbx6al4CbF8b/s1600-h/192-0+-+early+Pachas+morning.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrG41DNvfM1Sx-ox-B0_3x5qR0GxSLeWu6zti-tKTUwlZJcMh_6O3VMTw9q5kmBapTFxkZxVDwxDxPf-z7FqGFwpuvS_LtnNNyCMp8F-FZu9TPunLwbSGHFdtry6pyK0tJmbx6al4CbF8b/s400/192-0+-+early+Pachas+morning.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250552638289327186" border="0" /></a><br />Neat morning shot out the rear window of this little hostal in Pachas (193)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_ryzdwFT3Rdjd6fn24uftjnrzNPs5hjOLmAawkBCQMQ-JP3Scvnhoe7ORgkY8m8gqSN3ZkiNDEaxleUiPZbs__Z2Em7525_J_00Ty_4DIQRYC_PPEGZsy6foy6GZkh1isXbLqw4UDBlNc/s1600-h/192-1+-+Sticks+to+your+ribs.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_ryzdwFT3Rdjd6fn24uftjnrzNPs5hjOLmAawkBCQMQ-JP3Scvnhoe7ORgkY8m8gqSN3ZkiNDEaxleUiPZbs__Z2Em7525_J_00Ty_4DIQRYC_PPEGZsy6foy6GZkh1isXbLqw4UDBlNc/s400/192-1+-+Sticks+to+your+ribs.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250552642715373426" border="0" /></a><br />Ahhh - arteries, commence clogging - just a awesome breakfast in Pachas - probably my favorite of the trip (I mean real steak, eggs, and potatoes).<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVpPkaQDUJ6WxDr4g6tKv3kD_sIi_aK_kJXTEgBlS6ZZwNWS8NuXgyw6JIStXrA2XeJagCXlmprCnxsY-twucR3K_4xt3bofuFmX9CkfGmtWD3mdNstqj3H5R27pZhlKDOB58wQKRo4FS/s1600-h/192-2+-+Morning+in+Pachas.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVpPkaQDUJ6WxDr4g6tKv3kD_sIi_aK_kJXTEgBlS6ZZwNWS8NuXgyw6JIStXrA2XeJagCXlmprCnxsY-twucR3K_4xt3bofuFmX9CkfGmtWD3mdNstqj3H5R27pZhlKDOB58wQKRo4FS/s400/192-2+-+Morning+in+Pachas.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250552644794843682" border="0" /></a><br />Pachas in the early morning light<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0DLGC4Hia6CeGPVpkq9VCSg9d1xl5Qpg7wyduMNmjeWwi0ORLuiFGMZcymF-huKbEh07NSA-F5XhAPJTokIIOiNrkdisJcd1l5KPoIb0j9XNJrWn7AIitCelH_fFzgpxALkEsq6ilT3I3/s1600-h/192-3+hard+agriculture.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0DLGC4Hia6CeGPVpkq9VCSg9d1xl5Qpg7wyduMNmjeWwi0ORLuiFGMZcymF-huKbEh07NSA-F5XhAPJTokIIOiNrkdisJcd1l5KPoIb0j9XNJrWn7AIitCelH_fFzgpxALkEsq6ilT3I3/s400/192-3+hard+agriculture.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250552643145259810" border="0" /></a><br />Labor intensive farming<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-B6IpnxuutAUmNc9g3rmKmoQFri7KP5GyqD3vBDWXt7-Ux5Q4aghOhdPtKRB_aOONQhC1EiolWag67bHTUQASaFrZS483CUZkmT1tqIcr5y4Z4wRgOHh3FZTWEhFdtoGNV535BbD8wQC/s1600-h/192-4+colorful+falls.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-B6IpnxuutAUmNc9g3rmKmoQFri7KP5GyqD3vBDWXt7-Ux5Q4aghOhdPtKRB_aOONQhC1EiolWag67bHTUQASaFrZS483CUZkmT1tqIcr5y4Z4wRgOHh3FZTWEhFdtoGNV535BbD8wQC/s400/192-4+colorful+falls.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250546513296963426" border="0" /></a><br />Neat Waterfall<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI40TmaWIjJ8ZmZa3JzSuC2_DVfpfv9gBSyQLjr-dHLkBqIRjhfUO5OwRdwX9ZcVOfG0fAl2bKjTuDdtpRRZnpmiD09dXG5sl9fc0Lu1HAJ1r86x93-2BFRbFDkoMWHTWdI9sn4ZETBFz6/s1600-h/192-5+final+final+high+pass+starts.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI40TmaWIjJ8ZmZa3JzSuC2_DVfpfv9gBSyQLjr-dHLkBqIRjhfUO5OwRdwX9ZcVOfG0fAl2bKjTuDdtpRRZnpmiD09dXG5sl9fc0Lu1HAJ1r86x93-2BFRbFDkoMWHTWdI9sn4ZETBFz6/s400/192-5+final+final+high+pass+starts.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250546519396574834" border="0" /></a><br />Heading up the final final pass - mining road cuts across this picture<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFNWwMAQoncrTg5Mdqp2b873UIvjDosnrfHedcjHMdamPBlR5FODWt3PPsZVoEEVG8bTxkHxHVvVJBixFMpP6zFhlNGbnClNVuet2ZdQ1PdVOBGr7g1Ulck6DmMYtO26Am5IXJ70NmQ5qF/s1600-h/192-6+-+cool+mountains.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFNWwMAQoncrTg5Mdqp2b873UIvjDosnrfHedcjHMdamPBlR5FODWt3PPsZVoEEVG8bTxkHxHVvVJBixFMpP6zFhlNGbnClNVuet2ZdQ1PdVOBGr7g1Ulck6DmMYtO26Am5IXJ70NmQ5qF/s400/192-6+-+cool+mountains.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250546518631103074" border="0" /></a><br />Neat mountain ridge<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2nFTE2IV1dOd3uWWZUsqSCbCedAgf0e6UVkrfByQDUEbmVUeYUOy8ATHe1BkyHJm4O6aLMF2czQD961dG0kcMAa7NzmegXpC5zXIxIGRgbPBqzAtlAtpwG7_cefO1BXKOLVlxitu825C/s1600-h/192-7+Another+shot.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2nFTE2IV1dOd3uWWZUsqSCbCedAgf0e6UVkrfByQDUEbmVUeYUOy8ATHe1BkyHJm4O6aLMF2czQD961dG0kcMAa7NzmegXpC5zXIxIGRgbPBqzAtlAtpwG7_cefO1BXKOLVlxitu825C/s400/192-7+Another+shot.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250546517385238546" border="0" /></a><br />Ditto<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig46mQc8T5NjBCCdCeOtZ5dlcVpg188Wf5WRhrDEQNyjoj_7bkE_Jn1jMdBHsEoAeyH99MeEn4tr125VKVCw3EgEfhTbdNCI4HamZr7v6LDyHHPq_ZJqNW_PpzYZ-1nV8ljBbRbzFB8b70/s1600-h/192-8+Friend.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig46mQc8T5NjBCCdCeOtZ5dlcVpg188Wf5WRhrDEQNyjoj_7bkE_Jn1jMdBHsEoAeyH99MeEn4tr125VKVCw3EgEfhTbdNCI4HamZr7v6LDyHHPq_ZJqNW_PpzYZ-1nV8ljBbRbzFB8b70/s400/192-8+Friend.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250546519000328018" border="0" /></a><br />My Friend<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgghhZTCaRW_ABot01P9-cLhmgsp20-5b4ooBIZVnJkvSRgyDgx2Ot73nditK68tkHSW99pE8uYJ1iAPzJRGivsVhmGwksGNPzsJMCt70hQvCJjCCILaHRBZibdZv9l_sBLP_C9khyphenhyphenIhW6B/s1600-h/193-1+High+pass+morning.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgghhZTCaRW_ABot01P9-cLhmgsp20-5b4ooBIZVnJkvSRgyDgx2Ot73nditK68tkHSW99pE8uYJ1iAPzJRGivsVhmGwksGNPzsJMCt70hQvCJjCCILaHRBZibdZv9l_sBLP_C9khyphenhyphenIhW6B/s400/193-1+High+pass+morning.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250542475635422450" border="0" /></a><br />Morning around 4800m (194)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Zr96Cjc0snR76spa7kqcbZB2w1Jzjo8Bab_1uvWLFHp3DuTsHuNkBD0diVAvikL266X68zrhEssERXuDbvmqoMH3IYk_kqTZBas0oD_XWPeKtvI7g-yeX2TCHBuwbsKH4qCIWnGqFh-1/s1600-h/193-2+-+The+split.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Zr96Cjc0snR76spa7kqcbZB2w1Jzjo8Bab_1uvWLFHp3DuTsHuNkBD0diVAvikL266X68zrhEssERXuDbvmqoMH3IYk_kqTZBas0oD_XWPeKtvI7g-yeX2TCHBuwbsKH4qCIWnGqFh-1/s400/193-2+-+The+split.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250542478108635298" border="0" /></a><br />The critical junction - the left branch (I'm looking back, if coming from Union you turn right here) - left is one of the most amazing roads I've ever seen:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAIhe6Ign2t_v7WtyttYBeIo72702jcdCaltwUwz2d4ULl3PLSIgdvwyJR42T0YhYGoPMJNskKsCbNLAMABFo9jocDWaPjlJNmQxk7Q_8KnA1FCw_Yo3CUZgSFhh35GRXBjxZhKLJoEqFj/s1600-h/193-3+Moon+moutain+and+moon.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAIhe6Ign2t_v7WtyttYBeIo72702jcdCaltwUwz2d4ULl3PLSIgdvwyJR42T0YhYGoPMJNskKsCbNLAMABFo9jocDWaPjlJNmQxk7Q_8KnA1FCw_Yo3CUZgSFhh35GRXBjxZhKLJoEqFj/s400/193-3+Moon+moutain+and+moon.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250542480875132802" border="0" /></a><br />A Moonscape Mountain under a Moon<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFxTUutQ7J6t2-DtB4ZHp2k4VL3jXhIXU7tHOhZF8dqX0A322KyHymZkmR6RDoS4bpnL3ReCTk3_6OBipu3Xt8qVL6enesn-27JcvlpONfkIjucdladk04AKhOhpKHBZmg1E7n7x3yt3Qd/s1600-h/193-4+more+neat+high+road.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFxTUutQ7J6t2-DtB4ZHp2k4VL3jXhIXU7tHOhZF8dqX0A322KyHymZkmR6RDoS4bpnL3ReCTk3_6OBipu3Xt8qVL6enesn-27JcvlpONfkIjucdladk04AKhOhpKHBZmg1E7n7x3yt3Qd/s400/193-4+more+neat+high+road.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250542485740175714" border="0" /></a><br />Just amazing<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnqcV5kPBCy8vb_AiNFDun9iETt2tcnquzZbCXn8Px-TESqyVsDP8vbLYWshyA7WBKwSG4lDQFvbeONdoqjKQNd4I7mM0AYiBwizKr3kew2xVh4hJHZsf53pzCOupgu5b9vo_Kwyibj4Oc/s1600-h/193-5+This+is+a+high+road.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnqcV5kPBCy8vb_AiNFDun9iETt2tcnquzZbCXn8Px-TESqyVsDP8vbLYWshyA7WBKwSG4lDQFvbeONdoqjKQNd4I7mM0AYiBwizKr3kew2xVh4hJHZsf53pzCOupgu5b9vo_Kwyibj4Oc/s400/193-5+This+is+a+high+road.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250542485746194610" border="0" /></a><br />The closest road to an Alpine trail I've ever seen<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfowed2kFG10FQI6HLGo5h6BDctMQG188U6WwnC_43hD5xnV5jQnK2Ekiz9ctYgM1PXu337kHlk59eucA2qm5HuQXIkXZGYX7iLuQLrVKBCOtbfecPv64vw1QgbFxqDIsywyPNfb0axNSj/s1600-h/193-6+another+cool+shot.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfowed2kFG10FQI6HLGo5h6BDctMQG188U6WwnC_43hD5xnV5jQnK2Ekiz9ctYgM1PXu337kHlk59eucA2qm5HuQXIkXZGYX7iLuQLrVKBCOtbfecPv64vw1QgbFxqDIsywyPNfb0axNSj/s400/193-6+another+cool+shot.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250538068932014418" border="0" /></a><br />Heading down off the pass<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGBoM0jq4MCo_Szv3SDUrlkuiq-eYou1kJH8GomKph8lHF3d9oaS6nmXt_mvIKWSEm28Hor_v7RTWdzDqGgJgwEBLNFquAgstzy2wYRwV-OBLQti5Vdlf_8ztWcwbwljZeaSrYEYSw5zBx/s1600-h/193-7+Downhill+serpentine.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGBoM0jq4MCo_Szv3SDUrlkuiq-eYou1kJH8GomKph8lHF3d9oaS6nmXt_mvIKWSEm28Hor_v7RTWdzDqGgJgwEBLNFquAgstzy2wYRwV-OBLQti5Vdlf_8ztWcwbwljZeaSrYEYSw5zBx/s400/193-7+Downhill+serpentine.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250538072071790274" border="0" /></a><br />Gravel serpentine<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVEAfXntcI-H_XxLppq537oC5faeDGCFTb5FaHvelc-gqdobpyGUFL3bQ_ouSa45XEeiYixGfdvAkAbSoZHpUPtDprAo5B_Q5Hc754dmb6L4yBGd2NKJohKo5vbHWdLJDiNVucTP10Y9ao/s1600-h/193-8+Valley+shot.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVEAfXntcI-H_XxLppq537oC5faeDGCFTb5FaHvelc-gqdobpyGUFL3bQ_ouSa45XEeiYixGfdvAkAbSoZHpUPtDprAo5B_Q5Hc754dmb6L4yBGd2NKJohKo5vbHWdLJDiNVucTP10Y9ao/s400/193-8+Valley+shot.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250538068878812082" border="0" /></a><br />More Andes<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjbGhjq4lUPvkgUIBvQ7fbgvc12LN5PcW6GV5nnNOjzGM3oJCxRSnkVCMArn5wfi-DBC60cfytzGYM8NHFBVKabdbjFEje17-QLZP7eJPyjb4F3UFVeyNUTdQFgwlb48BHaMn_QGxow2du/s1600-h/193-9+100+year+flower.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjbGhjq4lUPvkgUIBvQ7fbgvc12LN5PcW6GV5nnNOjzGM3oJCxRSnkVCMArn5wfi-DBC60cfytzGYM8NHFBVKabdbjFEje17-QLZP7eJPyjb4F3UFVeyNUTdQFgwlb48BHaMn_QGxow2du/s400/193-9+100+year+flower.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250538072316516226" border="0" /></a><br />One of those 100year flower plants (or was it 10)?<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsObLRh3ngyHNrX00EAL00qwABHeG2aVPCimqZJsv9q8-M5u2keW3wQkXNzWSSV8iPLjhzb0hKgwjTpj9MbRFCv-3Lso912rWvte2UhRtTMKgBO05STQ1-eG3JlhHtJ4chv3gaJK1vC2I/s1600-h/193-10+gettin+there.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsObLRh3ngyHNrX00EAL00qwABHeG2aVPCimqZJsv9q8-M5u2keW3wQkXNzWSSV8iPLjhzb0hKgwjTpj9MbRFCv-3Lso912rWvte2UhRtTMKgBO05STQ1-eG3JlhHtJ4chv3gaJK1vC2I/s400/193-10+gettin+there.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250538073566206642" border="0" /></a><br />Just before Huaraz - down to "only" 3200m or so with 6000ers all around<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf-6NZZxsr1-penys8tYI05pvMiNF7yHfxi_pMYDC4bhday2pO3xBFahzyamAG5W0jgJkgyJyMy-Zzimx9nbAEjqNW0bffjx60hijy0OBj-5HzQhClWgHhehHy68vxRO9d0pulseHLgs_T/s1600-h/194-1+morning+in+Huaraz.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf-6NZZxsr1-penys8tYI05pvMiNF7yHfxi_pMYDC4bhday2pO3xBFahzyamAG5W0jgJkgyJyMy-Zzimx9nbAEjqNW0bffjx60hijy0OBj-5HzQhClWgHhehHy68vxRO9d0pulseHLgs_T/s400/194-1+morning+in+Huaraz.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250537197169530290" border="0" /></a><br />Morning at Carolines in Huaraz (day 195)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY1TVOYSVCD-CK_kOytIRJTlGajCN_UpoqsMqbmmqpjvLIrJRuldLzQ1vae4_S2Tg5Op3uddXshyWWO7IYHcvTBAIDQaveNEN8xtmHQ5LjUo0hv6A0WQCEbc2VX5043zxpk61LwVTCoUkN/s1600-h/194-2+Making+Bricks.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY1TVOYSVCD-CK_kOytIRJTlGajCN_UpoqsMqbmmqpjvLIrJRuldLzQ1vae4_S2Tg5Op3uddXshyWWO7IYHcvTBAIDQaveNEN8xtmHQ5LjUo0hv6A0WQCEbc2VX5043zxpk61LwVTCoUkN/s400/194-2+Making+Bricks.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250537196709520802" border="0" /></a><br />Brick making kiln<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ybbntJffwuTXyRaAgU-oCJXODfVtR6XhLfL3Yj0lUUiyl5V2KlsqGlcoWoDR2QPlyVcAfdjmBJar1Q3f2Gw9HNIWW9CsOe1ACl68XUnOMfzPVYQJKsai7W5NCS3OJzPIdBoo4sGIf2i9/s1600-h/194-3+Staircase+of+the+Gods.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ybbntJffwuTXyRaAgU-oCJXODfVtR6XhLfL3Yj0lUUiyl5V2KlsqGlcoWoDR2QPlyVcAfdjmBJar1Q3f2Gw9HNIWW9CsOe1ACl68XUnOMfzPVYQJKsai7W5NCS3OJzPIdBoo4sGIf2i9/s400/194-3+Staircase+of+the+Gods.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250537198890927058" border="0" /></a><br />Stairway of the Gods<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyz80XaE8kVPsYVlx2_z8Rf2yPDfLTnfK1OyTmr56SprjRVeri6scOHHOFbVDW25cw7-PHQWS9pMFfT49Q_vJdhMvPtxd8QT4-QPyc2q7n4h3dlYIyUnb-_YRn2BMhDmIYyoF4yZ07j0tM/s1600-h/194-4+Main+Street+and+Mountain.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyz80XaE8kVPsYVlx2_z8Rf2yPDfLTnfK1OyTmr56SprjRVeri6scOHHOFbVDW25cw7-PHQWS9pMFfT49Q_vJdhMvPtxd8QT4-QPyc2q7n4h3dlYIyUnb-_YRn2BMhDmIYyoF4yZ07j0tM/s400/194-4+Main+Street+and+Mountain.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250537201180184834" border="0" /></a><br />Main Street and Mountain<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidWtzfS9uGtvfu5fyNp9_g18dGnb8ug1wDK5z9LepGPQ91q6FI-Te198O232olxhW9O8l2NybVZDKzLo6rVgXlL6nwJiGPR8DmZTOQ5Pm8q6iXV9FR9aditL7TgSuuqjkzwlC-nWRPXspM/s1600-h/194-5+Entering+Canon+del+Pato.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidWtzfS9uGtvfu5fyNp9_g18dGnb8ug1wDK5z9LepGPQ91q6FI-Te198O232olxhW9O8l2NybVZDKzLo6rVgXlL6nwJiGPR8DmZTOQ5Pm8q6iXV9FR9aditL7TgSuuqjkzwlC-nWRPXspM/s400/194-5+Entering+Canon+del+Pato.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250537201729304834" border="0" /></a><br />Start of Canon del Pato<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtFMab_6keRVuOkyn0SuURy1fcb3zJXNuP6fEumZSP85yRT2FH1TJDSYyma36J0VZwQsFdhxPAfDPT4yPpEc1_SznUcimsMOndWORyKOwmU-DDZODKLxRdd0TIA3pcXGQyZjT1ddcPvaW/s1600-h/194-6+Canon+del+Pato+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtFMab_6keRVuOkyn0SuURy1fcb3zJXNuP6fEumZSP85yRT2FH1TJDSYyma36J0VZwQsFdhxPAfDPT4yPpEc1_SznUcimsMOndWORyKOwmU-DDZODKLxRdd0TIA3pcXGQyZjT1ddcPvaW/s400/194-6+Canon+del+Pato+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250536659498917106" border="0" /></a><br />More Pato<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcZqO1HUIpGQeWam1YjXHtfZWZAq5TDlSvfJz6n6qS2JE4TkGhMXAeqWD1QXAS0Sjh8NLnQdcU4SNxlCnUnH-9nfEsGOnF_Gglai2KtcASFIyoqQ4NwKky34MYwlMSZF1euH-imfNNqB5n/s1600-h/194-7+Canon+del+Pato+3.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcZqO1HUIpGQeWam1YjXHtfZWZAq5TDlSvfJz6n6qS2JE4TkGhMXAeqWD1QXAS0Sjh8NLnQdcU4SNxlCnUnH-9nfEsGOnF_Gglai2KtcASFIyoqQ4NwKky34MYwlMSZF1euH-imfNNqB5n/s400/194-7+Canon+del+Pato+3.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250536658272700002" border="0" /></a><br />Ditto<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikf5itlegyojtEODw1yswAwPIwNnIuGpTL1A9Pxj3T2qzjZWdcd_hQdHIYdFGugczAvwhIz6VfJgxfw2Hxy-FV13ih7D6tlEwEeVnN4rKFwo5lC4C2bcK6qXj_5bhKJszi7AWFGudTq1Yo/s1600-h/194-8+Canon+del+Pato+3.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikf5itlegyojtEODw1yswAwPIwNnIuGpTL1A9Pxj3T2qzjZWdcd_hQdHIYdFGugczAvwhIz6VfJgxfw2Hxy-FV13ih7D6tlEwEeVnN4rKFwo5lC4C2bcK6qXj_5bhKJszi7AWFGudTq1Yo/s400/194-8+Canon+del+Pato+3.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250536658440060930" border="0" /></a><br />Ditto - note the road tunnel about 2/3 up this shot<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihhnPVT-gqeaSPD_jMaiU_gqfpHyMj9CXU0qjkOFyYJbNHruA77gMX-KDhpvfG0buWEW2NwAk7TYxXPgHoKVUFXTmubmew1CG7f9CieEvYz2_MsTU706-JShA5CTRSdnwYXumGJePUx8Kk/s1600-h/194-9+Canon+del+Pato+4.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihhnPVT-gqeaSPD_jMaiU_gqfpHyMj9CXU0qjkOFyYJbNHruA77gMX-KDhpvfG0buWEW2NwAk7TYxXPgHoKVUFXTmubmew1CG7f9CieEvYz2_MsTU706-JShA5CTRSdnwYXumGJePUx8Kk/s400/194-9+Canon+del+Pato+4.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250536662894487874" border="0" /></a><br />Waterfall in Duck Canyon<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNldnzOKX9qQ4GDR0u9Lvf0hlb-WmZqtHCZv4E30feEOdtUrjtL9kLIIRG7oktnfsgdBzlbdvQIhi8kNIW2TcR4fB-sJ1eZOw4Vl24NUYAzgUBgCCAPTEPKcPlpn9ub4mvdI-1HUjmEiDG/s1600-h/195-1+Yet+another+tunnel.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNldnzOKX9qQ4GDR0u9Lvf0hlb-WmZqtHCZv4E30feEOdtUrjtL9kLIIRG7oktnfsgdBzlbdvQIhi8kNIW2TcR4fB-sJ1eZOw4Vl24NUYAzgUBgCCAPTEPKcPlpn9ub4mvdI-1HUjmEiDG/s400/195-1+Yet+another+tunnel.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250536663804470818" border="0" /></a><br />One of many rough tunnels on what I'll call the world's worst highway (day 196)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil2DAiISyM-nC22EbfA_sLiA_hSBv45APGJ2UNZvsKbVimV_JfqubICjPdnp4PoprsXs0Gk8RKvZSr7J1BxAPOtNHObkOwd2Nm16yhgEHje8GVv7-2cYDbGGKq2eMsnjarZlS8j5B5eifh/s1600-h/195-2+Hard+Road.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil2DAiISyM-nC22EbfA_sLiA_hSBv45APGJ2UNZvsKbVimV_JfqubICjPdnp4PoprsXs0Gk8RKvZSr7J1BxAPOtNHObkOwd2Nm16yhgEHje8GVv7-2cYDbGGKq2eMsnjarZlS8j5B5eifh/s400/195-2+Hard+Road.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250536297889324418" border="0" /></a><br />Bumpy but scenic<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRx1RVARSp1leOKSMxmHuz1i3TPVurk72veAgneRYMrIZk7bLI1eUc0jwH0i-svCMsckN2Chms0iZMp9a8N3mLcwRp65LAWfoSowA0je5tBuXXv-ztFsC0IKk4MDFbSNFpFHIcficqsY0L/s1600-h/195-3+Harder+Tunnel.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRx1RVARSp1leOKSMxmHuz1i3TPVurk72veAgneRYMrIZk7bLI1eUc0jwH0i-svCMsckN2Chms0iZMp9a8N3mLcwRp65LAWfoSowA0je5tBuXXv-ztFsC0IKk4MDFbSNFpFHIcficqsY0L/s400/195-3+Harder+Tunnel.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250536307119772002" border="0" /></a><br />An even tougher tunnel - plenty of lingering dust after one of these goes through - be sure to have a functioning headlight - some of these are long and may have curves<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0mpd0AhhtL-fmo_0uNFe7jLIAYC9Pf22ZI-efWmNTchGTPNCrrgROgm6tnFdZblTAO9BkrYggbwU3l7U3falfAnG8eQCXHu2KQGUV06wZ2qLsBqRa2xNEKMFqPYhrrSMWoJx_nuEgi4OL/s1600-h/195-4+Slow+road+to+Trujillo.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0mpd0AhhtL-fmo_0uNFe7jLIAYC9Pf22ZI-efWmNTchGTPNCrrgROgm6tnFdZblTAO9BkrYggbwU3l7U3falfAnG8eQCXHu2KQGUV06wZ2qLsBqRa2xNEKMFqPYhrrSMWoJx_nuEgi4OL/s400/195-4+Slow+road+to+Trujillo.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250536311699548802" border="0" /></a><br />Getting out of the mountains for the last time<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZ32oKg33XRXapksNk_NyYojs09WYTz216IgIxSaSlXR2-RttLQaLF5lyw75gbVT9AzgjgU3nbrb5QrCKXSZX59MZK8FsJHPUjCS7R106lJf9xQl2Ji5QuSVNswXIa1AtPrqdxwAy4n-a/s1600-h/195-5+Ditto.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZ32oKg33XRXapksNk_NyYojs09WYTz216IgIxSaSlXR2-RttLQaLF5lyw75gbVT9AzgjgU3nbrb5QrCKXSZX59MZK8FsJHPUjCS7R106lJf9xQl2Ji5QuSVNswXIa1AtPrqdxwAy4n-a/s400/195-5+Ditto.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250536314510860050" border="0" /></a><br />More canyon views<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXFZJCIlLYuU6JFjO4fdbCuWl7gkWHGkkzA_afMFcAeUCSviaGHLH6q8zLCaw7Ok2nli5RvuouWxMxyyQWMUHyHnQA1878l7A63oe1XdvegAOwnyjhaEzROhFCTG0kdG7ZLoNNrin9ZCop/s1600-h/195-6+All+Hail+the+Gods+of+Pavimiento.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXFZJCIlLYuU6JFjO4fdbCuWl7gkWHGkkzA_afMFcAeUCSviaGHLH6q8zLCaw7Ok2nli5RvuouWxMxyyQWMUHyHnQA1878l7A63oe1XdvegAOwnyjhaEzROhFCTG0kdG7ZLoNNrin9ZCop/s400/195-6+All+Hail+the+Gods+of+Pavimiento.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250536318929224290" border="0" /></a><br />All hail the Gods of Pavimento<br /><br />Day 190 - Huanuco<br />Well, yesterday blew another hole in my km-budget, so after no exciting trips to the bathroom in about 20 hours I decide today will be a marathon day to try to catch up a bit. Still a bit weak, but in theory I should have a nice long downhill.<br /><br />I first need to make it to Cerro de Pasco - Cerro meaning mountain of course, so town is perched near a 4400m pass (actually out of sight on the other side of a ridge, I bypass it). The first 30km or so are along lago Junin, more or less rolling hills and a very alti-plano landscape - even the vicunas have returned (or are they guanacos - it's been awhile). Then the road starts to climb again - and even without any serious grades, in my current condition and at this altitude I notice the climb. But it doesn't last too long (the lake is already 4100m), so by around 2pm I'm at the pass and have covered my first 60km. Only 120 to go.<br /><br />They will drag on awhile. But the descent is quite scenic - even if frequent, moderately strong headwinds keep me on my toes and slower than I'd like to be. This seems to be the valley of laundry - all along folks have blankets and jackets lying in the sun gradually drying. I should have grabbed that first picture from way up high but missed my chance.<br /><br />Still not a whole lot of vegetation but some neat river views and waterfalls that come right out of the rocks. Halfway down is a dam and the opposite of a few days ago - around it all the roads revert to very poor gravel. This is where my phone/GPS stops working so I fumble around to recharge it. And then it's onwards and downwards along now not-so-good paved roads with plenty of potholes. Oh well, still beats gravel. By nightfall I'm still 20km from Huanaco but in no mood to camp so I keep going until things get urban and I can find a hostal where the entrance isn't a staircase. Eventually one appears - they still only have room on the 4th floor but I'm a lot happier unpacking my bike in the lobby instead of a night-time street out front.<br /><br />Well, almost up to date as I enter these words in this very noisy place on the morning of 191 - only 9 days to my B-Day and theoretical return trip although I'm more and more tempted to add a week for Galapagos - we'll see.<br /><br />Day 191 -<br /><br />Still keeping up - tonight I write from my tent most of the way up the next pass. Yeah, 1900m was too good to last. Plus I have the cheat sheet now so I kinda know what's coming. La Union is way to far for one day. I hope to make the first pass, but end up about 400m short. As is often the case after a marathon day, it's a bit hard to get started this morning. Plus I'm not quite 100% yet - I feel like the thing from Alien is working its way through my innards much of the day.<br /><br />But the uphill starts anyway. The road is more or less on par with the bad gravel of before in Peru - perhaps a bit worse - a bit steeper. I do have some tailwind, but I still only manage 7.0km/h average all day - one of my worst. Do manage to log another killer uphill of almost 1600m (probably a bit more due to errors in my altimeter at these altitudes).<br /><br />The day is pretty much par for the course - slow, slow going, lots of small villages with plenty of folks to remind me I'm a gringo. I'm torn between feeling very annoyed and somewhat intolerant. I have a hard time gauging when folks are showing contempt and when they're being friendly - some are pretty obvious with hands out and a big smile - although even then there are a fair share of beggars today - including tiny kids asking for "plata" (silver or coins). I was warned this is one of the more annoying stretches in Peru and it's living up to that so far. It's a hard position to be in - just biking along but definitely not somebody who belongs here - I can pretty much get out on a moment's notice. Still, I bike through all these tiny pueblos where folks see a gringo maybe every few weeks so it is a bit of an event - me that is. Me who's still a bit queasy and way behind schedule and every 30sec in every town somebody wants to know about my trip. I mostly just keep moving and keep answers short - sorry.<br /><br />Yeah, still queasy tonight - somewhat unusual I don't finish dinner, well won't get into that too much. Hope dinner agrees with me and that tomorrow is better.<br /><br />Roads are terrible as expected and the views are quite beautiful - also as expected. Although I can't see snowy peaks from here, the deep valleys are still amazing - higher than the Rockies is pretty normal here in Peru - valleys at 1700-1800m with many roads/passes going over 4000 and in many places peaks reaching over 6000. Well, more of the same tomorrow - hopefully make Huaraz in another 3 days at most and Trujillo 2 days after that - should just be able to squeak an extra day in somewhere and still catch the 2 buses to Guayaquil and hopefully onwards to Galapagos. Time will well. Hopefully nobody surprises me tonight - at least 2 teenagers noticed me dragging my bike to the campsite. Later I had a whole group of workers catching a truck and I just froze - I'm in full view just above the road but I'm pretty sure nobody noticed - at least no one pointed and said anything. Amazing how a red bike and bag can blend in the evening when you stand still.<br /><br />OK, time for bed.<br /><br />Day 192 -<br />Sometimes the days blend together - another long punishing day on gravel. Get up before sunrise, clear out and take down the tent to reduce the odds of being noticed. I still just manage to leave by 8 and yesterday's uphill continues. The summit is near 4000m making it another 2000+m all-at-once climb over about 60km. But I have a bit more energy early in the day and by around 10am I'm passing under the Corona de los Incas (Inca Crown) - an interesting, jagged-rock summit. I take a picture and a local maybe 200m away starts yelling at me demanding a tip for occupying 3 pixels in my photo. Won't be the last one today - lots and lots of kids yelling for plata - teach em young. But actually today goes quite well, including with the locals - quite a few are interested in my travels and I go through the route at most of my stops - of which there are quite a few.<br /><br />From the summit the road heads down to Chavinillo where I negotiate lunch - it's only 11:40 so still breakfast time although nobody actually seems to know what food is available. After the help goes back to the kitchen about 3 times I can order the single food item that's available. And after asking a few times I can even get a beer to go with it (although the help has to walk to the street to buy it). General confusion about menus is fairly common - most places have colorful posters with all sorts of food on display, or sometimes a chalk/white board with a list, but generally only 1 or 2 items is actually available.<br /><br />Anyway, the road continues to drop to about 3000m and then it's time to climb. Road conditions seem a bit better than yesterday but are still fairly rough in a lot of spots and the downhill is around all of 15km/h. At one point I manage to skid off the sandy ridge that runs down the middle of the rutted road and end up putting my bike down in a ditch of mud - but fairly gingerly so no real damage.<br /><br />The final ascent starts around 5:15pm so I figure on camping again but as it gets dark I notice the lights of Pachas appearing in the distance - and it doesn't seem too far, although in the end it drags on until about 7:15. The road is actually really busy - folks driving home their herds in the dark - first time I've ever passed a bunch of cattle (& horses & donkeys) on a narrow 1 lane road in the dark. But I'm glad I made it - a room, sink, lights, electricity, and a pretty decent lomo-saltado (steak, french fries, rice, onions, tomatoes and soy sauce). Nice way to finish the day. Plus I've made another 400m which I don't have to do tomorrow - I'm really tempted to strike for Huaraz - it's about 170km, most of which are paved although I'll still have to make it to 4800m from tonight's 3450 (& actually there's more uphill plus a drop to at least 3200 before the climb). Hmmm... it sure would be nice to have a whole day off to explore Huaraz - supposed to be one of the most idyllic places in Peru. I'll do my best.<br /><br />Day 193 -<br />well, best isn't good enough. Manage to get up before 6 and be on the road by 7:30, but still don't seem to have 100% energy, plus waste over an hour between keeping my GPS running, my slow leak happily inflated (and later patched when it becomes too annoying). It's getting really close to the end and I just feel like trying to do the bare minimum to keep things working - while quite a few systems seem to be nearing their limits - my front tire now has a bulge and I'm probably up to a flat every 300km and slow leaks otherwise. I don't even have a 100% spare tube - something I always try keep handy (try to patch a flat in the rain sometime), but I haven't been able to buy a correctly sized new tube since arriving in SA and my existing tubes are barely getting by - slow, unidentified leaks... Only 500km left now - about Chicago to Wausau. Plan to gut the bike in Trujillo - dump things like rims, tires, tubes, chain, maybe more - hope to get the frame really light and small.<br /><br />But back to today - even without the hurdles, there's no way I would have made Huaraz before maybe 10-11pm, still not something I'd like to try in Peru. Especially as towards evening the pass gets bigger and bigger and soon it starts to sleet and snow - nothing hazardous, just a dusting. Still, not conditions for trying to pull a marathon session. Today is one of the most scenic days I've had in awhile. After a huge breakfast of steak, eggs, fries and coffee, I leave Pachas and the road drops down to an idyllic valley floor and runs along the river to La Union. Here you cross the river at the first bridge and continue to parallel it as it gradually climbs to around 3600m at Huallanca. 40km and lunchtime. I feel proud - I more or less make my first joke in Spanish and get some sarcastic locals to laugh. They ask the normal barrage of questions and finally ask why I don't just fly around SA and I say you can't fly to Huallanca. I guess you had to be there, but I felt pretty good that all 3 started to laugh and one tells me that for money he could get a plane to land [in this narrow, deep canyon with no airstrip].<br /><br />But my conversational highlight - probably for all of Peru - comes when I stop for a drink and this local waiting for a passing camioneta starts to talk to me. He points across the valley at what he explains is an Inca trail - and indeed now that he mentions it, it does look a lot like the ones near Macchu Pichu. In fact, this is part of the trail that connected the heart of the empire in Cusco with what is now Ecuador. I mention that the bridge at the base of the trail doesn't look ancient and he mentions there was a Spanish colonial stone bridge there but it was destroyed in a flood. He goes on to talk about the Inca trail system all the way down to Argentina and a few other local archeological sites. Just amazing - just wants to relay some pride of his country and culture. Then a passing car stops and he's off - just best wishes for my journey - no request for a tip or anything. I have to smile - my hopes for Peru seem a little closer. Despite the warnings and the frequent requests for plata by little kids, this stretch has been quite nice. The restaurant/hostal last night was great and I've have quite a few friendly folks to at least greet and discuss travel with - yesterday one tried to get me to change my route to take in a local ruin - muy hermosa (very beautiful), but my schedule is really getting tight.<br /><br />So back to tight schedules - after lunch and a tube repair it's time to attack the last great pass(es) of the trip. The road out of Huallanca is actually paved (my map disagrees, but then it's at best a crude interpretation of reality). But the climb is beautiful - amazing, jagged peaks in all directions. It's also very long - my cheat sheet mentions 4800m - well, I guess I'll have to find out tomorrow - I keep going for awhile as the weather turns, and I approach a summit of sorts - then I get to a fork in the road - Huaraz points down a gravel road. I have this road on my map - unfortunately I don't have the full cheat sheet so I'm not sure which road is preferable - this is definitely a short-cut and probably less vertical, as the paved road heads down into the next valley. It's also muy solitario and muy hermosa. Hmmmm... - I decide to follow hermosa and also possibly save quite a bit of time. Plus I need to camp and soon find a reasonable site. It's not very secluded, but hey, it's dark, there's snow coming down, and no vehicle has passed since the turnoff.<br /><br />I'm a bit concerned - I like to ask locals when choosing routes, but they're in very short supply up here - the road seems to go through a park so I suspect they'll continue to be in short supply. All the trucks and cars without exception go the other way - maybe weather related, maybe want to avoid this very high gravel road. Hard to say - but tonight it's dark - really, really dark - no sky (clouds) and no lights in any direction. I can't make out my tent when my headlight goes out. Probably the eeriest night of the trip and I only have a day's worth of drinks left - well the road must lead somewhere. I hope I can trust the signs and there aren't any unsigned gravel junctions ahead. I'm already really close to the summit at around 4750m (I think this is my highest campsite of the trip), so it should just be a bit more climbing and after 30-40km I should rejoin pavement. Hopefully. Well, assuming tomorrow doesn't bring a foot of snow and I'm on the right road, I should definitely make Huaraz tomorrow - hopefully by early afternoon. It's about 100km, mostly downhill. I still want to explore a bit if possible (and some laundry would be nice). Well, enough diarrhea of the brain for one day. Tomorrow should be great.<br /><br />Day 194 - to Huaraz<br />Fallen behind yet again. Currently entering these words after my trip has entered whole new territory - sitting on a bus heading for Piura and Ecuador. The biking is over, but hopefully there's still a bit of travelling left. More on that later.<br /><br />Today begins at one of the most amazing campsites of the entire trip. A couple km from the junction of the gravel cutoff road to Huaraz. Definitely go this way. Yeah more crappy gravel, but that pales in comparison to a high alpine road that ranks up there with some of the nicest hikes I've done. Just an amazing 1-lane road set among 5000-6000m snowy peaks.<br /><br />I'm a bit paranoid to begin with as I haven't seen anyone since leaving the main road yesterday evening. So I actually bike back to the junction - unloaded - and double-check that I'm doing this right - take a picture of the National Park sign which has a crude map. It shows no junctions - but of course that'll turn out to be wrong.<br /><br />But the sign does confirm that this is the way to Huaraz. I suspect cars mostly take the faster paved road which has the benefit of going through a lot of towns where passengers might be waiting as opposed to a national park. But after a couple hours, I do see my first vehicle who confirms that I'm on the right path.<br /><br />The road stays at high altitude for the first 15-20km with some ups and downs, and then it's time for my final pass of the trip - from here near 4900m to Trujillo it's just about all downhill.<br /><br />On the way is a small railing and staircase - check it out - some pretty neat rock paintings right next to the road. There are plenty of other possible side tours to various high peaks, but no time for that now.<br /><br />The road is actually not as bad as some other gravel stretches and the downhill goes OK - until the blowout that is. Just moving along nicely and bang, my rear is flat in about 1 second. I have a look and it doesn't even look that bad - maybe just some really odd metal object - but once I have the tire off I find a spot I can just about stick my pinky through. This tire is no more. Well, maybe I could try yet another layer of inner tube on the inside to hold things together for a few more km - only 400 to go - but then I do have this spare.<br /><br />In retrospect I don't know if it was a wise choice. My spare is a road tire - 28mm wide - and basically sucks. It was left over after my Florida tour and my other Specialized lasted all of about 2000km on nice paved roads with light load - but I figured I could save the weight and it would be an acceptable spare until I could buy something better.<br /><br />Well, turns out you just can't buy hardly any 700c sized stuff in S. America - except a few countries where road racing is popular, but even there touring sizes are nigh impossible. Fortunately the Schwalbes have more or less lived up to their reputation - my first major failure here at around 9800km.<br /><br />Anyway, the rest of the trip will have a high-pressure narrow front tire. It sucks, it really sucks. Plus my pumps can't even properly inflate to the minimum 5bar. I fall after about 5km when rough surface and lack of steering forces me off the gravel and into the sandy embankment. But that will be the only fall - I just take it even slower on gravel from here on out. There's another 20km or so today and some more N of Huaraz.<br /><br />Eventually, gravel rejoins pavement at Catac - not much here, but you can buy some gaseosas at your standard roadside markets. And then it's a wonderful paved descent more or less all the way to Huaraz with amazing mountains all around.<br /><br />Headwinds are the only real challenge - so in the end speeds are still low and I make town between sunset and dusk.<br /><br />I find Caroline Lodging - the generally recommended backpacker place - friendly folks, hot water (after asking 3 times) and a nice, simple breakfast for S/12 ($4.25). But no private rooms available which I would have prefered at this point. Huaraz is pretty full of gringos - peak tourist season plus a local festival. I really wish I could spend a few quality days checking the place out, but I'm increasingly looking forward to returning home - maybe I just ain't quite cut out for the multi-year trips, but I think it's mostly what you gear your brain up for - I was expecting around 5 months, then 6 and now those are over I think I need a break from vacationing. Yeah, time for home wherever that may be - but possibly after a quick trip to the Galapagos first.<br /><br />Oh, and there's Internet and WiFi at Carolines. And plenty of decent restaurants, trekking, MTB-ing - well all the tourst stuff to go with some of the most majestic mountains in S. America.<br /><br />Day 195 - to Huallanca<br />Well, it ended up taking 4 days from Huanuco to Huaraz, so no extra day in town. Today it's onwards and downwards. It is a bit of a late start for a change (did those words just come out of my keyboard) - I've actually been starting pretty early generally around 8. Today was closer to 11. But initially things go pretty well - the road is mostly down and the winds don't pick up until later.<br /><br />Then they become a pain. My goal is Trujillo in 2 days, 1 day to hang around and visit the amazing Casa de Ciclistas, and a night bus towards Tumbes and Ecuador. I have 300km of downhill and only about 80km is unpaved, should be possible.<br /><br />Well, the late start doesn't help, nor does all this beautiful scenery that just screams for me to stop and have a look around, snap a few shots here and there.<br /><br />So progress is slow and only gets slower as headwinds pick up and up. And where is that downhill - it's mostly 1m up and 2m down but the uphills are short and steep. Finally hit some switchbacks - and surprise - they're unpaved. Yeah, Peru wants to keep me another few days. I baby the bike down the switchbacks without incident and then pavement returns - more or less. More and more frequent patches of gravel emerge and soon I'm at Canon de Pato - the famous Duck canyon. I knew the name but that was it. I really wasn't expecting this - amazing rock formations and a very narrow, steep gorge with a crude road cut out of the side of the mountain. And before long the crude road becomes cruder and cruder and proves my map wrong yet again. I trade about 30km of pavement for gravel. Really, really, really bad gravel. This area has lots of moving rocks - just stand still and you'll occasionally hear something. The local "Duke Energy" hydro-plant (privatized and sold off to the 1st world - in fairness it actually does seem to be a fairly decent operation - at least no were near as oppressive as Doe Run in Oroya - I just prefer economies to stay as local as practical) has lots and lots of trucks rolling down the road and they all have an extra metal grate on top of them as a kind of armor protection against falling rocks. One stops to point out my backpack is askew and we talk about the road ahead - no good news I'm afraid. But in the meantime - the views and the road itself are amazing - narrow tunnels blasted out of the mountain face and a precarious road a hundred meters or two above the river. Too bad progress is so slow I go from day to sunset to dusk to dark in the course of the 12km canyon. I decide proceeding past Huallanca on this quality road at night would be insane and there's a couple hostals here, so it's home for the night. Even find a hot shower - well somewhere between cold and luke-warm actually but it hits the spot as I painfully dropped about 1600m from Huaraz - mostly wasted on horrible gravel. Oh well, no extra day in Trujillo.<br /><br />Day 196 - to campsite<br />From Huallanca to Trujillo there's not all that much. Yesterday's driver proved accurate - the road is probably the worst condition gravel I've had in all of Peru and pretty much anywhere outside SW Bolivia and Paso Pichachen. There are very few short climbs and otherwise just a gradual, gradual descent so it should be wonderful but the horrificly large rocks everywhere make progress really slow - under 10km/h on the 70km despite a loss of another 1000m altitude. So in the end this stretch alone is near 90km of really bad gravel on an unsuited bike - I get a pinch flat within the first hour negating my earliest departure yet (before 7).<br /><br />The scenery is somewhat unexpected - more really dry conditions despite overcast skies in the morning which gradually burn off. Large stretches seem devoid of almost all vegetation. The rocks vary from amazing canyons to basically giant piles of rubble and mud. I suspect this is really hard territory to live in - seems giant pieces of mountains are moving around all the time. Most bridges have evidence of the past 2 or 3 generations of bridges next to them.<br /><br />Even as the Pacific approaches, the scenery remains desert. After around 67km from Huallanca sanity returns - I hit pavement. It should be a fairly nice rest of the day. I ask at a police checkpoing about the cutoff road to Trujillo - yeah, it's only 10min away - maybe 6km - look for the red bridge, not the yellow one. And he's pretty close - a bit over 8km later the red bridge after the yellow one appears. Not what I expect - these bridges have big fence gates and guards. Apparently a lot of this region is part of Peru's cultural heritage - a lot of archeological excavations going on and this road is monitored with guard shacks on both ends. But they're friendly enough. Open the gate and tell me about road conditions.<br /><br />So after all of 8km of pavement, the rest of my day is on gravel yet again. At least this stretch is what gravel should be - well consolidated and fairly smooth. I stop to inflate my tires several times - the slow leak in my rear getting noticeably less so and I keep bottoming out. I just don't want to fix another tube out here with about 100km left.<br /><br />I manage to ride about 25km down the gravel road to at least reach my goal of 100km for the day. The road annoyingly parallels the paved road on the other side of this not particularly big river, but there are no more bridges to cross. In the end, I camp up on a bluff perhaps 5m above the road - fairly exposed but only about 3 vehicles pass all night and I really enjoy my final self-cooked meal of spaghetti (what else) with salami and the rest of my fresh veggies. Tastes awfully good. Tomorrow I'm shooting for the earliest start of the whole trip and hopefully covering the remaining 100km by noon. We'll see.Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-8233886628595910092008-09-26T16:29:00.000-07:002008-09-26T19:49:56.147-07:00Week 27 -the Calderons to Doe Run Peru and JuninIdyllic dirt poor Peru to big US mining operations - this week has it all...<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu17bXXXndN-TkmrMElnmeFe_rHqlxI2BEs3ot_R5nrHFzy-i-WD3CE0CoP6aICgyE6UwpU2TgKiBoj9mPrCuWpnWzzkX-XUoeJTJj87Uxi8fTohJEzEA7u4X1gX7uP92Rdyvr6Ka_S6C0/s1600-h/182-1+-+the+Calderons+.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu17bXXXndN-TkmrMElnmeFe_rHqlxI2BEs3ot_R5nrHFzy-i-WD3CE0CoP6aICgyE6UwpU2TgKiBoj9mPrCuWpnWzzkX-XUoeJTJj87Uxi8fTohJEzEA7u4X1gX7uP92Rdyvr6Ka_S6C0/s400/182-1+-+the+Calderons+.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250524155075728738" border="0" /></a><br />The Calderons standing on my campsite - day 183<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj58AglUSbE7w2IRn-lYDh4i21UN_k1CyMq0Co79-op8YgksHAZZ-hTg2TGr_6e6_TFydRWVSmaD4vcBZbZHBFX4sjtvcJMOnzPOJnFTOn9Zse_H7-wec98PTFiJhwit3WyWXg9rGXLnmIS/s1600-h/182-2+-+Watch+that+pothole.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj58AglUSbE7w2IRn-lYDh4i21UN_k1CyMq0Co79-op8YgksHAZZ-hTg2TGr_6e6_TFydRWVSmaD4vcBZbZHBFX4sjtvcJMOnzPOJnFTOn9Zse_H7-wec98PTFiJhwit3WyWXg9rGXLnmIS/s400/182-2+-+Watch+that+pothole.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250524064482784786" border="0" /></a><br />Watch for potholes<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghD6yrSbNl0yu1mcwEaztQTiYg1xzcHPIL7lKpFYpFg-I15fRMKQz2_RaqKYwH9k7IGfasO8HwVe8k-7b0_3zcec8iAKjmH1ml3-pS_GaRidWSkr1VMraqTR_Uvb1Ld0FUwNOXWb8VZm00/s1600-h/183-1+home+sweet+abandoned.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghD6yrSbNl0yu1mcwEaztQTiYg1xzcHPIL7lKpFYpFg-I15fRMKQz2_RaqKYwH9k7IGfasO8HwVe8k-7b0_3zcec8iAKjmH1ml3-pS_GaRidWSkr1VMraqTR_Uvb1Ld0FUwNOXWb8VZm00/s400/183-1+home+sweet+abandoned.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250524068880087746" border="0" /></a><br />Another fine campsite (183-184)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzkH15hpR51jSl_iSpKsBscIMw-6iQ5Wzjr-57uOXF9Ma-FvXscI_1uKlHojBA4_rYZtf6Daf2hWxi8w5Shv1KtQBgyU07wJJmthPm1qxfBCwyrfTl_Ml7URt4cL6ARKNdVuHVM05T15P/s1600-h/183-2+-+more+high+Andes.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzkH15hpR51jSl_iSpKsBscIMw-6iQ5Wzjr-57uOXF9Ma-FvXscI_1uKlHojBA4_rYZtf6Daf2hWxi8w5Shv1KtQBgyU07wJJmthPm1qxfBCwyrfTl_Ml7URt4cL6ARKNdVuHVM05T15P/s400/183-2+-+more+high+Andes.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250524072479656850" border="0" /></a><br />High gravel road<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGONj0fkiH0mTkXKwSn1FjfpQVx4Q5T4_-__K15SZ1lRr6d8zGVRrTw8oCjCh3jsZP5-ekfN8PqcTcSf7a6m1fHF3M8vK1m8YONIVShFWIGdnxcG4JY48kR8eWw7jFMHb90YM_r2e7-vG4/s1600-h/183-3+-+The+Toll+Man+Cometh.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGONj0fkiH0mTkXKwSn1FjfpQVx4Q5T4_-__K15SZ1lRr6d8zGVRrTw8oCjCh3jsZP5-ekfN8PqcTcSf7a6m1fHF3M8vK1m8YONIVShFWIGdnxcG4JY48kR8eWw7jFMHb90YM_r2e7-vG4/s400/183-3+-+The+Toll+Man+Cometh.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250524071530887394" border="0" /></a><br />The tollman cometh<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKlDJrxUFhJPmAHiqpkiHtDvMo5HGeitSXa3Vu_C1PEa8m4VrIzmy38fCWHVewX1-ac3McN3Oa8R8rYnNfcTTblhrhKPiT-LLZSLGwn33EQB78UMDDSsqzHksT0c0Y8obIaGzCto1g3ZWu/s1600-h/184-1+-+Ayacucho.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKlDJrxUFhJPmAHiqpkiHtDvMo5HGeitSXa3Vu_C1PEa8m4VrIzmy38fCWHVewX1-ac3McN3Oa8R8rYnNfcTTblhrhKPiT-LLZSLGwn33EQB78UMDDSsqzHksT0c0Y8obIaGzCto1g3ZWu/s400/184-1+-+Ayacucho.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250524072921531762" border="0" /></a><br />Ayacucho - 185<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4g_UbNDGId4da8Yrzq9KJU1CEdq-XjJtlNsWLRGFKmi5NUE69H7_5frvLSHfB5CDrTw0duykc9UjXcN6t1CBfTpYpJKyQmOHObeaY7p4cGiX-I8wp2bpkeFtgT6_Nybmseg75rb2rlasJ/s1600-h/184-2+-+Evening+Gravel.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4g_UbNDGId4da8Yrzq9KJU1CEdq-XjJtlNsWLRGFKmi5NUE69H7_5frvLSHfB5CDrTw0duykc9UjXcN6t1CBfTpYpJKyQmOHObeaY7p4cGiX-I8wp2bpkeFtgT6_Nybmseg75rb2rlasJ/s400/184-2+-+Evening+Gravel.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523880464077218" border="0" /></a><br />Nice evening gravel heading out of Ayacucho<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8yfISUQ4YTeWx40cZalTeiRCcDF6ueQ3zyyFyBknrAVYcLpaekQpE20EQOjFtADobMOG8Jn_PR4po_l4ZxW3FrKG1XsH69S8k6n3pLZzn_iRNFHnTPokwjcazCMKEn-rEWqKaWH-W3qcl/s1600-h/184-3+-Evening+Bridge.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8yfISUQ4YTeWx40cZalTeiRCcDF6ueQ3zyyFyBknrAVYcLpaekQpE20EQOjFtADobMOG8Jn_PR4po_l4ZxW3FrKG1XsH69S8k6n3pLZzn_iRNFHnTPokwjcazCMKEn-rEWqKaWH-W3qcl/s400/184-3+-Evening+Bridge.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523879590683026" border="0" /></a><br />Evening suspension bridge<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZDGW8X3wezsClAxRvHTeNORNERtZhnv9cCibuAuREY5QHkhhGue8ma8kIimHNXgNyCY7qrReN61_U_WAvEqoABCe_6v4zoYGMy09RMFRj-d0itACDe7c4-WVi76VstH9iWXs6xf6KwkS/s1600-h/185-1+-+Camp+and+the+1+armed+cactus.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZDGW8X3wezsClAxRvHTeNORNERtZhnv9cCibuAuREY5QHkhhGue8ma8kIimHNXgNyCY7qrReN61_U_WAvEqoABCe_6v4zoYGMy09RMFRj-d0itACDe7c4-WVi76VstH9iWXs6xf6KwkS/s400/185-1+-+Camp+and+the+1+armed+cactus.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523881530904882" border="0" /></a><br />Morning camp - one of these cactii kept scaring me at night - day 186<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI-I9E-32_enrBpm6m5haFLz-3kXvWi-JYp-y-yTlL11uHAgr3b99AUITuICtk3PG8FOCHGfPGJGgN09f4JMmHzxKmw-KVE-WfrqK9OJ9Ttq4TMvUJoKQ0JYdW3ydKQx6TMSTDtjuw4J4Z/s1600-h/185-2+-+Bridge+to+Malloc.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI-I9E-32_enrBpm6m5haFLz-3kXvWi-JYp-y-yTlL11uHAgr3b99AUITuICtk3PG8FOCHGfPGJGgN09f4JMmHzxKmw-KVE-WfrqK9OJ9Ttq4TMvUJoKQ0JYdW3ydKQx6TMSTDtjuw4J4Z/s400/185-2+-+Bridge+to+Malloc.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523885831828386" border="0" /></a><br />Bride to Malloc<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXmeMF3QLp-iex6MO_hOloPNATQZgvKyeZOC-HeAReowSnDk9hGeAn4R2mtiekHI3crJYUpQOR90SRbJwB3vOK4Ce-5ewWDMrBChqqZHh-ozxorsVvLCSCo0S287ox9PBKerqm8CSv_mCd/s1600-h/185-3+-+Another+Beautiful+Valley.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXmeMF3QLp-iex6MO_hOloPNATQZgvKyeZOC-HeAReowSnDk9hGeAn4R2mtiekHI3crJYUpQOR90SRbJwB3vOK4Ce-5ewWDMrBChqqZHh-ozxorsVvLCSCo0S287ox9PBKerqm8CSv_mCd/s400/185-3+-+Another+Beautiful+Valley.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523884019565554" border="0" /></a><br />Start of last big gravel section to Huancayo<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYB6hCymTRgeg42n-ZBpUNDZuYH-S8eQxYgyLU7Kh2qAW15hcr7ueD7RLeuWn0f2EO9XjhTyLwHBkukspjC1-QN426FUGqcGP7LW3xEJSh_EsWY8hxCVkaURsPr-F_CI7GAe1VsM6cjLWm/s1600-h/185-4+Moon+and+Mountains.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYB6hCymTRgeg42n-ZBpUNDZuYH-S8eQxYgyLU7Kh2qAW15hcr7ueD7RLeuWn0f2EO9XjhTyLwHBkukspjC1-QN426FUGqcGP7LW3xEJSh_EsWY8hxCVkaURsPr-F_CI7GAe1VsM6cjLWm/s400/185-4+Moon+and+Mountains.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523562605918514" border="0" /></a><br />Evening moon<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KTYXfaqa_1VEWRVIBrLBt8gIzBeU3z-VrqrP3bOX7eg6Lgx989nMsIrFIJJDkjxwrGM8XHr2vC0mN6b842mMUzNgjaRLWZzkG7FHnp_8y5aW0pvM66BiwNsCDqDaz_wpRA__gyjju3cU/s1600-h/186-1+Izuchaca.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KTYXfaqa_1VEWRVIBrLBt8gIzBeU3z-VrqrP3bOX7eg6Lgx989nMsIrFIJJDkjxwrGM8XHr2vC0mN6b842mMUzNgjaRLWZzkG7FHnp_8y5aW0pvM66BiwNsCDqDaz_wpRA__gyjju3cU/s400/186-1+Izuchaca.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523564102741554" border="0" /></a><br />Colonial bridge in Izuchaca - day 187<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN78jMzbTTVblRu8nQbu3udbNUSAbFdsYhxOukTvdrIUilvYut5_4an18XlGEquvUMK00vLcJ8FLJOXfb8C7cX8NcQmCAdlMsHhdSzWEUOcjo88QW-TmpRtNqWgdpvJIWDy0odavojUHbZ/s1600-h/186-2+Izuchaca+and+Donkey.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN78jMzbTTVblRu8nQbu3udbNUSAbFdsYhxOukTvdrIUilvYut5_4an18XlGEquvUMK00vLcJ8FLJOXfb8C7cX8NcQmCAdlMsHhdSzWEUOcjo88QW-TmpRtNqWgdpvJIWDy0odavojUHbZ/s400/186-2+Izuchaca+and+Donkey.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523560190853986" border="0" /></a><br />Same bridge - complete with donkey<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKCwwFunsJ9npLCvvA09Rp6hemNM6T-oSJCbdjiDkqjqKmEeFwjyWPMmREUF1LYrQEp27iMhTvFycT6QixkVFZfx0Ym2JmFu_CJdnYroNmhWiFZpmqXX1gYLaiITlLNdz544LG456AH2P8/s1600-h/187-1+-+Good+morning+Huancayo.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKCwwFunsJ9npLCvvA09Rp6hemNM6T-oSJCbdjiDkqjqKmEeFwjyWPMmREUF1LYrQEp27iMhTvFycT6QixkVFZfx0Ym2JmFu_CJdnYroNmhWiFZpmqXX1gYLaiITlLNdz544LG456AH2P8/s400/187-1+-+Good+morning+Huancayo.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523563687676498" border="0" /></a><br />Good morning Huancayo - friends at the hostel - 188<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQo3ISvJZm_9hPL1LMNRqFIICVFmSD8cQNKy7RRqqsi9LZe8WRQioWgNHWBT5m9hvtwS3WH3ArV9HTiJzOLTkSBsDuw8-NsfKMH_FzKekcIFLzn5YMaX6CaHG3KEPCv4uKPcty26_UHOd5/s1600-h/187-2+-+Good+morning2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQo3ISvJZm_9hPL1LMNRqFIICVFmSD8cQNKy7RRqqsi9LZe8WRQioWgNHWBT5m9hvtwS3WH3ArV9HTiJzOLTkSBsDuw8-NsfKMH_FzKekcIFLzn5YMaX6CaHG3KEPCv4uKPcty26_UHOd5/s400/187-2+-+Good+morning2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523568565402994" border="0" /></a><br />Another friend<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzz-ylGW0rICZ_50r2ngRbgbK9hZWB8ksfj2OV0-LxHpbf3wFwgQ7N557HXlzOUAFpn7u5RHlwnqwTtJ-pIX_0InIlCfeAU2Mi1yLwblg6T9mFxpiq_ql-H70oPnmD44_xyU2mr67WLI2/s1600-h/187-3+-Huancayo.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzz-ylGW0rICZ_50r2ngRbgbK9hZWB8ksfj2OV0-LxHpbf3wFwgQ7N557HXlzOUAFpn7u5RHlwnqwTtJ-pIX_0InIlCfeAU2Mi1yLwblg6T9mFxpiq_ql-H70oPnmD44_xyU2mr67WLI2/s400/187-3+-Huancayo.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523376716133906" border="0" /></a><br />Central Huancayo<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbWCtcuXYbwBnmrMlEkH9691_DDdhSQiMiLQ7cKTpTuf3mP8GT5fJN72jis-G81yhga0G79xUrCMKo1l3o2DFdOb8ho8Pg-oYxOyIN8UNyQC-aOB3SjAg602FW7biz6a9UedRCuNBDDomU/s1600-h/187-4+-+Bus+on+its+side.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbWCtcuXYbwBnmrMlEkH9691_DDdhSQiMiLQ7cKTpTuf3mP8GT5fJN72jis-G81yhga0G79xUrCMKo1l3o2DFdOb8ho8Pg-oYxOyIN8UNyQC-aOB3SjAg602FW7biz6a9UedRCuNBDDomU/s400/187-4+-+Bus+on+its+side.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523378342876738" border="0" /></a><br />Bus accident on the way out of town<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8_nA1oiuNEtR2JLjBO4jsiIb35v4YMj-P53eC1jhuW1lKZz05VPCZsM1yIHYkUQ0W-XCdEKtkvS0TTitG4XvFSLid9TurnuP1Qn8-uUnfkG8B-oSClGUo_kxOx_vxyMUXwhHhSKtkEMxx/s1600-h/187-5+-+La+Oroya.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8_nA1oiuNEtR2JLjBO4jsiIb35v4YMj-P53eC1jhuW1lKZz05VPCZsM1yIHYkUQ0W-XCdEKtkvS0TTitG4XvFSLid9TurnuP1Qn8-uUnfkG8B-oSClGUo_kxOx_vxyMUXwhHhSKtkEMxx/s400/187-5+-+La+Oroya.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523381160191090" border="0" /></a><br />Ahhhh - La Oroya<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghYTwqH7l_p3Jt-JeW165TFElI-w-YFMCT9G87ZKWqWEhwhDgpN_b-jKswKTY_CFAf7tMxIrenawdYsEGjyheLHa9eC5VX7LuWR_b19RmRSy-Lw4Yi9AJr9nA4a8V8qO6rGL8izUodb-Cb/s1600-h/188-1+-+Welcome+to+Doe+Run.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghYTwqH7l_p3Jt-JeW165TFElI-w-YFMCT9G87ZKWqWEhwhDgpN_b-jKswKTY_CFAf7tMxIrenawdYsEGjyheLHa9eC5VX7LuWR_b19RmRSy-Lw4Yi9AJr9nA4a8V8qO6rGL8izUodb-Cb/s400/188-1+-+Welcome+to+Doe+Run.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523381103126546" border="0" /></a><br />And here it is by the wonderful light of day - welcome to Doe Run Peru - day 189<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLfep224xqfxL0qRIrikUw9DaJFrZ_P3TRrgjVzfP8k60UGi89HKQiVM-J_ApLj0tzXdH1bMxRzwcXJQYUElASa2wu-7uz4fRSdxuxEN9zheyedewJmsCazn5vOFwqgjWGQbaNVqhdhRon/s1600-h/188-2+-+Vicunas+are+back.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLfep224xqfxL0qRIrikUw9DaJFrZ_P3TRrgjVzfP8k60UGi89HKQiVM-J_ApLj0tzXdH1bMxRzwcXJQYUElASa2wu-7uz4fRSdxuxEN9zheyedewJmsCazn5vOFwqgjWGQbaNVqhdhRon/s400/188-2+-+Vicunas+are+back.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250523381316696978" border="0" /></a><br />The Vicunas are back<br /><br />Day 183 -<br /><br />I leave the Calderon's and find there's an actual hostal a km or so down the road. Oh well. The first stretch is flat, but it doesn't last. After 12km I cross the river at around 1980m alt. and the final climb before Ayacucho begins. This one will go on and on, over 2400m based on my cheat sheet.<br /><br />The road is truly bad. I take back what I wrote - well, it's still better than SW-Bolivia, no pushing the bike for 10km stretches. But still among the worst roads I've encountered considering it's highway status. The day passes slowly. I eventually make Chumbes - a smallish town on the way up. I look for ingredients for dinner, the first store owner tells me maybe city folks eat tomato sauce and marmelade but I'm in the countryside now. The second owner has a Peruvian bus outside (i.e. a flatbed truck with about 50 people standing in it) and has no time for me. When they're all taken care of, and anyone else who happens to walk in, and she and fellow customers stop snickering at me, she finally asks what I want, gets interrupted by another customer, and returns to me in a very impatient state.<br /><br />WELL, WHAT DO YOU WANT?<br /><br />tomato sauce<br /><br />NO AY, QUE MAS? (There's none, what else?)<br /><br />Just asking. How about those cookies in the green (verde) pack.<br /><br />Here.<br /><br />No the green pack.<br /><br />Here, here are the cookies in the yellow (AMARILLO) pack, look see, yellow.<br /><br />Yes, but I want the green pack.<br /><br />#$@%^ Gringo.<br /><br />Thank you [for graciously allowing me to patronize your store and buy a half-dozen items].<br /><br /><br />OK, time to move to store #3. She finally has tomato sauce.<br /><br />How much?<br /><br />2 Soles.<br /><br />But the price you have written right there is 1.20.<br /><br />2 Soles. Gringo. (Bear in mind a full 2-course meal costs 2.5 to 3 Soles, this 80g pack of tomato paste typically goes for 0.8 to 1 Sol in a bigger town).<br /><br />Thank you.<br /><br />OK, I decide it's time for another store, somehow special Gringo pricing by angry store owners just isn't my thing. Roadside vendor #4 turns out to be decent - there's about 4 girls/women hanging around and they flirt a bit. At least I get some snacks for normal prices and a smile and even make smalltalk about my trip.<br /><br />1 in 4 humane store owners ain't too bad.<br /><br />And on my way out of Chumbes I get a flat. My tires are getting old and I'm liking Peru less and less. Just 2 weeks to go.<br /><br />More up and up and up - well that's the rest of today. No real place to stay and while I don't try and ask, no Victors turn up and offer me a place for my tent. A bit after sunset I find an abandoned adobe structure I should be able to hide in, but a stray dog has beaten me to it and I don't feel like having a beggar around while I cook. Turns out to be the last uninhabited building for quite awhile - I keep going and soon it's dark and it turns out roads that are really hard when it's light are pretty much impossible when it's dark. My headlight just can't illuminate the big rocks well enough for me to dodge them at my fairly unstable 6km/h pace and I keep banging and slipping off things, so it's time to push.<br /><br />Finally, at a curve in the road, there's a dog-free abandoned building (I'm amazed how many abandoned places dot the scenery around here). Not as secluded as I prefer - there's toilet paper everywhere so it seems people stop here fairly regularly. I'm on the inside of a switchback so cars and trucks rumble past, slow down, then rumble past again. I think I end up scaring a couple kids walking down the street at night. But it's dark and cold and home. Not a particularly good day.<br /><br />184 -<br />Didn't make summit yesterday - "only" 1700m - still this means my top 3 ascent days of the trip are now all on the Cusco-Ayacucho stretch. Amazing scenery, brutal road, in an increasingly brutal country [I feel] as well. Well, most cyclists I've met said this was one of their least friendly countries in S. America, but noone actually had any serious problems.<br /><br />The climb continues. After about an hour I meet a nice gentleman with a pickaxe and a saw-horse. The saw-horse is there to block the road. He informs me it's his job to collect a voluntary contribution towards road maintenance. That's rich. By far the worst highway I've been down and he gets to pose with a pickaxe and beg.<br /><br />How much?<br /><br />5 Soles ($1.70 - a lot of Peruvians get by on less than this a day).<br /><br />What?<br /><br />Please sir, it's a voluntary contribution.<br /><br />Here's 2 Soles. [Don't feel like getting into an argument with a pick-axe guy missing most of his teeth].<br /><br />Can I take your picture?<br /><br />Propia, Propria (tip, tip) as I depart.<br /><br />Another few hours and I get to my first choice. A fork in the road. My cheat sheet lists a higher summit, but more tire tracks head down the road that is obviously not going any higher. No sign of course. There have been no signs of any kind except for political slogans and about a half-dozen concrete km markers at odd intervals with no really discernable distance to anywhere (I don't know why, but many roads seem to have multiple conflicting sets of km markers at the same time, many of which are vandalized - there are some dedicated vandals who will re-chisel a 5 into a 6 or a 3 into an 8).<br /><br />I head in the dominant direction but have second thoughts, back up and wait for about 10min at the junction for the next vehicle. I manage to get them to stop and they tell me either road leads to Ayacucho but the left (upward) one is "mas solitario" (more solitary), so downwards it is.<br /><br />The downhill burns up most of my altitude fairly quickly, and the rest of the day is spent more or less following a contour line along a very long hillside. Every few hundred meters the road heads into a box-canyon and drops steeply between 20-100m to cross the little stream at the head of the canyon, then loops back and up steeply. And hey, there's road construction and a smooth gravel surface, and road signs! For about 10km anyway. Then pure crap, neglected, rock-strewn, sandy and dusty gravel returns. And that's pretty much the afternoon and evening. My phone keeps shutting itself down due to a loose connection to my extra-battery so GPS data is again incomplete. Oh well. I wonder if the data will be of use to anyone - hope to overlay it onto Google Maps with elevation data, but reseting my phone every 10min starts to get annoying really fast and my arrival into Ayacucho gets later and later.<br /><br />I see the city and worry - it's on a plateau and to get there I go down yet another canyon, bigger than the ones of all afternoon. Much bigger. Oh well. I get to the bottom and it's getting dark. By the time I climb up the final 200m and 3km it's dark, the road is just brutal, traffic filled, and omnious lined with slums and abandoned buildings. Once on the plateau, [poor] street lighting begins, but the lousy road continues into fairly heavy traffic with lots of parked trucks, camionetas, etc. Finally, about 3km later glorious pavement. But the city center is still a few more km away and the road has a few obstacles like bike-eating sewer grates (actually steel-rebar placed into the asphalt at about 20cm intervals over a ditch which crosses the entire road) and unmarked speed-bumps (really wakes you up at about 30km/h on a downhill stretch).<br /><br />Arriving into a bigger Peruvian city at night is not something I enjoy, but again, no choice given my schedule and I don't want to camp 10km outside when I can get a hotel and shower, decent meal, and internet access. So I make it to the Plaza de Armas and Hotel San Cristobal. A beautiful colonial square with churches going back to the 17th century, and about the only thing that impresses me in Ayacucho.<br /><br />The area around the plaza is quite decent, plenty of places to stay and nice places to eat. I head for Ninos, and dinner is nice; overpriced and not as good as in Abancay, but lots and lots of meat which should replace some of the protein lost over the last week.<br /><br />Too many odds and ends to do. I arrive late and shower, wash clothes, replace my first broken spoke of the trip (on the rear wheel, but luckily of the 4 possible spoke orientations, the broken one is the only kind that can be done without removing the freewheel), fix the broken cable on my solar panel, try to fix the wiring on my phone, wash dishes, filter water, buy food, eat out for dinner, go online, transfer pictures off my phone and camera,...<br /><br />At 3am I finally crawl into bed. A long day.<br /><br />185 -<br />The hotel is loud so by 7:30 I decide not much point to laying in bed. Still takes a couple hours to do normal morning things and then get the exploded mess from last night's odds and ends back into the bike bags. Finally head out around 10am and have a look around. Again, the main square and colonial area around it is amazing. I buy a bit more food and by the time I'm leaving a few places already are advertizing lunch so I figure, might as well.<br /><br />About 10min into my lunch a few gentlemen walk up and start chewing cud in front of the open storefront. I look through them and notice my handlebars are moving. I get up and someone is very badly attempting to steal my trusted steed. He was still about 30cm away from noticing the cable-lock through my rear wheel. Trying to carry a 50kg bike would have been more interesting to watch. Fortunately when he sees me he aborts the mission and his accomplices at the entrance also disappear.<br /><br />About 50,000 touring-km to date without incident, only 2 weeks into Peru. Not really feeling the love here. Will have be extremely vigilant and always lock it and take all valuables whenever stopped. To be fair, crime is a problem all over S. America - Fanny and Yoann's bikes were also nearly stolen in Argentina in the middle of the night while they were camped (again, the thieves didn't notice the lock and got burdened by them and quickly aborted the job). For that matter, Monika who I met on my first trip in '96 had her bike and all gear stolen outside a supermarket in rural Montana.<br /><br />Glad to be leaving Ayacucho but how. No signs as usual. But after asking a few policemen and a gas station attendant I'm eventually heading out of town. Leaving town only takes about 3km from the plaza and soon I'm back into desert canyon country on a paved road. This is living. Unfortunately, the ups and downs don't end - leaving Ayacucho is a drop of about 300m followed by a 500m climb to just about 3000m, and finally a long descent into and through Huanta. On the way into town my rear tire is low - drat. Another flat, another delay [turns out my patch from 2 days ago is slowly failing, but won't figure that out until tomorrow night].<br /><br />Huanta is the end of the pavement - out of town in the dust I get to fix the flat. The road continues mostly as a slight downhill. A pleasant way to end the day. Eventually it's down to and across the river, and then more or less along it - wow a road the follows a river - something of a first in Peru. Still, a rough road with some short steep ups and downs, but a lot easier than one 4000m pass after another.<br /><br />It's desert country now - which means fairly sparse vegetation, but all land is put to use so the little sprouts between the cactii are kept really short by grazing animals and dessicated shit is everywhere. But it makes finding a campsite easy - lots of well-hidden spots and I pick a beautiful one except in the dark a nearby cactus with a roughly human shape keeps freaking me out. Need to write a short horror story about that someday.<br /><br />186 -<br />Well, almost caught up with the writing again - just missing my lost day in Cusco. But it's nearing 2am and I need to get a bit of sleep.<br /><br />My alarm is set pretty early and I get to watch stars change to dawn and then sunrise (ok, it still takes awhile to get going, but I'm moving by 8am). By daylight my cactus sentry is less omnious. After about 3km I make Malloc - another small town/roadstop with the odd market and hospedaje. And the first shop owner is decent - even fills up my water bottle. Nice.<br /><br />The road is nice too - pretty much continues where yesterday left off - along the river. Crosses a bridge and now we're following a different river - now upstream, but still gradual except for the odd 50 or 100m steep, steep climb up the canyon wall followed by an equally steep descent. The canyons are just beautiful, but still populated by an awful lot of apparently abandoned buildings - feels like ghost towns after a war or something else that went wrong. Not a lot of traffic, either, but still enough earth-moving trucks to keep my paranoia at bay. Guess they're working on the road here and there - it sure can use it. Safety measures against going off the sheer cliff faces generally involve small wooden sticks with a piece of tape on top reading "peligro" (dangerous) in some day-glo color. I suppose it is a lot cheaper than guard rails.<br /><br />Pretty much the whole day is at or near the canyon floor. About 30min after sunset I reach Quichuas - the biggest town of the day. There are 3 whole hospedajes/hostals here. I know cuz I went to all of them. #1 wasn't all that inviting and the half-dozen folks at its entrance were getting a bit annoying with all there peppering questions and the somewhat dodgy characters going in and out. #2 had no answer. #3 looked most promising but again no answer. The restaurant next door says the owner is a teacher at the local school and will be back shortly. So I eat dinner, wait, wait some more, get out my Stephen King, read, read some more, get annoyed by the Peruvian music blaring out of the TV<br /><br />(long parenthesis: not to keep the anti-Peru stuff up but some of the music down here is just bizarre: sounds like amateur, cheap, syntho-stuff, combined with a really annoying, whiny female voice who is either 6-years old or trying to sound that way, and all this is overlaid by a loud male announcer whos is something like a cross between a square-dance caller and a Simpsons-Monster-Truck-Ad announcer - THIS SATURDAY, SATURDAY, SATURDAY AT THE SPRINGFIELD SPEEDWAY, SPEEDWAY, SPEEDWAY. At first I thought it WAS an ad being blended into the song - it's not uncommon for radio stations here to "sneak" in announcing themselves during quiet spots in a song - but with these songs the male announcer is constantly mixed in. A huge contrast to the amazingly beautiful pan-flute music played by folk bands for us gringo/turistas in all the tourist traps; ok, long parenthesis over),<br /><br />pack everything up, and decide to go back to #2 when I notice a light go on and find my hostal for the night. Nothing special, no hot water, and within about an hour, no water at all (I think this is the 3rd hostal in Peru where this has happened to me now). Well, for S/10 ($3.50) it still beats camping.<br /><br />OK, definitely time for bed now.<br /><br />Day 187 - Huancayo<br />Fallen behind again on the blog entries but the trip has also been quite challenging lately. Writing this on the morning of day 191 from my hostal in Huanuco - my alarm hasn't gone off yet but the general lack of any insulation and continuous cacaphony of sounds drifting in makes me decide I could could be working on this - the traffic just never stops here, nor do blaring horns, car alarms, dogs, big steel gates being opened and slammed shut... Probably the only Peruvian hostal where I managed to actually sleep through was, of all places, "Gringo Central" - Cusco - run-down, paper-thin walls but not many customers and it was at the very end of a long, dead-end street.<br /><br />Actually, I take that back - the hostal in Quichuas was ok, too (as was the mostly empty one in Huancayo) - not much going on until early morning (5:30ish) when a lot of other guests (I think it's more like apartments) get up for work. So I join them and manage to get a fairly early start around 8am.<br /><br />The fairly lousy gravel continues out of town but I imagine a better future when the road goes past a dam and turns to nice, nearly seamless concrete. But a few hundred meters furter it's back to reality and gravel. At least we still follow the river valley nicely - some ups and downs but no passes.<br /><br />By lunchtime I make the 40-odd km to Izuchaca - a small little market town with a really neat colonial-era stone-arch bridge and a few restaurants where I sit down for some almuerzo. Here the roads split with a different gravel road leading to Huanevelica - a provincial capital with no paved roads leading to it. But from here to Huancayo it's all beautiful pavement.<br /><br />It's also almost all uphill - the road climbs and climbs to around 4000m - lots of hairpins again, and then finally summit but Huancayo is still not in sight. Just the Mantaro valley spreading out ahead (Huancayo is off to the right behind a bend in the hills more or less) An actual, fairly wide valley. Wow. Eventually the road drops into various suburbs and then into Huancayo itself. A much nicer entry than Ayacucho - follow the main road to the end and turn left at the T and you're dumped right onto Calle Real (after asking a couple locals), the main road through town. You'll also use it to leave town heading north.<br /><br />About 20-cuadras (blocks) later I'm in the heart of town - the obligatory plaza and colonial church. Turn right on the 1st street of the plaza (Giraldez) and head up another 1.5km or so and you reach La Casa de La Abuela - the backpacker place in Huancayo. A neat old wooden house full of antiques and a few world travellers and the first place that includes breakfast (for S/20 - $7). I have a dorm to myself and they have WiFi. Nice.<br /><br />Day 188 - La Oroya<br />So nice I need to do some internet stuff and don't get going until around 11:15. By the time I get back to the plaza I decide it's time for lunch - a little cafe/heladeria (ice cream)/burger joint will do. I can snap a few shots of the square while I wait for my meal. By noon I'm finally rolling again.<br /><br />I think it should still be a fairly easy day - pretty much running along Rio Mantaro, but it turns out the road is a gradual climb all day long, plus the nearly constant light headwinds knock another km/h or two off my average. The road is mostly excellent - about as good as possible. The broad valley ends in Juaja about 45km N of Huancayo, from there you cross the river and it becomes more canyon-like, nothing spectacular but a lot more narrow. Still, an excellent road. The km-signs on the road count down to the point where Peru-3S turns into Peru-3N - La Oroya, tonight's target, so I'm constantly reminded of how many km lie ahead. By sunset it's still well over 20km and by nightfall still over 10. Oh well. I'm tempted to camp but nothing good presents itself over the last 10km or so - lot's of trucks moving earth around (I'll find out why in a few minutes). In retrospect I should have tried harder, but who knows ahead of time.<br /><br />La Oroya finally presents itself around one final gooseneck of the canyon. The first sight is a giant smokestack and lots and lots of lights. Welcome to Doe Run Peru. It pretty much is La Oroya and turns this part of the world into something that wouldn't look out of place in a Dickens' novel. I follow the road to a T-junction and am in the middle of dozens and dozens of street vendors, horn-blaring camioneta drivers, and a mass of people. And 3 hostals - all of which have a staircase leading to street-level. One has a bit of an entrance walk so I try that first, but it's complete with no hot water and a good layer of grime on everything. #2 looks a lot nicer and a cell-phone-booth worker promises to watch my bike as I ask, but they're full. #3 also doesn't want me, they only have room on the 4th floor, but I insist. My most expensive night at S/30 (ok, it's still only about $11 even after the dollar has fallen about 7% in the last 2 weeks) for which I get a shoe-box sized room up a cluttered staircase on the 4th floor into which all my bags and bike must fit, plus a shower down the hall with something resembling hot water.<br /><br />I head out and find a pollo (chicken) joint - never much of a challenge here or in Bolivia. Everything goes well until night falls and I feel a bit bloated. I awake a few times to check on my dinner and it's not doing well at all, all green and coated in acid.<br /><br />Day 189 -<br />But morning comes anyway and while I sleep in (noise permitting), I still decide I need to move on. This is the last place I want to spend another night. By day La Oroya is equally appealing - a sprawling chemical complex where Doe Run apparently extracts gold, silver, copper, and Peru's minerals for the benefit of its foreign (US) owners and leaves pretty much a giant, polluted eye-sore. There's Doe-Run golf club, Doe-Run park, Doe-Run tennis courts - all nicely ringed with barbed-wire and plenty of keep-out signs. But all is soon forgotten as within 3-4km town is well hidden behind other canyon walls and I can focus on keeping my breakfast down.<br /><br />Another losing battle. By 11am I leave the contents of my morning meal in a puddle at the side of the road. I decide today won't be going too well and take it easy. No choice really - sustenance at this point will consist of water + rehydration salts + Sprite + a local verson of Starburst. At least all of these things stay down & I manage to extract a few calories & electrolytes to keep me going. Very, very slowly. Despite a pretty easy road (but with a gradual climb of about 500m), I only manage to cover about 55km by 4pm. Taking a break every 5 and then 2km certainly doesn't help. But I've made the next town with accommodation and Junin is a big improvement over La Oroya. I find a cheaper, brand-new (not even finished) hostal with hot water and a big room for all my stuff (still completely lacking in insulation which is very noticable at 4am when a group of tourists arrives). After a 4-hour nap, I head out and find dinner of soup, eggs, and rice. Perfect. Then it's lights out.Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-27282938214108303872008-09-26T15:37:00.000-07:002008-09-26T16:29:55.567-07:00Week 26 - Macchu Pichu to PovertyOK, over 5 weeks to post in 1 day - week 26 starts at one of the high points of the trip and ends with a local family sharing a bit of land with me between their shack and an irrigation canal...<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiko9_1R3UeZeRu_J1kWc_dlgEDIhyuBFiJ6gW50oG3x4zvu1iBZkHSIjoypt2RErVvZuFkP6gYEj5hfuOTxtsrNilfbQC1IeHUvatZa2OmYdeNT9vAnH12OxJtf3oEupdVQlqcRAUEwZMw/s1600-h/176-1+-+Entering.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiko9_1R3UeZeRu_J1kWc_dlgEDIhyuBFiJ6gW50oG3x4zvu1iBZkHSIjoypt2RErVvZuFkP6gYEj5hfuOTxtsrNilfbQC1IeHUvatZa2OmYdeNT9vAnH12OxJtf3oEupdVQlqcRAUEwZMw/s400/176-1+-+Entering.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250472952527525538" border="0" /></a><br />Entering the site - Day 176<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNPAUm9xnLPQkuV6MMSYSIyhl3Ua6w0GeH4I4i1ium1LGbSm6K7L6bnyQp0do1zxrrMCrkpQ2Dv4QauONz5_GUdBtyliGpqDhHon3ZY0eUwKoEOgyg75D8CvX8o0keXhRYSscsHFmudfX-/s1600-h/176-2+-+First+Look.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNPAUm9xnLPQkuV6MMSYSIyhl3Ua6w0GeH4I4i1ium1LGbSm6K7L6bnyQp0do1zxrrMCrkpQ2Dv4QauONz5_GUdBtyliGpqDhHon3ZY0eUwKoEOgyg75D8CvX8o0keXhRYSscsHFmudfX-/s400/176-2+-+First+Look.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250472953197871970" border="0" /></a><br />First impressions<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF0F6y7uf2dudIQRT-NFYByAirIRsoLAyoCrL9SgLGmcROTsVeSq2xcbkfIELhyphenhyphenUCPhgC2Sy0B9ZB13iyT88uq2dGqP8XFee9lqjqAyAnW9StcvJ9rW7aN7gzJn_xyXgxpNzgZqD7y_njV/s1600-h/176-3+-+Cool+Tree.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF0F6y7uf2dudIQRT-NFYByAirIRsoLAyoCrL9SgLGmcROTsVeSq2xcbkfIELhyphenhyphenUCPhgC2Sy0B9ZB13iyT88uq2dGqP8XFee9lqjqAyAnW9StcvJ9rW7aN7gzJn_xyXgxpNzgZqD7y_njV/s400/176-3+-+Cool+Tree.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250472294772477874" border="0" /></a><br />Cool tree<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIa9Hz4_2hgGk6WAXKMPo6gSwz0i0iHz0V5wNGrtopljEjx9H4Q6wFui3PcJsZApS_yZEdp8Hyei2gto22oJUBJrjowf3fRdyXCn3tvi7Kb0o-QW-lNwA62XzCl_z20HyUoTtI1mGsMyj-/s1600-h/176-4+-+Frontal.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIa9Hz4_2hgGk6WAXKMPo6gSwz0i0iHz0V5wNGrtopljEjx9H4Q6wFui3PcJsZApS_yZEdp8Hyei2gto22oJUBJrjowf3fRdyXCn3tvi7Kb0o-QW-lNwA62XzCl_z20HyUoTtI1mGsMyj-/s400/176-4+-+Frontal.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250472293446066210" border="0" /></a><br />Looking back<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyt3clVzOAEF5iZlqU2asMcfm26KWgJnX9xIYzOkydgRtXILkAYUFy3cHICsIvwhfdonUfKhXG5Rk0epRpbaFHAYl9PqSXBJURmdsmYk3igIO-Z3T-inu61LKaUbCewAfcY2E-h8LA_TxT/s1600-h/176-5+-+Lawncare.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyt3clVzOAEF5iZlqU2asMcfm26KWgJnX9xIYzOkydgRtXILkAYUFy3cHICsIvwhfdonUfKhXG5Rk0epRpbaFHAYl9PqSXBJURmdsmYk3igIO-Z3T-inu61LKaUbCewAfcY2E-h8LA_TxT/s400/176-5+-+Lawncare.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250472293275158290" border="0" /></a><br />Local lawn care<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7tc4qR8EbmdrAAZZPUXSpKgj2-hXEqkE4nac4l5FxY8g_svrGRWTYvKC45toILKhsk7Mdy0kEXVgcAz4VQSWRV5HO9Uzw9aPuEDF3u9oENeYjam-aV8AqC_yzFufBVvFB4YA213O181P0/s1600-h/176-6+-+Lawncare+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7tc4qR8EbmdrAAZZPUXSpKgj2-hXEqkE4nac4l5FxY8g_svrGRWTYvKC45toILKhsk7Mdy0kEXVgcAz4VQSWRV5HO9Uzw9aPuEDF3u9oENeYjam-aV8AqC_yzFufBVvFB4YA213O181P0/s400/176-6+-+Lawncare+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250472291967265618" border="0" /></a><br />Ditto<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnWAXwY-WvI51tmb_c8tJsq5_NsGXAPe6-s6DWAzdz9TkvnqOZUey7hgqrdGybFl1ryiFdPwSGv9DOYa8ZV95StXHlGq72aV2AqolBczEEtKc1F2wpr9d5hGHBFhTJILZhyphenhyphen5b7CBr5fchw/s1600-h/176-7+-+From+the+top.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnWAXwY-WvI51tmb_c8tJsq5_NsGXAPe6-s6DWAzdz9TkvnqOZUey7hgqrdGybFl1ryiFdPwSGv9DOYa8ZV95StXHlGq72aV2AqolBczEEtKc1F2wpr9d5hGHBFhTJILZhyphenhyphen5b7CBr5fchw/s400/176-7+-+From+the+top.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250472294102279458" border="0" /></a><br />Looking into the sacred valley<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhDHpdH0pCVh6JNZp2AipZvSa08yC6gdm8JyZpv9VrwYDTfDid5Y4cSYp-6Eu9XPMS_JOfJ8vM8TGWxXg7y2gkM73X97IMQvFjSxvt_qp-F3Ylw3QaQRTQCtxnJ30VQ1uthu353FeBnq9m/s1600-h/176-8+-+From+the+top+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhDHpdH0pCVh6JNZp2AipZvSa08yC6gdm8JyZpv9VrwYDTfDid5Y4cSYp-6Eu9XPMS_JOfJ8vM8TGWxXg7y2gkM73X97IMQvFjSxvt_qp-F3Ylw3QaQRTQCtxnJ30VQ1uthu353FeBnq9m/s400/176-8+-+From+the+top+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471706934216658" border="0" /></a><br />Another view down<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhsDWKFbcTVftM004sqMZMSIcUxBGZUGPGxx7V3TAIpY-NhOGL-YhNLlErYgMrEHRjQ-T0z9ScUPG8mh-U8OpwL62EKnwPxnWthGyYinMRGaVLry0RwwuLxV7u_PpW_czNOR2QiGUCc0L-/s1600-h/176-9+-+Inca+Bridge.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhsDWKFbcTVftM004sqMZMSIcUxBGZUGPGxx7V3TAIpY-NhOGL-YhNLlErYgMrEHRjQ-T0z9ScUPG8mh-U8OpwL62EKnwPxnWthGyYinMRGaVLry0RwwuLxV7u_PpW_czNOR2QiGUCc0L-/s400/176-9+-+Inca+Bridge.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471710448560322" border="0" /></a><br />The Inca Bridge - I think that wooden platform would be removed in times of crisis, of course there's a lot more sabotage around now<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXeqLXZGtl1hso_Fz1NsKylma-pMY3NFc6YftKXwXnf7Hm4R1rBsVgiUkEe3nMARORYjYLqVvbvcI6EhLi3Es4CCqo6BzHQLWEPQ8ryK4JRVS88Gff-POwr0uQ1jX7gkZosuQULJ4YXzfp/s1600-h/176-10+Money+Shot.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXeqLXZGtl1hso_Fz1NsKylma-pMY3NFc6YftKXwXnf7Hm4R1rBsVgiUkEe3nMARORYjYLqVvbvcI6EhLi3Es4CCqo6BzHQLWEPQ8ryK4JRVS88Gff-POwr0uQ1jX7gkZosuQULJ4YXzfp/s400/176-10+Money+Shot.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471712847211330" border="0" /></a><br />Another grand view<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhouCD2wbwJcaRVsuTHrIVQ5a2XcCHMj00NL1HIfTKwAklUUvwqeTgyS5v5tQbZ3VfDEZaE5P_tT_dhxoqPHTaaK-ClXAj6b7G-KE4MZGiviQMayCLEy3xoZdtPfaB0yUKXLmAewDD_m39k/s1600-h/176-11+-+To+Wayna+Picchu.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhouCD2wbwJcaRVsuTHrIVQ5a2XcCHMj00NL1HIfTKwAklUUvwqeTgyS5v5tQbZ3VfDEZaE5P_tT_dhxoqPHTaaK-ClXAj6b7G-KE4MZGiviQMayCLEy3xoZdtPfaB0yUKXLmAewDD_m39k/s400/176-11+-+To+Wayna+Picchu.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471711273137826" border="0" /></a><br />Heading up to Wayna Pichu<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2-sK1MHir4zA_Z4BfeWF6yaKpxJPGYDMcbYfrTDb1vii1SsC-20VIct9vFCg-rb7kklF7ed6xzEhijKtgyaJr9wz5ZRDlwMlETLsYaa3bXjMSIbYkuNaVGuE0oWkI5Pqk6FLL9rMEoOOR/s1600-h/176-12+-+Admiring+the+view.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2-sK1MHir4zA_Z4BfeWF6yaKpxJPGYDMcbYfrTDb1vii1SsC-20VIct9vFCg-rb7kklF7ed6xzEhijKtgyaJr9wz5ZRDlwMlETLsYaa3bXjMSIbYkuNaVGuE0oWkI5Pqk6FLL9rMEoOOR/s400/176-12+-+Admiring+the+view.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471712289350130" border="0" /></a><br />Enjoying the view<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVPXaVUYFthYreV4fdiB0BTL0iwwtbFUQ7cFeTz-E72Inl0f8bgfmJ6fIaPk9H1u3tongfFuFUtiC9YyfuwXbQwsTN3wOP1MJN-ns_kdTpW3wM2OY9jaZycU69eFg8jiMnd4l1kwlJzFaw/s1600-h/176-13+-+Me+Too.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVPXaVUYFthYreV4fdiB0BTL0iwwtbFUQ7cFeTz-E72Inl0f8bgfmJ6fIaPk9H1u3tongfFuFUtiC9YyfuwXbQwsTN3wOP1MJN-ns_kdTpW3wM2OY9jaZycU69eFg8jiMnd4l1kwlJzFaw/s400/176-13+-+Me+Too.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471314194630354" border="0" /></a><br />My turn<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioFUb-CMMAYmJdZAHQMz1lh4VXL2m4r2ghYlUFFDLWSZ4CgyKzV5cUhwWVqGoM1ouqukl0ICDVUP9PeF0JNvmASByfX0f072RwiyQAbt5PzqmPdSnk9nlcu6YEgkxKdypsw0x6yhOYR0P1/s1600-h/176-14+-+Why+didn%27t+anyone+tell+me.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioFUb-CMMAYmJdZAHQMz1lh4VXL2m4r2ghYlUFFDLWSZ4CgyKzV5cUhwWVqGoM1ouqukl0ICDVUP9PeF0JNvmASByfX0f072RwiyQAbt5PzqmPdSnk9nlcu6YEgkxKdypsw0x6yhOYR0P1/s400/176-14+-+Why+didn%27t+anyone+tell+me.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471314085716498" border="0" /></a><br />Why didn't anyone tell me my shirt is half tucked in<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxOxGjY6HUSnjcI8kjjEcik6gbnIMhRkuPc9NoAhjqtTrooCt3015wm1ZA5lDuwgLaukHOJIen9-hYPfIHkdqfWx8dZ6zT0N8BYs0m5B9HQvUIs-WXhTQktPl17nAjapCYIXEAAHsUD6IL/s1600-h/176-15+money+shot+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxOxGjY6HUSnjcI8kjjEcik6gbnIMhRkuPc9NoAhjqtTrooCt3015wm1ZA5lDuwgLaukHOJIen9-hYPfIHkdqfWx8dZ6zT0N8BYs0m5B9HQvUIs-WXhTQktPl17nAjapCYIXEAAHsUD6IL/s400/176-15+money+shot+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471315060294674" border="0" /></a><br />The money shot - from the gatekeeper's post<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqiBjzFPSHeJBOWuKoHB9cEIgKNwFPdaGTz_ZnmeW_t5nv4vJIlMLcvSbvxM57ABXRV0m_lFdJZkt9HbI5DmA20zVwTCPhzOypNpG7Skq0irKvCo-Elo55Bx96SGpFy4WDUmLjkuoAdhJ/s1600-h/176-16+Long+Story.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqiBjzFPSHeJBOWuKoHB9cEIgKNwFPdaGTz_ZnmeW_t5nv4vJIlMLcvSbvxM57ABXRV0m_lFdJZkt9HbI5DmA20zVwTCPhzOypNpG7Skq0irKvCo-Elo55Bx96SGpFy4WDUmLjkuoAdhJ/s400/176-16+Long+Story.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471316328589666" border="0" /></a><br />It's a long story - ask Pat and Bernardo<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg53t-uqVlf4G8vuDS1FcICjYLlmdUGC8mwkrCLojU_N__NfdaTRE4Qiioga6Y2CeB3X39mgL5IQwRVxggSkJgPD4pjueCWeBg84LI19RJZZR3SKK3LQyEzNCkdppNgghkTfc0ynW8Hf3B3/s1600-h/176-17+-+City+on+the+edge.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg53t-uqVlf4G8vuDS1FcICjYLlmdUGC8mwkrCLojU_N__NfdaTRE4Qiioga6Y2CeB3X39mgL5IQwRVxggSkJgPD4pjueCWeBg84LI19RJZZR3SKK3LQyEzNCkdppNgghkTfc0ynW8Hf3B3/s400/176-17+-+City+on+the+edge.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471319197792130" border="0" /></a><br />A city on the edge<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtasxIDF720IaFRsoZwAeclRMjMpCfVSGXT2OOo1tgjXAVJyFKlzTmTj4E0_n2kx8Hf1wxnQ4n3pEohF_kO4JNhKXrBfCTiy1D2gHk1IZA1rw1BD2c-qPIF8LE8juxbjQmLh4vYc-iNE6l/s1600-h/176-18+-+Sun+Gate.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtasxIDF720IaFRsoZwAeclRMjMpCfVSGXT2OOo1tgjXAVJyFKlzTmTj4E0_n2kx8Hf1wxnQ4n3pEohF_kO4JNhKXrBfCTiy1D2gHk1IZA1rw1BD2c-qPIF8LE8juxbjQmLh4vYc-iNE6l/s400/176-18+-+Sun+Gate.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471005798562786" border="0" /></a><br />The trail to the sun gate and the magnificent moutains beyond<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEincr_li9nhXpmTVsroKBVVYGT_GRS1QgCwHwzH8_c4pbqoiT22Vib5Tw5U-FswOAaDDGyFUqkqxVEaAtXqWX_uDOuLbYjICFAYJMl3U6pvJz12J_krpWgoirgMI5bt5MRQNiHIXDe2Jaqu/s1600-h/176-19+-+Entry+off+Inca+Trail.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEincr_li9nhXpmTVsroKBVVYGT_GRS1QgCwHwzH8_c4pbqoiT22Vib5Tw5U-FswOAaDDGyFUqkqxVEaAtXqWX_uDOuLbYjICFAYJMl3U6pvJz12J_krpWgoirgMI5bt5MRQNiHIXDe2Jaqu/s400/176-19+-+Entry+off+Inca+Trail.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471005082071122" border="0" /></a><br />Looking back towards MP<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmexSCH0b5tCw6Syfdmrdd3M0jRWgQMOA1Fn5YMkfyTl7YagpvInC8qIGmyIeTFvwygtqQwaou4o_TRbn-FyqWejkQhUzJi9j035mPmg2loGs5Il3kJU-M3_Sq0wp7jwRSKlilpVqAHxey/s1600-h/176-20+Inca+Trail+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmexSCH0b5tCw6Syfdmrdd3M0jRWgQMOA1Fn5YMkfyTl7YagpvInC8qIGmyIeTFvwygtqQwaou4o_TRbn-FyqWejkQhUzJi9j035mPmg2loGs5Il3kJU-M3_Sq0wp7jwRSKlilpVqAHxey/s400/176-20+Inca+Trail+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471014966305138" border="0" /></a><br />Also along the trail<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJ3iFIJlQG4pSFTef3e9aa4mPNRxzvnZv1aw8OWdVfzzwJljawyu5_G91TrMDSPis5grd6E-s66NUjPOb2zTOtVz9PrlxAgrALDvU99MQwc4BlsPHZ86Oki-eoVsl2TJoS4_aNtghnVGD/s1600-h/176-21+-+Irrigation.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJ3iFIJlQG4pSFTef3e9aa4mPNRxzvnZv1aw8OWdVfzzwJljawyu5_G91TrMDSPis5grd6E-s66NUjPOb2zTOtVz9PrlxAgrALDvU99MQwc4BlsPHZ86Oki-eoVsl2TJoS4_aNtghnVGD/s400/176-21+-+Irrigation.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471011912893986" border="0" /></a><br />MP irrigation<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEbLeHtKGjaF1ez5bmMfPtQAm34qv2DCY0JeYtcothV2PUPvIrRqUiLVh44vkE2p55RlkRQK656oqUS0OGS3OD3FxdGN9xbU65Y8AH8BgVQI8uooVYTCoIdmb_TbVtIH0GJ7fErBfNFm7b/s1600-h/176-22+-+Luxury+in+Peru.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEbLeHtKGjaF1ez5bmMfPtQAm34qv2DCY0JeYtcothV2PUPvIrRqUiLVh44vkE2p55RlkRQK656oqUS0OGS3OD3FxdGN9xbU65Y8AH8BgVQI8uooVYTCoIdmb_TbVtIH0GJ7fErBfNFm7b/s400/176-22+-+Luxury+in+Peru.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250471016384828146" border="0" /></a><br />Living the highlife - the Hiram Bingham train runs around $700 for the 1 day excursion to MP but does include some pampered meals on the train<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipl5qsx7WkPLisq45uxqsj6XjWvMikBvzn7uUdZhl1KEBDyfkDRE-Hs-KgbGY6zqZAFRawf13EVpDFpV9v7p0EswWav1LQVffMolFbb104lUqzw8ss1IvN1r_UOkODgnc2ouu72W7-yZEV/s1600-h/177-1+Cusco+Main+Square.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipl5qsx7WkPLisq45uxqsj6XjWvMikBvzn7uUdZhl1KEBDyfkDRE-Hs-KgbGY6zqZAFRawf13EVpDFpV9v7p0EswWav1LQVffMolFbb104lUqzw8ss1IvN1r_UOkODgnc2ouu72W7-yZEV/s400/177-1+Cusco+Main+Square.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250470559418451906" border="0" /></a><br />Last, unwelcome, day in Cusco (177) looking at the main square<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhRY2CkivV_IZQf5yClInLjROS99UbQftlq6ocwsVJ6tT0D06dGXgSyRkdOCISDPWM2ReWxNm80jeyupe47p6GnnDZQMfLzUq0Ft2vdV_HQaMss1-f8Bmx-jfnCyKjKZR20eiRLBm3b2j/s1600-h/177-2+-+Inca+Monument.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhRY2CkivV_IZQf5yClInLjROS99UbQftlq6ocwsVJ6tT0D06dGXgSyRkdOCISDPWM2ReWxNm80jeyupe47p6GnnDZQMfLzUq0Ft2vdV_HQaMss1-f8Bmx-jfnCyKjKZR20eiRLBm3b2j/s400/177-2+-+Inca+Monument.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250470558871845410" border="0" /></a><br />The Inca Monument - you can climb the tower<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHSQK58fNximO0oYFqflCzkPoi873udFTEr1WU3di6nPkIcrkYsih0xy5_WvPbboDhbmM6d0azEs4CZLzNhuAR1lRRqdGWnHLi5Q2aevnKVCTrDYZ8Kd4-tiC84IUh2ju1rgnSNObTKdwi/s1600-h/177-3+The+other+Cusco.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHSQK58fNximO0oYFqflCzkPoi873udFTEr1WU3di6nPkIcrkYsih0xy5_WvPbboDhbmM6d0azEs4CZLzNhuAR1lRRqdGWnHLi5Q2aevnKVCTrDYZ8Kd4-tiC84IUh2ju1rgnSNObTKdwi/s400/177-3+The+other+Cusco.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250470561858613282" border="0" /></a><br />And here's a differnt view of Cusco from the tower<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUEtTpwrg_JjeNqgv7G-ULQYLvIQWoEgaWGeF1Uh3yN0dsWtyrcsLKe4ystOhmsCdAg_FbhKhU9mhiszLrsTNcR3PVagFnLeXHpoSLsXxUfeo8uX1kdJsM_CW_jooJQC_3d7RrD6rXoNvl/s1600-h/178-1+-+First+Pass.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUEtTpwrg_JjeNqgv7G-ULQYLvIQWoEgaWGeF1Uh3yN0dsWtyrcsLKe4ystOhmsCdAg_FbhKhU9mhiszLrsTNcR3PVagFnLeXHpoSLsXxUfeo8uX1kdJsM_CW_jooJQC_3d7RrD6rXoNvl/s400/178-1+-+First+Pass.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250470560460262978" border="0" /></a><br />Finally, heading out (178)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWC1CC6qwVB1ylRZSppUDKrk0Ds6If69DiDhGAcCFZ7VnO8bgXQ_URHhvOFGcD9cGx7-KHNmRTwhyphenhyphenDmFi3PEjqUalf-3Bm3Ekg6qxY-Ct_9JrZ5ZYmsBivau1Yv-KAFmEQCvyBazt6WlZu/s1600-h/178-2+-+Heading+Down.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWC1CC6qwVB1ylRZSppUDKrk0Ds6If69DiDhGAcCFZ7VnO8bgXQ_URHhvOFGcD9cGx7-KHNmRTwhyphenhyphenDmFi3PEjqUalf-3Bm3Ekg6qxY-Ct_9JrZ5ZYmsBivau1Yv-KAFmEQCvyBazt6WlZu/s400/178-2+-+Heading+Down.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250470561682880978" border="0" /></a><br />And down - this valley isn't even 1/2-way down yet<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MCEa-yQs6I3vNx_1xPOiBZ9yPADnr93vUlE59s-u14YEAX6sUml0gmW9EOrFBIcKfwPntyb_4yekfduFsRCi06XZKrgTJIm7WR5iaP5HzXbk55_9m7vyUZ4tLebaU7TctzPo3wVtHQAP/s1600-h/178-3+-+The+Bottom.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MCEa-yQs6I3vNx_1xPOiBZ9yPADnr93vUlE59s-u14YEAX6sUml0gmW9EOrFBIcKfwPntyb_4yekfduFsRCi06XZKrgTJIm7WR5iaP5HzXbk55_9m7vyUZ4tLebaU7TctzPo3wVtHQAP/s400/178-3+-+The+Bottom.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250470226499303986" border="0" /></a><br />This is bottom<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGI2UiMS1jEasOM7gCUyX8qJU9kYLMxzqeeSVmgIlEriSrqxBLf3u-83Qgu28hjBabbf-DgbIUl1fuyV7udIbCOodrmQ0YwBZLr2rFlN03xQxe9ZzTgYYoJ3i6ejbiMyNDsH52Ls_mN0Fv/s1600-h/178-4+-+The+Bride+1.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGI2UiMS1jEasOM7gCUyX8qJU9kYLMxzqeeSVmgIlEriSrqxBLf3u-83Qgu28hjBabbf-DgbIUl1fuyV7udIbCOodrmQ0YwBZLr2rFlN03xQxe9ZzTgYYoJ3i6ejbiMyNDsH52Ls_mN0Fv/s400/178-4+-+The+Bride+1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250470227100305010" border="0" /></a><br />Well, actually this is - finally reach the river after about 100km and dropping 1800m from the top<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgpMfx1uWpT4L9vhzBPy-lvDcYzueCAdWEE_t-Ia-Qsboe1DXVeA4RqB2ckjOgL-hXrQmiZU09MA0MyyObTSjgtA33FwPUaqE5G_ExIc_Sb_fSJrmH_r4irCk6DzvxNg7SHtMoZI27TlOa/s1600-h/178-5+-+The+Bridge+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgpMfx1uWpT4L9vhzBPy-lvDcYzueCAdWEE_t-Ia-Qsboe1DXVeA4RqB2ckjOgL-hXrQmiZU09MA0MyyObTSjgtA33FwPUaqE5G_ExIc_Sb_fSJrmH_r4irCk6DzvxNg7SHtMoZI27TlOa/s400/178-5+-+The+Bridge+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250470227744620338" border="0" /></a><br />Another river shot<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc4QIzDldpvynHrNqVSxLuQhShw3tthmrOxYjnAifwA5DQ-ihoL_vQ9FlI4DgccB1DwVi9tq41Vsi99fRV9dgg1zsYUcvF6m7sdfXA8Kv88oS9Ex-6QS0h2-iC6z1ukWQPJ2NjAb6FNKRK/s1600-h/178-6+-+River+Valley.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc4QIzDldpvynHrNqVSxLuQhShw3tthmrOxYjnAifwA5DQ-ihoL_vQ9FlI4DgccB1DwVi9tq41Vsi99fRV9dgg1zsYUcvF6m7sdfXA8Kv88oS9Ex-6QS0h2-iC6z1ukWQPJ2NjAb6FNKRK/s400/178-6+-+River+Valley.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250470232257205186" border="0" /></a><br />Nice evening view<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI6ELWo_JeRUA97B8CG0aToO_MFESrl_8PDi1K6l2yOSHoZ-RMtCIly0WPoQh0zAX8Eo6mER3af9LJW5JYr8Y95m21_XI_blvlP8O8CooKqp7rZKvueUR9LETb8G0NMQIKhL6qttjkGXHP/s1600-h/179-1+Glorious+Andes.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI6ELWo_JeRUA97B8CG0aToO_MFESrl_8PDi1K6l2yOSHoZ-RMtCIly0WPoQh0zAX8Eo6mER3af9LJW5JYr8Y95m21_XI_blvlP8O8CooKqp7rZKvueUR9LETb8G0NMQIKhL6qttjkGXHP/s400/179-1+Glorious+Andes.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250470231220338082" border="0" /></a><br />Beautiful Andes - climbing the next day - 179<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWIP_AKseCu6G3z-Ny95VuEEoTAWkIzE3-MeDFls4K_4wdPJXhWNZXBBqWt4WxNkPwRfP3XFZA16GGFFU0QWr0Z0q68p-52MtIqxix6GWiCct9WU-HEfat4anN4JSNBHG24sgMjvpmyVG/s1600-h/179-2+-+2000m+up+4000+abs.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWIP_AKseCu6G3z-Ny95VuEEoTAWkIzE3-MeDFls4K_4wdPJXhWNZXBBqWt4WxNkPwRfP3XFZA16GGFFU0QWr0Z0q68p-52MtIqxix6GWiCct9WU-HEfat4anN4JSNBHG24sgMjvpmyVG/s400/179-2+-+2000m+up+4000+abs.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469942677240690" border="0" /></a><br />The next pass - over 4000m (I have 2 & 4 fingers up - 2000m to 4000m abs)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZFgcWfnhIvihOeqS0TuxSXtBdcpNIRKurSl0OTg1wa51ryQ_EOMvCgcy8pjNuopOXIIQmB92Qzo22_PzqZRyxEk6CLCMzlL-jKa_4n98IKmoYorhuMg82D2VJYgDTvSWixWmas_FCpUCi/s1600-h/179-3+-+Heading+Back+Down.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZFgcWfnhIvihOeqS0TuxSXtBdcpNIRKurSl0OTg1wa51ryQ_EOMvCgcy8pjNuopOXIIQmB92Qzo22_PzqZRyxEk6CLCMzlL-jKa_4n98IKmoYorhuMg82D2VJYgDTvSWixWmas_FCpUCi/s400/179-3+-+Heading+Back+Down.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469945328003202" border="0" /></a><br />An asphalt ribbon heading to Abancay<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYlv6qiHszBSlotRuhctiIoFJt-PtFMzbNsUATFCyeFXYZ0gw4SYB7jL3bdz80XYmOqMRD4FnNPcHmMSybYMrc8jk28kRasx7uaQJ7q44BH8kPjfXU-wti3XG65HMqelF3jMmIRg9TOBd/s1600-h/180-1+-+Colonial+Bridge.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYlv6qiHszBSlotRuhctiIoFJt-PtFMzbNsUATFCyeFXYZ0gw4SYB7jL3bdz80XYmOqMRD4FnNPcHmMSybYMrc8jk28kRasx7uaQJ7q44BH8kPjfXU-wti3XG65HMqelF3jMmIRg9TOBd/s400/180-1+-+Colonial+Bridge.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469949731279810" border="0" /></a><br />The colonial bridge for a nice long stretch of gravel - day 180 - half a year<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY7-k9nrruMPAVvAcQ8lkdZHShyphenhyphenUFMKh1XUUMzK9nV5tSwex5JoVEzzuYIbeh8uOxfs_krkGyEMR6De-038-oggQeSzWYQB5riKSz6NNG2_spjmCvxNLgTAmLHYEfankqccuaIzRsRePQx/s1600-h/180-2+-+Farm+Fires.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY7-k9nrruMPAVvAcQ8lkdZHShyphenhyphenUFMKh1XUUMzK9nV5tSwex5JoVEzzuYIbeh8uOxfs_krkGyEMR6De-038-oggQeSzWYQB5riKSz6NNG2_spjmCvxNLgTAmLHYEfankqccuaIzRsRePQx/s400/180-2+-+Farm+Fires.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469947471666994" border="0" /></a><br />Looking back at Abancay and fire<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzYbiMlBDqZ_5oGfk5OaJc34LHZHvW2aCdqWbPk8KSisc499b-b9E7VLd4pGxR4W22lTXaGB3uhq2UxB3FcN4wQk9s6isHqmYMQOhCr5vNQv5m9Ucqe0NYm64MouuWxc4k17rHIqiBY_N_/s1600-h/180-3+-+Stampede.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzYbiMlBDqZ_5oGfk5OaJc34LHZHvW2aCdqWbPk8KSisc499b-b9E7VLd4pGxR4W22lTXaGB3uhq2UxB3FcN4wQk9s6isHqmYMQOhCr5vNQv5m9Ucqe0NYm64MouuWxc4k17rHIqiBY_N_/s400/180-3+-+Stampede.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469946032125410" border="0" /></a><br />Stampede!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6t2yLWWCvTBYJfJw5AogDEA4nV_M1oHt8SUQ4o8_Lxv2wUP0pUSGkPkHo9vSr5laxd-aG_hmPUIH9b_zvJaRUD41NzM249S92PUs1qPYAKhBWv9iM-cPAw6wK9q2374FGAT-o0O0dU06W/s1600-h/180-4+-+Stampede+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6t2yLWWCvTBYJfJw5AogDEA4nV_M1oHt8SUQ4o8_Lxv2wUP0pUSGkPkHo9vSr5laxd-aG_hmPUIH9b_zvJaRUD41NzM249S92PUs1qPYAKhBWv9iM-cPAw6wK9q2374FGAT-o0O0dU06W/s400/180-4+-+Stampede+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469727576552738" border="0" /></a><br />Ditto<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtwGoTkGBioh6GrlBUv-DV96UqmfWQv42nQ7THUn_7leVptXgDioaAWBQCrMTwvwGBwbttOPuXr3SEn1Bd2vQtieCx9eyIAOvFGVdWYC8dwUX3ykOr3Z8f0ZINjDmBeAMNQlwaFvvrGCiC/s1600-h/180-5+-+Beautiful+Andes+1.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtwGoTkGBioh6GrlBUv-DV96UqmfWQv42nQ7THUn_7leVptXgDioaAWBQCrMTwvwGBwbttOPuXr3SEn1Bd2vQtieCx9eyIAOvFGVdWYC8dwUX3ykOr3Z8f0ZINjDmBeAMNQlwaFvvrGCiC/s400/180-5+-+Beautiful+Andes+1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469734236776898" border="0" /></a><br />Evening view<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRrdkm_X5Iw24NEktTZjJ-3735BfX8Y0yAfeuh8P55gWEZxsW4OHCkVRz8865agrFASOQGQiJCALTDioIhYKxhQ23X7kraHKJmA3uXh0dLxf4cSmOYT3SrmyD7-sFRgc_RHUIttrNg4zPU/s1600-h/180-6+-+Beautiful+Andes+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRrdkm_X5Iw24NEktTZjJ-3735BfX8Y0yAfeuh8P55gWEZxsW4OHCkVRz8865agrFASOQGQiJCALTDioIhYKxhQ23X7kraHKJmA3uXh0dLxf4cSmOYT3SrmyD7-sFRgc_RHUIttrNg4zPU/s400/180-6+-+Beautiful+Andes+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469732234998626" border="0" /></a><br />Did I mention Peru is really pretty<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY2fXTaNIQQn8HC9Lt4RS41EjAewFGbgiwqeSKSS8uo8Y5QP34qDYzup7qyFoVor2oKB-2H2rPS8gF4GSAFsvhRPuILsKYB41zFReeJ2EXjh9SAyjuDNmE3ARCcnK3VBzxULd8zQmYSBdT/s1600-h/180-7+-+Beautiful+Andes+3.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY2fXTaNIQQn8HC9Lt4RS41EjAewFGbgiwqeSKSS8uo8Y5QP34qDYzup7qyFoVor2oKB-2H2rPS8gF4GSAFsvhRPuILsKYB41zFReeJ2EXjh9SAyjuDNmE3ARCcnK3VBzxULd8zQmYSBdT/s400/180-7+-+Beautiful+Andes+3.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469734110517762" border="0" /></a><br />Ditto<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHjWQcPOWDDCsKs7RmIUafymdgkIQ6shnZSuupG9ToD3fC740oxhFQlXma6Ub8apS5AKntYb8aYC_obqEf6CwyBBeQnnC94xD66-NL6L1oStHE6voDpuogNyleuyK1l66mjn_kEgLvv6WU/s1600-h/180-8+-+Andahuaylas.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHjWQcPOWDDCsKs7RmIUafymdgkIQ6shnZSuupG9ToD3fC740oxhFQlXma6Ub8apS5AKntYb8aYC_obqEf6CwyBBeQnnC94xD66-NL6L1oStHE6voDpuogNyleuyK1l66mjn_kEgLvv6WU/s400/180-8+-+Andahuaylas.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469732776992306" border="0" /></a><br />Andahuaylas - day 181<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg_3gOjggzm9Lgs0fLvanJG6SUQmNOuLuDjgDg4uGufWux1DkFhBNtnCbXcYLrv_QT5MmJ0K9c8-05x75DLzLkKO22u4H2b-55F6LFXloolDm6BXC0XJviG0ICfw2PIr-94Pn6MFrGi00a/s1600-h/181-1+-+Pleasant+Folks.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg_3gOjggzm9Lgs0fLvanJG6SUQmNOuLuDjgDg4uGufWux1DkFhBNtnCbXcYLrv_QT5MmJ0K9c8-05x75DLzLkKO22u4H2b-55F6LFXloolDm6BXC0XJviG0ICfw2PIr-94Pn6MFrGi00a/s400/181-1+-+Pleasant+Folks.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469500286363026" border="0" /></a><br />Friendly folks who let me stay... (182)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkUge-_3ohpN_4xfDDZd2iqJDnn_uAt9Vd3pVC9YWQg2ohiw0vj8n063NYEnc-E9LfO2zLX_-XNvBiY65uhY2EQCYJYivvP-iPA-x_5fwA8Q-LD6VQ9Bh2pz8HxDmrCiePbQX0-h927mAU/s1600-h/181-2+-+Home+Last+Night.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkUge-_3ohpN_4xfDDZd2iqJDnn_uAt9Vd3pVC9YWQg2ohiw0vj8n063NYEnc-E9LfO2zLX_-XNvBiY65uhY2EQCYJYivvP-iPA-x_5fwA8Q-LD6VQ9Bh2pz8HxDmrCiePbQX0-h927mAU/s400/181-2+-+Home+Last+Night.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469500339534002" border="0" /></a><br />here - ya takes what ya can gets<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQrwkuqC3V-T-GBqLwHd6Z9k8RqKO_EDjhS9ZiIE5ElpEC0T1frLZaLTLNoc1OJlUif-CIpm65tCtTtg7llzfwlPgT4hS2QLUbT2HY5iiI-Id8oI5evLvT8bdaXaz9362XvQnma6SXck/s1600-h/181-3+-+Cyclists+are+everywhere.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQrwkuqC3V-T-GBqLwHd6Z9k8RqKO_EDjhS9ZiIE5ElpEC0T1frLZaLTLNoc1OJlUif-CIpm65tCtTtg7llzfwlPgT4hS2QLUbT2HY5iiI-Id8oI5evLvT8bdaXaz9362XvQnma6SXck/s400/181-3+-+Cyclists+are+everywhere.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469506861023474" border="0" /></a><br />Markus and Heidi - the friendly Austrians with 8 months or so to go<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju2hzZfHmnv1Af2VZt3PAp94zoe-iDMdF9t8HW9EU2vE9Iuiits9Tejn1gb1944RcU2_Q642Kk5bmhaxmSFSv-u9dFwZhwADgI7JMnVf1FHkYNGQIs0Tjmt5N0VH33V9_S0avjSwM6cGU/s1600-h/181-4+-+Sleet.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju2hzZfHmnv1Af2VZt3PAp94zoe-iDMdF9t8HW9EU2vE9Iuiits9Tejn1gb1944RcU2_Q642Kk5bmhaxmSFSv-u9dFwZhwADgI7JMnVf1FHkYNGQIs0Tjmt5N0VH33V9_S0avjSwM6cGU/s400/181-4+-+Sleet.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469505676864546" border="0" /></a><br />Afternoon sleet<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVjX79-W6Jf7woQo20uAiO8lLOLqc8syLj4E0j2ZmATrejL3PdhcZHa59v3hRsxPe0-TzMY6ah1_v4GT6etZ5MM4izjkCYvSuJFow_Hmet7CxqKlTAHprZlEgSf1_e2NqNzFxntMKhyphenhyphenqCe/s1600-h/181-5+-+Road+and+Sky.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVjX79-W6Jf7woQo20uAiO8lLOLqc8syLj4E0j2ZmATrejL3PdhcZHa59v3hRsxPe0-TzMY6ah1_v4GT6etZ5MM4izjkCYvSuJFow_Hmet7CxqKlTAHprZlEgSf1_e2NqNzFxntMKhyphenhyphenqCe/s400/181-5+-+Road+and+Sky.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250469505889570498" border="0" /></a><br />Glorious sunshine on the way down to... (see next week)<br /><br /><br />Day 176 -<br />Well, where do you start on a day like today. Early for one thing. Silvio is at my door by around 4:10am just in case I wanted to sleep. And by about 4:45 the 5 of us are stumbling through the dark towards Macchu Pichu. Not quite sure why this early - if we were out for a photo session it would make sense, but in the event our guide talks merrily through the sunrise - which is quite an amazing spectacle.<br /><br />At any rate, this part of the trip is quite different - Silvio parts ways with us on the streets of Aguas Calientes and we hike alone to Macchu Pichu - about 90min and 450m vertical from the hostal. The loss of guide probably has to do with the fact that we get a new guide and a new group - about 25 of us in all - and Ricardo, our new guide, is waiting at the entrance gate. The hike is a bit tricky in the dark but easy enough with flashlights (bring one) and by around 5:30 the dawn twilight suffices. At least the multitude of stars signals that we should have a good sunrise.<br /><br />By 6:30-ish we're in - and there's plenty of others here either in tour groups or near the summit waiting for the sunrise. The entrance gate is where you can optionally have your passport stamped - but they don't do it during peak entry times so try to remember to return at some point (unlike yours truly).<br /><br />The first impression is just amazing. A town and walled-in cultivation plots which housed an estimated 500 Inca elites and a couple hundred extra during festivities - but the most amazing thing is the location - perched about 450m above the valley floor on a ridge with terraced plots running down the both sides. After trekking along the valley floor all around the site, it's not hard to see how the Spanish never found it - it's only visible from the valley floor in a couple locations and when the last few Incas retreated here they sabotaged the connecting Inca trails and later continued their flight into the jungles further north.<br /><br />While locals knew of its location, it wasn't "discovered" by the West until around 1910 when Hiram Bingham came looking for lost cities of the Incas and was shown the overgrown ruins by a local. The current appearance didn't start to take shape until the '40's and uncovering the ruins lasted right up to the 80's (there's still a lot of excavating going on at Inca sites all over Peru - a bit like Egypt I suppose).<br /><br />The tour takes you through various religious and architectural aspects of the site and while I find the history amazing, some of the information seems to be, well, let's say generous to the Incas. Our guide waxed about the site of MP - how the profile of nearby Wayna Pichu peak appears to be an Inca face, or a bear, or a falcon... There is a pretty neat, bordering on optical illusion, 3-D sculpture of a falcon within MP - where the 2 wings are natural rock faces and the face is carved into the floor. I often wonder how much of our assumptions of how ancient societies lived is based on pretty slim evidence.<br /><br />A few fairly incontrovertible facts are that Incas deformed the heads of nobility - almost making them look like coneheads - by attaching boards to the skull during formative years. Another is that they performed brain surgery using coca as an anesthetic - there are quite a few skulls with large holes cut in them. There was also some human sacrifice, but our guide is at pains to inform us that the Incas did this quite rarely and much less frequently than previous tribes of the region. I videoed his talks until my phone died, then discovered that the biggest video of about 30min somehow never recorded properly. Oh well.<br /><br />But back to MP - the site is huge. After 2 hours the tour is over and we're basically on our own all the way back to Cusco. I decide to hike up Wayna Pichu - about a 400m climb which is dotted with Inca ruins - if you want to try this, go right away after your tour (or better yet before) and pick up a free ticket - only 400 people a day are given a ticket and they're gone by around 9am. Besides the very impressive, although somewhat repetitive, site itself, there are about 4 trips you can take - Wayna Pichu, the Inca bridge, Cerro Macchu Pichu, and the Sun Gate. I take in all except Cerro which is a 3-4 hour hike up the highest mountain overlooking the site - it'd be quite a rush to try to do them all in a single visit (and a 2nd entry is only possible for another full admission).<br /><br />Wayna Pichu is a fairly challenging hike and not for those with vertigo but the views from the top are outstanding - not just MP but also of the snowy peaks beyond. From there you can continue down the backside to the cave and Temple of the Moon, although these were somewhat disappointing and quite a hike at that (you drop almost 600m to get from the summit to the cave, then have to climb back up to return to MP). But the return trail seems like another section of Inca trail - a narrow line of rocky trail impossibly attached to a vertical cliff face. Budget a couple of hours for the round trip.<br /><br />The trail to the Inca Bridge is similar - lots of cliffs again, although the bridge itself isn't really much to look at. But you get good views of the distant, now abandoned, Inca trails and can ponder just how they built this stuff. It's a fairly short hike - I hiked the round trip in under 30min at a good pace.<br /><br />Finally the trail to the Sun Gate is probably the easiest and least vertigo-inducing. The views back towards MP are good and at the gate you get to look down the "classic" Inca Trail that the lucky trekkers get to use. An impressive site and hopefully on some possible return I might come this way as well. It's a moderate length hike & I'd budget a bit over an hour round trip.<br /><br />And then time's up, a final hike down to the canyon floor to meet up with the gang again over a very late lunch (for me), and a late train ride back to Ollantaytambo. Next time I'll try to arrange for an earlier train as I basically sleep through this ride (it's already dark). And then we're off the train and thrown into a fairly chaotic market scene on your way out. We're on the lookout for Lucy buses and eventually find them, except they're not interested in us - somebody forgot to put a sticker on our train tickets which means we're not supposed to be riding with them. But as they don't check for this until after we get on the bus and the 5 of us aren't inclined to leave and procure our own transport, after several minutes of debate the desire for everyone to get back to Cusco overrides the desire to throw us out.<br /><br />So we make it back to town and sure enough, my travel agent, where my bike should be waiting for me and which assured me they'd be open when I get back, is closed. Tomorrow should be interesting.<br /><br />Day 177 - Cusco reloaded<br />Well, yesterday's closed tourist shop was a bad omen. I get a decent night's sleep and head out around 9-ish to collect my bike - they're open every day, except apparently today. So I have breakfast instead - it is a Sunday, maybe they start later. Find a nice place with WiFi and get some work done as well. OK, try this again - head back to the hostal past the office and - still closed. Bear in mind there are about 5-6 shops in this little arcade and there are now quite a few irate folks waiting outside - apparently it's supposed to be open. I talk to a few folks and before long they fetch the tourist shop guy who's just around the corner. Hmmm, oh yeah, my bike. Turns out the owner of the arcade had a late night with a bit too much social lubricant and is apparently in no position to unlock the arcade this morning. So various crafts stores and my tourist office won't be open for business any time soon.<br /><br />But not to worry - my bike, surprise, surprise, isn't at the tourist office - no it's still in storage. A phone call later it's on its way. I buy a few souvenirs and when I return there it is, waiting for me. Only problem is I also had an Ortlieb bag with my helmet, gloves, repair kit, etc. Hmmm, a phone call later and the guy from the warehouse is on his way. He's going to explain to me, in person, why I can't have my Ortlieb bag. Turns out it's in a different room at the warehouse and the only person with the key to that room is off in a different town to some kind of race. It is Sunday, after all.<br /><br />Oh well, basically no chance of leaving today, so by early afternoon I get to do a few more odds and ends, walk around, head to the Inca monument, take a few pics, and get ready for tomorrow. By 7pm the bag finally arrives so tomorrow will be it. This complicates things - I'm already way behind and really can't afford to lose another day. Stuff happens I guess - somehow I was sceptical about this working smoothly - in general the more folks at places like tourist agencies assure me that something is "no problem" the more I assume it is. Need to force a few more phone calls next time - but still glad I was able to use my bike for the downhill and didn't have to deal with storing it - have heard of problems doing this and my hostel lady didn't seem too keen on the idea anyway.<br /><br />Day 178 -<br />With last night's arrival of my Ortlieb bag I'm finally set to leave Cusco. Just a few final errands - nice breakfast with WiFi to upload all those pictures I got the chance to process on my involuntary day off. And a quick dash to the post office to mail the DVD of Cusco and Macchu Pichu in case I'm relieved of all my possessions in the last few days ahead.<br /><br />And by 11 or so I'm hitting the road again. Cusco is a great place to explore - quite a few possibilities exist in the surrounding area - mountain treks to jungle, but my time is short.<br /><br />The road climbs out of town to Abancay, the coast, and Lima. You're out of town pretty quickly - much faster than the drawn out city when arriving from Puno.<br /><br />It's a bit of a climb, but after 300m vertical, you summit and are on a high plain. After 15km or so the road to the Sacred Valley splits off - keep left for Abancay. The next stretch to 40km from Cusco is pleasant enough - just be sure to go to the bathroom when you get a chance. I'm looking forward to a pit stop, lunch, and a nice draft of water.<br /><br />Instead, I end up on what seems to to be an endless uphill populated by perfectly spaced groups of school-age kids. I pick up the first contingent. I'm already hoarse, so conversation is limited. I don't dare stop - I'll probably get mobbed for information and candy. So I keep going and one group falls back and is replaced by the next - some run alongside, others point out how slow I am by cycling circles around me. I'm not really surprised, but do get annoyed when one boy grabs a strap of my backpack for a free ride. I recommend not showing up here around 3pm when school lets out.<br /><br />Every time I think I've dropped a group, the next shows up - this goes on for about 10km and 400m vertical - or about 50min. Finally, I reach a kind of tollbooth situated at a summit of sorts and my world changes.<br /><br />The high plain and annoying schoolkids are replaced with deep green valleys and a road that snakes away out of sight. I'm at around 3700m now and the next 50km will be awesome. Time for a long overdue pitstop and lunch break.<br /><br />What follows is 50km of downhill - from pass, to valley floor, to small town, and again to ridge and another downhill - until finally it all peters out at a bridge about 100km from Cusco and down to about 1900m. This is gonna cost me - but not until tomorrow.<br /><br />It's already getting a bit late and while I'm thinking of camping, out of nowhere this hotel just shows up - all by itself in the middle of nowhere. Well, this is even better than camping - and they even have food. I appear to be the only guest, but all goes well and I have a trout dinner and dream of unending uphills...<br /><br />Day 179 -<br /><br />2100m<br /><br />2100m<br /><br />Well, that sense of foreboding at dropping 1700m over 50km of downhill proved to be accurate. Today was probably one of the hardest days of cycling I've had. Well, maybe not quite true, but total vertical climbed far surpassed the 2nd most vertical day on this trip at around 1600m. Today was basically yesterday afternoon in reverse - start at the very bottom (almost, I did climb a bit after crossing the river yesterday), and head up, and up, and up... I somehow think town is around 2900m so I secretly hope that the road will be this amazingly gradual climb of 1000m up to another valley. I even hope to make it past Abancay to the next town about 40-50km down gravel.<br /><br />And after 20km (about 122 from Cusco) and 800m vertical, you do actually emerge from the inner canyon into the first and only bigger town of today - Curahuasi. This would be a decent, if quite challenging, long day ride from Cusco and I'm pretty sure there are a few Hospedajes around given the multitude of decent looking restaurants I see.<br /><br />But that's just the start. After a brief downhill, the upward trajectory returns and you do another 200m vertical and another 5km and take a break then another 200m vertical ... well you get the idea. Another valley floor, another climb to a higher plain. Switchback after switchback and finally, after 53km and five and 1/2 hours of cycle time of just about continuous climbing between 3-6%, you're at the top and right around 4000m. While the trip to here actually covers some ground, from the top you immediately see Abancay directly below you, only the road to get there hugs the side of the mountain and via dozens and dozens of switchbacks you cover the 30 road km and 1600m to drop into town. So in all today is about 3700-3800m of vertical over 90km or about 4% average grade all day long.<br /><br />By now it's around 5pm and I'm in no shape to continue. Just looking forward to a nice, easy evening and the Hostal Victoria on the main street (Arequipa 305) near downtown (across and a few doors down from the BCP) is just the spot. Clean rooms and hot showers for S/15 ($5). From here there's an internet cafe, food market, and probably the best steak I've had in months all within a 2 minute walk (near the junction of the main road from Cusco and Arequipa my hostal street - first word in the name is Carbon - look for a big sign showing grilled meat - just a fabulous Lomo with pimiento - pepper sauce - and even a free salad bar - just the thing to return a few calories after today's climb).<br /><br />Well, time for some well-deserved rest - tomorrow is shaping up to be another killer long day as I head back to ripio for the road to Ayacucho.<br /><br />Day 180 -<br />72.3km, 9.4av,, 55.2mx, 2143m, 7:40 to 22106km, 150.8km<br />Half a year - at least for those who issue warranties or track prepapid phone credits. Been down here quite awhile now, but things are drawing to a close rather quickly. Peru is growing on me - unfortunately I won't be able to spend much quality time here. But trying to cycle as far as possible each day is tiring - especially in this highly vertical part of the world. The views here are just amazing - peaks over 6000m and valleys down to 1700m visible at the same time. Snow, pine trees, and sugar cane.<br /><br />But it sure makes for tough cycling - the only way to follow up the most vertical day of the trip is more of the same - even more vertical meters today and today we'll do it on gravel thank you very much.<br /><br />Just as I finish packing my bike, the first person I encounter is a policeman. He pretty much tells me to turn around and chill for another day, or possibly later, perhaps this afternoon. Today the Peruvians protest. Hmmm, more complications. One of the tour operators had suggesting booking right away as the trains would be on strike on the 9th. That would be today. Well, at least they're on schedule - roadblocks and lots of people out... So we talk for awhile and finally I ask him whether it's currently "tranquil" and he say it probably is - but I should hurry. So I lose no time and bike out of Abancay. The streets are eerily empty and I see a few groups of policemen, complete with rifles. Hopefully they won't be put to use today. But no real road-blocks, just an occasional odd glance as I cruise down Abancay's streets out of town. They seem to take their protests more seriously here, Bolivia's had more of an almost party atmosphere but no friendly faces chowing down on something here. At least not at 8am.<br /><br />And down it is - Abancay is above yet another river valley and for 15km I have a really pleasant morning. Then reality strikes and I hit the bottom. There's a sign with the word "Puente" (bridge) and I ask a nearby person about the road to Andahuaylas. Yeah, I can go either way - the sign points down a rough gravel road and I see across the valley a diagonal up the mountainside connecting with a bigger road higher up. This seems like the appropriate choice as I'm warned there are probably more roadblocks at the "real" junction. So it's off of pavimento for the next 350km or so and the start is rough - tough gravel and lots of sand flies looking for a meal if you let your speed drop too far.<br /><br />After a km or two through sugarcane plantations and new and abandoned houses, there it is - an ancient looking stone arch bridge across the fairly violent current below. It also has a blockade of sorts - big rocks on both sides of the bridge effectively permit only small things to cross.<br /><br />So this is bottom. 1700m.<br /><br />The rest of the day will be spent getting away from here. Up one switchback after another. I see the first ridge and after another 90min or so in pretty good heat, I clear it to reach the first pueblito of the day - about 10 houses aligned along this only street. Another short climb later I get my first challenge - a junction with no useful signage. I ask another local and again, I can go either way. The way to the right is supposed to be "mas circa y mas facil" (more direct and easier), but the left road is a bit bigger and has more tire tracks. Hmmm, I decide to ignore her advice and initially start to regret it as my road climbs higher and higher above her recommendation. But by evening as I cross ridge after ridge, it's clear my road is far more direct with an even grade - her choice takes you to a high pueblo at around 3200m or so, but from there you'd be on some really rough, steep tracks to get back onto my road.<br /><br />It's a common theme of today - I make smalltalk with some of the folks I encounter and, of course, ask about the road ahead. Everyone has an opinion, but the information is pretty useless - "after this last ridge the road is plano" (level - it isn't, perhaps a tad less steep, but still uphill). One person tells me Andahuaylas is about 6km away (probably closer to 75). I get the impression they really want to help, they just don't know.<br /><br />I'm greeted with cries of Gringo everywhere - one old lady seems especially offended at my existence, although eventually she also succumbs to smalltalk - where I'm from and where I'm heading. In general, it seems the men are more friendly at smalltalk than most of the women I encounter - not sure why. The lady behind a counter in a small shop clearly points out to anyone interested that I can't understand Spanish, although I still manage to hold my own with two gentleman who have entered and sat down for a beer.<br /><br />I do have a pretty hard time understanding the language here in the sticks, the policeman this morning was probably the most comprehensible conversation I had.<br /><br />It's a challenging day - basically, an unending uphill on gravel. Not terrible gravel - everything seems ridable ever since SW-Bolivia - but pretty challenging none the less. But the views are rewarding - Watching Abancay move from above me, to level, to below me, to really far below me with massive, snow-covered peaks popping up behind "mere" 4000m ridge lines. Afternoon and evening are spent above 3000m again and still climbing. The sugarcane is gone, replaced with pine trees and grazing land and all sorts of random animals crossing the road - donkeys, turkeys, goats, you name it.<br /><br />And still the road climbs - a ribbon attached to the side of a mountain. 3500m, 36, 37, eventually I see what I pray is the summit - and with the sun low on the horizon I arrive here. Small towns dot the plains a few hundred meters below with no easy route to them, while this high road continues along at altitude. The pass is right around 3900m and next to it is a small quarry - perfect piles of rock to block sight of my tent from the road while I still get to enjoy dusk (and hopefully dawn) over the mountains and valleys.<br /><br />What a day. Each day seems to get another notch harder (my speedo reads 2143m today, again I suspect it's probably 50-75 low) - I wonder what lies ahead - there can't be even deeper valleys and higher passes, can there? The road from Cusco has been the most vertical of the trip so far. I still cover decent distances, but not nearly enough compared to what's ahead and it's pretty punishing. My horizon keeps shrinking - I wonder if I'll make Trujillo at this point. Time will tell. Hopefully tomorrow I'll break 100km again.<br /><br />Day 181 -<br />88.4 11.8 36.3 947 7:30 to 22195<br />Needless to say, I don't make 100km today. Yeah, this road is tough. Really, really tough. Morning starts out in the clouds, feeling the altitude as holes here and there reveal the small towns below and more distant mountains. Probably my first campsite directly on a pass.<br /><br />Initially things go reasonably well - the first few km are just slightly downhill, then a bit steeper and soon I've descended about 200m, but this was not the real pass. No it's time to climb again - up to around 4150 this time over the course of quite a few km. It's going to be a long day.<br /><br />And then the descent finally begins, only it won't be a pleasant one. Scratch what I wrote yesterday about road conditions. This road is definitely cyclable and easier than SW-Bolivia, but if I were a local, I'd be ashamed to call this a national highway. One of only two which run N-S in Peru (the other is paved but leads to Lima which I want to avoid).<br /><br />It really is quite abysmal. Trucks crawl both up and downhill and I see 2 with flat tires in the course of a few km. I actually manage to pass a crawling truck on rough downhill and a few moments later an Ortlieb pannier snaps off - first time that's happened on the whole trip but it won't be the last time it happens today.<br /><br />A rough road.<br /><br />Fortunately nothing is broken but the truck gets ahead of me again and this ain't an easy place to pass them. Trucks show each other courtesy by pulling over so faster ones can pass, but I'm given no such treatment. So I just pull over and take a break while the truck continues to inch down the hill.<br /><br />Gets me thinking about development. There's something both true and amazingly unfair about the biblical concept of how to those who have much, more will be given and taken from those who have little. When infrastructure is this bad, you end up with vehicle damage, incredible wastage of fuel, and wasted driver hours and yet there probably aren't the resources to build a decent road, or better yet to get a decent topographical survey of this place and build some roads with less elevation changes or maybe even a tunnel or two.<br /><br />You see it everywhere here - water not fit to drink so poor people have to spend even more resources to boil it while the government has to subsidize fuel so poor people can afford it in the first place and again, no resource to provide drinkable water in the first place. Where to start? I think I'd focus on education and trying to instill a drive for quality. It's amazing how few things are actually installed properly down here - people just put up with it, but showers don't work or they give you an electric shock, wiring is totally haphazard, I just look and cringe but again, it's such a waste of resources.<br /><br />But at least Coca Cola gets to do a brisk business in bottled water.<br /><br />Anyway, needless to say the downhill is mostly wasted in heating my rims, by the time I drop 1200m or so, my average speed is all of about 12.5km/h. I've had faster uphills. And of course on reaching bottom it's time to go up again. But by now I've already cycled 6 hours and it's well past lunchtime. I manage to find a little diner in Andahuaylas and have a much needed meal, but there's still a few hours left in the day so I continue. I really can't let afternoons go to waste anymore. So it's back to gravel and back to climbing. I make the next town after a couple hours and ask about a place to stay. This particular police post was probably the least helpful or friendly I've had on the whole trip. The helpfully point out that they're a police post and not a hostal. Then tell me there's no place in town to stay and finally that I should head back the way I just came for the last 2 hours - there's rooms in Andahuaylas.<br /><br />As I thank them and leave, I'm pretty sure they're joking and laughing about me with other locals. About the least welcoming place I've been to. I try a local business but they're equally unhelpful so I continue. I really don't mind camping but try to either do so in full view and with local permission or completely hidden in the backcountry and the latter is hard to find around here. Fortunately, a km away or so I find a much friendlier business owner who offers a vacant building across the street where I'm now typing these words. So far Peruvians seem to come in roughly 3 flavors - the tourist savvy entrepreneur, the friendly local, and the f$*&-you Gringo type. I guess I just need to get used to it.<br /><br />Well, did cover some ground today but not really enough. Tomorrow will be another tough one - the rest of the trip will I guess. At least the scenery continues to be spectacular. This part of the world is truly amazing - it just requires you to cross one mountain range after the next. Anyway, time for bed.<br /><br />Day 182 -<br /><br />Been falling a bit behind on my log again - been hard to put in the long days, keep up with all the odds and ends each evening, and make these entries. Currently in a lower-end hostal in Quichuas on day 186 as I make these (hopefully) 4 entries.<br /><br />Anyway, today starts off in the barn - no windows so it's a pretty dark start, but there are quite a few roof tiles missing so some light gets in. The pleasant shop owners who let me stay here last night are already up and about by the time I get out of the barn. The husband comes to offer me coffee and sweet bread (one of the somewhat annoying food things here and in some places in Bolivia is a tendency to put sugar in most bread varieties - although they often taste decent just plain). And I get to try a local fruit - small orange things but I decide they're not my thing. Later when I ask for "kitchen" water (i.e. tap water which is generally not drinkable here, although I have my filter) I get a bit of a tour of the place - more than a bit shocking for me. Used to quite a bit by now, but the store owners share space with a smokey wood firepit as a kitchen, cats, dogs, chickens, and lots and lots of cuy (guinea pigs), all have their pecking order for food (and rats - i.e. catfood - as the owner is keen to point out). I guess it all fits together, but definitely not what I'm used to.<br /><br />She offers me a fuller breakfast which is quite good. Amazing the generousity despite the poverty - she doesn't want anything for breakfast.<br /><br />And it's finally time to continue - still a pretty early start and right back to the uphill I left yesterday. Another big one, although I start near 3000m so it can't be that high, right? Anyway, it continues for quite some distance. I see a tractor out in a field, for me a rarity in Peru - a lot of farm labor appears to still be manual (a lot of labor of all sorts for that matter).<br /><br />As I take my first break I see what I first think is a motorcycle coming down from above - but no it's Markus and Heidi from Austria (www.2roadrunners-on-tour.at) who are 13 months and 22000km into their 18-month epic from Alaska to Argentina. My first fellow Markus on this tour.<br /><br />We exchange information about what lies ahead and they give me a handy list of towns ahead on my route with food and/or lodging. And the climb continues. At 4300m I finally summit and my phone promptly dies. I've been trying to faithfully track these amazing roads on GPS using my phone. I get out the electronic gear and nada, I just can't get it to accept a charge. Meanwhile the clouds move in and it starts to rain, then it starts to sleet. OK, no GPS for the rest of today.<br /><br />But it's all downhill from here. Down and down and down. Through the odd town, beautiful scenery, cries of Gringo, and chasing dogs. Standard Peru. The downhill helps with the km count. By evening I'm pretty much at bottom, ready for tomorrow's certain climb (I now have the Austrian cheat sheet).<br /><br />From the summit's 2C and sleet it's warmed up to around 28C or so. But it's getting dark and there's one more call of "Gringo" but this one is Victor Calderon, a fairly friendly fellow with his family around so I stop and talk and within a few sentences I have a place for my tent (descansar - rest - is an important palabre - word - in these situations). Tonight is probably the poorest household I've met on the whole trip - there's electricity connected to their rough adobe shack but it's not on, too expensive. Life is by candlelight and LED-flashlight, an interesting mix. But they still offer to share what they have.<br /><br />The stuff I unpack is quite the show - a portable gasoline stove and the rest of what will become dinner. Water and washing is via the irrigation stream which flows in front of the house. I also use it to wash off a layer of dust which pretty much covers everything quite quickly on these roads - it's hard to get over how much fine dust is on these roads - somehow in the switchbacks you end up with inches of the stuff. I don't get in my log entry but do finally get some charge back into the phone (the connection to my extra battery broke).Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-58122641270946447492008-09-26T13:36:00.000-07:002008-09-26T15:37:34.813-07:00Week 25 - Peru - Puno - CuscoWell, after a long interruption, the final trip entries are here. Week 25 I finally make it into Peru and to Cusco. In theory I'll eventually move the pictures and comments around, but for now:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrQPGAzqTqcTUC-0nNIgWcGuRnFNpfc8vaL-yphyXEosLjDB8tCik6rTPS2w_9dwhrLih_r-B84uq70tBd2Jqo2Nlo-lPJldovyqghFefgbip_0DNKGYAsR6VrdybSxDuFRBuozhPItgIl/s1600-h/169-1+Puno+and+Fishing.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrQPGAzqTqcTUC-0nNIgWcGuRnFNpfc8vaL-yphyXEosLjDB8tCik6rTPS2w_9dwhrLih_r-B84uq70tBd2Jqo2Nlo-lPJldovyqghFefgbip_0DNKGYAsR6VrdybSxDuFRBuozhPItgIl/s400/169-1+Puno+and+Fishing.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250458277053993570" border="0" /></a><br />Lake Titicaca near Puno - day 169<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrbNaROF7eeYju13pYHEbV0Pjti8tHr_Bv54oneX4BRP7BzizJ71Qg3-wsD1BsJZULSlIgHZLhSVYf0dHQwYl_arj9SF3w_1Qk7zk-QO7yI2pSiMDliGf7hi3P084N5EJdvj_NC0Rbl_aL/s1600-h/169-2+Downtown+Puno.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrbNaROF7eeYju13pYHEbV0Pjti8tHr_Bv54oneX4BRP7BzizJ71Qg3-wsD1BsJZULSlIgHZLhSVYf0dHQwYl_arj9SF3w_1Qk7zk-QO7yI2pSiMDliGf7hi3P084N5EJdvj_NC0Rbl_aL/s400/169-2+Downtown+Puno.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250458277056593746" border="0" /></a><br />Downtown Puno<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir2xwKOXM7SVvPmw79TI-uuN3GksRm6hbpLuOWChcK0rMNqTTKIo86ua0BfNahLVVy9gMBTvgJZxDjQM2zh_PtbA0zWQO5IDUcXzeXxixgrgvY9JR1xa5ULGySfe96HzMr6l04qcE71mxn/s1600-h/170-1+Altiplano+Peru.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir2xwKOXM7SVvPmw79TI-uuN3GksRm6hbpLuOWChcK0rMNqTTKIo86ua0BfNahLVVy9gMBTvgJZxDjQM2zh_PtbA0zWQO5IDUcXzeXxixgrgvY9JR1xa5ULGySfe96HzMr6l04qcE71mxn/s400/170-1+Altiplano+Peru.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250458284026360658" border="0" /></a><br />The Altiplano - Day 170<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZIqwSHUd1HB5ADjexhYcWslwLDQ2v-v8z8HkmazcIqy7Zj5gUg0r7A-7Qa70dcofo9Ar4bb5mpuGaHq05oUZ-1hH0uu99HX4hBIvKssTuUBxP8GXqqhgJmRJ7JxVyWi9ZnLu5oquTsEIc/s1600-h/170-2+Abra+la+Raya.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZIqwSHUd1HB5ADjexhYcWslwLDQ2v-v8z8HkmazcIqy7Zj5gUg0r7A-7Qa70dcofo9Ar4bb5mpuGaHq05oUZ-1hH0uu99HX4hBIvKssTuUBxP8GXqqhgJmRJ7JxVyWi9ZnLu5oquTsEIc/s400/170-2+Abra+la+Raya.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250458282436747394" border="0" /></a><br />Caption included<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDyhNzSpBnhQAK0zUCgaufvcKFKWNvB_TA-M9ATnxhPVjGPf7ZkV61IeRqeNFCl8d_vGYsbAZiq6tOn3IPUgW12kUhu3uyrhA-y_inWX0RCfq3ATdahkKYjij7j6gYrbWmtaWovKjoWHgP/s1600-h/170-3+To+Sicuani.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDyhNzSpBnhQAK0zUCgaufvcKFKWNvB_TA-M9ATnxhPVjGPf7ZkV61IeRqeNFCl8d_vGYsbAZiq6tOn3IPUgW12kUhu3uyrhA-y_inWX0RCfq3ATdahkKYjij7j6gYrbWmtaWovKjoWHgP/s400/170-3+To+Sicuani.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250458284858819010" border="0" /></a><br />Heading into Sicuani<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij1iKeD3mpu_81ppA9nWzGkw1I2hQuJj6kA03EA0D7EmR89p_xjNoTQc1bSKrQUbgF03Be8OsKXRgRDWlQ7R8UU07HJJbNtzWDTuETsqljN9jKS5VpVQmYvdmhkWXwT_CNc7hWp_aOOYRO/s1600-h/171-1+Good+Morning+Sicuani.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij1iKeD3mpu_81ppA9nWzGkw1I2hQuJj6kA03EA0D7EmR89p_xjNoTQc1bSKrQUbgF03Be8OsKXRgRDWlQ7R8UU07HJJbNtzWDTuETsqljN9jKS5VpVQmYvdmhkWXwT_CNc7hWp_aOOYRO/s400/171-1+Good+Morning+Sicuani.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250457534980632626" border="0" /></a><br />Good Morning Sicuani - day 171<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvdWCq9vBNatw2qZ5RWBvGIMEsSfC2yBlYBHdhhdHgEvWlHhkIaNGflJwU3JpSKtaxSluCboKhqfhAqQTerdOJUb8Pueh-DsS1QuNdyH6yAjs_ohv-2nG76nTaynkIxzsXjbjwwCKMTqHb/s1600-h/171-2+Inca+Dam.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvdWCq9vBNatw2qZ5RWBvGIMEsSfC2yBlYBHdhhdHgEvWlHhkIaNGflJwU3JpSKtaxSluCboKhqfhAqQTerdOJUb8Pueh-DsS1QuNdyH6yAjs_ohv-2nG76nTaynkIxzsXjbjwwCKMTqHb/s400/171-2+Inca+Dam.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250457535408717922" border="0" /></a><br />The Inca Dam of Tipon<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi7GVZMOkKEaK-kV3Km1R6fjE-HKg7TF8l9L7qWOoe9La91Jsyx61PKZk_hMEeDbWQlJ9SrAo7NQ5d0FsulHPudye1Vyirg4cZNfV13hfUe4pUZ-JeE6gteZxOAvX9Ck84PEk21kS5veME/s1600-h/171-3+Cusco+at+night.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi7GVZMOkKEaK-kV3Km1R6fjE-HKg7TF8l9L7qWOoe9La91Jsyx61PKZk_hMEeDbWQlJ9SrAo7NQ5d0FsulHPudye1Vyirg4cZNfV13hfUe4pUZ-JeE6gteZxOAvX9Ck84PEk21kS5veME/s400/171-3+Cusco+at+night.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250457534738193410" border="0" /></a><br />Colonial Cusco at night<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUkcTgMIJM7ps06n7wZfv9L3MV4ib1qwUqsMOwzOozc8TlS1fYxKmz32hYmfxdvOHpwNIzDaIVjY8djPCmvUo6nwcAoElizYOXxgSt6I8OI10EWvCphyphenhyphenTGfzryldEikjxph-p_IwEuT3Fr/s1600-h/172-2+Inca+Fountain.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUkcTgMIJM7ps06n7wZfv9L3MV4ib1qwUqsMOwzOozc8TlS1fYxKmz32hYmfxdvOHpwNIzDaIVjY8djPCmvUo6nwcAoElizYOXxgSt6I8OI10EWvCphyphenhyphenTGfzryldEikjxph-p_IwEuT3Fr/s400/172-2+Inca+Fountain.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250457541899768258" border="0" /></a><br />The Inca Bath / Fountain - Day 172<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGyF6Gyf6KuZDFJTKMtDRLX7qxxIFhhi8HKpdqvUIf8BPeffuuTdiQHbJTNSR7kqRPKzg-bPxDqYEXNJb3f2LuvBQ7QHJQyFBw2pVqChM2YGJEavBveOKDrd6ZHpHsz5nWcQY41ZWZ-ku/s1600-h/172-1+Crowded+Cusco.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGyF6Gyf6KuZDFJTKMtDRLX7qxxIFhhi8HKpdqvUIf8BPeffuuTdiQHbJTNSR7kqRPKzg-bPxDqYEXNJb3f2LuvBQ7QHJQyFBw2pVqChM2YGJEavBveOKDrd6ZHpHsz5nWcQY41ZWZ-ku/s400/172-1+Crowded+Cusco.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250457540484637666" border="0" /></a><br />Cusco from on high (this should be moved up one)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDELYrvfVUDJHm4LkKNJGh2UZbRiN3D48asC9_8EiZfzvFhyyD2YdZok0E2UL4Lhl7yqKQfiPMv9g-aIVAb7qIPrD1YL-RARa5GldrAOB1IV5RcY7qIyNFRr00NckQj7pjKL6fFIr9BKFk/s1600-h/172-3+Peruvian+Sales+Force.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDELYrvfVUDJHm4LkKNJGh2UZbRiN3D48asC9_8EiZfzvFhyyD2YdZok0E2UL4Lhl7yqKQfiPMv9g-aIVAb7qIPrD1YL-RARa5GldrAOB1IV5RcY7qIyNFRr00NckQj7pjKL6fFIr9BKFk/s400/172-3+Peruvian+Sales+Force.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250457143139007202" border="0" /></a><br />Colorful Vendors near the fountain<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVMEGO0lN7QRSFFgfLceyNjxc-oEe-bN8f3Gks4CgJWL7tttIYfDphrc-L2Tgs7L65JFm-Us5LLVLUqXo7hzbHettNQAQ0q8REwSLZ0GAmuuq1mn7mfs4GDgkjWrPnFuTTTte0xntg7kPW/s1600-h/172-4+Beautiful+Handcrafts.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVMEGO0lN7QRSFFgfLceyNjxc-oEe-bN8f3Gks4CgJWL7tttIYfDphrc-L2Tgs7L65JFm-Us5LLVLUqXo7hzbHettNQAQ0q8REwSLZ0GAmuuq1mn7mfs4GDgkjWrPnFuTTTte0xntg7kPW/s400/172-4+Beautiful+Handcrafts.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250457146103659730" border="0" /></a><br />Amazing rugs<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpLDG7B7QF_n6KyBxNdhhr9bD_A0BCenxmxDBiGY1LeM8oxyT5K__cJrAoIjB3_wPfwgSPwU-HtP3RyA9asmPfwj-jX2pGGMCO0JSZWSBbMHhmG1dX9bOQEQ84mTTqplbkwMHkOiLZ664y/s1600-h/172-5+Inca+Stairs.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpLDG7B7QF_n6KyBxNdhhr9bD_A0BCenxmxDBiGY1LeM8oxyT5K__cJrAoIjB3_wPfwgSPwU-HtP3RyA9asmPfwj-jX2pGGMCO0JSZWSBbMHhmG1dX9bOQEQ84mTTqplbkwMHkOiLZ664y/s400/172-5+Inca+Stairs.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250457145035934658" border="0" /></a><br />Inca Stairwell at the bath<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMwdNT6rfyn06Gdke3UsCaJhzKc4ynuajOqGQULU17UNy85O7YA5kSuQhjQrf4R9JVyN-DdgGI1Re9KBXl2gY1WOHyFcYp_6hs-uYzcJDXVEBV19yOR_ZWvhplXfDINPEfOpcYyC0AV_rg/s1600-h/172-6+Inca+Fortress+across+the+street.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMwdNT6rfyn06Gdke3UsCaJhzKc4ynuajOqGQULU17UNy85O7YA5kSuQhjQrf4R9JVyN-DdgGI1Re9KBXl2gY1WOHyFcYp_6hs-uYzcJDXVEBV19yOR_ZWvhplXfDINPEfOpcYyC0AV_rg/s400/172-6+Inca+Fortress+across+the+street.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250457147765843506" border="0" /></a><br />Pukapukara - the fortress across the road from the bath<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzPMwhY5qaVy8i7cYW1ISI6HalXibRTRDE83HN3roLKfZwPcg7xLQTCJzjBoTPTgSxqdXW9Mo7767iBAy-YFaqxV3vi7kRJNAnTWVUie8qKA48G9cx9P2Z9OzMYbnzfACGt-tGv7KoiRG/s1600-h/172-7+Excavations+at+lunar+temple.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzPMwhY5qaVy8i7cYW1ISI6HalXibRTRDE83HN3roLKfZwPcg7xLQTCJzjBoTPTgSxqdXW9Mo7767iBAy-YFaqxV3vi7kRJNAnTWVUie8qKA48G9cx9P2Z9OzMYbnzfACGt-tGv7KoiRG/s400/172-7+Excavations+at+lunar+temple.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250457148604788722" border="0" /></a><br />Excavations at the lunar temple near Q'enqo<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvaoErEY00Le06uoFFdFOlT5ftePp0Ru1KBcMnQEF5v5eEef5cL3Ndp3M04-8CdqeKilD2UjlQSpODydWVjN5lFAb4rWbeEXhVxJXNpGXod67ZHdDP7-39KW88J1Rl2fppVjAEcknuV_vI/s1600-h/172-8+-+Passage+at+Q%27enqo.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvaoErEY00Le06uoFFdFOlT5ftePp0Ru1KBcMnQEF5v5eEef5cL3Ndp3M04-8CdqeKilD2UjlQSpODydWVjN5lFAb4rWbeEXhVxJXNpGXod67ZHdDP7-39KW88J1Rl2fppVjAEcknuV_vI/s400/172-8+-+Passage+at+Q%27enqo.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250454303050361938" border="0" /></a><br />neat passage at Q'enqo<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiwr5EonFqEEtKnYwKF13Ptksjsl31BI0Tx9nuM5InQLThf6Sdqqm9vUYpWs2QWdVIi-FRngTcCEw-NUhi_iq_QONN3plXA4b-LZmvh1cPTv5YGGWIYV3Wbf2SQEoK8DYaLWiVr8wHcK9a/s1600-h/172-9+-+Sachsayhuaman+1.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiwr5EonFqEEtKnYwKF13Ptksjsl31BI0Tx9nuM5InQLThf6Sdqqm9vUYpWs2QWdVIi-FRngTcCEw-NUhi_iq_QONN3plXA4b-LZmvh1cPTv5YGGWIYV3Wbf2SQEoK8DYaLWiVr8wHcK9a/s400/172-9+-+Sachsayhuaman+1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250454304676740290" border="0" /></a><br />Sexy Woman - Sachsayhuaman 1<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXepqaPSzyVQ-ECvTI3P88q0Xy7T44oW2V-c7Ob6KI_1ncjiWchubzso0TzrFU3sdgGB4yy3BxNvFzdGUiN0wsNbeFMlrFBjQMg1Vnm1PKPsiW_Qw8_26-znfD__oVtUbSGDRLkFoQaTGn/s1600-h/172-10+-+Sachsayhuaman+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXepqaPSzyVQ-ECvTI3P88q0Xy7T44oW2V-c7Ob6KI_1ncjiWchubzso0TzrFU3sdgGB4yy3BxNvFzdGUiN0wsNbeFMlrFBjQMg1Vnm1PKPsiW_Qw8_26-znfD__oVtUbSGDRLkFoQaTGn/s400/172-10+-+Sachsayhuaman+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250454305309354962" border="0" /></a><br />Sachsayhuaman 2<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-ZG_BZ7tgLkYgKiNRlYVG2NOpqOjkmaF6sv7KvsHzQK6rKYqQHVjYods3gIAt6-8xt1nvWJLpe9gVX_Dmmk6VeEJN2olLE7Nk_WcvAypwb5CUr1lDbSMmRzBEAPrrz-FhcwW88RcPoZW/s1600-h/172-11+-+Sachsayhuaman+3.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-ZG_BZ7tgLkYgKiNRlYVG2NOpqOjkmaF6sv7KvsHzQK6rKYqQHVjYods3gIAt6-8xt1nvWJLpe9gVX_Dmmk6VeEJN2olLE7Nk_WcvAypwb5CUr1lDbSMmRzBEAPrrz-FhcwW88RcPoZW/s400/172-11+-+Sachsayhuaman+3.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250454305302078082" border="0" /></a><br />Sachsayhuaman 3<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGsULD4vAX2iRO-qXwRHtH9XeRWZ8ahbdq43ZReoF0KkwwRdvYyPCTz8kLZ68ePYWdwhMjCtV-tKOM2RBsRcPTxRUAfpLCzdkUnEc5sVDsPytjfR-sPYM3miKfJbNCtGodu0lALxDU-aVU/s1600-h/172-12+Back+in+Town.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGsULD4vAX2iRO-qXwRHtH9XeRWZ8ahbdq43ZReoF0KkwwRdvYyPCTz8kLZ68ePYWdwhMjCtV-tKOM2RBsRcPTxRUAfpLCzdkUnEc5sVDsPytjfR-sPYM3miKfJbNCtGodu0lALxDU-aVU/s400/172-12+Back+in+Town.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250454310451504498" border="0" /></a><br />Pack in the main square<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9yUSeKp6alBvczGsrWWT_TkcGIJipA88JGtlPD_oDBEki_FJOVIBaQpQa3C05ezUpfIdk522XIPLvC6prFS36HKEDWzVbwpHJnkwelPmLpCzNKX6uAscc4ckc53YPWFnCs1yr4l5pOlGl/s1600-h/172-13+at+modern+art+museum+1.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9yUSeKp6alBvczGsrWWT_TkcGIJipA88JGtlPD_oDBEki_FJOVIBaQpQa3C05ezUpfIdk522XIPLvC6prFS36HKEDWzVbwpHJnkwelPmLpCzNKX6uAscc4ckc53YPWFnCs1yr4l5pOlGl/s400/172-13+at+modern+art+museum+1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453683129910626" border="0" /></a><br />Works in the modern art museum<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxo8MLE8cJ0ekJbz_f7C6hcwPl3s-V35Fd44bA1r24imVbJr_7iMzFQnqgjdA7Ta12xavcylFM3dxu1_q1B0vd_ViTeWzgWN4CsJk3p3kqr8dtfDPv8GQPgKNxwgS407sttGhGt9ZErzNs/s1600-h/172-14+at+modern+art+museum+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxo8MLE8cJ0ekJbz_f7C6hcwPl3s-V35Fd44bA1r24imVbJr_7iMzFQnqgjdA7Ta12xavcylFM3dxu1_q1B0vd_ViTeWzgWN4CsJk3p3kqr8dtfDPv8GQPgKNxwgS407sttGhGt9ZErzNs/s400/172-14+at+modern+art+museum+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453687555981810" border="0" /></a><br />Ditto<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihq5L2Q5hzfVJ5-m80PznUDqZkRvDu7Ndk6NAopwHRrgB9cj4sahFSembe8Uso_87vtaUDc5637QeSGcPqMpWOCosqSoUlZv-7dhf4G7qp74zbxCW8zlPWbMlI9MMaQzvbFAAtRXeZk-Nv/s1600-h/172-15+at+modern+art+museum+3.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihq5L2Q5hzfVJ5-m80PznUDqZkRvDu7Ndk6NAopwHRrgB9cj4sahFSembe8Uso_87vtaUDc5637QeSGcPqMpWOCosqSoUlZv-7dhf4G7qp74zbxCW8zlPWbMlI9MMaQzvbFAAtRXeZk-Nv/s400/172-15+at+modern+art+museum+3.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453686191668018" border="0" /></a><br />Ditto 2<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqAfdrMYxAkR8YqYvqFbLpe5uRwplbxpACy0N5VFYF6kfb6rDejAHj7VWq2x2SbfYZeGAOQl3fEkVtMsJe_7QwB7PrC7Gy0KkhZW1fqK0L_IZSDiGulI9IDfuhIMwECcq9UVAaqYRLESP0/s1600-h/172-16+Center+Again.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqAfdrMYxAkR8YqYvqFbLpe5uRwplbxpACy0N5VFYF6kfb6rDejAHj7VWq2x2SbfYZeGAOQl3fEkVtMsJe_7QwB7PrC7Gy0KkhZW1fqK0L_IZSDiGulI9IDfuhIMwECcq9UVAaqYRLESP0/s400/172-16+Center+Again.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453685616664082" border="0" /></a><br />Main square and cathedral<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_8UtO01Gnc7MmEPAIMVSNf_3SmQn-5CBVHpbrBoaVC-GT2naTF-PBlC2lKvea07BkdKSZc1bGgv4K4PEhOSmBN0_X0xR80vzJTzGxeTEjvgVCW8cqC2BbwRiSoXC-lrx3K1atrZpCpJo/s1600-h/172-17+-+Qorichanca.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_8UtO01Gnc7MmEPAIMVSNf_3SmQn-5CBVHpbrBoaVC-GT2naTF-PBlC2lKvea07BkdKSZc1bGgv4K4PEhOSmBN0_X0xR80vzJTzGxeTEjvgVCW8cqC2BbwRiSoXC-lrx3K1atrZpCpJo/s400/172-17+-+Qorichanca.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453689790185042" border="0" /></a><br />Qorichanca - the lower part is the old Inca temple ruin, the upper is a Spanish church<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNN1CZHCZTrcpkKdjHzfRH6Nr7Y7xYMIWOhEzqpcsQRHIZJlmhxvfCuh0kztLi3c1GxrwP1PFFmbB6e02K7WHABPiSBQfxnvaLZuK4Qh_fTvRFQJjhoSLqkcNExCLFH_DhNfUIop-pwhgI/s1600-h/172-18+-+Native+Dance+Theater.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNN1CZHCZTrcpkKdjHzfRH6Nr7Y7xYMIWOhEzqpcsQRHIZJlmhxvfCuh0kztLi3c1GxrwP1PFFmbB6e02K7WHABPiSBQfxnvaLZuK4Qh_fTvRFQJjhoSLqkcNExCLFH_DhNfUIop-pwhgI/s400/172-18+-+Native+Dance+Theater.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453447510702818" border="0" /></a><br />Dance production at indigenous theater<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qYUEZBPliR19OWvdqizGPGxEA_9UoakGfto6nZfqo0n0HHXDmyFuIZtgSrBtpcPCAE5MNbmMdlYvgbKEhMUzYVQdomjcXNPHK5pOyK1Aw1y1d4C1dusmb1T6kkIRUSEUO-VWqv0ZSor4/s1600-h/173-1+-+Ollantaytambo+1.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qYUEZBPliR19OWvdqizGPGxEA_9UoakGfto6nZfqo0n0HHXDmyFuIZtgSrBtpcPCAE5MNbmMdlYvgbKEhMUzYVQdomjcXNPHK5pOyK1Aw1y1d4C1dusmb1T6kkIRUSEUO-VWqv0ZSor4/s400/173-1+-+Ollantaytambo+1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453445819577810" border="0" /></a><br />Ollantaytambo - Inca Fortress in sacred valley - heading to the MTB road - day 173<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizxKoBBFXXDN982M2UTUd1OCNay0GX09p4jrxfNUAPACbmk_EF2npPSSv2jhmnXMYqeWIW8Mw45kWnD_e0E9Hi_owaIfDaR7vZieerQR_1_HfcttEzyFDT7bMvK2_8RfppDKse7xMvDlZh/s1600-h/173-2+-+Ollantaytambo+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizxKoBBFXXDN982M2UTUd1OCNay0GX09p4jrxfNUAPACbmk_EF2npPSSv2jhmnXMYqeWIW8Mw45kWnD_e0E9Hi_owaIfDaR7vZieerQR_1_HfcttEzyFDT7bMvK2_8RfppDKse7xMvDlZh/s400/173-2+-+Ollantaytambo+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453446362203490" border="0" /></a><br />Ollantaytambo reloaded<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLLWaTE9NEZhN9adyXrqXp6-bNeJdkG6uH8fA6C42OT4r9vdQubuzmj2IFsjUjFm78v1CXUktb4dTThcp9v2niZyMb0p7ey8uHoIvY6b21XM0JN4VaKMl5MqPEPlMa0hf1d7eLjetPTJw/s1600-h/173-3+-+Switchbacks.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLLWaTE9NEZhN9adyXrqXp6-bNeJdkG6uH8fA6C42OT4r9vdQubuzmj2IFsjUjFm78v1CXUktb4dTThcp9v2niZyMb0p7ey8uHoIvY6b21XM0JN4VaKMl5MqPEPlMa0hf1d7eLjetPTJw/s400/173-3+-+Switchbacks.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453448760436194" border="0" /></a><br />The way up<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieroKqW9QyA1BBEJwR6pimdM-rP-8I8uuf32urQ4WbDmsNUQTj9IwZs7domhOYOcpTZrtpgF8gxdk2dEABMeLfx0KfM-KJFsIebb3HSqwzo3rS5zIAPVXn5aUgHuPyD62AoS1TVUGu5jN8/s1600-h/173-4+-From+the+top.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieroKqW9QyA1BBEJwR6pimdM-rP-8I8uuf32urQ4WbDmsNUQTj9IwZs7domhOYOcpTZrtpgF8gxdk2dEABMeLfx0KfM-KJFsIebb3HSqwzo3rS5zIAPVXn5aUgHuPyD62AoS1TVUGu5jN8/s400/173-4+-From+the+top.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453451633018338" border="0" /></a><br />The way down<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81c-53Qlp63-8AoLiZlfqOKDCST1bAr36J8b5S5rXRs11EWJVtccOLE7O209u5loaB4c4v4e6lfhSb2nMKBnHxhANaoU7cb4UC2DxxoFBGSTxqcuPz4_fc-xruZL3WP62wo-kaBQ_cW57/s1600-h/173-5+-+The+Gang.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81c-53Qlp63-8AoLiZlfqOKDCST1bAr36J8b5S5rXRs11EWJVtccOLE7O209u5loaB4c4v4e6lfhSb2nMKBnHxhANaoU7cb4UC2DxxoFBGSTxqcuPz4_fc-xruZL3WP62wo-kaBQ_cW57/s400/173-5+-+The+Gang.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453179485181938" border="0" /></a><br />The Gang - Caroline, Bart, Rachelle, Dror, Me, and Silvio our guide<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibcscATXTDvnD3R0PCbvQv_jFX8clmVRC134BUk1ZSylsvYdx_UENsDE3yiw7VD-ncNtitZXBRXb2kc7gfZ3OR1N9hNLIWY1IWV8HkJ6f_DBEXTnsSTHkKvRpFX_DUrgREdMLrWItsoRj2/s1600-h/173-6+-Dror+shows+off.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibcscATXTDvnD3R0PCbvQv_jFX8clmVRC134BUk1ZSylsvYdx_UENsDE3yiw7VD-ncNtitZXBRXb2kc7gfZ3OR1N9hNLIWY1IWV8HkJ6f_DBEXTnsSTHkKvRpFX_DUrgREdMLrWItsoRj2/s400/173-6+-Dror+shows+off.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453178688735650" border="0" /></a><br />Dror hot-doggin'<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP18ykLSFJyqPwcFTzRSrssT01BRUbmxHp6Tu-RJ0QO9egh9iTHq42syU2iMcUo-2csO39WbOHgs8PNFPS46GKjvMjdrY02SXpzikdVhyphenhyphenfj7XSzhXgpT16cTbjx7xmJOxUHW5Z8OHPjYH6/s1600-h/173-7+-+Waterfall+along+the+way.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP18ykLSFJyqPwcFTzRSrssT01BRUbmxHp6Tu-RJ0QO9egh9iTHq42syU2iMcUo-2csO39WbOHgs8PNFPS46GKjvMjdrY02SXpzikdVhyphenhyphenfj7XSzhXgpT16cTbjx7xmJOxUHW5Z8OHPjYH6/s400/173-7+-+Waterfall+along+the+way.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453186000547602" border="0" /></a><br />Waterfall along the road<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-X-2jMCRRhuBIuRcO4rIJLDxhwGR6jGkpDrIGMLEDU9_MoRmXI7VzZMmmCEh5AcbtMQj_C-qjEQhC9dV69MOve8RgdHUdQSdsXaqnXN-a04zfb2Mc6g43z8wli_aLqu98XYGOwpbr1Ux/s1600-h/174-1+Bananas+and+Papaya.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-X-2jMCRRhuBIuRcO4rIJLDxhwGR6jGkpDrIGMLEDU9_MoRmXI7VzZMmmCEh5AcbtMQj_C-qjEQhC9dV69MOve8RgdHUdQSdsXaqnXN-a04zfb2Mc6g43z8wli_aLqu98XYGOwpbr1Ux/s400/174-1+Bananas+and+Papaya.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453186882533538" border="0" /></a><br />Hike starts - day 174 - bananas and papayas (I think)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQfcLkXAgMFg7B6Q3noeJe8LpR4nkwVjzCbxCY7lwev_6tmIeS-NnIITjuOSLP1YrNKjlZQVpYjtUrOwXyNh_pv2_6Gss0qlrTnP3URQpM6O6ac_8sVhLD-fTHnAX8kU9Z83hFOttI8xu5/s1600-h/174-2+-Silvio+demonstrates+natural+dye.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQfcLkXAgMFg7B6Q3noeJe8LpR4nkwVjzCbxCY7lwev_6tmIeS-NnIITjuOSLP1YrNKjlZQVpYjtUrOwXyNh_pv2_6Gss0qlrTnP3URQpM6O6ac_8sVhLD-fTHnAX8kU9Z83hFOttI8xu5/s400/174-2+-Silvio+demonstrates+natural+dye.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250453188331762466" border="0" /></a><br />Silvio shows us a native dye made from seed<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg83fYCKeyBYaRKEokBQDXX6Mc41vHnyG6wqlcamrg597965l_7FdJx0YeTY3WRa6RyWGyvDKFy_GIQRx61P0sKSPKBno_NuNy7SlNNh100gzS18G4V90HiMywUR09PTw6KSir77OZpbp5y/s1600-h/174-3+-Coca.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg83fYCKeyBYaRKEokBQDXX6Mc41vHnyG6wqlcamrg597965l_7FdJx0YeTY3WRa6RyWGyvDKFy_GIQRx61P0sKSPKBno_NuNy7SlNNh100gzS18G4V90HiMywUR09PTw6KSir77OZpbp5y/s400/174-3+-Coca.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250451934791567122" border="0" /></a><br />Holy Coca<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguqsAAR17C7Jb1QXUPb7VCTbBYfiZgAronlHJnpNLFjaWjXDkxifQgQwvw8Hh0JaZ-m0ifax9ZD4IXLg5mZPhDCIyyPs8rrCpDRNs75RP49ZCiNXDijHaA0IfKU9vg2lNRT_wBw086xVza/s1600-h/174-4+-+Watch+It.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguqsAAR17C7Jb1QXUPb7VCTbBYfiZgAronlHJnpNLFjaWjXDkxifQgQwvw8Hh0JaZ-m0ifax9ZD4IXLg5mZPhDCIyyPs8rrCpDRNs75RP49ZCiNXDijHaA0IfKU9vg2lNRT_wBw086xVza/s400/174-4+-+Watch+It.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250451937044114258" border="0" /></a><br />Stay back<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNU3wSHacpv10qiHron3aGWotGAPjmSLDMrjt8Ym3fb7o7y9zVu_QfNbzHldYLBMOLbgvZ-bScRLNGKyJ0V2cQVqYKkX22vXbo9LNrX01EnZPlGZLY3GnLiRzdYUo_WVijQOTPu_cFwKtK/s1600-h/174-5+Awww.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNU3wSHacpv10qiHron3aGWotGAPjmSLDMrjt8Ym3fb7o7y9zVu_QfNbzHldYLBMOLbgvZ-bScRLNGKyJ0V2cQVqYKkX22vXbo9LNrX01EnZPlGZLY3GnLiRzdYUo_WVijQOTPu_cFwKtK/s400/174-5+Awww.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250451940296433890" border="0" /></a><br />Awwww<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAfIQX6vRQeWO29Yalo1-KBPRarm7_iRmLQI4vFgWZP0KeFfiyDGTWKoG8_yMje2lkpT4eaxly37HUhx70Q38nNE2V29YjoflE3DuhmFpoOgrx75dwzs6Ovf26Qxmgr4dWFH57id-GIIIR/s1600-h/174-6+-Ants+Marchin.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAfIQX6vRQeWO29Yalo1-KBPRarm7_iRmLQI4vFgWZP0KeFfiyDGTWKoG8_yMje2lkpT4eaxly37HUhx70Q38nNE2V29YjoflE3DuhmFpoOgrx75dwzs6Ovf26Qxmgr4dWFH57id-GIIIR/s400/174-6+-Ants+Marchin.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250451938144677698" border="0" /></a><br />Ants Marching<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc2CvxgkwaFtDZGM1X12BOl4U7c8uOMeV5OMI00ScG2enXiV0ZfSLgwm4ZJo8J4sGm_3IiJteiDupbNsSQy0KSIL-xdwsAlof9rHVg9kw2L8eQrzCBat2j6Y862dYGAZMrPi1txokB0fs4/s1600-h/174-7+Da+Trail.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc2CvxgkwaFtDZGM1X12BOl4U7c8uOMeV5OMI00ScG2enXiV0ZfSLgwm4ZJo8J4sGm_3IiJteiDupbNsSQy0KSIL-xdwsAlof9rHVg9kw2L8eQrzCBat2j6Y862dYGAZMrPi1txokB0fs4/s400/174-7+Da+Trail.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250451945118278386" border="0" /></a><br />That notch up there is the trail - partially a reconstructed Inca trail<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkhJl5x_WS6kBTX1PKCu-WCdwJF0dkLq6CA-kvAkfDA_EFKHScfUilPNR3M7eZ0rFgw161a5bOlG_ZOYvptjSJkDXTG4FKDmKVi9msZlS-FCb7xaq6McNiWpDAtn80cQ6h-F0EFAU7_t2j/s1600-h/174-8+-+Hot+Springs+Eternal.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkhJl5x_WS6kBTX1PKCu-WCdwJF0dkLq6CA-kvAkfDA_EFKHScfUilPNR3M7eZ0rFgw161a5bOlG_ZOYvptjSJkDXTG4FKDmKVi9msZlS-FCb7xaq6McNiWpDAtn80cQ6h-F0EFAU7_t2j/s400/174-8+-+Hot+Springs+Eternal.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250451139723026338" border="0" /></a><br />Ahhh - nice thermals after a long hike<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu4zKTbc4rMdKJ_9UXdobjow5NkizuEsUFjJFpCSEl1LhE9ak51CeYza8cMRKWN6GtX1gGH6pdIFf_exW9GMJWu698W4MDk0Flo0lkfHDKV3i3MxkaKw9HXJLiQkxrT2SNpWCZuInNBDND/s1600-h/175-1+-+Vendors+on+the+rail.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu4zKTbc4rMdKJ_9UXdobjow5NkizuEsUFjJFpCSEl1LhE9ak51CeYza8cMRKWN6GtX1gGH6pdIFf_exW9GMJWu698W4MDk0Flo0lkfHDKV3i3MxkaKw9HXJLiQkxrT2SNpWCZuInNBDND/s400/175-1+-+Vendors+on+the+rail.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250451141334994850" border="0" /></a><br />Market along the railway near the hydro plant - day 175<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJtrzei3ttReVL1r67UchRMy_Omngfn2wefbfGXde2NCsbiXFBul7Vbl5iifNws3cvTvsUWjcJY_714UFx3OUa_rlot6ancylk0iAQ18PaoPXTmI3GbCXb_JSmU9jff6atfFMp4aNGIeu4/s1600-h/175-2+-+Crossin+the+holy+river.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJtrzei3ttReVL1r67UchRMy_Omngfn2wefbfGXde2NCsbiXFBul7Vbl5iifNws3cvTvsUWjcJY_714UFx3OUa_rlot6ancylk0iAQ18PaoPXTmI3GbCXb_JSmU9jff6atfFMp4aNGIeu4/s400/175-2+-+Crossin+the+holy+river.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250451146157812450" border="0" /></a><br />Crossing the sacred river<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8TO-RUsTg6Enpr2KxijtLBw7JBjeI38wygrIbE4JPws5WfHqUTo1jVyk30byAlt9SBJhud3LuQNphVXBqIadKSf6s_QGajyxZPJiZtnLfqK0zUkXjYMga7dJocjwYraEOYJIDXu0TR0np/s1600-h/175-3+-+Gratuitous+Hummingbird+Shot+1.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8TO-RUsTg6Enpr2KxijtLBw7JBjeI38wygrIbE4JPws5WfHqUTo1jVyk30byAlt9SBJhud3LuQNphVXBqIadKSf6s_QGajyxZPJiZtnLfqK0zUkXjYMga7dJocjwYraEOYJIDXu0TR0np/s400/175-3+-+Gratuitous+Hummingbird+Shot+1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250451144156460018" border="0" /></a><br />Gratuitous hummingbird shot<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuZyvWucwknx0Z94MAj2iGsZkQB0mW3ZjixOXtAa0nzh1B1sgEK7olwBtRyJE80-hv1Ww127fZaqc_IIkrCBQQH83Wmwu2-7Ow7bLbpFjWAuXUETv41TC8VzJUUTytyS3edRf7Cfr0kttV/s1600-h/175-4+-+Gratuitous+Hummingbird+Shot+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuZyvWucwknx0Z94MAj2iGsZkQB0mW3ZjixOXtAa0nzh1B1sgEK7olwBtRyJE80-hv1Ww127fZaqc_IIkrCBQQH83Wmwu2-7Ow7bLbpFjWAuXUETv41TC8VzJUUTytyS3edRf7Cfr0kttV/s400/175-4+-+Gratuitous+Hummingbird+Shot+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250451146192212642" border="0" /></a><br />Gratuitous hummingbird shot 2<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUYWgeR-j-ceNiezQ8FbxkCgTy_pg5-UOopPgkyDKUzXp3wQvlN-eZ5eAhJ-OuYhyphenhyphenkmvcIJJ7HWqAbEsNz0sH0oXxL2nlq5frXRMF-QIcLoU_sFAReVE2X_YO989SEB1k8A7mznVYM57N9/s1600-h/175-5+-+Another+Valley+Shot.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUYWgeR-j-ceNiezQ8FbxkCgTy_pg5-UOopPgkyDKUzXp3wQvlN-eZ5eAhJ-OuYhyphenhyphenkmvcIJJ7HWqAbEsNz0sH0oXxL2nlq5frXRMF-QIcLoU_sFAReVE2X_YO989SEB1k8A7mznVYM57N9/s400/175-5+-+Another+Valley+Shot.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250450851501604898" border="0" /></a><br />Workin on the railroad<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZ65PjJdlcfzremhP3xTl9uqH2jvss7OxiVfcVYSwdbT_gE-AoASYgCL_Q8th4SHneSYeH8AkOCTNqaZ8ic9Ks2DEA05gsCYz9dSGN0CpwehQDFqr3Io1OKdCY6Q9sWmB7XeDzFMgVwOS/s1600-h/175-6+-+Machu+Picchu.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZ65PjJdlcfzremhP3xTl9uqH2jvss7OxiVfcVYSwdbT_gE-AoASYgCL_Q8th4SHneSYeH8AkOCTNqaZ8ic9Ks2DEA05gsCYz9dSGN0CpwehQDFqr3Io1OKdCY6Q9sWmB7XeDzFMgVwOS/s400/175-6+-+Machu+Picchu.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250450855002854082" border="0" /></a><br />First sight of Macchu Pichu - the entrance anyway<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibq9rN0PRwcD7w5azgq5kTCq8JjL5j9uVrZK_VDim6BUzyX_xqg5ljhysevsnCI_nSFCHMRGug0EWkTJUpZsY9W9Hqe36xZrJFDET0XZULTrbOyWs987Tc0oddOHlLx_MZ3kocb8_PQUtt/s1600-h/175-7+-+Base+Camp.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibq9rN0PRwcD7w5azgq5kTCq8JjL5j9uVrZK_VDim6BUzyX_xqg5ljhysevsnCI_nSFCHMRGug0EWkTJUpZsY9W9Hqe36xZrJFDET0XZULTrbOyWs987Tc0oddOHlLx_MZ3kocb8_PQUtt/s400/175-7+-+Base+Camp.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250450858608203570" border="0" /></a><br />Afternoon hike up that ladder<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsWcvh3fTBegwhaDuvcwamaDcqzN8WIF-kf8I4dRfiOt9G_OsgxaEDsURyjnGibv67q2tPctKwb9C3x_1x4EPW77VBJzBs1o7tJDJWdvmsoeu6OXR7vlJT7hQ8TrkLO7t3ECirita_LP8q/s1600-h/175-8+-Stupid+Markus+Shot.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsWcvh3fTBegwhaDuvcwamaDcqzN8WIF-kf8I4dRfiOt9G_OsgxaEDsURyjnGibv67q2tPctKwb9C3x_1x4EPW77VBJzBs1o7tJDJWdvmsoeu6OXR7vlJT7hQ8TrkLO7t3ECirita_LP8q/s400/175-8+-Stupid+Markus+Shot.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250450857957670322" border="0" /></a><br />Stupid Markus Shot<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ndWb0u8dj4tHl1Wxpd2qc-eebD1DMMwVNSJJT2QMTc-3o_EeH50cHZIrTJjtBYHTq9yQhjKLshX_0BPcghHU_iERoYzSB4cOqgqDhpAP-bK7aj7XnEcjYS4cPLATOFFb3vQzRIiESvbz/s1600-h/175-9+-+Aguas+Calientes.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ndWb0u8dj4tHl1Wxpd2qc-eebD1DMMwVNSJJT2QMTc-3o_EeH50cHZIrTJjtBYHTq9yQhjKLshX_0BPcghHU_iERoYzSB4cOqgqDhpAP-bK7aj7XnEcjYS4cPLATOFFb3vQzRIiESvbz/s400/175-9+-+Aguas+Calientes.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250450856422964594" border="0" /></a><br />Aguas Calientes (day before MP)<br /><br /><br />Day 169<br /><br />Puno - finally. Well, 2nd time's a charm. Ilave isn't the most attractive city so I opt for breakfast of powdered milk and granola in my room and try to get an early start. I'm on the road by 9 - or 8am local time - gained another hour crossing the border.<br /><br />Unfortunately, I'm running out of time so the rest of the trip will be more than a bit rushed - and today is the first marathon day. The scenery isn't really all that great - miles and miles of yellow brush altiplano with occasional views of Titicaca - but without much mountain splendor in the background anymore.<br /><br />Puno is also not exactly a world class city, although I do venture downtown as I need cash and it offers the first ATMs in Peru. The central Plaza de Armas is quite nice and the pedestrian street is bustling, but no time to explore. After getting cash from Scotiabank - the Canadians have arrived - it's up out of town. About 150m to climb heading for Juilaca.<br /><br />Juilaca makes Puno look like a world class city. Although it comes with the airport if you need to fly here. I only get some drinks and snacks and continue.<br /><br />In all, today will be 150km of fairly rough, mostly level, paved road under sunny skies with variable but mostly light winds. Pretty decent day to crank out a few miles and I'm pretty happy as the sun sets, although town is still a bit away and with frequent streams cut under the road, finding camp is straightforward. I'm well hidden except people are everywhere in Peru - the place is just crawling with them, although I spot noone, frequent dogs, sheep, and other animal sounds indicate folks are not too far away. Well, it's dark now so I should be OK until morning... Now to just make Cusco in another 2 days - better get up early tomorrow.<br /><br />Day 170 - to Sicuani<br /><br />Another marathon day - never did encounter anyone at the campsite, despite widespread evidence of animal grazing (i.e. there's shit everywhere). Get a decent start and head for Santa Rosa, a sleepy town on the way to the pass between Puno and Cusco. The altiplano here is a lot like the altiplano in Bolivia - lots of isolated homesteads in various states of existence or decay, llamas and assorted other animals grazing, and a generally poor population. Which means St. Rosa has quite a few cheap places for lunch - the kind of places where you walk into a dimly lit room covered in posters of local festivals and scantily clad Ms Local Beer 2001 calendars and order "lunch" - whatever that may be, and then eat what you get. Generally, it includes soup, potatoes AND rice (matching the Bolivian National Side Dishes) and some local meat. Timing isn't a forte here, so sometimes soup may come after the main course. But it still tastes good and sets you back about S/3.00 ($1).<br /><br />The altiplano is also a bit boring for cycling - but boring is good when you're trying to crank out the miles and after passing St. Rosa the road starts to climb steadily to the 4300m pass and the scenery becomes more alpine with several beautiful snow-covered peaks near the pass.<br /><br />Joe has warned me of this place - he had killer headwind, but I am more fortunate (and it seems the more normal state I've observed in most of Bolivia - generally light to moderate tailwinds on the way up passes and headwinds on the way down with travel along long valleys and plains having more random wind).<br /><br />After the pass you drop down to a hot spring (another Aguas Calientes) - which seems to be frequented by local tourists. And then it's a nice, long, gradual downhill almost all the way to Sicuani - plus the scenery becomes greener and quite idyllic. And you follow a train line - always a plus for me - especially as it usually means less steep ups and downs.<br /><br />And only 150km later as the sun is starting to get a tad low on the horizon, Sicuani appears - quite a bit bigger than I expected with hundreds of 3-wheeled taxis, similar to Thai tuk-tuks (some still pedal powered - yeah!). They're scurrying about, somehow all dodging each other and me and after another 20min I'm in the middle of town. No central plaza but a fairly interesting bridge over the local river with another bridge leading to a tiny pedestrian section. After finding a hostal I get to explore and evetually find a decent hole-in-the wall and get to watch Matrix-Revolutions in Spanish on TNT while enjoying Bifstek al lo Pobre (poor-man's steak - which is actually one of the fancier options here and in Chile and includes steak, eggs, some sausage, and, like all entrees in Peru and Bolivia, potatoes and rice).<br /><br />Day 171 -<br /><br />Well, despite the unexpected extra 50km, Cusco is in striking distance. Just about 140km to go. Hopefully the rest of the trip also works out this well. Biking today continues along the same river as yesterday - a nice, gradual, idyllic downhill through green, you could even say verdant, but that's too fancy for this blog, valleys.<br /><br />Mostly today, like the past few, is about cranking out a lotta km. The road passes quite a few archaelogical sites - and if I had the Boleto Turistico available in Cusco I could even visit them, but I won't have that until tonight. Plus time is limited, although some are quite visible from the road, such as the dam-like structure of Tipon near Andahuaylillas.<br /><br />In general the road from Copacabana has been fairly easy - almost no severe grades and really not all that many hills in general - just one highish pass, and today continues in that vein. Winds are a tad bit worse, but still quite a decent cycling day.<br /><br />I make it to the outskirts of Cusco by around 3:30 and this is gonna take awhile. Traffic gets heavier and heavier and they sure don't put low-sulphur in their diesel here - man is the air full of soot and smog. That and the road is chock-full of camionetta drivers - like taxi drivers but without the good manners. Basically minivans which act as public transport in much of Bolivia and Peru (plus lots of motorized and manual 3-wheeler taxis as well). They basically stop wherever they feel like and almost never signal this intent, which tends to be extremely sudden - as in they see someone who may possibly be a potential passenger and swoop in with the sideman calling out a destination and fare and checking for interest. They make for interesting dodge-maneuvers when you cycle near them - pretty much unavoidable as they make up about 50% of traffic in cities. And in the middle of all this, a pick-up flags me down and a Dutch (I think) lady gets out to advertize the campground she helps run near Sexy Woman (more on that later). From the first impression it sounds pretty decent - complete with WiFi, although it does involve climbing out of the old-town, not an easy feat with fully loaded bike (probably 150m vertical or so) and I won't make it there tonight.<br /><br />But by around 5:30 I've made it into the historical district and make for the tourist-info center as Joe has warned me that the price for the Boleto Turistico will nearly double on July 1 and I have 30min to get the old price - S/70 vs S/130 (about $23 vs $43), success on one front. I also look up Joe's hostel which he recommended as a good place to store a bike. I then set out for it and the complications of Cusco fully set in for the first time.<br /><br />Cusco is an amazing place where it's just about impossible to get from A to B on wheeled transport without foreknowledge. The map I get is pretty much useless as it doesn't indicate 1-way streets or stairs. Intricate, narrow, cobblestone streets full of taxis and really tight sidewalks, oozing with colonial architecture and dead-ending into staircases on all sides. Did I mention the old town is situated on a steep hillside. I try 3 times for about an hour to get to Joe's recommendation - maybe 1.5km away - each time getting a bit closer, but in the end I'm stuck 1 street over and no tourist or local knows of a reasonable route there which doesn't involve stairs or a long way down - but you can get there because taxis do run up that street and generally U-turn to get back down.<br /><br />This is a place for walking - which I really want to do as soon as I can find a hostel. Fortunately, no matter where you are in the old town, there's probably a hostel within about 20m, and one of the tourists recommends their place as well - nothing special, but cheap and they put left luggage in their house. So I check it out - it really isn't anything special, but at S/15 (about $5) / night plus I really don't want to push my bike anywhere anymore, The Hospedaje Familar de Cascada de Sachsayhuaman is home for tonight.<br /><br />Now it's time to find out about the Inca Trail. 4 stores later and no slots are available - one goes so far as to say that while people may cancel, it's impossible to take their slots. Not sure how true that is, but everyone is offering the "alternative" Inca trail - the "Jungle Trek" - 1 day MTB, 2 day hike, 1 day at MP. It includes about 500m on a real Inca Trail (which will be amazing) and costs about $170 or about 1/2 the Inca Trail price, even less than just taking the train to MP for a 1 day trip. I get it for $160 as I'll use my own bike and related gear - takes care of figuring out where to store it as well. So tomorrow relax and check out Cusco and nearby ruins.<br /><br />Day 172 - the next 5 days entries are a kind of "tourist" report - not exactly bicycle touring related, but perhaps of use if you're thinking of coming this way...<br /><br /><br />Finally get up at a reasonable hour - around 8am or so. Get bearings and head for Tambomachay. There are 4 ruins "in a row" along the road more or less north of the old town. Tambomachay is the furthest away - the "Inca Bath" it's an ancient (well, pretty much all Inca creations are between about 800 and 500 years old, not all that old compared to much of Europe or the Mideast, but still a pre-Columbian civilization) fountain. The Incas were very adept at cutting and moving amazingly big stones into place - some exceed 100tons and still have amazing precision. The stones of the fountain aren't of that magnitude, but it's a nice place to start. Idyllic setting in a small valley about 7km from the end of the Old Town - and still diverting water spilling through various stone guides (not sure how much is original, but it all looks original).<br /><br />To get there, I decide to take about 150 stairs from the hostel to the road, then the actual cycling begins. It's basically all uphill - I'll climb about 420m in total, and drop them again, all in about 15.5km for about 5.5% average grade then turn-around and come back. There are also dozens of "City Tours" available which run pretty much the same circuit (well, the bus doesn't do stairs), but this is a bike trip.<br /><br />From Tambomachay, cross the road to Pukapukara - an Inca fortress. Not all that big though, compared with what's to come. Keep heading down the road, but keep straight at the junction where Sachsayhuaman is marked to the right (alternatively, just before/uphill from the junction, watch for horse-back riders on the left side and follow them - they're taking a 5min side trip to the temple of the moon - currently still being excavated, although some is visible in a rock outcropping.<br /><br />Anyway, the straight road option leads to Q'enqo - an Inca Temple with some interesting passages - a sorta hybrid between natural rocks / caves / and manmade massive stone walls. It also has rock carvings (which are surprisingly lacking in most Inca architecture - nothing compared to cultures like Egypt or Ankor Wat or Maya). Unfortunately, you can't see them anymore since a tourist gazing at them fell off the rock to his death.<br /><br />Continuing back down the road we finally arrive at Sexy Woman - or Sachsayhuaman (or Saqsaywaman or any of several spellings, in general things are quite flexible here between Quechua or Spanish or various attempts at transliteration - Cusco is also Cuzco or Qosqo). By far the biggest Inca ruin in town - this is where there are 100ton blocks after 100ton blocks. A really big place - basically the fortress for Cusco - which itself means navel - i.e. the capital of the Inca empire. At its height it stretched from north of Quito to around the Bio Bio river in Chile and arose in the space of just a few centuries until Spanish conquest cut it down in the 16th century. And this place was the capital.<br /><br />The Spanish had little use for massive native architecture and basically carted off all the gold and other precious metals to Europe and used many of the stones for building their own places. So this massive, massive place has been reduced to a small shadow of its original size. While in Cusco town, medival, colonial architecture is everywhere. But on a closer inspection the original Inca foundations still form the base of many Spanish buildings in Cusco - most visible along some downtown passage ways and at Qorichanca - where a church and monestary were built over an Inca temple (which was first stripped of tons and tons of gold coverings).<br /><br />Anyway, that's history. One economic tidbit I find interesting for folks who cling to ideas like a "gold standard" - at that time pretty much the whole world worked on the gold standard, but the massive inrush of gold into Spain caused a kind of gold-hyperinflation - gold was suddenly in ample supply and stuff to buy wasn't, so in the end prices jumped, imports surged, Spain lost its manufacturing base (who needs to make stuff when you've got a currency everyone else wants) to other European powers which focused more on manufacturing rather than finance, and within a fairly short time it's world-dominating empire was over. Any parallels to today?<br /><br />I spent much of the day going through my Turistico Boleto, visiting Qorichanca - somewhat annoyingly, many sites are not included - and those that are change from time to time. Most of the religious sites are now not part of the ticket, so at Qorichanca you get to visit the lower, Inca portion while the upper current church and monestary require separate admission. Also, the main cathedral - effectively one of the biggest art museums in town - charges S/25 ($8) to visit. I decide to stick to the ticket - this place really charges some steep entry prices, even by Western standards. Fortunately, local things like food and lodging are nowhere near as stratospheric - for example, the 4-day trek with food and lodging will be $160 which includes entry and a guide to MP and a 50km or so train ride - those two are over $75 alone. And you can sample plenty of tourist menu meals for around S/10 ($3) to S/20.<br /><br />The modern art museum is worth a look, I'll post a few pics, and I really enjoyed the evening dance show at the native art & dance theater. Evening is a mad dash of repacking for tomorrow's Jungle Trek...<br /><br />Day 173 -<br /><br />No sleeping in today - the 7:30 pickup shows up at 7:45 which is good as I just finished moving my extra bags into storage and getting everything ready. The trip takes paved roads to Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley - an amazing Inca sight by itself - if you take this trip, I suggest talking to the booking agency to see if you can get an earlier train from MP to here to explore town and the site on the way back (or even spend an extra day in Aguas Calientes - more time at MP and not a bad place to while away the evening - then catch an early train to explore it the next day - the agencies are fairly flexible up front and much less so - basically disorganized - once the trip is underway). In my case, I only get a 5-minute gaze from a distance.<br /><br />From Ollantaytambo, the paved road climbs and climbs and climbs - an amazing work of engineering. You climb well over 2000m over dozens and dozens of switchbacks. Again I'll post a few pics. The summit is well over 4000m and then you drop towards Santa Maria. The bus drops you around 3300m and from there it's a bit like the "Death Road" - an initial winding paved descent followed by a gravel finish - about 50km in all. While this road is not as narrow, it has some traffic and still quite a few cliff edges.<br /><br />The scenery is amazing. Frequent streams cross the road and switchback after hairpin make for a great descent.<br /><br />Our trip is a bit chaotic, we have several flat tires (not me this time) and in general the bikes aren't in all that great a shape - pretty bald tires and not particularly well tuned - but it's random, we even have some fairly new disc brakes. I'm more comfortable with my mostly rigid hybrid - at least I know its quirks. In the end we lose Silvio our guide for the last hour or so. He takes a bike with the flat and disappears. We make it to St. Maria and have a beer and about 45min he finally makes it in a van, with a bike and a flat - claims it just kept going flat.<br /><br />If you think you can avoid this - I doubt it. It's really hard to get a handle on the exact details of any tour - the tourist agencies are separate from the operators - the whole thing seems overly complex bordering on deceptive. In our group of 5 we have 3 different agencies and will end up with completely different conditions on the final day - more on that later. I couldn't find an agency which could actually show me a physical bicycle, just pictures. It seems to be a giant clearinghouse where all agencies somehow string various operators together to create a tour.<br />By the way - our group of 5 is Rachelle and Dror both currently from Israel (Rachelle is originally from the UK) and Caroline and Bart from the Flemish part of Belgium, plus yours truly.<br /><br />Considering that, it works quite well and in general I don't have any major complaints except for the very end, but that will follow.<br /><br />So we all meet up for dinner, which is quite decent - a bit annoyed that they charge me S/1 after telling me I could charge my phone in an outlet - more nickel-and-diming. One thing I definitely won't miss about S. America is having to ask the price of basically everything if you don't want any surprises. In general, nothing is extravagant, but quite adequate given the price. The hostel is a bit ratty - ants in my room and there's an extra charge if you want a hot shower, although it's hot enough down here so we make do with cold.<br /><br />Day 174 -<br /><br />Switch from bike to hike. We're now at the bottom - around 1200m, and MP is around 2400 so we're going up. The hike goes through St. Maria - which has a train station of a line abandoned apparently after it was washed out in flooding (the same line that still runs a bit past MP). The trek has quite a few ups and downs today - you go up the canyon wall, past all sorts of plantations. These are quite different from what I'm used to - I quite like it, although I'm curious about bigger picture issues. Rather than hectare after hectare of bananas, you have bananas mixed with coffee mixed with coca, papaya, mangoes and oranges. Certainly makes the hike more interesting. Don't worry much about packing food or drink - there are plenty of vendors along the trek. In general, you could probably do this trek sans operator quite easily - the route isn't too complicated and lots of tourist necessities are pretty much everywhere - not that you'd save much money, but the bike ride itself would be quite an adventure and you'd have more flexibility. I'll post the GPS recording I have eventually as well.<br /><br />Definitely pack a lot of repellant. In general, the lower elevations here and in Bolivia are shrouded in a cloud of biting ... sand flies? Whatever they are these tiny buggers are a plague. Whenever you stop you'll see dozens swarming around you and before long you'll have dozens and dozens of bites. And they're hard to kill, although I think pretty much all clothing is thick enough to stop them and repellent seems to work well enough. Apply frequently and liberally. Dror decides to try garlic instead. Still not quite sure on it's effiacy, but he's happy with it - the dozens of bites were from "untreated" sections or while bathing.<br /><br />Today we encounter a small section of an original Inca Trail - makes me want to do the full Inca trek - amazing stonework set along impossibly steep cliffs. Definitely not a trail for those with vertigo, but an amazing sight. Not hard to see how a lot of this stuff remains hidden even now.<br />But it's just a short portion - maybe 0.5km. From there we drop back to the river for a really nice lunch, then make our way to Cocalmayo - a little piece of tourist heaven set in a cloud of sand flies on an amazing valley floor - yeah, a local hot spring / pool complete with beer and Pringles. Great way to end the day - except it's still a 40min walk to town. Bart and I decide to walk - dragging a slightly annoyed Silvio along, while the rest bus it. Again, accomodation and food in St. Teresa is OK - reasonable for this tour.<br /><br />Day 175 -<br /><br />Today begins with a choice - hike all the way to Aguas Calientes beneath MP, or bus the first half and then climb a local mountain across from MP. We opt for the latter - and I highly recommend it unless you have vertigo (I think it's another nickel/dime ploy, as far as I can tell all groups are offered this "special bonus" hike, but hey it's only $3 extra). So we bus it to the hydro-electric plant. This is where the road ends and the rest of the trek is on the rail line. Not sure if you could try this approach from Ollantaytambo (I think the roadless stretch is much longer from that side plus there are a lot more trains), but basically you walk the train line to Macchu Pichu. There are 2 trains a day to this spot and again plenty of vendors hawking drinks, snacks, and meals at the makeshift "train station". I still think the hike is quite scenic, if a bit monotonous. Only problem is you're hiking on a rail line so the "trail" is rather large, loose, uneven gravel or unevenly spaced rail ties/sleepers. You end up spending a lot of time looking at your feet. But look up from time to time - the canyon walls are amazing and there are hints of MP here and there.<br /><br />We make AC in the early afternoon, have lunch, get our hostel rooms, and start the 2nd hike. The rooms here are a pleasant surprise - compared to the past 2 nights they are roomy, clean, and I even have a nice hot bath/shower in my room. The food, lunch and dinner, is quite good, too.<br /><br />The afternoon hike is probably the most difficult thing of the trip. I really like it - ladder after ladder - the longest is probably about 25m vertical. Once that's over, you follow a ridge line to the top where you're rewarded with a great view of MP across the valley.<br /><br />A nice dinner and early evening - need to get up at 4am for MP - next week...Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-53033435485663542832008-05-10T19:46:00.000-07:002008-07-16T22:24:43.446-07:00Week 13 - Buenos AiresWeek 13 - Goodbye Ushuaia - Hello Buenos Aires and Part 2<br />Well, I´m getting better at putting images in order, even if I can´t copy them into the text yet.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ZMzwAv0j153UEnhn8Gq_aA2ducIT-jLVI7g0KtfH0iv1hRNGJWNTd45sVBRb-AN-n6Hk9k5Y9qjKD04wYZIkoUyzB9xNZMx_BUUrDaY_x_1jspe6qp-MDLzY2i_yQih4Txrjk9KUUlQP/s1600-h/085+-+1+-+Loading+the+bikes.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199672310029880882" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ZMzwAv0j153UEnhn8Gq_aA2ducIT-jLVI7g0KtfH0iv1hRNGJWNTd45sVBRb-AN-n6Hk9k5Y9qjKD04wYZIkoUyzB9xNZMx_BUUrDaY_x_1jspe6qp-MDLzY2i_yQih4Txrjk9KUUlQP/s400/085+-+1+-+Loading+the+bikes.JPG" border="0" /></a> 2 Belgian Cyclists packing up in Ushuaia (travelled down from Ecuador) - day 85<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh12bekpA3M1akdKYamUPnbNxqxKCensPwry6R2tTUKLO_vc3CHRosBTpJDIki91DydVKo0Fp0fT3QK1gnzmIX_UlOnW6KCxXuU2jBChLE0aPvIBinPYFbqu65RmofmtlOW7a3hSHqL6yXW/s1600-h/085+-+2+-+Prison+Art+Gallery.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199672314324848194" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh12bekpA3M1akdKYamUPnbNxqxKCensPwry6R2tTUKLO_vc3CHRosBTpJDIki91DydVKo0Fp0fT3QK1gnzmIX_UlOnW6KCxXuU2jBChLE0aPvIBinPYFbqu65RmofmtlOW7a3hSHqL6yXW/s400/085+-+2+-+Prison+Art+Gallery.JPG" border="0" /></a> The Presidio in Ushuaia - part historic jail, part art gallery - 85<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDRGLaYXXwDCU-FQgaFAFM7SuxxIsS7ZPfNcu365qs3JRy-lxOJ3tfRVvcwQAND6IKaCP5OMs6SWA4a3plzM-CV_GbwFtOWZqXVH4N9NG2Rz86x5HpaV8gyZFP0_u1KOXR_lQ1iwiyw1Cp/s1600-h/085+-+3+-+Presidio.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199672318619815506" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDRGLaYXXwDCU-FQgaFAFM7SuxxIsS7ZPfNcu365qs3JRy-lxOJ3tfRVvcwQAND6IKaCP5OMs6SWA4a3plzM-CV_GbwFtOWZqXVH4N9NG2Rz86x5HpaV8gyZFP0_u1KOXR_lQ1iwiyw1Cp/s400/085+-+3+-+Presidio.JPG" border="0" /></a> Poster of the Presidio<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLAY7BdRaaGHeC7TnTjhN8rc2SxdFG3ZF0ZL1x1nLszzjY4nshjftzoAJfT4WKKA6L1LS7-qyX84Zd6mYS9hrdJB18R_bF2p5KCR__KfqmFQQpvQdc2mN2F2BuUEjjaYFHVmfTbRD97dkc/s1600-h/085+-+4+-+Unfinished+Wing.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199672095281516002" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLAY7BdRaaGHeC7TnTjhN8rc2SxdFG3ZF0ZL1x1nLszzjY4nshjftzoAJfT4WKKA6L1LS7-qyX84Zd6mYS9hrdJB18R_bF2p5KCR__KfqmFQQpvQdc2mN2F2BuUEjjaYFHVmfTbRD97dkc/s400/085+-+4+-+Unfinished+Wing.JPG" border="0" /></a> The "historic" wing - unmaintained - reminds me of Alcatraz<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqN_5IKtnxPxlJsTfTYsoxP28Wy4wIF-IdJIUUWmoOQ-j9eHQyhUKn-dp5Jaa3S872Q78j89ue7spM164SzSGYEc0S75d7HgF_dX879mtkNkssYXEiwfr45mJJ4O1VrG4uNfxsuKHGo8Os/s1600-h/085+-+5+-+Picture+of+a+Picture+of+the+original+road.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199672099576483314" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqN_5IKtnxPxlJsTfTYsoxP28Wy4wIF-IdJIUUWmoOQ-j9eHQyhUKn-dp5Jaa3S872Q78j89ue7spM164SzSGYEc0S75d7HgF_dX879mtkNkssYXEiwfr45mJJ4O1VrG4uNfxsuKHGo8Os/s400/085+-+5+-+Picture+of+a+Picture+of+the+original+road.JPG" border="0" /></a> - Poster of the old road to Ushuaia in the 1950's<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiABjuEovSCy7dVDNBSQuvqfwN1GzTvGTTPyj0rzlDNftRQHKNCvH7Ns8Cu0FYkVGllkLWicwFGRTt6BmCsNqG0Io6l3hZMsk6KJBLIpYyanXsgapoBMx8XYt2NN5PpbgPZKOu82mqN6FeV/s1600-h/085+-+6+-+Ushuaia+at+Night+-+Final+Resting+Place.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199672103871450626" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiABjuEovSCy7dVDNBSQuvqfwN1GzTvGTTPyj0rzlDNftRQHKNCvH7Ns8Cu0FYkVGllkLWicwFGRTt6BmCsNqG0Io6l3hZMsk6KJBLIpYyanXsgapoBMx8XYt2NN5PpbgPZKOu82mqN6FeV/s400/085+-+6+-+Ushuaia+at+Night+-+Final+Resting+Place.JPG" border="0" /></a> Final resting place of my broken hub shell - overlooking Ushuaia just before we left<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZd2br_ntaJ1RxwTpo5lSY38Ov2KSxqBDAlL6gcZ5LCOl7c4E784Z6b_G3HjuzzYrUpF6N-vKRn7qz-p7Ab-I_pGRqJSFXWUc2yPYjd9lp4AEHHNpUa9irm87p3Lb9vEYqWwrt1bRzSqK5/s1600-h/086+-+1+-+La+Boca+Bridge.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199672103871450642" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZd2br_ntaJ1RxwTpo5lSY38Ov2KSxqBDAlL6gcZ5LCOl7c4E784Z6b_G3HjuzzYrUpF6N-vKRn7qz-p7Ab-I_pGRqJSFXWUc2yPYjd9lp4AEHHNpUa9irm87p3Lb9vEYqWwrt1bRzSqK5/s400/086+-+1+-+La+Boca+Bridge.jpg" border="0" /></a> - Old Industrial Bridge in B. Aires near la Boca (I like old steelwork) - day 86<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPEREldifqLO1q6vDK2kaQbgG5V3gTPeVflem01U3sXJ7mBfQLlcOWVlGBdbI-ZEc587YRnsZn82LZzbfiE7Ek6KL7UFnP9KUw1tA9-btssuOx4jSQZGocndqO2HAHeeB7ALT8rhBfRsYc/s1600-h/086+-+2+-+Camanito.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199672108166417954" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPEREldifqLO1q6vDK2kaQbgG5V3gTPeVflem01U3sXJ7mBfQLlcOWVlGBdbI-ZEc587YRnsZn82LZzbfiE7Ek6KL7UFnP9KUw1tA9-btssuOx4jSQZGocndqO2HAHeeB7ALT8rhBfRsYc/s400/086+-+2+-+Camanito.jpg" border="0" /></a> - Camanito, La Boca, B. A.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwuKEl-URNZId3Ia384PDhyphenhyphen73JwKwiOqDDEFa8VNSbRbRWPxgaIIa0Vm7UjZKIJ7UM2DsU4YqS8-qsufU71SLOHMG77Y59d2SZLEGhp2FQvNwKG5xChuRUdsvBrpELqkAePe1J9fDce2tt/s1600-h/086+-+3+-+Camanito+-+Market+scene.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199671803223739794" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwuKEl-URNZId3Ia384PDhyphenhyphen73JwKwiOqDDEFa8VNSbRbRWPxgaIIa0Vm7UjZKIJ7UM2DsU4YqS8-qsufU71SLOHMG77Y59d2SZLEGhp2FQvNwKG5xChuRUdsvBrpELqkAePe1J9fDce2tt/s400/086+-+3+-+Camanito+-+Market+scene.jpg" border="0" /></a> Market Scene - La Boca<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq8vQFJt_GdEyMUFNfQ0paA5itURvO-2HDeZk_HmDrCB8ZuH0wKKYph3vk3uEZwns6nZpAYJ4XrWCb9v2-W_io7ZiKIvjehH6kXA3jGeZY4BY5etktzy1ynf7rtgfAQMLO4Mckkb_CZilV/s1600-h/086+-+4+-+Caminito+-+Tango.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199671807518707106" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq8vQFJt_GdEyMUFNfQ0paA5itURvO-2HDeZk_HmDrCB8ZuH0wKKYph3vk3uEZwns6nZpAYJ4XrWCb9v2-W_io7ZiKIvjehH6kXA3jGeZY4BY5etktzy1ynf7rtgfAQMLO4Mckkb_CZilV/s400/086+-+4+-+Caminito+-+Tango.jpg" border="0" /></a> Tango - La Boca<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCKC3tVseZ1hZwcAWUDW0OyvKtiUgvnFUOLOviDRdFUR3D0dFSjku0wlluK9D9M-oF1zL5F6jKw3yuVL8ManpRHv9jbO4jl2PO3YD3_JZoyplDw-cQruLhkXQ7wR4goZIkNzv7Pc3uJmiD/s1600-h/086+-+5+-+Old+and+New+Cranes.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199671807518707122" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCKC3tVseZ1hZwcAWUDW0OyvKtiUgvnFUOLOviDRdFUR3D0dFSjku0wlluK9D9M-oF1zL5F6jKw3yuVL8ManpRHv9jbO4jl2PO3YD3_JZoyplDw-cQruLhkXQ7wR4goZIkNzv7Pc3uJmiD/s400/086+-+5+-+Old+and+New+Cranes.jpg" border="0" /></a> Old and New Cranes, downtown B. A.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_htKV_Xn8PoRSj-gPjZguVpo1pBYZzboVeqC4g1Y-qOjDweBMpk4jskTaro6_e3oC4Uble0xKnJQVeQ2Ritnieabysep2WKfFzfKUV-1oZnKXCpHofQGS7TeV0iLJegWQNUHXKVZreOYr/s1600-h/086+-+6+-+New+Bridge+Old+Ship.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199671816108641730" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_htKV_Xn8PoRSj-gPjZguVpo1pBYZzboVeqC4g1Y-qOjDweBMpk4jskTaro6_e3oC4Uble0xKnJQVeQ2Ritnieabysep2WKfFzfKUV-1oZnKXCpHofQGS7TeV0iLJegWQNUHXKVZreOYr/s400/086+-+6+-+New+Bridge+Old+Ship.jpg" border="0" /></a> New Bridge, Old Ship, B.A.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd30SJX3gYfWudMIx182V1ZrGlytRpMJgaxAUmAzDPpgdMcMKMlHEs03whcuhGXKYrkL4v4-2WaKrj724i7zueQCt03TjvftAI5OijVPIQm3S_Lek4JlD7v56Qot9KEbe9WfC8r5sKEplZ/s1600-h/086+-+7+-+Islas+Malvinas+War+Memorial.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199671816108641746" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd30SJX3gYfWudMIx182V1ZrGlytRpMJgaxAUmAzDPpgdMcMKMlHEs03whcuhGXKYrkL4v4-2WaKrj724i7zueQCt03TjvftAI5OijVPIQm3S_Lek4JlD7v56Qot9KEbe9WfC8r5sKEplZ/s400/086+-+7+-+Islas+Malvinas+War+Memorial.jpg" border="0" /></a> Malvinas War Memorial, B.A. Day 87<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuWBRjAwokLaBWEZ4Z9dmorrqTvQVS-y8qENNqbCBHu_MtkRU_XlMWrDXWt_Yu28U99gorxYkMGZSSwEGcGQXbUoR-bDqKhhgzqY6W58msrjg8m4Vo9xd_7BHn45pq6QwQq-hHYNUO7BWz/s1600-h/087+-+1+-+Obelisk.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199670845446032706" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuWBRjAwokLaBWEZ4Z9dmorrqTvQVS-y8qENNqbCBHu_MtkRU_XlMWrDXWt_Yu28U99gorxYkMGZSSwEGcGQXbUoR-bDqKhhgzqY6W58msrjg8m4Vo9xd_7BHn45pq6QwQq-hHYNUO7BWz/s400/087+-+1+-+Obelisk.jpg" border="0" /></a> The Obelisk - B.A. - 87<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjewioxCZaOXlM68J9fEpyEMy1klecz9sFm-M1INTknK7T0wr9K3MGO39W8F4lsvLQioONtPitghIVRpsf0FozpYWViytlLT3UL9CfNHoYT-6yj6Xp0TGKizhsKeR44IJJKKLj7pMSJrVpj/s1600-h/088+-+1+-+Waterfront+Walk+-+Plants.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199670849741000018" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjewioxCZaOXlM68J9fEpyEMy1klecz9sFm-M1INTknK7T0wr9K3MGO39W8F4lsvLQioONtPitghIVRpsf0FozpYWViytlLT3UL9CfNHoYT-6yj6Xp0TGKizhsKeR44IJJKKLj7pMSJrVpj/s400/088+-+1+-+Waterfront+Walk+-+Plants.jpg" border="0" /></a> Hiking in downtown park, 88<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtODOvG1kr3HUv2g5q8IxaMeu7zV9qo-jshRMl1GhLbo9uyWIL8kqGwuD-VGRE_Y3frCLzQod_u8Hc7Ot3gMZro04XhBNLnSA4SXx07x_zuBLhtmxzzVJ9L3RByiDeFte96tqpSLurH8UJ/s1600-h/088+-+2+-+Waterfront+Walk+-+Scene.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199670854035967330" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtODOvG1kr3HUv2g5q8IxaMeu7zV9qo-jshRMl1GhLbo9uyWIL8kqGwuD-VGRE_Y3frCLzQod_u8Hc7Ot3gMZro04XhBNLnSA4SXx07x_zuBLhtmxzzVJ9L3RByiDeFte96tqpSLurH8UJ/s400/088+-+2+-+Waterfront+Walk+-+Scene.jpg" border="0" /></a> Same Park, 88<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvezJQ5xkobvwTrjr0swkkxZW26Uaz5piJzRc_9vDGXnFSwHgdSjIYdiOTIfela3MTT-t0mwUTMF0uabSw0HG3BIHhipxfvPdxnSJpkkvOJDUahylyllTd_f2lADA0BkssbrQNjs76eFG/s1600-h/088+-+3+-+Underground+Scene.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199670854035967346" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvezJQ5xkobvwTrjr0swkkxZW26Uaz5piJzRc_9vDGXnFSwHgdSjIYdiOTIfela3MTT-t0mwUTMF0uabSw0HG3BIHhipxfvPdxnSJpkkvOJDUahylyllTd_f2lADA0BkssbrQNjs76eFG/s400/088+-+3+-+Underground+Scene.jpg" border="0" /></a> B.A. Underground scene, 88<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw3VJ9k2mTcFjYR7xECho1aYPxtiSCbHj_vnOu2bmgD2Fja3epS0ymO_l2bxnvfP5S5uag6t0aUnz7u8jtkEZffe1K0Ldn1XSpQaPjjL8R-H1Z0F8_CQmhzYCau6Hs1DbITzNi9mu116WO/s1600-h/088+-+4+-+Cemetery.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199670858330934658" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw3VJ9k2mTcFjYR7xECho1aYPxtiSCbHj_vnOu2bmgD2Fja3epS0ymO_l2bxnvfP5S5uag6t0aUnz7u8jtkEZffe1K0Ldn1XSpQaPjjL8R-H1Z0F8_CQmhzYCau6Hs1DbITzNi9mu116WO/s400/088+-+4+-+Cemetery.jpg" border="0" /></a> Ricoleta Cemetery, 88<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVOis73DTd7Tpoxr7FARd16ZWhQyQD1dvAu8AcPMI6vTijxDeZ83UfK66x9hwe3AyKHHt2VttYvSc8PCu4KU6jRNDwLVYUFFLf8XFxHXAMynzq8AEpvFxKJdTVNHPIITYLQL7F-jONqrqM/s1600-h/089+-+1+-+Botanical+Garden.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199670029402246386" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVOis73DTd7Tpoxr7FARd16ZWhQyQD1dvAu8AcPMI6vTijxDeZ83UfK66x9hwe3AyKHHt2VttYvSc8PCu4KU6jRNDwLVYUFFLf8XFxHXAMynzq8AEpvFxKJdTVNHPIITYLQL7F-jONqrqM/s400/089+-+1+-+Botanical+Garden.jpg" border="0" /></a> Botanical Garden - 89<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnkNEPEwLIiDH6697CQCCSJfSRWQ-s6jFXi8EthKo_bfVXiXcMEUoyOCBvwsXRWHwD3I91wE8hqaRkBqEA3QfydhQT5Llrxy25XBvBm5pqHK_sK1qI5bOpvohEPKEebgcTR64KPJd2w3CD/s1600-h/089+-+2+-+Zoo+-+Aviary.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199670037992180994" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnkNEPEwLIiDH6697CQCCSJfSRWQ-s6jFXi8EthKo_bfVXiXcMEUoyOCBvwsXRWHwD3I91wE8hqaRkBqEA3QfydhQT5Llrxy25XBvBm5pqHK_sK1qI5bOpvohEPKEebgcTR64KPJd2w3CD/s400/089+-+2+-+Zoo+-+Aviary.jpg" border="0" /></a> Zoo, Aiviary, 89<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1beaOzj5wazUJ46cEGMis-Uyiizn2_9z87Dip6zQNsIUxaYCC8xULhZhjzv-MevsZfnj_uqjJONYdC_KZyZZIT54JS_eFaii_ceoVjudr0nqWGtdQ6qpG5eHR1v4gb2nNudV5rJAvF-3N/s1600-h/089+-+3+-+Zoo+2+-+Rhino+in+BA.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199670037992181010" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1beaOzj5wazUJ46cEGMis-Uyiizn2_9z87Dip6zQNsIUxaYCC8xULhZhjzv-MevsZfnj_uqjJONYdC_KZyZZIT54JS_eFaii_ceoVjudr0nqWGtdQ6qpG5eHR1v4gb2nNudV5rJAvF-3N/s400/089+-+3+-+Zoo+2+-+Rhino+in+BA.jpg" border="0" /></a> Zoo - Rhinos and apartment blocks, 89<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2nyziaKf62uoz7gWMxt16w2-pXz77w_ZqTLmljfibljAokK1JN6oASWMgPTMTGmztRKqCguZ7WE15C2_yMWJT0UjU0WxebNlWvWe8U7al_e1SVlgVU3w_J-T8a8tYNrZYy5Jh3TyuRexe/s1600-h/090+-+1+-+With+Florencia.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199670042287148322" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2nyziaKf62uoz7gWMxt16w2-pXz77w_ZqTLmljfibljAokK1JN6oASWMgPTMTGmztRKqCguZ7WE15C2_yMWJT0UjU0WxebNlWvWe8U7al_e1SVlgVU3w_J-T8a8tYNrZYy5Jh3TyuRexe/s400/090+-+1+-+With+Florencia.jpg" border="0" /></a> Meeting up with Florencia again after 3 months - 90<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMKvlwWG2dNHln14-xgNKGtFrPwpPf84sCJwerbioDc-N9-aFem4qvS-SgwkNk4B7Gz9BiLex_z-qfW0-D2enCqzs6vsNozYqyqHRuQOOBFjqjtjKCrHcA9j6FzLL4iBGII69SJ-82zM-/s1600-h/090+-+2+-+Cafe+Tortoni.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199670046582115634" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMKvlwWG2dNHln14-xgNKGtFrPwpPf84sCJwerbioDc-N9-aFem4qvS-SgwkNk4B7Gz9BiLex_z-qfW0-D2enCqzs6vsNozYqyqHRuQOOBFjqjtjKCrHcA9j6FzLL4iBGII69SJ-82zM-/s400/090+-+2+-+Cafe+Tortoni.jpg" border="0" /></a> Cafe Tortoni - Nice, 150 yr old place for cake, coffee, or ice cream. 90<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiItl0TQjRCUU3SAWCI0yCOky_iU8y-qdQHK7KdsPRNEhQwJnZarqNJJbvvrh9kWEUt4cmsClHB481t05dphWRP1j1Qq2_csSssRI8suYjjCiKQJh2Ml84xwmHomEfon6LsvW4SZJyp9yGR/s1600-h/091+-+1+-+Free+Tibet.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199669105984277666" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiItl0TQjRCUU3SAWCI0yCOky_iU8y-qdQHK7KdsPRNEhQwJnZarqNJJbvvrh9kWEUt4cmsClHB481t05dphWRP1j1Qq2_csSssRI8suYjjCiKQJh2Ml84xwmHomEfon6LsvW4SZJyp9yGR/s400/091+-+1+-+Free+Tibet.jpg" border="0" /></a> Olympic Torch Day - Free Tibet - Anti-China protesters - 91<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5KxwRDF7TKt3UJkxS-YIPtZYnbE8KOrlLH3ZEbPlaAHWsbji5g59wbztBMy2JQD59ypcsJ8_qaS6NngKwnQjZh0cWiyx-qr5L7fJ3FjmZGS-mfugGhkUlnpjcRrXE4_mRTTRBU49KhaT/s1600-h/091+-+2+-+Pro+China.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199669110279244978" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5KxwRDF7TKt3UJkxS-YIPtZYnbE8KOrlLH3ZEbPlaAHWsbji5g59wbztBMy2JQD59ypcsJ8_qaS6NngKwnQjZh0cWiyx-qr5L7fJ3FjmZGS-mfugGhkUlnpjcRrXE4_mRTTRBU49KhaT/s400/091+-+2+-+Pro+China.jpg" border="0" /></a> Pro China demonstrator - 91<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqvCBNYLKx3PW1jjgsSVGIUY9JsBuaVLOjIkbXdw5ZuYyA3ACbyBEbD1Um_ueScP6d1AXKFXh2WC7MrBE-hJxlVCzrNiHSLU-Y8L0qqbeMgcWsdpvPHNU_rgoVX_fi2AM9bGPAR-pnwo01/s1600-h/091+-+3+-+Free+TShirt.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199669114574212290" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqvCBNYLKx3PW1jjgsSVGIUY9JsBuaVLOjIkbXdw5ZuYyA3ACbyBEbD1Um_ueScP6d1AXKFXh2WC7MrBE-hJxlVCzrNiHSLU-Y8L0qqbeMgcWsdpvPHNU_rgoVX_fi2AM9bGPAR-pnwo01/s400/091+-+3+-+Free+TShirt.jpg" border="0" /></a> Free T-Shirt!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAKYdCJ7i35Z1-NcsKTHDsa2is9t8gXVwAxT1eBXPAN55BMVsnCCPn6ZZ0PwPsEwJXeAWG93ccigvZhKp-FuuYsqW0PONfDa7jGNQrc_9Yl5r2Q_yhh3jFGqWGJrnFnVwFh24tR6IrISCZ/s1600-h/091+-+4+-+Lurking.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199669114574212306" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAKYdCJ7i35Z1-NcsKTHDsa2is9t8gXVwAxT1eBXPAN55BMVsnCCPn6ZZ0PwPsEwJXeAWG93ccigvZhKp-FuuYsqW0PONfDa7jGNQrc_9Yl5r2Q_yhh3jFGqWGJrnFnVwFh24tR6IrISCZ/s400/091+-+4+-+Lurking.jpg" border="0" /></a> Me lurking behind olympic athlete - 91<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYE_HAGnLubXJ47Y45rXQQkUXID5OLg2aBWJeZIMtFN_NYeBFGbSXoLDffTDyjV71zqrhiBv0O_V07Eld_ZmlOZSW8ZcidRIxCvdO4fKj_JvL77f5k8LKganHPGzfdsSziNB3xajmOYAe/s1600-h/091+-+5+-+The+Torch.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199669118869179618" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYE_HAGnLubXJ47Y45rXQQkUXID5OLg2aBWJeZIMtFN_NYeBFGbSXoLDffTDyjV71zqrhiBv0O_V07Eld_ZmlOZSW8ZcidRIxCvdO4fKj_JvL77f5k8LKganHPGzfdsSziNB3xajmOYAe/s400/091+-+5+-+The+Torch.jpg" border="0" /></a> She gets the torch and is off! 91<br /></div><div></div><div><br />WEEK 13 Part 2 Finally begins - sorta</div><div><br />Day 85 - April 5 -</div><div> </div><div><br />Well, today is the day - final day in Ushuaia. Bikes are already packed, but there's still a few jobs that could be done. I decide to take a closer look at my tires and try to keep their interior delamination from causing more punctures by cutting up parts of a tube and gluing them to the problem areas. Actually, they don't seem much worse than a few weeks ago when all this started, so hopefully they'll hold up for that last few 1000km - finding good tires down here is near impossible.</div><div><br />Beyond that, not much happening today - some blog work, and with a few hours to go, I decide to check out the local museum - actually 3-in-one: maritime museum, penal colony, and art gallery. Well worth the trip and entry fee - definitely spend more thant the 75minutes I had. It's interesting how many countries decide to put their penal colonies at arm's length - Australia, Siberia, and here, Argentina. If you really did wrong (or weren't a 'right thinker' and pissed-off the State) , this is where you'd end up. There's quite a few colorful depictions of inmates and living conditions as well as one wing of the building which is being allowed to gradually decompose - an eerie place, about 5 degrees colder than the rest (it's autumn now and this wing isn't heated). The art gallery and maritime museum are also worth the visit.</div><div><br />And then it's time to go. Taxi to the airport, hagglle with the driver, brace ourselves for the final overweight penalty (400pesos or $125 - over 1/2 a ticket which is a bit outrageous as we're 40kg over and a ticket includes a complete human plus 20kg of baggage, but who are we to argue). Then there's the airport tax, and finally we get to BA where the next task of finding a big taxi complicates things (i.e. makes them more expensive and slower). And at 1:45am we finally make it to our prebooked hostel. Only problem is reception closes at 1:30 sharp, no exceptions. So here Dave and I are, 2 big bike boxes and other gear, on a BA sidewalk in the middle of the night. We plead with the hostel attendant but he won't budge, despite having our reservations. He finally offers to find us another hostel, and we keep wearing him down, asking him to also find us another big taxi ... (after all, he's going to have to pass us on the way out - all these conversations are takng place via the intercom). After 20min or so, he finally relents and checks us in after all and we breath a BIG sigh of relief. So if staying at the V&S hostel - be sure to arrive on time (of course our delayed flight didn't help much either). Well, we finally made it to BA and have a roof over our heads and our bikes stashed.</div><div><br />Days 86 - 91 Buenos Aires *************<br />OK, I'll save some of the details - we're basically just running errands and touring the city. No cycling, no trekking, just a lot of walking around.</div><div><br />Sunday (86) we basically bum around town. Walk and walk and walk some more. First we head to La Boca, the "working class", slum area except for a few square blocks on Av. Camalito where the bus drops us off and we are surrounded by a mix of New Orleans and Tango - lots of bright, old buildings with iron work and lots of street vendors and dancers. Almost all artificial, but still worth the look - just take line 152 to the end.</div><div><br />Afternoon is in the San Telmo area where the food at Desnivel on La Defensa south of Independencia, is definitely worth a visit or two. Dave and Joe and Aaron first ate here in January and it was good to be back, except for the apparent electrical short in a junction box that was happily welding itself away as we walked in. I'm amazed more buildings don't burn down around here.</div><div><br />We stop by the antiques flea market which is on every weekend - also a good way to spend a few hours. I only buy a not-terribly-antique pen (still, a maybe 20-year-old "Industria Argentina" Cross pen) to replace the empty cartridge in my Swiss-Army pen/USB stick/knife/light for which I have yet to find a refill...</div><div><br />Finally we walk around the docks area - now home to such illuminary establishments as TGI Fridays and Hooters. Still, the mix of modern and original architecture and landmarks (old cranes and ships) makes it worth checking out.</div><div><br />Monday (87) is mostly business - we find out the details of ferries to Uruguay and obtaining a Brazilian visa. Dave with his 3 passports can select Ireland for which no visa is required. While myself, the person who's actually lived in Europe for 8 years and speaks German fluently but can't get any other passport, need 3 business days, bank statements, pictures, and US$150. Need to think about that. We also pick up a few maps and figure out timelines and it'll definitely be tight. I'm still thinking of cycling from here but probably skipping Brazil - just Uruguay and Argentina for now, but Dave wants to bus a bit more than 1/2 way and stick to Argentina.<br />I find a place to theoretically fix my camera - nobody offers global warranties on these lower end models and I have no idea what it will cost but they think maybe 200pesos or less, so what the heck.</div><div><br />Tuesday (88) is mostly sightseeing - finally hiking along the big park at the waterfront - also worth the trip - about 4km of paths right in the heart of the city with a semi-natural environment all around. From there we head to the famous old cemetary and modern art museum. The museum's mostly closed but the cemetary is an eerie place - very vertical with one towering carved granite slab fighting for space with its neighbors. Even in death the competition seems to go on for the rich and famous of Argentina. Many of the mausuleums have windows so you can still view the coffins often stacked 6 or more on top of each other and deep into the earth. Also worth the trip for the morbidly inclined. We found one coffin rotting away, complete with exposed skeleton...</div><div><br />Wednesday (89) we see the botanical garden (pretty small) and zoo (nothing spectacular, but if you have time it's quite nice and fairly affordable) and later meet up with Gudrun and Jan-Willem who we last saw way back in Chalten. They also made it all the way to Ushuaia and are now heading north as well. We go out for food and consider biking together at least through parts of Bolivia where things get very remote. </div><div><br />I pick up my unrepaired camera after the price has grown substantially and the repair time as well.</div><div><br />Thursday (90) it's back to the bus station - we finally decide on a plan to head to Iguazu and then over to Tucuman where we may meet up with Gudrun and Jan-Willem, but after some communications it looks like that may not happen either, but who knows.</div><div><br />At any rate, we're on a bus on Friday evening and hopefully shipping our bikes the same day.<br />We spend the rest of the day getting our bikes ready and in the late afternoon meet up with Florencia from way back in week 1 at Malargue. It's good to catch up and her Peruvian boyfriend gives us a few tips for our upcoming travel. We finish up with dinner on Lavalle St followed by ice cream at Cafe Tortoni - definitely worth checking out - the oldest cafe in town.</div><div><br />Friday (91) is somewhat chaotic. Nothing big planned, but Dave wants to check out the camera possibilities since his ceased to function at the zoo. On the way we head past the main obelisk and note the various stages and pro- and anti- Chinese demonstrators. Turns out the Olympic torch is in town today - one day only. We keep walking and look for a few bike parts and eventually cross paths with the torch so we decide to see if we can catch it. We're by the free, fine-art museum so we have a quick look inside, then eat at the cafe which happens to be right on the torch route - not a bad place to have a pizza and wait for the torch to come.</div><div><br />But it seems to be late so afterwards we keep walking along the route and eventually see it - only it's being held by an actually Argentine athlete and it hasn't been lit yet. So this is a good place to wait and a few minutes later, the giant carneval and chaos of the torch and its many support buses and police vehicles and ambulances passes by and the fire is passed from one carrier to the next. An interesting site and we even got free T-shirts.</div><div><br />Well, that's about it for BA. I have another quick look at the art museum, head back to the hostel, and clean up the memory cards and then it's time to go.</div><div><br />We still have over an hour to cover about 2km, and the hostel calls us a big cab - should be here in 15min. Only problem is it's 25minutes later, and it's a small cab, and now we're a block away from the hostel with no plan, no time for another taxi, and 30minutes to go.</div><div><br />This is bad. Dave runs to the hostel, I wait with the boxes, and it starts to rain.</div><div><br />Finally we decide to head to the station sans bike boxes. Once there, either one of us will go to Igazu or we'll change our tickets. In the end, the latter option works out so after an amazingly hectic evening, disaster is averted and we end up spending another day in BA. After returning from the bust station, we both breath a sign of relief & have dinner with a few fellow travellers from the hostel. We'll try this again in week 14.<br /><br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwzIuxhNT3JqkTNpSu3Ywv0HgY_SM6zyGQw482FyZSb68cTaLQF0XKLOSYpJPDqcJ3EHmFIcvNDT2dkJKH8YA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>For Pat - this is just outside Camanito - the background music is from Brazil</div></div></div></div></div><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzzYdkfGHbNcbNJBvGqn-OY7y9ADPNIoJkXuaLiYQeHKEmXcjwV2-NiizNGVK6fxGT8ZDfiM-AKH3buYiwMZQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Tour of Ushuaia Prison<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzokMsmhKOCICKcHfx_pMvOVGAJefeYIq6X8UyOsq-LTxMB7A19tRLvSB6LWN4a9icivuN-44oMxB6GXFuOlQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Final Resting Place of Phil Wood<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dybjfsekU0ET-yJvNBe0-FJM9rARa32ZmNWeW5w5lp2SAWhVKqxXt6yN6RUVpQE628XRjGPz1LHNBTIGRbhug' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>The Olympic Torch going by<br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwdNp1XORtarki6a_oVfLSZen_WnSpNRVOfwSaIUaZHxgIBoNybMXFpmC2neV5UczCzw5Tp2fTvQdxbUpJeRQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Ricoleta CemetaryMarcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-45946940971522241552008-07-06T08:59:00.000-07:002008-07-07T08:44:50.702-07:00Week 24 - Quite a week - High Point, Death Road, Lago Titicaca, and ... 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style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPPbzXGaE3Dz-6Qn_mLps0HVj7WQ7r6oGYyPqRYMW1i_hA9wvmUcdwKnDf9QGF8jD7qjfzlusJjddwPdislrny4Kj9vu5E8TIBRh41YgcgY7t1XzcbCe5V3KVnaZkv9k3JeRGeLOsexOQQ/s400/168-1+-+Final+Group+Shot+in+Copacabana.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220291803086604066" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC85mED6MUZvXsRFzGAwVW3fFhC1Gd9FdEsTa0OoLN4a5PQhYIGGiuxt7d-WWwSErJZVMPS0qnKUPb1bVEEsbtIPMpsIF2UM28LqOplQQnatAFQeBK4mzH_sMxOjTdjfa2ynOMj44y7pw8/s1600-h/168-2+-+The+Border.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC85mED6MUZvXsRFzGAwVW3fFhC1Gd9FdEsTa0OoLN4a5PQhYIGGiuxt7d-WWwSErJZVMPS0qnKUPb1bVEEsbtIPMpsIF2UM28LqOplQQnatAFQeBK4mzH_sMxOjTdjfa2ynOMj44y7pw8/s400/168-2+-+The+Border.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220291807497844578" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDV0WWlDSTGkJiCavP1PTPUW3sSUoB_tsvai29lDsuqdyiwcztn9-DHpV129Nqm8mdIK2dwJA_AGZkYr_vyu0Rwh6h1qVHXDH8X1uVq-MprxC7cDMir5f6QoR83Ag-cA0QM9bmKxv2h7fH/s1600-h/168-3+-+Amphibious+Bicycle.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDV0WWlDSTGkJiCavP1PTPUW3sSUoB_tsvai29lDsuqdyiwcztn9-DHpV129Nqm8mdIK2dwJA_AGZkYr_vyu0Rwh6h1qVHXDH8X1uVq-MprxC7cDMir5f6QoR83Ag-cA0QM9bmKxv2h7fH/s400/168-3+-+Amphibious+Bicycle.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220291805775027938" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFqgPqyU0anKaFs4MFuBeT57A6vxwriIWw3Vvzqc3hf_IIX3hbcA7xOeT4JHTAhSt1bihszgn52KOhLjX0r-sA3Rel0Koer63Zh-FUNPAXJUoI7NSBtHq6AadMw9v2mlNQxHkM_qzatlTD/s1600-h/168-4+-+Ilave+Not+Puno.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFqgPqyU0anKaFs4MFuBeT57A6vxwriIWw3Vvzqc3hf_IIX3hbcA7xOeT4JHTAhSt1bihszgn52KOhLjX0r-sA3Rel0Koer63Zh-FUNPAXJUoI7NSBtHq6AadMw9v2mlNQxHkM_qzatlTD/s400/168-4+-+Ilave+Not+Puno.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220291808272155250" border="0" /></a><br />Week 24 - Quite a week - High Point, Death Road, Lago Titicaca, and ... Peru<br /><br />Day 162 - The High Point of the Trip<br />Well, today is it. Last "night" passed without much or any sleep, but I was able to make the log entry in one corner of the tiny refugio and then continue Dostoyevski - managed to read "The Grand Inquisitor" although I probably wasn't in the best frame of mind for it so I'll probably reread it at some point. Well and then it was all of 8pm, 5 hours to go.<br /><br />But time passed slow. Not sure if I slept at all - breathing at 5300m is quite a challenge. There was a lot of heavy breathing and a fair amount of coughing all around - only Fanny said she slept OK, but unfortunately, she decided not to attempt the summit.<br /><br />So every 90min or so I decide to check what time it is and eventually 12:30am comes and it's time. Most of us have headaches, but for me just getting up, having a mate de coca and some breakfast almost gets rid of it. And once underway it disappears completely. Other than difficulty breathing and the near total lack of energy, it will be the only altitude sickness symptom I experience.<br /><br />I actually feel like a real mountaineer: starting in the middle of the night, headlamp, boots, crampons, rope... it's really an amazing environment. Even more amazing is my guide - 50 years old and about twice a week he leads people to 6088m, sometime higher on other peaks.<br /><br />This is not easy - Jan-Willem makes a good point - this is probably what it feels like to reach the age where breathing becomes challenging - you take a few steps and find your heart racing and feel unable to catch your breath. Even our guides have quite pronounced breathing. At least they have a relaxed pace and even so, we are actually faster than your average group. This despite my frequent stops for some night photography under a nearly full moon and a fully white mountain.<br /><br />We leave the refugio just before 2am and the first few hours pass uneventfully, although an extra lung or two would come in handy.<br /><br />This is a heavily travelled trail over mostly snow, actually, it's surprisingly non-technical - if it weren't around 6000m I'd say piece of cake.<br /><br />The only scary bit is the summit itself - the snow and ice faces get steeper and steeper and we're following switchbacks to the very top which is a very narrow ridge of ice/snow and an extremely steep cliff down the other side - just hope a big chunk of this doesn't decide to liberate itself while we cross. Gudrun plants her axe at one point and sends a fairly decent chunk of it into the abyss.<br /><br />But this also is over quite quickly and we're at the summit - also a bit scary - unlike most summits I've been to, this one is just tiny - there's barely room for all of us and the snow slopes away in all directions. I'm almost paranoid about taking off my backpack and putting things down and the guide telling us not to get close to that edge, it may break off, doesn't exude confidence.<br /><br />The guides are quite good, though, we're all anchored in at the top and the whole summit passes without incident - just your normal picture taking session. My guide agrees to wait for sunrise which is just amazing, and then he lets me rappel down the face that more advanced folks climb up. Only each time I reach the end of my rope I need to anchor myself into the face - not too difficult (maybe 60deg or so, not vertical) - and wait for him.This would make a nice double-black-diamond ski run although the snow is icy and rough. We later see folks hiking up with skis in hand.<br /><br />And before long, it's over - less than 2 hours after sunrise we're back at the refugio and by 11am we're down in the valley at our first night's refugio, looking up and finding it hard to believe that only 4 hours ago we were on the summit of "that".<br /><br />The rest of the day is pretty easy going - return to LaPaz, some basic chores, and dinner out together. I'm definitely not feeling 100%, but hope it will pass.<br /><br />Day 163 -<br />OK, still not feeling 100% - somehow it just seems hard to spend time here without a bout or two or three of Montezuma's revenge - and this time throw in a pretty decent chest cold. Oh well, won't get too much done today. At least manage to spend some quality time on WiFi and make a few VOIP calls and do internet/finance chores.<br /><br />Day 164 -<br />Still not 100%, but time is running low and the others want to set out for Lake Titicaca tomorrow. So despite some reservations, today will be "Death Road" day. I'm to late to do an organized trip, and since I basically have all the gear I need, I'd really rather not. So I finally head out from the hostel around 9:20 (normal tours start around 7). The first step is to cycle to La Cumbre (the summit) at around 4670m. That's 1000 up from the hostel and I do manage to bike through LaPaz, through a protest that's closed the road, and about 250m vertical. But I realize I'll be cutting it close if I want to return today, so I break down and talk to a taxi driver who's just sat down for breakfast. He'll take me to the pass for 40Bs ($5.50). Deal.<br /><br />So by 10:30 I, too, am at the summit and some of the big groups are just unloading their vans. I get a bit of a head start and notice my front wheel is a bit spongy - needs air. Stop, refill, get passed by group, then start off again. The first downhill section is amazing - really fast and smooth - I soon pass the group at around 65km/h and won't pass or get passed by another cyclist for the rest of the day. After 20min or so I won't even see any cyclists until I reach bottom and after entering the "Death Road", I won't really see anyone until just before the end. Quite amazing - I was expecting this overrun road, but nobody in sight all day.<br /><br />The first 30km are paved, and they include a narcotics checkpoint and the spot to by a ticket for the "mountain bike park" - 24Bs (at around 20km). Finally the turnoff arrives - not really marked except for a sign indicating straight for Coroico and right for the first town on the death road. Turn right here and immediately you're in the thick of it. By now you're already 1500m below the summit and in clouds with amazing green vegetation. The clouds tend to mask the fact that you don't want to leave the road, especially on the side that drops off into grey mist.<br /><br />A few km further and the clouds mostly part - now you can appreciate the drop-offs. They're not quite vertical, but awefully close. The road itself is just amazing - this 3-5m wide ribbon chiseled out of some amazingly steep mountainsides. In quite a few places the drop-off is near vertical, but as a cyclist it's really not that hard. Just keep your cool and don't try to set a speed record and you'll probably be fine.<br /><br />In my case the desolation makes it especially easy to descend. Apparently the occasional drunken minibus driver has caused some serious accidents. I overheard there have been 8 cycle fatalities in total - a bit high perhaps, although well over 100 people/day do this.<br /><br />The road keeps heading down and down and down. This is just too easy. 3hours and about 62km from the summit and you reach bottom - Yolaca at around 1250m. This is where the normal tours end. Pampered novices can't be expected to bike uphill. Coroico is still 7km and 500m vertical away up a cobblestone road.<br /><br />It's amazing - lots of air to breath again and no load on my bike and this hill practically bikes itself. Only my chest cold still gives me grief.<br /><br />And by 2:45 I'm in town and looking for the first way back to LaPaz. This turns out to be a challenge - the minibus terminal is chaotic with some seriously unhappy people trying to figure out the same thing as myself. Apparently, for reasons I don't comprehend (possibly due to my still mostly non-existent Spanish, but in this case I'm not sure), there are no more buses for LaPaz today.<br /><br />OK. Taxi 1. 300Bs just for La Cumbre. Taxi 2, 3, 4,... 300Bs.<br /><br />OK, plan C - who else is going to LaPaz? I head into town and within 10min spot an empty van covered in bicycles. Promising. The driver is nearby and I manage to talk my way into a ride back to town for 30Bs. Much better. Amazing what a little bribe can do. They're not supposed to do this and the driver asks me not to really bring it up with the other cyclists - I'm just thankful to make it back to LaPaz - riding up 3000m wasn't really a possibility today and I'm still not feeling 100%, plus I want to go to Copacobana tomorrow.<br /><br />The ride up is probably scarier than the ride down - the driver also takes the death road as it's quite a bit shorter than the newly paved one. This time you get to appreciate how narrow 3m can be. To give you an idea - you're supposed to pass other cars backwards - as in pass oncoming vehicles on the left so both drivers are as far apart as possible & the driver near the ledge can see exactly where the ledge is relative to their wheels.<br /><br />The return trip takes almost as long as the bike ride down - about 4hours. My new group of riders are mostly from Brazil with 1 Israeli. Quite a lively bunch. One girl did fall but just some cuts on her arm. And so I make it back to LaPaz, even 30min early. Not too bad, about 1/3 the price of the normal guided tour and about 3hours less, too. But mine was rather rushed and lunch was not included.<br /><br />One final note - despite abject poverty and the general concern about crime here, as I'm pulling into the bus terminal, a small boy is shouting at me - once I stop I notice him running down the hill with my jacket in hand. It somehow freed itself from my bag on the cobblestone descent. I am so grateful - it contained my wallet and passport among other things.<br /><br />Day 165 - 123.7km, 18.6av, 58.4mx, 868m, 6:40, to 21224km. 142.5km alt<br /><br />Leaving LaPaz - probably one of the most amazing cities on the trip. Not that Buenos Aires doesn't have it's charms, but pick the right direction and in a few hours you can be on skis, trekking up 6500m peaks, descending to near sea level on various mountain bike trails or whitewater rivers, and then continuing on in a hammock down a slow river cruise on an Amazon tributary through the jungle, or the pampas for an aminal safari. All amazingly close. Plus the city itself has the most amazing location at the foot of Illimani - a 6400m+ peak. And even the center is quite a nice place to walk around with buildings going back to the 16th century and a few obligatory high-rises. I barely explored the city itself - the rich "Zona Sur" will have to wait for another time.<br /><br />There's just not enough time and Peru is calling. So today we set out for Lake Titicaca and Copacobana. Only problem is the taxi that's supposed to take us and our bikes to El Alto, where we'll start riding, isn't coming. Yesterday was a big festival (start of winter / ancient new year) and the taxi companies are really short of sober drivers. So the group decides to bus it instead.<br /><br />Being the purist that I am, plus the fact that I'm not returning to LaPaz means I decide to cycle after all. The hotel finds a basic taxi for me and finally around 10:45 I'm in El Alto heading for Copacobana 135km away.<br /><br />One note - the Hotel Austria is a great place to stay - decent rooms, cheap rates, and generally very quiet. The taxi they call for me is just about the opposite - smooth talker, flexible (high and then higher) rates - he decides to charge me 70Bs for the 15km trip (yesterday's was about 20km for roughly 1/2 the price). I really don't care about 10Bs here or there until he gives me change and tries to hand me a counterfeit 20. It was quite obvious - he has a wad of bills and as he notices me carefully inspecting my 20 he completely innocently offers me a different one.<br /><br />Anyway, a slightly different version of Bolivia vs. yesterday's child. Still, overall my trip here has been fantastic, despite the challenges and illnesses.<br /><br />Anyway, cycling starts out easy - El Alto, once you get out of the crowded bits, isn't too bad to get through - just keep straight down John Paul II road and don't turn for 60km or so and you'll be fine. I doubt myself, but there are at least a few signs now and then that I can verify on my map (Copacobana isn't mentioned for the first 90km or so).<br /><br />The road is flat until it isn't. The first 80km just fly by - only about 70m elevation on the first 50km and about 200m after the next 30km on slightly rolling hills. It runs near Lake Titicaca for quite awhile with one little town full of hotels after another.<br /><br />Then it ceases to be flat. I figure on being at the ferry before 4pm but with only 15km to go, it's time to start clmbing - about 250m or so. Still get there only a few minutes after 4 and it turns out there isn't so much a ferry as about 30 independent small barges with small outboard engines which just take their turns ferrying vehicles across the ~500m channel. I put my bike on one but I need to wait until the next car comes along before I can cross - so 15min later a bus comes and after another 10min we're on the other side. Only 38km and 2 hours of daylight to go.<br /><br />Only this tiny strip of land ends up reminding me of the island of North Cape - only a few km but it's amazing how many big hills they pack onto this bit of land and how the road seems to seek out all of them. It climbs well over 400m to over 4200m again - and I still have my cold. I basically hit the wall. Soon it's dark and I'm tired, hoarse, coughing and cold. Plus the scenery is just amazing except it's dark now and the road has no markings whatsoever. The last 10km will be better tomorrow - a nice 400m descent with daylight. I find a place for my tent and hope to stay undiscovered. Thought I was doing pretty well until a minibus driver honked and stopped for me... Hopefully nobody with less noble intentions notices a small tent well out of sight of headlights (I'm pretty sure he noticed my own headlight I was using to put up the tent). OK, time for bed.<br /><br />Day 166 -<br />Welcome to the birthplace of the sun, conveniently located near the birthplace of the moon.<br /><br />Finally make it to the shores of Lago Titicaca - an amazingly large lake considering we're around 3850 above sea level.<br /><br />The night was a bit cold, a bit below freezing, but still quite comfortable. The fires from last night are gone and a few locals with donkeys wish me a good day. By daylight my campsite is definitely not hidden. At one point a crew of road construction workers passes and they all wave and yell good day. Time to move on.<br /><br />Camp turns out to be near the high-point of the road - near 4200m, and from here it's almost all down to Copacobana - just another 10km into town, past about 50 construction workers - the ones who waved - using modern tools like pick-axes and a surprising number of brooms to repair the road. A lot of road construction seems to consist of sweeping sand around and the ratio of motors to workers is about 1 : 50, but for the most part the road to here has been really, really smooth blacktop.<br /><br />And then the 350m descent is over and I'm back at "sea" level - with Copacobana - hugging the hilly coastline - and it's not even 9 yet. Find one of the rather expensive Internet cafes (up to 12Bs/hr, in La Paz they get down to 1.50/hr), and then find the rest of the group - nicely resting in the local HI-affiliate and rather surprised I'm already here.<br /><br />We have a really nice breakfast (Copacobana has rather random prices - you can get really good set menu meals for around 15Bs and really nice rooms overlooking Titicaca for about 40/person, while burning a DVD - 30Bs - or using the internet is about 5-8 times more expensive than LaPaz) and decide to spend the afternoon heading to Isla del Sol.<br /><br />Today is a lazy day - eat, eat some more, take a boat ride, find a place to stay, and then it's time for dinner.<br /><br />Getting off the boat dozens of pint-sized hustlers will approach you to take you to a hotel. Ours is very persistent and when we decide on another place becomes persistent in asking for a tip (apparently you need to pay to be annoyed by advertizing). Hard not to feel sorry - I really think all the hotels on the island should form a cartel so they don't slit each others throats through competition. They seem quite overbuilt and some places are down to 13Bs (under $2) incl. shower, yet new buildings keep going up. It is an amazing place.<br /><br />Just don't stay in Imperio del Sol - the first recommendation in Lonely Planet - all the people running the place seemed trained in annoyance. We make the mistake of paying first, then wait quite awhile and play UNO for reasons unknown, until the sun is getting quite low and we ask again for our room keys so we can walk to the local summit catch the summit (definitely do this if here - it's an amazing view). At every opportunity the owners ask us our plans and how they might mesh with the possibility of eating here or spending another night.<br /><br />Only it turns out there's no running water, we need to find someone and ask every time we want the communal toilet manually flushed; we don't bother asking how the "hot" shower is supposed to work. Plus we need to be back before 10 because the power will be cut and we can't play UNO in the rooms - possibly the floor or possibly the bed can't withstand the load of 5 people in a room (the bed because we're not supposed to move chairs around).<br /><br />We do manage to do the really scenic summit hike and find a great place for dinner.<br /><br />Day 167 -<br />The next morning is even more interesting as one lie follows another - whether incorrect ferry times (so we'll never be able to complete the hike) or claims that the local restaurants don't open for another hour - all to try extract a few Bolivianos - desparation is a hard lot (even if this hostal is one of the more expensive places) and we finally tell the owner we don't want breakfast and aren't coming back because they're just so annoying. At which point we're informed of our stupidity and the need to turn in our keys now.<br /><br />So that goes well.<br /><br />We get our stuff and hike to the north end of the island. We take the "high route" and encounter our next toll-booth. The 2nd one - where we need to buy our 2nd ticket to marvel at the island. In general, everything is really cheap but things don't seem thought through - there would probably be a lot more money to be made by combining things and lowering the nickel-and-dime annoyance factor. The final insult is when the return boat ride to the mainland is priced at double the cost of getting to the island, although after negotiations it turns out we can get it for only slightly more.<br /><br />Anyway, the high trail is a really, really nice walk. A ribbon of nicely placed cobblestones running the length of the island. Could be somewhere in Greece, except for the huge, snowy peaks across the water. After a couple hours we arrive at the Inca site - the ruins are nice although not all that big, but are a great spot for lunch. I think the sacrifice altar looks a lot more modern than the rest, although this was supposed to be a ritual site.<br /><br />I think the trail and views are worth the trip. The return trip is even more scenic along the coast, although slightly longer and a lot hillier. It takes you through several communities right on the shore with a few nice sandy beaches. The water and air temps are surprisingly warm - I won't go swimming with my cold, but even now near the shortest day of the year it's quite comfortable here. Must be some microclimate with the lake as we're still over 3800m. We settle on skipping stones.<br /><br />We do make the ferry after all and it is at 4pm as advertized and by evening we're back in Copacobana where I head up the local hill for a nice overview and sunset followed by probably the best pasta I've had in S. America at something Postal. Really, really good food.<br /><br />Day 168 -<br />A day of changes - I get my gear ready fairly early and by 9am we're all together for the final group breakfast. Dutch Team and French Team are heading back to La Paz for a fairly comfortable week or two at the end of the Death Road and further down into the tropics while I will continue onwards alone for the time being into Peru.<br /><br />Breakfast is decent and a steal and it's time to say goodbye - first met Jan-Willem and Gudrun way back in week 7 at world's end in southern Chile, while Yoann and Fanny stayed at the Koala Den in Potosi a few weeks ago. Time flies. It's been a lot of fun travelling together.<br /><br />30min later and you're at the Bolivia/Peru border. I recommend taking/converting sufficient currency - there's not much until Puno and I have again underestimated. Not sure on how I managed to misjudge, but Puno is still about 150km away and it's noon and I won't make it and my $5 ain't going all that far.<br /><br />But the day is nice enough - decent riding conditions, fairly level road, winds are moderate if variable and mostly cross. Meet Patrique from Strassbourg who is somewhat surprised to see me (hasn't met a cyclist in several months apparently - hard to believe as I know of several in Peru heading the other way right now). At least we have decent recommendations for each other and he relieves me a bit as he has nothing but good experiences in Peru. Still, the first 3-year-old I see points out that I'm "Gringo" and proceeds to put her thumb to index- and middle-finger and rub in the international gesture of money as in gimme-some. Even though Peru is richer than Bolivia it does seem more crass so far. But I do enjoy lunch on the side of a road construction site talking with a local worker about everything from small-talk to Iraq to the travelling difficulties of 3rd-worlders/illegal immigration.<br /><br />So Puno is too far, but Ilave is about 90km away - where Puno was in my mind and plans of making Cusco in 3 more days. I decide to call it a day as the sun will go down in about 90min and I don't want to rough it until I get a better feel for Peru. Town is one dingy chicken restaurant next to another and nobody will sell me beer. Oh well, it's just one night and there is a place to convert dollars which proves very useful (and has better rates than at the border). But no ATM.<br /><br />Well, for the first time in a long time I'm completely caught up - writing these words in a rather loud hostal (sounds like there are lots of school groups in town) here in Ilave and fleshing out the past 3 weeks of logs as well. Should have a lot to post soon - hopefully in Cusco. Thanks to everyone for writing. See you next week.Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-91496760542832673342008-07-06T08:57:00.000-07:002008-07-07T08:16:22.598-07:00Week 23 - LaPaz finally, the almost to the true High Point of the trip<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK_1nDUQRkb7OUmvKZbZ6CISDrKQTP0H_HjaNIXu17fcbWzV2TkXl4MqMtvvd3kWFhJAs0Kqa6nyTTp2iDX40nAXo19-JJAuwFeay2McKWsEblnpW1aQOH-P7AFWF-Lzj3sCVniTjg0ly0/s1600-h/155-1+-+The+Gang+with+Ramiro.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK_1nDUQRkb7OUmvKZbZ6CISDrKQTP0H_HjaNIXu17fcbWzV2TkXl4MqMtvvd3kWFhJAs0Kqa6nyTTp2iDX40nAXo19-JJAuwFeay2McKWsEblnpW1aQOH-P7AFWF-Lzj3sCVniTjg0ly0/s400/155-1+-+The+Gang+with+Ramiro.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220291117069286722" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try 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pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM1OcOmD7ET02M1z9o2tAsn6WGpwl0Vm9MbwXBHxVgIB_GRhzozYwPYgNS5iQIUaWT28EdpXglDHbcHnM5CLH3jq_RQ0Ew8V1uWDjbT7BfzREEc_tI3rNX4kvIl2fEWgC-UYtGNvaf7dKH/s400/161-7+-+Second+Night.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220288267401280066" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsmnSOtOwLokEtzewVaLG-UgShjzySU5cAJ11zButQYrDzZ0bYV_Z9o7Zl5RgHkvx4XUrmMP8SNyzJSxBBER1IT60zac8ZAy0S8BH0o6TZ0s6sKeUusqm-YoQwgU7x5NyaFfo3UWNTBt3b/s1600-h/161-8+-+Here+-+w+Illumani.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsmnSOtOwLokEtzewVaLG-UgShjzySU5cAJ11zButQYrDzZ0bYV_Z9o7Zl5RgHkvx4XUrmMP8SNyzJSxBBER1IT60zac8ZAy0S8BH0o6TZ0s6sKeUusqm-YoQwgU7x5NyaFfo3UWNTBt3b/s400/161-8+-+Here+-+w+Illumani.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220288272951370802" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdenuehAEIYOzr4Ok2dvScWbumNNx8pjzl_l4tNuWIvvWMgDu7NykbhWCZu75vRT3J7lNp1aCd0__JB7kg1fibWVYdqOdTY7_ayON3BFrmyyD9yJNGlWNDpYJm3S46wtDqa7wfKx74Vtpa/s1600-h/161-9+-+Wow.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdenuehAEIYOzr4Ok2dvScWbumNNx8pjzl_l4tNuWIvvWMgDu7NykbhWCZu75vRT3J7lNp1aCd0__JB7kg1fibWVYdqOdTY7_ayON3BFrmyyD9yJNGlWNDpYJm3S46wtDqa7wfKx74Vtpa/s400/161-9+-+Wow.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220288274907609490" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_iXKX6TG505Na5A8Zpn3z2d4TaD1xmSgwrZGNxhbz-2gCc02HwlUPkfNl47BREyxAKourBU2DOMK8KnN_Csb3530EY_8Nr2Ffn7ITIIKlU3kqkrdQvlyH93YNEjhb_ZdJCBdcsXHKiap1/s1600-h/161-10+-+Wow+II.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_iXKX6TG505Na5A8Zpn3z2d4TaD1xmSgwrZGNxhbz-2gCc02HwlUPkfNl47BREyxAKourBU2DOMK8KnN_Csb3530EY_8Nr2Ffn7ITIIKlU3kqkrdQvlyH93YNEjhb_ZdJCBdcsXHKiap1/s400/161-10+-+Wow+II.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220288282041937154" border="0" /></a><br />Week 23 - LaPaz finally, the almost to the true High Point of the trip<br /><br />Day 155 -<br />A difficult day - it starts out harmless enough - in the same office where we bedded down - plus we have a kitchen complete with stove, so breakfast comes with hot drinks and a place to sit. Not a bad way to begin.<br /><br />And Ramiro appears again and offers us info on the road ahead and wishes us well - quite amazing hospitality. But once outside, it's pretty clear we're back on the altiplano, temps are around freezing and we immediately turn into a head wind plus climb. It's going to stay cold and windy for quite awhile. From town we only climb abaout 40m before the first descent of around 200m and then the actual, final climb begins. The road climbs up to about 4500m (about 14,800ft) and there's even a sign: "Cumbre" (summit) for picture time.<br /><br />Fanny seems to be feeling the altitude a lot so it's rough cycling - plus the cold and the headwind don't help. Immediately after the pass the road descends again - nothing too spectacular, but at least we're in something of a wind-sheltered canyon for a more comfortable lunch. From here on it's basically fairly monotonous, level & wide altiplano plain - temps never get much over 10C and the steady headwind doesn't help. But we form a peleton and it works really well - we do nearly 20km/h all afternoon and reach town quite early.<br /><br />Then the difficult part starts. We seem to have encountered the least friendly town in Bolivia: Carapollo - about 40km N of Oruro. We first hit the main road junction south of center but are told center is further up, so we bike another 2km or so, only the center contains one solitary hostal and it's run-down and full, so it's back down the hill to the other alojamentos. Only noone answers at two of them and the others are quite run-down with one or more of us sleeping on a floor and not much on offer e.g. showers. One of the closed ones has a phone number so we call - they're in Oruro heading this way in about an hour.<br /><br />So it's time for dinner - nothing special but after some confusion we all get served something. That plus some snacks and beer and UNO and about 75min pass. Gudrun calls again - still 20min away, then the guy just hangs up. We ask if we can sleep in the restaurant - no, but the owner knows someone, and after that falls through he knows person 2 and 3 and nobody wants us. We're starting to feel unwelcome.<br /><br />We finally decide to head back and take whatever is available - we settle for an adobe building with no water, real toilet, and a nice soft earth floor. At least everything fits in this one not-so-big room - plus we decide to set up our tents indoors. A very cozy night, but somehow you always get through. At least the price is right at 5Bs ($0.75 - pretty sure this will be the cheapest non-free night of the trip).<br /><br />Day 156 -<br />Writing on a much improved day sitting on a toilet (there's an outlet here & I won't disturb the others so much) next to our private hot tub - yeah, after sleeping on a dirt floor in an adobe room with no toilet, running water or electricity in a town that didn't seem too welcoming, tonight was a definite improvement - even had an amazing dinner served to our room.<br /><br />Today initially continues where yesterday left off - unwanted. We return to last night's diner for breakfast, only at first they won't take our order because bus passengers (herds and herds of them) come first - we're only cyclists. Then they can't get our order straight (2 coffees 3 teas - not that hard) and let us know we should go back to our country. Let's just say we are glad to leave Carapollo behind us and head for greener pastures elsewhere - perhaps LaPaz? Only there's not much green around here - mostly yellow scrub. Still - peaks well over 6000m come into view (incl. Bolivia's highest around 6,400m) and the road is nearly level with almost no wind - even the temperatures aren't that bad - so basically a nearly ideal cycling day.<br /><br />Perhaps the most interesting oddity cycling today was truck after truck loaded with cattle and passengers riding on top of them - let's just say Bolivians make extremely efficient use of vehicles - generally overloading them with everything and then adding lots of passengers.<br /><br />I guess today (Sunday) must be market day - town after town was loading up animals and in the bigger ones they're being unloaded to await a most likely grim fate.<br /><br />Up until early afternoon cycling goes quite well - we've even gotten into the habit of cooking lunch. But by early afternoon winds return and things slow down a notch or two. We do clear just about 100km but the next alojamento (accommodation) is uncertain and then out of the blue, there it is - tiny little dusty town with big hotel/swimming pool sign.<br /><br />We have to check this out and sure enough - there is a hotel connected to a swimming pool - only they're not open - that is to say they have no room for 5 cyclists - that is to say there is a room but it's 300Bs ($40) a night but the kitchen is closed - that is to say they have a room with this amazing hot tub, lots of space for bikes, a table, 4 decent beds, and they offer a great dinner with room service for another 25Bs/person ($3.50).<br /><br />I really don't understand how business works - almost everything we ask for, the first response is "no" - and depending on the mood of the person - or if a friendlier person is available, the response generally changes several times, usually in a more positive direction. Especially when it becomes clear we intend to pay for services.<br /><br />Still not quite sure what this thing is doing here, but we're not complaining - quite a step up from last night. Amazing how far $12/person goes in Bolivia. So hopefully, we'll get a really early start tomorrow and make LaPaz by late afternoon. We'll see...<br /><br />Day 157 - to LaPaz, pizza, ice cream<br />Never do manage to visit that swimming pool - but we do get an early start. LaPaz is about 100km away and the ride is fairly uneventful. We just want to make it all the way into town and not get stuck in El Alto - "The Heights" of La Paz.<br /><br />Everything turns out fairly well - we cover 50km by lunch and by 2:30 are getting into more and more built-up areas. There's no real border to El Alto - just residential and industrial subdivisions in various states of construction as you get close, gradually becoming more and more occupied and completed buildings, and then you're in some pretty heavy, polluted traffic.<br /><br />You never really see La Paz from the main highway - just this giant hole to the side. The main highway runs amazingly close to the edge of the bowl and now and then there's a gravel road leading down. Just take one - the views from the edge are outstanding. And dominating above it all is Illumani - the 6400m, snow-covered peak. Here are a few shots of our first view into the bowl - but La Paz is still behind another ridge.<br /><br />La Paz is about as peaceful as Los Angeles is full of angels. As we get close, the main road becomes more and more difficult - but a couple streets in is the old road - a lot less motorized traffic but a lot of pedestrians and shops. But you need to cycle this way - it leads to the old road into the valley (unless you want to try the newer expressway).<br /><br />El Alto is considered the slum of La Paz although to me it seems a lot more like the industrial heart while La Paz is the upscale neighbor. El Alto now has a larger population - much of which is on the altiplano, but a good chunk of it is precariously hanging on to what appears to be some rather questionable, earthen, and amazingly steep walls of the bowl of La Paz. Roads here are either serpentines, or just ridiculously steep affairs which sometimes terminate into staircases. I wonder how much rain it would take to send a lot of these buildings sliding into the city center.<br /><br />So we bike through El Alto and perhaps 100m past an incredibly chaotic bus-terminal/marketplace, you see LaPaz in all it's glory - it is perhaps the most amazing ride into a major city I've ever had. You go from crowded street to seeing tens of thousands of buildings spread out across a natural bowl with snow-covered peaks all around. And perhaps most amazing of all is the air isn't all that bad - maybe there's just not enough cars per unit of area, but in general you can really see far.<br /><br />So we enjoy our downhill and soon are into the throngs of downtown LaPaz - definitely not a bicycle, car, well just not really a friendly place to get around. You really need to watch in all directions because everything is moving and pushing to get through - but with this much congestion, at least speeds are low so a serious accident is pretty unlikely.<br /><br />We finally settle into the hostel Austria where Dave has already been sleeping for a few nights. A decent place, nothing really special, but good rates, hot showers (when functioning), and pretty clean - but most importantly we can fit our bikes in the courtyard.<br /><br />Dinner is in a different world - Eli's pizza followed by Bozzo's ice cream. This is not Bolivia but more like suburban USA. A bit surreal - seeing so many people struggling on very little while you can buy NY-style pizza and something which comes amazingly close to Italian Gelati on a well-lit street with one bank after a movie theater after a Toyota showroom... this too is the 3rd world.<br /><br />But we enjoy the food (we're all starving and end up ordering so much pizza that no one finishes their dinner) and especially the ice cream - we'll be back.<br /><br />Day 158 -<br />Today is our first day to explore LaPaz. So we decide to take in the latest Indy Jones flick - it actually makes me a bit homesick, but at the same time much of it takes place right around here. In fact, some of the scenes are places we've already visited (at one point he goes over Iguazu falls) and others are places that the local tourist shops have pictures of - including the temple with the stone heads he beats to release the sand behind them. Odd connection to this place.<br /><br />Afterwards we start to look into the next big thing - climbing Huayna Potosi - a 6088m (just shy of 20,000ft) peak just north of LaPaz. But today is game day for the Eurocup and we have 2 dedicated Holland fans in the group so we first end up at the Dutch cafe in town (Sol y Luna - sun and moon) for a big-screen soccer match. While I get to make use of the wifi to establish that my wireless company is about to screw me - I now hate AT&T. They bought out my old carrier and proceeded to force-convert all the accounts, except the only way to convert an account is to go to their store in person, which is rather difficult for me at the moment. The also dropped all existing internet registrations and even prevent you from sending them email until you've registered with them (in person at a store). After a 20-min non-toll-free international call I determine that they really can't do squat for me, but at least the operators can confirm that I'll probably lose all credit on the account while in Bolivia. Idiots.<br /><br />There are plenty of tourist shops for climbing local peaks. We settle for Huayna Potosi - sounds like an appropriate name and has some decent reviews as well. Plus they more or less own one of the refugios so we should have at least 1 sweet night on the mountain.<br /><br />Otherwise not too much of interest today - but we do have more great ice cream.<br /><br />Day 159 - LaPaz - Dave Sick<br />Today is even less eventful - was thinking about the Death Road but it's a bit tight as tomorrow we start the hike. So instead it's mostly hike-related errands and not much else. We have a really basic physical at the climbing place to somewhat ensure we're ready for high-altitude activities and also head to their office to check-out all the gear we'll need - axe, cramp-ons, boots, ... probably a good thing as we're short on a few items and my feet turn out to be too big for their stock of boots - need to borrow them from another operator.<br /><br />Oh, and more ice-cream again. Plus I check out the coca museum - a lot of info packed into a tiny place. They're goal is allegedly one of fighting addiction through information, but they're a bit heavy on anti-western feelings. Not that I have a problem with that - I think our anti-drug policies are pretty much disatrous at home and especially in South America (and Central Asia). Cocaine is the primary root of modern anethestics (basically everything ending in -caine, even if synthetic.) Somewhat interestingly - there's a panel discussing the original anti-cocaine laws passed around 1912 which resulted in Coca-Cola coming clean - but the quotes and political cartoons shown primarily focus on the evils of caffeine.<br /><br />A more open drug policy still leaves the very real problem of very destructive addictions. A tough one. Worth checking out - and they sell plenty of coca-laced products from standard leaves and tea to cookies and liquor.<br /><br />Dave wants to leave for the Death Road today but Montezuma's Revenge keeps him mostly bedridden. Haven't been having much luck with illness since entering Bolivia.<br /><br />Day 160 -<br />Haven't had a hiking day since Iguazu Falls, but today is no ordinary hiking day - of course they never are.<br /><br />Today all 5 of us are breaking new territory - for most of us it's our highest night's sleep at around 4750m (tomorrow should be another 600m higher) - and we all got to try ice climbing for the first time. Nothing particularly technical - just some guided training at the end of a glacier off of Huayna Potosi.<br /><br />If you want to give this a try and happen to be in Bolivia I can only recommend it. The local tourist economy is pretty amazing. Today is our first day on a 3-day excursion - starting off with getting critical supplies in the morning like Coke and chips.<br /><br />And also most likely saying good-bye to my cycling parter of the past 5 months - Dave - it's been great. Enjoy the Death Road and the rest of Bolivia and see ya soon in the States.<br /><br />After good-bye and shopping, we drive to this amazing refugio complete with electricity, running water, and a full kitchen where our meals are prepared for us. Almost everything is included, and most other things can be procured if needed (in our casse, we're unusual "backpackers" - we don't have enough backpacks since we're bicycle based).<br /><br />Once everything is together, it's another scenic drive through El Alto to a gravel road. Biking this would have been fun, but we have enough challenges. We gradually climb past several of LaPaz's reservoirs and finally arrive at the stone refugio. Quite a decent lunch. Then it's off for ice climbing.<br /><br />I think I could get into this. At least it seems easier than rock climbing - everything is a potential foot or handhold. But we're all first-timers so they take us through the basics including some real ice faces around 50-60deg. - basically harder than anything we should encounter on the hike over the next 2 days.<br /><br />We all manage to do OK - get down in one piece, have a spaghetti dinner, and play UNO. Tomorrow it's off to the next camp - a fairly easy day. The challenge will be the next night/morning when we attack the summit starting around 1am...<br /><br />Day 161 -<br />Well, definitely a first for me - writing these words at around 5315m in a mountain refuge beneath the summit of Huayna Potosi - the peak we'll be attacking at around midnight. It's been an amazing day - the tour company has taken good care of us - breakfast was bacon and eggs and yoghurt and fruit and hot chocolate and coca tea and bread... I think it's the first time I've had bacon since leaving the States and it was damn good at 4750m.<br /><br />After a lazy morning we had another warm meal and then set out for the mountain refuge - in some sense this is all a bit of a dream - the peak ahead of us is completely snow and ice covered and yet here we are - all novices to varying degrees and tomorrow we're going to do it - providing the evening clouds don't get more threatening.<br /><br />The hike so far has been quite strenuous but the views are amazing. Pretty much makes up for all the stuff that went wrong - my sunglasses breaking, my camera breaking and then fixing itself again after a few hours (it no longer focused except at full wide angle - one of these days I still need to log all my equipment but my camera is definitely not getting an A), and of course losing badly at UNO - all these important things fade away when you get to look down on the world and the clouds from well over 5000m and watch the sun recede up distant snowy peaks.<br /><br />Well, I'll let the pictures speak for the rest of today - definitely one of the high points of the trip and tomorrow - starting around 1am - will be all on snow and ice up the remaining 750m - about 6hours up and then all the way down to yesterday's refugio and back to LaPaz if all goes well.Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-20075717829604973412008-07-06T08:51:00.000-07:002008-07-07T08:03:06.304-07:00Week 2 - Sucre to Cochabamba and beyond<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX5KH7SqMbUeNJx62-_R06wLr5GEWovZs5cmZB8-DfP_Y8vHGv4tJ2saoVb8gjTCc-J4GGxfRqXWvMpIvllDYIOKLcVgVwQTp1wNpF3RAfzYQm9C-OWETfJqYy_YdtkwiPizaZ3XcRNEjE/s1600-h/148-1+-+We+Have+Gas+Again.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX5KH7SqMbUeNJx62-_R06wLr5GEWovZs5cmZB8-DfP_Y8vHGv4tJ2saoVb8gjTCc-J4GGxfRqXWvMpIvllDYIOKLcVgVwQTp1wNpF3RAfzYQm9C-OWETfJqYy_YdtkwiPizaZ3XcRNEjE/s400/148-1+-+We+Have+Gas+Again.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220287812834246530" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" 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href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvoFcR8GR79wO_nfNFHs-0sidDzRt6Mc8CVUMuaTlLW6TVtsSiw6T80PMqtzczzvdy2StmLrRosE5h_jMp7BuVgkvGPIbU4ivq_5taRJJWz520wzpmPNqbqs6W25vekMthldHc9pdWqY8H/s1600-h/154-3+-+Cross+Marker+and+Broken+Toilets.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvoFcR8GR79wO_nfNFHs-0sidDzRt6Mc8CVUMuaTlLW6TVtsSiw6T80PMqtzczzvdy2StmLrRosE5h_jMp7BuVgkvGPIbU4ivq_5taRJJWz520wzpmPNqbqs6W25vekMthldHc9pdWqY8H/s400/154-3+-+Cross+Marker+and+Broken+Toilets.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220283980633860818" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDNWitbZYauYYXn9s-T5jqxeNJBN0Ij844HyuqwLPb3TpARwywfFbLswRM0OWig15sKagY-_Uwx99qcsQ9bfrPE2tDnjgag7cl2GfxDVE_a0b4R9VODIsH17HxIoe_fvF9mnR8hYeA2YkK/s1600-h/154-4+-+Yoann+and+Fanny.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDNWitbZYauYYXn9s-T5jqxeNJBN0Ij844HyuqwLPb3TpARwywfFbLswRM0OWig15sKagY-_Uwx99qcsQ9bfrPE2tDnjgag7cl2GfxDVE_a0b4R9VODIsH17HxIoe_fvF9mnR8hYeA2YkK/s400/154-4+-+Yoann+and+Fanny.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220283984509536866" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6kWWbhD2fWVAr6ok8ZFvdZnD7dSR-U9nhvJqWW9jri7Gb1oEhGm3nfpXfW-vQL6kLujMR5vJiNmQE-22kXD4lNIGo6mXRrOYoLwmA1h0dRMIv_Tpd9rt_yPHA0DzN-m7O0lQ1cafM2YfM/s1600-h/154-5+-+Yoann+getting+that+Llama+shot.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6kWWbhD2fWVAr6ok8ZFvdZnD7dSR-U9nhvJqWW9jri7Gb1oEhGm3nfpXfW-vQL6kLujMR5vJiNmQE-22kXD4lNIGo6mXRrOYoLwmA1h0dRMIv_Tpd9rt_yPHA0DzN-m7O0lQ1cafM2YfM/s400/154-5+-+Yoann+getting+that+Llama+shot.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220283987222907666" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIejrymOVYGM9g05xJi1UQyJWqCU40A3bYofSobz0oCqv8qdUqWtNFWCjKSQOlQef2TUQF8C6sxWahIcEGy0RLYU_nBbU5C-Hox2N21gz6zpoQdYvp2pLnz-9i89_GVcTdHJwsufDaGkAD/s1600-h/154-6+-+My+Version.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIejrymOVYGM9g05xJi1UQyJWqCU40A3bYofSobz0oCqv8qdUqWtNFWCjKSQOlQef2TUQF8C6sxWahIcEGy0RLYU_nBbU5C-Hox2N21gz6zpoQdYvp2pLnz-9i89_GVcTdHJwsufDaGkAD/s400/154-6+-+My+Version.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220283984567703810" border="0" /></a><br />Week 22 - Sucre to Cochabamba and beyond<br /><br />Day 148 765m 4:25 17.8av, 58.8mx, 79.2km, to 20347km 18.6583S 65.1744W 1719m<br />Not much time for a report today - it's kmorning on day 149 and another beautiful day is starting up. The sun is painting the mountainside across the valley but over here it's still dark. OK, that was rather painful, my wireless keyboard decided not to cooperate this morning, so instead it's now evening on day 149 and things are working better - the mysteries of radio.<br /><br />Anyway, today is party day in Sucre. The roadblocks are (temporarily) down and university is about to commence - which means parade time. All those marching bands that have been practicing every night into the wee hours in the main square are dressed up and on full display.<br /><br />At least I assume they are. The blockades are down and it's time for Dave and I to be leaving. We manage to get a decent start around 10am - and for a pleasant change I'm ready a lot earlier than that.<br /><br />On the way out of town, evidence of the blockade is everywhere in the form of one truck after another parked alongside the road. And the long line of vehicles waiting their turn at the gas stations (which apparently have gas again).<br /><br />At least all blockade evidence indicates we're probably on one of the main streets out of town, because there basically are no signs anywhere telling you which road you're on. But folks are friendly and hopefully knowledgeable and repeatedly confirm that this is the way to Cochabamba.<br /><br />Not sure why directional/destination signs are such an afterthought here, there are quite a few other signs around.<br /><br />To get out of town you first must climb, then climb some more. Around 200m up from the center, you finally get to something like a summit and see it - the local cement factory.<br /><br />But this is no ordinary cement factory - it's home to the largest single rock-face of dinosaur footprints in the world - an ancient lakebed with extremely fast deposition of sediment (they figure 2 layers of sediment per day) has preserved literally dozens of different tracks of many different species along a rock face several hundred meters long - much of it a single layer implying all these tracks were put down some lazy afternoon a few tens of millions of years ago (a total of 8 layers are uncovered to varying degrees and if they so chose, they could continue mining and would probably expose new, very similar layers underneath.<br /><br />This particular face has been exposed for around 25 years and is quite soft, so the footprints have eroded quite a bit, but are still distinct and the site may get a UNESCO recognition along with a preservation effort involving latex.<br /><br />For now, there's a somewhat kitchy observation platform with life-sized fiberglass dino-models and a snack-bar complete with gift shop.<br /><br />And there's a still active, giant, cement factory next door (which I think would make an equally interesting tour, though none was advertized).<br /><br />So instead we continue - past what smells-to-be Sucre's unofficial solid waste disposal site (the hillside along Ruta 5 - they do have signs telling you not to dump your garbage here) and after an amazingly windy, hilly road which seems to follow contour lines out of town, we eventually leave Sucre behind.<br /><br />Immediately following is another amazing downhill. The road is in decent condition and traffic isn't too heavy - just a nice, curve-filled, high-speed descent.<br /><br />But it's over way too fast and the rest of the day is pretty much one steep uphill followed by a slightly longer downhill as we gradually lose altitude. The hills really are quite steep as our somewhat low average speed shows - by 50km we have roughly 1800m in total elevation changes (up and down) or around 3.6% average grade - that's a lot. So it's quite the workout. We still cover about 80km despite the tour and 2 lunches, so it's a pretty good day.<br /><br />Road conditions are good - all paved plus much of the day is along a scenic river valley.<br /><br />Evening finds us camped behind the berm of a curve with beautiful views up and down the valley while reasonably well hidden from the road. We cook and camp and I for some reason have no energy to blog - maybe the 2am previous night - so it'll have to wait for tomorrow...<br /><br />Day 149 - 63.6km, 10.7av, 54.5mx, 1094m, 5:55 to 20411km, 2286m (133.6km alt) 18.2005S, 65.1796W<br /><br />Dust, perhaps all we are is... but today there really was a prodigious quantity of dust in the wind, on my bike, bags, chain, clothes, skin, eyes, lungs... mostly kicked up by one truck after another after another. Bolivia's Ruta 5 is not kind, but at least the road itself isn't too challenging.<br /><br />From camp this morning there's still glorious pavimento. That lasts for about 10km (about 90km from Sucre) of mostly downhill. And that would be the literal low-point for today - around 1600m for the first time in over a month (Salta) and the end of pavement.<br /><br />And then you cross the bridge and start both a very long uphill and a very dusty gravel road. Basically the rest of the day is a fairly gradual climb. After the tortuous roads of far SW Bolivia, everything seems pretty easy now. And it really isn't too bad except for the occasional dose of silicate and fine diesel particulate and other miscellaneous toxins - plus the near total loss of vision for a few seconds each time a truck rumbles by.<br /><br />The scenery keeps getting greener and more tropical and temperatures are very pleasant today - around 30-35 in the sun - on the warm side but after weeks of freezing in the tropics (at altitude) the heat is welcome.<br /><br />Nothing too much else to write on - Aiquile - our home for tonight - turns out to be about 35km further away than the map would have you beliieve, but I suppose that's still better than the mislocated town on the stretch between Uyuni and Potosi. I guess I'll need to think of this thing as an approximation at best. At least the general directions seem to be right even if there are very few road signs to confirm where you're going (after 145km I have yet to see Cochabamba written anywhere).<br /><br />So after climbing to over 2400m again, the road gradually descends into Aiquile and fortunately we made it as Dave was growing to loathe any more travel on dust and I wasn't much in the mood for camping or cooking. So here we are - the town specialty appears to be deep fried chicken served on the Bolivian National Side Dishes of rice and potatoes (you tend to get both with pretty much anything you order). About a dozen places in a row have deep fryers out on the sidewalk serving what appear to be near-identical dishes, although eventually we do find a place that's also serving something resembling hamburger (served over rice and potatoes of course), so we end up with one plate of each and are now fairly sated. Well, time for bed.<br /><br />Day 150 (pretty sure data is from 150 - although was org. 151) - 55.3km, 10.0av, 38.9mx, 1180m, 5:30, to 17.8512S, 65.1678W, 2787m (134.7km alt), 20466km<br /><br />5 months... landing in Mendoza on Jan 11 seems like a different era - I know I can go home and return to a "normal" life, whatever that may be, but right now life on the road is seeming normal to me. Not my longest trip distance-wise, yet, but there's still time for that.<br /><br />Falling a bit behind again - writing this on the morning of day 151 camped near a hilltop cemetary and the dogs keep barking but hopefully not too close - but back to 150...<br /><br />Today may have knocked Utah's "Million Dollar Road" out of its top spot for me. And there are a few others - the road leading through the Swiss National Park, just amazing, amazing mountain roads.<br /><br />The road leading from Aquile towards Cochabamba is not an easy road - it's actually quite annoyingly amazing. The first cobblestone highway I've ever encountered (& tollroad, too!). Fairly punishing road surface (although very rideable contrary to what some blogs may say, again, this is much easier than far SW Bolivia). But the surface can almost be like washboard cast in stone. I wonder how this would compare to bicycling in Roman times.<br /><br />But road quality is only half the challenge today. After Aquile, the road follows through undulating farmland until after 25km or so, you hit it - this amazing river valley and then the fun starts. Today's main descent - a winding, hairpin affair that drops to the valley floor and the fun is over. You can already see the saddle in the ridge line where the road exits the valley. It's way up there.<br /><br />The scenery keeps getting greener and greener and the road gets nice a steep as you climb around 700m off the valley floor.<br /><br />Just amazing views all around.<br /><br />And then you reach the saddle only to discover it's a false summit. The road keeps going up - hugging the side of the hill at first and eventually running from hillside to ridge line to hillside as it keeps going up and up - this spindly thing that follows the contour lines at around 2500m.<br /><br />Dave just has the energy knocked out of him - amazing how the mind can focus on that summit and when the prize is taken away, you almost feel cheated. After another few km he can't go any further, so in the end we have to find camp in this high-hill area, still unsure of where the final summit is, was, or will be. But we're almost up to 2800m again, so it definitely can't be much higher.<br /><br />So we have a look around and walk right through a cemetary - not some grand affair - this one has no real boundary, just mostly iron markers staked in the scrub and overgrown (and it's not abandoned - graves are from this millenium, just a different approach to leaving the dead). We're not actually camped next to any graves, but they are fairly closeby - less than 15m away. Certainly the oddest campsite for me, but everywhere else is farmland or grazing and we'd rather be somewhat hidden. And the views are outstanding - the sun is setting as we set up camp and we can see green mountains in all directions as we set up camp.<br /><br />The road is just an amazing work of engineering - and the cobblestones continue all day long (local's refer to the road as being "piedras" - or rocks). It really slows you down, although for stretches there are bike tracks along a fairly smooth shoulder. But how it is cut out of one hillside, then opens up on both sides to reveal canyons and distant tree-covered mountains on both sides - following this precarious hilltop course - I think I'm going to enjoy some of the roads further north.<br /><br />Time to break camp and keep a move on...<br /><br />Day 151 - hillside<br />Well, my hunch was... wrong. It can be higher. Substantially so. We get a decent start to the day and defying expectations, discover that, in fact, we aren't even close to the top yet.<br /><br />The hills around here are quite deceiving - you get the impression you're pretty much on top of everything, plus Cochabamba is actually slightly below last night's camp, so how hard can it be.<br /><br />For the first few km, the road continues it's hillside /ridgeline hugging ascent - we're now around 2900m, then we hit something like a 30m descent and the first houses of Totora come into view - nothing very special looking - a somewhat "standard", if dismal, brown-wall lined cobblestone street leads into town.<br /><br />We hit the first tienda we can find and load up on cookies, snacks, soda... in other words, essentials. After really draining our food last night , the first shopping opportunity leads to mild binging.<br /><br />Turns out town is still another km or so down the cobblestone and soon we're in the town center.Here you can buy real food - fresh fruits and veggies and even some cheese. Turns out Totora is actually quite an old pueblo - another from Spanish times and it comes complete with a very nice colonial plaza.<br /><br />It also comes complete with paved road - right in the middle of town, the cobblestones disappear under pavement. From here to LaPaz we should be on a nice, smooth, hard surface.<br /><br />The road climbs slightly out of town and after a few km, descends again to the junction with Bolivia's main road - I believe it's the only through road which is completely paved - from Lake Titicaca on the border to Peru, through El Alto (the slum area surrounding LaPaz), Cochabamba, Santa Cruz, and on to the Argentine border.<br /><br />We'll be on this to Titicaca. But first lunch. Like pretty much anywhere in the world, important road junctions tend to attract restaurants, gas stations, hotels, ... lunch it is.<br /><br />And again the road climbs, not quite sure how we missed it, but without much change in altitude we went from high-ridge-line, hilltop windy road overlooking beautiful green valleys to being on the valley floor and seeing even higher mountains all around.<br /><br />So we climb some more - 3000, 3100, 3200, the occasional drop of 100m or so, but otherwise pretty much a steady climb. The scenery changes quite a bit as well - what earlier seemed to be distant clouds possibly hovering over the lowlands to the north are now these amazing, fast-moving and very low clouds, shrouding the mountains and moving down their sides, sometimes blanketing the road in a fast-moving fog. I somehow think of cycling in Scotland.<br /><br />There's an occasional sprinkle, but no real precipitation.<br /><br />The road is actually quite pleasant - it climbs, but it's paved and not steep so we're able to cover some distance. Still, we get worn down and eventually the sun sets without any obvious campsite or place to spend the night. Eventually we ask a local to camp on their property and they're quite friendly - inquiring about our trip and, of course, offering us a spot on the edge of their lot. The owner was just unloading some bricks for building his house a bit further up the hillside.<br /><br />And so we camp right next to the road, but there's a slight hill, some scrub, plus fog so we're pretty much out of sight.<br /><br />Evening shrouds us in fog for some interesting light shows as cars head down the pass.<br /><br />Somehow we started out on top of the mountains with awesome views, well above Cochabamba, spent most of the day climbing, and still ended up on a valley floor with no obvious summit in sight at around 3400m - about 600 higher than this morning. Oh well, still an amazing road.<br /><br />Day 152 - to Cochabamba<br />Morning comes and so do a few curious local kids to watch us break camp and pepper us with questions about our trip. And for the most part I can even answer them, although apparently one asked Dave if we were father and son. I suppose I can forgive the kid, although in Potosi we got the same question in the mine. In my defense, I didn't actually hear any of this - only what Dave told me later, although that may have more to do with my loss of hearing at my advanced age.<br /><br />Anyway, we eventually make it back on the road. And the climb continues. And continues. We make another ridge line and discover the top is still further, but after 15km or so we finally complete the final 300m to the real summit - a near continuous climb from 2 days ago: A cobblestone road on a beautiful valley floor, to the top of local mountains, and then up some more to higher and higher saddles and new higher valleys - from around 1700m to now 3700m (about 12200ft).<br /><br />But we make it and now it's payback time. At first the road enjoys the now really high plateau with a nice, gradual, meandering descent. We get to cruise down a roughly 2% slope at about 30km/h for the first dozen or so km. Then it gets serious and soon we're doing 50-60 and losing altitude quite quickly.<br /><br />After another few km, we're down around 3000m again and it's time for a brief climb followed by a very fast, windy descent - really, really nice. Too bad about all the trucks, but they tend to be so slow you can pass them in a second or two at speeds approaching 70km/h. Then one final short ascent and the ultimate descent prior to Cochabamba - a very windy road hugging a rugged mountainside with cliffs just off the right side of the road as you head down, and quite a few slow trucks again. This one is really fun, although short and that's it - you're down to 2750m or so and the next 40km into town will be a nearly straight road peppered with small dusty pueblos, tiendas, and restaurants. We eat lunch 1 and a few km further down I do lunch 2 as well.<br /><br />A few more km and the road hugs a reservoir - home to this great seafaring nation's naval station - perhaps here in case LaPaz attacks Cochabamba.<br /><br />And finally the last few km and more and more dwellings, shacks, luxury villas, and slums appear - we're approaching Cochabamba - Bolivia's 3rd city (I guess it's Bolivia's Chicago - gritty and formerly 2nd city after LaPaz, but now passed by warmer and richer Santa Cruz to slip into 3rd.)<br /><br />It takes us awhile to actually get into the city - this is no Potosi or Sucre - little colonial architecture, just industry and one seemingly endless market with a cacaphony of noise and utterly chaotic and basically gridlocked traffic. The last few km take a long time until we finally break free of the market and hit downtown.<br /><br />It's definitely not a pretty city, but it does offer a slightly larger Christ on the Hill statue than Rio - Rio's is 33m tall for Christ's age, while this one is just a bit more - since He was a bit over 33 when crucified.<br /><br />Well, and that's pretty much it - except of course for the Vitrionox store downtown - I've been looking for a replacement pen for my swiss-army-USB stick-light-pen thingy - except the pen has been empty for most of this trip and every tourist trap and city in S. America has at least 3 stores selling these things but nobody has replacement cartriges.<br /><br />Until now. So if you ever need one, head to this place on Heroina Avenida in central Cochabamba - they have everything and even the prices aren't bad [of course I also find another store selling climbing goods and replacement pen cartridges in La Paz's tourist section].<br /><br />Otherwise it's a pretty gritty place with quite a few area's not recommended for mindless wandering after dark and more than a couple warnings for daytime as well.<br /><br />But the lovely Hotel Heroina on Heroina has really nice cable TV.<br /><br />Day 153 - to partway up pass -<br />66.7km, 14.8av, 52.4mx, 1032m, 4:30, to 3470m, 20699km, 137.5km alt, 17.6733S, 66.4236W, 3474m<br /><br />But I can't comment on their breakfast since this morning I'm really pressed for time. We're back together with the Dutch (Jan-Willem and Gudrun), and for the first time the French (Yoann and Fanny), and I would like to cycle together with them out of town. Dave decides to continue by bus so now it's the 5 of us heading for LaPaz.<br /><br />After a mad dash to the central market, with about 30seconds to admire the fairly nice main plaza, and a couple minutes to compare the amazing fruit salads on offer here with those from Sucre (really hard to pick a winner - Sucre is a whole Boliviano more expensive at 7 - still under $1 - I'd say Sucre has a slightly nicer fruit variety but they're both an amazing treat I think I could go for every morning). Otherwise just load up on pasta, sauce, fruits, veggies, and junk food and back to the Internet shop/call center to change my flight (%@$% NWA still can't hire enough operators so that failed for the 2nd day in a row after about 8 attempts) and finally to the hotel to get a move on before 9:30.<br /><br />The road out of town is heavily polluted and crowded and also has the first bicycle lane I've seen in Bolivia - annoyingly they put speed bumps at each intersection, but not to urge cars to use caution but rather to slow the bicycles down. But it does offer somewhat polluted but still beautiful views of the peaks NE of the city which were dusted in snow last night.<br /><br />After 15km or so the city starts to fade and things get a little easier. We're still on Bolivia's main highway here, so traffic isn't exactly light, but it's not too bad either.<br /><br />Around 33km, you hit bottom - around 2475m, and then it's time to climb, and climb, and climb. The rest of the day is almost exclusively uphill and dedicated to shredding our tires.<br /><br />We have lunch on this nice little overlook of the road below. And as we leave, Fanny has a flat. Once she's up and running, I make it about 500m and join the club. I tell them to continue and proceed to remove the biggest thorn I've ever had the pleasure of running over. It must be 4cm long. I patch up and inflate and repack and note my tire is flat again. !#@$!. So I remove it and pull out a 2nd thorn. At least this time I'm thinking a bit more and look for a 3rd hole since that 2nd thorn got 2 chances to bite. And I find that too. So 3 patches later I'm finally ready. About 45min later we all meet up higher up and I find out Fanny also had a 2nd thorn and flat. And I also note I now have a slow leak - I was expecting this too, given the size of that thorn but I couldn't locate it in just a couple minutes. Oh well. That will wait for evening.<br /><br />In the meantime, we pass the remains of not one but two broken bottle festivals a few km apart on the climb - at least I assume that's what they were - must be dozens and dozens CASES of beer bottles crushed to nice sharp shredding implements and carefully strewn about the road and shoulder. We actually get off and push the bikes to reduce the likelihood of more unexpected delays.<br /><br />Let's see, we see a very jack-knifed semi + double-trailer in what appears to be an impossible maneuver with the cab facing uphill and the 2nd trailer across the road below it. Lucky because here there are fairly steep, almost cliff-like embankments leading several hundred m down on both sides of the road.<br /><br />And then there's the smoking egg truck. This one is still a mystery - a truck full of egg-cartons passes us with smoke rising - not too unusual but instead of the scent of heavy diesel it smells more like burning wood.<br /><br />We later see the same truck parked at the side of the road with dozens of smoldering egg-cartons and eggs just strewn about the side of the road. And then it passes us again - still smoking egg cartons.<br /><br />But today was more than just bizarre occurances - it was also a pretty good cycling day - we do climb almost 1000m net along some amazing roads with beautiful views of the mountains around Cochabamba as well as the upcoming pass. In parts, the road reminds me of the one a few days ago with a climb to a ridge, more hill-top riding (with the jack-knifed truck) and a climb to another, higher ridge. I guess we still have a ways to go, too.<br /><br />Time runs out on us and we don't make the 2nd ridge and town at around 3700m, so camp is around 3470 behind a pile of dirt in a bend in the pass - but with a pretty nice view of the whole climb and as we set up a goat-herder just walks through our campsite while everyone gets set up and I fix my front wheel - 4 patches for 1 lunch among thorns - must be some kinda record.<br /><br />Well, time to turn in, tomorrow we try for around 4600m again.<br /><br />Day 154 - to Confital & Ramiro - 51.7km, 11.3av, 75.8mx, 1388m, 4:35 to 20751km, 4368m, 138.9km alt<br />A week ago I wasn't expecting to get this high anymore (i.e. altitude, coca is widely available here in Bolivia although chewing it is pretty tame - it mostly just numbs your mouth and throat). So here we are, spending an enjoyable evening playing UNO and approaching 4400m (about 14,500ft) and the road is still climbing for awhile yet. Back to the altiplano. And back to this morning:<br /><br />Today begins at a bend in the road. We have an uneventful night out of sight, which is good as this is apparently the poorest region of Bolivia and camping isn't really recommended - but when stuck partway up a pass and night is approaching, well, we are 5 people so...<br /><br />From there, we continue up our interrupted pass - and of course it's really nowhere near as high as we need to get - after 45 min or so we reach this immediate top with amazing views all the way to Cochabamba and the mountains beyond. But we're still only around 3700m. At least there are plenty of convenience stores and even my cell phone works. Time to try changing my flight for the 15th time or so - NWA must really be cutting back on staff - I've been trying for 3 days to change this flight and every phone call ends up with an apologetic recording telling me that there's noone available due to extremely high call volumes (this includes calls around midnight). Needless to say, there would be no success from the top of the pass, either, but I did succeed in adding minutes to my phone - a rather random task here in Bolivia - pay 31Bs for a 30Bs card and end up with all of 20Bs credit on your phone. A call to complain informs me that I apparently bought the incorrect recharge card - not sure how this is possible - but sometimes they offer promotions where you get more credit than you pay for - I guess that makes up for sometimes getting less. The next identical card does in fact add 30Bs to my phone which should be enough credit for changing my flight. We'll see.<br /><br />We continue onwards and upwards and again the road is reminding me of the cobblestone affair of a few days ago - amazing high ridge road with valleys all around. We pass 4000m and 4100 to before today's only real descent - a very steep, but fun, drop of about 300m (and about 5min) with speeds getting close to 80km/h (50mph). So now we're in a red rock canyon and know we're going to have to pay for 5 minutes of fun, but at least it's scenic.<br /><br />J-W and G stop a few times to pick up the Holland vs. France Euro-championship soccer match on shortwave radio (Holland Wins!), while the rest of us keep plodding along. A hard, slow, and increasingly cold day. By around 5 temps are down to 6C and we're around 4350 and have reached today's town - the small altiplano pueblo of Confital - not much here besides 1 open store/restaurant and a toll-booth, but J-W and G strike paydirt by talking to a friendly face. We come across a local USAID / religious anti-hunger office and Ramiro, one of the employees, takes an interest in us - so we have indoor shelter and running water tonight - and after procuring some refreshing beers and cheese snacks, it's an evening of UNO with our gracious host.<br /><br />Interesting to get local views on the current state of Bolivia - in Sucre we had an amazing museum guide who was well-(out)spoken and quite pro-automony / anti-Evo, matching the stereotype of the richer, southern, middle-class urbanite; while tonight's host is much more soft-spoken and informs us that this is Evo's territory - the poor rural folk who are really having a hard time with food inflation and just trying to get by on local subsistence farming because they can't afford to "import" food from the richer parts of Bolivia. I see challenging times ahead as commodities show no signs of become more plentiful in the foreseeable future.<br /><br />Well, time to wrap up a very enjoyable evening - tomorrow we're off to another early start (I actually hit the road before 8:30 today believe it or not).Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-14360929733675661162008-05-10T18:54:00.000-07:002008-06-22T10:33:05.262-07:00Week 12 - in and around Ushuaia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0jOEdf-ZmNd2cKi4rRlXAP65G39Ogcb3zb0b1406TGiWJI9a6yx1-mUrcuvOHZljBZKc00UQdU3ytJgkRaY9gE2gdxC0zKI9EWYAG2esQbUOHHgtN74FbMmKXWDHE0eqTIbHRqNl1LYNW/s1600-h/078-1+-+The+Hikers.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198939051653815282" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0jOEdf-ZmNd2cKi4rRlXAP65G39Ogcb3zb0b1406TGiWJI9a6yx1-mUrcuvOHZljBZKc00UQdU3ytJgkRaY9gE2gdxC0zKI9EWYAG2esQbUOHHgtN74FbMmKXWDHE0eqTIbHRqNl1LYNW/s400/078-1+-+The+Hikers.JPG" border="0" /></a> The Hikers - Dave Laura Jordan and myself - day 78<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeuIQbscbHlC_SRR5QetIECvM7f2icN2ads9w1oTxvySFX3wBhXicPr9GXqrYL9MXDHwhkkQZdljy6PgRY6_3EnN6y34QEK_1I-C_y1KTwpfYpqi1yRB3e70Ohq7xzF_XVrFaeJrXzKIqs/s1600-h/078-2+-+The+Path.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198939055948782594" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeuIQbscbHlC_SRR5QetIECvM7f2icN2ads9w1oTxvySFX3wBhXicPr9GXqrYL9MXDHwhkkQZdljy6PgRY6_3EnN6y34QEK_1I-C_y1KTwpfYpqi1yRB3e70Ohq7xzF_XVrFaeJrXzKIqs/s400/078-2+-+The+Path.JPG" border="0" /></a> The trail - 78<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj82p3I1xaIrgbXxY4wZTCg6xSV1oByz642TFocu-lUlmngxYIA_B3_-UMHyfAg_UkS3iQdDS2SIiRvtv31JkD5DpTk_OzrOe2NyP-YZ5xZr65FXzXakCHlAsYdx0DdA9QDo8bQORkpSAAB/s1600-h/078-2b+-+Another+Amazing+Shot.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198939060243749906" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj82p3I1xaIrgbXxY4wZTCg6xSV1oByz642TFocu-lUlmngxYIA_B3_-UMHyfAg_UkS3iQdDS2SIiRvtv31JkD5DpTk_OzrOe2NyP-YZ5xZr65FXzXakCHlAsYdx0DdA9QDo8bQORkpSAAB/s400/078-2b+-+Another+Amazing+Shot.JPG" border="0" /></a> More trail - 78<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizFMh2xe-uXLMEwk0aAmS1H6cAp5QzLzVFpQVpETDY3O3gYVs8hfHRB_ellMm-_UuMrlb3c6JPW8P0e8iKWqkM1iqZz3Wyzv9Hacy72We3d2VCV7eUSO4XYokUhG7luv8n7KyaVibKcMyB/s1600-h/078-3+-+Magic+Mushrooms.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198938398818786210" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizFMh2xe-uXLMEwk0aAmS1H6cAp5QzLzVFpQVpETDY3O3gYVs8hfHRB_ellMm-_UuMrlb3c6JPW8P0e8iKWqkM1iqZz3Wyzv9Hacy72We3d2VCV7eUSO4XYokUhG7luv8n7KyaVibKcMyB/s400/078-3+-+Magic+Mushrooms.JPG" border="0" /></a> Magic shroom?<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTAFZ2mHvxWXKUdzx1537s8pKveTl50JCCRnOkfmgZqWhWIpFrpzRPX9T6b0o7dbu0bcMkQf2Jr4Nm3tAJyzaln26rVQaFeSRrYpyAPVS500xWBpXFMF9TMrWwpcKQS3DJoaywvnARFSBd/s1600-h/078-4+-+Testing+the+Bog.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198938403113753522" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTAFZ2mHvxWXKUdzx1537s8pKveTl50JCCRnOkfmgZqWhWIpFrpzRPX9T6b0o7dbu0bcMkQf2Jr4Nm3tAJyzaln26rVQaFeSRrYpyAPVS500xWBpXFMF9TMrWwpcKQS3DJoaywvnARFSBd/s400/078-4+-+Testing+the+Bog.JPG" border="0" /></a> The famous bog - 78<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6xgkLQjbyQCUf_xzB86tR9m9hnEfV55QD8xdybuFHv6LOBI6gVJHRp3RqFwWaE6JsGgOsQ6F8x0qTXVwBHL8VvdRJ5LcI89XcGAgotNY6ppEz8V-bXwoTs__08F_ZI2TO6tPf6mMLWeU_/s1600-h/079-2+-+The+gang.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198938403113753538" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6xgkLQjbyQCUf_xzB86tR9m9hnEfV55QD8xdybuFHv6LOBI6gVJHRp3RqFwWaE6JsGgOsQ6F8x0qTXVwBHL8VvdRJ5LcI89XcGAgotNY6ppEz8V-bXwoTs__08F_ZI2TO6tPf6mMLWeU_/s400/079-2+-+The+gang.jpg" border="0" /></a> Bigger gang - Florian 2nd from left - Day 79<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAKmY_EDqCxQ2fViitvdFttT2HdaDS49h2GgsNnUbcPGqkuJp-DQ9AhprJFvOLmmBoioheyiCHXrqcS79WhugaKxyD5ESMiQ7yox0kj7Uz6qnshUQPENVCHYsB9Fi8nt9gFZOUlWZO0Yht/s1600-h/079-3+-+Nice+Waterfall.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198938407408720850" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAKmY_EDqCxQ2fViitvdFttT2HdaDS49h2GgsNnUbcPGqkuJp-DQ9AhprJFvOLmmBoioheyiCHXrqcS79WhugaKxyD5ESMiQ7yox0kj7Uz6qnshUQPENVCHYsB9Fi8nt9gFZOUlWZO0Yht/s400/079-3+-+Nice+Waterfall.JPG" border="0" /></a> Pretty waterfall - 79<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHFPl0kydevPkZHv9ggLGiRqcISYbwqH8b9iuBTeSIAqcC6asIwarzBl_gbBiMvZVSfVXyqfpNU_zMecmxZschUDiWJlDrtnE-p_Ovs086K4Oa85TBbnG7q4_pxzaCAP4DZHtNNjaNqwPI/s1600-h/079-4+-+Downhill+Mudfest.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198938407408720866" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHFPl0kydevPkZHv9ggLGiRqcISYbwqH8b9iuBTeSIAqcC6asIwarzBl_gbBiMvZVSfVXyqfpNU_zMecmxZschUDiWJlDrtnE-p_Ovs086K4Oa85TBbnG7q4_pxzaCAP4DZHtNNjaNqwPI/s400/079-4+-+Downhill+Mudfest.JPG" border="0" /></a> Mmmm - mudfest - 79<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhruO9f7oFLAGcjXaqZHu4ASwFmAQnR1LNgqfetxIdofJ-am9wdGur7y0HySzzAohw9pPB9GOlbAi4uidNT55bNn522pWw_Y5TLkhpcAxhLfRLFaK5AJMmp9ddwHDwHSJmYexzQ28Hu7IHr/s1600-h/079-5+-+Lotsa+Mud.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198937874832776018" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhruO9f7oFLAGcjXaqZHu4ASwFmAQnR1LNgqfetxIdofJ-am9wdGur7y0HySzzAohw9pPB9GOlbAi4uidNT55bNn522pWw_Y5TLkhpcAxhLfRLFaK5AJMmp9ddwHDwHSJmYexzQ28Hu7IHr/s400/079-5+-+Lotsa+Mud.JPG" border="0" /></a> mmmmuuuuddd - 79<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0a67zn743URh2jrBLBRcbhPncIULuybIwYjVDQeACyljfUoKoBAKUJUtjSUsbX48y9Pqtmh3uljcFTw7Eu-oUCCluOgNZppV9PtnZFn72gSdzeqMpk86PkySJK8WzInoAWoJ9d54J-btg/s1600-h/079-5b+-+Final+Waterfall.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198937879127743330" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0a67zn743URh2jrBLBRcbhPncIULuybIwYjVDQeACyljfUoKoBAKUJUtjSUsbX48y9Pqtmh3uljcFTw7Eu-oUCCluOgNZppV9PtnZFn72gSdzeqMpk86PkySJK8WzInoAWoJ9d54J-btg/s400/079-5b+-+Final+Waterfall.JPG" border="0" /></a> Pretty waterfall - 79<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrsXkq4Jwr23dibq9-7qI8H2LiQUcYjg4C0KvTTKWsT-1nRhadsG0eahDWTLaM20JSrxz-f1rU5LApwqGY2Qb1pbn05yIq0vjdFeFotgT7iFvwgZx2obNX4oFZyYoDDJXsLBpPo3XS_cix/s1600-h/079-6+-+Evening+Fire.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198937879127743346" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrsXkq4Jwr23dibq9-7qI8H2LiQUcYjg4C0KvTTKWsT-1nRhadsG0eahDWTLaM20JSrxz-f1rU5LApwqGY2Qb1pbn05yIq0vjdFeFotgT7iFvwgZx2obNX4oFZyYoDDJXsLBpPo3XS_cix/s400/079-6+-+Evening+Fire.JPG" border="0" /></a> Around the fire - 79<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj31NLqRx2nqZUkwiNfBtUjsgZAiYkkIxByYrPwJn5MCzaK7e87oC2KwJNTjl9VGqnEwBmyFBhYfG9KrMqeuo8sM0KTdz8aHXv0fO-kkSMP86_HU5AcKibw_ob1PNYtRGR91r7bwWtGeg9p/s1600-h/080-1+-+Morning+Reflection.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198937883422710658" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj31NLqRx2nqZUkwiNfBtUjsgZAiYkkIxByYrPwJn5MCzaK7e87oC2KwJNTjl9VGqnEwBmyFBhYfG9KrMqeuo8sM0KTdz8aHXv0fO-kkSMP86_HU5AcKibw_ob1PNYtRGR91r7bwWtGeg9p/s400/080-1+-+Morning+Reflection.JPG" border="0" /></a> Morning reflection 1 - Day 80<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvNZCjr5Qez-FOr_hfytEiyGY-N7cp1N6F6nP_ohpkM9N3bve9i5zRz__yxepH0fLBqDwVkCwCzDoMBsZF8Bv660BUuIgNt3wd_OnhXdZwDws8GreLg_CPTEt_9mKyzEUKw6gj_p092XGD/s1600-h/080-2+-+Morning+Reflection+2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198937883422710674" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvNZCjr5Qez-FOr_hfytEiyGY-N7cp1N6F6nP_ohpkM9N3bve9i5zRz__yxepH0fLBqDwVkCwCzDoMBsZF8Bv660BUuIgNt3wd_OnhXdZwDws8GreLg_CPTEt_9mKyzEUKw6gj_p092XGD/s400/080-2+-+Morning+Reflection+2.jpg" border="0" /></a> 2<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0_QJswv1zLDjhbn3ywiFtgM6GaQSC5Iit0Q3ofvDmzoju-Mk39Lh6aBjZUEDG9gw_4T3UGG7tUry8qQ3xWB5IeinB5fAN-YP3q3BjFSlYnJz8wW1GuZs-ksmFMm_SxhqcnsdFBi8E0PU/s1600-h/080-2+-+Morning+Reflection+2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198937247767550722" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0_QJswv1zLDjhbn3ywiFtgM6GaQSC5Iit0Q3ofvDmzoju-Mk39Lh6aBjZUEDG9gw_4T3UGG7tUry8qQ3xWB5IeinB5fAN-YP3q3BjFSlYnJz8wW1GuZs-ksmFMm_SxhqcnsdFBi8E0PU/s400/080-2+-+Morning+Reflection+2.JPG" border="0" /></a> 3<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAlTSSBXmmStzKngKWMbOT45qwH__t1G8znPxIe1W-UqDQy3CvyLhhesW38lU_rbSEukVS_1ZUJSknlk5KPmdx8IiDJ0-HdPJU5Qs2Mlj6Sgn2tnYAAn2O21jnXQZnKYRqwmP1XW473rN1/s1600-h/080-2b+-+Morning+Reflection+3.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198937252062518034" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAlTSSBXmmStzKngKWMbOT45qwH__t1G8znPxIe1W-UqDQy3CvyLhhesW38lU_rbSEukVS_1ZUJSknlk5KPmdx8IiDJ0-HdPJU5Qs2Mlj6Sgn2tnYAAn2O21jnXQZnKYRqwmP1XW473rN1/s400/080-2b+-+Morning+Reflection+3.jpg" border="0" /></a> 4 - Alejandro from B. Aires admiring his lake<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Sd933cn_f26XyISjX_0zkwddDrd458ycIC196dIe5LrvCflnV7P-F6cnkPrBVvD2I3NlceCmvhn14EwTyeYu5EwhbFycY75Rug-Pbm4ZopYoLBoYcAI2u0jI9waAX_TUCtl26SGEKsPT/s1600-h/080-3+-+Tricky+Hike.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198937256357485346" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Sd933cn_f26XyISjX_0zkwddDrd458ycIC196dIe5LrvCflnV7P-F6cnkPrBVvD2I3NlceCmvhn14EwTyeYu5EwhbFycY75Rug-Pbm4ZopYoLBoYcAI2u0jI9waAX_TUCtl26SGEKsPT/s400/080-3+-+Tricky+Hike.JPG" border="0" /></a> Dave hiking to summit - 80<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDSX3OKOKUZV94wKfkxX-EH_AfkZX4e9YGVfTDPsmtNnxxtuQ9U3D_zhl2gBwW-1r8AjWRWZNXt2qnMUOaHTcNAli6_w51JXnaUgNUJw5shjuYrQH_pN0tPGD8VbsiheV5JazLZyDrbLAO/s1600-h/080-4+-+Laura+enjoying+the+view.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198937256357485362" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDSX3OKOKUZV94wKfkxX-EH_AfkZX4e9YGVfTDPsmtNnxxtuQ9U3D_zhl2gBwW-1r8AjWRWZNXt2qnMUOaHTcNAli6_w51JXnaUgNUJw5shjuYrQH_pN0tPGD8VbsiheV5JazLZyDrbLAO/s400/080-4+-+Laura+enjoying+the+view.JPG" border="0" /></a> Laura admiring the view - 80<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Oos8iTQ1PIgmb7UQZydqLlrkQFMA0h08CYIyXJbe8elZwVRVlHIXejTz4m_zss9AMte-DumpLP14gqEVKH1sSxEn1ao78HZh452xgvG12b_0kxXbyB9YsNZyhGtqy3SyHmhaSH7PTd_d/s1600-h/080-5+-+Condor.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198937260652452674" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Oos8iTQ1PIgmb7UQZydqLlrkQFMA0h08CYIyXJbe8elZwVRVlHIXejTz4m_zss9AMte-DumpLP14gqEVKH1sSxEn1ao78HZh452xgvG12b_0kxXbyB9YsNZyhGtqy3SyHmhaSH7PTd_d/s400/080-5+-+Condor.JPG" border="0" /></a> Condor (& camera defect)<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL7YVJ28VBGLhs0fNbBANPmk-BS9u149h_CgG05zELkUtJ7alMtY878rLRzCBICqFhRPD-vA4C9PxwlnQaVaLiGpfJxEH-wO5eEU1kXtk3t8mMIIixLYwzuI9nmVbaiUFoNnD5SGxyb1-m/s1600-h/080-6+-+Amazing+Lakes.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198934653607303858" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL7YVJ28VBGLhs0fNbBANPmk-BS9u149h_CgG05zELkUtJ7alMtY878rLRzCBICqFhRPD-vA4C9PxwlnQaVaLiGpfJxEH-wO5eEU1kXtk3t8mMIIixLYwzuI9nmVbaiUFoNnD5SGxyb1-m/s400/080-6+-+Amazing+Lakes.JPG" border="0" /></a> Amazing chain of lakes - from near summit - 80<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDuF0ateIlXz99TrdVVlY5wQP_u5hUgTiqFQaSCrQFrA8v_v_HU8tpGbEmmYkUIOEKs2GrFrwHXe6MrVf848G796YaGYEcuU9UNuNiq-mnuN31AwkiGGB0KKmg6PZkaCrUT_S-kJp7dLPV/s1600-h/080-7+-+Jordan+near+the+summit.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198934653607303874" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDuF0ateIlXz99TrdVVlY5wQP_u5hUgTiqFQaSCrQFrA8v_v_HU8tpGbEmmYkUIOEKs2GrFrwHXe6MrVf848G796YaGYEcuU9UNuNiq-mnuN31AwkiGGB0KKmg6PZkaCrUT_S-kJp7dLPV/s400/080-7+-+Jordan+near+the+summit.JPG" border="0" /></a> Jordan near summit - 80<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy7AqRfbCKmvf4qaLpxgof4NFAoaCDAFz9Z7M8Tr8pAYeM4ZQU5TqkJHP2ENes2xaLKbzwYMmZ4ln0fT6lVaiCh-Ebg4iALG1kqqfB-0GfmmgIFTBWES7vqC3HJZgSkr_wZu_wKXt2EVKe/s1600-h/082-1+-+The+End+of+the+Road.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198934657902271186" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy7AqRfbCKmvf4qaLpxgof4NFAoaCDAFz9Z7M8Tr8pAYeM4ZQU5TqkJHP2ENes2xaLKbzwYMmZ4ln0fT6lVaiCh-Ebg4iALG1kqqfB-0GfmmgIFTBWES7vqC3HJZgSkr_wZu_wKXt2EVKe/s400/082-1+-+The+End+of+the+Road.JPG" border="0" /></a> End of the road - 82<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfWHZHfreF8zzsRaGNiKu7r72fqlYiykn3HLhaQ_NSo30JIbxnBovEzXpk7bJsg5fsITzk1JgvXb61PgPnwI93DjIPSfss4ZQ25349e-NL4ASOySoELqm8SEOLhvqxDbe1jVslwhqMKeuj/s1600-h/082-+2+-+Last+we+saw+of+Dave.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198934657902271202" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfWHZHfreF8zzsRaGNiKu7r72fqlYiykn3HLhaQ_NSo30JIbxnBovEzXpk7bJsg5fsITzk1JgvXb61PgPnwI93DjIPSfss4ZQ25349e-NL4ASOySoELqm8SEOLhvqxDbe1jVslwhqMKeuj/s400/082-+2+-+Last+we+saw+of+Dave.JPG" border="0" /></a> Last we saw of dave - 82<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVZ3IYjqltYi-uZ31QVu9Gioh3RsSJBqB0txO00JKaLIyoBD2QibRbXrqszpl83AS2Wxb5lxoMURvi2TB0fAbY1llfeEtQhm6YTkpmrj6-CdHw2XkMj_02XKEwP81F7Rbt6sZAhys3p2pO/s1600-h/082-+3+-+Riding+to+Antarctica.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198934662197238514" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVZ3IYjqltYi-uZ31QVu9Gioh3RsSJBqB0txO00JKaLIyoBD2QibRbXrqszpl83AS2Wxb5lxoMURvi2TB0fAbY1llfeEtQhm6YTkpmrj6-CdHw2XkMj_02XKEwP81F7Rbt6sZAhys3p2pO/s400/082-+3+-+Riding+to+Antarctica.JPG" border="0" /></a> Biking to Antarctica - 82<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-UEwCgEGwq-NjNZ08ZquMBG7nsEe53Pl5UJuajokDJoGzcfjhDdrvtsXenvgiylMcbQj0EQ6CEU7jKMbA4Mn1vaUQ65gvq0z55rJrV8cUblGKT-X_pGtfc56ioGHnx_H04mJEJbVHN1-B/s1600-h/082-+5+-+Cerro+Guanaco.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198934322894821986" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-UEwCgEGwq-NjNZ08ZquMBG7nsEe53Pl5UJuajokDJoGzcfjhDdrvtsXenvgiylMcbQj0EQ6CEU7jKMbA4Mn1vaUQ65gvq0z55rJrV8cUblGKT-X_pGtfc56ioGHnx_H04mJEJbVHN1-B/s400/082-+5+-+Cerro+Guanaco.JPG" border="0" /></a> Cerro Guanacoo - slightly out of order here<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY69GABCkiV0m4kyzxkv_Bh4tKEJNC0fyeG-vBoUA4H6BW7AzOpnIDtEMwb15XhJ7If-EzvkDqePio7JA2SYnr4hGlk7ovip_8_ENKo5y9C0WjRDopyGf62pa-OJZPge1OGtnSygY8cHdf/s1600-h/082-+6+-+III.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198934322894822002" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY69GABCkiV0m4kyzxkv_Bh4tKEJNC0fyeG-vBoUA4H6BW7AzOpnIDtEMwb15XhJ7If-EzvkDqePio7JA2SYnr4hGlk7ovip_8_ENKo5y9C0WjRDopyGf62pa-OJZPge1OGtnSygY8cHdf/s400/082-+6+-+III.JPG" border="0" /></a> 3km to go (this pic should be further up - oh well) - 82<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1a2Pndj5OWeRggxRuhernvNacharm-ifH19zIikWMlb_zEOXlPGdfgmJAMLsSfVEjFswqFIlp6jemf8Q-6F4uqHYAfIfsrGBw3ek3G6PWyYjKCbVdQhY1-7uhAUX7BsB4gBytnZ8wIcFZ/s1600-h/082-+6+-+II.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198934327189789314" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1a2Pndj5OWeRggxRuhernvNacharm-ifH19zIikWMlb_zEOXlPGdfgmJAMLsSfVEjFswqFIlp6jemf8Q-6F4uqHYAfIfsrGBw3ek3G6PWyYjKCbVdQhY1-7uhAUX7BsB4gBytnZ8wIcFZ/s400/082-+6+-+II.JPG" border="0" /></a> 2<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirF1fq1qEfU10U5_7Nxw0SSHRu9MFrExEXSiyyXOctS4TI116uHlTDPt6Ruqx_JLx9hANNiFZpdgl0KTwWzL2f9naCuGvyRxySoOCKofzHshrHpKOpe_e9CPBbhgklIhdoduiSy8ZaLi57/s1600-h/082-+8+-+I.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198934331484756626" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirF1fq1qEfU10U5_7Nxw0SSHRu9MFrExEXSiyyXOctS4TI116uHlTDPt6Ruqx_JLx9hANNiFZpdgl0KTwWzL2f9naCuGvyRxySoOCKofzHshrHpKOpe_e9CPBbhgklIhdoduiSy8ZaLi57/s400/082-+8+-+I.JPG" border="0" /></a> 1<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFuvaMKfZb6hyPzqR3_I7c2DOZAg4rrgUm3gUw5qUC9ZuVLb8ZoUYggy4yAYsC1UN9DTh1ro-6bbv9UJFmkvXM3BOiZssB1_ASnXa2CSC-NXTuDoZrm_Xop2t_yu0lpR4slsdlaYKoSpH2/s1600-h/082+-+9+-+Ushuaia+from+the+Top.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198934335779723938" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFuvaMKfZb6hyPzqR3_I7c2DOZAg4rrgUm3gUw5qUC9ZuVLb8ZoUYggy4yAYsC1UN9DTh1ro-6bbv9UJFmkvXM3BOiZssB1_ASnXa2CSC-NXTuDoZrm_Xop2t_yu0lpR4slsdlaYKoSpH2/s400/082+-+9+-+Ushuaia+from+the+Top.JPG" border="0" /></a> Ushuaia from Cerro Guanaco<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSfIAaeKovFVHx2xU_de6SF8y4H8D_e_oFT6YgOrfytx21DlIwAzjJgoH_sAja2FdscO_tXYwQ8Ib6eOMnMRML2_p9r8teqOpGo0eKAVj4JGjBAPUCnupnLJWPU2OKaejvUkq5XZlvYX3L/s1600-h/082+-+10+-+Another+View+from+the+Top.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198933485376199186" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSfIAaeKovFVHx2xU_de6SF8y4H8D_e_oFT6YgOrfytx21DlIwAzjJgoH_sAja2FdscO_tXYwQ8Ib6eOMnMRML2_p9r8teqOpGo0eKAVj4JGjBAPUCnupnLJWPU2OKaejvUkq5XZlvYX3L/s400/082+-+10+-+Another+View+from+the+Top.JPG" border="0" /></a> Guanaco again - looking at Chile<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-uzRXke9bWv7vzTr0bRb53YPKZ5rjlE8KuIGI-2Ir0LfYn6IcqqWJGbUHWHTsl7Vsy_nV5Nk21Lm31yKSGn3rB84j18tK7cP6hgdeQSzYekSFscLcfppLNFs9hNyl0YAtQ_tyUpwbS2gf/s1600-h/082+-+11+-+Final+Farewell.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198933489671166498" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-uzRXke9bWv7vzTr0bRb53YPKZ5rjlE8KuIGI-2Ir0LfYn6IcqqWJGbUHWHTsl7Vsy_nV5Nk21Lm31yKSGn3rB84j18tK7cP6hgdeQSzYekSFscLcfppLNFs9hNyl0YAtQ_tyUpwbS2gf/s400/082+-+11+-+Final+Farewell.JPG" border="0" /></a> Final farewell for the Gang - 82<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVkthCsyRndKQ10WOS-a0QbL_gyWH2UOUz7H5aohSS42a9mclzDk7EFTHQ1068kCF3YL11zsGZ6NULNlJMU4OaGHAWZMlN-kAc44njHGl1DC2F0ZVlyIv2eOEh8SnQDXvsSaa5d0vexegl/s1600-h/084+-+1+-+Another+view+of+Ushuaia.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198933489671166514" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVkthCsyRndKQ10WOS-a0QbL_gyWH2UOUz7H5aohSS42a9mclzDk7EFTHQ1068kCF3YL11zsGZ6NULNlJMU4OaGHAWZMlN-kAc44njHGl1DC2F0ZVlyIv2eOEh8SnQDXvsSaa5d0vexegl/s400/084+-+1+-+Another+view+of+Ushuaia.JPG" border="0" /></a> Ushuaia - 83<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqTDk8uMkvzJByLn-waZDvnN7IFbRVLCbX8k0PCfdGybkKzLUEmjEocBfYJutM6SI_3fZLTnUPM54zLi4LSYcqGNp7ZF7h0-Pa3XUCL7bMvA4rY8_q_0hYRNBpAfXn5S1I2lrLDaWzJ7al/s1600-h/084+-+2+-+Another+view+of+Ushuaia.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198933493966133826" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqTDk8uMkvzJByLn-waZDvnN7IFbRVLCbX8k0PCfdGybkKzLUEmjEocBfYJutM6SI_3fZLTnUPM54zLi4LSYcqGNp7ZF7h0-Pa3XUCL7bMvA4rY8_q_0hYRNBpAfXn5S1I2lrLDaWzJ7al/s400/084+-+2+-+Another+view+of+Ushuaia.JPG" border="0" /></a> More Ushuaia - 83<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gdoMCV5oJU5plEW_XLB2uXgnlRJU6u17opIvfDc_LrlywmBB82JWRlCNsKhXz-cPsO8ibVVzchbK7ptmZ0Emb-YOajefHowb-jqR2Ix_ztFVAZMepGUALSv4YPUSGOlAX6xLEdzwUFiM/s1600-h/084+-+4+-+Dinner+with+Tito.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198933493966133842" style="" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gdoMCV5oJU5plEW_XLB2uXgnlRJU6u17opIvfDc_LrlywmBB82JWRlCNsKhXz-cPsO8ibVVzchbK7ptmZ0Emb-YOajefHowb-jqR2Ix_ztFVAZMepGUALSv4YPUSGOlAX6xLEdzwUFiM/s400/084+-+4+-+Dinner+with+Tito.JPG" border="0" /></a> Evening party - 83<br /><div>WEEK 12 - In and around Ushuaia</div><div>Day 78**************</div><div></div><div>Over breakfast, we finally talk about plans with Joe and things go fairly well. A bit of a let down, but we seem to agree that things haven't been going too well. We head over to the Antarctic hostel and meet up with Laura and Jordan. Via some coaxing and help of Laura and the staff, Jordan gets his flight changed, so he still has a few more days to spend here. We celebrate by immediately planning a 3 day hike. Joe is out planning his return to Mendoza and there's a chance the only goodbye will be by note, but as we prepare for the hike, he stops by and it's a final, if awkward farewell. Perhaps our paths will still cross.</div><div></div><div>We take a taxi out of town to a somewhat confusing trail head and proceed to start hiking our loop along the valley just north of Ushuaia.</div><div></div><div>Almost immediately you're out of developed country, but the frequent piles of horseshit remind you this isn't too remote. We hike quite merrily along until we come to our first major bog. We decide that this is the place for Jordan to face his demons.</div><div></div><div>You see, he's been out near here before - on a solo 7 day hike on the most difficult trek near Ushuaia. But he was defeated by the bog - not your kind, spongy, just want to run and play kind of bog, but the kind where you sometimes sink in waist deep and question your sanity about the wisdom of a 7 day solo hike. So in the end, he had to abandon plans and head back to Ushuaia.</div><div></div><div>But today, we have found the spongy, bouncy, hardly-any-thorns-or-deep-depressions kind of bog. The kind that invites us to come out and play. And so we do - frisbee on the bog. And so, Pat's Purple Frisbee from Moab, Utah is now helping to best demons at the end of the world.</div><div></div><div>And soon we're joined by Florian, a German hiker also entering Med school. Somehow, being surrounded by people related to the medical profession makes me feel reasonably safe in the event of an incident.We hike on bit and eventually camp next to a bog, cook an awesome meal complete with chicken breast, fresh veggies, wine, dessert, ... </div><div></div><div>A good day.</div><div></div><div>Day 79**************</div><div></div><div>A great morning - we have a lazy start - coffee, lots of cereal, a bit of fresh food... this is camping large. And the hike continues. We get to a fork in the trail and decide the hike is going way too fast. Florian want to get back today, though, so we part ways and head off a side brance to Lago Caminante. The short segment is only about an hour, but the last drop into camp is probably the most challenging hiking to date for me. Basically, it's a mud slide and it's started to drizzle a bit. But we muck our way down in one piece and are soon rewarded with a foggy, cloudy, rainy afternoon. Not much gonna happen any more today. We get firewood, set up camp, and basically get wet, just chewing the cud with Jordan, Laura, and our new expanded family - Alejandro a headhunter for Walmart from Buenos Aires, Marieke - a Neurobiologist from Germany, and Carl (apologies for not remembering more) from the UK. Just a long, rainy day around the campfire.</div><div></div><div>Day 80***************</div><div></div><div>It pretty much drizzles all night long, but by morning clouds are clearing, and soon we're treated to an amazing lakeside view. This weather is just too nice to rush back into town, so we agree to a final detour - climbing the nearest peak to get a better view of our surroundings.The hike up is amazing - the sky keeps getting bluer and bluer and soon we're seeing whole new valleys including this amazing set of 3 lakes complete with picture-postcard-waterfall.</div><div></div><div>And just as we hit the ridge, Laura screams something not quite appropriate for a family oriented blog and we rush to get our cameras out and shoot a condor just rising on the thermals a few fet away.</div><div></div><div>We keep heading up along the ridge to something approximating a summit, except there's more ridge ahead and higher summits as well. But it's about time to head back into town so we quickly descend the way we came, pack-up camp, and head to Ushuaia. There's still a pass ahead and right at the top of it, there's an old horse that looks like death warmed up, relieving himself at the headwaters of a small stream, and we're talking number 2. Way up here, miles from anything and anyone. I guess no water source is completely safe, although we had been drinking from several streams until this point.The pass passes quickly and we're soon heading down again, into the final valley heading towards Ushuaia. The trail is fairly easy to follow until we get to the valley floor and daylight starts to fade. Soon we're jumping from one side of the stream to the other every few hundred meters. And points inbetween are pretty much bog and mud and fallen branches.</div><div></div><div>This doesn't go to well and eventually Laura decided to scout up one side of the valley and eventually seems to encounter the trail again - greatly speeding things up, at least until darkness falls and we really lose it. Eventually, there's a fence in front of us with no apparent correct path. We follow the fence in the general direction of town, but this too is quite challenging as it's now night and it's just amazing how much water the ground all around here holds. Everything is sllick and sticks to your shoes.The fence doesn't seem to be leading us home so eventually we decide to jump it, and the next one, and the 2 after that as well, eventually finding a few small ponds and some construction vehicles. The increassing number of lights reassures us that town is near.At one point we catch a glimpse of the airport and see the 9:30ish flight taking off. Afterwards we come to the conclusion that there's a pretty good chance it's taking Joe on the first leg of his trip to Mendoza - later found out he was on an earlier flight - . Meanwhile, we eventually to make it to a road and then a real road complete with km-markers. After a few minutes, a car passes without slowing down, and a few minutes later, a vacant taxi passes - just a bit too convenient, but we're not complaining. Soon the 4 of us are heading into town, the taxi driver enjoying his conversation with Laura in the front seat a bit too much and misses our hostel, but we all get a breather, relax, and have our final parilla meal at the local diner.</div><div></div><div>A really, really good day.</div><div></div><div>Day 81 - </div><div></div><div>Well, Ushuaia has proven to be a seductive end of the road. We're just enjoying our time here a bit too much, but that's ok. No real rush yet. Today is another one of errands - frequent rains means we probably made a good choice in returning to Ushuaia a day early. We spend much of today looking for bike boxes and trying to figure out how to get our bikes out of here.I'm generally against the idea of flying when there are alternatives - avoiding the scenery on the ground and consuming huge quantities of fuel. But nobody's making this easy for us - nobody wants to take bikes, shipping them to BA may take up to 2 weeks and a couple hundred pesos, and bus fares aren't all that competitive vs. flying. Really annoying, but in the end it looks like we'll fly after all. They will take bikes, it'll just cost us.Jordan has changed his flight a final time - now he's definitely, for certain, leaving tomorrow. But we have one final big meal - home cooked, tons of food, and just a great time with a few ex-pats in Ushuaia.</div><div></div><div>Day 82*************</div><div></div><div>Yesterday's frequent minor rains have ended and at some point, at least after cycling this far, we need to really go the end of the road. It's another 25km down a gravel road and into Terra del Fuego national park. So today will be the day. We originally intend to get some run-down bikes at the hostel into working conidition and ride down with Laura, but in the end, despite cannibalizing a derailleur and several cables, we're one funtioning part short of a reasonably bike. So she takes the bus while we clean up and bike to the end of the road. And then, after about 90min, there it is - the end of the road. The end of part one. About 4525km and about 11 1/2 weeks from Mendoza, we've finished part one. After way too many pictures, we start heading back.</div><div></div><div>I decide to go on one final hike - up Cerro Guanaco - Jordan recommended it and you get some amazing views of town. It's rated for 4hours to the top, but Jordan says doing it in 2 1/2 is no problem,. Problem is I only have 2 1/2 for the whole thing - up and down, otherwise I'll miss Jordan's departure.</div><div></div><div>So it's a bit of a rush - fastest hike yet - pretty much a jog up and down again, but after 1:30 I'm at the top, taking a few last shots and enjoying the view of Ushuaia and the many peaks all around, for at least 5 minutes. Then it's time to jog down again, hop on the bike, and ride like the wind for the 21km into town. Make it back to the hostel with 10minutes to spare. So the 4 of us have one final trip to the airport, wish Jordan all the best on his important, upcoming position, and meet 2 crazy travellers with whom I trade the last of my Chilean peanuts for some beer - it's a bit compllicated.</div><div></div><div>And so our small, fun, travelling group starts to break up. One final home cooked meal with Laura who's leaving tomorrow. In the meantime we meet the next group of cyclists - actually 2 groups 2 who started in Ecuador between 6 and 8 months ago and are also at the end of their trip.Another great dinner and another good day.</div><div></div><div>Day 83****************</div><div></div><div>Well, it's back to me and Dave, and it's about time to move on. We finally get some bike boxes and start real planning for the next leg. We decide to head to BA, to possibly bike alongt the coast to Brazil to Porto Allegre and then on to Igazu Falls and possibly continue from there through Paraguay to norther Argentina and onwards more or less as originally planned.Well, at least it's a thought. Still need to do a sanity check on the distances, but it would be good to catch up with Bernardo from way back in the 7-lakes district.We're pretty much set on flying now, and between us and the 4 other cyclists, we've quickly filled up the Antarctic hostel with all the large, bike-like boxes we could obtain. And soon we're all busy getting ready to leave town.Not too exciting a day, but you need some down time as well.</div><div></div><div>Day 84********************</div><div></div><div>Well, all good things must end at some point. Today we finally buy our plane tickets, put our bikes into boxes, do some finally shopping erranrds, consume as much of our remaining food as possible (except I still squeeze in a big BBQ dinner at the original Patagonia Pays hostel where we were staying - Tito's a great chef!), and really that's about it for today. No big trips, mostly just running around, checking if I can get my camera fixed, buying blank DVDs to backup all our data to this point, and getting my passport stamped at the end of the world - normal stuff when breaking a while in one place. </div></div></div></div></div></div></div><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzCd_I0MUXi-qz2_d-MprGZSnJs_abNBTpXVX7FN-OdCOn0vI9qQ1Te2faOhUK2_pDvpmJ1fMfaKreHlOKWKA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Biking for Antarctica<br /><p><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dz2dzFXtSoR7BGrzfsAqPoGRnAP9ws_xpcpenvpTJy5kdssZNuGDkyFZPweTaIYLajX7N4sfNcf1tJky7ylIA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Frisbee on the blog<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwSvZk0jhaMjFDycY_i-LpA38CKkVXLvt2HSPQ6l1iwHbHFSu3__vpTWSVU7YlmgSHtqnujJYlgTgIIjf9OUw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>The last we saw of Jordan?<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dz78uzumvOYFCi0qmG50bVAoVLBcjDU2BYKIDcUr_ezA87ceIRIeYayK46IotppX3egwTsbxQZRvBPNa_ZcCQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>The End of Phil Wood (ok this is actually week 13 - day 85 when we left Ushuaia)<br /></p><p> </p><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dywqPDR5-o9nQC_IMkR3Bwz-aEgY006wDlTvHAA7G8yZ9V7PxwBUXZP-jOtY2p10EKjAOxuVSuHXyfD65m2jg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Running down the trailMarcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-28824327343667773332008-06-06T12:56:00.001-07:002008-06-06T14:01:24.035-07:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinkxH8pTmb7U_AZyyuPkasxLWx1Xpq0zLTNHuzWVXFdyHKMXf2jvKIuWiehKur_QcSls3e_9tg8noZVh6vXNMcdJuH4Bdd2cbSgfagk2YZtHgowbxi7nQFWMPq9NU8okvLmyQYjgMkCqgs/s1600-h/134-1+-+Help.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208872443370039106" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinkxH8pTmb7U_AZyyuPkasxLWx1Xpq0zLTNHuzWVXFdyHKMXf2jvKIuWiehKur_QcSls3e_9tg8noZVh6vXNMcdJuH4Bdd2cbSgfagk2YZtHgowbxi7nQFWMPq9NU8okvLmyQYjgMkCqgs/s400/134-1+-+Help.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Week 20 - from Uyuni to Potosi - lemme outta this steam engine - day 134<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAMtihtFjrzJ86VAbew7HHfrK40W8-Mmc-jfUhiOOTW7OMhQSkD579Pxp6phZh9x5XgML_ROJ_2L2T4mUeseH0HJEvkkFlTW1I8Tzgaz2CRDbCkfywpaFN__UdEDP6XtVBpGb-ezpUuvG3/s1600-h/134-2+-+Pattern+in+iron.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208872447665006418" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAMtihtFjrzJ86VAbew7HHfrK40W8-Mmc-jfUhiOOTW7OMhQSkD579Pxp6phZh9x5XgML_ROJ_2L2T4mUeseH0HJEvkkFlTW1I8Tzgaz2CRDbCkfywpaFN__UdEDP6XtVBpGb-ezpUuvG3/s400/134-2+-+Pattern+in+iron.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Pattern in iron<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx3K0dcb4ue_M0qixNQ4Eb2Xj4Q2hkncoy28EwTZCqFkTswJZ7jm8VX6v_uKWdEV0GFM9GDp68aGRiWvBVMlWMbrDnZcYwrNbuhtOdI4kpniuIApUxj1QSFfat_FmGuuubxgRnr1BbxhZj/s1600-h/134-3+-+Dave+gets+a+ride.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208872451959973730" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx3K0dcb4ue_M0qixNQ4Eb2Xj4Q2hkncoy28EwTZCqFkTswJZ7jm8VX6v_uKWdEV0GFM9GDp68aGRiWvBVMlWMbrDnZcYwrNbuhtOdI4kpniuIApUxj1QSFfat_FmGuuubxgRnr1BbxhZj/s400/134-3+-+Dave+gets+a+ride.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Dave goes for a ride<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-oz9ZSS-rC0eN_bMd_GmYGPIRehTgtVBxliziV3FQPOWGyFWkG1b2J4gburovCIeV4BUYXZ4UX1tdLXp9mTdv10NGx_xfw1iEb0fMYP_8T0hGM88_o9eTjHCQ7EeTJLhIYZNbfhWgwt70/s1600-h/134-4+-+Hmmmm+brilliant.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208872451959973746" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-oz9ZSS-rC0eN_bMd_GmYGPIRehTgtVBxliziV3FQPOWGyFWkG1b2J4gburovCIeV4BUYXZ4UX1tdLXp9mTdv10NGx_xfw1iEb0fMYP_8T0hGM88_o9eTjHCQ7EeTJLhIYZNbfhWgwt70/s400/134-4+-+Hmmmm+brilliant.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Hmmmm <div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1WHGs1veWTgjSbhWfug8O0wkfurQDKJuoTB05pwN3zOQu6xN-VlW7Fi0A7ShwI5ZNIWy-HIjZc3h2mcIQNcNh_0LyO9tg6EUO9LxRckNOVzWLw4W4VdOra_XZDb9dD2ZAmwsfHuy70hXA/s1600-h/134-5+-+Dave+screws+up.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208872151312262898" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1WHGs1veWTgjSbhWfug8O0wkfurQDKJuoTB05pwN3zOQu6xN-VlW7Fi0A7ShwI5ZNIWy-HIjZc3h2mcIQNcNh_0LyO9tg6EUO9LxRckNOVzWLw4W4VdOra_XZDb9dD2ZAmwsfHuy70hXA/s400/134-5+-+Dave+screws+up.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Dave screws up<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht3ODKbTEhl5m3d0GiqC1yKGLcGPo-6eR-zXAjxhT-6uyuKsopbKeFtLTD_iXIQ8-pnSclBhVkqLVfEYLUGfrj4mX2NlqP5OMs84I8GtQrxMIH-e0tnTdk5EuQKgFMrrGMFk4_CBMZFgiN/s1600-h/135-1+-+Morning+Dust.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208872151312262914" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht3ODKbTEhl5m3d0GiqC1yKGLcGPo-6eR-zXAjxhT-6uyuKsopbKeFtLTD_iXIQ8-pnSclBhVkqLVfEYLUGfrj4mX2NlqP5OMs84I8GtQrxMIH-e0tnTdk5EuQKgFMrrGMFk4_CBMZFgiN/s400/135-1+-+Morning+Dust.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Get ready for dust - day 135<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Ty4DKc2Phl23TM-HcZDdqnGYxWn7NuaO9pl4t5MmwXDTlqZONSO6pByoaVsz8TkG79Rks9so3ZDwaBE0o9x0TxytPF0t7vqhrzQbOcry0y4jp4d10mxP0B369wPPph6sQ1RS28msA-gt/s1600-h/135-2+-+I+need+a+big+beer.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208872155607230226" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Ty4DKc2Phl23TM-HcZDdqnGYxWn7NuaO9pl4t5MmwXDTlqZONSO6pByoaVsz8TkG79Rks9so3ZDwaBE0o9x0TxytPF0t7vqhrzQbOcry0y4jp4d10mxP0B369wPPph6sQ1RS28msA-gt/s400/135-2+-+I+need+a+big+beer.jpg" border="0" /></a> - the following shots belong further down, the typical Salar trick shots...<br />I need a beer<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit2ZtfYInG2zvT-oporWkOHruRBFz0sJaMGeM3uGs6wcH4vpGfKiFSFfi6osEZZPfOwJayoqGCV57VvjWdBYWZuw2ColvwqyTo6phxRWvJBqa4RvfKQicXUX32uvp3Dizk1ChiwZL3vuUP/s1600-h/135-3+-+More+Mate.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208872155607230242" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit2ZtfYInG2zvT-oporWkOHruRBFz0sJaMGeM3uGs6wcH4vpGfKiFSFfi6osEZZPfOwJayoqGCV57VvjWdBYWZuw2ColvwqyTo6phxRWvJBqa4RvfKQicXUX32uvp3Dizk1ChiwZL3vuUP/s400/135-3+-+More+Mate.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />More<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5IhMUU4wXoWTQML8WKGxlvwZCdpkoo5WkGrtI5jnyAYErIJyaN6fGH9r6g_N4lWMeOIeCz7HPSYupHrVFJKe64biz0Bx3FBBwVMPIEjbpwoYz73ykxIuV-q_Bh4iRFkNw9RNLHhj4T4-a/s1600-h/135-4+-+My+Surrealist+Photo.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208872159902197554" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5IhMUU4wXoWTQML8WKGxlvwZCdpkoo5WkGrtI5jnyAYErIJyaN6fGH9r6g_N4lWMeOIeCz7HPSYupHrVFJKe64biz0Bx3FBBwVMPIEjbpwoYz73ykxIuV-q_Bh4iRFkNw9RNLHhj4T4-a/s400/135-4+-+My+Surrealist+Photo.jpg" border="0" /></a> Mate (that's mah-tay)<br /><br /><div>My surrealist shot<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyrEAV9qRioX9DIpywwWvGutPG-7msR5niYP4ghResUcpS9MApwNgbck5oZMtk81ZL58OfawzdqhQ4x2O1kFeoR2jejnXyjdKJCaT1XRUSaaUzriZ4HfQCGlZFzfhDt950Ei-LEejg61XK/s1600-h/135-5+-+Interesting.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208871515657103010" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyrEAV9qRioX9DIpywwWvGutPG-7msR5niYP4ghResUcpS9MApwNgbck5oZMtk81ZL58OfawzdqhQ4x2O1kFeoR2jejnXyjdKJCaT1XRUSaaUzriZ4HfQCGlZFzfhDt950Ei-LEejg61XK/s400/135-5+-+Interesting.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Interesting read<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW3orFUxRSImk6m9xnDYwk7xK34OMv-1MEeDJDTE9q_Uadrx8T_qUO6E86Di7FYoC_SKYweDJSWCtrndHYUugnW2DzTIZ0iPxFsPp3-GIvTJ6Y5jD6uaPebLffQI0X_XEod8HmRcP0ZthR/s1600-h/135-6+-+Playthings.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208871519952070322" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW3orFUxRSImk6m9xnDYwk7xK34OMv-1MEeDJDTE9q_Uadrx8T_qUO6E86Di7FYoC_SKYweDJSWCtrndHYUugnW2DzTIZ0iPxFsPp3-GIvTJ6Y5jD6uaPebLffQI0X_XEod8HmRcP0ZthR/s400/135-6+-+Playthings.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />I like this one<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzW0pCizUwOaR213xF5jUgqutIG5xu4XtucciDGunwkyh-wML5eXqsKieKnxgjM-MM2zfbC2akTfEGngDHYanrnoQjW7IYF2i4v1N3jKhXvWDYThUTW6g0Oo5B8mTl14uR5eX0IJtCqOLP/s1600-h/135-7+-+The+Fire+that+finally+got+Dave.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208871524247037634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzW0pCizUwOaR213xF5jUgqutIG5xu4XtucciDGunwkyh-wML5eXqsKieKnxgjM-MM2zfbC2akTfEGngDHYanrnoQjW7IYF2i4v1N3jKhXvWDYThUTW6g0Oo5B8mTl14uR5eX0IJtCqOLP/s400/135-7+-+The+Fire+that+finally+got+Dave.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Dave finally gets burned<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVwGkCaY25tSkj0CXGXJ7g8D-DsmKTCWFixD0CKtsOj4LBFcegt7N06YwaxT1IhZdklxtv9Mc3_oobzn3jZD7znHzBpbmrhY_-yL1YuNa7BQyKc-Q1uUeGEctL9ihpRwIx70W1Q5yARvgf/s1600-h/135-8+-+Waterbottle.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208871528542004946" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVwGkCaY25tSkj0CXGXJ7g8D-DsmKTCWFixD0CKtsOj4LBFcegt7N06YwaxT1IhZdklxtv9Mc3_oobzn3jZD7znHzBpbmrhY_-yL1YuNa7BQyKc-Q1uUeGEctL9ihpRwIx70W1Q5yARvgf/s400/135-8+-+Waterbottle.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Where did I leave that giant water bottle<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhzLZZwgPRN6_ON2G-Hp9cb9B7atTEnJiJajh38BxtpoEhdecOcrNJXEqmXpb56b1cecGTyUYrvsCdnAWHz5qQvlKb4yB_Cr6HVPldmbllXMt4MVYMhCf0rOfuc0iCadjXYEWrPGyscc7D/s1600-h/135-9+-+BigWheel.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208871528542004962" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhzLZZwgPRN6_ON2G-Hp9cb9B7atTEnJiJajh38BxtpoEhdecOcrNJXEqmXpb56b1cecGTyUYrvsCdnAWHz5qQvlKb4yB_Cr6HVPldmbllXMt4MVYMhCf0rOfuc0iCadjXYEWrPGyscc7D/s400/135-9+-+BigWheel.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div>Big Wheel<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZf6o9pEiIa432ZZYHU-_hNS4yKEQEqLlDqV6GyXulXD1Yojqz6N4q7L7R3ySwM2CHS1-2kafHZgbN0EY3lwLasoWnpv8GaUB51u7NB8XSFjXgpGcAIi8fx_N21TkEhMYwrHHTG4pZCRwV/s1600-h/135-10+-+In+All+Seriousness.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208871210714424914" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZf6o9pEiIa432ZZYHU-_hNS4yKEQEqLlDqV6GyXulXD1Yojqz6N4q7L7R3ySwM2CHS1-2kafHZgbN0EY3lwLasoWnpv8GaUB51u7NB8XSFjXgpGcAIi8fx_N21TkEhMYwrHHTG4pZCRwV/s400/135-10+-+In+All+Seriousness.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />In all seriousness<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu_6kbDQHPYly4uoO50UcmX32BOnzeDygViBXm4fEqplUonlJbggIC3lb4aTRZ2XetibfZy-rEpMJVVRK69D7zcPKANowsrw8iSpOM9KLeFUQnEzL3AwBu0kqd6xch4ATVwkPcVfKGrU4b/s1600-h/135-11+-+No+Comment.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208871210714424930" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu_6kbDQHPYly4uoO50UcmX32BOnzeDygViBXm4fEqplUonlJbggIC3lb4aTRZ2XetibfZy-rEpMJVVRK69D7zcPKANowsrw8iSpOM9KLeFUQnEzL3AwBu0kqd6xch4ATVwkPcVfKGrU4b/s400/135-11+-+No+Comment.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />No comment<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2lcKNJ2SKXXHQ9x-yzO75YHwUcUceItPrKuk8jzxDEnFUDlsZbDY8fcGhHJ_cNs86fTcLL1bkynNdPOtPFEc8kbYd7vMqX_tZJjNKcx4QdRviYs2CBPAjpQPamPV570qWKfE290baiv4X/s1600-h/135-12+-+My+Beloved+Schwinn.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208871215009392242" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2lcKNJ2SKXXHQ9x-yzO75YHwUcUceItPrKuk8jzxDEnFUDlsZbDY8fcGhHJ_cNs86fTcLL1bkynNdPOtPFEc8kbYd7vMqX_tZJjNKcx4QdRviYs2CBPAjpQPamPV570qWKfE290baiv4X/s400/135-12+-+My+Beloved+Schwinn.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />My beloved Schwinn<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiiclA6S5u2iOp86bGgzd5mkrGu0tkOXHwnN0TylOW40ibbDRPQTkeIEq8j5GhoLioyc0clg5LIXsZD-387AUnwblBIBeuwp_mowHdtwZopfEc_78STJU4LCj1hIZGENOd_JOAwdGu9Fvx/s1600-h/135-13+-+Just+Ride.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208871219304359554" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiiclA6S5u2iOp86bGgzd5mkrGu0tkOXHwnN0TylOW40ibbDRPQTkeIEq8j5GhoLioyc0clg5LIXsZD-387AUnwblBIBeuwp_mowHdtwZopfEc_78STJU4LCj1hIZGENOd_JOAwdGu9Fvx/s400/135-13+-+Just+Ride.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The riders<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8NkCh4s1_7J6IZMaBkk8GjjQZMALBDrvqR4h_Vt_TVM4Gwbjy9ISYxurge2y77VtgOtgvzGUyzsiJ9g6XGiiYzyARb0Xw6mNFa2NMnga6iJjr7rj8sXRqsajj1W-V9TfzbseND8kEUA3c/s1600-h/135-14+-+Delicate+Crystal.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208871219304359570" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8NkCh4s1_7J6IZMaBkk8GjjQZMALBDrvqR4h_Vt_TVM4Gwbjy9ISYxurge2y77VtgOtgvzGUyzsiJ9g6XGiiYzyARb0Xw6mNFa2NMnga6iJjr7rj8sXRqsajj1W-V9TfzbseND8kEUA3c/s400/135-14+-+Delicate+Crystal.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Salt Crystal<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Muxh3LC6vsLVgLbpLUprFs4vKZAFQWa5BQ3jsvf7kg7ajgEtbjkv9Pi7TKoV1dlZ9YVdLDrQfpenmbssMuLsFjqcHBMz8RazKoKRePZ7AJ5vRcOUgevJ9E9Db6G7iEZEyJVZm7C0Gizk/s1600-h/135-15+-+Mandelbrot.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208870626598872578" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Muxh3LC6vsLVgLbpLUprFs4vKZAFQWa5BQ3jsvf7kg7ajgEtbjkv9Pi7TKoV1dlZ9YVdLDrQfpenmbssMuLsFjqcHBMz8RazKoKRePZ7AJ5vRcOUgevJ9E9Db6G7iEZEyJVZm7C0Gizk/s400/135-15+-+Mandelbrot.jpg" border="0" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglcBDRzNk-6JNYGlj1i-vatFvKtm86YQO7OKDs_6hpU0c39c3fdFEe-bMFWIKLqsx2VNxKvPCKMZKbTozdP8lz71VsRt5vgk4KGvk6Qjw5qn3aHAsGtq_mBcknsmxUZeDDcuXMYLMCYvBw/s1600-h/137-1+-+Uyuni+Train+Street.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208870630893839890" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglcBDRzNk-6JNYGlj1i-vatFvKtm86YQO7OKDs_6hpU0c39c3fdFEe-bMFWIKLqsx2VNxKvPCKMZKbTozdP8lz71VsRt5vgk4KGvk6Qjw5qn3aHAsGtq_mBcknsmxUZeDDcuXMYLMCYvBw/s400/137-1+-+Uyuni+Train+Street.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Mandelbrot (above)<br />Uyuni Street<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaUXCq9TabsY4kVEkxLFwNbXJ3rl6cCdZ3Q34W2tLXW6AvzphNt8IPMUHzxHc0NQ5znDT5EB-Sg3oFfPawQxzNFMJe2AwtGLbyKqCYdUkRdi9-Ovhcb7L49iRrz1x5Jn3aqUqaeKImMnRC/s1600-h/137-3+-+Minuteman+Pizza.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208870635188807218" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaUXCq9TabsY4kVEkxLFwNbXJ3rl6cCdZ3Q34W2tLXW6AvzphNt8IPMUHzxHc0NQ5znDT5EB-Sg3oFfPawQxzNFMJe2AwtGLbyKqCYdUkRdi9-Ovhcb7L49iRrz1x5Jn3aqUqaeKImMnRC/s400/137-3+-+Minuteman+Pizza.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Minuteman Pizza<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfnHpgTWPDmrNXp62HXY4zpeN1IqBmtmDUthZ0RcwNjZhx7VE80M7sV3GlHThyphenhyphenI1Clzo_1V0zQPIh7_l8OCisnWYyVxkoKmljEZ_-T8ObHTCpwPW2giS7-FMNvYXtNoXy2R4IoMcMItvXR/s1600-h/137-4+-+Waiting+for+Gas.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208870635188807234" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfnHpgTWPDmrNXp62HXY4zpeN1IqBmtmDUthZ0RcwNjZhx7VE80M7sV3GlHThyphenhyphenI1Clzo_1V0zQPIh7_l8OCisnWYyVxkoKmljEZ_-T8ObHTCpwPW2giS7-FMNvYXtNoXy2R4IoMcMItvXR/s400/137-4+-+Waiting+for+Gas.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Waiting for gas (for cooking) in Bolivia<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPSCW7kM7EgYo_PoteCEeJbjaDHu9EvEaUMv6VfkMPIQj3GJ5eY1N0PWTRKb9wrTYURvP0QShaBIH4IfD0x1yIHlq4T0UW04moN4WNDHhSx9ICZe1AdpU9v5ocvnEfzCTjFj92mbjlW1eC/s1600-h/137-5+-+French+Recumbent.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208870046778287538" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPSCW7kM7EgYo_PoteCEeJbjaDHu9EvEaUMv6VfkMPIQj3GJ5eY1N0PWTRKb9wrTYURvP0QShaBIH4IfD0x1yIHlq4T0UW04moN4WNDHhSx9ICZe1AdpU9v5ocvnEfzCTjFj92mbjlW1eC/s400/137-5+-+French+Recumbent.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />French recumbent (first recumbent we've seen)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtqzqojLPMJAz2jIRuj3VHslayB6Gaagn_S7Q39ArcntEdPixQ8wNbotRCrsZSLP7N6YVcglRBcGRfiqoGnJD_fwHdWpyhPVe6FJKem53jURwZtBXN7hZREdOW9ei_BCZxnw5NVkikX5m/s1600-h/137-6+-+Dave+Salar+Final.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208870051073254850" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtqzqojLPMJAz2jIRuj3VHslayB6Gaagn_S7Q39ArcntEdPixQ8wNbotRCrsZSLP7N6YVcglRBcGRfiqoGnJD_fwHdWpyhPVe6FJKem53jURwZtBXN7hZREdOW9ei_BCZxnw5NVkikX5m/s400/137-6+-+Dave+Salar+Final.jpg" border="0" /></a> - day 137<br />Final look at the Salar<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO-tk1ZgW9DbY7my3tuAQ8nI1q0a4O9g5EO6CV7vEI-vlSHJw3Cxw4-lTSLZJC8xWEW048nYDuLInzwvH7X8hYTBgcp2x95PodT_ltRfdl2_Ah6pYnnHgeS5Pw3WllbvsL-Ep5BQBUrkM2/s1600-h/137-7+-+Salt+Hotel+and+Island.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208870055368222162" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO-tk1ZgW9DbY7my3tuAQ8nI1q0a4O9g5EO6CV7vEI-vlSHJw3Cxw4-lTSLZJC8xWEW048nYDuLInzwvH7X8hYTBgcp2x95PodT_ltRfdl2_Ah6pYnnHgeS5Pw3WllbvsL-Ep5BQBUrkM2/s400/137-7+-+Salt+Hotel+and+Island.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />That speck is the hotel, on the left is the island<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjtnbtx-3yAzUBkNQpWCXrz75SnLd7r_WUfv9Wq_IBMcGhklQabZmZQkg8g7scuwGhX9z4dKJfY8jLl6JLgb88y9qRqaB0PMgdjk0FcfkVtthaD4aT20uX86FpqE66B3QPDvIS29nS6Z3j/s1600-h/137-8+-+Me+Salar+Final.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208870055368222178" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjtnbtx-3yAzUBkNQpWCXrz75SnLd7r_WUfv9Wq_IBMcGhklQabZmZQkg8g7scuwGhX9z4dKJfY8jLl6JLgb88y9qRqaB0PMgdjk0FcfkVtthaD4aT20uX86FpqE66B3QPDvIS29nS6Z3j/s400/137-8+-+Me+Salar+Final.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />My final salar shot<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGUd4aFZxUUa33tL4bLAcQNMyY_d0NYHKUu2DTKnljJ217n5llw5WCk-77X2a3excBXIKEqMMdut9NWrBEcCbyMd4p130O0gwzX42o6fokV5INSI4Mjr8uzejNg35lqPPdMfPhpYuYnGkz/s1600-h/137-9+-+Pulacayo.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208870059663189490" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGUd4aFZxUUa33tL4bLAcQNMyY_d0NYHKUu2DTKnljJ217n5llw5WCk-77X2a3excBXIKEqMMdut9NWrBEcCbyMd4p130O0gwzX42o6fokV5INSI4Mjr8uzejNg35lqPPdMfPhpYuYnGkz/s400/137-9+-+Pulacayo.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Pulacayo<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0mNAuPzxzL0xi7JpSN4bfDgRdGqJUllaic7lNmkX0twvP9BHe17VVf9TLGLJqbUfokwzoYhMNhPh_tqrin9UFaGK1vI2fmGUahxlHgfk_bcWvDcoenm7VeHMacqIs4HvdTNk0EB4Kp9YR/s1600-h/138-1+-+Morning+Camp.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208869509907375458" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0mNAuPzxzL0xi7JpSN4bfDgRdGqJUllaic7lNmkX0twvP9BHe17VVf9TLGLJqbUfokwzoYhMNhPh_tqrin9UFaGK1vI2fmGUahxlHgfk_bcWvDcoenm7VeHMacqIs4HvdTNk0EB4Kp9YR/s400/138-1+-+Morning+Camp.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Morning camp<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjST589Iel1b9iadkuIZOALUotvqHjXMIqgHj9Vz4OLcKx2PmgRpxVDdumBwIFCq84gvTHAPAmBXuVwyOnOcLbQdLS6xZTTsvO7VtYKvRTE1-5Fn4p1rv4ULSpjIiV6cQo97MX-Ev1bfiT0/s1600-h/138-2+-+Tica+Tica.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208869509907375474" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjST589Iel1b9iadkuIZOALUotvqHjXMIqgHj9Vz4OLcKx2PmgRpxVDdumBwIFCq84gvTHAPAmBXuVwyOnOcLbQdLS6xZTTsvO7VtYKvRTE1-5Fn4p1rv4ULSpjIiV6cQo97MX-Ev1bfiT0/s400/138-2+-+Tica+Tica.jpg" border="0" /></a> - 138<br />Tico Tico<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitnADiZWl5bQk2xJaLPAi3PuiPhay4WMuF6UPYqsgKY4nQytz32flDKXdDMSVb6OohEw54GS1mTB-b56XZCmsth24-tUy0D5y0H-QJRUNt3lrA6kP51zaAccIbLpGf-IntSN_GCbVA7bPa/s1600-h/138-3+-+Nice+Descent.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208869514202342786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitnADiZWl5bQk2xJaLPAi3PuiPhay4WMuF6UPYqsgKY4nQytz32flDKXdDMSVb6OohEw54GS1mTB-b56XZCmsth24-tUy0D5y0H-QJRUNt3lrA6kP51zaAccIbLpGf-IntSN_GCbVA7bPa/s400/138-3+-+Nice+Descent.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Nice descent, 19999 & 20000 below<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5FSL2ZjYHGJTyp2Lz3xif0PD2rQheyBcf-RqpsIgkdbM9n3M_l4YUkIxf4LPqujGpnt55_xH6DfsfiEw27s1rQWPhmickY_hS8WTui8LPCW24yfcWjODQC1Xc_L0YPzmjlFfAZnBDfx1/s1600-h/138-4+-+19999.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208869514202342802" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5FSL2ZjYHGJTyp2Lz3xif0PD2rQheyBcf-RqpsIgkdbM9n3M_l4YUkIxf4LPqujGpnt55_xH6DfsfiEw27s1rQWPhmickY_hS8WTui8LPCW24yfcWjODQC1Xc_L0YPzmjlFfAZnBDfx1/s400/138-4+-+19999.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKh8hg1G_pan4lp6ETsrUjCf5LtpJgDgaKG2_LQYWLxldxAv8m3kPggU1LRL8lF8yGHovjS-RD0qARl8_YDPfvdcEoE6CATKsyrYfnZAKfYQ4WJF-Gyhny1mXibU-8VOnDfcSH7iZQ5sp4/s1600-h/138-5+-+20000.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208869518497310114" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKh8hg1G_pan4lp6ETsrUjCf5LtpJgDgaKG2_LQYWLxldxAv8m3kPggU1LRL8lF8yGHovjS-RD0qARl8_YDPfvdcEoE6CATKsyrYfnZAKfYQ4WJF-Gyhny1mXibU-8VOnDfcSH7iZQ5sp4/s400/138-5+-+20000.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LnQtwY41rdtxb0NO76FNZFQDOf_JLWOvqrhTUTAb6g9EMSd2dSzZ1J4z8dMOOG8y852ijgCSMo8YahAXLyyH69xozgpdzczh3lqq6wg1i5KjtS_ZB8nAwPjANUQkOAR2IbgE2BHv2VfI/s1600-h/138-6+-+Neat+evening+canyon.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208868577899472146" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LnQtwY41rdtxb0NO76FNZFQDOf_JLWOvqrhTUTAb6g9EMSd2dSzZ1J4z8dMOOG8y852ijgCSMo8YahAXLyyH69xozgpdzczh3lqq6wg1i5KjtS_ZB8nAwPjANUQkOAR2IbgE2BHv2VfI/s400/138-6+-+Neat+evening+canyon.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Beautiful evening shot<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgidcnnVIn7kp5yRFyDPcVStqwolU6W06NsjWB83x4VFb8UwIV9A9uTdP_fCSY_tCUPdsG_qsoWcwsUivoTYNb1LyYveeO1W6e_QGyM92qlPSjICTPAZPAOYPAxk79IIVCTTv1KN24IrC0H/s1600-h/139-1+-+Morning+Camp.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208868582194439458" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgidcnnVIn7kp5yRFyDPcVStqwolU6W06NsjWB83x4VFb8UwIV9A9uTdP_fCSY_tCUPdsG_qsoWcwsUivoTYNb1LyYveeO1W6e_QGyM92qlPSjICTPAZPAOYPAxk79IIVCTTv1KN24IrC0H/s400/139-1+-+Morning+Camp.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Our campsite - small speck in lower left side is camp related<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKD-fvzvn4S4JYnBr-v1V609zcSiI8rEN_FH0C6w8VGilyDcHO3G1ZOlLNyEq55XAUHnd2nS4wwwhnrz3nrY72AN4HYLTN6Kc5FPQly_w4oKMlgcVdUOrRZn_qJv55zn1emOGUywDgoX0S/s1600-h/139-2+-+Llamas+Lunchin.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208868586489406770" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKD-fvzvn4S4JYnBr-v1V609zcSiI8rEN_FH0C6w8VGilyDcHO3G1ZOlLNyEq55XAUHnd2nS4wwwhnrz3nrY72AN4HYLTN6Kc5FPQly_w4oKMlgcVdUOrRZn_qJv55zn1emOGUywDgoX0S/s400/139-2+-+Llamas+Lunchin.jpg" border="0" /></a> -139<br />Llamas Lunchin<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkBkJGlYfWVRxXrK-Vwg5CDvBSdzT59eat4QcyVtE6nT7oWcGLKI39186HEI8_VJeG8cPU7EW8ykebbOSxhEngVPAVgKbyKy6Cltu08qt4vqEf3elgUMk9G7aGGymSsz9LKFmJJVfU52Q9/s1600-h/139-3+-+Blue+Yellow+Theme.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208868586489406786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkBkJGlYfWVRxXrK-Vwg5CDvBSdzT59eat4QcyVtE6nT7oWcGLKI39186HEI8_VJeG8cPU7EW8ykebbOSxhEngVPAVgKbyKy6Cltu08qt4vqEf3elgUMk9G7aGGymSsz9LKFmJJVfU52Q9/s400/139-3+-+Blue+Yellow+Theme.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Train and truck and building in blue-yellow theme - Aguas Castillas<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4jbojhBdJZIDgZrCe0cB8tVWJqPixnrVuUhGMPg4zZChsVpNzkxOXyZVXtLLDiRN6TqZZi3i8Yd7AxCsY7N3zyaCROFJjxsl5kjks8WxSTke6DkS9I4eMbwcBYBqhhfHU2TT2g_h-6G8/s1600-h/139-4+-+Aguas+Castillas+and+Porco.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208868590784374098" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4jbojhBdJZIDgZrCe0cB8tVWJqPixnrVuUhGMPg4zZChsVpNzkxOXyZVXtLLDiRN6TqZZi3i8Yd7AxCsY7N3zyaCROFJjxsl5kjks8WxSTke6DkS9I4eMbwcBYBqhhfHU2TT2g_h-6G8/s400/139-4+-+Aguas+Castillas+and+Porco.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Aguas Castillas and Porco<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJQRUvkV9616EelvtViP-oRJ5K2jSMF5T87nwTaQEfV-9H44bNsqVfB-qPLStZJc9MOxtnuL0oQLV-3m79NTiAyQK58-_jbDMF6QBJ4L_g3kdU4D3uGC2-hjozUsp0qVf3nnDQRMvtlX6/s1600-h/139-5+-+Basketball+in+the+Desert.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208866636574254274" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJQRUvkV9616EelvtViP-oRJ5K2jSMF5T87nwTaQEfV-9H44bNsqVfB-qPLStZJc9MOxtnuL0oQLV-3m79NTiAyQK58-_jbDMF6QBJ4L_g3kdU4D3uGC2-hjozUsp0qVf3nnDQRMvtlX6/s400/139-5+-+Basketball+in+the+Desert.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Desert Basketball<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdKUUMLZswU5MlHXiU433wHJTTLc1uVREFa2Vxf6JMBp70uyXqxq7_ZDePvn070GPwJojVf9YXZcgRfM7tfuT9PtvN-FKW19HEGF05hLLVu6mEYYmOtXvp9z9Py3BnrLg0MZYWnA0fmvGK/s1600-h/140-1+-+Another+Hidden+Campsite.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208866649459156178" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdKUUMLZswU5MlHXiU433wHJTTLc1uVREFa2Vxf6JMBp70uyXqxq7_ZDePvn070GPwJojVf9YXZcgRfM7tfuT9PtvN-FKW19HEGF05hLLVu6mEYYmOtXvp9z9Py3BnrLg0MZYWnA0fmvGK/s400/140-1+-+Another+Hidden+Campsite.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Last campsite before Potosi - day 140<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH3oxBHpg1iMisLcSsH_E3AMbtHYdCgkreA_UWmh8x3Vl5UnKVg_1ehqPlvciqoj3o6JJeiMFTQ7D-d8myMj2TUzHlNdqn6oluvLExzDyREAup8lRjCBpSLLjYK5Y7az0azkJcGCbcxkVm/s1600-h/140-2+-+Potosi+and+Jail+from+below.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208866653754123490" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH3oxBHpg1iMisLcSsH_E3AMbtHYdCgkreA_UWmh8x3Vl5UnKVg_1ehqPlvciqoj3o6JJeiMFTQ7D-d8myMj2TUzHlNdqn6oluvLExzDyREAup8lRjCBpSLLjYK5Y7az0azkJcGCbcxkVm/s400/140-2+-+Potosi+and+Jail+from+below.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Potosi from the prison below, and below - my kinda town and a shot of Cerro Rico<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkGjXPpUTLl1QrZiVgLu2ue6cnhirnQR0aMtRRObwP7lZU2u5Gjm_J98PeKT84KVCYJ6z29Q3NtXW6Wu1RCRFrUtGU8b0Sb7VpMig_A_UqHdYbKzWf8ghl8fU4qUPxDtwvWuEc13BkTrSQ/s1600-h/140-3+-+Potosi+My+Kinda+Town.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208866658049090802" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkGjXPpUTLl1QrZiVgLu2ue6cnhirnQR0aMtRRObwP7lZU2u5Gjm_J98PeKT84KVCYJ6z29Q3NtXW6Wu1RCRFrUtGU8b0Sb7VpMig_A_UqHdYbKzWf8ghl8fU4qUPxDtwvWuEc13BkTrSQ/s400/140-3+-+Potosi+My+Kinda+Town.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBVwsiFCYd56E_vuXS2iGe8FQGA_azCO4qspLwIO6GNjSvJ3vwflUe3GDGs44mpaaxDqNp-jPWp9IP50U2iTXAJ3OENU7h9xLX8INpMT0DcUCX6oDP56Vi1_wKIemlaNsUQwhke6lRY7g0/s1600-h/140-4+-+Arch+Potosi+Cerro+Rico.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208866666639025410" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBVwsiFCYd56E_vuXS2iGe8FQGA_azCO4qspLwIO6GNjSvJ3vwflUe3GDGs44mpaaxDqNp-jPWp9IP50U2iTXAJ3OENU7h9xLX8INpMT0DcUCX6oDP56Vi1_wKIemlaNsUQwhke6lRY7g0/s400/140-4+-+Arch+Potosi+Cerro+Rico.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGnBPeLY28iQBJ5gCF6cbuMZV9nwTNBBzJsRIoKLeshS__eGIbkAUOXXulLrRuUj_qs68DnwUqS8fqMTZBfAo7UQGbaWGIZRsp8rJ8P8Y5d54-0vfIH2lzBE3HfXzgReXdBlTWrraI12nZ/s1600-h/140-5+-+Potosi+Street+Shot.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208865455458247794" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGnBPeLY28iQBJ5gCF6cbuMZV9nwTNBBzJsRIoKLeshS__eGIbkAUOXXulLrRuUj_qs68DnwUqS8fqMTZBfAo7UQGbaWGIZRsp8rJ8P8Y5d54-0vfIH2lzBE3HfXzgReXdBlTWrraI12nZ/s400/140-5+-+Potosi+Street+Shot.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Street shot, the Koala Den, and where´s that locomotive hiding<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLxU5ym8dOXId9w3GDeKSDJ4WdfzWdiSGrNNa9op8rd9QzF-GO-4M_lobM4YvhKdtAOjczIG3zlqGeCWipCuCITudUm1FhvP48E8DscqYAMw0rU1kApMZKrXIae-TIwo8-j0fjVBwJ986/s1600-h/140-6+-+Koala+Den+Courtyard.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208865464048182402" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLxU5ym8dOXId9w3GDeKSDJ4WdfzWdiSGrNNa9op8rd9QzF-GO-4M_lobM4YvhKdtAOjczIG3zlqGeCWipCuCITudUm1FhvP48E8DscqYAMw0rU1kApMZKrXIae-TIwo8-j0fjVBwJ986/s400/140-6+-+Koala+Den+Courtyard.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzyKdlXsAesWnxfbcLcMLZr51ACx4wvlbleKPJKLJjKgJ5xZ4Y92zFm4vsQGb_wbjNWkLSXjj7pznztB91_XsjxJSRyNRwnJZ2_Wfhmtfjn90pjsP5dOJWgp5NJ4wT235sTgW5zGafTYwh/s1600-h/140-7+-+Where+did+I+leave+that+Steam+Engine.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208865464048182418" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzyKdlXsAesWnxfbcLcMLZr51ACx4wvlbleKPJKLJjKgJ5xZ4Y92zFm4vsQGb_wbjNWkLSXjj7pznztB91_XsjxJSRyNRwnJZ2_Wfhmtfjn90pjsP5dOJWgp5NJ4wT235sTgW5zGafTYwh/s400/140-7+-+Where+did+I+leave+that+Steam+Engine.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA20OQLC12Ke-3u44Qovf8v0M2DPI0Hk3ZO2gIeDAVejGZrKNr-e2iRMu2tmA7DPNTm_HGjXxIOFgS8VPWgYih3K5cXWytFQqmyo2BHgUDUZOqcHbIHvn9KJFTgL6hSALRbj8QBqlwZKQE/s1600-h/140-8+-+The+Art+Gallery.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208865468343149730" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA20OQLC12Ke-3u44Qovf8v0M2DPI0Hk3ZO2gIeDAVejGZrKNr-e2iRMu2tmA7DPNTm_HGjXxIOFgS8VPWgYih3K5cXWytFQqmyo2BHgUDUZOqcHbIHvn9KJFTgL6hSALRbj8QBqlwZKQE/s400/140-8+-+The+Art+Gallery.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The art gallery (with last pic of loco., at the Casa de Moneda)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7G_LvMxBs2lgdf5X7GXs5SLr-I-pWqi8xBh37JZj7e_uUYppey4GzFoYYLBeVWuz6dn1mrzxZiyrWcj0eM6J0-BQM81rvbQ2EGjkbc5KwfUuLKo6dvNvHXWvsXi4fD62lTD2etAlFI7ZB/s1600-h/140-9+-+The+Virgin+of+Cerro+Rico.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208865472638117042" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7G_LvMxBs2lgdf5X7GXs5SLr-I-pWqi8xBh37JZj7e_uUYppey4GzFoYYLBeVWuz6dn1mrzxZiyrWcj0eM6J0-BQM81rvbQ2EGjkbc5KwfUuLKo6dvNvHXWvsXi4fD62lTD2etAlFI7ZB/s400/140-9+-+The+Virgin+of+Cerro+Rico.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Virgin of Cerro Rico - see text for more explanation<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAX7Yty3xJN8GsrMcAQq2opQbmBIVKwdBUZ_-hX2c5EjdK2b4MVXqenzePQugnETS4nDQ77warHh9iyUt0vpQlA6AgPQQDM4zOKFr3GPZP11avgErqROCYJEfaUOMZMd9GXgrCxG0RtU8F/s1600-h/140-10+-+Metal+Rolling+Mills.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208863965104596002" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAX7Yty3xJN8GsrMcAQq2opQbmBIVKwdBUZ_-hX2c5EjdK2b4MVXqenzePQugnETS4nDQ77warHh9iyUt0vpQlA6AgPQQDM4zOKFr3GPZP11avgErqROCYJEfaUOMZMd9GXgrCxG0RtU8F/s400/140-10+-+Metal+Rolling+Mills.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Metal forming machinery, 17th century<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZxr5SHk6LQoUKdoFoebeqpWbT_3xe8rk3uygU9THmXXozWlp1a6FzcWY_qvbk-4I_daXqMhBThdmNm1gT5S8UiMG7wsQ27KhUU4PDN_Gj80XwLSOLrvDL3vq9wejXyCmrekn4aIex2R1W/s1600-h/140-11+-+Hows+This.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208863965104596018" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZxr5SHk6LQoUKdoFoebeqpWbT_3xe8rk3uygU9THmXXozWlp1a6FzcWY_qvbk-4I_daXqMhBThdmNm1gT5S8UiMG7wsQ27KhUU4PDN_Gj80XwLSOLrvDL3vq9wejXyCmrekn4aIex2R1W/s400/140-11+-+Hows+This.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Hold that look<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMcZchKs9Ceu0oGpUAGqpSQfMRy_AplE3cc3jW9eBIRkCO6or48ZhRGo7ZteuDyzi-22oHE1t2XsJqOiSkQxDVt4T82oeEcYINnkCAZDAK4iny3CSbdPdT0oGn10rKeRtYUT8Gl3eQ0Gna/s1600-h/140-12+-+Bolivianita-Ametrino.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208863973694530626" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMcZchKs9Ceu0oGpUAGqpSQfMRy_AplE3cc3jW9eBIRkCO6or48ZhRGo7ZteuDyzi-22oHE1t2XsJqOiSkQxDVt4T82oeEcYINnkCAZDAK4iny3CSbdPdT0oGn10rKeRtYUT8Gl3eQ0Gna/s400/140-12+-+Bolivianita-Ametrino.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Bolivianita - Ametrino<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYUnTca6esVBKqeTjrRL1K3qGVv-z4peXyjBtYbK7pXQVe2JABhTwzdEdgPietmDeOwb3XNK7gZDUy_4pNyti63hnWC7WucRtOX-m0evuiFAXOEnzvn06T2jm2Aky8_PNJDwR4LCz7LRuW/s1600-h/140-13+-+Mummies+from+local+church+-+17-18th+cent.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208863973694530642" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYUnTca6esVBKqeTjrRL1K3qGVv-z4peXyjBtYbK7pXQVe2JABhTwzdEdgPietmDeOwb3XNK7gZDUy_4pNyti63hnWC7WucRtOX-m0evuiFAXOEnzvn06T2jm2Aky8_PNJDwR4LCz7LRuW/s400/140-13+-+Mummies+from+local+church+-+17-18th+cent.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Child mummies on display<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlEj9ujgCjMXNVWlyui88lQTMj-QcdGXj6Xtpep39KrbpSqggjGYHXH2vrzUFO__FgqUhh6IiCiKTgEsZiuKdX5jfdzOjlxReDCPy6c9AiQwhS4oATEsmqNapilWKAyon2MQbZUzJy242O/s1600-h/140-14+-+Ornate+Teapot.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208863977989497954" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlEj9ujgCjMXNVWlyui88lQTMj-QcdGXj6Xtpep39KrbpSqggjGYHXH2vrzUFO__FgqUhh6IiCiKTgEsZiuKdX5jfdzOjlxReDCPy6c9AiQwhS4oATEsmqNapilWKAyon2MQbZUzJy242O/s400/140-14+-+Ornate+Teapot.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Interesting teapot<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg50RPZ6Ybs18zvOjOxEUUizmgFSByS7w6w23xakhTcuAhyjZCUIh9enRMAp1lbNx2q8FuSzl_yyc8yBsNxLhBBHlUV9eubFFllNEOTvnaUTBOgJnYqkRuWhOjs_P0JcskquF1FZHPxGnr4/s1600-h/140-15+-+Steam+Engine.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208861353764479954" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg50RPZ6Ybs18zvOjOxEUUizmgFSByS7w6w23xakhTcuAhyjZCUIh9enRMAp1lbNx2q8FuSzl_yyc8yBsNxLhBBHlUV9eubFFllNEOTvnaUTBOgJnYqkRuWhOjs_P0JcskquF1FZHPxGnr4/s400/140-15+-+Steam+Engine.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Switch to steam for minting<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCN1p8DGRXnNExYFp_Q5YoJDKiqPiLnlc205LEQek_oJUqQpbM5NfTjV_VXJPNe2gWox_2vx8LYeXZv34sVPx28ebTkApcu0JP2L9AV02lhabaRz9AS9hMT0_RON9shplwhavmgXgiqmk/s1600-h/140-16+-+Electric+Era.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208861358059447266" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCN1p8DGRXnNExYFp_Q5YoJDKiqPiLnlc205LEQek_oJUqQpbM5NfTjV_VXJPNe2gWox_2vx8LYeXZv34sVPx28ebTkApcu0JP2L9AV02lhabaRz9AS9hMT0_RON9shplwhavmgXgiqmk/s400/140-16+-+Electric+Era.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Then switch to Electricity (and finally switch to Canada and Spain, the current source<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9cne0O9hJY-OySSG58k0P5i3M9r1fVhGxSYUta7uBWVwYl8ZIY9M1Cp3kHHeXQ5Hnp5ExU4Z41ZKic98iHxuF-emPqcVwQ_SQG2gRDOsPo38lWfzhE5RD318-1X5pHb-5dzygSycA06l9/s1600-h/140-17+-+Casa+de+Moneda.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208861358059447282" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9cne0O9hJY-OySSG58k0P5i3M9r1fVhGxSYUta7uBWVwYl8ZIY9M1Cp3kHHeXQ5Hnp5ExU4Z41ZKic98iHxuF-emPqcVwQ_SQG2gRDOsPo38lWfzhE5RD318-1X5pHb-5dzygSycA06l9/s400/140-17+-+Casa+de+Moneda.JPG" border="0" /></a> for coins and notes). This is at the Casa de Moneda, below is a place for meat and a night shot of Potosi<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI61sVxr1IQ14YP707K09os5tNeozapx8ZPN4lU5x4ToI7O_V-jCaZPza8O8ru95J-vtN_ukCOh6V6HX1lOipeafVRz1ivpS_Uicc8GEGslDV5ZtbVmauyfuvl4y6RuLvA__GGkFcYX0bf/s1600-h/140-18+-+Potosi+and+Cerro+Rico.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208861358059447298" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI61sVxr1IQ14YP707K09os5tNeozapx8ZPN4lU5x4ToI7O_V-jCaZPza8O8ru95J-vtN_ukCOh6V6HX1lOipeafVRz1ivpS_Uicc8GEGslDV5ZtbVmauyfuvl4y6RuLvA__GGkFcYX0bf/s400/140-18+-+Potosi+and+Cerro+Rico.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiog3S72sQ1CZ0FhXsxQBHzrzeV0PAxM0nfzHtUNBGbZt9YIq7ufHULmRFxnzlsu3012APQUBESnc8RDcvJ0Q4mX5V7NNw728Vep-67HCGro7CLLhQsP-8bLveST9BXsh5BmBRLESICFt22/s1600-h/140-19+-+A+Place+for+Meat.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208861362354414610" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiog3S72sQ1CZ0FhXsxQBHzrzeV0PAxM0nfzHtUNBGbZt9YIq7ufHULmRFxnzlsu3012APQUBESnc8RDcvJ0Q4mX5V7NNw728Vep-67HCGro7CLLhQsP-8bLveST9BXsh5BmBRLESICFt22/s400/140-19+-+A+Place+for+Meat.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Week 20 - Return to the Salar and then to Potosi</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />OK, I won't even guess where all these extra line feeds came from just now, sorry, I'll fix all this... someday.<br /><br /><div>Day 134 - </div><br /><div>Today won't be live - I'm currently on the rooftop terrace of the Koala's Den hostel in Potosi, but you can read more about that next week - as I write this it's day 141 and we just got back from what was once the world's richest mine in Cerro Rico.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />But back to week 20. Today was a fairly lazy day - mostly errand running - laundry, bit of internet, etc. Not too much else. Had dinner at a fancy "French" restaurant - El Loco (I'm guessing a play on the words for crazy and locomotive) - where they do serve some amazing cuts of llama. The nice thing is for us gringos, everywhere is quite affordable - even fancy places are only around $6-7 for an entree, while local places are around $1.50-$2. Still not as easy in a country where a good deal of the population is living on under $2/day but so far we haven't experienced any problems.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />About Loco - Uyuni has a "train theme" - a bit of a rail hub here in the desert with lines running to Chile, north to Oruru (and in former times to La Paz I'm guessing), as well as a freight line to Potosi which I think is still active, although we will see some abandoned rail cuts on our way out of town later this week (but Potosi and vicinity do have functioning trains which allegedly connect to Chile).</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Anyway, if you're here, check out the rail graveyard - walking distance from town and an interesting monument to the former glory of steam. Neat place to take pictures and while away an afternoon which we did today.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Not too much else to report on today.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Day 135 - </div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Today I think I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. [too bad I can't edit this properly at the moment, so see above]</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>[OK, The 4 of us headed back to the Salar for a photo session. Beyond that we had a great local dinner with lots of meat and then some local hamburgesas - an all-in-one sandwich with bread, meat, veggie-toppings (& ketchup/mayo), and french fries all served together in a napkin. Really good for around 3-4Bs ($0.50).]</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Day 136 -</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Dave decided he wouldn't mind another day off and I made use of the time for getting the bike ready and finally getting some more stuff online. Bolivia has surprisingly good internet connections, although I haven't been as lucking finding any WiFi. Anyway, not too much new today, just getting ready for our next leg to Potosi and the famous mines. It should be a beautiful road. Food was all local today, although I had to get a Minuteman T-shirt - just a bit surreal - bit of American history with a Uyuni, Bolivia dateline.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Day 137 - to 60km from Uyuni - 60.2km, 11.7av 44.0mx, 782m, 5:10 to 19956km, 3850m (127.5km alt), 20.2916S, 66.4601W<br />After 4 days of stuffing myself on an eclectic mix of local offerings, today is finally the day to leave Uyuni behind and head for Potosi. Both Dave and J-W are feeling better - J-W & G left for Potosi yesterday and we're playing catch-up.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />So this morning it was time to say good-bye to the fine folks at Minuteman Pizza with another order of their fine Minuteman Pancakes (apple, banana, cinnamon salsa). Mmmm. Will miss those for another month or two.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />After filling up on what must be subsidized gasoline - at around 50cents/liter (Uyuni has no less than 3 gas stations - one in each direction out of town), it was time to attack the pass.<br />Immediately the road begins to climb and climb. As usual, it starts ok and gets steeper, but this one keeps getting steeper. A few km out of town, we cross paths with Jean-Luc - a Frenchman on a recumbent bicycle - first one we've seen down here. He's touring Bolivia for a few weeks and met up with J-W and G last night.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />We're on Bolivia's Ruta 5 - an unpaved affair, but generally a whole lot better than any Bolivian roads encountered on the Altiplano (save for that sweet, sweet descent a few days ago).<br />Ruta 5 changes every few meters from kinda paved and quite smooth to gravel to washboard and occasionally to sand, but it's generally quite decent - like better parts of the Carretera Australe.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Except for the grades. Those get quite silly. We end up pushing in sections despite a quite decent tailwind which accompanies us all day long.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />The first climb is about 300m, followed by a brief respite, and then another 275m or so, and that's almost it for the day. Once at the summit around 4200m, you get to turn around and see the salar just opening up to you - visible beyond the ridge of the first climb in all westerly directions. Our final view of this amazing spectable. Even the salt hotel and island are visible as specks in the white distance.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />And then you descend. Quite a reasonable descent, in fact. Not as steep as the climb up. The first town is Pulacayo. This was quite a rich mining town about 100years ago, still has a big steam-engine yard complete with turntable - now fallen into disuse. Although the steam engines look fairly well preserved - much better than what's on offer in Uyuni's graveyard.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Of course, my view is only for an instant. Pulacayo isn't the friendliest place. There's a guard shack before you get to town, although that's just a brief formality. Then all the mining operations come into view, although the main road to Potosi heads into the valley and a side road leads to town.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />We go to check it out but there's a gate and another guard and we ask about taking a few pictures and he tells us to go to the tourist info office for permission. Doesn't really look open - is it? He doesn't know - i.e. stop bothering me.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />So we head out again and I walk along the wall to at least get a few pictures in, although nothing close-up of the steam engines.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Apparently, our friends stayed here, although we're at a bit of a loss as to where.<br />Anyway, we decide to head out of town, into the valley, and have lunch at the first place out of the wind. Then it's time for our final climb - this one's a bit under 200m, but still plenty steep, and finally, more desert scenery, llamas, fun descents, the occasional habitation, and just a really nice cycling day.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />We should be near Agua Castilla, although I don't think we've seen it yet. We make 60km, not totally great, but not too bad on a somewhat late start and with pretty significant climbs on variable quality roads. So tonight finds us camping rough near some kind of ruined adobe structure - mostly out of the wind which continues to blow. Temps are noticably warmer than on the Altiplano or Salar which is nice - feels like it may only get a bit below freezing tonight.<br />A welcome respite. My hands are just raw and blistered from all this cold and wind and sun. Finally got some cream at a pharmacy - hopefully it will help.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Well, time to turn in and maybe read a few more pages in the Brother's Karamazov...</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Day 138 - to a canyon along the road - 64.5km, 13.0av, 44.5mx, 761m, 4:55 to 20020km, 128.2km alt, 19.9536S, 66.1738W, 3661m</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Today went almost as well as possible. Last night was probably the warmest in quite some time - nothing froze including myself.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />This morning starts out with a nice early sunrise around 7:15am. I still struggle with an early start, but by around 9:30 we're on the road again.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />The first 25-odd km go really well. It's a gradual downhill to Tica Tica and while not paved, the roads are generally quite good. We generally are around 20km/h, occasionally a bit more.<br />Tica Tica is a fairly small village, but still has at least 2 places to eat and quite a few shops - I'm guessing a place or 2 to sleep as well although we don't investigate this.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />We do investigate lunch at 8-Hermanos (brothers): for 10Bolivianos (around $1.40), you get a decent bowl of soup, chicken, rice, potatoes, and a bit of garnish. Definitely beats the planned lunch of bread and dulce-de-leche - a bread topping which for all intents and purposes is caramel.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />So that goes well. On the way out, I feel like the pied piper - a half-dozen or so kids start to congregate around our bikes and when I give out some candy it kinda mushrooms. Unfortunately we are still looking for bread at this point and basically have an entourage to accompany us wherever we go on our bread-quest. We eventually get lucky at the fourth or fifth place - another diner which sells hamburgesas and could part with a few buns - more like rolls, anyway. One kid actually runs after us for maybe 500m out of town.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />So that goes reasonably well. Of course, no day is perfect. My vinegar continued to leak - at least I get another decent salad out of it before final disposal. Also have a flat on a really dusty stretch of road - for the 2nd time, my extremely durable Schwalbe tires cause a flat due to internal delamination. Still, hit 20000km today - not bad considering 10000km was only in November (fairly meaningless milestones - 20k since I mounted this bike computer back in Feb '06, I wish I had one for the lifetime of the bike - it should be around 110-120000km by now). For the trip I'm at 6500 making this a helluva pair of tires.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />After Tica Tica things get much more challenging - the road isn't quite as good, but still decent, and it's time for today's pass - a 500m affair - with the flat it'll take us some time. But the scenery is majestic. It looks like Bolivia is slowly upgrading its roads - there are crews out in several locations today and a lot of grading and measuring seems to be going on. No sign of asphalt, but you can build fairly decent gravel roads, too.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />And upon reaching 4050m or so, it's time for another descent. This one is a bit too steep to really enjoy - a lot of braking. But the views are amazing - lots of folded mountain ranges.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />The road keeps going down and down and down - to around 3450m or so and the next town - probably Visicia, but signs are scant and my map places towns in the wrong location now and then. If you come this way, make a nearly 180 turn when you see the bridge over the river - that's the route to Potosi. There are no signs, but we eventually asked.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />And then it's back uphill again. It's getting late so we only make another 15km or so and climb perhaps 200m as we gradually leave this valley. There are still quite a few hills and about 80km to Potosi - hopefully tomorrow...</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Day 139 - </div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Still doing my best to stay "live" with the reports. At least staying "alive" is a bit less challenging lately - for whatever reason, the nights haven't been so cold since we left Uyuni. Tonight is our 3rd night on the way to Potosi - unfortunately we didn't quite make it today. Only about 20km to go as we camp here just off the road again. A different kind of canyon tonight - much grander view with the freight train line to Potosi nearby. Enjoying another camp cooked meal under an amazing starry sky.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Today went fairly well. The scenery has been fantastic. We're finally very slowly leaving the high desert and returning to slightly greener surroundings. Even had to ford a pretty decent sized stream this morning - we both stopped short like a horse that doesn't want to jump a barricade and had a closer look. Dave threw a rock in and it didn't look too deep (maybe 20cm) so I decided to go for it and he followed without incident.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />After breaking camp at a reasonably early hour (just after 9am), we continue with the climb we interrupted yesterday. Another 100m or so of vertical and we're on another plain (which included the ford above). Shortly thereafter we make the next town of - well no And then another up to over 4000m again, followed by another descent into a surprisingly narrow canyon. Lunch consists of bread, dulce-de-leche, and a constant pelting of sand and dust under the gaze of dozens of llamas in a scenic canyon.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Dave seems ready to throw in the towel - just isn't enjoying the endless gravel road with constant ups and downs. In the end, it's becoming clear we won't make Potosi today - bit of a shame but these trips rarely go as planned and this stretch usually takes 4 days anyway.<br />We continue up and out of the canyon and up and up some more. Eventually we make Aguas Castillas - which is odd since by my map we made it a few days back already. Oh well - there are barely any signs anywhere anyway, anyone could make this mistake. Dave's ready for a nice bed - only "Pension" here doesn't mean a place to stay (unlike in German) - just a place to eat. She sends us down the hill and further into town, and the next person even further down to the main plaza. Once there, we're informed there aren't actually any places to stay in town - but in the next town, Polco?, 4km away and down and up more hills (on my map, the town we're in should be Polco, but who am I arguing with). Unfortunately, we'll be coming back this way and up again to head for Potosi which changes Dave's mind.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />So we U-turn and continue up and up to around 4200m again with amazing canyons in all directions. And another descent - this one would be the final one for today - again about 20km out of town.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Roads, I thought, we're pretty decent today. There is road construction going on all over down here - probably well over half the vehicles encountered today were somehow engaged in it. Makes cycling more challenging and a lot more dusty, but again, roads vary a lot from smooth to washboard to sand, but a lot better than the stuff before Uyuni. Grades were probably no more than 8% and generally under 5.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Day 140 - Potosi, finally</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Well, only a day late, but today we finally rolled into town. Actually those last 25km or so are really quite challenging - the hilliest of the entire stretch and you approach town from the bottom. It's pretty much strewn across a few hillsides including the famous Cerro Rico - "Rich Mountain" - source of Potosi's fame. It was actually founded here after silver was discovered in the mid 16th century. Lots of amazing colonial architecture jumbled together with toxic waste from mine tailings and a few slums. Besides the mountain, a kind of space-needle restaurant sticks out as you approach the city, but eventually you find your way to the colonial quarter and it is really quite spectacular. All 4 of us seem to agree that this is one of the most agreeable cities we've visited on this trip so far. Quite a few nice alleys to walk along.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />But first the ride - we awake to another sunny day - what else. We're really getting spoiled on this trip - I think the last hint of rain was probably around Tucuman and the last real rain while cycling would have been in Punta Arenas (there was the rainy hiking day in Ushuaia and more rain around Iguazu, but the trip has been amazingly dry as a whole). We immediately hit the grades - about 250m up again, then up and down pretty much the whole way to Potosi. By the end of the day we're over 700m again in only around 25km - that's a lot.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />The road is mostly under construction and is pretty much of similar quality to the rest of the stretch from Uyuni - a mix of everything and lots of construction vehicles. Once you make town, glorious pavement returns, and just in time as the grades in town get amazingly steep - probably up to around 15%. We end up cycling up most of the hillside and find a little diner selling the more-or-less standard 10Bs lunch of soup and a main course (llama on rice & potatoes in this case). From there we continue to the colonial center, find a fairly useless tourist info booth, and eventually follow our Lonely Planet guide to the Koala's Den hostel which I assume is somehow Aussie affiliated. Really nice place - a bit higher than others at 40Bs a night ($6.50), but has a good breakfast, hot showers, and even internet access sans WiFi [note if you´re heading this way - Dave had a price misunderstanding so it came to 70Bs a night, still ok although less of a deal for Bolivia].</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />We hit the Casa de Moneda in the afternoon - the old colonial mint where coins were still pressed up to around 1950 - although another sign of the place, today coins are imported from Europe and Canada, as are bills. The country with the richest silver mine of all times finds itself with no refining ability - originally pure silver was mined and minted here, but now there's only ore left which is concentrated in Potosi with a toxic coctail of among other things cyanide (& possibly mercury, at least they used to use it) disposed of in local streams, and the resulting concentrate is shipped to Chile for smelting and refining. Rather sad, especially when you see what people go through to mine it (that's tomorrow).</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Today we just get to see what was the former glory of town with all the various implements used to make coinage over the last 250 years or so, along with an eclectic mix of aretefacts, paintings, etc. One neat one is an anonymous work mixing Catholic beliefs with older Inca/Quecha religions - it's called the Virgin of the Mountain and depicts Cerro Rico with the Virgin Mary as the mountain and also as Panchamama or Mother Earth with the Trinity above, the papacy and Imperial Spain below, and sun and moon left and right (a sorta Inca Trinity - sun, moon, and mother earth as Mary).</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />As we're heading in, Jan-Willem and Gudrun are heading out so we meet again - they got an earlier tour (the museum is by guided tour only - our guide seems most anxious to get out on time and tends to forcefully escort us from room to room).</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Well, we just wander around a bit, have the biggest meat platter I've ever had for dinner (most expensive thing on the menu too, at 35Bs / $7), and just have a content evening.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-46010773946116706972008-05-26T20:07:00.000-07:002008-06-06T12:54:18.495-07:00Week 19 - SW Bolivia and the Salar de Uyuni<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvbDENTmYL7vgptU6ZeomFkCbZ1ozz1DZdLglzPn0paZkkuJzmTHbuUVgHl-QhbrddKLsc5IBSGXZwp4Msq4D4sr31mjm7H_xJwz1H0o8xJ-m9ApqSz2wanicXjiYLTlmdhtlnVg4swebx/s1600-h/127-1+-+Thermals+at+dawn.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208853644298183602" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvbDENTmYL7vgptU6ZeomFkCbZ1ozz1DZdLglzPn0paZkkuJzmTHbuUVgHl-QhbrddKLsc5IBSGXZwp4Msq4D4sr31mjm7H_xJwz1H0o8xJ-m9ApqSz2wanicXjiYLTlmdhtlnVg4swebx/s400/127-1+-+Thermals+at+dawn.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Week 19 - finally have all the stills up here, too. This is Thermas Polques at dawn - day 127<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9-LMpyyyS5VM0OUfLTkcDozEKkMCXw92BshNNyjSTQ9V8ojzw0ojVuMMN7oyotLR0wBWO6aktKPsfZl44jH4_oVqRXOK3ABTET5Srcq-T55LmVBn4DT7lvNd82oYrgNoeesuWX4n1a9m9/s1600-h/127-2+-+Morning+dip+in+Thermals.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208853644298183618" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9-LMpyyyS5VM0OUfLTkcDozEKkMCXw92BshNNyjSTQ9V8ojzw0ojVuMMN7oyotLR0wBWO6aktKPsfZl44jH4_oVqRXOK3ABTET5Srcq-T55LmVBn4DT7lvNd82oYrgNoeesuWX4n1a9m9/s400/127-2+-+Morning+dip+in+Thermals.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />With the first brave - well not really - bathers - around 7am or so and probably -10C <div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzSdz_ULq8raDm5bf-dV4yAU2OF3XM9Rcbv2fB4TA5zE2E7TQpUvsCVh2c39KltYAZIRCpe_2y7ksd7UDjpDytVY-2Lotr_rUIzjh8KFQMYGzBhNm959O229I1Naj3F9piV6gsFKq-O6Dt/s1600-h/127-3+-+Poor+Dave.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208853146081977186" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzSdz_ULq8raDm5bf-dV4yAU2OF3XM9Rcbv2fB4TA5zE2E7TQpUvsCVh2c39KltYAZIRCpe_2y7ksd7UDjpDytVY-2Lotr_rUIzjh8KFQMYGzBhNm959O229I1Naj3F9piV6gsFKq-O6Dt/s400/127-3+-+Poor+Dave.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Dave's down for the count<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhitVC_kTif76m_yjAIXMdQ2Y8NfbKByCePhPYSjlFzET6Y_hX6Dy0EMJPNAkA8GCNW82fCwS2OiwglTyrwQBLWAysDvewpITNPlcW3uSBz1gZxfZpn0aJk9LCuWj9LrU9cQHhXuBIK24R4/s1600-h/127-4+-+Climbing+to+Pass.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208853150376944498" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhitVC_kTif76m_yjAIXMdQ2Y8NfbKByCePhPYSjlFzET6Y_hX6Dy0EMJPNAkA8GCNW82fCwS2OiwglTyrwQBLWAysDvewpITNPlcW3uSBz1gZxfZpn0aJk9LCuWj9LrU9cQHhXuBIK24R4/s400/127-4+-+Climbing+to+Pass.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Heading up to the highest bicycle climb of the trip (about 4950m, 16000ft)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZy8nJE_amUOwgkFheTDCx2kZl6XCmc-qvz5FLp-eV-cv-cIWdDRmM9kIfnChRMeGtQdCUgj1M67cAMu57mIjild2qBZvajUnTxNWPJJyP9GNhzgcNOtSG2HWZhqGDLRDEsWBg31vPzVO/s1600-h/127-5+-+Dropping+to+Colorada.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208853154671911810" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZy8nJE_amUOwgkFheTDCx2kZl6XCmc-qvz5FLp-eV-cv-cIWdDRmM9kIfnChRMeGtQdCUgj1M67cAMu57mIjild2qBZvajUnTxNWPJJyP9GNhzgcNOtSG2HWZhqGDLRDEsWBg31vPzVO/s400/127-5+-+Dropping+to+Colorada.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Laguna Colorada in the distance<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOTVAsta3reTXFKMxEkUHjEulFzaMVsz4vz1x7OMwXoICBSJOMSXm1LyZ-f4xetQJtfUB1mIqHOKGAvZevQCxbmI15WXGwPn2INc6joXjcLiMIH634D4LehUa01ZimsO4Wybxqphlftvvu/s1600-h/128-1+-+Morning+Routine.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208853154671911826" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOTVAsta3reTXFKMxEkUHjEulFzaMVsz4vz1x7OMwXoICBSJOMSXm1LyZ-f4xetQJtfUB1mIqHOKGAvZevQCxbmI15WXGwPn2INc6joXjcLiMIH634D4LehUa01ZimsO4Wybxqphlftvvu/s400/128-1+-+Morning+Routine.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Gudrun and morning routine<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6k15bmkurvR8CmD-DcXbFLor4RJag9JysvqNsS-OO27C3r8Jr7Wl29rtWFMowg6TGF0JewaurWqHO56GtxqnlP3tSgUTC7kKTzbgCUlZKES5CDW0weYEPWlKEUjgRhmNRwJDQLynLaLhX/s1600-h/128-2+-+J-W+turn.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208853158966879138" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6k15bmkurvR8CmD-DcXbFLor4RJag9JysvqNsS-OO27C3r8Jr7Wl29rtWFMowg6TGF0JewaurWqHO56GtxqnlP3tSgUTC7kKTzbgCUlZKES5CDW0weYEPWlKEUjgRhmNRwJDQLynLaLhX/s400/128-2+-+J-W+turn.JPG" border="0" /></a> - day 128<br /><br /><div>Jan-Willem's turn - last group picture until Uyuni<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUIzEy-8E5PXcwbeAUYZl0xFmbaj3dlraIu36afGJXgQBROHiAjv8uR4ezTK7nMjaUjWZflCOUSEAqW60esJ9p84C_FoucF0z2fkDo5QQK0_P_b0dFoXn6XALZR6BY7x9IpPJQksecE0ha/s1600-h/128-3+-+Colorada+Reflection.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208852068045185810" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUIzEy-8E5PXcwbeAUYZl0xFmbaj3dlraIu36afGJXgQBROHiAjv8uR4ezTK7nMjaUjWZflCOUSEAqW60esJ9p84C_FoucF0z2fkDo5QQK0_P_b0dFoXn6XALZR6BY7x9IpPJQksecE0ha/s400/128-3+-+Colorada+Reflection.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Red Laguna Colorada up close<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilYD1wCYiXY0J9j4S_W72MvniREHZrPvluaihjpsvsWE7ffTceOPWnMAnzBw36OQ9RWgdfndmjZ3-d_fflniB7qf1kTR3z11pW7MOY43ct8GQAS5rkeKLyFPcybte3SIQoOxky1VBMCYWd/s1600-h/128-4+-+Pick+a+Route.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208852072340153122" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilYD1wCYiXY0J9j4S_W72MvniREHZrPvluaihjpsvsWE7ffTceOPWnMAnzBw36OQ9RWgdfndmjZ3-d_fflniB7qf1kTR3z11pW7MOY43ct8GQAS5rkeKLyFPcybte3SIQoOxky1VBMCYWd/s400/128-4+-+Pick+a+Route.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Pick a road - leaving the NP on 128<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwiKD4S5Vmyl7c3Ad5lbNCAola18dRlRILcJfRQ9hFB3TQk0clshQe057KKjnblHdGoBvJ297UVBHHj8ug81x5L-sGcgcRFJNL373gOhGA8QkjOjr42U3YIKNhwCGmaWKWsZByDpj26kd5/s1600-h/129-1+-+Piedras+del+Arbol.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208852072340153138" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwiKD4S5Vmyl7c3Ad5lbNCAola18dRlRILcJfRQ9hFB3TQk0clshQe057KKjnblHdGoBvJ297UVBHHj8ug81x5L-sGcgcRFJNL373gOhGA8QkjOjr42U3YIKNhwCGmaWKWsZByDpj26kd5/s400/129-1+-+Piedras+del+Arbol.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Piedras del Arbol - day 129<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl_UtQNdivClvi_rTiDvFKRXFL54_uzrXBh7EzF2sGTsScjU5UrwOeDClsirqGvy-emj1VJbc2zd7Bnz7KVBZyYOuz0Nllajs_Ssc3-niF2b001twrkqJlH-5GJGFAA7ahOQL2k16Z0dFi/s1600-h/129-2+-+Mmmm+shag.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208852072340153154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl_UtQNdivClvi_rTiDvFKRXFL54_uzrXBh7EzF2sGTsScjU5UrwOeDClsirqGvy-emj1VJbc2zd7Bnz7KVBZyYOuz0Nllajs_Ssc3-niF2b001twrkqJlH-5GJGFAA7ahOQL2k16Z0dFi/s400/129-2+-+Mmmm+shag.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Like the shag green rock<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI0P0kJFqodBTK68uH_xG4K4sWr3M8AZYCT5VodsgkQADT-FukluiMm7RA9zuAz9NdXNFHYp6vJZSmpiaNaa72STauTKpNkJsrJhb6KpR0c-mln1cgGgYaOwatsvT2eWhzaCPeRDuzD14e/s1600-h/129-3+-+Lots+of+Choices+-+all+bad.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208852076635120466" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI0P0kJFqodBTK68uH_xG4K4sWr3M8AZYCT5VodsgkQADT-FukluiMm7RA9zuAz9NdXNFHYp6vJZSmpiaNaa72STauTKpNkJsrJhb6KpR0c-mln1cgGgYaOwatsvT2eWhzaCPeRDuzD14e/s400/129-3+-+Lots+of+Choices+-+all+bad.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div>Pick one - they´re all bad<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbmvjWweyG6wSbmhqFuBBaLRmBTeoJoWGreBufemyQGPKH7vM_SVI0zzgiveyhbR8Nag9-Yff3VblRvedYzI-4kwQESjhM2GScLMlo37-iyMHMgK2bDKZnghcKHl-k_NjrlJnNcA0I16PN/s1600-h/129-4+-+Dusk+Full+Moon.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208850277043823298" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbmvjWweyG6wSbmhqFuBBaLRmBTeoJoWGreBufemyQGPKH7vM_SVI0zzgiveyhbR8Nag9-Yff3VblRvedYzI-4kwQESjhM2GScLMlo37-iyMHMgK2bDKZnghcKHl-k_NjrlJnNcA0I16PN/s400/129-4+-+Dusk+Full+Moon.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Like this shot.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJyJ0YDKhsaD-SC1nhVQ7fgtOepkbL_6cWYo5WAzSlqotPlmU_CrYCL0Ntg9a0qj4KDwHqo_kw4CSP4B2xde8wXBU6J-yzCh4QbvWKHRlYgjkhY8wRaXRFz1FqtIVTWI7L7Tm_TevWbQRY/s1600-h/130-1+-+The+Ecolodge.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208850277043823314" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJyJ0YDKhsaD-SC1nhVQ7fgtOepkbL_6cWYo5WAzSlqotPlmU_CrYCL0Ntg9a0qj4KDwHqo_kw4CSP4B2xde8wXBU6J-yzCh4QbvWKHRlYgjkhY8wRaXRFz1FqtIVTWI7L7Tm_TevWbQRY/s400/130-1+-+The+Ecolodge.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Ecohotel - day 130<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaUYtuB8wfVDxWyQDaZYJ6qqHlTgp58Rn-5DMvnm6rQv87jS2TKnpIQwxdwU3kkQtRsCfHz0cMYmC8MyrjVToMRGr25o_kX7omtoEoNxArpOhU0W796U3OUBp1WbHro6SnhVfrEzN_uZqy/s1600-h/130-2+-+More+Flamingos.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208850281338790626" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaUYtuB8wfVDxWyQDaZYJ6qqHlTgp58Rn-5DMvnm6rQv87jS2TKnpIQwxdwU3kkQtRsCfHz0cMYmC8MyrjVToMRGr25o_kX7omtoEoNxArpOhU0W796U3OUBp1WbHro6SnhVfrEzN_uZqy/s400/130-2+-+More+Flamingos.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Flamigoes near the ecohotel<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEJwNc3d6-joS1HQ6IkGbHALnw9U4bKobwprlUaiovrnP636JcBy0LGOaENlY0_IKarF_ungXzaDfuTam7dvOK3vM_xFBUoShmSzVucMh8g5-Q8PEnmLG7rTo3oaHT5OZnganqnYBwg0Wk/s1600-h/130-3+-+Hi+Friendly+Fox.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208850285633757938" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEJwNc3d6-joS1HQ6IkGbHALnw9U4bKobwprlUaiovrnP636JcBy0LGOaENlY0_IKarF_ungXzaDfuTam7dvOK3vM_xFBUoShmSzVucMh8g5-Q8PEnmLG7rTo3oaHT5OZnganqnYBwg0Wk/s400/130-3+-+Hi+Friendly+Fox.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Hi there cute little fox - no - no - go away - aaaahhhhhhh (ok this will make more sense when you read the blog below)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoSSA-9CO9ogQ_TonMdx1LgcQOIM7YSvqqgLffh5nEZTY-740_lUbX7dLxvxmNKftp6cWszl2VMvku5rS4MzB9UYRljutQ2Q7Tn1Jk7QNB3h_9p5loFplyvINKqJbbJxM2HsIAJU_Sju1M/s1600-h/130-4+-+Hard+Road.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208850289928725250" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoSSA-9CO9ogQ_TonMdx1LgcQOIM7YSvqqgLffh5nEZTY-740_lUbX7dLxvxmNKftp6cWszl2VMvku5rS4MzB9UYRljutQ2Q7Tn1Jk7QNB3h_9p5loFplyvINKqJbbJxM2HsIAJU_Sju1M/s400/130-4+-+Hard+Road.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Really bad road - 130<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZ-NBNjYv3K5uovce9YUf_MokLT5jOZnxtxo7nGjuE8Hi_3PiFYsRklLPjWEp8TjwkQRZbWJdk6gIUQOVpvBoqV4pxUkgY_vMNZjTXDvKe0Rvbr7zr9cYRrE5we9ABI57ooKvdCEbcVKX/s1600-h/130-5+-+Evening+Camp.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208544066133814514" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZ-NBNjYv3K5uovce9YUf_MokLT5jOZnxtxo7nGjuE8Hi_3PiFYsRklLPjWEp8TjwkQRZbWJdk6gIUQOVpvBoqV4pxUkgY_vMNZjTXDvKe0Rvbr7zr9cYRrE5we9ABI57ooKvdCEbcVKX/s400/130-5+-+Evening+Camp.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />First of many night shots this week<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3wxKXzqbHzkflMrbhLMQe6QiLDu7-tPgGJpIeuMasbC-jLg7_wmfTFCf7mS61HQVtOLgw4T4odxeR8FHPFwlQBlKV7SfwIvjRYBMsfn7e8vAtI8GrqCpIMUF8ssv4e7oBAfsRrpW6c69I/s1600-h/131-1+-+Smoking+Ollargue.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208544070428781826" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3wxKXzqbHzkflMrbhLMQe6QiLDu7-tPgGJpIeuMasbC-jLg7_wmfTFCf7mS61HQVtOLgw4T4odxeR8FHPFwlQBlKV7SfwIvjRYBMsfn7e8vAtI8GrqCpIMUF8ssv4e7oBAfsRrpW6c69I/s400/131-1+-+Smoking+Ollargue.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Smoking Allargue - day 131<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLrlqVrM7GHoXr_O1bgJ8Zohf-gOS4tU6KxySRpPHrfGTgz3Yp_ErDdi16T4vyqO_7b0fENUnJgiHyDu2i9YlrhksRW7H-cjhNyZJehkfq1TjQ52N0LSv8fIZDI87E0B1Hm9VjO0xunxiu/s1600-h/131-2+-+Decision+Point.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208544074723749138" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLrlqVrM7GHoXr_O1bgJ8Zohf-gOS4tU6KxySRpPHrfGTgz3Yp_ErDdi16T4vyqO_7b0fENUnJgiHyDu2i9YlrhksRW7H-cjhNyZJehkfq1TjQ52N0LSv8fIZDI87E0B1Hm9VjO0xunxiu/s400/131-2+-+Decision+Point.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Decision time - easy or hard, I picked easy<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_fCVNo9qYiWuzaeozlQYE7TLtvmI2Re14QPn0z8tAu4yPBEnWt7PZ2QGX1Rcl-Q8doWIA3K19qItSi1sOrFG7Gn0nJmKxrMCvztxHf5lct7HM4yGNlN42ROQ0M-3r63j2dN-ZPQUSak3o/s1600-h/131-3+-+Border+Train.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208544074723749154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_fCVNo9qYiWuzaeozlQYE7TLtvmI2Re14QPn0z8tAu4yPBEnWt7PZ2QGX1Rcl-Q8doWIA3K19qItSi1sOrFG7Gn0nJmKxrMCvztxHf5lct7HM4yGNlN42ROQ0M-3r63j2dN-ZPQUSak3o/s400/131-3+-+Border+Train.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Uyuni - Chile rail line - people were living in these yellow-blue cars<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7MIc3W_Qi1bdLgi0Ur5GIxC4dztnBv7brmyEH6sgFFQshxr_G83dsyvgxgnILeB3iAH9uY4ZeCrjUvNWcnTvYGcntuqmgcVgfCL057k6gweCdLYd_IVvSKX1RRC7Z4WL0LORsJtGqnxX/s1600-h/131-4+-+Train+and+Volcano.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208544079018716466" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7MIc3W_Qi1bdLgi0Ur5GIxC4dztnBv7brmyEH6sgFFQshxr_G83dsyvgxgnILeB3iAH9uY4ZeCrjUvNWcnTvYGcntuqmgcVgfCL057k6gweCdLYd_IVvSKX1RRC7Z4WL0LORsJtGqnxX/s400/131-4+-+Train+and+Volcano.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>An actual train, probably the first outside of Buenos Aires<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4CI_LOWBYWGvtPThvscPxCYjOMEpIfkWReQR7M1QcU5uvbOlaHfo9uQmHyPVr0yaDovVMz7AjhlAqV5Ta3H6l_sYFBuBAE5_3aw3L47iruSibO8SXqOzx3SId5nR-XdtJxOwMEf5T-q2c/s1600-h/131-5+-+Colcha+K+is+not+this+way.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208543520672967842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4CI_LOWBYWGvtPThvscPxCYjOMEpIfkWReQR7M1QcU5uvbOlaHfo9uQmHyPVr0yaDovVMz7AjhlAqV5Ta3H6l_sYFBuBAE5_3aw3L47iruSibO8SXqOzx3SId5nR-XdtJxOwMEf5T-q2c/s400/131-5+-+Colcha+K+is+not+this+way.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Colcha K is no here, really like the thermal inversion on this shot<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBSWxNPArwxXE74M_GfI9wJk2AmQo8NxNp-GFgpXFrgpMH1mgIgM9lEuW9o0VZoEtCqWtMt5fXOIFIHEQK4H0LIMHai1ytrgMf8hEEmK1TWYOnsKy-h1rt5Ike23E8EdKePGKFHdYW7cnb/s1600-h/132-1+-+Necropolis+1.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208543520672967858" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBSWxNPArwxXE74M_GfI9wJk2AmQo8NxNp-GFgpXFrgpMH1mgIgM9lEuW9o0VZoEtCqWtMt5fXOIFIHEQK4H0LIMHai1ytrgMf8hEEmK1TWYOnsKy-h1rt5Ike23E8EdKePGKFHdYW7cnb/s400/132-1+-+Necropolis+1.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Lipez Necropolis near San Juan - Day 132<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJJGtGH4-p9s-tAkLOb5LYpSkjSrlWthnxiaafptLDrEafCdP_QLhLvDATAmTdE3kf6HdVyG64GmH6zcX9WMit-ypsGzbtvLO396-hwDtNkmdmGk9SDR0GvYe3utPPn-vCeoobgY5wKLv/s1600-h/132-2+-+Necropolis+2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208543524967935170" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJJGtGH4-p9s-tAkLOb5LYpSkjSrlWthnxiaafptLDrEafCdP_QLhLvDATAmTdE3kf6HdVyG64GmH6zcX9WMit-ypsGzbtvLO396-hwDtNkmdmGk9SDR0GvYe3utPPn-vCeoobgY5wKLv/s400/132-2+-+Necropolis+2.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Closeup of the above<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDLSA3aW1M_80_3fLgCIUeRYo-nP37CgZ0Z2ppe7berpur43EJW3Jo_hq0xU1s-GANcd8ck9L0f1WFzcVaiSU-OWjUp6jczUIhmZvkhKwJdLyzVmWLHg-ChU0p9CMHU1DnUhB4OCDSw0G2/s1600-h/132-3+-+San+Juan.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208543524967935186" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDLSA3aW1M_80_3fLgCIUeRYo-nP37CgZ0Z2ppe7berpur43EJW3Jo_hq0xU1s-GANcd8ck9L0f1WFzcVaiSU-OWjUp6jczUIhmZvkhKwJdLyzVmWLHg-ChU0p9CMHU1DnUhB4OCDSw0G2/s400/132-3+-+San+Juan.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Proud <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6TA0AQrfGYQ0i66S4DoUcvZUGP6C7BHyOOkR0tMO3n-mY1Wf_emiOxfDUExv6UI9IEKcAvCKoTQ-YyASQCE0qE7m800MQOCpEj8tNzgCe9-ymy-hap8qkhyphenhyphenPLacbOFgCU-GkemSQrkSh/s1600-h/132-4+-+Insane+Road.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208543529262902498" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6TA0AQrfGYQ0i66S4DoUcvZUGP6C7BHyOOkR0tMO3n-mY1Wf_emiOxfDUExv6UI9IEKcAvCKoTQ-YyASQCE0qE7m800MQOCpEj8tNzgCe9-ymy-hap8qkhyphenhyphenPLacbOFgCU-GkemSQrkSh/s400/132-4+-+Insane+Road.JPG" border="0" /></a> San Juan<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Worst road of the trip by far, this is washed out, later it turns to around 20% grade on sand and gravel<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6jKetSQSuAtOcdJK5mIE3zq45BNmK9JyA070D4eirkoxbKy45CZyZzubm75tjkmdTaM-SE3E6F_FTfkEpcNxZ7S0F6LgRaMc1VhCV6Cfc04M6cPAsWLW4u0yW6k4XdCd629lNA7H72Rv5/s1600-h/132-5+-+First+View+of+Salar.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208543048226565202" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6jKetSQSuAtOcdJK5mIE3zq45BNmK9JyA070D4eirkoxbKy45CZyZzubm75tjkmdTaM-SE3E6F_FTfkEpcNxZ7S0F6LgRaMc1VhCV6Cfc04M6cPAsWLW4u0yW6k4XdCd629lNA7H72Rv5/s400/132-5+-+First+View+of+Salar.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />But the view on the other side is nice - first view of the salar<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUAeaxbTq5SGSxOP3_r-SHWJ0HGfgOkAU51bYPpRRYsM2FVjeBsd-4PfXEBAbahqptKBzu-pu_58KnstKHOhJv-S-Ws3sASk3yjLcwyCISalW7H8cezpRhSXoDvWFSHRD29FTFjl428C9J/s1600-h/132-6+-+Colcha+K.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208543052521532514" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUAeaxbTq5SGSxOP3_r-SHWJ0HGfgOkAU51bYPpRRYsM2FVjeBsd-4PfXEBAbahqptKBzu-pu_58KnstKHOhJv-S-Ws3sASk3yjLcwyCISalW7H8cezpRhSXoDvWFSHRD29FTFjl428C9J/s400/132-6+-+Colcha+K.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Finally, Colcha K<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKLCqGH8Jtypg6wZM7VCtnc7iCzB7t3HnCI8MFd8ZEt0AdG4T0YKpMFUtkC4O3GbTVLh9dT8_q76niHlV_s1ryyyamsUoNLJLEjzT4DtVtoMubSIL6rTKCVAB42Pr2UJYcc4UaysxniyJu/s1600-h/132-7+-+Thermal+Distortions.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208543052521532530" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKLCqGH8Jtypg6wZM7VCtnc7iCzB7t3HnCI8MFd8ZEt0AdG4T0YKpMFUtkC4O3GbTVLh9dT8_q76niHlV_s1ryyyamsUoNLJLEjzT4DtVtoMubSIL6rTKCVAB42Pr2UJYcc4UaysxniyJu/s400/132-7+-+Thermal+Distortions.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />No, not stretched rocks, just thermal inversion. The salar (& a jeep)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpE9wF-M1RRXfd2L0YFnj7xRlb08IkAYjdynOnUgemM9ZuBG_eZpluXawqU2QIrFPvQ2bZo-ANtBtK7OrXfUXq2WvydGOAlRbvik6FDYTYpIJT-Hg1n2l6qqYDYt4YY0sNe28JQ7e9zyfF/s1600-h/132-8+-+Getting+Started.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208543056816499842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpE9wF-M1RRXfd2L0YFnj7xRlb08IkAYjdynOnUgemM9ZuBG_eZpluXawqU2QIrFPvQ2bZo-ANtBtK7OrXfUXq2WvydGOAlRbvik6FDYTYpIJT-Hg1n2l6qqYDYt4YY0sNe28JQ7e9zyfF/s400/132-8+-+Getting+Started.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Heading out to the salar<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIK74bAUSs2bCr7PpHHMpWfAloDt-f5bXcr5ZpIulBPN2HqzbZOrZ2zFXRqgeKzxjlnxwX-1kVmB-63Nj-U6KCnmdkZicGbI7LmcKRTzKE_kkWXwfS6CoUF6zFRvkvStTHlu7SjInSYwc-/s1600-h/132-9+-+The+Dam+looking+back.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208543056816499858" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIK74bAUSs2bCr7PpHHMpWfAloDt-f5bXcr5ZpIulBPN2HqzbZOrZ2zFXRqgeKzxjlnxwX-1kVmB-63Nj-U6KCnmdkZicGbI7LmcKRTzKE_kkWXwfS6CoUF6zFRvkvStTHlu7SjInSYwc-/s400/132-9+-+The+Dam+looking+back.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Looking back at land, on the dam<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuxjjKFEcN1Knnaojy5mGZGaATa-hNxjXK5as3QExNa4zLYwzPEVfV4VQH-xRFmj82AxiU6PFYiFKlsN-7t_NMu8BiBDNmkSbllzKvo06oLjbDWWKywcXIB-vnQ3SLxf4TS9hZo9SUWjOV/s1600-h/132-10+-+Cold+Camp.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208542309492190210" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuxjjKFEcN1Knnaojy5mGZGaATa-hNxjXK5as3QExNa4zLYwzPEVfV4VQH-xRFmj82AxiU6PFYiFKlsN-7t_NMu8BiBDNmkSbllzKvo06oLjbDWWKywcXIB-vnQ3SLxf4TS9hZo9SUWjOV/s400/132-10+-+Cold+Camp.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />I like this shot - night camp<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6FYIIU2mp8SQ2lvMHzkbhJ5vIZr2ApsRV-sboqPv0AOqPO2Rdz19SzYqFTTSfR8H5jhWMpXqivJaFAK1B7NBjGpjEVRkebLPDhfeOd67RigeOdlhq9NyPDY7J3je3x9pEkW61XenlTxF/s1600-h/132-11+-+Island+and+Big+Dipper.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208542313787157522" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6FYIIU2mp8SQ2lvMHzkbhJ5vIZr2ApsRV-sboqPv0AOqPO2Rdz19SzYqFTTSfR8H5jhWMpXqivJaFAK1B7NBjGpjEVRkebLPDhfeOd67RigeOdlhq9NyPDY7J3je3x9pEkW61XenlTxF/s400/132-11+-+Island+and+Big+Dipper.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />354º</div><div> </div><div> </div><div>[Try blowing this one up (click on it), you shou<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWLhs6pN_SgrNAf04NHJsor9EeMrasiiLfB0xqgw_hHrCAGJb-s_37HBRucD9QEKWqHTjhGBgko-pmJ3vevdjC5xg2PD0C_xCNgsiNFvLIav2CMDF87NC3Cz5CS62KxsLBl_8TXI9tF5Eq/s1600-h/132-12+-+Another+Night+Shot.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208542313787157538" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWLhs6pN_SgrNAf04NHJsor9EeMrasiiLfB0xqgw_hHrCAGJb-s_37HBRucD9QEKWqHTjhGBgko-pmJ3vevdjC5xg2PD0C_xCNgsiNFvLIav2CMDF87NC3Cz5CS62KxsLBl_8TXI9tF5Eq/s400/132-12+-+Another+Night+Shot.JPG" border="0" /></a>ld see the Big Dipper]<br />Another camp shot, left my light flashing to warn stray jeeps<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jNSrL9638iARAMsCipDKZO4-pbmxR8zIQ5Gvu9ilZHTr9injdHQ7yEivYY55SgvchW_8wIJH5-rGLxn4IJJd0JQBxuSS6gePtciIh8GH2ZdzwNKeKhk59PN2V1uINqqSAzarvOJn4_MZ/s1600-h/132-13+-+Final+Night+Shot.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208542318082124850" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jNSrL9638iARAMsCipDKZO4-pbmxR8zIQ5Gvu9ilZHTr9injdHQ7yEivYY55SgvchW_8wIJH5-rGLxn4IJJd0JQBxuSS6gePtciIh8GH2ZdzwNKeKhk59PN2V1uINqqSAzarvOJn4_MZ/s400/132-13+-+Final+Night+Shot.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Final night shot<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwV7SPmcy7bdlAGAV8N-Elhny54E51XbXhHhwu6C8wep-YZCdt9gCqcO3Y7EjelgA1xAZB946uE5mRg0qvMnJQAkQFAUbAxfyGOD63gD9zWGGlsqoqZHTf1wTISaFsL5v2tMWEEZZEbSbL/s1600-h/133-1+-+Dawn.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208542318082124866" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwV7SPmcy7bdlAGAV8N-Elhny54E51XbXhHhwu6C8wep-YZCdt9gCqcO3Y7EjelgA1xAZB946uE5mRg0qvMnJQAkQFAUbAxfyGOD63gD9zWGGlsqoqZHTf1wTISaFsL5v2tMWEEZZEbSbL/s400/133-1+-+Dawn.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div>Morning on the salar (this is my lens freezing up) day 133<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga_94ghfRRBiYRaV7gIfIhkXRc6acoUjWRt464YCyMMQ_ipGc7qwUA5nfqTqxgzF_YFLDlCHVKAZpLha-mtQf34w02posXLFnRrPsFOvUaGqlg95dDmgwBUmUlUHcrCjdcKxMaX3TyethT/s1600-h/133-2+-+My+Steed+and+Spare+Parts.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208541622297422770" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga_94ghfRRBiYRaV7gIfIhkXRc6acoUjWRt464YCyMMQ_ipGc7qwUA5nfqTqxgzF_YFLDlCHVKAZpLha-mtQf34w02posXLFnRrPsFOvUaGqlg95dDmgwBUmUlUHcrCjdcKxMaX3TyethT/s400/133-2+-+My+Steed+and+Spare+Parts.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />My trusty steed, near my front wheel and spare rim are 2 fairly critical parts (screw & standoff holding the front rack on) that somehow fell off right here<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1ktD8O8RFWezPJWuCdZdWtCS1qrm9m5n2FJJMKY9Q3HozllOprHZMtQw0nckwPjnmddRDBgfgatiBJgAPKiPNFSTeUEjAB6RM8wrlpgQW-VPpA0IuhUokfa9Mq1zPpDP9URQ3u57_4Mo/s1600-h/133-3+-+Dawn2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208541626592390082" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1ktD8O8RFWezPJWuCdZdWtCS1qrm9m5n2FJJMKY9Q3HozllOprHZMtQw0nckwPjnmddRDBgfgatiBJgAPKiPNFSTeUEjAB6RM8wrlpgQW-VPpA0IuhUokfa9Mq1zPpDP9URQ3u57_4Mo/s400/133-3+-+Dawn2.JPG" border="0" /></a>.<br />Morning salar<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgozBjyRvlD_AsDWG14oNnKoMCC644EVj-iw2fKOQgb6qWe_ItyMYhIC8-zVV_jHWNfwy7Tb5AtV11-AroGE7gIUb8eEOJwwJyouTP1StSvwCcUJR8dvKndAAeRdGjFaTVHe3dple_iS5X6/s1600-h/133-4+-+The+Island.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208541626592390098" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgozBjyRvlD_AsDWG14oNnKoMCC644EVj-iw2fKOQgb6qWe_ItyMYhIC8-zVV_jHWNfwy7Tb5AtV11-AroGE7gIUb8eEOJwwJyouTP1StSvwCcUJR8dvKndAAeRdGjFaTVHe3dple_iS5X6/s400/133-4+-+The+Island.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The island<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-rdlecrt-FSHCiYe9docTLQJhT4DKIPkYUh57pmI8oGltR3IS6t0NNJqqaItrr5kU3y97NN7yvXDkRvPhwLKhSHpmAgvzYGqBO9ruhyphenhyphenWFBLhFSPLhcnC4NmH-PM0-0JZJ05KOnrr41Wnr/s1600-h/133-5+-+White.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208541635182324706" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-rdlecrt-FSHCiYe9docTLQJhT4DKIPkYUh57pmI8oGltR3IS6t0NNJqqaItrr5kU3y97NN7yvXDkRvPhwLKhSHpmAgvzYGqBO9ruhyphenhyphenWFBLhFSPLhcnC4NmH-PM0-0JZJ05KOnrr41Wnr/s400/133-5+-+White.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />White 1<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizxGQIhSTUvi-ODnn6jOfO0uXr_bQYlOh4UHokRmI4ScNriDMxd5ydMTIXm-JEYuqw1tUjEz6saVp-EcoK9yamnFq9oVKHxahLw-3i6j_9z-aBSahgUdXWwSDeHBrlTrKE9bEXNbEbqteY/s1600-h/133-6+-+White2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208541635182324722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizxGQIhSTUvi-ODnn6jOfO0uXr_bQYlOh4UHokRmI4ScNriDMxd5ydMTIXm-JEYuqw1tUjEz6saVp-EcoK9yamnFq9oVKHxahLw-3i6j_9z-aBSahgUdXWwSDeHBrlTrKE9bEXNbEbqteY/s400/133-6+-+White2.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />White2<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqmpO5eimm5oeR-pkIZc2R6U_LBww1fBnVyHc63-O8F2Jylf0iPuP2n3mDCDkzIekn-5bVV0z6EhKGj2qolBVsVBCTARyNK4d7iAxnl3BOE9IFXt6Fl7qzVnjLuhHTrFC0Qe2Ca4mhleD/s1600-h/133-7+-+Life+even+here.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208541051066772322" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqmpO5eimm5oeR-pkIZc2R6U_LBww1fBnVyHc63-O8F2Jylf0iPuP2n3mDCDkzIekn-5bVV0z6EhKGj2qolBVsVBCTARyNK4d7iAxnl3BOE9IFXt6Fl7qzVnjLuhHTrFC0Qe2Ca4mhleD/s400/133-7+-+Life+even+here.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Life, here too.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW4A9yOCWKyDpVXladEQSliQqeYPlUb5g74m9y8S_Aax6WwjrFQ4GEYLHlGCWF6KZzMi5TRVU3qz3MMPbET5xoffALcmVPQic_SCj5snhONHY2adhzzSTOSYRy323T1pBGs2kK89izjtaU/s1600-h/133-8+-+Salt+Close+Up.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208541055361739634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW4A9yOCWKyDpVXladEQSliQqeYPlUb5g74m9y8S_Aax6WwjrFQ4GEYLHlGCWF6KZzMi5TRVU3qz3MMPbET5xoffALcmVPQic_SCj5snhONHY2adhzzSTOSYRy323T1pBGs2kK89izjtaU/s400/133-8+-+Salt+Close+Up.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Salt close up<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg55RouWcZ5F3L7RktrrcfzbrXBELog-TBKW-Kb0OaC96EfZFrw9XxbU_QKw0YVMVGq2jSCwdxLpCLw00VaDUhGmXk1uC_l_0xkwYuy31zbrMILSfg9k-oDN3S64Lh8aAGS_qiQNv7dbOb9/s1600-h/133-9+-+Island+Trail+and+Road+on+the+Salar.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208541055361739650" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg55RouWcZ5F3L7RktrrcfzbrXBELog-TBKW-Kb0OaC96EfZFrw9XxbU_QKw0YVMVGq2jSCwdxLpCLw00VaDUhGmXk1uC_l_0xkwYuy31zbrMILSfg9k-oDN3S64Lh8aAGS_qiQNv7dbOb9/s400/133-9+-+Island+Trail+and+Road+on+the+Salar.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The view from the island and a road<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTKkYY5HrgnvVaFrbjIFzD3hXeaZXv2EUbgaLRxfQbBko911mNR77qKEE-auDWuGgZkDOAtDeCL5yGZopwCHdqnBWzY3xZkRAYfLt9zxIBbmWMbB9023XjNoYem3dyaUwFtl9-DDfsd92_/s1600-h/133-10+-+Island+Bird+Close+Up.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208541059656706962" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTKkYY5HrgnvVaFrbjIFzD3hXeaZXv2EUbgaLRxfQbBko911mNR77qKEE-auDWuGgZkDOAtDeCL5yGZopwCHdqnBWzY3xZkRAYfLt9zxIBbmWMbB9023XjNoYem3dyaUwFtl9-DDfsd92_/s400/133-10+-+Island+Bird+Close+Up.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Bird on the island<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMfab1KyZCTubifiqs4CrbV2iAIkTydDb763zrHJUFxRIhRlXZCFPph0OkhVqpZ2a4NugvW8VpF3PEGo1DrOYZSbQikQfSPB1YQEy3Jhjij4JFTdm7leoW0hnbRWAHYIsQ-dhb7IoNwkis/s1600-h/133-11+-+Offerings+to+Pachamama+-+and+Skittle.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208541063951674274" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMfab1KyZCTubifiqs4CrbV2iAIkTydDb763zrHJUFxRIhRlXZCFPph0OkhVqpZ2a4NugvW8VpF3PEGo1DrOYZSbQikQfSPB1YQEy3Jhjij4JFTdm7leoW0hnbRWAHYIsQ-dhb7IoNwkis/s400/133-11+-+Offerings+to+Pachamama+-+and+Skittle.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Offerings to Pachamama - the little blue thing is a Skittle - I like somebody's thinking.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh26-wTLc9ksIeZ7UhBwwNKnI_zfIlzsKzwcmtfqoj7Ct70OdL-o-TI8lDM7s_4Yj4vePbUytjRnSyMMWcflZOKg3mJzD4hxXiKIfSmxP2JPxdsxAUOSz_C5EyOSDTj6RFswEN6IBmaTt-X/s1600-h/133-12+-+Road+to+the+Hotel+-+actually+take+the+left+one.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208540363872004882" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh26-wTLc9ksIeZ7UhBwwNKnI_zfIlzsKzwcmtfqoj7Ct70OdL-o-TI8lDM7s_4Yj4vePbUytjRnSyMMWcflZOKg3mJzD4hxXiKIfSmxP2JPxdsxAUOSz_C5EyOSDTj6RFswEN6IBmaTt-X/s400/133-12+-+Road+to+the+Hotel+-+actually+take+the+left+one.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The road to the hotel, or was it the left one (I eventually switched)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSFFBznDRE-GiUV2Nu1RwGEbU3tuFFf-Hv-6HLp0okoT-CEdpdukM-mrACQrgYHVieKpW1bWU50jwTiypmXkiBp-sR6mT1POFFSeNcJbfXcK_CRQt2U_6jp-RvuD8wVaINkIwnqs5YaMX4/s1600-h/133-13+-+Watch+out+for+Potholes.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208540363872004898" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSFFBznDRE-GiUV2Nu1RwGEbU3tuFFf-Hv-6HLp0okoT-CEdpdukM-mrACQrgYHVieKpW1bWU50jwTiypmXkiBp-sR6mT1POFFSeNcJbfXcK_CRQt2U_6jp-RvuD8wVaINkIwnqs5YaMX4/s400/133-13+-+Watch+out+for+Potholes.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Watch for potholes<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmx0937_Ma5vFU1EfqmOTwz_QbydgS3ztQ0XwRwTifpqNuhMN41tyEaEzOdt3Eq8GHBvdoRa_3QIeuiHD-6alsiRyB1UMz2UyI2uzY1UOBkkjrH21zGFTaPbxWpCUyFjzATsVZdvUSPR5c/s1600-h/133-14+-+Not+Long+for+this+Life.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208540368166972210" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmx0937_Ma5vFU1EfqmOTwz_QbydgS3ztQ0XwRwTifpqNuhMN41tyEaEzOdt3Eq8GHBvdoRa_3QIeuiHD-6alsiRyB1UMz2UyI2uzY1UOBkkjrH21zGFTaPbxWpCUyFjzATsVZdvUSPR5c/s400/133-14+-+Not+Long+for+this+Life.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Not long for this life, but still amazing how this got there - miles from any plant<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Wpynhkd4MgCCwbd2QeatTb7RT7yZAkRAEYttZSVsfs4tGAkeln9x08zXQmnxmxvgsIUMUpuTopWMCfn5DT7IcQh1S4z4_Me40pF2OIu_wXoEuWE0GV86Q7v5i9nTtVk3sLtv4OIBrUJN/s1600-h/133-15+-+The+Salt+Hotel.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208540372461939522" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Wpynhkd4MgCCwbd2QeatTb7RT7yZAkRAEYttZSVsfs4tGAkeln9x08zXQmnxmxvgsIUMUpuTopWMCfn5DT7IcQh1S4z4_Me40pF2OIu_wXoEuWE0GV86Q7v5i9nTtVk3sLtv4OIBrUJN/s400/133-15+-+The+Salt+Hotel.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Me at the salt hotel<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKk2LKuiTEUK8Q_zJEIOQcbadpt8EjMW01bqZ9mxHiL5dY_cIrQ5tNHjS8W-WHvCUuggtwqd_DekuoDl5Z6lGroBgBPju-f7Xuxu3zXyIumgi0s0hhWUEKoHox7dU4-lOuv3H2FBo7UoBf/s1600-h/133-16+-+Mining+Salt.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208540381051874130" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKk2LKuiTEUK8Q_zJEIOQcbadpt8EjMW01bqZ9mxHiL5dY_cIrQ5tNHjS8W-WHvCUuggtwqd_DekuoDl5Z6lGroBgBPju-f7Xuxu3zXyIumgi0s0hhWUEKoHox7dU4-lOuv3H2FBo7UoBf/s400/133-16+-+Mining+Salt.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Miners<br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Day 127 - May 17<br /><br />Well, another live one - from another cold tent on the Bolivian Altiplano south of the Salar de Uyuni. Tonight we're in sight of Laguna Colorada. But we've changed. We're down to 3. Dave caught a jeep to Uyuni and awaits us there. After his first cold night and subsequent misery and sickness, he decided he wasn't up to another round. So today the group is myself, Jan-Willem and Gudrun. And today was one of the most challenging days on this trip.<br /><br />Due to the logistics of feeding a dozen or so jeepfuls of tourists, we had to clear our bedsite by around 6am so it was a 5:30 alarm to awaken into starlight. No lights at the refugio, but we soon roused ourselves and got our headlights switched on. Then packed, moved our stuff into Dave's room (seemed prudent for him to have the room to himself), unpacked breakfast, and spread out again on one of the tables in the same room we slept in.<br /><br />By around 7 the first jeeps were arriving and discharging their cargo into the hot spring. I still liked our session last night, but watching bathers in a steamy pool with air temps around -15C at sunrise is still a pretty neat photo.<br /><br />We return to our simple breakfast of stuff that keeps for a week or two - powdered milk, coffee, cereal, ... Dave is awake for awhile and we start talking to the drivers to see if he can get a ride to Uyuni. Everyone is helpful - the first driver is willing, then the man who's kind of in charge of the refugio also offers a ride, so that's sorted. He should be in a jeep heading out of here by around 9:30.<br /><br />We have a pretty lazy morning - a few photos, filter water, pack,... no rush, we want to see Dave safely off.<br /><br />Only problem is 9:30, 10, 10:30 come and go and no ride for Dave. We're assured the jeep is coming but are running into our own problems if we stay much longer. We have about 40km of some of the hardest riding ahead - a pass near 5000m followed by 16km at altitude before dropping back to something reasonable near Laguna Colorada. We don't want to get stuck high up, it's hard enough camping around 4300m with the gear we (especially myself) have. So in the end, we have to leave Dave at the refugio and set off.<br /><br />First impressions are pretty smooth - road isn't too bad or too steep and yesterday's tailwinds are back. Nice. Scenery is still surreal - vicunas feeding amidst a harsh, alkaline lake & salt bed.<br />And then a long beep and Dave's hanging out the window of a Jeep and is about the happiest person I've seen in awhile - amazing for someone who could pass for near death a few hours earlier (I exaggerate, but the turnaround is still the fastest since Lazarus).<br /><br />First road impressions are deceiving - soon the northerly road turns west and right into a now very impressive wind. It also gets steeper although the road itself is still managable. Our pace is now down to 5km/h or so with frequent sections of walking. But it's still amazing how the body adapts. 2 weeks ago I was struggling to push my unloaded bike to 4800m and now we're all riding fully overloaded bikes (around 10l of water per person) on a gravel road up to 4960m (well over 16000ft). My understanding is that at altitude, the body produces a lot more hemoglobin to carry oxygen around so you can still function fairly normally despite less than half the normal air being available.<br /><br />But it's still a very harsh place as Dave found out and we're still finding out. We make the summit about 20km from the refugio and the wind is still unrelenting. We're not even sure it is the summit - just a rolling road as far as you can see. There are geysers nearby but we don't have time or energy to seek them out.<br /><br />The day is wearing on and I need to make a pitstop in the midst of nothing - no trees or rocks or anything for miles well, anyway, a jeep stops and I swear they're taking pictures, but no, Mareike gets out. We met while hiking down near Ushuaia about 6 weeks ago on a rainy, rainy day. Small world.<br /><br />And then it's on into the wind. Finally after another 5km of brutality, the road turns north and we get a break. We can actually enjoy the downhill, except in parts the road is so bad we end up walking the bikes down - easy mountain biking terrain, but not something to which you want to subject a bike with 50kg of deadweight pack.<br /><br />The road continues to improve and eventually, after a few twists and turns, the horizon opens up and you see Laguna Colorada - and yes, it is kinda reddish/pinkish, a bit hard to describe.<br />The downhill is just beautiful, but I'm really getting cold - despite being well into the tropics now, temps only hit 10C but in the wind it's just freezing. We get to the valley just as the sun sets so it's time to find a campsite fast. There's a small canyon near the junction of the roads around L. Colorada and that's home tonight. A hard, hard ride.<br /><br />A nice meal, conversation, and cards and it's time to turn in and write these few lines. Hopefully tonight is not quite as cold as last time, but I won't hold my steaming breath...<br /><br />Again, the exact path with altitudes will be posted, but basically the road starts out pretty good from the thermals, climbs about 500m over 20km to our highest pass of 4969m, then flattens out and except for a few km after the turnoff to Colorada, it's really not too bad. Just a few sections of sand and of course plenty of washboard but there's usually a way to avoid much of it. From the pass it's a pretty gradual downhill for 16km and then you drop a few hundred m to the Laguna over another 8km or so.<br /><br />Day 128 -<br />to a high plain in the middle of nowhere - about 5km S of Piedra del Arbol, 27.9km, 5.9av, 25.6mx, 283m, 4:45, to 4570m, 19449km, 22.0774S, 67.8646W<br /><br />Wow, what a difference a day makes. My situation at the moment isn't much different from yesterday - inside a chilly (about 0C) tent and it's only gonna get chillier - this is my highest camp ever at around 4570m (almost exactly 15000ft) on a high plain here in the Bolivian altiplano.<br /><br />But the larger situation has changed. A lot. Yesterday we had to get Dave out of here, today it was Jan-Willem's turn. Similar symptoms - nausea/vomitting, heavy coughing, and general misery. So that was camp this morning. After some discussion, Jan and Gudrun decided to flag down a vehicle and get to Uyuni, just like Dave 24hours earlier. So again, I got to say goodbye after breakfast.<br /><br />And then there was one.<br /><br />Not sure if this is a good idea, but I've been feeling great and nothing seems close to failure, so apart from catching the same illness, things really look ok. I'm proceeding through the altiplano and across the salar to Uyuni alone.<br /><br />Having a small group is definitely advisable, but oh well, probably won't be back this way any time soon. It is an amazing and brutal place. Plus there's plenty of jeeps - at least I thought there were.<br /><br />After saying goodbye, I decided to take the more difficult route to the salar - mostly because the entire route gets at least some jeep traffic while the "easy" cycle route has about 30km of sandy, railroad track which the jeeps don't take.<br /><br />But it sure is difficult - right off the bat the road turns to sand and rocks and that will pretty much sum up the whole day.<br /><br />The jeep thing was a bit odd - we camped only 15km from the Refugio on almost blood red Laguna Colorada, but in the nearly 3 hours it takes me to cover that stretch I don't see a single vehicle anywhere near me. The refugio is out of sight until you're less than 2km away, so I really start to wonder if perhaps this route is closed at the moment. I hear the crossing from Chile further north is closed at the moment - maybe there's some major road problem. I'm already running various scenarios through my head - turning around to the "easy" route - but there goes pretty much day and my water situation doesn't have a lot of spare days (you have to carry what you drink - there are pretty much no natural sources, although some of the lagunas may be filterable if really desparate).<br /><br />Still, cycling along this lake is a bit surreal - it really is very, very red.<br /><br />Fortunatetly, the refugio is open. Just the store is closed, but I can get water and I can also verify that the road ahead is, in fact, open.<br /><br />Today will be my hardest day to date. Don't quite make my goal, but at least I get water. The road situation after the refugio does not improve. Mostly it just gets more chaotic - as you head north, the road splits again and again and pretty much the whole hillside is dozens of ruts cut by jeeps. It seems once a track is too rough, the jeeps seek out new cuts through the desert - so vegetation is pretty much dead for hundreds of meters.<br /><br />As a cyclist, you pretty much pick any path at random. They're all really, really bad and they frequently converge and diverge.<br /><br />My average speed today is under 6km/h - a record low, about a brisk walking pace. If it weren't for a few patches of ridable surface and a downhill, it would've been below walking speed. I think I pushed my bike more km than I rode it today. Hmmm, the roads ahead shouldn't be quite as bad from the info I have. I sure hope so - tomorrow is another pass (only around 4700m) and I would like to camp lower and warmer. Hopefully I can make it to the remaining lagunas on this road, but they're still over 50km away.<br /><br />And despite all this, the landscape is starkly beautiful, and I'm still accompanied by flamingoes and vicunas. Picked up my first flamingo feather while walking to L. Colorada.<br /><br />Fortunately, in the evening I see plenty of jeeps. While it's perhaps a bit of an absurd situation - jeep after jeep of tourists tearing up the terrain, it's still comforting to know I probably won't have go for too long (well, still 12h maybe) in an emergency. Hope I stay well - don't want to be freezing with nausea.<br /><br />So the roads - well, the exact route will be posted. Basically, you follow the W side of the lake, more or less level on really bad roads. Then hit the refugio, and afterwards start to climb very slowly on one of dozens of tracks up the hillside. Later the road(s) cut west and that's pretty much where I'm at at the moment. Road is perhaps a bit generous - mostly they're just sand, plants, and rocks beaten down by a few jeeps until the washboard gets bad and they cut new paths. This stuff is really not cyclable any more - either too many big rocks or too much sand. But you still get patches of ridable stuff - I think I did manage maybe 1km at most without getting stuck in sand or rocks. Well, tomorrow's another day and I'm getting cold. Time to get warm in my bag. Ciao.<br /><br />Day 129Well, no live report tonight - writing this one a day later under slight duress, but more on that in a few minutes. So let's go back to yesterday...<br /><br />First off, it's cold. It's really, really cold. I think this was my coldest night in a tent, ever. Water in the tent froze solid. To have some liquid water, I pack all the big bottles into a single Ortlieb bag, cover it with insulation (in this case my breakfast cereal bags) and seal it up. Those bottles didn't freeze solid so I have some water for a nice morning cup of coffee and some cold cereal.<br /><br />My thermometer was already down to -5C (its limit) before I went to bed. I suspect it got to -10C or less in the tent and probably around -20C (-4F) outside. Still, it doesn't seem quite so cold - I still remember a night around -15C on my first bike trip in central Illinois and I seem to cope better now, despite my current bag being less warm. I wonder if being in only half an atmosphere reduces the rate of heat loss much...<br /><br />Anyway, this is a bike ride so after shooting a few videos in the tent, it's time to get a move on. Still have a hard time getting going before 9am, especially in these temps, but eventually hit the trail a bit after 9:30.<br /><br />The sun is amazing. By 10:30 temps are already around +20C. I make it to Piedras de Arbol, my missed goal for the previous day. The road is pretty much non-existant. The entire high plain here is covered in jeep tracks. Nothing grows anymore, just a desolate maze of trails maybe 800m wide. And they all suck. But not quite as bad as yesterday. I actually manage to ride for a few km at a time now and then before getting stuck. Washboard is everywhere, though, so it's definitely slow going. My goal of around 70km to the ecohotel is quickly out the window.<br /><br />I kinda hit the various GPS waypoints that J-W and Gudrun found on the internet. Kinda because I'm generally between 0.5 and 2km away, again because there is no obvious "main" trail. The marker for the final high pass at 4700m is quite elusive. I never get to that pass, instead I get bogged down in a sandy valley and push the bike for several km. If you come this way, when you see what may be a military or mining post straight ahead and the trails head off to the right/east, pick the far right trail. I think that's what the GPS author did. All trails constantly converge and diverge, but my choice of the middle-of-the-road trails was nothing but soft sand for several km.<br /><br />Really hard going.<br /><br />And then evening came and I finally kinda made the pass - not quite as high and several km from where I expected it to be, but the road does drop down. This is the best part of the day. My average speed until now is only a little faster than yesterday, but from around 4670m the road drops to around 4280 (and keeps going down, but that'll wait till tomorrow). And for the most part, the descent is fun. Just watch it. It's impossible to tell how substantial the roadbed is - I frequently hit sand. Mostly it slows you down, but it can throw your front wheel and take you down pretty fast. I highly recommend not using clipless pedals on this trek. You'll want those feet free for split second kicks off whatever ground is handy to keep from falling when your front tire skids. Fortunately, I can choose normal or clipless with my setup.<br /><br />Anyway, I actually manage to break 20km/h. Wow. I also manage to put the bike down once, and once I also go down with it. Fortunately, not at any substantial speed and nothing breaks, although the fall resulted from my front wheel facing backwards after getting stuck in sand, so my steering needs some manual adjustment (i.e. force the handlebars back straight).<br /><br />Beautiful descent, even has a few killer switchbacks thrown in for fun. Well, the sun is going down and my hands are really getting cold, but I do manage to get 50km in for the day before stopping. Not too bad on these brutal roads. Night finds me in sight of the first salar which precedes the set of 4 lakes - about 15km from my goal, but not too bad. Just a beautiful full-moonrise over the mountains as I set up camp.<br /><br />Day 130 - my turn?<br />39.8km, 8.2av, 25.3mx, 330m, 4:50, to 4230m, 126.1km alt, 19540 - pass 6000km today, 21.3977S, 67.9942W<br /><br />I hope my luck isn't running out as I write these words. Today is live again, just wrote up yesterday. And again I'm in a chilly tent - about the same altitude as yesterday. But last night wasn't too bad - probably about 10C warmer than the night before - hopefully tonight will be similar.<br /><br />But otherwise, today didn't go too well. Get up as usual, make coffee, cold cereal, so far so good. I really have to take a dump before even finishing breakfast - first round of diarhea. The second will follow before I break camp. Not good - I'm already low on fluids.<br /><br />Cycling continues where it left off - down the hillside. The first 10km or so are just awesome - averaging well over 12km/h - that's really good for this road.<br /><br />I make the ecohotel before noon - it's not much to look at, but I'm just glad it exists. I lost another 1.5l bottle last night - it partially filled my Ortlieb bag which conveniently soaked everything at the bottom in a few inches of water. I started today with just over 2l and while I know what's ahead from others, I still get concerned when my health and the ride are dependent on this hotel existing, being open, and having water. I could flag down a vehicle, but I'd like to avoid that if possible and it can be hours between vehicles which may choose tracks a km or more away.<br /><br />But the hotel is open and has water - just no drinkable tap water, I need to buy the bottled variety. Still, only 12 Bolivianos ($2) for 2l. I end up with 4l of water and 2 of Coke. 8l total should see me to the next town.<br /><br />Lots of jeeps around to view a huge flock of flamingoes - they really are everyhwere down here. And these are fairly used to humans so you can get a pretty good shot.<br /><br />I continue but am wearing down. I have no appetite, am producing amazing quantities of gas and acid reflux, and the road gets worse and worse. I'm really getting concerned I may be coming down with the same thing that claimed Dave and J-W. So far no nausea or vomiting, just weakness, loss of appetite, and my morning adventure.<br /><br />Lunch is just Coke and dry bread. Seems to stay down fairly well even if it isn't a whole lotta calories. It's a big problem - it's really hard to eat 4-5000 calories every single day and I've lost a fair amount a weight already. Losing a day of food intake is really hard and I can't really wait around here in the sticks to get better. I just have to take it slow, frequently push the bike instead of riding, and just relax a lot. I decide not to push it too hard today - set up camp around 5 after only 40km. Unfortunately, there's noone left to nurse me, so I need my wits. Set up camp, get warm, take a nap. I awake again and decide for a very simple dinner - more Coke, more dry bread, a rehydration drink, and I chance some milk. It's really hard to get a balanced diet out here with no fresh food. Everything is canned or dried. I figure powdered milk at least has some electrolytes and a fair amount of vitamins and minerals even if it's not the easiest to digest. So far so good.<br /><br />But back to riding today - the road heads along a set of 4 lakes. The hotel is on the 2nd from the North and from there it's a decent climb and descent to the final lake (in my direction). I take lunch here away from the crowds of jeeps. Get a chance to recharge the laptop - the solar cell has been working really well on this 10 day excursion away from electricity. I'm GPS-recording each day on my phone which typically nearly drains the internal and my external kludged battery, so each evening and on breaks I recharge the phone and the laptop when possible.<br /><br />And then lunch is over and there are no jeeps around, just a beautiful lake with a thin veneer of ice. When the wind is just right, it pushes the ice onto the shore making some interesting noises as I watch sheets buck up and break. Watching the birds skid as the land also provides some lunchtime entertainment.<br /><br />Afterwards, I continue to head north. Tailwinds have been mercifully present much of the past few days and today the trend continues. But the road quickly turns into the worst section I've encountered so far. Not the thing you want to experience when you're already weak.<br /><br />And as I leave the lake, a cute little fox passes by. I take a shot of it and it continues heading for me. Hmmm, not used to friendly foxes. Rabies? Doesn't look sick. I look around and quickly see another one - also heading my way. And another, and another. I'm starting to get a bit concerned - can these small predators gang up on large mammals like myself? I yell but they keep coming. I realize they're probably just looking for handouts - used to all the jeeps, but still it's pretty creepy. And for icing, a large vulture hovers maybe 5m off the ground looking down.<br />OK, I still have a few tricks up my sleeve - grab a few rocks and take aim. Ahhh, nothing like being a tool-making primate. My suspicion is probably validated - after scattering, the foxes return to the rocks to ensure they weren't some kind of high-speed meal. After no hand-out, they eventually disperse. Still, my heart was pounding awhile as I tried to charge up a fairly steep, loose hill with my bike with 4 foxes just trotting along a few meters away. Like a bizarre Hitchcock movie.<br /><br />Anyway, the road goes from worse to worse stil. Most of the afternoon is pushing the bike uphill, then pushing it downhill - even jeeps have it hard here. A rocky road with stones of all sizes, ruts, sand, you name it. Fun on a mountain bike, but less so with an extra 50kg. Falling or breaking stuff would be unwise here so I take it really slow. Wish I could shoot some video, but there's no way to do this one-handed and my helmet-cam is still just a dream. Some stills will have to do.<br /><br />Evening is spent coming off the 2nd to last pass of 4300m - a brutal, rocky descent complete with switchbacks. I decide to call it a day, and well, you already know the rest.<br /><br />So I'm back in my sleeping bag. My meager dinner is staying down and so far my intestinal noises seem a bit quieter than earlier today, so perhaps I'm winning the battle, or there's just not enough food in the system for them to get excited about.<br /><br />I should know by morning - hopefully a really big breakfast to replenish the calories missed today. If not, I'll probably have to think about bailing as well - I'd really rather not, I'm only about 2 days from the Salar and I want to make it without a jeep. Plus I can see a road junction and trucks just flying down the other road with which I'll merge in a few hundred meters from my camp - looks like road conditions should be picking up. Time will tell...<br /><br />Day 131<br />Well, skipping a day - currently in another really cold tent approaching midnight in the middle of absolutely nowhere - surrounded by miles and miles of salt flat. But that would be day 132 as I write these words.<br /><br />131, well, what a difference a day makes. Today was almost perfect. It starts out a few hundred meters from that junction - and I was right, the other road is new, and boy is it nice. Definitely among the best gravel roads I've had the pleasure of travelling down anywhere. Really smooth chip seal, almost no give, very little sand and after an initial maybe 60m climb, it's all downhill. About 30km worth. From around 4300 to 3700m. To give you an idea, I hit over 60km/h - I think that's a record for me for unpaved road.<br /><br />Oh, and I'm feeling better, too. Thanks for asking.<br /><br />After 10km or so, you have to decide - stay "pure" and follow the direct, but crappy, 4x4 trail, or stick to the new road and add perhaps 10km to the ride, but probably save at least an hour or so.<br /><br />The choice is pretty easy for me, after cursing rocky, sandy, barely-pushable terrain for a couple days now, a high-speed descent is in order.<br /><br />On arrival at the bottom, you're in a another salar - Chiguana, not Uyuni. That's still a ways off, but if things go well, perhaps later today...<br /><br />Actually, you're at the border checkpoint/train station. It's only a few km back to Chile from here. After a few questions on the further road, I'm off again - this time the road isn't very obvious at all - it more or less parallels the train line, but of course, there are plenty of alternate routes. None of which are signposted. There's a military checkpoint in about 30km which I'd rather avoid as I'm still not yet legal in Bolivia until I reach Uyuni and buy my visa.<br /><br />It's not too hard to find an alternate trail which skirts the base to the north. In fact, you can pretty much go in any direction, as long as you know where you're going. This proves somewhat elusive. I'm using a set of GPS waypoints from the Internet. And I really like my phone now. It tells me which direction and how far to go - just punch in lat and long.<br /><br />So I look at the next waypoint and it's looking pretty good. Just miles of salt ahead - the riding is still smooth and fast. In fact, I look at the waypoint after that, too and it's looking good to, just a few km further away - hell, with a giant salt flat and lots of tracks in all directions, might as well skip a point and head directly to the next one.<br /><br />So the scenery just whizzes past - salt flat, occasional soft patches, but nothing too bad, and mountains all around.<br /><br />Then it hits me - something's wrong - there's no way those mountains are more than 30km away - the distance to the waypoint. Hmmm. Unpack the map - sure enough, Cholca K is on the other side of the range and there's no way through. The correct way is now several km out of my way, back to the first waypoint - the reason you should do these in order and keep an eye on a real map. Live and learn.<br /><br />[Note: if you cycle this way, have a look at the satellite imagery - the trail I was on appears to also head to the salar - you might save a full day - I just didn't have enough water to try this. It would be a really smooth, sweet ride. Follow the jeep trail straight ahead where I turned 90deg to head for San Juan. I was really, really tempted to do this - even make a 180 around the mountains after looking at my crude park map, but thought it too risky on less than 2l of water left, so stock up on water at the train station/border and give it a try, I would have.]<br />So it was time for a 90deg. turn and a new bearing. Probably only cost me an hour, but the salar today doesn't look too likely.<br /><br />And then the road goes down two or three notches - back to soft sand and washboard. The last few km are a real struggle, but I still make San Juan before sunset. I decide this is it for today and find a decent family hospedaje. If here, get a room at Lidunas - only they're renovating so no heat. But there's a piping hot shower which feels sooo good after 8 days without (well, the hot spring was nice too, but even that was quite awhile ago now).<br /><br />Then it's time for dinner with my hosts - some really nice soup, llama meat, and quinoa? a local grain which is making inroads in the West - quite healthy.<br /><br />Still, this is a poor place - electricity lasts 2 hours a day and it's hard to buy fresh food.<br /><br />As I say, roads are generally excellent all day. See comment above on possible alternate route to the salar. Speeds were amazing - over 20km/h for the first 2 hours and still a respectable average for the day, would've been higher except the last 10km or so before San Juan are really sandy washboard again - quite a bit of pushing. Have a look for parallel bike trails next to the main road - they exist here and there and are generally much better.<br /><br />Day 132<br />75.0km, 10.5av, 27.2mx, 296m, 7:05 (a long day), to 3700m alt, 19716km, 126.5km alt<br /><br />Well, from San Juan it's not even 50km to the entrance to the Salar. Piece o cake...<br /><br />Yeah, right. Well, things are off to a good start - locate a tomato and onion - dinner should be good. Only problem is the onion will bounce out of my bag at some unknown point. But the tomato is still good.<br /><br />Then there's a local museum - worth a look - but the main attraction is the local necropolis - I forget the civilization's name - pre-Inca - Lides or something similar. Anyway, these bizarre jagged earthen tombs are just outside town, and most were opened and robbed at some point and there's plenty of skulls, mummified remains... gruesome but somehow we humans are a curious lot.<br /><br />From San Juan the road heads north towards the Salar. It's pretty obvious that this is no piece of cake. Lots and lots of sand. After 15km or so, a sign for Colcha K. Have a look at satellite imagery before you go this way. I swear this sign was put up by a sadist and there must be a better route [i.e. head towards Juluca and turn left further onwards]. Anyway, I follow it down an even sandier road at the bottom of a basin. Hit a town called Santiago which isn't on any map of mine. From town, the "road" is degraded to a really bad trail - pretty much straight up the side of a local hill. This is getting ridiculous. Washed out road bed, big rocks, it's hard to see how jeeps handle this. I'm sure most of them don't - there are almost no jeep tracks. There must be another way to Colcha K, but oh well, I'm here now. So I push the bike for several km in what turns out to be about a 150m (500ft) climb - probably an hour of really hard pushing. And then, there it is - the salar is in front of me - spreading out in all directions, nicely framed by the hill I'm standing on which is covered in cactii.<br /><br />Lunchtime.<br /><br />Down the other side, you're still not in Colcha - just another town. And more bad roads - really sandy washboard hugging the side of the hill just off the salar. I'm tempted to head down there, but have heard that near shore the salar is unpredictable - can have lots of really soft sand. So I stick to the road and after another hour or so pass a big military base. I'd like to shoot a few pictures, but decide against it - being an unpopular Yankee without visa I figure it's a bit of a risk. But you can skirt the base and then, Colcha K is in view.<br /><br />But it's already getting late and still over 20km to go, so I don't even head into town, just keep following the hill contour north.<br /><br />Needless to say, the road does not improve. This is up there with the worst roads, just no hills and no headwind, so at least I'm making 7-8km/h. By the time I'm finally at the entry to the salar, the sun has gone down. But I'm gonna spend at least one night on the salt and I want it to be tonight.<br /><br />At the entrance to the salar is another tourist / jeep base and several are parked here with a nice view. But I continue - onto the dam I assume is needed when the salar is flooded. My guides say head 3km out, then head bearing 354 across the salt.<br /><br />GPS makes this too easy - just head out to one waypoint, then follow the arrow towards the next waypoint. But actually, it's not needed - the sun has gone down and the Big Dipper is out. May not sound like much, but I haven't seen it in over 4 months - you can't see it further south and I didn't think you could see it here, either. The N star is below the horizon, but It's pretty clear where it should be so a bit to the left and start rolling.<br /><br />The salar is not as smooth as I thought / hoped it would be - still a whole lot better than anything else I've been on today. Picture a gigantic parking lot with about an inch of crunchy, slightly icy snow and that's pretty much what this feels like. But the amazing thing is how far it stretches. It just goes on and on and on. Hard to describe or picture but it is amazing. I even turn off my light for several km at a time - everything's white and just starlight is enough to make out rough contours - just a bit to the left of the Big Dipper.<br /><br />It's an amazing feeling - and finally, after an hour or so the moon makes an appearance and really lights things up. But it's getting cold and I'm hungry and tired, so eventually, about 15km shy of the central island I decide to call it a night. Have the place pretty much to myself. I decide to turn on my rear flasher as I park my bike in case there arre any errant jeeps running without lights across the expanse. But I see absolutely no human lights from here - just an amazing, cold, cold, sky and white to the horizon in most directions. Just amazing, amazing place. Here are a few night pics. I can't wait to see this by day.<br /><br />And that's coming soon enough as I type this in a freezing tent. I waited a bit too long, so my water bottle was already a nice slush before I stopped and getting everything set up and myself warm plus cooking dinner turns out to be a challenge. Quite annoyingly, 2 of my water bottles have failed, so each of my front Ortlieb bags are swimming on the inside - not too much gets wet and I only lose maybe just under a liter, but still really, really annoying. These roads are just brutal - I think I lost 2 bottles on the whole trip before now and 4 in the last few days in Bolivia. At least I have a beer again after 9 days so I'm doing ok. Riding towards the stars without lights under a bright moon was worth it. This is an amazing place. Well, time to call it a day. Ciao.<br /><br />Roads, lets see - first couple km are ok, then it gets challenging. After the turnoff to Santiago at arounnd 12km, it gets worse, then for a few km out of Santiago it's just insane. The downhill is manageable, but very challenging - ride the brakes. Afterwards, the road varies all the way to the Salar's port - a lot of sand, a lot of washboard. After Colcha K it gets a bit worse - have a look for parallel bike paths others have made, they sometimes save you a few hundred meters of washboard. Towards the end you may be able to cut out some concave curves and cut across the salar - generally a good idea if the salar is passable (as it is right now). Finally, the dam itself is rough but solid - I also tried the parallel jeep tracks as the salar is currently dry - softer but smoother. Finally, the salar itself is surprisingly variable - sometimes fairly smooth but never completely smooth - always some bumps and crunches.<br /><br />Day 133 - May 23 -<br />The Salar de Uyuni!<br /><br />What a way to wake up - the hum of a jeep passing near your tent. Fortunately, I left my taillight flashing - there are no roads here - just a plane about 100x150km or so. Actually, there are some "roads" - slightly smoother, blacker lines on the salar, but I won't see my first one for several hours. It's already light so no real danger of being hit in my tent, and actually, I'm already a bit away. And then, darnit - the sun is already on the horizon. A bit of a scramble to get out the door and snap a few shots. My cold lens doesn't just attract condensation, it immediately freezes, so a few shots are really interesting.<br /><br />But wow! This is even better in the light. I'll just let a few pictures speak for themselves.<br /><br />From here, the bearing continues where I left off yesterday - 354N for another 18km or so. And then you're at the island (Incahuasi) - a rocky, sandy little hill, covered in cactii and birds in the middle of endless miles of salt. I would definitely recommend a visit - there's an extremely well-marked trail to the top from which you can peer in all directions of white. There's even Mongo's - a fast food place, although I don't have time for a snack. Today will be my longest day in Bolivia - it's 62km to the Salt Hotel from here, then another 15 or so to shore and 25 to Uyuni - over 115 for the day and I'm in no mood for exploring Uyuni after dark.<br /><br />So I hike to the top, get in plenty of photos, admire the amazing Salar, and continue westwards.<br />Bring sunglasses & plenty of sunscreen.<br /><br />The ride is nice and smooth and fast - no winds at all. You can head in any direction you like, although following a road is recommended - smoother and you won't need to check your bearings as much. Unfortunately, roads aren't labeled so it could be a bit tricky. I use the theory that like everywhere else here, there are just plenty of parallel roads all leading to the same spot.<br /><br />If you come this way, when heading around the N side of the island, there is an obvious road. It splits into 2 roads both heading ESE - take the left (more northerly) one - at least that's what I ended up on. From there, all other junctions should be fairly obvious and eventually, you'll see the salt hotel appear on the horizon. The instructions I had said bearing 106, although the road is never that precise - running between around 94 and 115, but it's a lot faster than the salar itself.<br />The rest of the salar is pretty much more of the same, but I'm surprised to see a few potholes - a bit of an understatement - the salar is just missing in spots and there's water underneath. It's as if the salar is a slab of salt on top of a maze of salt pillars and water and in quite a few places the top layer has broken through. The crystals are amazing. Fortunately, I didn't hit one of these last night with my light off (they only seem to be in one small region between the salt hotel and the island).<br /><br />Also, the salar has an amazing variety of textures from what I'll call popcorn to almost a honeycomb like surface of interlocking panels, sometimes with fairly severe ridges between them, and in other places it really is very smooth.<br /><br />Well, I make the salar and so has a jeep I met at the island. They're obviously American and we get to talking and I ask about their rentals and no, they live here. At first I'm thinking missionary or aid workers but it turns out quite a few folks from the embassy are out on a field trip today so I get to say hi and even get a contact - who knows, perhaps a place to crash in LaPaz.<br /><br />From the salt hotel (currently shutterred) it's an easy ride to shore - you can see the buildings in Colchani you're heading for - except they're on the shore and Colchani is a few more km away from shore. Town is somewhat grim looking - a lot of adobe buildings in various stages of construction and/or decay. But folks are out selling handicrafts and pretty much everyone I've met so far has been friendly and waved or at worst indifferent. Quite a nice country.<br />But I must continue - the sun is setting. The Americans warned of the bad road to Uyuni - fortunately, they've never taken the jeep tour of the far SW. This is a piece of cake - I still average nearly 15km/h and barely need to push anywhere. The road has plenty of washboard but you often find a slightly more sandy, but smoother parallel track. Basically, to get to Uyuni, cross the train tracks and follow them right (SE). And after 15km or so, I see the first signs of civilization after 9 days - a cell phone tower.<br /><br />Uyuni isn't all that inviting at first - no real street signs so orientation is challenging - but inevitably, you can find center in a town of only 14000 and there's plenty of gringo restaurants - including Minuteman Pizza - owned by an American/Bolivian couple (he's from Boston, hence the name). I'm currently proudly wearing their T-shirt as I enter these words a few days later. I first find a hotel, then internet, then Dave who's doing fine (although J-W is still a bit sick), then pizza and a beer. It's been a great, great day and week and I'm exhausted.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-694199830314923862008-05-26T20:04:00.000-07:002008-06-06T12:17:24.301-07:00Week 18 - San Pedro and the start of the Salar trip<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2_jmKtaGrBgHdyg7YwR4ruLfFW4KMsPDHtZqdpMEDBqXUvkp69THa6BIv5q3Pgi54R9pqrBuZeV_c3PhNXR9uX9xxroWcfgxhsPa6tJgztTlUTZLc2hYWXmD2kz9B2s5khMGJR6EAqjHq/s1600-h/120-1+Hikers+on+Dune+VdL+1.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208846407278289586" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2_jmKtaGrBgHdyg7YwR4ruLfFW4KMsPDHtZqdpMEDBqXUvkp69THa6BIv5q3Pgi54R9pqrBuZeV_c3PhNXR9uX9xxroWcfgxhsPa6tJgztTlUTZLc2hYWXmD2kz9B2s5khMGJR6EAqjHq/s400/120-1+Hikers+on+Dune+VdL+1.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Week 18 - finally got the stills uploaded at least. This one is 2 hikers on Valle de la Luna<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTzrYkkAHWDzrEPFK0U9l9BT7Px_vefYQNmGH7fgB354jizuWBpv0MtZNpaM8Rxhu6Fo5m8bPE8GRKQUTNFFsTH8it31oBzcoUrzl4UH73aCEL_9pIup8_qGEEuLhU5Nxd-VC0s-L0RYLQ/s1600-h/120-2+Hikers+on+Dune+VdL+2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208845964896658018" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTzrYkkAHWDzrEPFK0U9l9BT7Px_vefYQNmGH7fgB354jizuWBpv0MtZNpaM8Rxhu6Fo5m8bPE8GRKQUTNFFsTH8it31oBzcoUrzl4UH73aCEL_9pIup8_qGEEuLhU5Nxd-VC0s-L0RYLQ/s400/120-2+Hikers+on+Dune+VdL+2.JPG" border="0" /></a> - day 120.<br />More gazers, V. d. l. Lune - about 15km from San Pedro de Atacama<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ZjVxKScNVhEpYUIhO6wuqXbUrXgPFu-M2roXa1N5P3zCrtIzmEVWqPZPmSLSVKh7FYoAnDvznUmaLCqbbHdtxjt3wVC6htYxlDuuWA7LW1gm6Q5gYCwPLh5WkitxlcS4_xMT4lZ8ie7N/s1600-h/120-3+Valle+de+Luna+3.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208845964896658034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ZjVxKScNVhEpYUIhO6wuqXbUrXgPFu-M2roXa1N5P3zCrtIzmEVWqPZPmSLSVKh7FYoAnDvznUmaLCqbbHdtxjt3wVC6htYxlDuuWA7LW1gm6Q5gYCwPLh5WkitxlcS4_xMT4lZ8ie7N/s400/120-3+Valle+de+Luna+3.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />And without the evening gazers<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1FFooeuhg6fG39fiZ-ZmpC7n5Sa1UmhPcAZSWl1jR3H7BOY1hz_jUZSLv7Dt5VEHygTEyyazaoV5r2laokbKWPZnfUA1VpnU2i68vMKhnbpaen3uD8tW7SSto0KvFxMb78TfxW7ZHtHxk/s1600-h/120-4+Looking+West+-+Valle+de+Luna+4.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208845969191625346" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1FFooeuhg6fG39fiZ-ZmpC7n5Sa1UmhPcAZSWl1jR3H7BOY1hz_jUZSLv7Dt5VEHygTEyyazaoV5r2laokbKWPZnfUA1VpnU2i68vMKhnbpaen3uD8tW7SSto0KvFxMb78TfxW7ZHtHxk/s400/120-4+Looking+West+-+Valle+de+Luna+4.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Looking W towards the now set sun.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh62WIWjrG7KaF3Jzp0MVn7U29TRPmgM3R-ToeMRElrX-hhyzbi1EoFyWsok7m2igjzanEB4YVygtBvMpsoyWYddOdzvbwa51QtkT8UYUMFJCqoFCFQTmw5Y_fSwI1vO4JGcLwhrqFiuCPU/s1600-h/121-1+Sandboarding+-+Dave+Climbing+Up.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208845969191625362" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh62WIWjrG7KaF3Jzp0MVn7U29TRPmgM3R-ToeMRElrX-hhyzbi1EoFyWsok7m2igjzanEB4YVygtBvMpsoyWYddOdzvbwa51QtkT8UYUMFJCqoFCFQTmw5Y_fSwI1vO4JGcLwhrqFiuCPU/s400/121-1+Sandboarding+-+Dave+Climbing+Up.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Dave climbing the dune for sandboarding on day 121<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3qZ7-77tHXneHDnZ0OV5oTOY8tCEGd98ECYKlndDrfAWAvuOkWZ6bXSPoDEwy5R4bAblKqNl_ZKz76KWYx05-661bUXHrpLsqPih0ygyfITuzVLc0AA7Uxy-m2N1AwubWX3Uv6yjsKbYR/s1600-h/121-2+Sandboarding+-+Getting+There.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208845969191625378" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3qZ7-77tHXneHDnZ0OV5oTOY8tCEGd98ECYKlndDrfAWAvuOkWZ6bXSPoDEwy5R4bAblKqNl_ZKz76KWYx05-661bUXHrpLsqPih0ygyfITuzVLc0AA7Uxy-m2N1AwubWX3Uv6yjsKbYR/s400/121-2+Sandboarding+-+Getting+There.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>How to get a sandboard to the dune<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje34pGnnYS1FuSrSk9CoYmUsvoL7adUF2liUuWAwtH-d-0thZ49ZiFNaH_3h9HYAaLiNUyHqqi4PT9Ah1gBEQ3fK7cQeKJ4Xla7PuLiLqlGcGbm-kXk-7illuiNI_ypwO-DkmvwUaasWtH/s1600-h/121-3+Cejar+-+the+edge.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208845488155288082" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje34pGnnYS1FuSrSk9CoYmUsvoL7adUF2liUuWAwtH-d-0thZ49ZiFNaH_3h9HYAaLiNUyHqqi4PT9Ah1gBEQ3fK7cQeKJ4Xla7PuLiLqlGcGbm-kXk-7illuiNI_ypwO-DkmvwUaasWtH/s400/121-3+Cejar+-+the+edge.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Laguna Cejar - also day 121, note how the edge just rolls away<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq5Z1Y02yXA7LAI4Y5L7J7JcBNQBipHw32h-_2IGmgCpgwNrZlKvsdLpMdaDGh3lmuUO5FO2QnfwF3eqAMIpvqq0DPp7ZnvHGPzz4T5bMTulW3vpZpg8TYLsQO7TdJd-xJkhAQk1OvS3RB/s1600-h/121-4+Cejar+-+just+floating+around.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208845488155288098" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq5Z1Y02yXA7LAI4Y5L7J7JcBNQBipHw32h-_2IGmgCpgwNrZlKvsdLpMdaDGh3lmuUO5FO2QnfwF3eqAMIpvqq0DPp7ZnvHGPzz4T5bMTulW3vpZpg8TYLsQO7TdJd-xJkhAQk1OvS3RB/s400/121-4+Cejar+-+just+floating+around.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />This stuff lives in extremely saline water.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1QzIbhY1oLDBsPYjr51l7ryKBCmf9kcIZpNGFqC2YglPseuQYuuCtxcvp56L4t4_XZASml7Y1PZllipzCIhT2xG_kO6jZiP8W2qkaRmkR4rqi23lVFQu8lQMFWeYzSN_d9_a_v9CVvhKL/s1600-h/121-5+Cejar+-+Reflections.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208845501040190002" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1QzIbhY1oLDBsPYjr51l7ryKBCmf9kcIZpNGFqC2YglPseuQYuuCtxcvp56L4t4_XZASml7Y1PZllipzCIhT2xG_kO6jZiP8W2qkaRmkR4rqi23lVFQu8lQMFWeYzSN_d9_a_v9CVvhKL/s400/121-5+Cejar+-+Reflections.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Another view of Cejar<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAob3X_zUb8P34Sy7MmJsLw7fMw9CSQChiwrHGflGtud_6TH9Z95vp3wMJnefPk-VZ9RYmIBiQ1NcLB3S-Oz8RGWev6yHnSD9cdVAKtdBOUNpRVj8nEmNJNXBRYOQpDdakuX5JmJgsHjzz/s1600-h/121-6+Evening+Atacama.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208845509630124610" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAob3X_zUb8P34Sy7MmJsLw7fMw9CSQChiwrHGflGtud_6TH9Z95vp3wMJnefPk-VZ9RYmIBiQ1NcLB3S-Oz8RGWev6yHnSD9cdVAKtdBOUNpRVj8nEmNJNXBRYOQpDdakuX5JmJgsHjzz/s400/121-6+Evening+Atacama.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Evening Volcanoes heading back to S.Pedro d. Atacama from Cejar<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbk502_FYQMmAZ5BTnPeNYa4yF4stS_fko11QUI0pWPGnyDG8zJc43k_yvKB87EvAl2gGvNQmxOZRhkH1ZpcgRCVKNtXDY7f3WbA_a-BjETQ_e3KmGvT5Cxc3bJPogkgQYn8nGYB0EAbYG/s1600-h/121-7+Evening+Band.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208845513925091922" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbk502_FYQMmAZ5BTnPeNYa4yF4stS_fko11QUI0pWPGnyDG8zJc43k_yvKB87EvAl2gGvNQmxOZRhkH1ZpcgRCVKNtXDY7f3WbA_a-BjETQ_e3KmGvT5Cxc3bJPogkgQYn8nGYB0EAbYG/s400/121-7+Evening+Band.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div>Evening band - day 121<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn98MDbAkE8js0kZQH3Yqo5qp9ULqeHMa9YNa_rcgOxEb0vIe1Gp4T3JFoFACW8txFTQ2YLLJ8Fjl7hg74m87dyK3AlvG6qTUNEPWj6UGOIgoZgbxvS9Bn5l9QkbQJzA_BJo9SJdq8tBri/s1600-h/122-1+Me+and+Geyser.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208473005899901634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn98MDbAkE8js0kZQH3Yqo5qp9ULqeHMa9YNa_rcgOxEb0vIe1Gp4T3JFoFACW8txFTQ2YLLJ8Fjl7hg74m87dyK3AlvG6qTUNEPWj6UGOIgoZgbxvS9Bn5l9QkbQJzA_BJo9SJdq8tBri/s400/122-1+Me+and+Geyser.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Me and the Geyer - day 122<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6muf6-l3oCz0uqAFLgF60zUWRn17RrEPldzOxL-1lVh4H5X-zGauiSMzaic2BoWWXF6XbsRVIZsk0g4hwKNL5zDwfLNmFykY0KOZXsHgZd6YncDFLoy7QAWevXYEnsH21p-24jHhFE0xl/s1600-h/122-2+Geysers+Everywhere.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208473010194868946" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6muf6-l3oCz0uqAFLgF60zUWRn17RrEPldzOxL-1lVh4H5X-zGauiSMzaic2BoWWXF6XbsRVIZsk0g4hwKNL5zDwfLNmFykY0KOZXsHgZd6YncDFLoy7QAWevXYEnsH21p-24jHhFE0xl/s400/122-2+Geysers+Everywhere.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Gettin that perfect shot<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4JbsRSEBkpY9x5j-zNTzy9Dx2vDNdoIDVapGrHhQcD6Dea8ZcbRX7zLPHu99dOFqAk7AKPKC3XXwi1maXKNH9u6koWCk5cAe5f8xOLkMOE6d5_1Wd67GCquvztVaBwbf1k3H9vVmfrdM/s1600-h/122-3+Bigger+Geysers+with+Microbes.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208473010194868962" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4JbsRSEBkpY9x5j-zNTzy9Dx2vDNdoIDVapGrHhQcD6Dea8ZcbRX7zLPHu99dOFqAk7AKPKC3XXwi1maXKNH9u6koWCk5cAe5f8xOLkMOE6d5_1Wd67GCquvztVaBwbf1k3H9vVmfrdM/s400/122-3+Bigger+Geysers+with+Microbes.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />A bigger geyser with microbial growth in the bottom left.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcU5TvilvhbPGFhT9VivvKsQBNNPMNmodQxN1QbSkiUgPlBLlMoeeeSl1046lfdfIGqZeW3xYBVQLH6__IIn40MiTWTwcz-8lKEqOr3NBV3pNl7oLcwie0cuaffuGOYmtgRecKs5FsqtzU/s1600-h/122-4+Thermal+Pool.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208473010194868978" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcU5TvilvhbPGFhT9VivvKsQBNNPMNmodQxN1QbSkiUgPlBLlMoeeeSl1046lfdfIGqZeW3xYBVQLH6__IIn40MiTWTwcz-8lKEqOr3NBV3pNl7oLcwie0cuaffuGOYmtgRecKs5FsqtzU/s400/122-4+Thermal+Pool.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Ahhh, warm (well, hot in one corner) spring at the geysers - around 4300m (14,300ft)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fshPxfZQCUxIhShxph4hlg4S8-H5pUXcwHgCdUZDwzqfm4G7HtpYmIjWft3wqcXm4XWVYNnNQql3SbFlYG2Y01nT3wPaV_c8qTUvdxZPtCXQrn3aAXmc-VgrRYoY4v9RnKcxeuOAtbfi/s1600-h/122-5+Mud+Bath.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208473014489836290" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fshPxfZQCUxIhShxph4hlg4S8-H5pUXcwHgCdUZDwzqfm4G7HtpYmIjWft3wqcXm4XWVYNnNQql3SbFlYG2Y01nT3wPaV_c8qTUvdxZPtCXQrn3aAXmc-VgrRYoY4v9RnKcxeuOAtbfi/s400/122-5+Mud+Bath.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Getting a mud bath<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggSSOZ8HGvdi9jdd4gryfyCWBnJoxiOnoffuhtdc6bpcUDPGq3CfrFjy3vWR6M9HbJ6SVeFW1uwauxBKnLuZrPuDg0QBeHQfGH5AG2caQ7ULKZ7Xu7RltfRggVh_pPYQjNKoyrI21Qx6Av/s1600-h/122-6+MIcrobes+Close+Up.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208472434669251186" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggSSOZ8HGvdi9jdd4gryfyCWBnJoxiOnoffuhtdc6bpcUDPGq3CfrFjy3vWR6M9HbJ6SVeFW1uwauxBKnLuZrPuDg0QBeHQfGH5AG2caQ7ULKZ7Xu7RltfRggVh_pPYQjNKoyrI21Qx6Av/s400/122-6+MIcrobes+Close+Up.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Micro-life close up<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjil8ag_wsy4bUG1lslNGLOhcQxMAlTfStUIPHZi0WBZO7wBRZMg8MVfzWB-hLbqmZTX2zquq0mFpF_Xghnou0v6f8FaDvN0h0XezaDgTOhbz_KdTsCs1xakAhgd_YNoZwEIOPVc1CgVXyC/s1600-h/122-7+Chapel+on+way+down.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208472434669251202" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjil8ag_wsy4bUG1lslNGLOhcQxMAlTfStUIPHZi0WBZO7wBRZMg8MVfzWB-hLbqmZTX2zquq0mFpF_Xghnou0v6f8FaDvN0h0XezaDgTOhbz_KdTsCs1xakAhgd_YNoZwEIOPVc1CgVXyC/s400/122-7+Chapel+on+way+down.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />A chapel on the way back from the geysers.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijY7YJGESvdZHYa4i8aOZZGNXIdFHDXO3chxq1IZpDmVGTO0pjxFjT2jQIvwgqYqQwYcXxe29-bVf0vSpCCf8l4kIIIEpRQu0Iau6i5g4w6rgZ3MptbNsRFRRrhkIC4AqRwuHQBpAlq-xV/s1600-h/122-8+Mmmm+llama+on+a+stick.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208472443259185810" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijY7YJGESvdZHYa4i8aOZZGNXIdFHDXO3chxq1IZpDmVGTO0pjxFjT2jQIvwgqYqQwYcXxe29-bVf0vSpCCf8l4kIIIEpRQu0Iau6i5g4w6rgZ3MptbNsRFRRrhkIC4AqRwuHQBpAlq-xV/s400/122-8+Mmmm+llama+on+a+stick.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Mmmm. Llama on a stick. The bus ride back - 122<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwz0ly3lH-LuP-tKYq0BYQzgEN9RwYBmBhktKfv395a5MsJwWxhNciW1iqpWoOzaekr-n6Yugnd-4e0oU0E1cXSHu_dawsYzTBo7Ou699cPuLkVomTKGvm6oVyrRpvHf4ld0gqXjL7iySJ/s1600-h/123-1+Entrance+to+Quebrada+del+Diabolo.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208472451849120418" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwz0ly3lH-LuP-tKYq0BYQzgEN9RwYBmBhktKfv395a5MsJwWxhNciW1iqpWoOzaekr-n6Yugnd-4e0oU0E1cXSHu_dawsYzTBo7Ou699cPuLkVomTKGvm6oVyrRpvHf4ld0gqXjL7iySJ/s400/123-1+Entrance+to+Quebrada+del+Diabolo.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Entrance to Quebrada del Diabolo - day 123.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqskvZUHqLRneJHrz1a5lPl-lAfn2uTOsgvX4lLrxUEVCDharN5GqGtuHUJ4Oey__Rs6FzVwurMzpUDLPkGP1WQprGWiNfNtRIONjLYf4zRUy4766V_3yhukopHNBHYO-HC8p1sx2qjHcY/s1600-h/123-2+Trail+in+Quebrada+del+Diabolo.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208472451849120434" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqskvZUHqLRneJHrz1a5lPl-lAfn2uTOsgvX4lLrxUEVCDharN5GqGtuHUJ4Oey__Rs6FzVwurMzpUDLPkGP1WQprGWiNfNtRIONjLYf4zRUy4766V_3yhukopHNBHYO-HC8p1sx2qjHcY/s400/123-2+Trail+in+Quebrada+del+Diabolo.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>The Quebrada.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7tgkmEX1_lCSji9p7-qCdwUYKlm9VYHO-LZyD-uWYBJDUnbJAJ_RDIaCS04xLSXn2ZJD384GTNBkiU2nQ_S3YPkvCKzLVNF_V3C7MFgdkQkDj5o5qSo5TrdIwHka51AhQvXx5X6H4vh0/s1600-h/123-3+Tight+Spot.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208471528431151650" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7tgkmEX1_lCSji9p7-qCdwUYKlm9VYHO-LZyD-uWYBJDUnbJAJ_RDIaCS04xLSXn2ZJD384GTNBkiU2nQ_S3YPkvCKzLVNF_V3C7MFgdkQkDj5o5qSo5TrdIwHka51AhQvXx5X6H4vh0/s400/123-3+Tight+Spot.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />A tight spot.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieypC65dt0PchDtzMaKzLZJY2dFyH794ehf8fjRJg_x3xM5mFngS0JXrhPbVlvsmjFFI23Qf0sboomNMFlmyRQMqtbfVwuPfnfVrNOoQelGJZrD2csXOhxJXcGFMTBy9hCCAGh6ORU4l_b/s1600-h/123-4+Inca+Fortress+outside+S+Pedro.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208471528431151666" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieypC65dt0PchDtzMaKzLZJY2dFyH794ehf8fjRJg_x3xM5mFngS0JXrhPbVlvsmjFFI23Qf0sboomNMFlmyRQMqtbfVwuPfnfVrNOoQelGJZrD2csXOhxJXcGFMTBy9hCCAGh6ORU4l_b/s400/123-4+Inca+Fortress+outside+S+Pedro.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Anti-Spanish fortress near S. Pedro and near the Quebrada.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP1tYoPbb0XDJITZ-QAK3eKVl60BIWEgtZ1-fncWu6Sa4Rb8DUp-XSbtAsOGR4Qi9rkDbzvMvHDa2mugeVrCjVFwh6c3tiwdwfr5zx1RsHabk8JDOgrLcAxC41r_QOohjbBVNe6wfuWTzh/s1600-h/124-1+Climbing+to+Licancabur.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208471537021086274" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP1tYoPbb0XDJITZ-QAK3eKVl60BIWEgtZ1-fncWu6Sa4Rb8DUp-XSbtAsOGR4Qi9rkDbzvMvHDa2mugeVrCjVFwh6c3tiwdwfr5zx1RsHabk8JDOgrLcAxC41r_QOohjbBVNe6wfuWTzh/s400/124-1+Climbing+to+Licancabur.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Heading out near V. Licancabur - day 124.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVAL4zoYtjSXJ48z0GFqYr8bOGplnjm95UKf0JbOAEpcycLb6lXGCUZOM6VnoS9gqbWyXPnlw6xF2Q76K8oSXeKjMz4-rZRE1uB4RZRWOLyRWqBbnaqYI3unSFjGnDtVtu4yqIvak7bZP/s1600-h/124-2+Solo+Canadian.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208471537021086290" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVAL4zoYtjSXJ48z0GFqYr8bOGplnjm95UKf0JbOAEpcycLb6lXGCUZOM6VnoS9gqbWyXPnlw6xF2Q76K8oSXeKjMz4-rZRE1uB4RZRWOLyRWqBbnaqYI3unSFjGnDtVtu4yqIvak7bZP/s400/124-2+Solo+Canadian.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The solo Canadian lady heading towards Tierra d Fuego as we're heading up Paso de Jama - 124.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6XLw-TA78RV60eV5Ow9Y5npLNwFi1hkVQoBa-cTbplBGh1dlGJHDwEHwLdX44GRH96aSWy8UvAMl98uphD1f6rPSRdbkfB2LQ8n-gaLnDQa_CrvWjWAfyH9OzIX7eWFXe5Q8AMgN_X1KB/s1600-h/124-3+Keep+Climbing.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208471541316053602" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6XLw-TA78RV60eV5Ow9Y5npLNwFi1hkVQoBa-cTbplBGh1dlGJHDwEHwLdX44GRH96aSWy8UvAMl98uphD1f6rPSRdbkfB2LQ8n-gaLnDQa_CrvWjWAfyH9OzIX7eWFXe5Q8AMgN_X1KB/s400/124-3+Keep+Climbing.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Riding up, w/moon<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0H2_pHDsgWN8ml9E9KH1BZqsBZ927AFa3tTsrR1I-9QpPMOmZx66qSQQ-r1ctntW6QWTd-4r7WrGwg0wD9v9mpp3XzARjTdyp1HFDDcIB5VZ1c1Ihgm5NhzloCwYepdCWpnPQjLb7zg1/s1600-h/125-1+Cars+heading+to+Paraguay.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208471038804879826" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0H2_pHDsgWN8ml9E9KH1BZqsBZ927AFa3tTsrR1I-9QpPMOmZx66qSQQ-r1ctntW6QWTd-4r7WrGwg0wD9v9mpp3XzARjTdyp1HFDDcIB5VZ1c1Ihgm5NhzloCwYepdCWpnPQjLb7zg1/s400/125-1+Cars+heading+to+Paraguay.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Interesting load of vehicles for Paraguay - day 125<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTDXAvVqKwPbV2xYhb4d_XZAL7UwGWDRPkeXMrhyphenhyphend4T14hT6BIiph7XWsrXefsbB5iARSkOoNq_pC8qomvbxE_EU_WgYpDPBzVbDQuiLOWHpa0bnaZI0W4jcrDWJOLE3BFdTxgXR_bKOjY/s1600-h/125-2+Bolivian+Border.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208471043099847138" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTDXAvVqKwPbV2xYhb4d_XZAL7UwGWDRPkeXMrhyphenhyphend4T14hT6BIiph7XWsrXefsbB5iARSkOoNq_pC8qomvbxE_EU_WgYpDPBzVbDQuiLOWHpa0bnaZI0W4jcrDWJOLE3BFdTxgXR_bKOjY/s400/125-2+Bolivian+Border.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Bolivian Border Post<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5-2i4PRJ1ng8xIjxqOwMgpOITZMD1exmxvsb48YHW7CAT8frxNl_aOgY-nj9HaA8tzDRlo1rRTu_3GpcxdSJe8N6CjmcdjdHqxCITSz8i_gMwROYyDVzi0ZRYJlEZo6L413yQk9xnivdV/s1600-h/125-3+Laguna+Blanca.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208471043099847154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5-2i4PRJ1ng8xIjxqOwMgpOITZMD1exmxvsb48YHW7CAT8frxNl_aOgY-nj9HaA8tzDRlo1rRTu_3GpcxdSJe8N6CjmcdjdHqxCITSz8i_gMwROYyDVzi0ZRYJlEZo6L413yQk9xnivdV/s400/125-3+Laguna+Blanca.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Laguna Blanca<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitokbsW2o_S3umY4ciofXlVtGLeFB7jujDdMpuGYFE7iJt0h6srrHT4cK2Z7Y84kpO8N8YZ9lZwWW0tvHkCdvyu3GKlloJ50U0OwC9lvvXgDOotHK9GVTBsbaW5WftSFwbi_lEWnZYPdyH/s1600-h/125-4+Laguna+Blanca+Bolivia+Sign.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208471047394814466" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitokbsW2o_S3umY4ciofXlVtGLeFB7jujDdMpuGYFE7iJt0h6srrHT4cK2Z7Y84kpO8N8YZ9lZwWW0tvHkCdvyu3GKlloJ50U0OwC9lvvXgDOotHK9GVTBsbaW5WftSFwbi_lEWnZYPdyH/s400/125-4+Laguna+Blanca+Bolivia+Sign.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />This is my land, Bolivia, Welcome.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGYxgDPeirfEzZcco3YhqTTZiHZYDma_4rWjEn_T4cLaOy5q1jmBTCBmPGGNL3mnr8hN0DHtVx1KlcaawLKb_tLb8ZQOwcjEaZXHelAH6qSK3Ik4tudSCae1ljcgx7FZXPvfY9ZXysPrAA/s1600-h/125-5+Laguna+Verde+and+the+Gang.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208471047394814482" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGYxgDPeirfEzZcco3YhqTTZiHZYDma_4rWjEn_T4cLaOy5q1jmBTCBmPGGNL3mnr8hN0DHtVx1KlcaawLKb_tLb8ZQOwcjEaZXHelAH6qSK3Ik4tudSCae1ljcgx7FZXPvfY9ZXysPrAA/s400/125-5+Laguna+Verde+and+the+Gang.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Finally found Laguna Verde and Licancabur - the 4 of us (L-R Gudrun, Dave, Yours Truly, and Jan-Willem)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMfz7TM0no_DR96xrcfRiWtDaLWagEhmXpu_j-1CaA_6nMaDCLz8fpHkHijlZ4NwHboOgVCA8Z5yw3_y4ocaHYS9_NoDrCn2oOsLBAGq2AbYAdViNmCYh8tYVAvlH_D3KpFBIR4DLTXNoL/s1600-h/126-1+Amazing+Colors.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208470063847303554" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMfz7TM0no_DR96xrcfRiWtDaLWagEhmXpu_j-1CaA_6nMaDCLz8fpHkHijlZ4NwHboOgVCA8Z5yw3_y4ocaHYS9_NoDrCn2oOsLBAGq2AbYAdViNmCYh8tYVAvlH_D3KpFBIR4DLTXNoL/s400/126-1+Amazing+Colors.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Amazing colored mountains - day 126<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSUJf688CYdqd__wM2xOAe3c1fbvGOLAchd39m8kihILOaFmTU8TrHIi9uU3zMbzV4EOlmOgfkTRFHAZh0DT-5M6h-EfMHj854xIpqSGsVtMWaWsQDjQD8n35s1RQI0alVVG3X1n-zT8v/s1600-h/126-2+Dali+Rocks+and+Vicuna.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208470068142270866" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSUJf688CYdqd__wM2xOAe3c1fbvGOLAchd39m8kihILOaFmTU8TrHIi9uU3zMbzV4EOlmOgfkTRFHAZh0DT-5M6h-EfMHj854xIpqSGsVtMWaWsQDjQD8n35s1RQI0alVVG3X1n-zT8v/s400/126-2+Dali+Rocks+and+Vicuna.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The Dali Rocks and Vicuna <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8eUdFce5PXqb93TEilyev8dWUEV3WpdlksVeL9qaq4mbtVwkAqNAMRH05b9DGg7XcBF9tOE1VpxSfRYBHhGsw-w1Vlc9YD9CCIxemo9kn-_oiZxganztYSxCJS9thu0ttI1pdkrChvgC/s1600-h/126-3+J-W+and+G+and+the+road+ahead.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208470068142270882" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8eUdFce5PXqb93TEilyev8dWUEV3WpdlksVeL9qaq4mbtVwkAqNAMRH05b9DGg7XcBF9tOE1VpxSfRYBHhGsw-w1Vlc9YD9CCIxemo9kn-_oiZxganztYSxCJS9thu0ttI1pdkrChvgC/s400/126-3+J-W+and+G+and+the+road+ahead.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Just keep going that way - J-W and G<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-yYn3COwF_TIZE0G1MNJKWAHmTRwSPNxgUTpxen4hC4fko3sIKDuzRouHVA4vwKv26wzf3F6zZOydcISyfSklxvVvK4pdbFcw_wWT25qgVtxLlGalIced6HnY76mZnydLjOAJ56_7zL9/s1600-h/126-4+More+Vicunas.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208470072437238194" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-yYn3COwF_TIZE0G1MNJKWAHmTRwSPNxgUTpxen4hC4fko3sIKDuzRouHVA4vwKv26wzf3F6zZOydcISyfSklxvVvK4pdbFcw_wWT25qgVtxLlGalIced6HnY76mZnydLjOAJ56_7zL9/s400/126-4+More+Vicunas.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />More Vicunas<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwyPa5wcWhEq4S7F2vUHe9MhEAYYSadwL1qjpcefSIivRo5u66nAmxOeF8F_FCDuGy0PP5J6m6vtm0ilfttK2SmCpGh_G9Q_F8Yti4Pto8MRYFqHUYh8CRuCWVbMRP7rJ7kseFJlnXg-9g/s1600-h/126-5+Thermas+Polques.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208470072437238210" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwyPa5wcWhEq4S7F2vUHe9MhEAYYSadwL1qjpcefSIivRo5u66nAmxOeF8F_FCDuGy0PP5J6m6vtm0ilfttK2SmCpGh_G9Q_F8Yti4Pto8MRYFqHUYh8CRuCWVbMRP7rJ7kseFJlnXg-9g/s400/126-5+Thermas+Polques.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The thermal springs at Polques at dusk.<br /><br /><div>Week 18 - Mostly in San Pedro de Atacama<br />Day 120 – May 10<br />Plenty of stuff to do around here. But the key word is "around". Do some basic housekeeping first thing and then head out to the bike store for my wheel. Not ready yet. Drat. OK, more boring stuff, another trip - finally around 3pm it is ready. Only problem is I don't like it. It's really true and all, but asymmetrical. And I like symmetry. I asked them to skip every 4th hole on the hub when building, but sometimes there's 4 spokes and a hole, sometimes 2 - I'm worried enough about this wheel making it to Uyuni as it is. They assure me it's OK, but I still redo it myself upon returning to the hostel.<br /><br />Not much time left for exploring the area, but after rethreading 5 spokes, the wheel is symmetrical at least (but still pretty scary - some spokes only have 5-6 threads in while others have 5-6mm poking out the end of the nipple. Hope this works. I may be able to slightly alter the pattern to reduce the spokes sticking out. We'll see how it holds).<br /><br />Anyway, the wheel is built - time to try it out. The sun is setting soon, so the best place to be is Valle de la Luna. It's about a 15km ride and at first there's not all that much to see but then you round the bend and see a hilltop covered with people and figure - this must be the place. And so it is - amazing rock scenery all around. Unfortunately I missed the sunset, but the afterglow is still astounding. Some say even better. Jan-Willem and Gudrun from Holland and from way-back on the Carretera Australe - have made it to town so we have a bit of time to discuss plans for Bolivia.<br /><br />Day 121 -<br />When in a tourist trap, you have to do the obligatory tourist crap. Today, sandboarding is on the agenda. Actually, it's pretty fun and a lot of work. No lifts to take you up the dune (btw - there are some dunes around here - scattered among the rock formations. So Dave and I spend the morning splitting a sandboard - definitely the way to go. One person rests on top while the other applies wax to the board, attempts to get down without falling, then heads back up and rests.<br />It is like snowboarding, only you just wear socks (helps with the sand) - no bindings - and the sand behaves quite a bit differently. Let's just say in 3 hours I never did get the hang of turning, but I cut a mean diagonal across the face of the dune.<br /><br />Had to return the board around noon, so for the afternoon, headed to Laguna Cejar (eyelash - I think). Actually it's 2 lagunas and they're extremely saline. Basically, the local version of the Dead Sea - jump in and you float. Unfortunately, it's late fall so neither the air nor the water were particularly comfortable - both around 23C. This was more for scientific curiousity and - it's true. You jump in and float.<br /><br />Only problem is how to get out.<br /><br />Turns out the laguna has a very bizarre shoreline - what you stand on looks a bit like a mushroom - curling away from you into the water and you can't see bottom. I had to walk around quite a bit to find a suitable spot where I figured I could get out without incident. Got in, and floated around for awhile and got out.<br /><br />Later I had assistance getting out so I could shoot a short video.<br /><br />Definitely be careful - I still managed to cut myself on the salt getting out and it hurts [still hurts as I write this over 2 weeks later - things heal slowly here at altitude]. Definitely wear sandals, too.<br /><br />Then I found the other laguna pretty much has a beach, not to mention a thermal source but it's really weird - the top 15cm or so are cold, while the water beneath is quite nice. So got in here, too. It's actually hard to stay vertical - the water keeps making you want to float to where it's cold.<br /><br />Well, that was about all the excitement for today. Dinner with J-W and G and San Pedro may be expensive, but they do have some awesome restaurants. Just not a lot of heat unless you're near the fireplace.<br /><br />Day 122 -<br />Geysers - geysers - geysers.<br /><br />One of the prime attractions here - the obligatory 4am departure to see the Tatio geyser field. It's about 90km away up a gravel road to around 4300m. And it's cold. The sun hitting the steam escaping is pretty neat - plus there's a thermal pool you can swim in - otherwise I'd probably stick to Yellowstone for grandeur. But it's worth the trip.<br /><br />Choose your operator carefully, though. Not that you'll have much info to go on, but I definitely wouldn't use ours again. I figure, a nice 4 hour bus ride with a few stops, plus potential thermal bath, I'll wear my sandals (& fortunately socks). Get in the bus, so far so good.<br /><br />Get moving and it's time for more sleep, only it gets colder and colder and colder. Outside, temps are probably -10 or -15 by the time you get to altitude and it turns out this particular bus has no heat - just 20 or so live bodies all breathing, all condensing on the windows. The poor driver gets to scrape a small opening in the windshield every minute or so so he can see the hairpin gravel road ahead. I was definitely displeased with their safety committment, but in the end all worked out OK - once my feet thawed.<br /><br />It is a great sight, but I'd probably not go for another trip (I'll definitely do Yellowstone again, given the chance, though).<br /><br />Day 123 -<br />Well, last day in San Pedro and it's mostly getting gear ready for the next adventure - Bolivia. Dave went to Calama for shopping while I enjoyed the geysers. Nice guy. He said it sucked. Sorry. At least he didn't freeze on a bus. So today, it's just getting a few residuals, final bike overhaul, and in the afternoon, time for one final ride. I decide to head for Quebrada del Diabolo (Devil's Canyon). I'm not expecting too much, and actually it's not that easy to find. Fortunately, I meet 2 other hostel-guests coming back so they tell me where to go. It's about 6-7km north of town, just after you cross a fairly deep stream - a right turn-off at a small white circular sign (which doesn't indicate anything). You can ride the stream, as the guests said, although your pedals and possibly bottom-bracket will be underwater which I definitely didn't want - oh well - stick to rentals.<br /><br />The canyon is pretty amazing - really, really narrow - in some parts you're actually under the rocks / compacted mud, as you come around corners. After a km or so you need to go up about 2m over a narrow rocky slot - not rideable, but the rest is really decent, if flat, singletrack MTB territory.<br /><br />On the way, you'll pass a kind of fortress - last stronghold of local native / Spanish resistance. Worth a look, although I didn't have any time (Quilmes was probably more impressive).<br />Final dinner with J-W and G as we plan our 4-person exodus to Uyuni. It's gonna be great.<br /><br />Day 124 -<br />It's amazing how time just flies by - it's already been 5 days since we arrived here and there's still a few places to visit - but we really need to be moving on to Bolivia. So today is the day. Need to get that early start so we can really attack the climb out of town. Early start. Only problem is I still need to send out quite a few emails, we need some food, need to do a final DVD backup of the remaining pictures before we enter bolivia, and need to mail a package back home. Well, at least by 8am I'm in a cafe with WiFi and by 11am Dave's buying food while I'm mailing the package. Ah the postal service - not too fast in any country, but at least here I can mail directly from the post office without having to find a customs agent (the dude at the post office apparently is the customs agent although he never actually looked inside my box). Anyway, he was in absolutely no hurry to get my package on its way, so by 11:45 we're finally leaving town.<br />We're doing this stretch with Jan-Willem and Gudrun who we met back in Villa OHiggins at the end of the Carretera Australe - or about 2.5 months ago now. They've already left and we're perhaps an hour behind. First stop is the Chilean border checkpoint who are pretty quick to get us through, and then the pass pretty much starts right away.<br /><br />San Pedro is a bit under 2500m and today will be all uphill. By noon we're at the base of things and the rest of the day is basically a study in the art of starting slow and going slower. At least we have a tailwind.<br /><br />We eat lunch on the hillside and by around 3pm we see J-W and G ahead of us. And notice they're not moving. Eventually we catch up to them and there's a 3rd person - a Canadian lady who's doing a solo trip from Anchorage all the way down, save for bits of British Columbia she's already cycled. Wow. Only took her 10months to get here, and she still wants to head to Ushuaia (now with winter nearly here - must be one of those crazy cyclists). So we exchange a few stories and eventually continue.<br /><br />The climb starts out around 4% or so and gets steeper - but it is all paved and I don't think we ever exceed 9%. It is relentless - we spend all day climbing and San Pedro is still in full view. By around 5:30 we decide enough is enough. The sun is low on the horizon and it's getting pretty cold. Even in San Pedro it's been unseasonably cold - around 25C basking in the afternoon sun. But at night it's closer to 0C and up here at 3950m (13000ft) it will be well below freezing. We get camp up pretty quick and soon are enjoying hot drinks and a hot meal.<br /><br />Beautiful view of the Atacama - still not a final one though, more climbing is ahead.<br /><br />Day 125 -<br />Not quite caught up, but this is another live report from inside a chilly tent. Temps outside are probably around -10C already and I'm guessing we may hit -15 to -20 tonight (between 5 and -4F). But it's very dry and at this altitude the air doesn't hold or carry away that much warmth so it still seems managable. But I am wearing my long-johns, cycling tights, 2 pairs of socks, 3 layers on top plus cap and neck warmer all inside my sleeping bag. Should be interesting. Just like today was...<br /><br />We begin partway up Paso de Jama around 3950m and continue where things left off yesterday. I thought summit was around 4500, I thought wrong. This becomes obvious when we hit 4500 without an end in sight, but San Pedro is still beckoning us to turn around and enjoy a high speed descent into a nice warm desert.<br /><br />We resist and continue up and up. Finally around 4630 we hit our summit (the actual road continues to over 4800m) - and a nice green sign saying "Bolivia" - [turn left]. It's almost painful to leave a wonderful paved road - complete with shoulders and the first runaway truck ramps I've seen down here. So we prolong the inevitable by enjoying lunch at the summit. Gudrun is noticing the altitude a bit - loss of appetite and weak, but eventually we all acclimate and head for Bolivia. It's about 5km from the main road and there are actually road crews grading the gravel - some of the smoothest, hardest pack we've hit - at least for a few hundred meters.<br /><br />And then we're there - a small steel marker labeled "Chile" and a ramshackle Bolivia border outpost. And things get a bit interesting. Everyone else has a non-US passport, even Dave who's barely left the US and never seen the Ireland who's passport he carries. They all have no questions - just border formalities. And then there's me. The US isn't too popular these days so Bolivia and quite a few other countries have decided to subject us to the same types of harassment their citizens deal with when trying to visit the US. The nerve of some countries.<br />Actually, it's not really that bad - from us they just want money, we subject them to far worse.<br /><br />Unfortunately, they can't handle US migrants here - only in Uyuni which is still 8 days away. But despite not having a visa, they still let me pass and tell me to report to immigration in Uyuni to pay my $100. I was actually expecting a lot worse and going through possible bribe scenarios in my mind and had Dave carry my extra cash and camera. In theory I need a letter of invitation, hotel reservations, bank statements, certificates of immunization (the kind of stuff we expect from visiting Bolivians). I only have 2 of these, but in the end they didn't ask for anything - very, very friendly actually.<br /><br />And then we're in Bolivia. And the cold continues. The mercury only hits 10C briefly and the afternoon is a gradual cooling until around 5 when we're around 5C. But the scenery is just amazing - mountains and lakes of all colors, almost no vegetation and yet quite a few animals - birds, foxes, vicunas. And all the shimmering lakes under thermal inversions in the distance. Even the road isn't too bad - certainly no worse than Paso de Sico, which is good - I really don't want my new, untested, rear wheel failing out here.<br /><br />A few km down the road and we hit the National Park entrance. And another fee - but both the border and park fees are reasonable - totalling under $10. And so we make it to Laguna Blanca - or is it Laguna Verde - this proves to be the most challenging hurdle of cycling in these remote parts - lots of desert tracks and very few signs. We scout the road but still aren't quite sure. Fortunately we have good descriptions from other cyclists as well as Lat/Long coordinates and my phone's GPS (which I'm also using to record our progress, so hopefully eventually there will be quite detailed maps online). This really helps us decide which route to take at one point and eventually we find Laguna Verde - right where it should be at the foot of Volcan Lilancabur. So we set up a windy, but beautiful camp overlooking the lakes and quickly retire to our tents as temps are already near freezing before the sun even sets. We make warm drinks 3 times as we eat and play cards in J-W and G's spacious tent. A fun ending to an amazing day.<br /><br />Day 126<br /><br />Did I say it was chilly yesterday, I meant <a href="mailto:%@#$">%@#$</a> cold. Wow, I bet the mercury fell to -17C or maybe a bit less. Probably my coldest night in a tent. It really wasn't too bad except I just couldn't keep my feet warm and figuring out how to position yourself so the air you breath isn't quite so cold is a bit of a challenge.<br /><br />I know I nodded off a few times, but I was really thankful when the sun reappeared despite little sleep.<br /><br />Still, I had it pretty good. Dave didn't fare so well - I heard him hacking away much of the night. By morning he was truly miserable, but we couldn't talk him into turning around - from here it's only a couple hours and really fun downhill back to warm sunny San Pedro. So the whole group perservered for another day.<br /><br />Jan-Willem and Gudrun did quite well with their 4-season tent and really warm bags. Just some condensation ice in the tent snowing onto their bags.<br /><br />The day went quite well - the roads are quite manageable, the scenery amazing, and we even had decent tailwinds. There's a small pass of around 4750m or so, but all goes fairly well. It's even almost warm during the day and we have to shed a few layers. After the pass, you see the next salar and also the rocas de Dali - Dali's rocks. Pretty much exactly what you're picturing - a fairly sparse scene with all these bizarre rocks just sticking up out of the ground for no apparent reason. Really big, complex boulders with hundreds of meters of featureless sand between them.<br />Dave is pretty morose. He really just wants to get to our destination - the thermal springs at Polques. Despite feeling like crap, he's out in front almost all day and is the first to arrive. Then he pretty much collapses in the refugio and continues a pretty miserable day. He's shaking and just happy to get back in his bag in a nice, indoor bed and withdraw for the night. No food and little drink. We're hoping things aren't too serious, but there's an amazing distraction for us - the hot springs.<br /><br />During the day, this place receives one jeepload after another, but now we have it to ourselves. For 15 Bolivianos (about $2.50) they clear out a bit of the floor for us and we have the springs to ourselves. And man, they are amazing - perfect bath water under an icy, cloudless sky. After about 90min, it's really time to get to bed. Just another game or two of cards.<br /><br />I'm recording our trips through the salar on my GPS/phone so I'll add to this when the trip is done. Basically, the road mostly heads north and is in pretty good shape for a Bolivian gravel road. One minor pass which goes fairly well and then the Dali rocks. All in all, a great day although Dave's impression is probably at the other end of the spectrum. Next week - the salar itself.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-20102800593284105292008-05-26T20:02:00.000-07:002008-06-02T15:27:58.138-07:00Week 17 - Paso de Sico - crossing the Altiplano to San Pedro de Atacama<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrdSnQeqyDBT1Jaq8NrdzZ6zl2OUKpwwE52XcfCGLPHr-zIu-IXmVx9QkiO9FkbX1sJJwu1waOCoOL5g_4xBKNOyPhCHXHzAsQVXgiASYWJC4WXtlP5Dg7HaCQ-zPvNLyx6rpdGjy8W4yh/s1600-h/113-1+Get+Ready+for+Dust.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207413609266669938" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrdSnQeqyDBT1Jaq8NrdzZ6zl2OUKpwwE52XcfCGLPHr-zIu-IXmVx9QkiO9FkbX1sJJwu1waOCoOL5g_4xBKNOyPhCHXHzAsQVXgiASYWJC4WXtlP5Dg7HaCQ-zPvNLyx6rpdGjy8W4yh/s400/113-1+Get+Ready+for+Dust.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Get ready for dust - getting up the pass day 113<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbwY7vBnRrjVGbuTNKIXzljoGdCRSMgFpTiddmaQpL7BSFWHnlRpd78thPVx7kHq171Q0Roaz2N1Xh-J4x_CPs0swyiBp5un3tM3_RwavQvin0BCwtVcyipk71C0gR_8k9aEgn1T3JEvGO/s1600-h/113-2+Camp+-+Windbreak+-+Cerro+Nevado.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207413222719613218" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbwY7vBnRrjVGbuTNKIXzljoGdCRSMgFpTiddmaQpL7BSFWHnlRpd78thPVx7kHq171Q0Roaz2N1Xh-J4x_CPs0swyiBp5un3tM3_RwavQvin0BCwtVcyipk71C0gR_8k9aEgn1T3JEvGO/s400/113-2+Camp+-+Windbreak+-+Cerro+Nevado.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Camp with a windbreak and Cerro Nevado in the background<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMox1cOTbzORSPZG5F63O86hxIVY2RHZzRpEVdptb3ULi-6xC4FUolAWcnsDzLpr8O4LqUWJFGZDworAok3S6VMRg89_mMHuKP93K53yyOog3bmXh7WxxEigIqfUrWtba-l8t0pkpkLyzQ/s1600-h/114-1+Getting+Near+the+Top.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207413227014580530" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMox1cOTbzORSPZG5F63O86hxIVY2RHZzRpEVdptb3ULi-6xC4FUolAWcnsDzLpr8O4LqUWJFGZDworAok3S6VMRg89_mMHuKP93K53yyOog3bmXh7WxxEigIqfUrWtba-l8t0pkpkLyzQ/s400/114-1+Getting+Near+the+Top.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Looking back down the road - day 114<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4D2B_i5PGhQePUAu4Lej-AmchW3uE1Uk5VQm2GLXFz56tKs8Tbs197AqOwURl37nKwJYkXiCxBmZSoJSaqMUCX6a-HpoW3Bws7gAw6e3re1LvF8HR90sARZjS8wF7mtWRDtveDWzOOhO/s1600-h/114-2+Hard+Climb.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207413231309547842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4D2B_i5PGhQePUAu4Lej-AmchW3uE1Uk5VQm2GLXFz56tKs8Tbs197AqOwURl37nKwJYkXiCxBmZSoJSaqMUCX6a-HpoW3Bws7gAw6e3re1LvF8HR90sARZjS8wF7mtWRDtveDWzOOhO/s400/114-2+Hard+Climb.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Hard climb<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-DBTVD7v4Nauuvz5w19ho1PWWiVVp4FLKElAMolWhVfN3AoqqiqAn83B27yg09MEEtUL7YwBsqP9K_uRN1V5QnIvqvjHlQH2BT7wGrbe5rHaSC-D5A_9_ogKlfDtyfe0Pj9e2CEmdVv6/s1600-h/114-3+First+Pass.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207413235604515154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-DBTVD7v4Nauuvz5w19ho1PWWiVVp4FLKElAMolWhVfN3AoqqiqAn83B27yg09MEEtUL7YwBsqP9K_uRN1V5QnIvqvjHlQH2BT7wGrbe5rHaSC-D5A_9_ogKlfDtyfe0Pj9e2CEmdVv6/s400/114-3+First+Pass.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />First summit - 114</div><div><br /><br /></div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div><br />Straight road ahead<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiki2etS4SWrSt1UhaSyCrWaHrSDFm5MhZi_nXLRLDA_YAtnrSC4m3tTTweUFL4nfSR43zO8_jSihe98RuwF_9EDQpEwiWIPxaTmLVonceZE2tSqy2Ie3HLJpvyjFPo-2TXlsj3IfqKmphY/s1600-h/114-5+Olacapato.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207412831877589218" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiki2etS4SWrSt1UhaSyCrWaHrSDFm5MhZi_nXLRLDA_YAtnrSC4m3tTTweUFL4nfSR43zO8_jSihe98RuwF_9EDQpEwiWIPxaTmLVonceZE2tSqy2Ie3HLJpvyjFPo-2TXlsj3IfqKmphY/s400/114-5+Olacapato.jpg" border="0" /></a> (ok, another image that disappeared)<br />Olacapato - day 115<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHo8v5VXgxeCejZxm_mANanARBmqSERmsbGBZ0wCTibKhmEOTcidU57PqdFIpPuFSU0Q7AFSiWl63jgKj-sF0a5_L5bko7oAOv9SoHOomiRBxfpi3Du8TxCugFpTtWMifu-Qz4DFkKG29Q/s1600-h/115-1+Interesting+Roadside+Art.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207412836172556530" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHo8v5VXgxeCejZxm_mANanARBmqSERmsbGBZ0wCTibKhmEOTcidU57PqdFIpPuFSU0Q7AFSiWl63jgKj-sF0a5_L5bko7oAOv9SoHOomiRBxfpi3Du8TxCugFpTtWMifu-Qz4DFkKG29Q/s400/115-1+Interesting+Roadside+Art.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Interesting roadside art<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgodUoaW07DHo2IbanqQLixVhyphenhyphen19lYUfG2r2uFZZ9zuhqFH_l3_QrNM0ak5HcraSlf6k7kbUD7C4CwN2SGekLGYVGV_useksz2VVBmiUHehOvJNY5C5s8NKMi7ORWQy92Hr8FwEg7KZHE7P/s1600-h/115-2+Abandoned+Town+Dessicated+Donkey.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207412840467523842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgodUoaW07DHo2IbanqQLixVhyphenhyphen19lYUfG2r2uFZZ9zuhqFH_l3_QrNM0ak5HcraSlf6k7kbUD7C4CwN2SGekLGYVGV_useksz2VVBmiUHehOvJNY5C5s8NKMi7ORWQy92Hr8FwEg7KZHE7P/s400/115-2+Abandoned+Town+Dessicated+Donkey.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Dessicated town and donkey - 115<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2-GJvG9b4jhXCYGRlgEQb_T-6h2CfwdSZULCSLi4gVu_1_YEej507e1NypAdtffXCNGM3vhPBqM1YUGSewPCtuMnoWWAa30hIua95Y-DR0bOO8CNHw5s9Lc5ASfk6MICIL9X7WZWz-oL6/s1600-h/115-4+Salar+de+Rincon.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207412844762491154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2-GJvG9b4jhXCYGRlgEQb_T-6h2CfwdSZULCSLi4gVu_1_YEej507e1NypAdtffXCNGM3vhPBqM1YUGSewPCtuMnoWWAa30hIua95Y-DR0bOO8CNHw5s9Lc5ASfk6MICIL9X7WZWz-oL6/s400/115-4+Salar+de+Rincon.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Salar de Rincon<br /><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzZeNRauhTN46r8N8l3iQOMkTF7pnlfZSFWOpc2dvbYpzx-syul-n0JibkRFjp26QEAXR0oSkz1oZ2Sgw6in66g5J0uOkQOwQxADv-ZnTTOk_q1Bo1bF5zk-tjyx1YkZPJSY5itJUm5IdX/s1600-h/115-5+The+Border.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411869804914818" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzZeNRauhTN46r8N8l3iQOMkTF7pnlfZSFWOpc2dvbYpzx-syul-n0JibkRFjp26QEAXR0oSkz1oZ2Sgw6in66g5J0uOkQOwQxADv-ZnTTOk_q1Bo1bF5zk-tjyx1YkZPJSY5itJUm5IdX/s400/115-5+The+Border.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Argentine Border Crossing<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHO5t_hXOVtiaeFaUQyUL4WAJmxrLBzKkdA-WE9lN_ty6RC7UopqLeXFip5R-jiTM7pN_RGEaEc_QGjSZ37m3iWV6mAAvq8_e6gRZKJgKtXJZqIHe69uRcW_ALstZen9Fksvd6ZZofa3aT/s1600-h/115-Grey+Road.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411878394849426" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHO5t_hXOVtiaeFaUQyUL4WAJmxrLBzKkdA-WE9lN_ty6RC7UopqLeXFip5R-jiTM7pN_RGEaEc_QGjSZ37m3iWV6mAAvq8_e6gRZKJgKtXJZqIHe69uRcW_ALstZen9Fksvd6ZZofa3aT/s400/115-Grey+Road.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Hard r<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_LlsVykrrqfBMwiu5GIMbzrvRekvmH6rO0zywby6h19J09vSSVdLmFu5rN55NUCxxKIuYyuS8EYdPbUJTN00lkzCNOhZouEO9jklybOXKl55fyCjxCJrdhN_jbY-_b0l9abZENtca0o5l/s1600-h/116-1+-+Friendliest+Border+Crossing+Ever.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411878394849442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_LlsVykrrqfBMwiu5GIMbzrvRekvmH6rO0zywby6h19J09vSSVdLmFu5rN55NUCxxKIuYyuS8EYdPbUJTN00lkzCNOhZouEO9jklybOXKl55fyCjxCJrdhN_jbY-_b0l9abZENtca0o5l/s400/116-1+-+Friendliest+Border+Crossing+Ever.jpg" border="0" /></a>oad - this should have been a bit earlier, oh well. Just brown and more brown.<br />Day 116 - the friendliest border crossing in the world<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU9YTjWNMKvIatOtIlM8Rr7Ou893ckos5Oi1I2oKOt7YSDNJ3Nh1ML3tIHwhYe7phvI10MvzxhrNefkhcYchWxfqjAhFihLY-BHpJrz3ZO98GStQb_N-BTf5HD-5qap7KqT51JFJt6EgUM/s1600-h/116-2+-+The+Actual+Border.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411882689816754" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU9YTjWNMKvIatOtIlM8Rr7Ou893ckos5Oi1I2oKOt7YSDNJ3Nh1ML3tIHwhYe7phvI10MvzxhrNefkhcYchWxfqjAhFihLY-BHpJrz3ZO98GStQb_N-BTf5HD-5qap7KqT51JFJt6EgUM/s400/116-2+-+The+Actual+Border.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Actual border - with my road spike<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb72VX17yU2eo4UyduKfBYDPAmtFHy2lC55jPOOOZLD2W5M1Kuaq3DoUDgpkUBrov-lm6suEi27-8Mwx5kJrWgunMBmkrS517KiLI1Awd3AuyfZSNxuJAzKNVfEp_aJNvJCQCGMzlNHu5C/s1600-h/116-3+-+First+Chilean+Salar.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411882689816770" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb72VX17yU2eo4UyduKfBYDPAmtFHy2lC55jPOOOZLD2W5M1Kuaq3DoUDgpkUBrov-lm6suEi27-8Mwx5kJrWgunMBmkrS517KiLI1Awd3AuyfZSNxuJAzKNVfEp_aJNvJCQCGMzlNHu5C/s400/116-3+-+First+Chilean+Salar.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />First Chilean Salar<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf8OFcZoE6VNIF2nAcIYEDr6r5hQZlnan9yGGaKlfTsU3uLnnBes6rN8srEyDNhaOggNkrXpqHqLJ-jAgDyAuajj6ZN8dRO9uy_D7v0wabR1MGQFPG09bQntFaovO1hrpkC2DBa-BHCkWu/s1600-h/116-4+-+More+Road.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411453193087026" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf8OFcZoE6VNIF2nAcIYEDr6r5hQZlnan9yGGaKlfTsU3uLnnBes6rN8srEyDNhaOggNkrXpqHqLJ-jAgDyAuajj6ZN8dRO9uy_D7v0wabR1MGQFPG09bQntFaovO1hrpkC2DBa-BHCkWu/s400/116-4+-+More+Road.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Just another road shot<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6B70NLRfTgQ28foQc8cSYn6fSj1A2DaEcszZWIQU2zXZQfLVl-B54HLAXTBuzc3Ivh0EirqvB2p7GJh6KFrMOD-JBb1YmflXGvPt0u999aNs_0IqNMTg7lQZ00MtJ2jp4KNFzZa1nTpf/s1600-h/116-5+-+Next+High+Pass+with+SAG.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411457488054338" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6B70NLRfTgQ28foQc8cSYn6fSj1A2DaEcszZWIQU2zXZQfLVl-B54HLAXTBuzc3Ivh0EirqvB2p7GJh6KFrMOD-JBb1YmflXGvPt0u999aNs_0IqNMTg7lQZ00MtJ2jp4KNFzZa1nTpf/s400/116-5+-+Next+High+Pass+with+SAG.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The pass past the SAG - Chilean - 116 <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqzrqF0Xx7Kg-a_xpBnH00vzUIPCDUuIfDAkhy0Wdm_F5cx_2x8g5pc-yU8DZ1Zz_fVddBKfQq0FvCrc1vIiVLXynT2vIpfeQeYRquIhYWIjrMwk70haCLFonuqIWLICO6ujip5iCtTcbx/s1600-h/116-6+-+Vicunas+close+up.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411461783021650" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqzrqF0Xx7Kg-a_xpBnH00vzUIPCDUuIfDAkhy0Wdm_F5cx_2x8g5pc-yU8DZ1Zz_fVddBKfQq0FvCrc1vIiVLXynT2vIpfeQeYRquIhYWIjrMwk70haCLFonuqIWLICO6ujip5iCtTcbx/s400/116-6+-+Vicunas+close+up.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />More vicunas<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT7dXtxcBp-YXTqxQdjUEjjh0-Gt_aEAXSsdN1Zgm8ORC4-oQ2p7XBQgXy7lwGWq0qxvdpF378DQw3h2yCjiCNnj3URNZ3ZhfWFamO9JY1SOrprRMUC9A4Xs0pz6KHohnwo9YmVOhK9RtZ/s1600-h/116-7+-+Mina+el+Loca.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411461783021666" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT7dXtxcBp-YXTqxQdjUEjjh0-Gt_aEAXSsdN1Zgm8ORC4-oQ2p7XBQgXy7lwGWq0qxvdpF378DQw3h2yCjiCNnj3URNZ3ZhfWFamO9JY1SOrprRMUC9A4Xs0pz6KHohnwo9YmVOhK9RtZ/s400/116-7+-+Mina+el+Loca.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Minas El Laco shortly after the border<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg78FS5vHCM4cED1aEGchnEeIFJyQhpJcvz0zXQOa8zCP03WOfipjBjFMmzvjeRROqG7guHwC5sElDWpaI6yCg5jq3JV8BNavfi2Kpqkv5Luwfrbi-pJiOzCbve-fou2-2NZ-53yZzdLITm/s1600-h/117-1+-+Dali+Rock+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411470372956274" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg78FS5vHCM4cED1aEGchnEeIFJyQhpJcvz0zXQOa8zCP03WOfipjBjFMmzvjeRROqG7guHwC5sElDWpaI6yCg5jq3JV8BNavfi2Kpqkv5Luwfrbi-pJiOzCbve-fou2-2NZ-53yZzdLITm/s400/117-1+-+Dali+Rock+1.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>What I´ll call Dali Rocks<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNMSHvTw1fMYlYAjy1U3puIDahaodGEEOkz_LYMge9WBEtOU7d147j74byHBKcm-ArFhDRkEh3-3vJjsG70cy5icmrkcV-oYdqR-ZUICLGcXICbFAoOlea4J6IZFKjBqDu2Ccx0KQUuqDc/s1600-h/117-2+-+Dali+Rock+2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411006516488162" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNMSHvTw1fMYlYAjy1U3puIDahaodGEEOkz_LYMge9WBEtOU7d147j74byHBKcm-ArFhDRkEh3-3vJjsG70cy5icmrkcV-oYdqR-ZUICLGcXICbFAoOlea4J6IZFKjBqDu2Ccx0KQUuqDc/s400/117-2+-+Dali+Rock+2.jpg" border="0" /></a> - day 117<br />Another shot of them<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mF0jRkXTUAz2vZSfcIGjAS9jPL9C6pfY709TDKV_0U1D1mk2OCNeQlIILdiRLTKa49dIcXaVQUnCesZ9VS2VGkK1_KrAdImdqLEwtvZvg0pjVAh3uxkLAckdnVkxcJHw9oEw_bF3yxgF/s1600-h/117-3+-+Morning+Reflection+-+Tuyaito.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411006516488178" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mF0jRkXTUAz2vZSfcIGjAS9jPL9C6pfY709TDKV_0U1D1mk2OCNeQlIILdiRLTKa49dIcXaVQUnCesZ9VS2VGkK1_KrAdImdqLEwtvZvg0pjVAh3uxkLAckdnVkxcJHw9oEw_bF3yxgF/s400/117-3+-+Morning+Reflection+-+Tuyaito.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Laguna Tuyaito - day 117<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEianwyyD9ulyuSmdX3Km3pjEafQQXnhyphenhyphenOKGVBQ3-2ZpOpaiKJn63-WcJi4IIcJO7_Ng_fXGxrWjcD0Y3rbXuveFh_1EdJWAJ8KM6E2GTb_G99age1aTvNQJhyphenhyphenw9NFwjcB8U3vEB-GHqAwbT/s1600-h/117-4+-+Evening+Road+to+Miniques.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411010811455490" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEianwyyD9ulyuSmdX3Km3pjEafQQXnhyphenhyphenOKGVBQ3-2ZpOpaiKJn63-WcJi4IIcJO7_Ng_fXGxrWjcD0Y3rbXuveFh_1EdJWAJ8KM6E2GTb_G99age1aTvNQJhyphenhyphenw9NFwjcB8U3vEB-GHqAwbT/s400/117-4+-+Evening+Road+to+Miniques.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The road to Miniques in the evening<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXm8JCs4btRFTq_xOfUHzGW_bv6-S5M5zhI74vEbvswnFCC9UJ4zKkNocgH5MdlbNYqbRT5L5rn9NBlPYi5fqMgvN-8rgdaI8us4ZYsVyKhWPnadQjXB7x5x7L7lOkqcDB-YnfVKZs8hZ/s1600-h/117-5+-+Miniques+w+Volcanoes.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411015106422802" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXm8JCs4btRFTq_xOfUHzGW_bv6-S5M5zhI74vEbvswnFCC9UJ4zKkNocgH5MdlbNYqbRT5L5rn9NBlPYi5fqMgvN-8rgdaI8us4ZYsVyKhWPnadQjXB7x5x7L7lOkqcDB-YnfVKZs8hZ/s400/117-5+-+Miniques+w+Volcanoes.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Laguna Miniques<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5aR5Tb6oTyhJGnx3tD48ILZWWTKLcRJMe5dM41OmChs8im_Gqvs7hwxhjdojFLyMypoi-7zOwkWjJPtEaaq9ahcDTML9vinPEoHhtCL8WXEhUER5Drxj-s3jhCWEjmDCJKmgTERYbzXhi/s1600-h/118-1+-+Miniques.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207411015106422818" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5aR5Tb6oTyhJGnx3tD48ILZWWTKLcRJMe5dM41OmChs8im_Gqvs7hwxhjdojFLyMypoi-7zOwkWjJPtEaaq9ahcDTML9vinPEoHhtCL8WXEhUER5Drxj-s3jhCWEjmDCJKmgTERYbzXhi/s400/118-1+-+Miniques.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Day 118 - lago Miniques<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhosK2DrpI6UXSmSeCBMe6vxKlXr5s_4nv_Q5YHN-70iWSbGURXYZuQmdhV5cI5flDoEO_JSlVZ1ttJJ3jbz7LLLGgIxsNHHs38dO118slukHW-NEOYi9P2ktrbNxooof8O7X81xe1boi6z/s1600-h/118-2+-+Diving+Down.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207410164702898066" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhosK2DrpI6UXSmSeCBMe6vxKlXr5s_4nv_Q5YHN-70iWSbGURXYZuQmdhV5cI5flDoEO_JSlVZ1ttJJ3jbz7LLLGgIxsNHHs38dO118slukHW-NEOYi9P2ktrbNxooof8O7X81xe1boi6z/s400/118-2+-+Diving+Down.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Diving down<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh82LHphTcSraNTX6ufoo1NDauKAmgdhqdF4tTk0mpgRc8lJsSxKDmSg80rk5T5qL5KqvVkGlX_skCtEmEE8yHNbFhB0BXJ8nDjIpOVQ4H9FVoObV2F50bmYU95wBSNGynnJmRTRIuLfDnx/s1600-h/118-3+-+More+Vicunas.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207410168997865378" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh82LHphTcSraNTX6ufoo1NDauKAmgdhqdF4tTk0mpgRc8lJsSxKDmSg80rk5T5qL5KqvVkGlX_skCtEmEE8yHNbFhB0BXJ8nDjIpOVQ4H9FVoObV2F50bmYU95wBSNGynnJmRTRIuLfDnx/s400/118-3+-+More+Vicunas.jpg" border="0" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_APowWVKUl_Ok5YecRjPzfKp1NGwIOoD1_XkVt_t2IKfu3gbQwj4O3WEQM_uJr7IeJH0INGZc-Zron-uD2N7JuWWuvBHqG5MzdDGLLef8g8lq0IcSDFTE3XjiCls1N27Vr3SM0jXWkhRU/s1600-h/118-4+-+Me+and+the+Atacama.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207410168997865394" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_APowWVKUl_Ok5YecRjPzfKp1NGwIOoD1_XkVt_t2IKfu3gbQwj4O3WEQM_uJr7IeJH0INGZc-Zron-uD2N7JuWWuvBHqG5MzdDGLLef8g8lq0IcSDFTE3XjiCls1N27Vr3SM0jXWkhRU/s400/118-4+-+Me+and+the+Atacama.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Vicunas everywhere<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS9sfmfD7nt8wJRB0L-S8sZUcnnqd6xmAcoZ377b63hzA-o6csf69SuKBT4cI-R7ux3oRI5XMTolUeetg7nxgIrU5svB90zhGhxplvhSUW1wNVyHW__cEA86y5mEe8osis66OJDMWlA4fu/s1600-h/118-5+-+Socaire+Church.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207410173292832706" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS9sfmfD7nt8wJRB0L-S8sZUcnnqd6xmAcoZ377b63hzA-o6csf69SuKBT4cI-R7ux3oRI5XMTolUeetg7nxgIrU5svB90zhGhxplvhSUW1wNVyHW__cEA86y5mEe8osis66OJDMWlA4fu/s400/118-5+-+Socaire+Church.jpg" border="0" /></a> and me with the Atacama in the background</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Socaire´s Church<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwukP9eLmtJ-uS9plPR846wD1x0EEvM4blBmwBMJQrOQp_PcXE6PrOoCFW92JBpJI-PyRGqTwYW3Li30g6tUcv7lP8GhShwGnli5tikLp4O5IRFhJIdnUZFu9H4_FCZ7NFPnrDdjSJYEpG/s1600-h/118-6+-+Atacama+Road.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207410173292832722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwukP9eLmtJ-uS9plPR846wD1x0EEvM4blBmwBMJQrOQp_PcXE6PrOoCFW92JBpJI-PyRGqTwYW3Li30g6tUcv7lP8GhShwGnli5tikLp4O5IRFhJIdnUZFu9H4_FCZ7NFPnrDdjSJYEpG/s400/118-6+-+Atacama+Road.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Road intersection<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9_DDPo9-QgkEU0xxYS2L1ClWll6GPKebI1S8vSF6uudkR5nTj3joscZtsa3OAOWEU874IuxytvEXmLL45oehbHj6ik1RVOfZnEWgRpbOOvLiZfamI8OM6R_Bzu3t2urrRxcn3T11YbqRS/s1600-h/118-7+-+Not+sure+of+this.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207409481803097922" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9_DDPo9-QgkEU0xxYS2L1ClWll6GPKebI1S8vSF6uudkR5nTj3joscZtsa3OAOWEU874IuxytvEXmLL45oehbHj6ik1RVOfZnEWgRpbOOvLiZfamI8OM6R_Bzu3t2urrRxcn3T11YbqRS/s400/118-7+-+Not+sure+of+this.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Odd little road marker<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlw3Ha8jlqSE42nPJBH-_6uGM-5gdBgEzPapzGenMgj1G0WIwWB5t5Nst7geO4g3REq0m20a3bc7zLNxmUh8IBVbH2V0VGRuxTq-virRkDlB_hGzHg_B2aNETAyML5jTF8EYNoFKcpKsO9/s1600-h/118-8+-+Water.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207409486098065234" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlw3Ha8jlqSE42nPJBH-_6uGM-5gdBgEzPapzGenMgj1G0WIwWB5t5Nst7geO4g3REq0m20a3bc7zLNxmUh8IBVbH2V0VGRuxTq-virRkDlB_hGzHg_B2aNETAyML5jTF8EYNoFKcpKsO9/s400/118-8+-+Water.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Water supply in the desert<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM-LFnfBLL7XSizL1hhS_NqIsHDGyOGElIqfb1KnQC-cVt-TW5yqXmpmvOQGAEtpflP_HfzWUagQIfeMgR76vxRSlPbugbbjB95pQsrYEbfbWBMsIqqoFcWJnRflUsXEpvODzINi_s8Y2D/s1600-h/118-9+-+Evening+Camp.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207409490393032546" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM-LFnfBLL7XSizL1hhS_NqIsHDGyOGElIqfb1KnQC-cVt-TW5yqXmpmvOQGAEtpflP_HfzWUagQIfeMgR76vxRSlPbugbbjB95pQsrYEbfbWBMsIqqoFcWJnRflUsXEpvODzINi_s8Y2D/s400/118-9+-+Evening+Camp.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Evening shot - camp in the Atacama<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8SJ0xHHJr4ztFLPKwx2txIdrPzblBrA_rlg-GapUb_QH1Hp9IBWlAHbyCTDZlA37r_ASCDpZ7_Bl0AetBPZzwfNfLEJd0F7Gk8ERvkUG2Nic7-KRyM6OKudi7ioZe7HIFBpM_8NHUGIAG/s1600-h/119-1+-+Alma+Project.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207409494687999858" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8SJ0xHHJr4ztFLPKwx2txIdrPzblBrA_rlg-GapUb_QH1Hp9IBWlAHbyCTDZlA37r_ASCDpZ7_Bl0AetBPZzwfNfLEJd0F7Gk8ERvkUG2Nic7-KRyM6OKudi7ioZe7HIFBpM_8NHUGIAG/s400/119-1+-+Alma+Project.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Day 119 - the Alma project<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg75FjLXJz2ZKC1SBRTwM94UDaTdJEkhPtzYAhVtt9WomX-jIWucYkLEGj_yxXTIMPyKWK5DoSLFaln0vg4Qws2r8TpjN4LYUasPp-Zl_3Weu5FNX-LB8II0sjLIqp9unBEIRJLrm2jC7OG/s1600-h/119-2+-+San+Pedro.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207409494687999874" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg75FjLXJz2ZKC1SBRTwM94UDaTdJEkhPtzYAhVtt9WomX-jIWucYkLEGj_yxXTIMPyKWK5DoSLFaln0vg4Qws2r8TpjN4LYUasPp-Zl_3Weu5FNX-LB8II0sjLIqp9unBEIRJLrm2jC7OG/s400/119-2+-+San+Pedro.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />San Pedro streetscape<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>WEEK 17 -<br />finally leave Arg. for good and head over Paso de Sico for the last few days of Chile<br /><br />Day 113 - May 3 -<br />Well, San Antonio held us a bit longer than expected, but there are quite a few things around town - quite pleasant although the weather is fairly extreme. It's just hard to get warm in the evenings - heating tends to be underpowered to non-existant: the 2kW unit in our cabin was having a hard time keeping temps much over 10C. Of course, things are only going to get more challenging as we head up and up.<br /><br />So today we are finally going to start heading for San Pedro de Atacama - crossing about 350km of Altiplano (High Plain), also known as desolation, to get there. And things aren't off to a good start. Abel stops by to serve us a local breakfast of liquid corn meal, goat cheese, and bread. Muchas gracias! It really is good and gracious of him to serve us. Only problem is that we have pass a few km out of San Antonio and winds tend to get worse in the afternoon. But eventually we're ready to leave and I discover I have a flat. Can't determine the cause. I'm down to my last spare tube (again, spare parts for anything but MTBs and some road gear is almost non-existant down here), so I ask Dave for a 26" (I have a 700c/28" wheel) - these usually work although I pinch it getting it on, so at least I get to patch something and then try again. By 12:30 we're finally heading out of town.<br /><br />By 2:00 we finish lunch at an abandoned structure just as the pass is getting going, and I determine my patch glue which looked a bit strange decided to yield under pressure during lunch. So another patch job and I just can't get the tube seated so finally I dig though my stuff, locate the final spare tube, and by, oh, 2:45 we're finally attacking the pass. We do cover pretty good ground, but I'm not in the mood for really high altitude camping yet and we're just not going to make this pass and down the other side with any daylight remaining, so we decide to camp after all of 18.4km at around 4200m (about 14000ft) on the way up the pass. Find a nice little, reasonably flat, spot on an abandoned road and decide to shoot for a better start tomorrow.<br /><br />For the past few days I've been playing with my phone and have decided to try to log the entire crossing of the Altiplano (it tracks position & altitude) and hopefully the crossing of the Salar in Bolivia, so watch this space for files which show the actual route and altitude profile (and our sometimes pathetic pace at crossing this challenging terrain). Only problem is keeping the phone well fed - GPS really eats up the batteries - even with my modified phone & external Li-Ion battery, I struggle to get more than 7-8 hours logged, so I'm trying to recharge using my solar cell along the way. We shall see how it goes.<br /><br />Day 114<br />Well, we do get a much improved start, we're moving before 10am and soon make summit. Good thing we didn't try this yesterday - our abused lungs are still acclimating to this rarified air. Gasping we make 4500m (about 14800ft) and are treated to something of a downhill, although the wind has picked up quite a bit and the road isn't too kind - lots of pushing. Plus Dave has a splitting headache, so in the end, just getting to Ocalapato turns into a bit of a challenge. We do finally arrive around 5:30pm. Town isn't much - but if you're in need here, the first, bright blue building when heading into town from the W is the police. He shows us the local Hospedaje and shop (not much on offer, but we do get some nice bread - plus the room is only 12Pesos - under $4, although heat is not included nor available - just lukewarm showers and a room temp around 6-7C). Still, cheap, indoor accomodation is welcome - it gets cold at night.<br /><br />Day 115<br />Well, getting to San Pedro is starting to stretch out a bit. We do get an early start - are on the road by just after 9am and it's still pretty cold - about -4C. Water around here tends to freeze-thaw every day - although there's not much water to mention - just a lot of yellow, ball-like plants that look nice and cushy but are actually brittle and thorny - I'm nursing a few pretty good splinters I got hiking up Cerro Nevado. The road out of town is fairly level and the air is calm as we set out with the sun still low. A beautiful ride. Even the road is pretty decent.<br /><br />After a few hours we've ascended a bit and drop into a magnificent sight - the Salar de Rincon - the road hugs the side of the hills and as far as you can see a white/brownish salt flat expands into the distance. We'll be following this for some time. Actually, a lot more time than anticipated - road conditions worsen a lot and soon we're stuck in sand and more sand, with some fairly extreme washboard to liven things up. It's only about 64km to the border checkpoint, but they're really drawing out. Along the way, a Swiss S&D vehicle passes us - another MAN based vehicle. They have it pretty easy, but I'm thinking - this thing has 600l Diesel tanks - or put another way, when full, this thing stores as much chemical energy as a person needs in about 8 years or so, and for that it moves maybe 2-3000km. Somehow I think these days are numbered. But anyway, the owners are quite cheerful - they've toured S.America as well as places like Lybia and Morocco, and they inform us that Jan Willem and Gudrun also decided to head this way and are about a day behind us. Hope they got an earlier start and don't get stuck on the pass.<br /><br />The rest of the day is along the Salar and finally a slight ascent on just perfect, perfect washboard (I like the Spanish word: serrucco - as in serration - the edge of a saw) - nice and deep - maybe 6", all the way across the road, and perfect tempo - about 2 pounding beats per second (picture an unending succession of speed-bumps) - to the friendliest border crossing in the world. We were informed about this place and are not disappointed. Immediately on arrival we're treated to Brazilian coffee and bread, given a place for the night complete with really nice shower and kitchen, and have our water filled up. All free. Just amazing hospitality in the middle of the desert and quite a few other cyclists have mentioned the same thing. Hopefully JW & G have the same experience tomorrow [they do]. Evening falls on another cloudless sky as the beautiful rock formations go dark and we eat the last of our fresh food - tomorrow is Chile and an unforgiving agricultural inspection point about 30km up the road.<br /><br />Day 116<br />Well - finally caught up again - I'm writing these words on day 116 from a nice cold tent in the middle of the desert. It's currently about 3C in this tent but I expect that to drop soon. Hopefully the water doesn't freeze solid - or worse burst anything.<br /><br />Today was pretty amazing. After border formalities at the world's friendliest checkpoint, we're off and immediately it's uphill. After about 300m vertical, we're at the actual border - just an imaginary line in the middle of the desert with a few nice signs to remind us. I need to relieve myself - a frequent occurance at borders - and after a few pics, and picking up another massive nail that Dave finds & I need as a souvenir (to go along with the railroad spike I found along the Tren de los Nubes) - hey these will make nice clothes hooks someday - we continue. The border truly is arbitrary - not even at a high spot, the road just keeps climbing and soon we make our first pass of the day - about the same as the first one leaving San. Ant. at near 4500m. Up to here, things were going pretty well, the road's not too bad and we even have a bit of tailwind.<br /><br />The tailwind soon ends, replaced by its complement, and the road drops to another big (but not as big as yesterday's) salt flat. And in the distance, half-way up the next pass, there it is - the Chilean agricultural inspection station - just sitting there, nothing for miles in all directions, and our lonely little road leading in pretty much a straight line for miles right to it. So we find some shelter from the wind and have lunch. And afterwards, it's still waiting for us - it's very patient as the road leading up to it is fairly bad and steep. We're mostly pushing our bikes. An hour or two later we arrive and the inspectors are quite jovial and have a hard time believing our trip through desolation here - don't we know how cold it gets at night here? But they fill up our water bottles and don't even bother with the inspection, just take our word that we have no contraband. Actually, I do have a little - some Pappoosa - a high alpine plant that I picked on Nevado a few days ago. Crushing and inhaling (or brewing into a tea) helps with altitude problems. But we ate our last apples a few miles back - from here it's all dried / packaged food until the next supermarket in a few days.<br /><br />Eventually, we leave the station (the actual border crossing where we need our passports is 200km and 2-3 days away in San Pedro) and continue up the mountain. The steep road gets a bit steeper - around 10% which doesn't sound like too much, but at this altitude and on gravel it's pretty punishing. More walking/pushing. At least winds aren't too bad. Eventually the slope relents a bit so I return to actual cycling. By around 5 we make the next pass - the highest one yet, and possibly for the whole trip - around 4600m (a bit over 15,000ft). Not bad with full gear - including a used horseshoe, railroad spike, and by now 3 big nails. I'm going to have a really nice set of hooks in a rustic bathroom someday. Hopefully I can mail this stuff instead of taking it all over Bolivia (of course, I've had the horseshoe since my first big pass to Chile & Los Angeles back in January). Unfortunately, in the process Dave has a bit of a down day - he damages his new camera - while pointing out a spike for me and falling off his bike in the process.<br /><br />The view from the top is amazing. And headwinds return. But at least we can burn up some of that stored energy on the downhill. Pass another mine (lots and lots of mines, active and abandoned, in this part of the world - suppose that even predates the Spanish invasion).<br />As we descend, it's getting late so after about 15km we settle on this amazing valley with what I'm guessing are rocks formed by lava flows - lots of bizzarre hollowed out slabs of rock (and lots of volcanos here - just got word that Chaiten - the town we first hit on the Carretera Australe back in February was evacuated due to an eruption). And it's cold and we're just glad to get some hot food in us and crawl into our sleeping bags - where I now sit and enter these words. A great day (well, Dave would disagree, but maybe he'll come around eventually). Good Night!<br /><br />Day 117 -<br />Another "live" report - from another chilly (in Chile!) campsite - this one overlooking Laguna Miniques - written about on various blogs so we felt we had to check it out. It's about 15km off the "main" road - i.e. you leave a so-so gravel road for a significantly worse gravel road - but amid all this desolation who's really keeping track.<br /><br />So back to this morning and after a somewhat frigid night with a lot of tossing and turning, we awaken to semi-frozen water bottles (inside our tents - my thermometer was reading around -5C / 24F). Well, awaken isn't the right word - it's not easy to get out of a sleeping bag - even if you're not completely warm - when you know even cooler conditions await outside. But we shake ourselves awake to some fairly amazing rock scenery I mentioned yesterday. After a frigid breakfast - where I poured a few ice-cubes out of my bottle and onto my cereal - we hiked around a bit for a closer look. Definitely worth the look - the individual rocks are amazing - like something out of a Dali painting.<br /><br />By around 10:45 we're moving again. And we're really moving this time - continuing our descent from yesterday to another salt lake (Tuyaito) - another 100m loss or so. Quite a pleasant way to start the day, especially after temps have recovered to well above freezing. From Laguna Tuyaito it's a bit of an up- and downhill to the next salt lake - and yet again we find flamingos - these birds are just everywhere down here. More amazing, rugged, desolate scenery, and soon we're at the turnoff to tonight's spot. I think we encountered 3 vehicles all day today - this is pretty remote - about on par with Paso Pichachen - the route to my cousin Dirk's place back in week 2. At least there are no river crossings - mostly because there are no rivers. Just dry beds and the occasional salt lake. But despite a shoreline of crusty salt, there is still vegetation growing here and animals feasting on it. Lago Miniques is host to an endangered bird species - need to look at the plaques hanging here again to remember the name - a black duck variety. There are plenty on this lake.<br /><br />We locate a walled corral (well, no roof, but wind protection is more important here) near the lake which is giving us some shelter tonight as the temps plummet again. Right now at 9pm it's 6C in my tent and falling. At least my sore throat has gotten a bit better - but this dessicating, dusty, and rarified air is probably not all that healthy for it - by the end of each day I definitely notice it.<br /><br />Well, another beautiful day and chilly night!<br /><br />Day 118 -<br />Keeping up with the live reports - despite not having electricity for a few days now - the solar cell is kinda working. I've been using unrecommended means to recharge things, but my phone is still up and tracking our course during the day - should be interesting to see how things line up with Google-earth. I wish I had had more time to prepare for the trip - especially regarding the bike and all this electronic gear we take with to share and remember the adventure.<br /><br />Yeah, the bike. I think it's acting up again - had a pretty good run of things since the first blow-up in week 4 - put on nearly 4000km on rough terrain since then. But the last couple of days, I've noticed my rear wheel brakes a lot better. Normally this would be a good thing you say, but not only does in brake better, it's almost easy to skid on gravel. Good again - except that I notice it tends to skid a certain parts of the wheel and on closer inspection - it seems the rim is slowly bending outwards from the tire pressure (why the brake catches in certain parts) - a pretty good sign it's getting weak and will soon have some major cracks and then failure. I kinda have a spare - just not the ideal one (not eyeletted, only 36 not 48-spoke). Oh well - gotta make do with what ya got - or in this case, can get in Argentina or Chile. I suspect tomorrow I'll be wheel building again and will keep the ol' Mavic around as a spare - it should have at least a couple 100 km in case I really break down somewhere.<br /><br />So far only belly aching, but actually, today was a pretty fine day. Spent the morning trying to get the perfect picture of one of hundreds of aquatic birds diving for..., well not sure - the lake seems much too saline for any fish - algae perhaps? [in fact, that is what most of the critters around here eat] After that it was a short climb out of the park where we encountered a ranger and Dave was stunned to learn the entrance fee is 12000 (about $25-30 depending on whatever the exchange rate is by now) - almost as much as Torres del Paine for a tiny little park a few km long with only a few birds on offer. We were tempted to weasel our way out, but decided to get a second opinion. Fortunately, "dos" (2) and "doze" (12) are easy to misunderstand and we get out with an affordable fee of around $4.<br /><br />Once out the gate at near 4300m you start to finally see this dessicated region in all its glory: the Atacama Desert, which I think is the driest on earth. I was expecting grand sand dunes, but this is more like Utah - lots of rock formations and not much vegetation - well, on the valley floor there's pretty much no vegetation except near a few stone lined mini-irrigation channels. Pretty neat constructs actually - wouldn't look out of place in some old stone-walled European city, but here you have miles and miles of these stone-and-mortar lined canals maybe 40cm across. Along them you see elaborate stone terraces. We pass Socaire - a small town about 800m above the desert floor and some locals are growing various vegetables, even corn.<br /><br />Socaire is our first sign of civilization in a few days - a chance for water and a cooked meal. There are several "restaurants", but not what we expect - they all cater to the tourist trade - providing tour buses with set meals at reasonable prices. The first one turns us down flat - they're fully reserved. The second didn't bother to open today but the third has a meal for us. We don't get to pick anything, but for only 3000 Pesos ($6-7) we get drink (apple nectar), soup (vegetable), main course (some kind of chicken filled squash with rice - really good), and a small dessert (banana and syrup). And after 3 days of living on dry and canned food, boy is it good. Even comes with the traditional Chilean giveaway - bread and a spicy salsa.<br /><br />After a decent meal it's time for a bit of food shopping followed by a decent descent. Soon we're cruising around 40-50km/h towards the desert floor around 2500-2600m. Lots of opportunity for amazing pictures. San Pedro is still 90km away and it's after 3pm, so we won't make it today, but we still clear about 50km to the next town with a quick dash for more food but no available camping. Finally we head out into the desert again and about 5km out of town find a little dune next to the road which hides us from sight but gives us full access to an amazing night sky. And then it's time to take stock - need to make a little repair on my modified phone (the supplemental battery has a loose connection), and inspect the bike - well I already covered that so now it's time to hit the sand.<br /><br />Day 119 -<br />Well, we do get a pretty decent start today. The road is nice and paved and even a hint of downhill as we head towards San Pedro de Atacama. On the way we pass Alma. What is Alma you might ask - which is exactly what we were thinking. There's this amazingly modern, almost cubist, white guard shack with plenty of solar panels and a few warning signs making it quite obvious that we are not welcome, but still piquing our curiosity. Behind the shack, a gravel road leads right up the side of the mountain to some amazingly large buildings at high altitudes. And it still continues up from there.<br /><br />So we head to the modern white cube and are greeted by a quite friendly guard. We're both equally curious about the other's situation so he finds out more about our trip and we find out Alma is a private (which I still find hard to believe), astronomical installation with radio telescopes high up the mountainside here - out of sight and over 5000m. In theory, if we're back in 4 years time we can visit as it should be open to the public by then. Well, you never know.<br />Another hour or so and we're finally at the border checkpoint and 2 full days after entering Chile, we finally make it official. The border guard is none to friendly, but the local agricultural inspector is great - into cycling, full of recommendations, and curious about our trip. Gives us a few tips and we're off into town which is about 2 minutes away.<br /><br />Have lunch at the local house of tea - probably the dumbest service on the planet. We order, Dave has a hot dog plus a regular hamburger and I have a hamburger special. Dave gets his special, then gets his hamburger. I get zilch. After another 20min or so I finally ask and the surprised cook mentions the 2 dishes already served so I point to the order and, oh yes, there are 3 dishes on there. Sorry. Another 20min, and I get Dave's hamburger again. Not quite sure on the details, I eat it and figure the rest of my order is still coming. Another 20min, I finally ask ask again - where's the rest? To which the response is what did I order? To which my response is what did I just eat? This is going nowhere. They offer to let me order more items from the menu - very generous of them, but we've been here long enough so we just pay for the items they actually served us and leave not to return over our time in SP.<br /><br />From here it's time for a place to stay. SP is full of them and most are quite expensive. Even camping will set you back 3500-4500 per person per night (right up there with the highest we've had on this trip), and no WiFi. We end up in the hostel which isn't too bad at 6000 for a bed. I finally take the bike apart and initially all looks well. Take off the tire and inspect the rim, still nothing. Finally take off the rim tape and there it is - lots and lots of cracks are propogating from one eyelet to the next on the inner wall. So far nothing severe, but it won't take long. I really doubt it will survive the salar, so for better or worse, time for a new wheel.<br />I guess that rim I've been carrying the last few weeks will finally come in handy - there is a bike shop in town but, again, nothing for 700 wheels. But they remove the freewheel for free and can lace up my wheel for only 3000 - quite a bargain. So I return, wheel and rim in hand. Tomorrow (next week), we'll see...</div></div></div></div></div>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-43791044687895480402008-05-26T19:59:00.000-07:002008-06-01T15:56:18.712-07:00Week 16 - Altiplano at last - San Antonio de los Cobres<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPOyvq55k9obP_KPyYP0xbWkoX2esC5W4fFeh71rXxLWZukKKlbtTefRHuArVhExr8k1cU9f07jck5aXhuktoJqF8fTqhftAgpt9mzrKgqDmGq4rO1fFGO2dyVhY6mFByDaENJk392DGsi/s1600-h/107+-+2+-+Colonial+Church.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207048013060499250" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPOyvq55k9obP_KPyYP0xbWkoX2esC5W4fFeh71rXxLWZukKKlbtTefRHuArVhExr8k1cU9f07jck5aXhuktoJqF8fTqhftAgpt9mzrKgqDmGq4rO1fFGO2dyVhY6mFByDaENJk392DGsi/s400/107+-+2+-+Colonial+Church.jpg" border="0" /></a> Again, editing this stuff with limited internet resources is ·$"% near impossible. So all the pics are here in almost chronological order.<br /><br /><br />Here´s the colonial church from day 107 that should have been further down but got deleted for unknown reasons and is now here.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMFVb7YnmATWm8uSQ1IjpYmMLmTr5ECM7iXvTf_Bk4H70zJFwNtrD8cGDRJxGKgLjlkABPkGxrCjpBUFKq21z54vQ7KzgpZfWvdpAzUcTVY_GvIi-tkum8iQFpyjSIvEWHLlFgBwxKSaLq/s1600-h/106+-+1+-+nice+gradual+ascent+-+note+how+camera+defect+has+moved.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207047514844292866" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMFVb7YnmATWm8uSQ1IjpYmMLmTr5ECM7iXvTf_Bk4H70zJFwNtrD8cGDRJxGKgLjlkABPkGxrCjpBUFKq21z54vQ7KzgpZfWvdpAzUcTVY_GvIi-tkum8iQFpyjSIvEWHLlFgBwxKSaLq/s400/106+-+1+-+nice+gradual+ascent+-+note+how+camera+defect+has+moved.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The start of the climb and my camera defect is in a new spot in the sky - this was the picture that clued me into the problem - just bang on the camera and move the spot. Day 106<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdVf8BDNCvCRaqh1DJg3H-8GN3RaxKkdZB9XOpsbi6EDU7FkbbIvSYimoiUoapAzkjZKsuIhV4Oo_wM4u4WHKUcg71pew90i5mxBiFoWfSyEl3pQabcWBEbP9pwKdm9LwY6kREPC-lO9q/s1600-h/106+-+2+-+Dave+Canyon+Dust.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207047519139260178" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdVf8BDNCvCRaqh1DJg3H-8GN3RaxKkdZB9XOpsbi6EDU7FkbbIvSYimoiUoapAzkjZKsuIhV4Oo_wM4u4WHKUcg71pew90i5mxBiFoWfSyEl3pQabcWBEbP9pwKdm9LwY6kREPC-lO9q/s400/106+-+2+-+Dave+Canyon+Dust.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Dave, Mountains, Dust<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvXfEixEyfTG0mK_xnvnJIJHsmpkZHB3021d-IjbaCv_loZAkWkNFh-WSM5SkhP3h4-aAQLUx47IZSO1qRgH82_hXmbsrVTmt9Ghg0NEP7AsNSGJlFpntkV30dCLRfHYlkMoqCNeg-zgj/s1600-h/106+-+3+-+Train+Line+-+Horse+Trail.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207047519139260194" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvXfEixEyfTG0mK_xnvnJIJHsmpkZHB3021d-IjbaCv_loZAkWkNFh-WSM5SkhP3h4-aAQLUx47IZSO1qRgH82_hXmbsrVTmt9Ghg0NEP7AsNSGJlFpntkV30dCLRfHYlkMoqCNeg-zgj/s400/106+-+3+-+Train+Line+-+Horse+Trail.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>Horse trail or rail line - 106<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEily60TbV9P1JxvGg9RPIVOlt33OiIq5A3HeBI_kl_BUEIYMc9w6ZKF1T7daJLsnI374pwGwYcIvnQNYwZYGjCPv7zJnCXDc91DNEsJEjExDvAnO3_oMOtaEaYlNJIMpheK-1YhjGQv5mVB/s1600-h/106+-+4+-+Hi+from+the+Bridge.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207047038102922930" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEily60TbV9P1JxvGg9RPIVOlt33OiIq5A3HeBI_kl_BUEIYMc9w6ZKF1T7daJLsnI374pwGwYcIvnQNYwZYGjCPv7zJnCXDc91DNEsJEjExDvAnO3_oMOtaEaYlNJIMpheK-1YhjGQv5mVB/s400/106+-+4+-+Hi+from+the+Bridge.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Hi from the bridge - day 106<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNgzlkEM8S9BZPlyyZ4P8hb1Gyb9AH_Yyqot0soQ4Xeh34KWiphStVKfgGAe6JJr_Q5IbXKcHWBIxBEe61TCwUm0oWZtgXLIgFCpFZYXTxMvRvg7MjarkmOqLLAQKqccTx192Q5EXbCL1z/s1600-h/106+-+5+-+Dave+on+the+Bridge.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207047042397890242" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNgzlkEM8S9BZPlyyZ4P8hb1Gyb9AH_Yyqot0soQ4Xeh34KWiphStVKfgGAe6JJr_Q5IbXKcHWBIxBEe61TCwUm0oWZtgXLIgFCpFZYXTxMvRvg7MjarkmOqLLAQKqccTx192Q5EXbCL1z/s400/106+-+5+-+Dave+on+the+Bridge.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Dave on the bridge - 106<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIJxAKjWdcDRErAZTdQI7wHT2UPH_hA2uNX9N8cZzusYpM3cjialoM70XdsquoVCJe-mLxVKQTsEM4uhpzACpd4eESW3itj9vskFiEo_RR3rIsx95TjEGj92IYdb3T08kGldrhh6A6VNRz/s1600-h/106+-+6+-+Odd+place+for+a+cemetary.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207047046692857554" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIJxAKjWdcDRErAZTdQI7wHT2UPH_hA2uNX9N8cZzusYpM3cjialoM70XdsquoVCJe-mLxVKQTsEM4uhpzACpd4eESW3itj9vskFiEo_RR3rIsx95TjEGj92IYdb3T08kGldrhh6A6VNRz/s400/106+-+6+-+Odd+place+for+a+cemetary.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Odd place for a cemetary - middle of nowhere under a train bridge - day 1<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuNY5crnq87X4bZSY1cfuK8lUDTQ_CVj6oMJuWgqG-iu5JkNLyTCAUJR0tPeNAEHCNWC0qe7j1IcUTUyAkHbOXPsGRPmd5xQii-HddyuC1Q1CAqBP_dhSeAlJ_P-Q4VWjGU5d5vpexOxAA/s1600-h/107+-+1+-+The+Road.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207047046692857570" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuNY5crnq87X4bZSY1cfuK8lUDTQ_CVj6oMJuWgqG-iu5JkNLyTCAUJR0tPeNAEHCNWC0qe7j1IcUTUyAkHbOXPsGRPmd5xQii-HddyuC1Q1CAqBP_dhSeAlJ_P-Q4VWjGU5d5vpexOxAA/s400/107+-+1+-+The+Road.jpg" border="0" /></a>06<br />The road - day 107<br /><br /><br /><div>Colonial style church on the ascent - 107<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYN7FKJoRfy4t6rH2zOeZbwCVbdiJz6XXUxB2lquLsPdlINR_TKCtYb7hGbyBxdO1L_0UzVAUsFMoi1s1ejncetJXV-KBhHfWJ4IF7xl9052LwX0aXPVNYq8bq0k-LCHamEdEeNnN640Ng/s1600-h/107+-+3+-+Just+Keepin+the+Roof+On.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207046441102468706" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYN7FKJoRfy4t6rH2zOeZbwCVbdiJz6XXUxB2lquLsPdlINR_TKCtYb7hGbyBxdO1L_0UzVAUsFMoi1s1ejncetJXV-KBhHfWJ4IF7xl9052LwX0aXPVNYq8bq0k-LCHamEdEeNnN640Ng/s400/107+-+3+-+Just+Keepin+the+Roof+On.jpg" border="0" /></a> ok, it was here, got deleted by blogger gods.<br />Just Keepin the roof on - 107<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Q-JWlFFsJcgZ72kqSjX_ai38AsUE2tseA6ugkJfWxisxL03XzEfejRhBfQkVeEuUXjBhsEQ8G0ICefjEwe0omKjnlTLQmFi7hN4TX8pNFUXxv172WvP14dKuPzENWfPNtpve27ac1hXQ/s1600-h/107+-+4+-+Another+Beautiful+Desert+Moonrise.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207046441102468722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Q-JWlFFsJcgZ72kqSjX_ai38AsUE2tseA6ugkJfWxisxL03XzEfejRhBfQkVeEuUXjBhsEQ8G0ICefjEwe0omKjnlTLQmFi7hN4TX8pNFUXxv172WvP14dKuPzENWfPNtpve27ac1hXQ/s400/107+-+4+-+Another+Beautiful+Desert+Moonrise.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Amazing desert moonrise - 107<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO1yqRVWCqqt_Q_Cd_JQRaYjlh2LFTfz4XWvjBcakX_x7HA7xE9gcP8lEqfXC7shKG3VQCqP2kiS7x9VdsZBfAZjCTrYRu8_j6vCfs9MD12WuIhLlKK8OIuEgzmrvq6CekJGYuicu3S0hO/s1600-h/107+-+5+-+Lotsa+Cactii.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207046445397436034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO1yqRVWCqqt_Q_Cd_JQRaYjlh2LFTfz4XWvjBcakX_x7HA7xE9gcP8lEqfXC7shKG3VQCqP2kiS7x9VdsZBfAZjCTrYRu8_j6vCfs9MD12WuIhLlKK8OIuEgzmrvq6CekJGYuicu3S0hO/s400/107+-+5+-+Lotsa+Cactii.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Lotsa cactii - 107<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDfdBpL2LTMJAkbuj1HK7L5LMJSOq1yJ-_zBt0KPZcuvd1RWtnB5XHeKx4fcGIFXGeIgap8X7VQ6nq9nFr1WvSCnoCrHbV-EvyLksjaccDKOVpsfcaPCH6CIoNqKA1smcajDQRFBnl_0SO/s1600-h/107+-+6+-+Dave+and+the+Road.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207046445397436050" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDfdBpL2LTMJAkbuj1HK7L5LMJSOq1yJ-_zBt0KPZcuvd1RWtnB5XHeKx4fcGIFXGeIgap8X7VQ6nq9nFr1WvSCnoCrHbV-EvyLksjaccDKOVpsfcaPCH6CIoNqKA1smcajDQRFBnl_0SO/s400/107+-+6+-+Dave+and+the+Road.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Dave on a desert road - 107<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYi7T1KYJjZkdnDFaqk66Qg3zlqaJmMwLytwcqa_oDF7ud_2uJrkbiwvQ8AkEfizQtw_ujVkfbVsjIUgeWWwnlZY6LIdOI1ptmzMbByOJ20kCEEEoA35svxA8mMptLZ4ML3DPWT892ETuz/s1600-h/108+-+1+-+Headwinds+nearing+the+Pass.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207046445397436066" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYi7T1KYJjZkdnDFaqk66Qg3zlqaJmMwLytwcqa_oDF7ud_2uJrkbiwvQ8AkEfizQtw_ujVkfbVsjIUgeWWwnlZY6LIdOI1ptmzMbByOJ20kCEEEoA35svxA8mMptLZ4ML3DPWT892ETuz/s400/108+-+1+-+Headwinds+nearing+the+Pass.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Headwinds and still climbing - day 108<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQHZolZ818JrIySJh-dX69D0iLgtdNGGJW6FNBBUUlfFEnzQWT-RCcrROXreDYEKDOU1tU80BxfKlsttL424DW4C28bhKFMK4d1dWKXAjSxk4m5v_LlkFilM25_YxoO-yLNW2foSgOxFvu/s1600-h/108+-+2+-+The+Road+Up.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207045577814042130" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQHZolZ818JrIySJh-dX69D0iLgtdNGGJW6FNBBUUlfFEnzQWT-RCcrROXreDYEKDOU1tU80BxfKlsttL424DW4C28bhKFMK4d1dWKXAjSxk4m5v_LlkFilM25_YxoO-yLNW2foSgOxFvu/s400/108+-+2+-+The+Road+Up.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The road to the pass - day 108<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY3qe6jFF0ig-pm5qRJmdB5AQyBYyTDzHFIRgT544lHW7H9gudnH3ewxs8vzZoU3VMwsQk1dNYo6wSjQUm_pd44Wex1sNlQ7RR-ONQnja1TsaGy1NN8mJ2kZK_L3MT3yMU-F7CuS7w_SIA/s1600-h/108+-+3+-+Needs+No+Explanation.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207045582109009442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY3qe6jFF0ig-pm5qRJmdB5AQyBYyTDzHFIRgT544lHW7H9gudnH3ewxs8vzZoU3VMwsQk1dNYo6wSjQUm_pd44Wex1sNlQ7RR-ONQnja1TsaGy1NN8mJ2kZK_L3MT3yMU-F7CuS7w_SIA/s400/108+-+3+-+Needs+No+Explanation.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Needs no explanation<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZrFl7Bjfaftpk0wePL0OJC4LHjELsiKvJEJ4slEUjdF70tXVALrGCbHnI65Rg4RrHSVBfJcSSG2jarMQnqkZ7_59le7nMY2l06VSUontLB8eLwtfaiQO9GpJTLneQPbU6sfLDiawWkWUK/s1600-h/108+-+4+-+We+Made+It.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207045582109009458" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZrFl7Bjfaftpk0wePL0OJC4LHjELsiKvJEJ4slEUjdF70tXVALrGCbHnI65Rg4RrHSVBfJcSSG2jarMQnqkZ7_59le7nMY2l06VSUontLB8eLwtfaiQO9GpJTLneQPbU6sfLDiawWkWUK/s400/108+-+4+-+We+Made+It.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The pass itself - I´m a bit tired<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Wx00Wkp3x9-p8N3_3dJPGufzknhD-WI8KJgMqFqntO4o-ZqN-mP92U6jY6yGseyfqmR1A2AjfiB0tNS4ivRNf7JWmVa6iw4HGrKDN9adFTPQAfC5FssfNSoB5N1xKjommA00stfNpuO4/s1600-h/108+-+5+-+Exact+Location.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207045586403976770" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Wx00Wkp3x9-p8N3_3dJPGufzknhD-WI8KJgMqFqntO4o-ZqN-mP92U6jY6yGseyfqmR1A2AjfiB0tNS4ivRNf7JWmVa6iw4HGrKDN9adFTPQAfC5FssfNSoB5N1xKjommA00stfNpuO4/s400/108+-+5+-+Exact+Location.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Exact location - 4125m (about 13,600ft) on my GPS +-13m<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwS1JLitE41nKlWRZ25Ke86MrywBCMKEnGdvTlz_EyGo2QPXEbWhbJ9rKoWfCOlxbBzgyafcz261tRlLddliEf3-pt36S4aJhN7jSwzhdI_ZHrehZSAo8PMIV5BG_LxWDiqEqLLb_JAE-Q/s1600-h/108+-+6+-+Descent+-+Check+Brakes.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207045586403976786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwS1JLitE41nKlWRZ25Ke86MrywBCMKEnGdvTlz_EyGo2QPXEbWhbJ9rKoWfCOlxbBzgyafcz261tRlLddliEf3-pt36S4aJhN7jSwzhdI_ZHrehZSAo8PMIV5BG_LxWDiqEqLLb_JAE-Q/s400/108+-+6+-+Descent+-+Check+Brakes.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Check brakes before descent<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpFkq54IgzPJ4Wdi6MLv4CedtmtpD5UkGX_yKT3ZndXNrkdEBqusMNUfitriiOKJuklv8JvDRn6L4_Tfcjk55TJEuoJbX6crD4LJUaP6usOzUIKEfL3GHHwUUQYfLjQGjZ3UEfqlF4pVzU/s1600-h/108+-+7+-+First+shot+of+Cerro+Nevado+-+premonition.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207044937863914946" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpFkq54IgzPJ4Wdi6MLv4CedtmtpD5UkGX_yKT3ZndXNrkdEBqusMNUfitriiOKJuklv8JvDRn6L4_Tfcjk55TJEuoJbX6crD4LJUaP6usOzUIKEfL3GHHwUUQYfLjQGjZ3UEfqlF4pVzU/s400/108+-+7+-+First+shot+of+Cerro+Nevado+-+premonition.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />First shot of Cerro Nevado - premonition? Day 108<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQZx4MzkBFFf991nokZFG_-rpnijSBEuCl3woTS7miuRjHpBR_7kM8Pec1VWK1z8Pnqg07vLNebGuDYmNCHe5q8NZitv8U3HebGCWSKOquwElCSzlZzj4l6B4RxUQTfrdM-8OyS7NPT3Zj/s1600-h/108+-+8+-+Evening+Sky+towards+SADLC.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207044937863914962" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQZx4MzkBFFf991nokZFG_-rpnijSBEuCl3woTS7miuRjHpBR_7kM8Pec1VWK1z8Pnqg07vLNebGuDYmNCHe5q8NZitv8U3HebGCWSKOquwElCSzlZzj4l6B4RxUQTfrdM-8OyS7NPT3Zj/s400/108+-+8+-+Evening+Sky+towards+SADLC.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Evening sky towards San Pedro - 108<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIy1Ir52eimTglReqLzfaULk3F3se6LF13SRK23mPJcB8VfKArFvLhukwvJS9uX1kNTKfHqYAyhmN12EpJRRTFdKR-v5mnvG1CUfBbNMlv2VvpoMav4VXcRPT1AIKjrkcS68Q7sxh4tGQc/s1600-h/108+-+9+-+Camp+with+Nevado+in+backgroun.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207044942158882274" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIy1Ir52eimTglReqLzfaULk3F3se6LF13SRK23mPJcB8VfKArFvLhukwvJS9uX1kNTKfHqYAyhmN12EpJRRTFdKR-v5mnvG1CUfBbNMlv2VvpoMav4VXcRPT1AIKjrkcS68Q7sxh4tGQc/s400/108+-+9+-+Camp+with+Nevado+in+backgroun.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Camp w Cerro Nevado in background - 108<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ__yZhoBbindsPbC9IquPQM9TIC_7IWl1TUxlXE-DXLrwdr2W0FPiGcPMrgb7shs-KOp4LIakiquT4EB53GoUZt_hm_6vlP73g8PG3TKoWgZQW03BXW6BjuREzgm6WI4YA7MRhUL7VolU/s1600-h/109+-+1+-+Which+one+was+ours+again.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207044942158882290" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ__yZhoBbindsPbC9IquPQM9TIC_7IWl1TUxlXE-DXLrwdr2W0FPiGcPMrgb7shs-KOp4LIakiquT4EB53GoUZt_hm_6vlP73g8PG3TKoWgZQW03BXW6BjuREzgm6WI4YA7MRhUL7VolU/s400/109+-+1+-+Which+one+was+ours+again.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Which one was our cabin again (we did actually stay in one of these Gov´t built houses) - day 109<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_oPLNI4eu-qmcQK725OzZL81RW_kDa9o2dQpYa1SkFyAZ9iVZt5CORHLxuErtYtQkuOxLkt8XCEsbT_fksF2H8rcAwfwhjj4DEiYhio8lGnL91OISNNq13uNvqigYffhzisRZAra5tJSX/s1600-h/109+-+2+-+Enjoy+Coke.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207044946453849602" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_oPLNI4eu-qmcQK725OzZL81RW_kDa9o2dQpYa1SkFyAZ9iVZt5CORHLxuErtYtQkuOxLkt8XCEsbT_fksF2H8rcAwfwhjj4DEiYhio8lGnL91OISNNq13uNvqigYffhzisRZAra5tJSX/s400/109+-+2+-+Enjoy+Coke.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Enjoy Coke while in San Pedro de Atacama - saw this billboard on other blogs and thought I need a pic of it, too.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqwalVm5uc1Kf9OpJtUh-_8gSlq3x3OM46lxJJe0eENDIlQVCMBqSei4C3nienTBAjcUy7tuvxzbJgxQCw0PzoRpAk77_Uu_27wo36tDKH1VssWvKo3dn1xhD04yV4PsfzH78-jxnQY_M8/s1600-h/110+-+1+-+Parrots+Everywhere.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207041428875634034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqwalVm5uc1Kf9OpJtUh-_8gSlq3x3OM46lxJJe0eENDIlQVCMBqSei4C3nienTBAjcUy7tuvxzbJgxQCw0PzoRpAk77_Uu_27wo36tDKH1VssWvKo3dn1xhD04yV4PsfzH78-jxnQY_M8/s400/110+-+1+-+Parrots+Everywhere.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Lots Parrots everywhere - day<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfN_exFXUy6DiiS3pNnUwMinfxSF7BrnwgxZf7OcoROS72VwS-2RNS3zHEE1rLsK4v05ZuLc7EiM9ECGsJtP4_INRcUCR6DdI2IWei1zZqItEzOYFKvbZKNmzKltCHgyiN648IgdUVB2S9/s1600-h/110+-+2+-+The+Bike+Trail.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207041433170601346" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfN_exFXUy6DiiS3pNnUwMinfxSF7BrnwgxZf7OcoROS72VwS-2RNS3zHEE1rLsK4v05ZuLc7EiM9ECGsJtP4_INRcUCR6DdI2IWei1zZqItEzOYFKvbZKNmzKltCHgyiN648IgdUVB2S9/s400/110+-+2+-+The+Bike+Trail.jpg" border="0" /></a> 110<br />This would be a bike trail - heading to the bridge along the rail line - 110<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQqd0erkRboMi9eKtpfv2_LJVxc4NCIESsHXiG9TKTm67oPqDmT3sxdGzNGOI_B4h59l8FpojqDM6H6LNBm4JyzMzAc1C59ZjJ19WJOpxQ0qPFRM0tqSZaRixU8xVmW0oo4xjoFgAfUCWU/s1600-h/110+-+3+-+Mind+the+Edge.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207041433170601362" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQqd0erkRboMi9eKtpfv2_LJVxc4NCIESsHXiG9TKTm67oPqDmT3sxdGzNGOI_B4h59l8FpojqDM6H6LNBm4JyzMzAc1C59ZjJ19WJOpxQ0qPFRM0tqSZaRixU8xVmW0oo4xjoFgAfUCWU/s400/110+-+3+-+Mind+the+Edge.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Mind the ed<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqdIpsPiRD-5w4v1yjYpZTDk3ixuJGv_NmJjyNGX3GX6o7V1qlRfA62ocQl2oflANpuJZfYDpI7HxORPvvAPTUiuA-f-xV8XEnB9tdE1EyXU9iM3R8anSDq_zNefpNL59NViLj0k6IqNeR/s1600-h/110+-+4+-+More+Trail.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207041437465568674" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqdIpsPiRD-5w4v1yjYpZTDk3ixuJGv_NmJjyNGX3GX6o7V1qlRfA62ocQl2oflANpuJZfYDpI7HxORPvvAPTUiuA-f-xV8XEnB9tdE1EyXU9iM3R8anSDq_zNefpNL59NViLj0k6IqNeR/s400/110+-+4+-+More+Trail.jpg" border="0" /></a>ge - day 110<br />Nice rail line cut<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyXnlAFYcTorv00afLs-MXiMDQDAFfKI8VYE13QCXa9u9fjW1SEVzg2F-uwrQp5u5M2WjUFMH-S9fUu4iUFDsZ09ULj6zDoXc4cUllaepBHn3lH9wwk30RdvYm8ZH8sl6viB8TNH2GJusK/s1600-h/110+-+5+-+Concordia+Minas.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207041437465568690" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyXnlAFYcTorv00afLs-MXiMDQDAFfKI8VYE13QCXa9u9fjW1SEVzg2F-uwrQp5u5M2WjUFMH-S9fUu4iUFDsZ09ULj6zDoXc4cUllaepBHn3lH9wwk30RdvYm8ZH8sl6viB8TNH2GJusK/s400/110+-+5+-+Concordia+Minas.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Minas Concordia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtCYRkng2djtyFIt9kAKVxohXYcu77x-liDMwK0ugFt1OB2EAdvdQ5MGep-wz4ZdCqOO6WAP9DbBnlkg7DJXItP2pdtKV4Qx-NsgKKJQEJQPDDFClS2Ie6yD6xwt7lGOpYWoLBoDAweQv3/s1600-h/110+-+6+-+No+Wait+Stop.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207040668666422562" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtCYRkng2djtyFIt9kAKVxohXYcu77x-liDMwK0ugFt1OB2EAdvdQ5MGep-wz4ZdCqOO6WAP9DbBnlkg7DJXItP2pdtKV4Qx-NsgKKJQEJQPDDFClS2Ie6yD6xwt7lGOpYWoLBoDAweQv3/s400/110+-+6+-+No+Wait+Stop.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Wait - stop (at least that what this signal says) - Dave cycling near Minas Concordia - and me on the bridge - Day 110<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6RnYgarsP6Ete1FAZRMWC2APy-uqn5BvBf6DJu5MeEp9wJ2aShp99kHnaLJE2qadvdX6xwtV05GuxHnpkO8fYrmmUiYKJUbBBWnlmdDvx6dCrwYtLCA4VQBC0Rulz-vgr2hjGYkmxaeDi/s1600-h/110+-+8+-+Me+On+Bridge.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207040681551324482" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6RnYgarsP6Ete1FAZRMWC2APy-uqn5BvBf6DJu5MeEp9wJ2aShp99kHnaLJE2qadvdX6xwtV05GuxHnpkO8fYrmmUiYKJUbBBWnlmdDvx6dCrwYtLCA4VQBC0Rulz-vgr2hjGYkmxaeDi/s400/110+-+8+-+Me+On+Bridge.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsMV2vqUP7hUTsQh4zniCpetdI7C9cBv2xBvhfuF8yOnGpxx5B0pt1y92DgO-cz8HpZgoYlzxlQeFFBChR8sj_frMIWRtt5X5xqrFXUGZLwblX1H059sNzoZHbPE1xSReatvJfZ6646yY/s1600-h/110+-+9+-+The+Whole+Bridge.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207040681551324498" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsMV2vqUP7hUTsQh4zniCpetdI7C9cBv2xBvhfuF8yOnGpxx5B0pt1y92DgO-cz8HpZgoYlzxlQeFFBChR8sj_frMIWRtt5X5xqrFXUGZLwblX1H059sNzoZHbPE1xSReatvJfZ6646yY/s400/110+-+9+-+The+Whole+Bridge.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The bridge itself in all its glory<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWlmK3AmUBEvu3Fu4M-bhUAyY7gy9-DBnl4HykxiMwGdQNTH_dHO0bHkQ_Hu3_6wyoZrtuvl2-HQT4fNWG-oeME_EAvDjZnHc5GBRIq6dfsPtLQ2sO813vP9qLQ_XS4eiCgnwCi1_95gy/s1600-h/110+-+10+-+Long+Way+Down.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207040681551324514" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWlmK3AmUBEvu3Fu4M-bhUAyY7gy9-DBnl4HykxiMwGdQNTH_dHO0bHkQ_Hu3_6wyoZrtuvl2-HQT4fNWG-oeME_EAvDjZnHc5GBRIq6dfsPtLQ2sO813vP9qLQ_XS4eiCgnwCi1_95gy/s400/110+-+10+-+Long+Way+Down.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Long Way Down<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRng3CrGkotpJNOMFaP7E5fQTN5qncXmOF-iKZQeQ_NmQempOVl_CNfJl0PrEnrXFKzpeAT9z0gU4X4vDWKSlRyX5eIAoXqTNz3joGjLZCUH_WRp64AMgKQNdzLR0tdUQWO5TuuHjEwt0d/s1600-h/110+-+11+-+Back+in+SAdlC.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207039861212570834" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRng3CrGkotpJNOMFaP7E5fQTN5qncXmOF-iKZQeQ_NmQempOVl_CNfJl0PrEnrXFKzpeAT9z0gU4X4vDWKSlRyX5eIAoXqTNz3joGjLZCUH_WRp64AMgKQNdzLR0tdUQWO5TuuHjEwt0d/s400/110+-+11+-+Back+in+SAdlC.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Dave glad we made it back to town<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga5krASLArbi6YYBWY0mcComk_XXUcOfuok59Vtf5gshmcIvm-mHbNhKt9u81KVHBCXaKwOPgaH-7pEm39Cm2dJYdqoFPexwBZ8QGkHh2veLuoJvoRInFym0CzBQaqWfmFUdRcQgLzJkVL/s1600-h/111+-+1+-+Ignacio+the+Guide.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207039869802505442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga5krASLArbi6YYBWY0mcComk_XXUcOfuok59Vtf5gshmcIvm-mHbNhKt9u81KVHBCXaKwOPgaH-7pEm39Cm2dJYdqoFPexwBZ8QGkHh2veLuoJvoRInFym0CzBQaqWfmFUdRcQgLzJkVL/s400/111+-+1+-+Ignacio+the+Guide.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Ignacio leading a tour group to the oldest building in San Antonio - originally regional goverment seat, now police station. Day 111<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-eZYeujVzEjqFin6VkRpap7gVzF1uM1_cxu0FkEZipQW0bwdZ0sAYaqH-hSnRx3EcqVr5GKyMGsLSHaM8GYNw_iFE_RjXwI-XjfpVQzNDlkJDtqUcPGzf9jAuK0IoIvfYB9Cw4lRJo-Rl/s1600-h/111+-+2+-+Labor+Day+Run+-+Future+Olympians.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207039874097472754" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-eZYeujVzEjqFin6VkRpap7gVzF1uM1_cxu0FkEZipQW0bwdZ0sAYaqH-hSnRx3EcqVr5GKyMGsLSHaM8GYNw_iFE_RjXwI-XjfpVQzNDlkJDtqUcPGzf9jAuK0IoIvfYB9Cw4lRJo-Rl/s400/111+-+2+-+Labor+Day+Run+-+Future+Olympians.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Labor day (May 1st) race, day 111, good place to train at near 4000m<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsYwiyc9kSVFugaXUky0dMvIvCfDQpg4VhubGpPk6bACtUdYOaCPzICMwgBN4O5pfug0mWjP3OYGzhNvGG0OxdoRPsNZfL8axAzamFY_3FcdeN2jQFsY1Z3ltC9qxsMP4g4JS55mdJ4P8/s1600-h/111+-+3+-+San+Antonio+Sidewalk.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207039878392440066" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsYwiyc9kSVFugaXUky0dMvIvCfDQpg4VhubGpPk6bACtUdYOaCPzICMwgBN4O5pfug0mWjP3OYGzhNvGG0OxdoRPsNZfL8axAzamFY_3FcdeN2jQFsY1Z3ltC9qxsMP4g4JS55mdJ4P8/s400/111+-+3+-+San+Antonio+Sidewalk.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Some tight sidewalks in S.A. dl C.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTp3vbn6RLilynj1V2axbhfQG-XjIjXT7Ao5r6FpTFgjVmNf36yriT6vW1bPx4ME9L6ClbUh7S-XrCOnCT7HUeNz8ZJjAN2lYWvrdDq-XEW5kgMsjJR-mP6Z_sAAg4AcTYycNb351VXRed/s1600-h/111+-+4+-+Cemetary+on+Ruta+40.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207039878392440082" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTp3vbn6RLilynj1V2axbhfQG-XjIjXT7Ao5r6FpTFgjVmNf36yriT6vW1bPx4ME9L6ClbUh7S-XrCOnCT7HUeNz8ZJjAN2lYWvrdDq-XEW5kgMsjJR-mP6Z_sAAg4AcTYycNb351VXRed/s400/111+-+4+-+Cemetary+on+Ruta+40.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Ruta 40 cemetary 15km out of town - 111<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrcjNyVzaLlqnKK-xSAP3QT5TzwihwBoWlSvqhhsbwafGt48x0YLM009-aSzxckkNIpAAbAg6Bz-LZv58q2qUCDO4uSu6MJWY49z6qwtEY7tc2R3OSnGomQKL26Vkf3QPPczk3qJ7tRlJf/s1600-h/111+-+5+-+Bird+on+a+Cemetary+Wall.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207038997924144258" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrcjNyVzaLlqnKK-xSAP3QT5TzwihwBoWlSvqhhsbwafGt48x0YLM009-aSzxckkNIpAAbAg6Bz-LZv58q2qUCDO4uSu6MJWY49z6qwtEY7tc2R3OSnGomQKL26Vkf3QPPczk3qJ7tRlJf/s400/111+-+5+-+Bird+on+a+Cemetary+Wall.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Bird on cemetary wall - 111<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivDScJy-SEWSdnOf8l00MSeVwMrx1py26WiEnc2kPo6X5FhiK1RQ8qW2OdjvFPwDvaoL-t0H3wjDSw5-SLL7glVLIPLrSfXy21hsJCf46aOupJPpWzfHle7QKhzgq_jgN2sx_nwsSlAm5n/s1600-h/111+-+6+-+Another+Cemetary+Shot.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207039002219111570" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivDScJy-SEWSdnOf8l00MSeVwMrx1py26WiEnc2kPo6X5FhiK1RQ8qW2OdjvFPwDvaoL-t0H3wjDSw5-SLL7glVLIPLrSfXy21hsJCf46aOupJPpWzfHle7QKhzgq_jgN2sx_nwsSlAm5n/s400/111+-+6+-+Another+Cemetary+Shot.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Don´t know why I have so many pictures of this place<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9H8vNkhLqW4BYsD3RchAUTGgoi-BonbIl8IgKTSPo95M1jYRfFLhgueTp-lVn-lv70fUQlkvp9-GFgykF8sbLpWwbed9dHv5OlugRB3tktCs81wJJNlnaz7432bQveaUa1Dvus-Pwjw_-/s1600-h/111+-+7+-+Road+to+Abra+del+Acay.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207039006514078882" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9H8vNkhLqW4BYsD3RchAUTGgoi-BonbIl8IgKTSPo95M1jYRfFLhgueTp-lVn-lv70fUQlkvp9-GFgykF8sbLpWwbed9dHv5OlugRB3tktCs81wJJNlnaz7432bQveaUa1Dvus-Pwjw_-/s400/111+-+7+-+Road+to+Abra+del+Acay.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Ruta 40 heading towards Abra del Acay pass - I´m around 4050, pass is around 4900<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgke5aYpqyrVK1o6_hj8RUeAh0FRCVZyRP7vWQUVnzc8lUPPIWDT1lpRhFlUrp_1JFx5q65T6XuaiP3eohCLyy4zCcBprCBYH__9lVBXVU4ZCKpUxlzrW8ePQda2PX34Cbn4aCM3iliY12h/s1600-h/111+-+8+-+Riding+the+Rail+Back.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207039006514078898" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgke5aYpqyrVK1o6_hj8RUeAh0FRCVZyRP7vWQUVnzc8lUPPIWDT1lpRhFlUrp_1JFx5q65T6XuaiP3eohCLyy4zCcBprCBYH__9lVBXVU4ZCKpUxlzrW8ePQda2PX34Cbn4aCM3iliY12h/s400/111+-+8+-+Riding+the+Rail+Back.jpg" border="0" /></a>m (over 16000ft)<br />Rail line heading back to town<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOvfGj88Zu7bhgsknwg2V8Gn9a1pYRNdbG7TqSm1CBF1xWtKc8mryv1nnkO0DCZ3lFlIYXXhV16pJdSxTSZ8tlj7SqrGZLr6px27dFdjXElESVDzasPYKPAjmVSsSwOJG_oZqXEmfSHL3n/s1600-h/111+-+9+-+Ignacio+and+Abel+for+Dinner.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207039010809046210" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOvfGj88Zu7bhgsknwg2V8Gn9a1pYRNdbG7TqSm1CBF1xWtKc8mryv1nnkO0DCZ3lFlIYXXhV16pJdSxTSZ8tlj7SqrGZLr6px27dFdjXElESVDzasPYKPAjmVSsSwOJG_oZqXEmfSHL3n/s400/111+-+9+-+Ignacio+and+Abel+for+Dinner.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Dinner with Ignacio and Abel - great tourist info center workers - 111<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVulg9MmEF8M67dr8-F4HNiw_xKmx-V10ighkiEGcYBCwKGRntkxf8Ovsto42IJUQB4GjfqsQNKwvG4REWdnvXhwlBkvLyLV_61m39SOlivH6oo3R3PhMHvqHqQNQOwQJUGxneHcSKniNW/s1600-h/112+-+1+-+Sunrise+on+the+Tracks.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207037340066767922" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVulg9MmEF8M67dr8-F4HNiw_xKmx-V10ighkiEGcYBCwKGRntkxf8Ovsto42IJUQB4GjfqsQNKwvG4REWdnvXhwlBkvLyLV_61m39SOlivH6oo3R3PhMHvqHqQNQOwQJUGxneHcSKniNW/s400/112+-+1+-+Sunrise+on+the+Tracks.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Early Start - day 112<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAswMTOtCFWfkwG1OZfkE7RcfvBJQ8j8VcAUuUbBGNjnOIioUtl3KcujQ2qI5TjKIDIHQKq_w8g7vH_DRYjq14bVldIQb03LTFvB9koPa6zbPKhm9XIvwjoR3EytzOmxQkeu7MoogBcrBQ/s1600-h/112+-+2+-+My+Nemisis.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207037344361735234" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAswMTOtCFWfkwG1OZfkE7RcfvBJQ8j8VcAUuUbBGNjnOIioUtl3KcujQ2qI5TjKIDIHQKq_w8g7vH_DRYjq14bVldIQb03LTFvB9koPa6zbPKhm9XIvwjoR3EytzOmxQkeu7MoogBcrBQ/s400/112+-+2+-+My+Nemisis.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Cerro Nevado - day 112<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPbdTbSkLB14wkdAnAPVGOoAWbAg8fdtN4N4WtfmD5N6O84LPJR8o6mLeBa7AM32NZQ8mVBZsgd1wCaZ-9a9xFmzFBxdBtQvQsSM0H2r5mS3JmLNUN1EAM-lLaTZ0ef-N_rC9zlDC4-Qab/s1600-h/112+-+3+-+Yes+-+this+is+the+road+to+the+mine.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207037348656702546" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPbdTbSkLB14wkdAnAPVGOoAWbAg8fdtN4N4WtfmD5N6O84LPJR8o6mLeBa7AM32NZQ8mVBZsgd1wCaZ-9a9xFmzFBxdBtQvQsSM0H2r5mS3JmLNUN1EAM-lLaTZ0ef-N_rC9zlDC4-Qab/s400/112+-+3+-+Yes+-+this+is+the+road+to+the+mine.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />This is actually the road to the mine - stream crossing - ice - day 112<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW6ltFXEv0Sl0SP6u6somEVKkdnvkT1uRyBhopF3TUvW3D5dDI_Sm_HMKJvkcWLmJl8PKPRlXM-IpgH6QrI3K8Y1S_8GaUJAUEI8SSEolQyhavdf95gTwSnHFMiG-HBC4aVuvvnkFtKeSA/s1600-h/112+-+4+-+Stage+One.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207037352951669858" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW6ltFXEv0Sl0SP6u6somEVKkdnvkT1uRyBhopF3TUvW3D5dDI_Sm_HMKJvkcWLmJl8PKPRlXM-IpgH6QrI3K8Y1S_8GaUJAUEI8SSEolQyhavdf95gTwSnHFMiG-HBC4aVuvvnkFtKeSA/s400/112+-+4+-+Stage+One.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Start of my hike - going up this hillside between 4800 and 5000m<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitu1BzSz5J3wiz368aGvMQir1dX4EJaBWP2mtiXw3IkDu5Fyfu0dXDLrJ-8bHTTjB7vrE5Qy1lygFqE_jL8N4ZQC9cxjl2sFZLtN_IBJvs8hBrdE4FTPhLWJJxdAP9xvaQtQgeaxH_OYEk/s1600-h/112+-+5+-+The+Bike+at+4800m.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207037352951669874" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitu1BzSz5J3wiz368aGvMQir1dX4EJaBWP2mtiXw3IkDu5Fyfu0dXDLrJ-8bHTTjB7vrE5Qy1lygFqE_jL8N4ZQC9cxjl2sFZLtN_IBJvs8hBrdE4FTPhLWJJxdAP9xvaQtQgeaxH_OYEk/s400/112+-+5+-+The+Bike+at+4800m.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Where the bike rested at 4800m<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2dYft_XYdj23vhXOTyRU9N-Ckj0sLAyIAX1Oh7ANl_KL05KEh8fitIL_HBjpOWva5EZcpcgH780PX-SHzZmajrvmOl0SQYNrt0iUtW1xYVZv3Gg_bunyEx8ssyQyKMvLmdJrhnUzgohW0/s1600-h/112+-+6+-+That+Damn+Scree.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207036446713570274" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2dYft_XYdj23vhXOTyRU9N-Ckj0sLAyIAX1Oh7ANl_KL05KEh8fitIL_HBjpOWva5EZcpcgH780PX-SHzZmajrvmOl0SQYNrt0iUtW1xYVZv3Gg_bunyEx8ssyQyKMvLmdJrhnUzgohW0/s400/112+-+6+-+That+Damn+Scree.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />This is pretty much the rest of the climb, scree and more scree and sky<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMYq-SSfOt0lZ16woBzO3gsJVjVkIzg6mOo7Oc9pUvQlC54xKBHMx6HBBeLbBiuPdeFqtUiJj2qCUJO1LkbTg9UKvyVHJQERqts14Fbc19qxhyD7DQY9WbBBxthKGbXX1U_dYZ8b4Na2dH/s1600-h/112+-+7+-+Another+Scree+Shot.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207036451008537586" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMYq-SSfOt0lZ16woBzO3gsJVjVkIzg6mOo7Oc9pUvQlC54xKBHMx6HBBeLbBiuPdeFqtUiJj2qCUJO1LkbTg9UKvyVHJQERqts14Fbc19qxhyD7DQY9WbBBxthKGbXX1U_dYZ8b4Na2dH/s400/112+-+7+-+Another+Scree+Shot.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The view sideways is nice, though - the pass we crossed from Salta is in the distance, crossing those hills in the middle-ground - 112<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYq_b5g4NdgMr35QYpaK1tfKXy76OBsOL9UVFY1Dl4F9whFdIJq7RIWAF-T2rBFsFFQg-Ru3-QKJhjNVJxvA_FY9sxyRgV-Lhl8HwbyuysTybA8KD2EezG_QzNSa4_Bo-hq6iRdz1I1I0B/s1600-h/112+-+8+-+5526m.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207036455303504898" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYq_b5g4NdgMr35QYpaK1tfKXy76OBsOL9UVFY1Dl4F9whFdIJq7RIWAF-T2rBFsFFQg-Ru3-QKJhjNVJxvA_FY9sxyRgV-Lhl8HwbyuysTybA8KD2EezG_QzNSa4_Bo-hq6iRdz1I1I0B/s400/112+-+8+-+5526m.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />My top - middle display shows altitude of 5526m (around 18000ft)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-dWhjpmZHIcW2VWQWM6DbhC_vNMOt9KuOpOulJejkEIXipoEdz1S1_VHGp8dK1XKKGzFEJyDMhyphenhyphene3y6u3O2cIeZIcbrX05xpdCMorghcDfX5_j65zfIqP6gkIuOmeEhNlB6SWn501EjzE/s1600-h/112+-+9+-+Abra+del+Acay+from+above.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207036455303504914" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-dWhjpmZHIcW2VWQWM6DbhC_vNMOt9KuOpOulJejkEIXipoEdz1S1_VHGp8dK1XKKGzFEJyDMhyphenhyphene3y6u3O2cIeZIcbrX05xpdCMorghcDfX5_j65zfIqP6gkIuOmeEhNlB6SWn501EjzE/s400/112+-+9+-+Abra+del+Acay+from+above.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The view towards Abra del Acay - you can make out the road in this picture - bottom left to right center) - 112<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimUYufbhCFvyOZmw6Z1MSWZqxoHIZsp5GSRC3BiECl9OgxW0Uht_U9iGxnrlHKMVDcPmsRkskiyP4Xz4lPhnayW_2wFgyvdjFBg2YjaHGZ-ZNauMqQ3kZkjALHbgxvfl_tU3KrPJ5R3VTo/s1600-h/112+-+10+-+Better+Luck+Next+Time.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207036459598472226" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimUYufbhCFvyOZmw6Z1MSWZqxoHIZsp5GSRC3BiECl9OgxW0Uht_U9iGxnrlHKMVDcPmsRkskiyP4Xz4lPhnayW_2wFgyvdjFBg2YjaHGZ-ZNauMqQ3kZkjALHbgxvfl_tU3KrPJ5R3VTo/s400/112+-+10+-+Better+Luck+Next+Time.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Better luck next time - that is the summit<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoMBqGCH4TUFF9gOqNPQ-CKajntw4_N-FcEB4liauAK-W4FX_nE9_vIv8KviCax9kPdeYXqSLDfQoSy0O6sR1uALVELoGLV113i-pzyxeSGnMoVhWxQSBvJ-lvMqAkRWSFP1T-X9ir1aG7/s1600-h/112+-+11+-+The+Way+Down.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207035557655339922" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoMBqGCH4TUFF9gOqNPQ-CKajntw4_N-FcEB4liauAK-W4FX_nE9_vIv8KviCax9kPdeYXqSLDfQoSy0O6sR1uALVELoGLV113i-pzyxeSGnMoVhWxQSBvJ-lvMqAkRWSFP1T-X9ir1aG7/s400/112+-+11+-+The+Way+Down.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The way down<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis_WTDsRhgoJJf8DpjqBpwSl74jagApmfe6dFw3a4HNBI-YQreNa7z2aQ00bYYuqLFCtsAwtQJ6ta_zn70WJ4NVT9BLcPG-diMSskPjNDA82JHns_VnDIzPESpgrI7aM7YYFzboQhkKzv6/s1600-h/112+-+12+-+Papoosa.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207035561950307234" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis_WTDsRhgoJJf8DpjqBpwSl74jagApmfe6dFw3a4HNBI-YQreNa7z2aQ00bYYuqLFCtsAwtQJ6ta_zn70WJ4NVT9BLcPG-diMSskPjNDA82JHns_VnDIzPESpgrI7aM7YYFzboQhkKzv6/s400/112+-+12+-+Papoosa.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Papoosa - herb used to treat altitude issues - crush and inhale or make tea.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNN10QbjLApYPP4SqG0vm-QkvRAmcDbVYQjZfC4kRar1jstITwhP6M1bLAxNatiaMSC1oKBeonEBc41yFkGg9C5vH0QO8D6fJArhtOsNnn9nCX17U4Im9wuTZzsBffM5Hy1AOnljAKN-W/s1600-h/112+-+13+-+Neat+Green+Rock.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207035566245274546" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNN10QbjLApYPP4SqG0vm-QkvRAmcDbVYQjZfC4kRar1jstITwhP6M1bLAxNatiaMSC1oKBeonEBc41yFkGg9C5vH0QO8D6fJArhtOsNnn9nCX17U4Im9wuTZzsBffM5Hy1AOnljAKN-W/s400/112+-+13+-+Neat+Green+Rock.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Just a neat green rock<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUanA4dtvuiHtWabEFgE1VNSWDwqm7cO8GPfU4JwsxnHM999mMnvn9SJrGG0zQjP3t9Q23nC1wYUmovYl3NbnGqRcgJ7tZZ4EYQoJtw2e9glirwYrg4FaB-8nwXhHQVM8gvHeigAVYy6w/s1600-h/112+-+14+-+First+look+at+Vicunas.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207035566245274562" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUanA4dtvuiHtWabEFgE1VNSWDwqm7cO8GPfU4JwsxnHM999mMnvn9SJrGG0zQjP3t9Q23nC1wYUmovYl3NbnGqRcgJ7tZZ4EYQoJtw2e9glirwYrg4FaB-8nwXhHQVM8gvHeigAVYy6w/s400/112+-+14+-+First+look+at+Vicunas.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Some vicunas on the way down<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDmAN54JPzi3L27Dql6SOQraY9hyphenhyphenl_hDmsADfJXR-d9j-PnGvbF0QbP3uETUoG0JuHcTEILVegp_tZU8cvm9EtHJNyZXlzjhzsvpgUoP99X5vgFhPLTCELC-tR-Vq-ea6ql8sV8ROnhmzY/s1600-h/112+-+15+-+Looking+Back.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207035652144620498" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDmAN54JPzi3L27Dql6SOQraY9hyphenhyphenl_hDmsADfJXR-d9j-PnGvbF0QbP3uETUoG0JuHcTEILVegp_tZU8cvm9EtHJNyZXlzjhzsvpgUoP99X5vgFhPLTCELC-tR-Vq-ea6ql8sV8ROnhmzY/s400/112+-+15+-+Looking+Back.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Final view back towards cerra Nevado on day 112.</div><div><br /> </div><div>Week 16 - the altiplano at last<br />DAY 106<br />We finally make it out of Salta, a day late, and by the time we hit the hypermarket out of town, it's already afternoon. But we have plenty of food and water and are ready to start climbing with a full assortment of weight. The first 30km or so are pretty easy - just a gradual climb - there's even a bike path for part of the way. Then it's down to business as the road meets the train of the clouds - a pretty amazing work of engineering which takes you from around 1200 to 4200m over lots and lots of bridges, switchbacks, tunnels (and at least 1 cemetary).<br />Of course it's not running at the moment - apparently broke down on a bridge a couple of years ago with temps dropping at night to around -18C (0F) - not a fun evacuation. That and recent track replacement work apparently resulted in the wrong track being ordered. Of course, this is all second hand, so possibly just rumors. But it really isn't running at the moment. However, Ruta 51 mostly parallels it so we get the mostly the same effect, plus the pleasure of blowing our lungs and legs out as we climb and climb and climb.<br /><br />You could probably do this as 2 very long climbs, but with our late start it's looking more like 3 somewhat long days - about 1000m of non-stop climbing each day. The climbing itself isn't that hard, it's just continuous, plus the frequent moderate headwinds make things rather unpleasant.<br />We get a fairly decent first day in and climb nearly 1000m. We also see quite a few neat sites - lots of train bridges. We even venture onto one of them. Evening finds us along another abandoned road leading down to the river valley we're climbing. Perhaps a bit of a mistake we didn't go a few more km - about 25km of the climb is unpaved, so each truck passing blankets our campsite in a thin layer of fine dust.<br /><br />Well, one amazing aside - I'm shooting a few pictures today and notice something - the annoying blemish on my Canon's sensor has moved - I now have spots somewhere else in my pictures. It's a miracle - the guys were right - all my camera needed was a 2-day, $110 repair; or an accidental drop onto the floor of a youth hostel. Awesome - I love my Canon again. I sharply bang the camera with my hand a few more times and Presto! Blemish is gone [over a month later as I post this it's still holding out fine!].<br /><br />DAY 107<br />Well, just keep climbing and climbing - this isn't ending any time soon. We get back onto paved road and hit a police checkpoint who tells to forget about trying for the pass today - just head for a town up the road at around 3100m in altitude. We can camp there. Plus he gives us water and while there, he stops a couple motorcyclists heading the other way - including a couple from Minnesota (complete with MN plates) - so we have a bit of a Midwest gathering here in remote northern Argentina.<br /><br />Climb climb climb. We break for lunch, then it's back to climbing. The road is only between 2-3%, but you definitely feel it - especially when the wind blows. By late afternoon we pass a shack advertizing essentials, although I feel a bit like Deliverance. Walking into the building is something like an abandoned party hall with a few locals who just look at me. After inquiring about bread I'm sent to the next building where a family is gathered around the table - again I seem to be intruding, but in rural Argentina, informal stores aren't unusual. I just don't feel all that welcome. But they do have bread and we continue.<br /><br />We make the mentioned town - Santa Rosa de Tastil - and it's somewhat similar to the shack place - one street, no signs on any buildings and one kinda open building selling local handicrafts - I end up with a nice set of finger gloves and hat - all from llama wool. Next to the store is a public restroom, which is conveniently locked as soon as the tourists go. And across the street is a locked museum - but if the right person is around to unlock it - just ask - you can go in [the next morning I have a look around - worth a quick tour - quite a few local artefacts including a dessicated mummy]. And in theory there's a restaurant, but it, too, seems closed. We set up camp in the municipal park - which does have a potable water tap! It's back to the river which is still catching a few rays of sun for a brief rinse off of the dust of the last few days.<br /><br />We make dinner and are getting ready to hit the sack when one of the non-descript doors on the only street comes alive and soon the town is gathered for the evening BBQ, but we've already eaten. Oh well. The smoke and noise continue for awhile but eventually we do catch some shuteye.<br /><br />Day 108 -<br />Today should be the day - two days on this climb already and the summit isn't too much further - around 4100m - or 1000 higher than Santa Rosa. From there it's down 300m to San Antonio de los Cobres - San Antonio of the Copper so you can imagine what kind of industries dominate around here. While the means have changed a lot and the process is a lot safer, things haven't changed all that much since Spanish conquest.<br /><br />Most of the trucks passing us seem related to mining - delivering the chemicals needed for purifying the ore.<br /><br />Anyway, the day is pretty uneventful. We make summit at a reasonable hour - our highest point to date, or ever for that matter - my GPS says 4120m while the sign reads 4080 (around 13500ft). We celebrate with a warm drink. The pass is fairly craggy with a windy serpentine road - and then you've reached the altiplano. While you do immediately descend, it isn't very far - a few 100 meters and you're on the valley floor. San Antonio is about as low as we'll go for the next few days.<br /><br />The valleys are fairly broad with very little vegetation (lots of basins with salt flats in this part of the world). Wildlife is mostly related to the llama family - picunas, llamas (both similar to the guanacos from down south). The picunas are quite delicate with little fur. They're almost all wild and protected.<br /><br />We continue towards San Antonio. I'm nursing a nasty sore throat, but Dave is also not feeling too good with a headache and blurry vision. I'd like to make town but he doesn't feel it, so we end up around 10km short in the desert under amazingly colorful skies. Another fairly cold night, although I really pack on the clothes and have a nice toasty night (complete with mild fever) despite freezing temperatures.<br /><br />Roads are mostly good - the pass and the next 20-odd km are paved to the hamlet of Munonez. The rest to San Ant. and onward is ripio - mostly ok, but a lot of washboard to slow us down. Winds aren't too bad (i.e. from here and there but pretty light)<br /><br />Day 109<br />Well, today really is the day. Only 10km which last suprisingly long thanks to a few blasts of wind whipping up various canyons as well as poor road conditions. But we make town before lunch and immediately find a friendly tourist info office. Igancio will turn out to be a good friend over the next few days. He is also an entrepreneur looking to open up an hospedaje. At the moment he's able to book us into a new little house on the edge of town. It is cozy. But despite weather that is often below freezing at night (including all the nights we're here) and fairly new government construction, quality construction is still mostly out of reach. Single pane windows and a pretty drafty place including a vertical shaft to the sky to function as an exhaust for the stove. There's a 2kW space heater for company, but at night it struggles to keep the living room over 10C.<br /><br />In general, it's going to be cold. Everyone bundles up - a little during the day and a lot more at night.<br /><br />I head for bed. Dave starts the shower heater and catches some quality cable TV. I am soon awake again as Dave is rather upset. There's a lot of smoke and a mostly melted heater. Dave was unaware that this is a manual unit - you fill it with water (VERY important), then plug it in, then wait. Eventually, you unplug it and let a little water out to check the temp - too cold, repeat last step; too warm, add some more water.<br /><br />Anyway, forget that critical first step and in a few minutes you have a fireball in your bathroom, which was our situation. While the system is fairly simple - it still is fairly dangerous way to heat water (there's a sticker on the side reminding you to unplug it before actually starting the shower).<br /><br />I realize that quality often costs more, but is usually more than worth it in the long run. In B.A. we were waiting for a lunch table while an electrical fire broke out in a junction box a few feet away and quickly self-extinguished once enough metal was arc-ed through; leaving a big black mark on the wall. After observing all this, everyone commented a bit and then pretty much went back to talking and in our case waiting for a table. Just a normal thing. I guess as an engineer I often find it painful to watch. Having stuff just work without much thought or effort is so nice (of course, the quantity of resources the first world squanders to have stuff work easily is a whole different can of worms - a sustainable quality environment still seems very elusive).<br /><br />Anyway, a few hours later, another heater was installed - 2 screws and a mostly non-leaking union and a cord to plug it in and you're good to go. Except this unit was pre-cracked and leaked far too much for it's own good, so a few more hours later another heater was installed. Only problem this time was the screws had no anchor and all these heater changes meant the concrete was worn out, so the new unit listed at a fairly alarming angle with 20l of water or so. So the next day we got a new anchor - just a bit too small so same problem. Amazing chain of events from a simple misunderstanding.<br /><br />Anyway, back to S. Antonio - a somewhat eerie place - at least for me. All streets are one adobe building after another - all very similar and all with no gaps between them, directly fronting the street - creating a wall effect.<br /><br />But it grows on you. Poverty is apparent, but everything you need is here and Ignacio and his friend Abel are amazing civic promoters. Ignacio will give me a tour in a couple days - we even have dinner and on our last day breakfast together. Warm people in a cold climate.<br />But besides the shower excitement, the rest of the day is fairly ordinary - which is good as I just want to get over this sinus/sore throat/fever/cold annoyance.<br /><br />Day 110<br /><br />If you make it here, you'll see paintings of a train bridge everywhere - one of the local icons - the terminal bridge of the Tren de los Nubes. The train line itself keeps going although I believe that pretty much all train service in Chile and Argentina are dead. I won't see a functioning train until Bolivia.<br /><br />In our particular case, the disfuction is pretty useful - the roads here are pretty tough and trains require low grades and a smooth running surface. While riding over rail ties/sleepers would be a nightmare, there's enough rock and blowing sand so that only the actual rails are visible and we have a nice bicycle path all the way to the bridge.<br /><br />So that's our day. We don't get an early start and the path isn't terribly direct and we're constantly wondering just when that #$% bridge is going to appear. The path is pretty good, but in plenty of spots the sand is washed/blown out so you need to watch it.<br /><br />By around 3:30 we finally see Minas Concordia - an abandoned mine on an abandoned line. We have a look around. We were told this is close which is good as it's getting late. We continue onwards and after another bend or two - there it finally is - this high canyon bridge in all its spindly steel glory.<br /><br />We cross on foot and push the bikes along for a few fun shots. I know it's only been in disuse for a year or two but we still wonder about the quality of the structure in a few spots. Still, we spend some quality time here and then head back to San Antonio via gravel roads.<br /><br />Much faster, much rougher. We pass some hot springs (named after Pompei, although I only see icicles - but am sure there must be hot water here somewhere) and at one point I notice my lock is gone. Double-checking some recent pictures I had it at the summit - bounced off along the way. Didn't like that Kryptonite cable lock much anyway, so one less problem (wasn't the first time it fell off, either, and it was always rubbing against my legs) - now I only need to procure a replacement.<br /><br />Soon we're back in town and back at the tourist info office and then at a local bike shop and I have my replacment.<br /><br />Not much else to report on today.<br /><br />Day 111 -<br />Ignacio is holding a morning tour today for the tourism class at the local collegio (like high school) and invites me to tag along. Besides the early hour, it's a fun way to get a brief history of the region including the old government building now police dept.<br /><br />Otherwise it's a pretty lazy day. I like to always get some riding in and would love to try the Abra del Acay - a nearly 5000m high pass on Ruta 40 about 40km from town. But it's already afternoon - way to late for an 80km ride on extreme roads plus all that climbing. I just head out onto Ruta 40 anyway and make it about 21km from town with a nice view of the pass. It does give me the idea to try something more challenging, though. I talk with Igancio about his climbs of Nevado del Acay - a nearly 6000m mountain near the pass. Sure would be a nice thing to try. Takes 2 days and he'll think about being our guide...<br /><br />Day 112 -<br />May 2nd - my Big High Day<br /><br />After Ignacio gave us the tour yesterday, we got to talking a bit about his hike up Cerro Nevado - he's done it 8 times so far, although he complained about temperatures well below freezing the last time up. I guess you don't get much sleep at "base camp" around 5000m. I asked him about possibly guiding Dave & me up and he thought it over, and by dinner his answer was no. So I prodded a bit and asked about possibilities for a day trip - in the end he said it couldn't be done from San Antonio - possibly if I caught the morning bus to the summit road, and if I brought my bike to head 13km up a mining road to the final climb. He also gave me the information I needed to find that road.<br /><br />I guess "couldn't be done" is often code for something I should at least try, so around 7:20am, about 40min before sunrise, and with temps below -5C (as low as my bike computer goes), I set out for the highest bike & hike of my life.<br /><br />By around 8:20, temps finally break -5 and my thermometer starts to climb, by around 9am it's a balmy freezing and I'm at the junction to destiny - an even worse gravel road leading to Cerro Nevado de Acay - a 5950m peak which dominates views from around here.<br /><br />Did I mention the road is even worse. Ignacio said it's about 13km to from 4000 to 5000m, but the first 7km are pretty easy. Perhaps easy isn't the best word for a sandy, rocky track with plenty of washouts and lots of washboard. But it isn't too steep. And after another 45min or so I'm about 7km down the road and perhaps 200m higher. Then the fun starts - Nevado looms large ahead as the road kicks it up a notch and you start to gain altitude and lose sanity. I budgeted about 2 hours for these 13km, but it's 11am and I'm still nowhere near 5000m. I have a pretty good view of the spot I think will make a good place to dump the bike and start the hike, but it's just a distant view. The road and condition of my lungs continue to deteriorate, and by around 4500m I'm mostly pushing. I still figure this is a pretty good bargain as in a few hours I'll be tumbling down some pretty gnarly singletrack. By a bit after noon I'm finally 15km down the track, 4800m from sea level (about 15,700ft) and time to dump the bike.<br /><br />It's strange how you approach a mountain as a looming giant and as it gets closer and closer, it becomes less visible - your view is reduced to a small portion of the whole. So after a quick snack and repacking the necessary items into Dave's small backpack, I set off for the summit. I was really looking forward to dumping the bike - the last hour was torture - constantly gasping for air. However, going from perhaps a 10% grade pushing a bike up a terrible track, to a 35% grade just crossing a field of arid-alpine plants, well, it wasn't much of an improvement. I was still gasping for air every few steps. But over the first 30min or so I did cover about 200m vertical so things were progressing OK - just 900 to go. I needed a bit more food and by 1:30 I was facing what would become my constant adversary - a big wall of reddish-brown scree - a mixture of boulders down to sand - and as far up as I could see.<br /><br />So after another 30 minutes or so, I start to approach the rocks I saw from below - i.e. to hit the next ridge - only the mountain reclines away from me and presents me with another wall of scree. This is pretty much my entire afternoon. Soon it's 3:10 or so and my 3:30 turnaround time is looming. The summit is still not in sight, just more scree and I'm getting rather frustrated. Turn around here? I decide to shoot for 5500m - 18000ft. I'm getting close - and then finally, the ridge turns out to be the real deal - there's the summit just looming in front of me, taunting me. It's amazing how something like that rejuvanates the lungs - the last 30m of vertical just fly by and I'm at 5530m - and as close as I'll get to the summit. Still - some amazing views all around. I'm tempted to keep going - it's all so close now, but I know it's still another 400m up and probably a good 90min. Plus it's starting to get really cold and I know I still have a long ways back. Oh well - there probably won't be a next time, but who knows. I enjoy the views from here as long as I can and start the much more rapid descent.<br /><br />Scree is a pain on the way up - frequently rocks start sliding away from underneath you. But this can be your friend on the way down - a kind of surfing to take punishment off the knees. The 3 1/2hours of ascent turn into 75min of descent - going down is so much easier on the lungs, no need to pause at all. And soon I'm back at the bike - protected from the wind and basking in the sun - still at a fairly towering altitude - I can easily spot the pass we crossed to get to San Antonio a few days ago. A final meal and it's time to turn the 3 hours of tortuous cycling ascent into some well deserved, if slightly insane, high-speed descent. Nothing makes you more like one with a bicycle than a pounding descent - scouting for normal rocks vs. dangerous rocks in the gravel trail while zooming down the mountainside. Yeah, I live for this. Again, 3 hours is converted into a bit over 1 on the return trip (I stop for quite a few pics), and finally it's time for the last stretch of road leading back to San Antonio. Actually, it's not all road, after the trip to the high rail bridge, I've discovered a preference for following rail lines over dusty gravel roads - so about 5km or so are on the rail line again - this time just as it's getting dark - and finally by around 8:10, I'm back to civilization as the lights of San Antonio come into view.<br /><br />My Big High Day mostly over, but Gudrun and Jan Willem from way back at the end of the Carretera Australe have made it into town and after grabbing some groceries for a well deserved dinner, we all meet up and discuss the trip ahead...</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-64274547740156851732008-05-12T19:51:00.000-07:002008-05-30T11:18:42.556-07:00Week 14 - Iguazu Falls, San Igancio, Tucuman<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju-z7IWxlu7OOLzycyJ0sunb3k1-6ULH8jcl2qRVP2ktFYo3fF05WBUDMkpcaTXnZjRxn0jUO9qX30EklDuUaQkDRV3vQmeaEWlipnfwpe9b4O5GYTk2FE2xcavBbzYn3X4-jIywsl19cT/s1600-h/095+-+20+-+I+Made+It.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204876967221911602" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju-z7IWxlu7OOLzycyJ0sunb3k1-6ULH8jcl2qRVP2ktFYo3fF05WBUDMkpcaTXnZjRxn0jUO9qX30EklDuUaQkDRV3vQmeaEWlipnfwpe9b4O5GYTk2FE2xcavBbzYn3X4-jIywsl19cT/s400/095+-+20+-+I+Made+It.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4fTovgpmi6p5BgzAS4a8bieKocWU9BhWr4l4edJZA7KsGQmQn7YqwrJqewJp1RRRdLCDbb9Grlf4BjhWLuR_rfwsXpbEyWNIr5zHSqV-ngC5Tajxqn0U0885uAvSwXeWm55S9egwd0GKq/s1600-h/095+-+21+-+Devils+Throat.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204876971516878914" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4fTovgpmi6p5BgzAS4a8bieKocWU9BhWr4l4edJZA7KsGQmQn7YqwrJqewJp1RRRdLCDbb9Grlf4BjhWLuR_rfwsXpbEyWNIr5zHSqV-ngC5Tajxqn0U0885uAvSwXeWm55S9egwd0GKq/s400/095+-+21+-+Devils+Throat.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3s-RyJmqhCgKUhVvNmnuVH0pFFukIIwCImTq8AAy_MsNpjQE_9QS-chCWACFiB2-LKw0x_95AcqnNKL2BbGphmnu_CnsZ80th9eX9ctAJDbCoi_QAywFJKU5-Daf7FVjF_91PUeLmIMM/s1600-h/095+-+22+-+Devils+Throat+2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204876971516878930" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3s-RyJmqhCgKUhVvNmnuVH0pFFukIIwCImTq8AAy_MsNpjQE_9QS-chCWACFiB2-LKw0x_95AcqnNKL2BbGphmnu_CnsZ80th9eX9ctAJDbCoi_QAywFJKU5-Daf7FVjF_91PUeLmIMM/s400/095+-+22+-+Devils+Throat+2.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguSlJ7IzS5lCX1sQeF8gpFwcaXbZAGC-uK1CNjXbNLsHy7qk-d9UdEtdd2AGmTfm0mzc-MINRcG6cduN30ss2kNw-NT3u5wvb7F0lYrIz-Y2d9mF-tO2r-yi-mf8FZKY6CPYGDrtrRcPD3/s1600-h/095+-+23+-+Devils+Throat++-+the+background.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204876975811846242" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguSlJ7IzS5lCX1sQeF8gpFwcaXbZAGC-uK1CNjXbNLsHy7qk-d9UdEtdd2AGmTfm0mzc-MINRcG6cduN30ss2kNw-NT3u5wvb7F0lYrIz-Y2d9mF-tO2r-yi-mf8FZKY6CPYGDrtrRcPD3/s400/095+-+23+-+Devils+Throat++-+the+background.jpg" border="0" /></a> OK, editing this is becoming a real pain. Looking forward to some quality time with my laptop when I get home. Anyway, here are now all the pics from week 14. Still have some video to upload, but that will have to wait. All these photos are of Garganta del Diabolo (devil´s throat) at Iguazu falls on day 95. Except below which is from San Igancio on day 96.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsQAqEix3Q0PUT1R-arZeUhcyQCGmpJMJVT3KYVWn8cuVlyQQv12t2OJeB24yv6VUzm8yeinTsrnSEE-YFFni3bHlpb87SqcyX-m_Qa3OlFl66pt_q96G0OdlbVAWUT7B0JNjJ8m2zhotl/s1600-h/096+-+2+-+San+Ignacio+2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204876975811846258" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsQAqEix3Q0PUT1R-arZeUhcyQCGmpJMJVT3KYVWn8cuVlyQQv12t2OJeB24yv6VUzm8yeinTsrnSEE-YFFni3bHlpb87SqcyX-m_Qa3OlFl66pt_q96G0OdlbVAWUT7B0JNjJ8m2zhotl/s400/096+-+2+-+San+Ignacio+2.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJpltlBh9jsbLkjVaotVGNWT0Rm8b_d_T6UGUT08oUATwMuoMMjc3eo8yJzOALbMfifJEvrgufoDHvHLksibW_PdoLNPxGanqTJR2AAi8MzfGMTIYQ25KG9DMm8aCLrKQL3sDnSGXVR9mn/s1600-h/096+-+1+-+San+Ignacio.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204869455324110882" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJpltlBh9jsbLkjVaotVGNWT0Rm8b_d_T6UGUT08oUATwMuoMMjc3eo8yJzOALbMfifJEvrgufoDHvHLksibW_PdoLNPxGanqTJR2AAi8MzfGMTIYQ25KG9DMm8aCLrKQL3sDnSGXVR9mn/s400/096+-+1+-+San+Ignacio.jpg" border="0" /></a>Hi all,</div><br /><div>here are some new pictures and the final (for now) text of week 14, again poorly formatted.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>These are the ruins of San Ignacio de Mini or something like that, near Posadas in Missiones, Argentina (Day 96). Drat, somehow just deleted an image by typing this in. Oh well, more editing for a later date.<br /></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JEbiMSo5aMcWO9KgCYfkKBfDpEOLxMRTN9xnXvZQIQxtOqSYqYHm7o7nqeL7Y8Hmbs03CmjENq0Tl2Pj5qm5pewImQoW2L9FO11A5ZNnLogljW_geg_cUR9t1TlDoAnBTxT4z1JKshqM/s1600-h/096+-+3+-+San+Ignacio+3.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204868725179670498" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JEbiMSo5aMcWO9KgCYfkKBfDpEOLxMRTN9xnXvZQIQxtOqSYqYHm7o7nqeL7Y8Hmbs03CmjENq0Tl2Pj5qm5pewImQoW2L9FO11A5ZNnLogljW_geg_cUR9t1TlDoAnBTxT4z1JKshqM/s400/096+-+3+-+San+Ignacio+3.jpg" border="0" /></a> More Ruins<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZsjAoYmAblNtAP1ZZNMausB0ywxthOBlvlQJKJrPi5FkywurULX91JTBvaklS0cSO0UJN7TstwlPCRjn-4GgTMVixQC8KJVzIurf6ohZbWW9YKvYmEK_DZoZMvQLWtvwPVajc70MQDlSn/s1600-h/096+-+4+-+San+Ignacio+4.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204868725179670514" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZsjAoYmAblNtAP1ZZNMausB0ywxthOBlvlQJKJrPi5FkywurULX91JTBvaklS0cSO0UJN7TstwlPCRjn-4GgTMVixQC8KJVzIurf6ohZbWW9YKvYmEK_DZoZMvQLWtvwPVajc70MQDlSn/s400/096+-+4+-+San+Ignacio+4.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegNlTrQ-0uodZHfsQa4KEgTraflPwlQsX5yqY4a3yadHuK48E2AotM_e3Ilecv-FLsgr-tF6XQ4n02jDAZrUiwmgDjhmfnI5nsZvGk72OltxG6evpgiEJXMPQrPr8DDrmF4uCHwCwbYeF/s1600-h/096+-+5+-+San+Ignacio+5.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204868729474637826" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegNlTrQ-0uodZHfsQa4KEgTraflPwlQsX5yqY4a3yadHuK48E2AotM_e3Ilecv-FLsgr-tF6XQ4n02jDAZrUiwmgDjhmfnI5nsZvGk72OltxG6evpgiEJXMPQrPr8DDrmF4uCHwCwbYeF/s400/096+-+5+-+San+Ignacio+5.jpg" border="0" /></a> The Jesuit insignia, I think<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3cw7KO3ENw62BrUgHY8KLayM5inQaGD7id8j_SIgRTv34sOCy3I6GWoK3XfxLIzwofpjigrW8oi_KZYcaPKwoz99qTP_6IFRI7BgRioF_xn4aLKx3m6ytQZ01FGCstFALAMyu3YUSyvYe/s1600-h/097+-+1+-+Tucuman+center.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204868729474637842" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3cw7KO3ENw62BrUgHY8KLayM5inQaGD7id8j_SIgRTv34sOCy3I6GWoK3XfxLIzwofpjigrW8oi_KZYcaPKwoz99qTP_6IFRI7BgRioF_xn4aLKx3m6ytQZ01FGCstFALAMyu3YUSyvYe/s400/097+-+1+-+Tucuman+center.jpg" border="0" /></a> Downtown Tucuman<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRJxZigtC7Hy0XmgYNLjPnxa-KZbj2eX4cJOm5Sy-tjqrS54xakKGMbpu5kP3t9x2yHczF3NfBZS-uGo9juNbOVCh_BO2mCqGprzgt_UBgxShlCkwsJgcbjmw6cBeqzByp-CPmpI35tkfE/s1600-h/097+-+2+-+Tucuman+abandoned+train+line+signal.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204867561243533186" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRJxZigtC7Hy0XmgYNLjPnxa-KZbj2eX4cJOm5Sy-tjqrS54xakKGMbpu5kP3t9x2yHczF3NfBZS-uGo9juNbOVCh_BO2mCqGprzgt_UBgxShlCkwsJgcbjmw6cBeqzByp-CPmpI35tkfE/s400/097+-+2+-+Tucuman+abandoned+train+line+signal.jpg" border="0" /></a> An abandoned train line - complete with abandoned signal hardware near downtown Tucuman<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5JAhZodyZplQoIkjYkdbQlfXRrXWAh33D-Oq5tanvhGaWlKauNwOYwKXe_ddI2z84C_s35ZWjxk1aJMze-Ch1Oc9lrohyET1LZcEgszhXIUQn0khrzHS1qlk01Bj_FGbX9dS1v94jlbZq/s1600-h/097+-+3+-+Tucuman+park.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204867569833467794" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5JAhZodyZplQoIkjYkdbQlfXRrXWAh33D-Oq5tanvhGaWlKauNwOYwKXe_ddI2z84C_s35ZWjxk1aJMze-Ch1Oc9lrohyET1LZcEgszhXIUQn0khrzHS1qlk01Bj_FGbX9dS1v94jlbZq/s400/097+-+3+-+Tucuman+park.jpg" border="0" /></a> Big Park near bus terminal, Tucuman - 96<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZerJrEhhiaVvJ8OVHadIQWNmW6XhWQ0j6oIBSfDk4xAklOfqU5j1Gdalr6qqBeVShomW7_RZh9J3WyGv6ZRrkl-i1lubRPDmaa1DKj7opAVRK63oJ3ESYcypEwFPDzyKPEFn4cjS0rXb/s1600-h/098+-+1+-+Finally+on+the+road+again.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204867569833467810" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZerJrEhhiaVvJ8OVHadIQWNmW6XhWQ0j6oIBSfDk4xAklOfqU5j1Gdalr6qqBeVShomW7_RZh9J3WyGv6ZRrkl-i1lubRPDmaa1DKj7opAVRK63oJ3ESYcypEwFPDzyKPEFn4cjS0rXb/s400/098+-+1+-+Finally+on+the+road+again.jpg" border="0" /></a> Finally, back in the saddle on day 98.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Bd_VJ8RPg7zmTwDmB6AgdtOhfP7rAKzSNWrrVOJJWkY4KwYC1s2LPYQhvSQhOWDibar0DRDp70HOOozxbVA9vhTFQyGh5DwaND-Y9UBhbUj-s4gTpDG6gVH51ddzb-hHT4eQ0D1TlVgL/s1600-h/098+-+2+-+The+mountains+ahead.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204867569833467826" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Bd_VJ8RPg7zmTwDmB6AgdtOhfP7rAKzSNWrrVOJJWkY4KwYC1s2LPYQhvSQhOWDibar0DRDp70HOOozxbVA9vhTFQyGh5DwaND-Y9UBhbUj-s4gTpDG6gVH51ddzb-hHT4eQ0D1TlVgL/s400/098+-+2+-+The+mountains+ahead.jpg" border="0" /></a> Those hazy mountains await us.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgvpX-pwykweCQhMiMS66ylwBkXtp9QjGVUgyATowtzcAd1muxZClT88jh52eF9Ks0JQjqGOeyCWWVfm0H0uJTqXLIgHAyqfufEaoqeHz9S0BVDK7hGbNCeiS3pcIixEulVX0d7ygGF_Bo/s1600-h/098+-+3+-+Camp.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204867574128435138" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgvpX-pwykweCQhMiMS66ylwBkXtp9QjGVUgyATowtzcAd1muxZClT88jh52eF9Ks0JQjqGOeyCWWVfm0H0uJTqXLIgHAyqfufEaoqeHz9S0BVDK7hGbNCeiS3pcIixEulVX0d7ygGF_Bo/s400/098+-+3+-+Camp.jpg" border="0" /></a> 1st camp again after a long time.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Week 14 - Iguazu Falls!<br />Sorry this is a bit rushed - just in San Pedro in week 17 and about to leave - this week isn't even finished yet, but there are quite a few pics of the falls at least - and most of the text. Still need editing, but for now - feel free to enjoy this rough draft.<br /><br />Markus<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIZj6woEbTdZM6KPggd_dUb-cVcR40KbAHp5uguGxzK8_zs32o_3Ztm2Ruc4_P7XIf6Znr4xhasAu57UcJ_ki414G8BsL2-qhVHavhGGbID4lKaB8CqKd7RQACI9W6QlZbdfhUwfnj37nA/s1600-h/092+-+1+-+Hang+On.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200220974922076146" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIZj6woEbTdZM6KPggd_dUb-cVcR40KbAHp5uguGxzK8_zs32o_3Ztm2Ruc4_P7XIf6Znr4xhasAu57UcJ_ki414G8BsL2-qhVHavhGGbID4lKaB8CqKd7RQACI9W6QlZbdfhUwfnj37nA/s400/092+-+1+-+Hang+On.jpg" border="0" /></a> Amusement park at Tigre near BA - day 92 (coaster is just going down)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcG-SFOoYMZuJJR8R67vgVGXlzi-e3ZW6znJjoV6wRjlvTebPCdXWfKyr5TejpLsDNXC36ghnUKtxUgO14nyAltPH4zZQAlIB3C5SEDMbJIo63VeRIMcc_HFSgt-x0egFtg4aWDrwqCtC1/s1600-h/092+-+1+-+Train+Station.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200220983512010754" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcG-SFOoYMZuJJR8R67vgVGXlzi-e3ZW6znJjoV6wRjlvTebPCdXWfKyr5TejpLsDNXC36ghnUKtxUgO14nyAltPH4zZQAlIB3C5SEDMbJIo63VeRIMcc_HFSgt-x0egFtg4aWDrwqCtC1/s400/092+-+1+-+Train+Station.jpg" border="0" /></a> BA train station<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWnFPVi9GvGWJ5_ZcJihQJ_bOY-JrFm0gk2oFADerSPElmDkcbGLVjnWb7Ha3gsbvcb5hFM0-4ADwLyOrU_XRfyFOW5KfZf-lZgu0D50MRT0VxPlW_Ds-zYSPBw75P9oJpQcdUJMIO16h1/s1600-h/092+-+2+-+Fancy+Train+Station+-+Tigre.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200220987806978066" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWnFPVi9GvGWJ5_ZcJihQJ_bOY-JrFm0gk2oFADerSPElmDkcbGLVjnWb7Ha3gsbvcb5hFM0-4ADwLyOrU_XRfyFOW5KfZf-lZgu0D50MRT0VxPlW_Ds-zYSPBw75P9oJpQcdUJMIO16h1/s400/092+-+2+-+Fancy+Train+Station+-+Tigre.jpg" border="0" /></a> Fancy Tigre train station<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFetpxoCLdcLevCXurGvbhvu5cfC_WVOZr_jn_REEQd8vA6zFTvFtni7oB6YidhYOXtVtXSJrInZdRSaKBNntRY-ZisycS-r47vHoMSAE_9n8Cuvc8f1RM76ufPWznk1t4ip1E9Cr2DaeT/s1600-h/092+-+4+-+View+from+boat.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200220992101945378" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFetpxoCLdcLevCXurGvbhvu5cfC_WVOZr_jn_REEQd8vA6zFTvFtni7oB6YidhYOXtVtXSJrInZdRSaKBNntRY-ZisycS-r47vHoMSAE_9n8Cuvc8f1RM76ufPWznk1t4ip1E9Cr2DaeT/s400/092+-+4+-+View+from+boat.jpg" border="0" /></a> Boat ride in Tigre<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjapg5ZKILx1nnTU1ryGbvTaQnRCbuZbH-ZS9r5jnRNUZ_GXa93sCbxAHtsAYECxjPYSjfnXwxdh03cd3FA80pd_DFR86_b1J23-bLnHGGGMBRSb1D3DiD_xNpnuDrCexrlN4ffJCJMmcrV/s1600-h/092+-+6+-+Boy+and+Fancy+Place.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200220523950509986" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjapg5ZKILx1nnTU1ryGbvTaQnRCbuZbH-ZS9r5jnRNUZ_GXa93sCbxAHtsAYECxjPYSjfnXwxdh03cd3FA80pd_DFR86_b1J23-bLnHGGGMBRSb1D3DiD_xNpnuDrCexrlN4ffJCJMmcrV/s400/092+-+6+-+Boy+and+Fancy+Place.jpg" border="0" /></a> Fancy house from boat<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6kRrgaxJQ0pVO0T7M3Pgk48k7ktIFnQgxIQM2X9bT_AdjO_DFoflHlNHD76rQTCTsuOif48CWDHKH3UDg6lPfQoYHchTfQ5GWEYETmW7QsALtwignSCAVFdrJbZVocU35LujEqF5kOyn/s1600-h/092+-+7+-+Not+So+Fancy+Place.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200220532540444594" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6kRrgaxJQ0pVO0T7M3Pgk48k7ktIFnQgxIQM2X9bT_AdjO_DFoflHlNHD76rQTCTsuOif48CWDHKH3UDg6lPfQoYHchTfQ5GWEYETmW7QsALtwignSCAVFdrJbZVocU35LujEqF5kOyn/s400/092+-+7+-+Not+So+Fancy+Place.jpg" border="0" /></a> Not so fancy view<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjb6iPX6dKHhfyeINErVZHR1Jx8WONn_IJr-fVl13JRuVP1evnmttdeKjk1_gWHOevzx-TJIwTgFGJZ4tHlNxghoamCY3DMIWw-UEmpgUcwfw_zNr9gpqW6puBgUlCGgvEcpdXjeLl4s2g/s1600-h/092+-+8+-+Contrasts.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200220536835411906" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjb6iPX6dKHhfyeINErVZHR1Jx8WONn_IJr-fVl13JRuVP1evnmttdeKjk1_gWHOevzx-TJIwTgFGJZ4tHlNxghoamCY3DMIWw-UEmpgUcwfw_zNr9gpqW6puBgUlCGgvEcpdXjeLl4s2g/s400/092+-+8+-+Contrasts.jpg" border="0" /></a> Interesting position<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-a3my1EA_3SOJXAsueYf2XRb1jVwAak19RBBzg2LIlA3aYkmNyCSO2nUa3xO25OgQJHsQzYlTcUXJ7Fjx3yn5AbXs0jpGfmXn7vmxfkJUVCLc5Rg6Hs5Izc5E_5LTNM2Po_EL4aGbEuK/s1600-h/092+-+9+-+Guess+whos+coming+to+town.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200220541130379218" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-a3my1EA_3SOJXAsueYf2XRb1jVwAak19RBBzg2LIlA3aYkmNyCSO2nUa3xO25OgQJHsQzYlTcUXJ7Fjx3yn5AbXs0jpGfmXn7vmxfkJUVCLc5Rg6Hs5Izc5E_5LTNM2Po_EL4aGbEuK/s400/092+-+9+-+Guess+whos+coming+to+town.jpg" border="0" /></a> Guess who? Just outside BA heading for Puerto Iguazu<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21dv3C2MJkfysPXCIzz4NHLMtPwQdZAhUUgUuhZQIMeHH8A-od8WbzHkSbZh6mGI1XOWvnd4RI2MpdcvqdQbvPDFXUB4mSOy9IdMPCgU6VDqmbUyJxNcukRirZRRSWDcS82R0zSqh34yz/s1600-h/094+-+1+-+3+countries+point.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200220549720313826" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21dv3C2MJkfysPXCIzz4NHLMtPwQdZAhUUgUuhZQIMeHH8A-od8WbzHkSbZh6mGI1XOWvnd4RI2MpdcvqdQbvPDFXUB4mSOy9IdMPCgU6VDqmbUyJxNcukRirZRRSWDcS82R0zSqh34yz/s400/094+-+1+-+3+countries+point.jpg" border="0" /></a>The 3 countries location - Argentine side. Day 94.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6xLUaPnf-KppdAbMnFpX98Dj-Wk-uKepMg5GRfkTn2p2JOMnTRXRkNxqeay7ea5uNAnVz0W1-oc3Cx64IhMtStnYK2Sjs1Myafnw-JaHNt7JPuzKypdBPXcgM5uWrt9W02Zt4ukw_eRBD/s1600-h/094+-+2+-+Argentine+Marker.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200216538220859218" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6xLUaPnf-KppdAbMnFpX98Dj-Wk-uKepMg5GRfkTn2p2JOMnTRXRkNxqeay7ea5uNAnVz0W1-oc3Cx64IhMtStnYK2Sjs1Myafnw-JaHNt7JPuzKypdBPXcgM5uWrt9W02Zt4ukw_eRBD/s400/094+-+2+-+Argentine+Marker.jpg" border="0" /></a> Argentine marker<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzhaU6nUIB6w-M3I_WvqG91s6e5W5AhsDtDYqDVEe9CEldE84ZTfVd5az9Yi3F9GYvl4ZR4_h2Q5h8-JxjIyONSVpY-mlbez-aOIk5KigFFL0-vo7Wn2JC0SDFeSg6wvLHJDijCQSvS_ij/s1600-h/095+-+1+-+Woodpecker.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200216546810793826" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzhaU6nUIB6w-M3I_WvqG91s6e5W5AhsDtDYqDVEe9CEldE84ZTfVd5az9Yi3F9GYvl4ZR4_h2Q5h8-JxjIyONSVpY-mlbez-aOIk5KigFFL0-vo7Wn2JC0SDFeSg6wvLHJDijCQSvS_ij/s400/095+-+1+-+Woodpecker.jpg" border="0" /></a> Woodpecker at Iguazu Park - Day 95.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg4i0d4EUgyxana6ChBt4vBjeO3m4nsE0b0dVE1RUfubJ3p_zTnFhRQ0AcC3jXM1tY61JLG7PuiN5qXy10j04slHD_0YfAJk4METNwlOYy-9WzI0Q5fnSFzBCN4i2ntAjr4-IBRvCulAP3/s1600-h/095+-+2+-+Dave+under+Fall+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200216551105761138" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg4i0d4EUgyxana6ChBt4vBjeO3m4nsE0b0dVE1RUfubJ3p_zTnFhRQ0AcC3jXM1tY61JLG7PuiN5qXy10j04slHD_0YfAJk4METNwlOYy-9WzI0Q5fnSFzBCN4i2ntAjr4-IBRvCulAP3/s400/095+-+2+-+Dave+under+Fall+1.jpg" border="0" /></a> Dave enjoying a shower<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8QH7t4NffBGCG2Oo29heB6v8PZuahbO5hQrCNtai-vo6VJ0BsOKPQPxq8qGK8HQ8leeFRnf-D6n25WPX0Rz2OKraVtc4gZ02c-jevNjiV7ryawBIs2UtbmnN4W-JF53UXizyD_3myyw6/s1600-h/095+-+3+-+Monkey.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200216555400728450" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8QH7t4NffBGCG2Oo29heB6v8PZuahbO5hQrCNtai-vo6VJ0BsOKPQPxq8qGK8HQ8leeFRnf-D6n25WPX0Rz2OKraVtc4gZ02c-jevNjiV7ryawBIs2UtbmnN4W-JF53UXizyD_3myyw6/s400/095+-+3+-+Monkey.jpg" border="0" /></a> Monkey in park<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcgP17MfxozbzMGDZWWWkHVhWjlhkpQfuQ0lQy3aDAzF3SFOrDFJkRk0RPOwLBmjv13Q7UsU5NuEydli2ZH67BIdoPlGimnDLIrcIsAsGhY3o9tLvTqMkApRSnaH_0PCQeZDC2z1LEr2SQ/s1600-h/095+-+4+-+This+Way+Please.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200216555400728466" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcgP17MfxozbzMGDZWWWkHVhWjlhkpQfuQ0lQy3aDAzF3SFOrDFJkRk0RPOwLBmjv13Q7UsU5NuEydli2ZH67BIdoPlGimnDLIrcIsAsGhY3o9tLvTqMkApRSnaH_0PCQeZDC2z1LEr2SQ/s400/095+-+4+-+This+Way+Please.jpg" border="0" /></a> I like the international waterfall sign - complete with upper and lower viewpoint icons.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdM4Yoa_8J0-a6o039HOzKJb08V9hf0l-eEvX75fKI12gjY5JUABpY1EtOrShqCjMN0pmhzV-_oBqZX2w3e0Mj3Mg8x-UlifR8h3Hp-CLtpCakfr_oh2LhIVi_DKN8SdC1bWDXXpUwwvv/s1600-h/095+-+5+-+When+Rafts+Collide.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199690602295594754" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdM4Yoa_8J0-a6o039HOzKJb08V9hf0l-eEvX75fKI12gjY5JUABpY1EtOrShqCjMN0pmhzV-_oBqZX2w3e0Mj3Mg8x-UlifR8h3Hp-CLtpCakfr_oh2LhIVi_DKN8SdC1bWDXXpUwwvv/s400/095+-+5+-+When+Rafts+Collide.jpg" border="0" /></a>Tragedy when inflatable boats collide.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDX01Y8w_WG4rXySjCvtidlZxybknStEse-Heiyqi-7iebik93vkI4JxIH83mOw2iRWxZOgnXNWKCKRQBN0TOyqAiofWwhrvpYr6QortJy1eQtiTwkvNAfnI89ckNYBjsqZ8EaW23TmTwf/s1600-h/095+-+6+-+OK+OK+the+falls.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199690606590562066" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDX01Y8w_WG4rXySjCvtidlZxybknStEse-Heiyqi-7iebik93vkI4JxIH83mOw2iRWxZOgnXNWKCKRQBN0TOyqAiofWwhrvpYr6QortJy1eQtiTwkvNAfnI89ckNYBjsqZ8EaW23TmTwf/s400/095+-+6+-+OK+OK+the+falls.jpg" border="0" /></a> Yet another amusement park ride - one boat after another awaiting a turn at getting soaked.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAsvlKa9VbozQdXG7ThgIDgfxw22UcE_e8Ii5v1lCuvEJGi7BSwpII2Srp9ctoptW_26cQf3FUdqZQFZ2847a8MGoE3YjwyQO6sG6U2ZLCtpb6ZOw6JIqhYgNhyphenhyphenv1cVtPx6KY8DS47ZUB/s1600-h/095+-+7+-+Some+Perspective.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199690606590562082" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAsvlKa9VbozQdXG7ThgIDgfxw22UcE_e8Ii5v1lCuvEJGi7BSwpII2Srp9ctoptW_26cQf3FUdqZQFZ2847a8MGoE3YjwyQO6sG6U2ZLCtpb6ZOw6JIqhYgNhyphenhyphenv1cVtPx6KY8DS47ZUB/s400/095+-+7+-+Some+Perspective.jpg" border="0" /></a>Yeah!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW9KxPiO0edmpCYgP5dyrNbu4KeGls1BfgTcYaCwhiMlxq57FlSAe0lEyoMJo3F-ovNgmAIqa7EZSAEhBZZAVnmV9f210GrVbW7UHBemMyPRvgha952FWZztTilQ7Y1MwlrgQlwwTWeJpF/s1600-h/095+-+8+-+The+Brazilian+Border.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199690606590562098" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW9KxPiO0edmpCYgP5dyrNbu4KeGls1BfgTcYaCwhiMlxq57FlSAe0lEyoMJo3F-ovNgmAIqa7EZSAEhBZZAVnmV9f210GrVbW7UHBemMyPRvgha952FWZztTilQ7Y1MwlrgQlwwTWeJpF/s400/095+-+8+-+The+Brazilian+Border.jpg" border="0" /></a> The falls along the Brazilian border.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd6KXrgBhwF9StPx_uUJGoRBrgwBa96PE2TWrNa8BK3W74J4doisQIugAZRpxBR2902FmmDAGrAfjprBN7Hi4309OSKR10HRwSgJJfRlDuAwhaCZn-UujOURoNQx3yr-MCHKYrR4y2Hlzi/s1600-h/095+-+9+-+Boat+going+into+Falls.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199690610885529410" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd6KXrgBhwF9StPx_uUJGoRBrgwBa96PE2TWrNa8BK3W74J4doisQIugAZRpxBR2902FmmDAGrAfjprBN7Hi4309OSKR10HRwSgJJfRlDuAwhaCZn-UujOURoNQx3yr-MCHKYrR4y2Hlzi/s400/095+-+9+-+Boat+going+into+Falls.jpg" border="0" /></a> More Falls<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsf3lWx5pZCIKds63eOXpTWLjqQtb6deXLJPAIt-m1SapJsWuDdzBqCO35XQ4TBUNz0Z38hmROK7bjKWZH9IP37wX81bQcZsI5k5XkK0fTKS-lNXqX5THhv3Cy-nZ2sLmAy-6GyaV5h8r2/s1600-h/095+-+10+-+Boat+Traffic+Jam.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199690194273701554" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsf3lWx5pZCIKds63eOXpTWLjqQtb6deXLJPAIt-m1SapJsWuDdzBqCO35XQ4TBUNz0Z38hmROK7bjKWZH9IP37wX81bQcZsI5k5XkK0fTKS-lNXqX5THhv3Cy-nZ2sLmAy-6GyaV5h8r2/s400/095+-+10+-+Boat+Traffic+Jam.jpg" border="0" /></a>Traffic jam at the falls.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq7muyKDRspKhazoNy6jPc8ECfiPTuLnJFO3VXAmyh9Clao80llZnHI38E35RBFT2TIV8-UJZkX24XJlvoi6cVVhzO2XHHJEyIZgZLQz2lhD9vafBN8YaRaPIdZwCgIMrxOC3L4-G6FPyx/s1600-h/095+-+11+-+Maria+Waiting.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199690198568668866" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq7muyKDRspKhazoNy6jPc8ECfiPTuLnJFO3VXAmyh9Clao80llZnHI38E35RBFT2TIV8-UJZkX24XJlvoi6cVVhzO2XHHJEyIZgZLQz2lhD9vafBN8YaRaPIdZwCgIMrxOC3L4-G6FPyx/s400/095+-+11+-+Maria+Waiting.jpg" border="0" /></a> Maria awaiting her turn<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC7WbBw0m4Vk2lIpRI80RuVtZpU0pzwxLlor56tc70nILgOvx3DsTD1y6f5possGbK0E78DipbKqwTLfQ3OnKXnkY2S927q3PZpawUkzs6xs6KZg2eqX8Y92yIfT82bwTrKvFumdB2eVDg/s1600-h/095+-+12+-+Maria+Getting+Wet.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199690198568668882" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC7WbBw0m4Vk2lIpRI80RuVtZpU0pzwxLlor56tc70nILgOvx3DsTD1y6f5possGbK0E78DipbKqwTLfQ3OnKXnkY2S927q3PZpawUkzs6xs6KZg2eqX8Y92yIfT82bwTrKvFumdB2eVDg/s400/095+-+12+-+Maria+Getting+Wet.jpg" border="0" /></a> Turns out this is Maria´s boat just after getting soaked.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN4KK3n3xfzahXEdWF5rlqUJOgSWb5TmoKKPZcIa6VXj9xKgHEDfmEWMPt7acKeTd32ESuOsmdvh-UbbeJPi6-SZmSRc_gZMXut_cdevzh3VWSeZLVzWOklWF7GNrLHmeUwfG7OganMZWI/s1600-h/095+-+13+-+More+Falls.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199690202863636194" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN4KK3n3xfzahXEdWF5rlqUJOgSWb5TmoKKPZcIa6VXj9xKgHEDfmEWMPt7acKeTd32ESuOsmdvh-UbbeJPi6-SZmSRc_gZMXut_cdevzh3VWSeZLVzWOklWF7GNrLHmeUwfG7OganMZWI/s400/095+-+13+-+More+Falls.jpg" border="0" /></a>More falls.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR8jA3L2mXY4lpOdp-WIARXyCcNswgmGRZh9lbIbSvUInTgDqfd4uJGBLlPGnj6qgITSpbhH_mmM2vx7AoRMMHyTMrzakfmelP0b-_gwtQeRvOFLerp-aDmuCzJ_MDmL_dA5FWwYW2rxME/s1600-h/095+-+14+-+Still+More+Falls.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199690202863636210" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR8jA3L2mXY4lpOdp-WIARXyCcNswgmGRZh9lbIbSvUInTgDqfd4uJGBLlPGnj6qgITSpbhH_mmM2vx7AoRMMHyTMrzakfmelP0b-_gwtQeRvOFLerp-aDmuCzJ_MDmL_dA5FWwYW2rxME/s400/095+-+14+-+Still+More+Falls.jpg" border="0" /></a>Yeah, I like this place, too.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjosC1PY8s_LGXBZ3nVQhEi3_Z9inrsPiUjwObPJGfviQPhs4MJ7PcmzRAPvSqzzAKcJBoCxDgIULzN9hWIOrn0ddT42L5krmsyfuuK5i3QYBVUO03hf-bJmnYkmS3WKgjUi6RHJKu6NX2x/s1600-h/095+-+15+-+Still+More+Falls+w+Window.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199689824906514018" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjosC1PY8s_LGXBZ3nVQhEi3_Z9inrsPiUjwObPJGfviQPhs4MJ7PcmzRAPvSqzzAKcJBoCxDgIULzN9hWIOrn0ddT42L5krmsyfuuK5i3QYBVUO03hf-bJmnYkmS3WKgjUi6RHJKu6NX2x/s400/095+-+15+-+Still+More+Falls+w+Window.jpg" border="0" /></a>Window on the falls.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnv-NQ646fd5sEgx26E4qTb4IwZcYweI7Zu_LSgv-wlpurncaGLZub0qGiO8ZzMzi1lu00c3jZdO3FHMuaoMjMVYzco4gzQjjI9hlbuI5LTdfZ6Aog3FG_arod4mYqpFBNSexuclWSOhNY/s1600-h/095+-+16+-+Still+More+Perspective.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199689829201481330" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnv-NQ646fd5sEgx26E4qTb4IwZcYweI7Zu_LSgv-wlpurncaGLZub0qGiO8ZzMzi1lu00c3jZdO3FHMuaoMjMVYzco4gzQjjI9hlbuI5LTdfZ6Aog3FG_arod4mYqpFBNSexuclWSOhNY/s400/095+-+16+-+Still+More+Perspective.jpg" border="0" /></a> Some perspective.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggLVa9pdGqEeLl4QBAY9DZ3mc1sgsMEbgMObBwfYRfw7SuuUippcpbtekyvazq1pOZ2Ry9jCQPhqkQaJDIl4j6uUKi31E-9Jc5nlf0kHSNyZmFY02eaOc2ariowFv3P8eC4CSXDTxwP-Lw/s1600-h/095+-+17+-+Another+Local+Bird.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199689833496448642" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggLVa9pdGqEeLl4QBAY9DZ3mc1sgsMEbgMObBwfYRfw7SuuUippcpbtekyvazq1pOZ2Ry9jCQPhqkQaJDIl4j6uUKi31E-9Jc5nlf0kHSNyZmFY02eaOc2ariowFv3P8eC4CSXDTxwP-Lw/s400/095+-+17+-+Another+Local+Bird.jpg" border="0" /></a> Local bird variety.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVDf6wWdlhAdBXPeiDPoVHlZp5SrE136wFOOtNPCen_wKxnavXbV441mo5S2bZhOthx5hIeuz6LswAitP0F0_2OfWf3337L2mEm2VrPXYCRQJgjlKCehyphenhyphenOUywZOVwrk5Fbl8LdkgRuqnao/s1600-h/095+-+18+-+And+so+it+begins.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199689833496448658" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVDf6wWdlhAdBXPeiDPoVHlZp5SrE136wFOOtNPCen_wKxnavXbV441mo5S2bZhOthx5hIeuz6LswAitP0F0_2OfWf3337L2mEm2VrPXYCRQJgjlKCehyphenhyphenOUywZOVwrk5Fbl8LdkgRuqnao/s400/095+-+18+-+And+so+it+begins.jpg" border="0" /></a> No clue as to what´s ahead.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGld2JWsKI60UVPbP278UOt4BSUtwIu004KpihtgX9yzETL8cVQ956VBeXGNsm8ahapoEfydQXRHL9u12FM3VcC0CTiHcjUbwhuKQuCITEf4mfvdDIzPEsimfq-eMQjGDx6CcoSv5fOA1/s1600-h/095+-+19+-+Train+Ride.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199689833496448674" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGld2JWsKI60UVPbP278UOt4BSUtwIu004KpihtgX9yzETL8cVQ956VBeXGNsm8ahapoEfydQXRHL9u12FM3VcC0CTiHcjUbwhuKQuCITEf4mfvdDIzPEsimfq-eMQjGDx6CcoSv5fOA1/s400/095+-+19+-+Train+Ride.jpg" border="0" /></a> Train ride to Garganta del Diabolo<br /></div><div>OK, here´s the final text, too...</div><div>Week 14 - Iguazu Finally and Bus Adventures<br /></div><div>Saturday (92) we take no chances - get the bikes to the station first thing and then have the day to spend without worrying. We take the train to Tigre - an amazingly weathly little resort city about an hour north of BA at the delta of the Parana and Uruguay rivers. Lots of little canals, a casino, amusement park, artisan market, a good place to spend a day.<br /></div><div>Well, and then we're back in town, back at the hostel, and this time we won't screw up. Make it to the station with time to spare and now I'm up to date - today is Sunday (93) as I write this from the bus where after riding through the night and a rainy morning and early afternoon, we've finally entered a new region of Argentina - near tropical rain forest and one of the natural wonders of the world. We're going to spend a couple days here before heading off back to the dry interior and continuing the ride. Well, we're just rolling into town and the bus station as I write these words. When travelling here, go in style - the cama buses are amazingly comfortable, although the DVD selections leave a bit to be desired perhaps. Well, we're at the terminal so it's time to go until the next blog entry. It's been an amazing few weeks.<br /></div><div>Day 93 - Just Arrived</div><div>Well, not too much to report on today. Get into town, look for place to stay, settle on local Hostelling Intl. affiliate, head into town for a rainy lunch, and just chill for the day. I have been nursing a cold so all this was just fine with me. Meet up with folks from the UK, Holland, and Hong Kong and have a common dinner. Hostelling is fun.<br /></div><div>Get a few tips from the hostel owner regarding heading to Ciudad de Este - the "Eastern" City of Paraguay. He's quite a colorful character - in one sentence he's explaining to Dave how, if checked, he definitely shouldn't use his Irish passport for Paraguay - they aren't too fond of them - something about the IRA (but Dave needs to be Irish to enter Brazil, if checked, which you need to cross to get to C d Este). The next moment he's saying we should definitely go - it's worth seeing, except for the occasional tourist who ends up in jail due to the lack of proper visa and needs to bribe the local police to get out - but it'll be a Monday, the slow day so almost no checking, just be sure to get out by early afternoon - possible traffic jams/delays later in the day can spell more opportunity for problems...<br /></div><div>I should back up a moment.<br /></div><div>We're in Puerto Iguazu - a 3 country point of Paraguay, Argentina, and Brazil. Of these, Argentina is the friendliest place to be. We were warned multiple times not to try to get to Paraguay on foot - you'll probably get accosted either in one of the slum-areas in Brazil or at the bridge crossing from Brazil to Paraguay. (Interesting note - in a few weeks we'll meet some 60-ish Germans who cycled from Buenos Aires to Iguazu via Uruguay, Brazil, then continued to Ciudad de Este through Paraguay and back into Argentina - they were quite scared of their brief foray into the city - just keep moving until you're through was their advice - the rest of Paraguay is fine).<br /></div><div>Anyway, Ciudad de Este is a bizarre cross of Mall of America and Mad Max. Everything is available at really cheap prices - and while everything is on sale, a lot of stuff actually is legit. I won't ponder the vagaries of free trade zones or customs regulations, but Dave does actually manage to by a real Panasonic camera for probably a little cheaper than even the Stateside price - about 1/2 the price of Argentina. So of course there's a lot of motive for Argentines to buy everything here - and somehow sneak it back to Argentina.<br /></div><div>Meanwhile, it seems like poverty, lack of police presence, whatever, and lots of nice electronics, well goods of all sorts means that pretty much every store / shack has at least one well armed guard. So again - a giant market, lots of stuff for cheap, no questions asked, only accept dollars (not even Paraguayan currency), lots and lots of guns, and questionable border crossings.<br /></div><div>Sounds like fun.<br /></div><div>Well, actually, I have a cold and have no urgent electronics purchases to make, so I sit this one out. Not that much actually happens - thousands of folks and hundreds of tourists cross here every day and generally without incident - documentation or no documentation (generally only the Argentines check), but there is the occasional unlucky soul who gets picked off by Brazil (OK) or Paraguay (not so OK) border guards and doesn't have acceptable papers. And while a market full of gun-toting guards does seem like an interesting tourist destination, ahhh, seen enough markets and on the slim chance of a problem I don't feel like trying to bribe an Paraguayan border agent to get out.<br /></div><div>I like that Ciudad (city) and Cuidad (caution) are just one transposition apart.<br /></div><div>Day 94 -<br /></div><div>So while the hostel owner tries to use chicken insults to get me to go to C d Este, in the end, only Dave embarks on this adventure for a new camera. I spend the day nursing my cold in Puerto Iguazu. Walk over to the 3 country point where you can see all 3 countries, and work on the blog and backing up all our images to DVDs. Pretty easy going day for me. Dave manages to buy his camera without incident. Only challenge turns out to be getting an acceptable currency. He first has to buy Paraguayan money then find an exchange house to convert them into dollars so he can buy the camera. And after a brief, cheap meal, he's back on the bus which doesn't stop or ask questions until he returns safely to the Argentine checkpoint.<br /></div><div>My day was much less memorable. But that's ok, too. I should point out that all this is 2nd hand impressions - head over to Dave's site (<a href="http://www.andean-spine.blogspot.com/">http://www.andean-spine.blogspot.com/</a>) - as he actually went to C. d. Este.<br /></div><div>Day 95 -<br /></div><div>Well, today's our main reason for being here - finally go to the falls. A few others from the hostel visited the Brazilian side yesterday, but in general, the Argentine side is the place to be (sorta like the Canadian side of Niagara). And so today we head off to the National Park.<br />And it really is a spectacle. Complete with all sorts of souvenir vendors and a narrow guage train that takes you around the place.<br /></div><div>Dave and I have quite a few hours here, so we decide to hike to one of the minor falls first - a neat little hike, and while the falls are nothing compared to the main attraction, there's still quite a bit of wildlife along the way - several birds and also monkeys.<br /></div><div>And then we head to the real falls - theres probably well over 10km of trails plus a boat ride just to see the whole spectacle. We first head down to the docks where you catch a little ferry boat over to the island in the middle of the falls.<br /></div><div>While waiting in line, we bump into Maria who we met in Buenos Aires - she's on a package tour which includes the "fun" boat ride which takes you sorta under the falls. It is amazing to watch - these boats which disappear under the mist of the falls and return with soaked passengers - but also rather circus-like. You typically have 2-3 boats stacked up waiting to get under the falls - just a permanent amusement park in the middle of this splendor - pay your $20 to get soaked on a 10min excursion - we pass.<br /></div><div>Instead, we get the free ferry to the island where a maze of trails takes you to some amazing viewpoints. Actually catch Maria's boat just as it enters the mist.<br /></div><div>From there it's back to the mainland and around to the top of the falls and finally to the main attraction of the main attraction - Garganta del Diabolo - Devil's Throat. A little viewpoint at the end of a long boardwalk right in the heart of the falls - masses of water all around.<br />The size of this thing is just amazing. Well, I guess I'm posting plenty of pics and a few vids and while they don't do it justice, it's a start.<br /></div><div>Tomorrow it's back on the road towards finally getting back to the whole cycling part of this bicycle trip... Quite a day. We finish off with a nice home-cooked meal at the hostel, then it's more last minute DVD burning and internet work while we still have a 6:30am bus tomorrow, but more on that here...<br /></div><div>Day ... I'm outta time for the moment - will finish up on this later. At least I got a few days up.<br />And so another week goes by - we're already into week 16 and I still haven't finished 14 or started on 15. But tonight, in my rain-fly-free tent looking at the stars - when everything isn't obscured by a cloud of dust as another truck rolls by on this grave road - it seems like a good time to finally start writing again...<br /></div><div>Days 96 - 97 - a more challenging bus ride</div><div></div><div>Well, despite the best efforts of various bus companies, we still made it into Tucuman in one piece on day 97, although they did manage to get us to spend the night here, too, which we didn't originally plan for.<br /></div><div>Day 96 basically starts really early in Puerto Iguazu - with a 5:45 alarm. This is because there's a 6:30 bus to the St. Ignacio de Mini (or something like that) Jesuit Mission ruins and if we make that, we should have a few hours at the ruins before a bus which goes all the way to Tucuman.<br />5:50 is the point in time where I realize that we haven't yet paid for our stay, and also that we don't have enough money for the whole bus journey to Tucuman.<br /></div><div>So the first order of business is locating somebody to pay. And while we could try to sneak out, we later determine that that would be somewhat challenging as the front door is deadbolted - presumably for exactly that reason. Unfortunately, given the frightening state of South American electrical wiring, I wonder how often people have difficulty escaping in an emergency but that's another tangent...<br /></div><div>Unforunately, the night help doesn't seem to handle payments and/or let somebody out very often, so it takes some time to resolve these pressing issues, leaving even less time for an early morning run in a pleasant, light drizzle to the ATM followed by a run to the bus stop with a surprisingly heavy feeling backpack.<br /></div><div>Of course, at 6:30am, you can't buy a bus ticket to Tucuman, so that adventure has to be put off. But we do make the bus and are soon returning down the same roads travelled on a few days ago.<br /></div><div>The ruins are quite pleasant - but unless you're a real buff, they're not all that special except for the walls of church itself which still have quite a few intricate carvings visible.<br />In the 1600s, quite a few Jesuit priests came this way to convert the local heathen populations into civilized folk, and much to their credit, they really did seem to care for their work and the indigenous tribes with whom they lived. In the end, quite a few missions - small communities - were built throughout what is now northeast Argentina and neighboring parts of Paraguay, and Brazil.<br /></div><div>Unforuntately, they seem to have cared too much as other groups from Spain and Portugal thought the natives would make much better slaves than civilized folk and decided to raid the missions. I believe in some instances the Jesuits took up arms along with the native populations until eventually the Spaniards intervened, kicked them out and destroyed the missions - hence the ruins which are left today.<br /></div><div>So Dave and I went on a tour - unforunately sans guide, although still fairly impressive. There's also a small museum at the entrance with a few artefacts from the period.<br />And soon it was time for that bus, except we now needed to catch another local for the next town where we could buy a long distance ticket. Posted schedules or labeled bus stops are somewhat rare here, but the locals told us where to plant ourselves and within a couple minutes, a bus came to take us to Posadas, the next leg.<br /></div><div>Here there are bus companies - quite a few in fact, and we quickly determine there's a 15:45 for Tucuman at ARG$107 or a 16:00 for $120, seems easy enough, plus the pricier one (Flecha Bus) was recommened against by other travellers in terms of bus cleanliness, so we'll try our luck with the discount operator - the one we had from BA to Puerto Igauzu was quite good.<br /></div><div>Buy our ticket and wait. There are no real timetables or monitors, so it's a bit chaotic, just some frequent announcements in Spanish. 15:45 comes around and no bus. We ask again - just wait, it's coming. 15:55 and no bus, another round of questions and more reassurances. 16:10 or so, the other bus for Tucuman is now leaving before our eyes, but we still have faith.<br /></div><div>Finally, around 16:25, with the last bus to Salta (a somewhat similar route) about to leave, our ticket agent rushes up to us to inform us the bus has been cancelled, we can get our money back and still hop on the bus for Salta, get a ticket for a nearby city with better connections, and apparently hope for the best.<br /></div><div>Of course, I have to hand it to him, waiting for the last possible moment in time to spring the news on us really minimizes our ability to think clearly or complain and any future problems we may encounter will be conveniently far away. So we collect our money and buy another ticket and hop on the other bus and we're off. Salta is popular so this bus is packed - and our friends were right - FlechaBus isn't the cleanest line nor is the food good, but at least they're running. We make it to Resistencia around 23:00 and it's pretty obvious that figuring out a connection to Tucuman at this hour will be challenging to say the least. But there are other options - the bus is still heading in basically the right direction and we can get off somewhere tomorrow morning and catch a local bus for Tucuman.<br /></div><div>So another dash around the bus station to buy another ticket for the bus we're already on, only our seats aren't available, but there are still 2 free ones. And morning comes and we get to yet another town and bus terminal and get to shop for tickets. At least here there aren't many choices and the buses run every half hour or so. So we went from a nice single ride at 107 to 3 separate tickets, a lot of urgent purchases and a final fare of 156 in all, but at least it only took an extra 3 hours or so. Well, bargain hunting often carries risks.<br /></div><div>We gladly devour a fast food lunch upon arrival in Tucuman and go to pick up our bikes except the local freight agent has a siesta from 12:30 to 16:30, and it's now 12:45. So it's time to see what Tucuman has to offer, plus some grocery shopping, and finally the moment of truth - and we're in luck, the bikes are here, and the boxes, well, the bikes are here and after assembly they're in one piece. And now it's getting dark and we quickly come to the conclusion that cycling out of Tucuman in the dark is not a good idea. The Tourist Info office is still open so we soon have a room at the local HI-Hostal - quite a nice little place actually if you ever come this way. Tomorrow cycling can begin again in earnest.<br /></div><div>Day 98 - first day in the saddle after over 2 weeksTucuman isn't a bad city. It's also quite a large city and just getting out of town takes awhile. We are able to shop for supplies and I even find a new rim - a small insurance policy I have been considering for some time now - especially since Dave's rim cracked and I'm not entirely sure how old mine are. While rims rarely fail suddenly, trying to get a replacement once wear signs are obvious would be challenging in Bolivia. I had looked in several shops in Buenos Aires to no avail - the only rims they have are either mountain bike or road bike, nothing in my size, but after a half dozen shops in Tucuman, I finally strike paydirt. So now I have another few hundred grams of useless and awkward to carry stuff - unless I break down and it becomes incredibly useful.<br /></div><div>The rest of the day was fairly easy going. We cover a decent amount of ground - heading in basically the wrong direction. After speaking with Jan-Willem and Gudrun in Buenos Aires, they mention this nice circuit from Tucuman to Salta which involves some less travelled routes and nice passes. Since we will be spending a lot of time on the high altitude altiplano, getting some quality climbs and nights between 2-3000m is probably a smart move. The route heads about 40km S of Tucuman before turning W and NW again. We make the first turn heading W along a nice river valley and start to get into the climb when this really nice road to the river, complete with hidden campsite and a nice view of the mountains beckons, so that's where we cook and Dave finally gets to build his first campfire in several weeks, although all the wood is soaked so it's pretty slow going. </div><div></div><div>Next week we can finally start to ride in earnest.<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxdNWqeWOkaqzf5y_m0KkvjdhLUADm0hLOrhlaarpvAcKN9Jk4gR40bkR8z9K1-8xR6KRdVi9KAeySnCtjNqQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>At least one video of the falls...</div></div></div></div></div></div><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyU4WH3gHG4fbzDe1y94BIUCF3u2qXgSD_gCLz4f4-9U8DKzn88W5kELCSubQOA6g9uVmXXXnSgf8u9x11juw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-75845163250421745212008-05-26T19:29:00.000-07:002008-05-26T19:58:56.777-07:00Week 15 - Finally in the saddle again - Tucuman to Salta<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfOk8YwQT1ibUaGUQ_3ju8CRS-Zg2mVeX7rpLGeXoaAsAo_C9yvKmZjaLe3NTWaJWk4gkGEs70MuHkhwMKgH0QYE7KHZPQxtul9S6zgqeY4HD2I-YLA0LETaDKYRzemHX-VcVoIyeBwk2O/s1600-h/099+-+1+-+Memorial+of+a+Proud+Subjugated+Folk.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204885660235719506" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfOk8YwQT1ibUaGUQ_3ju8CRS-Zg2mVeX7rpLGeXoaAsAo_C9yvKmZjaLe3NTWaJWk4gkGEs70MuHkhwMKgH0QYE7KHZPQxtul9S6zgqeY4HD2I-YLA0LETaDKYRzemHX-VcVoIyeBwk2O/s400/099+-+1+-+Memorial+of+a+Proud+Subjugated+Folk.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />OK, this is my attempt at week 16 - editing this stuff keeps getting weirder and weirder. The first few shots are climbing up from Tucuman to Tafi del Valle<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbj_IYbKqEONEmGq1eptg4pZycNa7bZxbDNsKELmkhf2PyPX6yll_JA3qyBXw2_E7ry1JQ5pE3LfqnVHaJu70OobaazbViYjgfgR4uPr2n57nFLDwTOSFYi3hTiJknS3zBAISB3j6hbsR8/s1600-h/099+-+2+-+Climbing+Up.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204885673120621410" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbj_IYbKqEONEmGq1eptg4pZycNa7bZxbDNsKELmkhf2PyPX6yll_JA3qyBXw2_E7ry1JQ5pE3LfqnVHaJu70OobaazbViYjgfgR4uPr2n57nFLDwTOSFYi3hTiJknS3zBAISB3j6hbsR8/s400/099+-+2+-+Climbing+Up.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJ99nsBAm8RtkWtwI4EhzeQ6H_C5y4tb4HQ594K7YAIU7We_YFh8gW6k94IYslsXPkVVKWt17slQ2Sm59kifCHn3RM5KUnmQK4JfD-AcTuID6GEPNbdOKWBrZrR_sEegxv9GAZAriLrJn/s1600-h/099+-+3+-+And+Up.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204885681710556018" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJ99nsBAm8RtkWtwI4EhzeQ6H_C5y4tb4HQ594K7YAIU7We_YFh8gW6k94IYslsXPkVVKWt17slQ2Sm59kifCHn3RM5KUnmQK4JfD-AcTuID6GEPNbdOKWBrZrR_sEegxv9GAZAriLrJn/s400/099+-+3+-+And+Up.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiANcU8VmJqq022W8y2xcBIbvmuTDVgKHvXCIuN63KoyzE-thTy25vqtNW6qDn3eGctxpRouSavHOUtx8lBjHaDqhCvkAIA6ag3ajd1ZZowxSWbcjAx0wwI5HL6BzuB7DDuV-SFVZJKJ1xn/s1600-h/099+-+4+-+Not+Again.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204885690300490626" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiANcU8VmJqq022W8y2xcBIbvmuTDVgKHvXCIuN63KoyzE-thTy25vqtNW6qDn3eGctxpRouSavHOUtx8lBjHaDqhCvkAIA6ag3ajd1ZZowxSWbcjAx0wwI5HL6BzuB7DDuV-SFVZJKJ1xn/s400/099+-+4+-+Not+Again.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>fin del mundo again<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-W-ePSsCc2wVyoRCv6T-QAWK6UAEexYCdcD2eqcA5thVg8RYunLXtgvtYRtKR-hrBlaBTBPA5E6kPzpYwe9E0NTaLQKle-S_Pmgv1v06NsKzEgWFTXUwr9XFT_bfcmpKQdrek8RvvxRd/s1600-h/099+-+5+-+And+Up+Into+the+Clouds.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204885312343368450" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-W-ePSsCc2wVyoRCv6T-QAWK6UAEexYCdcD2eqcA5thVg8RYunLXtgvtYRtKR-hrBlaBTBPA5E6kPzpYwe9E0NTaLQKle-S_Pmgv1v06NsKzEgWFTXUwr9XFT_bfcmpKQdrek8RvvxRd/s400/099+-+5+-+And+Up+Into+the+Clouds.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUp6Vva86nd_Za9RSQaFOVsTAKpxq58PIT6SKQLKv6zY4ynOiVnubcdMQe5ylkXpvu0gNMEcptpV5fuqET1t4JIQ77ypDbX95hBzGFXBqtrbMXRt7gvV7WfYH7845miJudfCw77SoQ27lt/s1600-h/099+-+6+-+Dique+La+Angostura+and+Tafi+del+Valle.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204885312343368466" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUp6Vva86nd_Za9RSQaFOVsTAKpxq58PIT6SKQLKv6zY4ynOiVnubcdMQe5ylkXpvu0gNMEcptpV5fuqET1t4JIQ77ypDbX95hBzGFXBqtrbMXRt7gvV7WfYH7845miJudfCw77SoQ27lt/s400/099+-+6+-+Dique+La+Angostura+and+Tafi+del+Valle.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikbcoUEF5lny77QaGBQiD8l5HaLIf_D6-cmQu4I8H6ReLCXxLcI6B1Pa_CzF5neRr7iPlVO0wZwvxQWBwf-YpX-8cpoaYOT5-XSd-M35sjSSTwXr-az6TVJGaaQPkA-s2-KmdXJs5R1YIg/s1600-h/100+-+1+-+Dique+La+Angostura+Tafi+del+Valle+and+clouds+from+near+pass.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204885320933303074" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikbcoUEF5lny77QaGBQiD8l5HaLIf_D6-cmQu4I8H6ReLCXxLcI6B1Pa_CzF5neRr7iPlVO0wZwvxQWBwf-YpX-8cpoaYOT5-XSd-M35sjSSTwXr-az6TVJGaaQPkA-s2-KmdXJs5R1YIg/s400/100+-+1+-+Dique+La+Angostura+Tafi+del+Valle+and+clouds+from+near+pass.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP9a1fk-NUYklX4Dz9a9kGE7tDbKqLNbBAqhi3yJIedHG_l1wSND9IfgknaVMafcVkKgnoksW9bcKZDk_qpvXu7D-x6Psl3H2X7hPneHDGCNPk0qztQ-BkIGWrGB2mlnGqOVijvGN6CUlF/s1600-h/100+-+2+-+more+clouds+from+near+pass.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204885320933303090" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP9a1fk-NUYklX4Dz9a9kGE7tDbKqLNbBAqhi3yJIedHG_l1wSND9IfgknaVMafcVkKgnoksW9bcKZDk_qpvXu7D-x6Psl3H2X7hPneHDGCNPk0qztQ-BkIGWrGB2mlnGqOVijvGN6CUlF/s400/100+-+2+-+more+clouds+from+near+pass.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk5tAUF7D8uaHIGWTJYdvvGvrkpxWlQZxNgPTte8ObhjUwQ9zyO62Mo_whXlDn_HuTlwKy8rbhZKf9ZkdY5FX89eOTt5L-8NGRYMl2c-f7hXHB4mv6aTDB44phLsUF-y54DZdzZOxjOzM_/s1600-h/100+-+3+-+well+deserved+rest+and+sandwich+at+summit.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204885325228270402" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk5tAUF7D8uaHIGWTJYdvvGvrkpxWlQZxNgPTte8ObhjUwQ9zyO62Mo_whXlDn_HuTlwKy8rbhZKf9ZkdY5FX89eOTt5L-8NGRYMl2c-f7hXHB4mv6aTDB44phLsUF-y54DZdzZOxjOzM_/s400/100+-+3+-+well+deserved+rest+and+sandwich+at+summit.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>climbing up to the first real pass - a well deserved rest and sandwich<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiYqMehTvLMyHH88_tHvWfDBJLrBsU_g6btCGW48x2Zju-UkLflvdkaidwD6HJ4qGW9sdwR_0vFgP1zOYRKH_EjwnD1q9xeBP6-O-QumvKVl6HlE4w27FeS1zREH7jUTeEYpxF6qWlYxtc/s1600-h/100+-+4+-+Cows+down+the+other+side.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884861371802290" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiYqMehTvLMyHH88_tHvWfDBJLrBsU_g6btCGW48x2Zju-UkLflvdkaidwD6HJ4qGW9sdwR_0vFgP1zOYRKH_EjwnD1q9xeBP6-O-QumvKVl6HlE4w27FeS1zREH7jUTeEYpxF6qWlYxtc/s400/100+-+4+-+Cows+down+the+other+side.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA2p7qL9jbtBr0kclMIjq6KLBpv2ZARCrsCV0epMJM8sehRdfYVesga614lLqf40VqxnhPZUR15ZgG81ABWLX4wcbZc7jewWyE4kXS9AHzh5my-tgC9qqF91hFMAVdwdqVsw15VRQj9G4T/s1600-h/100+-+5+-+Cactii+and+Aspen.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884861371802306" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA2p7qL9jbtBr0kclMIjq6KLBpv2ZARCrsCV0epMJM8sehRdfYVesga614lLqf40VqxnhPZUR15ZgG81ABWLX4wcbZc7jewWyE4kXS9AHzh5my-tgC9qqF91hFMAVdwdqVsw15VRQj9G4T/s400/100+-+5+-+Cactii+and+Aspen.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCJk54HxpZ7mL8P26agx9Qfzg5KoS6Jq6P3RKgh-GlEg7tfUaMprlUm1ctvjFGGzIwuGsH5EbQUxiApxdtsmEMnWicz6YtIdlclkTt1V3dcEDNI_qfe8QGqe2cPf2QS2AskuRcrcPvQz_X/s1600-h/100+-+6+-+Enjoying+the+View.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884865666769618" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCJk54HxpZ7mL8P26agx9Qfzg5KoS6Jq6P3RKgh-GlEg7tfUaMprlUm1ctvjFGGzIwuGsH5EbQUxiApxdtsmEMnWicz6YtIdlclkTt1V3dcEDNI_qfe8QGqe2cPf2QS2AskuRcrcPvQz_X/s400/100+-+6+-+Enjoying+the+View.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj90ci9DGTi4xQAo2Y-lGa_DPIOc9sQ2P2_N_9i8rW3sF55e1Os4bR83GA8wPbP_o6pYO85U9mowVB1_-eMdjwAbkjKOqn0CxvVB7w0m8gSkAt2sqFZTM3x4qY6vdMOWxwc_crx20SmD-T/s1600-h/100+-+7+-+The+Observatory.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884865666769634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj90ci9DGTi4xQAo2Y-lGa_DPIOc9sQ2P2_N_9i8rW3sF55e1Os4bR83GA8wPbP_o6pYO85U9mowVB1_-eMdjwAbkjKOqn0CxvVB7w0m8gSkAt2sqFZTM3x4qY6vdMOWxwc_crx20SmD-T/s400/100+-+7+-+The+Observatory.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />the observatory Ampimpa<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgnsE_SKvBHFIgUQkX_17BAEeDesX4WkEJVbHDgZYnqPTK_vvJIVhRJ3QmUOUMSfO_IrGMB-b0to93jLQkcOnVbh_h6OOzu2VQbeN3C7w4mm_yMNAxWRidHTgbQdXYeZYVlz508-f6zMO/s1600-h/100+-+8+-+The+Scope.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884869961736946" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgnsE_SKvBHFIgUQkX_17BAEeDesX4WkEJVbHDgZYnqPTK_vvJIVhRJ3QmUOUMSfO_IrGMB-b0to93jLQkcOnVbh_h6OOzu2VQbeN3C7w4mm_yMNAxWRidHTgbQdXYeZYVlz508-f6zMO/s400/100+-+8+-+The+Scope.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPqGiyrSHjPL39W6xmEGdTDgL1mt_MHGMEWnJjwuLPJdWm5Xk0dpksL7MWI2jCSx_qxoHfa1rCvloPqGYLuYhIBS3c11PWruekmLw91i9lxY7BsZs3vrYvAA7OdNYxWxWlCv1isz_dUDs/s1600-h/100+-+9+-+Setting+Up.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884397515334242" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPqGiyrSHjPL39W6xmEGdTDgL1mt_MHGMEWnJjwuLPJdWm5Xk0dpksL7MWI2jCSx_qxoHfa1rCvloPqGYLuYhIBS3c11PWruekmLw91i9lxY7BsZs3vrYvAA7OdNYxWxWlCv1isz_dUDs/s400/100+-+9+-+Setting+Up.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Getting the scope ready plus a shot of the lunar surface - a bit awkward with my camera<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqyv0A1YSIIwlFfIkjLYU95Lx5xYt24Fcbt7yYOWR0se-1PR3FdBfKw0Fd9lVMdRvh80Yw1ga_plxyJfhmBD_7cY9i6kcM0yOmKBDHBbG8UK-gqcgE5Sx44_cG7OpAX9GK9Jey9G8H96W/s1600-h/100+-+ten+-+Lunar+Closeup.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884397515334258" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqyv0A1YSIIwlFfIkjLYU95Lx5xYt24Fcbt7yYOWR0se-1PR3FdBfKw0Fd9lVMdRvh80Yw1ga_plxyJfhmBD_7cY9i6kcM0yOmKBDHBbG8UK-gqcgE5Sx44_cG7OpAX9GK9Jey9G8H96W/s400/100+-+ten+-+Lunar+Closeup.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5rABtBWr1kQgPUvKiwOnkaHL6cO2jyLcYwnXkCxQG3OqBEeTPUnFa3vH2WYLrN6BVCyLe5IR49GhhzfAxREtPHznVcT1kL7sa1dZ85dBQ4zqFWl7wPDx4SABp_5Ex3fxkKKWeYmQDlCDf/s1600-h/101+-+1+-+Goodbye+at+Ampimpa.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884406105268866" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5rABtBWr1kQgPUvKiwOnkaHL6cO2jyLcYwnXkCxQG3OqBEeTPUnFa3vH2WYLrN6BVCyLe5IR49GhhzfAxREtPHznVcT1kL7sa1dZ85dBQ4zqFWl7wPDx4SABp_5Ex3fxkKKWeYmQDlCDf/s400/101+-+1+-+Goodbye+at+Ampimpa.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Saying goodbye at Ampimpa<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidzWgmcVqm23M_j_kvurDmN7BflXTJHb-HluVRQI2GBvhMsktg3-SRJiqNq49EfIAxDUHPBUVwu-mkM3SPQcDJl44jtQDP-iviA18Em5Fc-8PIc9L4buS2vAsxG9agqmCd3yDRwK4z50gw/s1600-h/101+-+2+-+Neat+Museum+at+Aipacha.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884410400236178" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidzWgmcVqm23M_j_kvurDmN7BflXTJHb-HluVRQI2GBvhMsktg3-SRJiqNq49EfIAxDUHPBUVwu-mkM3SPQcDJl44jtQDP-iviA18Em5Fc-8PIc9L4buS2vAsxG9agqmCd3yDRwK4z50gw/s400/101+-+2+-+Neat+Museum+at+Aipacha.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisG3fs_8qJvo_3qOfXIeWh2uodvX-znP982gBTtKFZIA3w69PKAPMrvGLJHtzkOcfelckU6q7K1tf2JhC_pquxV80wuBgrYJg8WcY9FJGJlwlWxVqAgvjG1D-AqpJlP9wF2HgwxgK1POPE/s1600-h/101+-+3+-+Neat+Museum+at+Aipacha+2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884410400236194" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisG3fs_8qJvo_3qOfXIeWh2uodvX-znP982gBTtKFZIA3w69PKAPMrvGLJHtzkOcfelckU6q7K1tf2JhC_pquxV80wuBgrYJg8WcY9FJGJlwlWxVqAgvjG1D-AqpJlP9wF2HgwxgK1POPE/s400/101+-+3+-+Neat+Museum+at+Aipacha+2.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Some really neat sculptures at the musuem at Aipacha. We didn´t get to go in<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7kwmCtzW5dKZDwtE4enTxizszh8ypu9s-x-OdfGdYXx0og6LYtXG7x8cefYbTjbW6OFL_5Iy-3mHcpGuDdMot2FndYCYPhnH3UMBJy8gBsaPYNFYBDzSchfgvpU_CY5Etfu7hG06WDPs/s1600-h/101+-+4+-+Quilmes+from+below.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204883989493441042" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7kwmCtzW5dKZDwtE4enTxizszh8ypu9s-x-OdfGdYXx0og6LYtXG7x8cefYbTjbW6OFL_5Iy-3mHcpGuDdMot2FndYCYPhnH3UMBJy8gBsaPYNFYBDzSchfgvpU_CY5Etfu7hG06WDPs/s400/101+-+4+-+Quilmes+from+below.jpg" border="0" /></a> unfortunately.<br />Quilmes<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1qP3vi7Gf4vxtG7QM-jrZFLZQG2LX8t21gV93gNFwppJXX-gzHFkTWHMB_gz1xx7JhK1_dKzaTyoBgg5Zn-wRoVlL7jVoM4O82yvzmz5GciW9L3UYfK6A6tKM8t3kaMsG3mazRQD5yKfj/s1600-h/101+-+5+-+Quilmes+2+from+above.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204883993788408354" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1qP3vi7Gf4vxtG7QM-jrZFLZQG2LX8t21gV93gNFwppJXX-gzHFkTWHMB_gz1xx7JhK1_dKzaTyoBgg5Zn-wRoVlL7jVoM4O82yvzmz5GciW9L3UYfK6A6tKM8t3kaMsG3mazRQD5yKfj/s400/101+-+5+-+Quilmes+2+from+above.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhch23OfjRcxzISfWKxMuWieTIB6JOjXjQVt0KLOuqYsHcCpk5Gux3cAYSyEgOKg7rP0_6OXomf9mVqn1ar31jeug2f2eLrlJZ7i1kBQF3FXTF11piz2DJQFutAfBEC4eF2ltunoJzjm-sg/s1600-h/101+-+6+-+Quilmes+3.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204883998083375666" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhch23OfjRcxzISfWKxMuWieTIB6JOjXjQVt0KLOuqYsHcCpk5Gux3cAYSyEgOKg7rP0_6OXomf9mVqn1ar31jeug2f2eLrlJZ7i1kBQF3FXTF11piz2DJQFutAfBEC4eF2ltunoJzjm-sg/s400/101+-+6+-+Quilmes+3.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQxllLgippfoiT4Vc7D_H-l3lv5j9k4D4jxjBxfeuwezVYpOH_9W2udNkPRVTn9ChzebcI6CgwaPP1PcCNYqURJH3fq5C2IlTI7oHFYRpzqXRBknfrwzb78DjDnctyFUUBp6Fc6F1zvNXd/s1600-h/101+-+7+-+Another+100km+marker+on+Ruta+40.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884002378342978" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQxllLgippfoiT4Vc7D_H-l3lv5j9k4D4jxjBxfeuwezVYpOH_9W2udNkPRVTn9ChzebcI6CgwaPP1PcCNYqURJH3fq5C2IlTI7oHFYRpzqXRBknfrwzb78DjDnctyFUUBp6Fc6F1zvNXd/s400/101+-+7+-+Another+100km+marker+on+Ruta+40.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Ruta 40 - again - 4300km from Tierra del Fuego<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirBGM854iILmCub-mTvFSVe-BfFT0B2gBwU_OikVX4PU6RSfCSz7q7SpwaX1pjkh1mHcEsyCrJsbkZ9HO7bMt0yfYZAhk7J_Gnt9E_l1sf3cBf39wF0anPU8vu5O0IuJw_lQKU4WiMuv63/s1600-h/101+-+8+-+Vineyards+near+Cafayate.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204884006673310290" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirBGM854iILmCub-mTvFSVe-BfFT0B2gBwU_OikVX4PU6RSfCSz7q7SpwaX1pjkh1mHcEsyCrJsbkZ9HO7bMt0yfYZAhk7J_Gnt9E_l1sf3cBf39wF0anPU8vu5O0IuJw_lQKU4WiMuv63/s400/101+-+8+-+Vineyards+near+Cafayate.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnKFViq573AIZgwShhvmnJkEtmGzlRy4JviIKwaGXfAWKdadk_BIvI6sRDfjDRAKNqb1-xBnIqBW1Z8ZQzTcsDv7xXltG-KMViBor8Vhbt_KcMA6Hn5zPNCwu_tk2P2ckUnqySmN_aYs5R/s1600-h/101+-+9+-+Rolling+Hotel.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204882383175672178" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnKFViq573AIZgwShhvmnJkEtmGzlRy4JviIKwaGXfAWKdadk_BIvI6sRDfjDRAKNqb1-xBnIqBW1Z8ZQzTcsDv7xXltG-KMViBor8Vhbt_KcMA6Hn5zPNCwu_tk2P2ckUnqySmN_aYs5R/s400/101+-+9+-+Rolling+Hotel.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Das Rollende Hotel in Cafayate<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Ze6d8ylJGPRqAemq-JtPJqKp-IHtg6-9lh2brH-OnU0-fVSrSRFEDIWvjRYqfPPlXtQZxoStPIO3M3pD7sXWcmDFhsn0ATcUTVx_ZQiDaFRxO-ZhhDusJVikPCY09tndecn9TD-abfsB/s1600-h/102+-+1+-+Red+Rock.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204882391765606802" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Ze6d8ylJGPRqAemq-JtPJqKp-IHtg6-9lh2brH-OnU0-fVSrSRFEDIWvjRYqfPPlXtQZxoStPIO3M3pD7sXWcmDFhsn0ATcUTVx_ZQiDaFRxO-ZhhDusJVikPCY09tndecn9TD-abfsB/s400/102+-+1+-+Red+Rock.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Amazing canyon scenery - maybe it was Utah<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FA3OY2gmFZVrQjCrTaulsMIB4v6hnJvlRgG9-nL-ewNKCjBxGm_L6ufGaaFrLCCBEZpKAuk2UbjdSpUkTQLlonbDl6tgOK3FiyOaIH9nJDBlko7GKR0jK0e9m60P8BA91vjs__dK0Ss/s1600-h/102+-+2+-+Red+Rock2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204882396060574130" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FA3OY2gmFZVrQjCrTaulsMIB4v6hnJvlRgG9-nL-ewNKCjBxGm_L6ufGaaFrLCCBEZpKAuk2UbjdSpUkTQLlonbDl6tgOK3FiyOaIH9nJDBlko7GKR0jK0e9m60P8BA91vjs__dK0Ss/s400/102+-+2+-+Red+Rock2.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWrRB8UUlqv-8XA5W94yI_J0kFWjUP0BV5RoRFHi_a4rLGeHzzcI-dpa_oT13_NptRsz62PSev0cuMFYTvKAATzkzKpZVf9__vn2X_ugkde7Kzl8Cq0RSOnP_IZG12Ob_TuUM7ttCiuk/s1600-h/102+-+3+-+Funky+really+green+tree.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204882396060574162" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWrRB8UUlqv-8XA5W94yI_J0kFWjUP0BV5RoRFHi_a4rLGeHzzcI-dpa_oT13_NptRsz62PSev0cuMFYTvKAATzkzKpZVf9__vn2X_ugkde7Kzl8Cq0RSOnP_IZG12Ob_TuUM7ttCiuk/s400/102+-+3+-+Funky+really+green+tree.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4OWdV_X8vW4pTK275jMUtTitJ3VXNQ4rbNk0qPjpzX3_b_PDFWiHRZZiFumaMNWFCfJnduO0F434OUp3tmq2LSCFtcOIXzB6cNUAjMUR5AYh_FcAoY4ObBlb3zyUo1oeod4TUtyD2FR_u/s1600-h/102+-+4+-+Maybe+it+was+Utah.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204882400355541490" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4OWdV_X8vW4pTK275jMUtTitJ3VXNQ4rbNk0qPjpzX3_b_PDFWiHRZZiFumaMNWFCfJnduO0F434OUp3tmq2LSCFtcOIXzB6cNUAjMUR5AYh_FcAoY4ObBlb3zyUo1oeod4TUtyD2FR_u/s400/102+-+4+-+Maybe+it+was+Utah.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGporOmTZhqLisGybr0GseqPRu3vuWn9htb_c_2G-CAdlehNDOf9YhnOKbvhbuRj8gK-qTGnaTu54rukD9nki-tCEcC3iCJqZ_NTsfZ2CMkgMy2BBjEUBTE__EkPoEeRvoqFUjlUVIfuav/s1600-h/102+-+5+-+Mud+Wall.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204881850599727394" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGporOmTZhqLisGybr0GseqPRu3vuWn9htb_c_2G-CAdlehNDOf9YhnOKbvhbuRj8gK-qTGnaTu54rukD9nki-tCEcC3iCJqZ_NTsfZ2CMkgMy2BBjEUBTE__EkPoEeRvoqFUjlUVIfuav/s400/102+-+5+-+Mud+Wall.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOAfftwnNpwMGU4qsgQGwvJqXbnmFtdzN2pTw6OP2_xmtaaRMegxLajoSHxE_TEIdHjr8YyQDypBu47pRh81H3H4-5_KkTm1COUTL4LFaGhSFw44wO37nTZblSgLht1EerqY4iNREHI2Mz/s1600-h/102+-+6+-+Desert+Scene.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204881854894694706" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOAfftwnNpwMGU4qsgQGwvJqXbnmFtdzN2pTw6OP2_xmtaaRMegxLajoSHxE_TEIdHjr8YyQDypBu47pRh81H3H4-5_KkTm1COUTL4LFaGhSFw44wO37nTZblSgLht1EerqY4iNREHI2Mz/s400/102+-+6+-+Desert+Scene.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcR1T6_hfuGd0Q4DTmtzUOz0r_B-poRE40i455I3SloT6jTJGcLlNrhTnkSe0Ifvm9omJNly92KMJMq_0v1AJ4ftu98D5pg4uuW0GYRInsIjmZh1SvWwZBrPxxahj_fLCG1WXapJRVHTjQ/s1600-h/102+-+7+-+Desert+Scene2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204881859189662018" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcR1T6_hfuGd0Q4DTmtzUOz0r_B-poRE40i455I3SloT6jTJGcLlNrhTnkSe0Ifvm9omJNly92KMJMq_0v1AJ4ftu98D5pg4uuW0GYRInsIjmZh1SvWwZBrPxxahj_fLCG1WXapJRVHTjQ/s400/102+-+7+-+Desert+Scene2.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMFPDLVOcIiHVqWclC8S5DRDZgVr3j9dvISbgtdiUCn6VyhqLnbHW3Lzw1ai5Q-kGRvO4mRQ3Ul0bJLr0nkkxI4QlwHdzqzVWP8kb4FK5dzCkMKt5H5InEbyH300SHAwrqza_PpMxt3UO8/s1600-h/102+-+8+-+Garganta+del+Diabolo.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204881859189662034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMFPDLVOcIiHVqWclC8S5DRDZgVr3j9dvISbgtdiUCn6VyhqLnbHW3Lzw1ai5Q-kGRvO4mRQ3Ul0bJLr0nkkxI4QlwHdzqzVWP8kb4FK5dzCkMKt5H5InEbyH300SHAwrqza_PpMxt3UO8/s400/102+-+8+-+Garganta+del+Diabolo.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt3uHvG7OwzXOpEfKW_XQSn0JJzJ0ibHN8V8OHBgFCeNk_fX07j_kWYK9wCQkrHHkffOw2gURfNo5Ore4lDvbXSIauPiaE16sYAT2L6dpnbpz_jhmZd_jwluTvSDoOVCJgA4EvR31dZ1Tp/s1600-h/102+-+9+-+Perspective+on+Garganta+del+Diabolo.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204881863484629346" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt3uHvG7OwzXOpEfKW_XQSn0JJzJ0ibHN8V8OHBgFCeNk_fX07j_kWYK9wCQkrHHkffOw2gURfNo5Ore4lDvbXSIauPiaE16sYAT2L6dpnbpz_jhmZd_jwluTvSDoOVCJgA4EvR31dZ1Tp/s400/102+-+9+-+Perspective+on+Garganta+del+Diabolo.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMUU0R1s6EQ8Qg_vwxaXOUw7leg1h6vXJPZRZq-I_m_eSlsgJ8R5Rqkofq2vCDYHZ_tzidmiPIq60sQy9sGWiDkatMpQ4VBIs-kAtle7wXPgZxkxop69mfq-dVMUd15HBJ3-exBx0IpMjZ/s1600-h/102+-+9+-+The+Path+to+Garganta+del+Diabolo.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204880514864898258" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMUU0R1s6EQ8Qg_vwxaXOUw7leg1h6vXJPZRZq-I_m_eSlsgJ8R5Rqkofq2vCDYHZ_tzidmiPIq60sQy9sGWiDkatMpQ4VBIs-kAtle7wXPgZxkxop69mfq-dVMUd15HBJ3-exBx0IpMjZ/s400/102+-+9+-+The+Path+to+Garganta+del+Diabolo.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-9gUwkUZcDiaW2F9FB_w2BQDmNXh-EP6mgWtgbl567ORlvRNTtSzJLH06vY4Sn6-Uhk0_PEXO1zVi2PkGDDRDBQUj1UMuiDaxj87cQcctoubW6tVo8GKHEU_xssdgvzY_sQg4u4XqeFz/s1600-h/103+-+1+-+Abandoned+Road+Camp.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204880523454832866" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-9gUwkUZcDiaW2F9FB_w2BQDmNXh-EP6mgWtgbl567ORlvRNTtSzJLH06vY4Sn6-Uhk0_PEXO1zVi2PkGDDRDBQUj1UMuiDaxj87cQcctoubW6tVo8GKHEU_xssdgvzY_sQg4u4XqeFz/s400/103+-+1+-+Abandoned+Road+Camp.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWKDBiGEgtqZNueK61JrAbfd0wNvfdLIL1zUhWk35_qwzEP4p3pJi-mTlRC7bgctfMN9ZHe6WCeMUluEvJoemnUbIB1OLhWDVNIrpBLAKkabneL1sRTkGLSNvlN3DdxdwihPSoLFVBRJmy/s1600-h/103+-+2+-+Another+Amazing+Green+Tree+just+outside+my+tent.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204880527749800178" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWKDBiGEgtqZNueK61JrAbfd0wNvfdLIL1zUhWk35_qwzEP4p3pJi-mTlRC7bgctfMN9ZHe6WCeMUluEvJoemnUbIB1OLhWDVNIrpBLAKkabneL1sRTkGLSNvlN3DdxdwihPSoLFVBRJmy/s400/103+-+2+-+Another+Amazing+Green+Tree+just+outside+my+tent.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />I love these all green trees<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqdf3dQrjFU8zO2FhWdRFHNcov8FpphqSvrpB9Vd-0qxjdQTrBPbz6NSWUh5skTG2Dc8lMQn3MnpoyaaahsOqcRMz4QRZdenFQ9O2yULNBdXtV4Y4ycEv-O1k1u8lO6kA5SngK5Oi7eICb/s1600-h/103+-+3+-+Amazing+Road.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204880532044767490" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqdf3dQrjFU8zO2FhWdRFHNcov8FpphqSvrpB9Vd-0qxjdQTrBPbz6NSWUh5skTG2Dc8lMQn3MnpoyaaahsOqcRMz4QRZdenFQ9O2yULNBdXtV4Y4ycEv-O1k1u8lO6kA5SngK5Oi7eICb/s400/103+-+3+-+Amazing+Road.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRwlsxfMrkvYc5sN2p5bslV6THiV0g_CmO5pQv5fa0vhdnVsEKM3JXd99bu2_uNcBeaXMRiayvyoa3GES35i77r_8xjidXa2Ks9nXp0VayencF4hD0HuvdxNIKMpil26qMexr4bpWe7fDM/s1600-h/103+-+4+-+AlemanIA+1.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204880536339734802" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRwlsxfMrkvYc5sN2p5bslV6THiV0g_CmO5pQv5fa0vhdnVsEKM3JXd99bu2_uNcBeaXMRiayvyoa3GES35i77r_8xjidXa2Ks9nXp0VayencF4hD0HuvdxNIKMpil26qMexr4bpWe7fDM/s400/103+-+4+-+AlemanIA+1.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjulK2BF8IfQpv07xurjs5LP7flTrkVLG-0N9kpknm7IQxcD1Ze8_e6nEr6kDfZFgLZ4IllV-f6C0XU7cqc8aP394YmJxpMeEq5kk20wXEWo4jZ0clJ8gh0a3EMnRM_tzdhQVvDdbvtlyNJ/s1600-h/103+-+5+-+AlemanIA+2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204879913569476738" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjulK2BF8IfQpv07xurjs5LP7flTrkVLG-0N9kpknm7IQxcD1Ze8_e6nEr6kDfZFgLZ4IllV-f6C0XU7cqc8aP394YmJxpMeEq5kk20wXEWo4jZ0clJ8gh0a3EMnRM_tzdhQVvDdbvtlyNJ/s400/103+-+5+-+AlemanIA+2.JPG" border="0" /></a> Alemania<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8igbITPH-PvgQ2f7z5Jq5Tgn4DEIxEJwcF-tspT1urFr2hmAwQAcFnsI25Hztre4Ysgo2kn_S1OlK14EC8i4GRqXZDbh3xVHFzKA6OGeyeJEKL1Zzl83P_NrZzy7SpND_6_WSG3WektCb/s1600-h/103+-+5+-+Colonial+Building+El+Carril.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204879917864444050" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8igbITPH-PvgQ2f7z5Jq5Tgn4DEIxEJwcF-tspT1urFr2hmAwQAcFnsI25Hztre4Ysgo2kn_S1OlK14EC8i4GRqXZDbh3xVHFzKA6OGeyeJEKL1Zzl83P_NrZzy7SpND_6_WSG3WektCb/s400/103+-+5+-+Colonial+Building+El+Carril.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-YN-f1zzmzsMbM9x8Y5cOtJnzYmIyMJnNqx1V_GrMD41au-Bz74DjkEwdBJfTVttgZHKNXM0gJTAD292Oseb7E9LlsuZ0Nd_p1knfNQUsDZLZNLeNE8soBDvxMK7qiH6GiG6yWN66_mfZ/s1600-h/105+-+1+-+Salta+Church.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204879917864444066" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-YN-f1zzmzsMbM9x8Y5cOtJnzYmIyMJnNqx1V_GrMD41au-Bz74DjkEwdBJfTVttgZHKNXM0gJTAD292Oseb7E9LlsuZ0Nd_p1knfNQUsDZLZNLeNE8soBDvxMK7qiH6GiG6yWN66_mfZ/s400/105+-+1+-+Salta+Church.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBJ-tJ5KFNmPfGUH3PRoFGQGKuAaeJqC1_My5y77fBmKEOriy7ZXOaAphBiJ6VEjB4egLhqrqZ6BS5Z3VcoMWrfrF7EZ67GWqPY78CycvPUTynDra8vNmtQ3xcCeirUMsjXdygCZEjnpap/s1600-h/105+-+2+-+Salta+Main+Square.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204879922159411378" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBJ-tJ5KFNmPfGUH3PRoFGQGKuAaeJqC1_My5y77fBmKEOriy7ZXOaAphBiJ6VEjB4egLhqrqZ6BS5Z3VcoMWrfrF7EZ67GWqPY78CycvPUTynDra8vNmtQ3xcCeirUMsjXdygCZEjnpap/s400/105+-+2+-+Salta+Main+Square.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN4cJg4Vy2LoA0k2Msgo4mQqJHzzD06AJAc8LQ7AwG2Mjanji5VyddWXqj9AN0v047DflC_EK1Bp1cr1PP7nsHjbChFHDQIKHT-KIU7fsDnFMTvOnmaDSvZggYn03xTM9bK5ZYfawMwagw/s1600-h/105+-+3+-+Really+neat+Euro+Delicatessen+in+Salta.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204879922159411394" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN4cJg4Vy2LoA0k2Msgo4mQqJHzzD06AJAc8LQ7AwG2Mjanji5VyddWXqj9AN0v047DflC_EK1Bp1cr1PP7nsHjbChFHDQIKHT-KIU7fsDnFMTvOnmaDSvZggYn03xTM9bK5ZYfawMwagw/s400/105+-+3+-+Really+neat+Euro+Delicatessen+in+Salta.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Week 15 - Part II finally begins in earnest</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Day 99</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>It's good to finally get out of the hostel scene and back into camping - both Dave and I got sick after too much time in close quarters with too many people and bugs. Just an annoying cold, but they rarely happen on bike trips. Camping - about the only big disadvantage is getting out of bed on a cold morning, especially if the sun hasn't hit the tent yet, but a pleasant vista beckons and soon we're hitting the real climb. Tucuman is a bit over 300m, and yesterday we made it to around 500. The next towns lie around 2,000, so we have some uphills ahead. Pretty much the entire day is up and up and up. Before long we'll be doing 3,000m climbs and more, but for now this is plenty.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Tucuman is amazingly green, I assume the moisture must be from the Atlantic since the Andes keep most of the Pacific clouds at bay. As you climb the near rain-forest gives way to drier and drier vegetation and soon we're back to near desert conditions. By afternoon we complete most of our climbing for the day - we arrive at El Mollar and what I guess is the main resevoir for the Tucuman area. We're around 1900m by now, and on the other end of the lake is Tafi del Valle whose campground will host us tonight. At the base of tomorrow's climb...<br />The camp is fairly decent if you're ever this way. A few other campers join us - one from France. The office has quite a few newspaper clippings of local points of interest including a nearby observatory which looks intriguing.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Day 100 - </div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>a different kind of century.It's been 100 days since 4 strangers with a fondness for cycling set out from Mendoza heading south - now the group is down to 2 and my odometer is nearing 5000km for this ride, it's been a good one so far, although part 2 is just starting.<br />Today is ... more climbing. We really don't know how much exactly - but as far as we can see out of town, the road just keeps going up and up. Dave's still feeling the cold a bit, but we manage to keep going and after only a few more hours we make the summit - the sign says 3042m - just a hair shy of 10,000ft - which is my highest pass to date, although the altiplano, where the valleys often exceed 4000m, still beckons.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />The ride up has pleasant views of town and the lake, and it's interesting to see how heavy clouds just hang at lower altitudes over the road leading back towards Tucuman - where it's green, while up here there's plenty of sunshine and arid. As soon as we head down the other side, the rainfall gets turned down another few notches and cactii start appearing everywhere - just everywhere, thousands and thousands of them (they look like suguaros (sp) to me -your standard, big desert southwest cactus with a few arms - although I don't think I've ever seen one live in the States).</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />And so we head down and down. The road gets rougher and rougher but is still paved, sort of. Before long we're back down to around 2500m and there's a sign for the observatory. So I take the bait. I start biking up this gravel road and quickly leave the bike and hike up to the observatory. This has got to be at least close to one of a kind - a private observatory operated as a kind of tourist attraction - complete with dormatories and breakfast. For AR$60 ($18) you get bed, breakfast, and a heavenly show. We have to try this out.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Felix is our guide to the stars - he and his assistant (I'm assuming wife) pretty much are the observatory. We're here with 2 ladies from Buenos Aires who are wrapping up their vacation. Anyway, I get the impression that Felix pretty much built just about everything around here - the observatory, the dormatories named after constellations, like I said, he -is- the observatory. He lets us take a quick catnap before getting us for sunset through the telescope. Then a discussion about the prenumbra (sp) - the time between sunset and when the first star is visible. Despite my abysmal Spanish, the discussion is quite lively and I find it somewhat possible to follow along - in general I find techincal discussions much easier than every-day stuff since the vocabulary is so much more similar.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />That's followed by star-gazing - the crab nebula (I think), which I learn is part of Orion, a cloud of stars, Alpha Centauri, our nearest neighbor, which I learn is both a binary star and is also only visible from the southern hemisphere. Finally Iota Centuari, another star cluster. Then it's time for dinner and finally views closer to home of the moon, Saturn and Jupiter. In general, the views are nothing compared to the photos NASA puts out, but it's still just amazing to look through a 30cm or so lens and mirror and convert a dot of light into a planet with rings and moons. Jupiter doesn't rise until around 1:20 so it's another late night, but a thoroughly enjoyable one. If you're at all interested in astronomy and are near Tucuman, head for Ampimpa observatory. Just a fun evening.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Day 101We have breakfast at the observatory, a warm shower, and then it's more downhill - continuing where we left off yesterday. More cactii, more beautiful desert vistas, and soon we're at Amaicha del Valle. A quick internet fix would be good, but nothing's online, so after buying a few essentials like jamon crudo and pickled aji peppers, we're back on the road and headed for Quilmes - Argentina's answer to Maccu Piccu and beer. The former because the Quilmes we're here to see is an ancient city from around 800AD which at one point probably housed several thousand inhabitants up the side of the mountain here. Today only dozens and dozens of stone terraces are visible, but it must have been quite an impressive site when still inhabited. It managed to outlast and coexist with the Incas who briefly ran the show in these parts. But soon the Spaniards arrived and still the Quilmes held out for another century until the Spaniards put some muscle, and I suppose firepower, into the effort and eventually drove out the inhabitants and settled them in a barrio of Buenos Aires. Unforunately that is pretty much the end of their story, but the barrio still bears their name and in the late 1800s a German immigrant founded a brewery there which is now probably the most popular brand of Argentine beer - again of the same name.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Anyway, Dave and I first sit down to chow lunch - made quite difficult by the world's most annoying donkey who simply accepts verbal and mild physical abuse and still nudges closer and closer for a bite of lunch. After a somewhat tortuous lunch session and a brief chat with the first Turkish license plate we spot here (owned by, what else, Germans, who live not to far from Datca, Ece), we finally explore the ruins. An impressive site.<br />After that, it's pretty much a straight shot of mostly slightly downhill road into Cafayate - the local tourist magnet. It's situated in the middle of dozens of vineyards, plus things like Quilmes, a scenic canyon road, plus more challenging roads to places like Cachi. Plus it just looks inviting - a nice central plaza, lots of restaurants and tourist trappings, yeah, you could chill out and relax for a few days here.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />In our case, we just camp at Luz y Fuerte (light and force?) together with several dozen Germans. Most, but not all, of them are part of "Das Rollende Hotel" - basically, a hotel on wheels - and yes, it is a hotel - the front S&D vehicle is a heavy duty Mercedes fully kitted with seating for 30 or so, plus there's a giant trailer with a similar number of beds and a kitchen in the back. Only showers are missing, but it isn't meant for quite that extreme a trip. So it travels from Peru via Boilivia to Puerto Iguazu and every evening it pulls into a campground or occasionally a real hotel, and they bring out a few folding benches & tables and make a field canteen complete with bread and wine. Not a bad way to travel, although I still think I'll stick to cycling. But they do offer us some soup, bread, and cheese and we graciously accept - no cyclist can turn down good food.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />And of course, there are a few other German (& Swiss and Austrian) campers here as well. A nice little spot.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />DAY 102</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Cafayate is a nice little town. We head for the plaza and fill up on groceries and information. I'm leaning towards riding to Cachi but Dave wants to take the direct road to Salta. In the end Dave prevails since I really don't care that much. The road to Salta is amazingly scenic - at least the first 45km are - first some sand dunes followed by a Utah-esque landscape condensed into a few miles of road: eroded sandstone formations in all the colors of the rainbow, except maybe purple and blue. We make frequent stops and take plenty of pics.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />The final stop is the Devil's Throat - the same name as the biggest waterfall at Iguazu. In this case, it is cast in stone - a kind of really tight canyon with an ampitheater at the end. By the time we get through, it's getting late so we continue heading down the road towards Salta and eventually make camp on an abandoned road overlooking the present road.<br />Road conditions are fine, although we fight moderate headwinds for much of the day (btw - on this scenic road is where we meet the older German cyclists who went from B.A. through Uruguay & Brazil to Iguazu, Ciudad de Este and through Paraguay which I mentioned last week).</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Day 103</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>We break camp fairly early and after 20km or so make it to the town of Alemania - Germany basically, although it's a fairly sad place - a nearly abandoned town on an abandoned train line. It looks like they put some effort into fixing up the old train station to sell local arts and crafts. The locals insist on a non-standard pronunciation - AlemanIA instead of AleMANia for Germany.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />We continue heading north and soon are in forests and mostly agricultural fields - big crops around here seem to be tabacco although we also find a locally produced olive oil and boy is it good. After stopping in, the person running the who tells us it's only sold in liters, but eventually offers to fill our 0.5l bottle, then throws in the rest of the sample bottle for free. Amazing generousity. He seemed quite interested in our tour.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />The day wears on and it'll be a long one. We're making amazing time and decide to go for Salta - about 135km in total. We make it into the city with the sun just starting to set and quickly find a youth hostel from Lonely Planet - Hostel Oculta (means "hidden" in Spanish). And we're still in time for a BBQ - quite a feast served on the rooftop of the hostel - for 30Pesos you get loads of meat, salad, bread, and wine, plus about 15 fellow travellers from all over - somehow I congregated with 4 Germans.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />DAY 104 - mostly just running errands, posting stuff to the blog, and getting information about the roads ahead. The final task proves difficult - the info centers don't seem to have much in the way of information about road conditions, other than to recommend a few common tourist circuits. But we get the free map and decide to look for more information online. Sometimes cycle touring is just too specialized and tourist info folks are a bit at a loss to make recommendations. </div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Not a terribly exciting day. The bikes never move. Terra Oculta has "free" internet access on a single PC in a crowded room with no WiFi. I sit down with all my gear in a crowded room and manage to knock both my laptop and camera onto the floor in the space of 1/2-an-hour. Plus the manager is a real jerk - their 2nd branch (where we sleep) is a lot friendlier, but in general go elsewhere for internet access. Fortunately nothing broke (nothing like a flash based laptop - although the screen, and myself, did freak out on impact, but after a full reboot all was well) but these small tests of gravity will prove eventful next week. </div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Day 105 -Initially we intended to leave Salta today, but decide to hand another day. We may well be waiting in San Pedro anyway, and there's still some more work to do. I really want to ship back the first set of picture DVDs - just in case we're somehow separated from our data over the course of cycling through Bolivia or Peru.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />I haven't quite backed everything up - we actually had 1 DVD to go, and found a fellow hostel guest with a burner, but the burn failed. So we spent the morning checking out internet cafes - with no luck. We decide to head to the Post Office and get more info. This was rather fortunate - basically shipping in Argentina makes Chile look organized, and I have some experience there with my hub.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />To receive anything of value (i.e. non-letters) you may well be in for a trip to Buenos Aires - there are several online stories related to this, and there's the Austrian couple we met in Chile who needed a new transmission for their camper.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Fortunately, shipping is slightly easier - just head to the Post Office, where, if you're in a big enough city, they'll refer you to the local customs station. Take your goods there - they're generally open 2-3 hours every weekday - along with your passport, wrapping paper, a box, and tape. Then package the goods in front of the customs officer, and they then turn into a postal worker and complete the transaction.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Once you understand how it works, it's really not too terrible, and the prices weren't too extreme. Only problem is by the time we find customs, it's 12 on a Friday and they close at 12 and all I have is a partial DVD collection in my hand. So I find some leftover kraft wrapping paper from a fellow sendee, skip the box, and just wrap the DVD holder in paper, show them a copy of my passport, pay, and hope for the best. I actually wanted to send a few other odds and ends like the worn horseshoe I found way back in January - useful stuff that just seems to be weighing me down a bit. Oh well, maybe in Chile before we head to Bolivia.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />After all the fun at customs, it was back to posting the blog, lunch, and finally getting ready for the next big section - this will be one of the hardest sections - crossing the altiplano (high plain) between Argentina and Chile. And by high, we're talking around 3500 - 4700m and water sources somewhat erratic - i.e. plan ahead. So we read up on other cyclists blogs and decide to cross along Ruta 51. It's mostly unpaved, but also shorter, generally lower, and has more towns than the newer 52. Of course, this is just getting ready for the real cycling challenge - crossing the Salar de Uyuni in SW Bolivia - a high-altitude salt flat about 100km across and another 350km or so of desolation just to get there. Fun. So it's time to get acclimated to high altitude.<br />Anyway, the rest of the day is fairly uneventful - just packing and eating, although we do hit a bike store and I replace my duct-taped saddle with a nice loud yellow one, plus replace my @$%! Crank Bros pump (I like most of their stuff, but their tiny pump really sucks, I mean it barely blows, if you're lucky) and in the evening, we get a bit of a treat - another hostel guest is showing an Argentine con-man movie. Pretty decent flick - the standard "who will screw who" flick, but fairly intelligent and I like how they worked in the bank failures which struck here in 2000. </div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-39866604297651694532008-04-18T05:46:00.000-07:002008-05-10T19:11:28.810-07:00Week 9 - TORRES DEL PAINE - FINALLY!OK, having problems with copy and paste so all pics are at the start... sorry - will fix eventually - anyway - finally - Torres del Paine! More pics are in text.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik1V25-QKXL77D8v6IE4-z4AgHuEXmjX2Nml9eqLxlBWW0DVy1IY54P3-FxlXqMyrWL_OqLfbi7Y7fisN_UzIlOWsxp0vjohqI5IjZGptn8tsMh0Jqx7zgKNbEXrv3e6SvZJ2nVHfsWKdF/s1600-h/063-6+-+Amazing+SA+with+Israeli+Hitchhikers.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193236731525392626" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik1V25-QKXL77D8v6IE4-z4AgHuEXmjX2Nml9eqLxlBWW0DVy1IY54P3-FxlXqMyrWL_OqLfbi7Y7fisN_UzIlOWsxp0vjohqI5IjZGptn8tsMh0Jqx7zgKNbEXrv3e6SvZJ2nVHfsWKdF/s400/063-6+-+Amazing+SA+with+Israeli+Hitchhikers.JPG" border="0" /></a> Amazing older S. African surrounded by Israeli tourists - day 63<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwNaguFDKATCDor9u60mUPE8BoOCZYLvYvvMfWM64H9_AsxIPITSGYy08EKWEGaX1GLDRyl_Hdrzmas3XjZOIGUtVYYPtnoo9iUGm9JqrjzHTeMGznHcfZGQviin5DQ1W-A5zO-xwPSs3g/s1600-h/063-7+-+Avalanche.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193236744410294530" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwNaguFDKATCDor9u60mUPE8BoOCZYLvYvvMfWM64H9_AsxIPITSGYy08EKWEGaX1GLDRyl_Hdrzmas3XjZOIGUtVYYPtnoo9iUGm9JqrjzHTeMGznHcfZGQviin5DQ1W-A5zO-xwPSs3g/s400/063-7+-+Avalanche.JPG" border="0" /></a> Avalanche - Grande Paine<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDUhpaVb_OoHILQXMr41HYsNxyEiY0RwNxF5nXkDjUJQyvSt9t2OE1DxUdWLSLGAwEDTekUwNpW1iga12tkmYRVyHAiik6sdkfJNzpPEXrNnsp0KIhYFSfJAyOPiZKhklBFSc-qv9RPycy/s1600-h/063-8+-+Use+Sturdy+Wire+to+Cross+Stream.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193236753000229138" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDUhpaVb_OoHILQXMr41HYsNxyEiY0RwNxF5nXkDjUJQyvSt9t2OE1DxUdWLSLGAwEDTekUwNpW1iga12tkmYRVyHAiik6sdkfJNzpPEXrNnsp0KIhYFSfJAyOPiZKhklBFSc-qv9RPycy/s400/063-8+-+Use+Sturdy+Wire+to+Cross+Stream.jpg" border="0" /></a> Use sturdy wire to cross river - day 63<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVuUgzIdDpmYxDRzyVYqB16FlAzDX9OVvbABBZewvgSB2H3MTl1OzABwdR7AQxfispK1EgDLar9pxEkOkK3JnjTCr_JPf6ESR03hoWytHSEank6jxKqPzMx3aw5ZtI1vhUM2oTdvOEyXRR/s1600-h/063-1+-+Paine+Grande.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193235443035203746" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVuUgzIdDpmYxDRzyVYqB16FlAzDX9OVvbABBZewvgSB2H3MTl1OzABwdR7AQxfispK1EgDLar9pxEkOkK3JnjTCr_JPf6ESR03hoWytHSEank6jxKqPzMx3aw5ZtI1vhUM2oTdvOEyXRR/s400/063-1+-+Paine+Grande.JPG" border="0" /></a> Grande Paine - 63<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmGEX7r3cgQspEq2cBYviNv2MoEh5oq3F0NXcN7lDgtr4JwZs5MZ6E2SiL9SHcX3cah4PN1dn2DsRLWWOWqjd4saa70KfvmwcvZ8CMeD8ERDde3hN4coAH_pdgC7wgiOMorSieh6U4reJB/s1600-h/063-2+-+Climbing+to+Scree.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193235455920105650" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmGEX7r3cgQspEq2cBYviNv2MoEh5oq3F0NXcN7lDgtr4JwZs5MZ6E2SiL9SHcX3cah4PN1dn2DsRLWWOWqjd4saa70KfvmwcvZ8CMeD8ERDde3hN4coAH_pdgC7wgiOMorSieh6U4reJB/s400/063-2+-+Climbing+to+Scree.jpg" border="0" /></a> 63 - up the scree<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmKqBhrDu8KhQ7-GFiyC-oHQ-iwW3wPO9k-Ug1ZxhRr64r7lNHMNCPP4feudE_8vgWzcA6e2HRcPp1wv9yUPz715yTTIwu_29Ef3cCHXV7CX2btUlcWUW-xU-Q7jmOrUnOSD1tJd4rZR5s/s1600-h/063-3+-+Knife+Edge+Reflection.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193235455920105666" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmKqBhrDu8KhQ7-GFiyC-oHQ-iwW3wPO9k-Ug1ZxhRr64r7lNHMNCPP4feudE_8vgWzcA6e2HRcPp1wv9yUPz715yTTIwu_29Ef3cCHXV7CX2btUlcWUW-xU-Q7jmOrUnOSD1tJd4rZR5s/s400/063-3+-+Knife+Edge+Reflection.JPG" border="0" /></a> 63 - I like the knife edge mtn & reflection<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxW20zKOk9oHczHX0JJKIStFPUBV8frP4i58V2w22MPMfYiYxUZjb0d0RAIa_wRfKawOMAsAUlf8TryfyucxJalL8U_Ug9LyTRcFX21ViTrDb0yyrrcdksMtUpy-SF-TfpVz17JR_7E6Wt/s1600-h/063-4+-+Clearly+Labelled+Mirador.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193235460215072978" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxW20zKOk9oHczHX0JJKIStFPUBV8frP4i58V2w22MPMfYiYxUZjb0d0RAIa_wRfKawOMAsAUlf8TryfyucxJalL8U_Ug9LyTRcFX21ViTrDb0yyrrcdksMtUpy-SF-TfpVz17JR_7E6Wt/s400/063-4+-+Clearly+Labelled+Mirador.JPG" border="0" /></a> This was the mirador (viewpoint) kinda obvious in retrospect - instead I kept hiking up scree for an hour or so - 63<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPmHA7AGNXANRU6KnlB5CKR_apdM6oQcQ3JGA3lXEmoteQHqnF0CkJWzoGFyKsE6xJfUY79mUDP1eizLlKqP4yLY9nNAmyIg_4BQczDEP3IdBoHV-dMNT5hNkeTFhs2vt3R83yRpT5k_9/s1600-h/063-5+-+Amazing+Piles+of+Snow.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193235464510040290" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPmHA7AGNXANRU6KnlB5CKR_apdM6oQcQ3JGA3lXEmoteQHqnF0CkJWzoGFyKsE6xJfUY79mUDP1eizLlKqP4yLY9nNAmyIg_4BQczDEP3IdBoHV-dMNT5hNkeTFhs2vt3R83yRpT5k_9/s400/063-5+-+Amazing+Piles+of+Snow.JPG" border="0" /></a> Grande Paine again - 63<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmMtM5dszWbTq7Sf_ANkcUYn11YuN4WXmRtsIcr-4qnFJsf2IOcr7GKaz75_Rq-lpizRUALTwW03b2AMZ3z4l90nDGTfL593cvW9utEDhXPTgJv_1NGMaquKooJaxSli2IVSWOsr3o-VKA/s1600-h/062-4+-+These+shots+practically+take+themselves.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193233480235149394" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmMtM5dszWbTq7Sf_ANkcUYn11YuN4WXmRtsIcr-4qnFJsf2IOcr7GKaz75_Rq-lpizRUALTwW03b2AMZ3z4l90nDGTfL593cvW9utEDhXPTgJv_1NGMaquKooJaxSli2IVSWOsr3o-VKA/s400/062-4+-+These+shots+practically+take+themselves.JPG" border="0" /></a> Final view of Grey - 62<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuQW1d1evdqHRyvKBfK_LQ406iqeafdm9Tc1yuf_954E8P9D5kFPK_ed7hBWzRNNIOt6VdV-d5Fc6hcfyb_zZ1ZPLux3abuVwbVwW5OIQJCIsNJA_IwgeszihV_apqeDqQcwkWDYnNCPt1/s1600-h/062-5+-+Ice+Rock+Plant.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193233484530116706" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuQW1d1evdqHRyvKBfK_LQ406iqeafdm9Tc1yuf_954E8P9D5kFPK_ed7hBWzRNNIOt6VdV-d5Fc6hcfyb_zZ1ZPLux3abuVwbVwW5OIQJCIsNJA_IwgeszihV_apqeDqQcwkWDYnNCPt1/s400/062-5+-+Ice+Rock+Plant.JPG" border="0" /></a> Ice Rock Plant - 62<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmbwV2smUpQRfRHXhq0wlylDIlsyOjZ5sMcdPYd6h8XNQ3SxwG3brnQhnWu8md4ijMJ5CjIFgDnI2buI4zwJntFJF918O0H_CRQWKTY67P9ESzc42ckh4Y5Q__3Ke6zO8hAbOnU1z-97og/s1600-h/062-6+-+Reflections.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193233488825084018" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmbwV2smUpQRfRHXhq0wlylDIlsyOjZ5sMcdPYd6h8XNQ3SxwG3brnQhnWu8md4ijMJ5CjIFgDnI2buI4zwJntFJF918O0H_CRQWKTY67P9ESzc42ckh4Y5Q__3Ke6zO8hAbOnU1z-97og/s400/062-6+-+Reflections.JPG" border="0" /></a> Nice reflection - 62<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn1tY5-gDLoleI48NtCMbYT7Hi5V3h6cO_Knxp3thbwbOLsTFAjt4gHKXR9Ebqfi6uLVwiXeRvvekLVsKk5wTSE6PiMgp61F1m2IiJeUe5vtiPkweLnhr_IDgPtF5tVoCPrxSY7uKYGjOY/s1600-h/062-7+-+Campo+Italiano.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193233488825084034" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn1tY5-gDLoleI48NtCMbYT7Hi5V3h6cO_Knxp3thbwbOLsTFAjt4gHKXR9Ebqfi6uLVwiXeRvvekLVsKk5wTSE6PiMgp61F1m2IiJeUe5vtiPkweLnhr_IDgPtF5tVoCPrxSY7uKYGjOY/s400/062-7+-+Campo+Italiano.jpg" border="0" /></a> First veiw of Grande Paine - 62<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-FtA6Y2O7-uRdZ6tjze0RDhtqm8uKmH8C0HA-G9kVRUut2w3-FHj0POQikzq9RGsmOuPOKsXfvZOmRj41PMJcvpLUKvcFKdJVUgrfxuByT06EmNqu7YCkUl4LpqpJ9RBEP49A3w_L4YpD/s1600-h/062-8+-+The+Path.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193233493120051346" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-FtA6Y2O7-uRdZ6tjze0RDhtqm8uKmH8C0HA-G9kVRUut2w3-FHj0POQikzq9RGsmOuPOKsXfvZOmRj41PMJcvpLUKvcFKdJVUgrfxuByT06EmNqu7YCkUl4LpqpJ9RBEP49A3w_L4YpD/s400/062-8+-+The+Path.jpg" border="0" /></a> The Trail - 62<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNs8y8Yn-y-Kwn3WhBxFec3Nzz27UuzHr1L9H42WQIZ_Zie-t8ulQM6ohKJZm-bAqeUE04fjzpYudF7knZmws79JRYwv1YJl0j-CnyE2vsR1vUysiCyMsNW-EVtEVOTKZLBRAFx1aybNry/s1600-h/061-14+-+Close+Up.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193230636966799362" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNs8y8Yn-y-Kwn3WhBxFec3Nzz27UuzHr1L9H42WQIZ_Zie-t8ulQM6ohKJZm-bAqeUE04fjzpYudF7knZmws79JRYwv1YJl0j-CnyE2vsR1vUysiCyMsNW-EVtEVOTKZLBRAFx1aybNry/s400/061-14+-+Close+Up.JPG" border="0" /></a> On Gray - 61<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YFGv1A1RHCTFq6QqYuAF_TZsSOLJ1_cfmY2FS6yTUIpsznEfKcXoLBl50aRFysXn8eZmHDLLMgD-LY2GMCGoNrqXdQWGefj4UI4-de65161xTpnY4ooj_XSPWycp8Dt60OSnD2JnJTXO/s1600-h/061-15+-+Yeah+I+like+this+place.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193230641261766674" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YFGv1A1RHCTFq6QqYuAF_TZsSOLJ1_cfmY2FS6yTUIpsznEfKcXoLBl50aRFysXn8eZmHDLLMgD-LY2GMCGoNrqXdQWGefj4UI4-de65161xTpnY4ooj_XSPWycp8Dt60OSnD2JnJTXO/s400/061-15+-+Yeah+I+like+this+place.JPG" border="0" /></a> I like this place - 62<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipK1IIuJi-oEQJyEId5qSz0g67Q41gFtEDjMaqZI-5ppSVHjnVRdNiZgupMYtYhtF1lFaxv0jQTpg5_e_dZ4bVaDWVTO5TkbYPxdQ1bXRjo2YnqLE48DJjOBp9kKRhG9A9H1jhukg40s3X/s1600-h/062-1+-+Size+Comparison.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193230654146668578" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipK1IIuJi-oEQJyEId5qSz0g67Q41gFtEDjMaqZI-5ppSVHjnVRdNiZgupMYtYhtF1lFaxv0jQTpg5_e_dZ4bVaDWVTO5TkbYPxdQ1bXRjo2YnqLE48DJjOBp9kKRhG9A9H1jhukg40s3X/s400/062-1+-+Size+Comparison.JPG" border="0" /></a> Size perspective<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixI2seHbtHBvpUlXskdrn1ueKpdGApzSA1dq50k1YGokA62EmoLv7V54Z-n5SYViY5J352uZR4VLSqjccxEz_rzxN6yNMLMdsFrorXDBspfentgAEMV4957yAHHGml1DRE2Eun6CKNxxvI/s1600-h/062-2+-+A+Study+In+Ice+and+Camera+Defects.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193230662736603186" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixI2seHbtHBvpUlXskdrn1ueKpdGApzSA1dq50k1YGokA62EmoLv7V54Z-n5SYViY5J352uZR4VLSqjccxEz_rzxN6yNMLMdsFrorXDBspfentgAEMV4957yAHHGml1DRE2Eun6CKNxxvI/s400/062-2+-+A+Study+In+Ice+and+Camera+Defects.JPG" border="0" /></a> A study in ice and camera defects (spot on left - now fixed itself in week 16!)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYBNfUC9UP_tM8yJMa5MAnl6WyRk14PXW7RREYIvFMv9Hx6-biuX7UajTwhnhWLYaZORKSFudO1CJT_W7rkn7dz7-dA9p5qOf7jhXsv2LRBdaQwTXQV3uqp8H1jYxF-Jhvfdf8f2XH9cq/s1600-h/062-3+-+Another+Amazing+Mountain.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193230662736603202" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYBNfUC9UP_tM8yJMa5MAnl6WyRk14PXW7RREYIvFMv9Hx6-biuX7UajTwhnhWLYaZORKSFudO1CJT_W7rkn7dz7-dA9p5qOf7jhXsv2LRBdaQwTXQV3uqp8H1jYxF-Jhvfdf8f2XH9cq/s400/062-3+-+Another+Amazing+Mountain.JPG" border="0" /></a> More snow cap - 61<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqwnBTjPn-9wNtJ2qONb3-RxVbPHO71InDsca9aBS-zMwwy3JkN80XChwnzMDmoYThg5oJqkdEnumoFAPGVKn2uw1lRUEmG6d66nSVqVHXmq-NXxwUt1jBZXY8E8CWRxKVu6YlmPqV3mfn/s1600-h/061-4+-+Us+at+the+pass.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193225336977155970" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqwnBTjPn-9wNtJ2qONb3-RxVbPHO71InDsca9aBS-zMwwy3JkN80XChwnzMDmoYThg5oJqkdEnumoFAPGVKn2uw1lRUEmG6d66nSVqVHXmq-NXxwUt1jBZXY8E8CWRxKVu6YlmPqV3mfn/s400/061-4+-+Us+at+the+pass.JPG" border="0" /></a> The summit - well the pass - Tatjana, Bill, Mike, and Ben - I think - Day 61<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBzX-pgbNGNOlzfXn4l4iGGEF6CFQQaGp6ASrr_0IzH5rs03Sc_pMyjKfHq7d1gfNW3FLes5ajUnKUb0MRx8gveNc3BnM0elanRGpSFyJQWHpi434KrVYupFXrsWyz_dXgims9UFms2hhX/s1600-h/061-10+-+I+just+like+this+one.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193225345567090578" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBzX-pgbNGNOlzfXn4l4iGGEF6CFQQaGp6ASrr_0IzH5rs03Sc_pMyjKfHq7d1gfNW3FLes5ajUnKUb0MRx8gveNc3BnM0elanRGpSFyJQWHpi434KrVYupFXrsWyz_dXgims9UFms2hhX/s400/061-10+-+I+just+like+this+one.JPG" border="0" /></a> Awesome Glacier Gray - 61<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPpMmpBZKUqmK1er3kJXCvJ472wHX3L3eW8GWqovVeKFN77ApTZT176leZaEkU3l6Vv26WaiNWgQMBO5qQM1jFizZAjorL_AZVveO-04-JWxzbKMq2jkssHk0XUkBiRXmuQhrVdaVIX8p/s1600-h/061-11+-+Just+getting+close.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193225345567090594" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPpMmpBZKUqmK1er3kJXCvJ472wHX3L3eW8GWqovVeKFN77ApTZT176leZaEkU3l6Vv26WaiNWgQMBO5qQM1jFizZAjorL_AZVveO-04-JWxzbKMq2jkssHk0XUkBiRXmuQhrVdaVIX8p/s400/061-11+-+Just+getting+close.JPG" border="0" /></a> Gray up close again - 61<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3yp8uZL4jEkUVyOVbXFeTdDJ6paVzNIvVqBB2T63UomXIUr3fy2IBOZuqsWdEJFYplfiB2BfYwN340kQ_JJx8wZHr4tFyGh25h5qwvd7X5yRK_bOtSJb9KCR-nXpnHNHpPQNrHiO6TEX7/s1600-h/061-12+-+Another+experimental+shot.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193225349862057906" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3yp8uZL4jEkUVyOVbXFeTdDJ6paVzNIvVqBB2T63UomXIUr3fy2IBOZuqsWdEJFYplfiB2BfYwN340kQ_JJx8wZHr4tFyGh25h5qwvd7X5yRK_bOtSJb9KCR-nXpnHNHpPQNrHiO6TEX7/s400/061-12+-+Another+experimental+shot.JPG" border="0" /></a> Another experimental shot - 61<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDwUaGjw7_sY9h-D2KnP8LUIHB-Cxiwfry4pC_pj2KFIiCOToFk76V-_n_E9K5-YjI0q_KZbqg05aBIph5FyOVsrlrMQCpBe96bfX2jtNiyB-4eyLKrSnbMRuGb8iWs67Mth-sHkxYlBim/s1600-h/061-13+-+Get+back+before+dark.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193225362746959810" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDwUaGjw7_sY9h-D2KnP8LUIHB-Cxiwfry4pC_pj2KFIiCOToFk76V-_n_E9K5-YjI0q_KZbqg05aBIph5FyOVsrlrMQCpBe96bfX2jtNiyB-4eyLKrSnbMRuGb8iWs67Mth-sHkxYlBim/s400/061-13+-+Get+back+before+dark.JPG" border="0" /></a> More Gray - 61<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafspTeSGPN3hA2zBTC8mDje7DTzJscq0UHLicBsDuCc318n3ZEVv9gjcckIC7aBZUffi3DK8O6p_Ql_EOxIx051s_DnYfsFkfSdry67JMn5VJpr7fWm2TXGM4hhkUJnaNugnF1Y1ydbYe/s1600-h/060-8a+-+What+Mega+Zoom+is+made+for.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193224005537294114" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafspTeSGPN3hA2zBTC8mDje7DTzJscq0UHLicBsDuCc318n3ZEVv9gjcckIC7aBZUffi3DK8O6p_Ql_EOxIx051s_DnYfsFkfSdry67JMn5VJpr7fWm2TXGM4hhkUJnaNugnF1Y1ydbYe/s400/060-8a+-+What+Mega+Zoom+is+made+for.JPG" border="0" /></a> Lago Dickson<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAHktGemE0yyhX2I_6reSZvSbFpqrKEN3bOa8iVdEBdhzfckYCEuLdTbz29324X7UpF52Kh89QsGD5pXUTtXhlnKcy4de2qcEQA69a3GdH4ytr18f19tjLw5oZvPFCxUZpNSFj-hpLZZB/s1600-h/060-8b+-+A+bit+closer.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193224014127228722" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAHktGemE0yyhX2I_6reSZvSbFpqrKEN3bOa8iVdEBdhzfckYCEuLdTbz29324X7UpF52Kh89QsGD5pXUTtXhlnKcy4de2qcEQA69a3GdH4ytr18f19tjLw5oZvPFCxUZpNSFj-hpLZZB/s400/060-8b+-+A+bit+closer.JPG" border="0" /></a> This is what megazoom is for - same shot as above - 60 - see day 60 for the ultimate zoom on this amazing rock and cloud<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7QuYAsPIL2JGOESnK2LJQL_wewecuKroftD3KdvBuPJ57BgLW0ZGh3XE6HmyNZS5-_WKpwTKPCedPpf3wkWP29CWR_WPUXZDDvWvgpoQftVLfJr-M9qxsSiRPdlkLbeLH6hbZ0l45zAS6/s1600-h/061-1+-+Camp+Perros+-+Tatjana+and+Bill+at+breakfast.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193224018422196034" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7QuYAsPIL2JGOESnK2LJQL_wewecuKroftD3KdvBuPJ57BgLW0ZGh3XE6HmyNZS5-_WKpwTKPCedPpf3wkWP29CWR_WPUXZDDvWvgpoQftVLfJr-M9qxsSiRPdlkLbeLH6hbZ0l45zAS6/s400/061-1+-+Camp+Perros+-+Tatjana+and+Bill+at+breakfast.JPG" border="0" /></a> Hangin around for breakfast - Tatjana and Bill - 61<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaGqYaHjz2wbn3cLb1hisrXG38nSJwnGMsGtVFbjn_UDyo12S-N_XPLs0OMToVUl1KUwBU3FvVBTQe96Gj-35bExgYH6V6vKX09ohbWKh67fMsJORnVfrxN2V-3zuLzleas9O3im3zijF9/s1600-h/061-2+-+Camp+Perros+-+Chopping+wood+for+the+common+area.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193224018422196050" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaGqYaHjz2wbn3cLb1hisrXG38nSJwnGMsGtVFbjn_UDyo12S-N_XPLs0OMToVUl1KUwBU3FvVBTQe96Gj-35bExgYH6V6vKX09ohbWKh67fMsJORnVfrxN2V-3zuLzleas9O3im3zijF9/s400/061-2+-+Camp+Perros+-+Chopping+wood+for+the+common+area.JPG" border="0" /></a> Chopping Wood at los Perros - 61<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMAY3zWxkNNq3Y3pWIZIoEzc2CTXc0YhFxEQtbmD6hGryHgqMoPFulDZqmVk3KrGf5nBSu0zefJLP-Sx5Y1W7VcAt1-u9klvhpwbxHc0t8S3enzu9u2Yz4SP6y9rsDH-_bxD0p4vZqokfq/s1600-h/061-3+-+Me+and+Moses"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193224022717163362" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMAY3zWxkNNq3Y3pWIZIoEzc2CTXc0YhFxEQtbmD6hGryHgqMoPFulDZqmVk3KrGf5nBSu0zefJLP-Sx5Y1W7VcAt1-u9klvhpwbxHc0t8S3enzu9u2Yz4SP6y9rsDH-_bxD0p4vZqokfq/s400/061-3+-+Me+and+Moses%27+staff.JPG" border="0" /></a> My Boomstick - at pass day 61<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2lvSn3Z_ydA0nRKOXAIgpDbF9YF6ZdJPbjG56UjcdaRK5DIjZhEF-FbLArwlTVR2ayVRTQArUAGE7YsahdQZ3PRjc7iA8pRYsb-Yux0y1phWFXM4jGAdWZXQEeJ47ngejgpd4vguvB4rU/s1600-h/058-3+-+First+view+of+Torres.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190578131896630850" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2lvSn3Z_ydA0nRKOXAIgpDbF9YF6ZdJPbjG56UjcdaRK5DIjZhEF-FbLArwlTVR2ayVRTQArUAGE7YsahdQZ3PRjc7iA8pRYsb-Yux0y1phWFXM4jGAdWZXQEeJ47ngejgpd4vguvB4rU/s400/058-3+-+First+view+of+Torres.JPG" border="0" /></a> The Torres - Day 59<br />WEEK 9 - TORRES DEL PAINE! FINALLY!<br /><br />OK, I'm going to try something novel for this trip - actually make entries on the day they occur, well, really close anyway. I still have part or all of weeks 2, 3, 7, and 8 to go, but this is week 9 and we're heading to Torres del Paine this week, a pretty special part of the trip. Right now I'm alone in my tent in sight of the mountains and the Southern Cross and eating a great dinner with the stuff I could procure at the little outpost restaurant near the border crossing - including a Cervesa Australe from Punte Arenas.<br /><br />Unfortunately, we're not heading to Torres del Paine together, but more on that soon - right now Dave is at location unknown and Joe and I are in the rain on<br /><br />DAY 57 - March 8 2008 **********************<br />Begins in the rain. And continues in the rain. Few things are as demoralizing as a wet tent, a cold day, and grey sky with low clouds all around. Yep. That's today. At least the tent is mostly dry, as is the sleeping bag.<br /><br />This is the kinda morning where you just turn over and go back to sleep. But no, after what seems like an eternity without a shower, I come up with the novel idea to try to take one in the rain. So I stick yesterday's shirt into my cleanest dish which is full of rainwater, add some soap, and go to town in the middle of this desert day of rain. Actually, first it was time for a number 2. Soon it's so cold I don't even notice how cold I'm getting - nice strong wind, annoying rain, and a cold rag to get me clean. Actually, I can start to feel my individual hairs again, instead of a matted clump, so it seems to be working. But soon I'm shaking so hard it's time to get back into the relative warmth of my tent where I discover the temperature is a balmy 7C/45F. Once I'm mostly dry and the shaking is under control it's time to get back into the sleeping bag and turn over.<br /><br />So 11 rolls around and Joe and I are still nice and warm and outside is still nice and rainy and it's time to get moving rain or shine. I eat the foods that are close to hand, leave the dirty dishes out in the rain, and very slowly get organized. By around 1 it's back on the road.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT_vmdxhH9ugCTksVd7YYrFOuVyKJJ4mZgDaoFulWzTzUKD7U2I28DlUQBF68XMbxIuQOvBlNp5rHwIulXx7pVIfqxNBHnkTc3qo4N6qIb7md_jV0HsYh7tYy6wstAj3tnfZGnoZuRI7jt/s1600-h/057-1+-+Rainy+Day+C2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190578106126827010" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT_vmdxhH9ugCTksVd7YYrFOuVyKJJ4mZgDaoFulWzTzUKD7U2I28DlUQBF68XMbxIuQOvBlNp5rHwIulXx7pVIfqxNBHnkTc3qo4N6qIb7md_jV0HsYh7tYy6wstAj3tnfZGnoZuRI7jt/s400/057-1+-+Rainy+Day+C2.jpg" border="0" /></a>[Yep, that same 2CV been seeing for some time now - since way back in Puerto Montt before the Carretera Australe, here we share a wet Ruta 40]<br /><br />Joe is still breaking camp and we decide to meet up at the gas station about 20km down the road.<br /><br />While there are always more ways for things to go wrong, road conditions are let's say difficult. The headwinds are still there, not as strong though, but add lots of water to the mix, and the road was definitely of the very-slow-going type. 2.5 hours later, and only 16km down the road, the gas station appears. In this case, the international white-on-blue restaurant symbol we see means chips, cookies, and Coke and between Joe and I we sample a good deal of what's on offer.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6fAiz6bCDokRqi279SWrgFm0rhldHCsqIVmlW7j8yjrvCpQ0SnhQiS4nKwddJ5-Au7py-mSIP2ff5eUz6yeTpaQddfdwyZ0ovpmhNJ6B-XSAy8WHTyvQ1IQ44YmlBrBEQgD9Dy6nLmIxx/s1600-h/057-2+-+Rainy+Day+Gas+Station.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190578114716761618" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6fAiz6bCDokRqi279SWrgFm0rhldHCsqIVmlW7j8yjrvCpQ0SnhQiS4nKwddJ5-Au7py-mSIP2ff5eUz6yeTpaQddfdwyZ0ovpmhNJ6B-XSAy8WHTyvQ1IQ44YmlBrBEQgD9Dy6nLmIxx/s400/057-2+-+Rainy+Day+Gas+Station.JPG" border="0" /></a>[The Gas Station at the End of the Road]<br />We clean up, warm up, make use of the facilities, and by around 6:30 we're ready to roll again. Headwinds have kicked it up a notch or two - I'll put them around 30-40 sustained and gusting to 60km/h, but at least the rain has ended, even have some sun. After about 40min and 7km, Joe's thinking that that shelter back near the gas station that the friendly road construction guy offered to us is looking mighty good, especially in the face of unrelenting wind and pretty much nothing in sight. I concur.<br /><br />Riding back takes about 1/4 the time, and for the day we cover all of about 16km of ground, but some days are more difficult than others. Evening finds us back near the gas station - in this great 3-sided shelter which is strategically placed to block the wind almost entirely. We're able to unpack and dry out our wet gear and spread out for a sheltered dinner. Even get a bit of electricity while the generator runs.<br /><br />Ruta 40 is living up to it's reputation - all kinds of conditions. The stretch to the gas station (at the junction of the provicial road to Esparanza) is muddy, washboard, lousy ripio, and continuing southwards it turns back to excellent condition pavement. Road is fairly level.<br /><br />DAY 58 *************************<br />starts out lovely and promising. I'm just sleeping out in my bag and can watch the big sky - a few times I spot the Southern Cross during the night and later watch the colors change before sunrise. Soon it's time to get up and get moving again.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtHUwXFCwBUiB7dHngOd0sPbVQQuyTaOAuFL4Ai9V3_MUuLgNJbL_6wkpel1pHKZ7c8Mtse9AmrSRiCRfpZM3TeRSRE-D1Wg0JbZFBqkHp_vEiKrE4iyyy2-U_eg1eVgfyhgZgt6YpeMd2/s1600-h/058-1+-+Snow+after+the+rain.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190578119011728930" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtHUwXFCwBUiB7dHngOd0sPbVQQuyTaOAuFL4Ai9V3_MUuLgNJbL_6wkpel1pHKZ7c8Mtse9AmrSRiCRfpZM3TeRSRE-D1Wg0JbZFBqkHp_vEiKrE4iyyy2-U_eg1eVgfyhgZgt6YpeMd2/s400/058-1+-+Snow+after+the+rain.JPG" border="0" /></a>[it snowed last night - up high - the view from camp]<br />Winds start out reasonably low and we cover ground at around 18-20km/h. Later things start to slow down again. The sun is stubbornly behind clouds and without its warmth and the headwind the day is surprisingly cold. It's also fairly uneventful.<br /><br />By around 3pm we're at the next decision point - there's a mostly paved route to Puerto Natales where Dave should be by now. There's also a gravel road straight into the now strong headwind. It leads to Torres del Paine, where we're all heading. But with rain forecast tomorrow and food supplies running low again, Joe opts to head for PN, while I take the brutal gravel road for T d Paine. This is my first time on gravel in 60-80km/h headwinds. It's not fun. Actually, the stretch to the border is not quite as bad. The real winds don't kick in until later. I make the Chilean side which turns out to have a little market with some fresh veggies and sausage - hence my tasty dinner here in the middle of nowhere. Even have a pretty good hamburger for lunch - smothered in guacamole, known as a "hamburgesa completa" here.<br /><br />Not sure if I made the right choice, feel a bit guilty for not checking on Dave, but I figure we're all heading here, and there's not much I can do for a broken rim. He should be well taken care of in PN. The food situation is taken care of and I'm really looking forward to making the park tomorrow.<br /><br />And then the real winds hit. I don't know why I do this sometimes, it borders on unreal - you start to lose traction on the gravel due to the wind rather than the grade, of course there's some of both. The first 10km out of town take about 2 hours and finally the winds relent to something more manageable, although I still almost lose it a few times in a really mean crosswind;<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2s6Ub76wb-UCcM0UNhDILQmn8rfqpUxk2bdcoag7Qd1KaPnrq3ozWXEH07uIfcYrlEwajN6ag5CRxifJ34nB9oPovyk0I7fcdNHI4vVAzKE8uSupcpYIhu8ZFdt6F7ji6heZAKPh4Shwq/s1600-h/058-2+-+Crosswindy+road+after+Cerro+Chico.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190578123306696242" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2s6Ub76wb-UCcM0UNhDILQmn8rfqpUxk2bdcoag7Qd1KaPnrq3ozWXEH07uIfcYrlEwajN6ag5CRxifJ34nB9oPovyk0I7fcdNHI4vVAzKE8uSupcpYIhu8ZFdt6F7ji6heZAKPh4Shwq/s400/058-2+-+Crosswindy+road+after+Cerro+Chico.JPG" border="0" /></a>[Strong cross-winds on road from Cerro Chico]later the bike finally decides to lie down while I'm on top of it trying to take a picture. By evening winds are down to the point I toy with the idea of making the park in the dark. But in the dusk there's this beautiful lake with a great view of the great massifs of T d Paine and it looks like home for the night. Still a respectable 90km from the gas station.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2lvSn3Z_ydA0nRKOXAIgpDbF9YF6ZdJPbjG56UjcdaRK5DIjZhEF-FbLArwlTVR2ayVRTQArUAGE7YsahdQZ3PRjc7iA8pRYsb-Yux0y1phWFXM4jGAdWZXQEeJ47ngejgpd4vguvB4rU/s1600-h/058-3+-+First+view+of+Torres.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190578131896630850" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2lvSn3Z_ydA0nRKOXAIgpDbF9YF6ZdJPbjG56UjcdaRK5DIjZhEF-FbLArwlTVR2ayVRTQArUAGE7YsahdQZ3PRjc7iA8pRYsb-Yux0y1phWFXM4jGAdWZXQEeJ47ngejgpd4vguvB4rU/s400/058-3+-+First+view+of+Torres.JPG" border="0" /></a>[First view of the Torres]<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitH_99cwHW5cRZHqIlOc4my0TxKBBu9gpgK66opdZtwR4fFG424DcA5GBFUBObKTg5ePRDw7LpHekD2kZKkUmbJCzk5SvjEVXmAazD6zP0MdHHVGQlI6EBbywj7tR8c_gqe7cskWlnkKSX/s1600-h/059-1+-+Morning+on+Lago+Sarmiento.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190582504173338194" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitH_99cwHW5cRZHqIlOc4my0TxKBBu9gpgK66opdZtwR4fFG424DcA5GBFUBObKTg5ePRDw7LpHekD2kZKkUmbJCzk5SvjEVXmAazD6zP0MdHHVGQlI6EBbywj7tR8c_gqe7cskWlnkKSX/s400/059-1+-+Morning+on+Lago+Sarmiento.JPG" border="0" /></a>[Evening camp]<br />Camp is setup fairly quickly and it's another camp-cooked-meal and working on the log and listening to mp3s. A good night in other words. And right now the stars are out, so who knows, perhaps the forecast will be wrong...<br /><br />DAY 59***************************<br />Continuing the 'live' report.... another night, another campsite, this one official - from Camp Seron here in Torres del Paine Parque Nacional in far southern Chile - Magenllanes - the southernmost province (XII) unless the disputed Chilean claim to Antarctica forms another one. Still quite a bit disputed down here - Mt. Fitz-Roy is the northern limit of a disputed border between Argentina and Chile where Argentina kinda reaches into Chile - they definitely are currently in de-facto charge of some prime real estate like Calafate. On Chilean maps there's often this large grey box denoting the disputed region. Not much love lost between Argentina and Chile. Dave said it started in an earlier conflict where Chile was on the losing side and Argentina grabbed quite a bit of land down here. Today you mostly feel it when entering Chile with their much stricter border controls. By comparison, Argentina barely seems to care what comes in.<br /><br />Not sure how I get onto these tangents. Right now my shoulders are just sore after a not particularly long hike with a somewhat overloaded backpack (what do you expect from an overloaded bicycle). At least I didn't bring the solar panel and the fresh food is disappearing fast tonight so tomorrow should be lighter.<br /><br />Morning starts on the shore of Lago Sarmiento. Not much different from last night. The Torres are still shrouded in ominous clouds, but no rain seems to be anywhere else.<br /><br />I think about trying for an early start and beating the fee collector - entry here costs about $33 per person. But then I remember I like to support national parks, even if this one is really overpriced. Plus I'm not in the mood to rush. So by around 10 I'm rolling towards the entrance -<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5E8RU2Sb_6zezUrFOLpKdLjBqb4ipyi4V5zcZUHJHgbNRMI1ShK0kdaAr5ghifzh8TMC-o_GlO6vMJiguaAQey5-Kqy2dlOlYQEYmOWVm6lNA51fFa-hsc0XJybaKqIebcZBSt1doNUHa/s1600-h/059-2+-+Road+into+park.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190582508468305506" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5E8RU2Sb_6zezUrFOLpKdLjBqb4ipyi4V5zcZUHJHgbNRMI1ShK0kdaAr5ghifzh8TMC-o_GlO6vMJiguaAQey5-Kqy2dlOlYQEYmOWVm6lNA51fFa-hsc0XJybaKqIebcZBSt1doNUHa/s400/059-2+-+Road+into+park.JPG" border="0" /></a>[The road into the park]<br />along Laguna Amarga -<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSFkJ5ocU63g9Q3RmWbJKtt7u3R0BD4abVRG2XlpwGXfmg8Ra7muZFBqrIIuwYEjF5XNbI-Z7vheHubfa-G5-ML6Aj9k9Py-vEvOVMbTKWlx9bYvqOOagb3vMvsvV_9SJh6Sq2A0HgFi7M/s1600-h/059-3+-+Salt+Lake+-+Laguna+Azul+into+park.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190582508468305522" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSFkJ5ocU63g9Q3RmWbJKtt7u3R0BD4abVRG2XlpwGXfmg8Ra7muZFBqrIIuwYEjF5XNbI-Z7vheHubfa-G5-ML6Aj9k9Py-vEvOVMbTKWlx9bYvqOOagb3vMvsvV_9SJh6Sq2A0HgFi7M/s400/059-3+-+Salt+Lake+-+Laguna+Azul+into+park.JPG" border="0" /></a>a salt lake providing an interesting contrast to the Torres. From there it's up another gravel road to the Cascadas del Paine -<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb8jQPQnvV4HVDv7S0l2j41-8GJBdIrVfjUnL8lOk77z0Q6KOJyWhYDa2RcpWRdD01gnovRRLBWDFlRhZVwQqso-N1PBzpCjNQbFKP6XqAH5abP4vHvNbY4156OZDbDzvZuXRCJTenrt04/s1600-h/059-5+-+Cascada+d+Paine.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190582521353207442" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb8jQPQnvV4HVDv7S0l2j41-8GJBdIrVfjUnL8lOk77z0Q6KOJyWhYDa2RcpWRdD01gnovRRLBWDFlRhZVwQqso-N1PBzpCjNQbFKP6XqAH5abP4vHvNbY4156OZDbDzvZuXRCJTenrt04/s400/059-5+-+Cascada+d+Paine.JPG" border="0" /></a> probably worth the trip if by car, somewhat more challenging by bike. Finally, on to the real park entrance. Goal is to figure out just what's going on.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzQQVvNRTQHMUD2GXUXyecPIyUBbuTbIKqnUto5RxqzSeVr6H5mJa17Ni382TA2mPBjN_nwV_CgaKALeQ0rP2GCHbTMfM0PDwEelcrGttaLRLdS42AsgImdtLlbUiBImfD41qHOpTFqLMx/s1600-h/059-4+-+Lots+of+Guanacos.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190582517058240130" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzQQVvNRTQHMUD2GXUXyecPIyUBbuTbIKqnUto5RxqzSeVr6H5mJa17Ni382TA2mPBjN_nwV_CgaKALeQ0rP2GCHbTMfM0PDwEelcrGttaLRLdS42AsgImdtLlbUiBImfD41qHOpTFqLMx/s400/059-4+-+Lots+of+Guanacos.JPG" border="0" /></a>[and everywhere you look, guanacos]<br /><br />Joe has a contact here, but at the gate noone recognizes the name. Hmmm, things are getting more complicated. Headquarters is 40km away, which I'll also have to return to start the hike I want to do. Then there's a hosteria with internet access - but it's pricey at 1000 peso ($2.20) for 10minutes. It's at the end of another gravel road which is also on the path I want to hike, so the decision is pretty easy.<br /><br />To get to the hosteria you cross an antique suspension bridge (there's a sign at the gate noting the 1.5ton capacity and asking everyone except the driver to walk across). Then I see a small tour bus on the other side and figure there must a substantial safety margin, or people like to press their luck.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKFNBoxLxPTunmkSqmJatPv7G4DGrqEkBuS1SOO5srsc2VBG53sUSVtlvl_Y31DI1CGK1_lC_mWyY7YqWxHQoWcFGXGTUmCPZkCLwU6pPgXtKhdUSjLu-cdVUMdp_Ynh4WQH-g38zj357i/s1600-h/059-6+-+Bridge+to+Camping+Torres.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190584127670976162" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKFNBoxLxPTunmkSqmJatPv7G4DGrqEkBuS1SOO5srsc2VBG53sUSVtlvl_Y31DI1CGK1_lC_mWyY7YqWxHQoWcFGXGTUmCPZkCLwU6pPgXtKhdUSjLu-cdVUMdp_Ynh4WQH-g38zj357i/s400/059-6+-+Bridge+to+Camping+Torres.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />From there it's a terrible road to a luxury hotel. Did I say 1000 for 10 minutes, why no, it's only 5000 ($11) for 20 or 30 minutes, who's counting anyway (typical rates here are 300-600 per hour). Of course it's complimentary for our guests with singles starting at a mere $200.<br /><br />I see few apparent Chilean guests, minimum wage for a month would cover one night. But there are surprising number of Americans here, about the first concentration I've encountered. The seem to fly in, stay here, rent a car and maybe check out El Calafate and Chalten in Argentina, then fly out. But not a lot ride bicycles or drive all the way down here (I've met 4 in the former category and seen 2 plates - Washington and Alaska)<br />Yeah, it's pricey in the park, although not everything is too bad. There are still a few free campsites and the pay ones are a reasonable $7/night. But if possible, buy food outside the park, although the concessions on the roads (as opposed to on the trails) have a few things at near-normal prices.<br /><br />Fortunately, an fellow American is having a hard time logging into hotmail, so after some assistance he's gracious to give me his internet connection for 5 minutes to check up on Joe and Dave.<br /><br />They are both alive and well and in Puerto Natales with plans to enter the park tomorrow. By now I've got everything ready for the hike today and decide to head out alone anyway rather than reorganize again to camp here and do the same thing tomorrow. Turns out Joe's contact Sofia works at the campground right next to the hosteria, so I pay her a visit and talk about cycle-touring (she's done Central America), then head out for my first day on the Circuito - an 8-9 day hike I plan to do in 5 or so. And I'm off to a good start for a 4hour first day leaving at 6:15pm. The first day is fairly easy - above and back down to the Paine river, although the Torres are quickly out of view and we're in the trees and grasslands.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb0HPpfso-i8NtBWEwezdPAtD4LtQv9USgD6sz2yoWJRyXY2tFp3tb_SZ1Np_i9tlr-mbVpyRZcms5Nj5lzFUTR-Z-fy5mVLdTu1r-JojW1sK3Qpt6-VkikttClvmr1HbdzUcFZWiDZB1L/s1600-h/059-7+-+First+day+Hike+in+forest.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190584136260910770" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb0HPpfso-i8NtBWEwezdPAtD4LtQv9USgD6sz2yoWJRyXY2tFp3tb_SZ1Np_i9tlr-mbVpyRZcms5Nj5lzFUTR-Z-fy5mVLdTu1r-JojW1sK3Qpt6-VkikttClvmr1HbdzUcFZWiDZB1L/s400/059-7+-+First+day+Hike+in+forest.JPG" border="0" /></a>Still quite nice. From a bluff I see camp and time is going well, according to the markers, I've covered the first 3 hours in about 2 which is good as it's getting late. Problem is the last hour takes about 1:20 and by the time I arrive it is dark. Oh well, at least there's a cold shower to welcome me. And welcome it is. I'm setting all kinds of personal bests here, including most time between showers - about 6 1/2 days, not including my frigid morning experiment in the rain.<br /><br />Now that's better. And after cooking some dinner it's time to sit down and write this - and now it's time for bed under the southern cross.<br /><br />DAY 60********************<br />Live from a very chilly, windy night near the Los Perros glacier at the camp of the same name. Winds really whip down off the ice sheet, got a neat video of just clearing the scree to view the lake and get the blast of wind.<br /><br />Today starts out comfortable and rainy and finishes sunny and in pain. A long hike of near 30 km and 9 hours or so and I'm really feeling my legs and back. But the views are amazing and get really good once the sky clears.<br /><br />Let's see - I could have had a hot shower this morning - good idea should you come this way. Los Perros, tonight, is another pay site, but no agua caliente and few supplies - actually very few, can't even make change so he lowers the rate for me to 3100, which is the closest I can get with the stuff in my pocket. They're shutting down in a few days time. I guess we're lucky that we arrived in time to do the circuito. I suppose you can still hike, but no supplies and probably no running water (but water abounds here and everyone drinks from the streams).<br /><br />But I stick with the cold shower I had last night and get going in a mild drizzle. The path follows the Paine river up to refugio Dickson - a really nice spread overlooking Dickson glacier.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwFBxqUmYaEimbhEY-A1cRzfRWoo5ZlfkGk8DiXt17xksENrOFKFrBtUETQygrLa1M0wlR-L_0pRjLvgZNP2L3nv3Ogk3xLhHJT6d5VEfODJFzKZU8E0HtAaK0mLXgLabw-RgH4wGYpBzO/s1600-h/060-1+-+Hike+Day+2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190584140555878082" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwFBxqUmYaEimbhEY-A1cRzfRWoo5ZlfkGk8DiXt17xksENrOFKFrBtUETQygrLa1M0wlR-L_0pRjLvgZNP2L3nv3Ogk3xLhHJT6d5VEfODJFzKZU8E0HtAaK0mLXgLabw-RgH4wGYpBzO/s400/060-1+-+Hike+Day+2.JPG" border="0" /></a>[The morning path]<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXvju5zxR4DvCRxqh9nhTzBecauGCaKzzHZfv6wHHCBb26eRv6lun_exNRU7U8URsWXq1Z_nNkxV7y9MT8Y1FAvwsuOSNOpCBaBeDTBhnPrGu74zXrZovDJh07nU3nFd5gW6lVbs_dmZVj/s1600-h/060-2+-+Hike+Day+2-2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190584144850845394" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXvju5zxR4DvCRxqh9nhTzBecauGCaKzzHZfv6wHHCBb26eRv6lun_exNRU7U8URsWXq1Z_nNkxV7y9MT8Y1FAvwsuOSNOpCBaBeDTBhnPrGu74zXrZovDJh07nU3nFd5gW6lVbs_dmZVj/s400/060-2+-+Hike+Day+2-2.JPG" border="0" /></a>[more morning path]<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-7bPRCEQ13Kad10WYh-PIWN6MwnKTukjAUnP6uyAgdwT4_clBpywOHN4y10m5KKpbOliQInKlsxeHgqMMfsbrgSmctaCFQi6m3GtyG4m3tehDetan7gu91ve8kvMWrimaKm6VlyDcZjYi/s1600-h/060-3+-+Parrots.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190584149145812706" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-7bPRCEQ13Kad10WYh-PIWN6MwnKTukjAUnP6uyAgdwT4_clBpywOHN4y10m5KKpbOliQInKlsxeHgqMMfsbrgSmctaCFQi6m3GtyG4m3tehDetan7gu91ve8kvMWrimaKm6VlyDcZjYi/s400/060-3+-+Parrots.JPG" border="0" /></a>[and everywhere parrots]<br />You can bunk or camp here and they make some nice hot chocolate I'm told, but I didn't try any. Unfortunately, the mosquitoes like it, too. Really like it. Most people heading this way seem to continue, as do I with the limited time budget.<br /><br />Dickson is a 6hour hike, and I'm just a bit under that including a lunch break, but I'm starting to feel it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4k8idgrM0TRd07EckVZq_wfWW6Twb2QT5j9j20Y4kIYP11sajoqm_xLyr_blLjT0wrKKbDb2Miqsjixd6Y7Ic-n9-GjN7v5bjNlwBSxIXUn8yeoWkyVseOQ7M0QrhWl88mX6kIwOhqQsW/s1600-h/060-8+-+Amazing+Rock+And+Cloud.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5192923430841018050" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4k8idgrM0TRd07EckVZq_wfWW6Twb2QT5j9j20Y4kIYP11sajoqm_xLyr_blLjT0wrKKbDb2Miqsjixd6Y7Ic-n9-GjN7v5bjNlwBSxIXUn8yeoWkyVseOQ7M0QrhWl88mX6kIwOhqQsW/s400/060-8+-+Amazing+Rock+And+Cloud.JPG" border="0" /></a>[I just love this shot from Dickson into a mountain in the clouds - this is what mega-zoom cameras are for]<br /><br />From here, it's another 4-hour hike and I hook up with an Australian doctor and a Canadian electrician - or Tatjana and Bill + also briefly with Ben, a French electronics engineer. We slow down a bit and enjoy the views as the sun is finally really out for the first time in a few days - and the views are great.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHIaNOZql5_9J9VKsEPWekqF7lC5AfPkIzmorNTez2rO1ZijcmlEJzKsxUr_UyhaPzbC6AFjrEyfG6stF2SzN4lEm-9t47skoFsYqB-dTqbel5kwvewMOm0nWL4odi3Nm-y4rMdw5RBu1/s1600-h/060-4+-+I"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5192923362121541250" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHIaNOZql5_9J9VKsEPWekqF7lC5AfPkIzmorNTez2rO1ZijcmlEJzKsxUr_UyhaPzbC6AFjrEyfG6stF2SzN4lEm-9t47skoFsYqB-dTqbel5kwvewMOm0nWL4odi3Nm-y4rMdw5RBu1/s400/060-4+-+I%27m+getting+old.JPG" border="0" /></a>[Boy, I´m getting old]<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9m9KQK2eXkyf3zaJq3Stg7c1DLqyzdia-n5aGMYUIUmHeB4bsHb_XRLLecjiHHeVJqnBxsurSuwGHpeslX8ZFnWlGJAMmZQOMDDujK6zgG5XTl4SqOQ3_-XVqDvzmBhUsd7NJesLPl7T-/s1600-h/060-5+-+More+Beautiful+Mountains.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5192923383596377746" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9m9KQK2eXkyf3zaJq3Stg7c1DLqyzdia-n5aGMYUIUmHeB4bsHb_XRLLecjiHHeVJqnBxsurSuwGHpeslX8ZFnWlGJAMmZQOMDDujK6zgG5XTl4SqOQ3_-XVqDvzmBhUsd7NJesLPl7T-/s400/060-5+-+More+Beautiful+Mountains.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />[Sorry this came out sideways - no time to fix it, the original was already rotated]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC9M0i_dVySzoAH1syi4BE7kT3hy4XUFqNrw5zsQZv7W7eL4plGJ5asJI0VJZZ3Jl0b_NGo-PA4x3szRe6_FMO62wu7BGXJnLrXNK7vmr_hwIOMsARZsIKLQ_PeLtjoeFGpL_N7wBuhaIM/s1600-h/060-6+-+Tatjana+and+Bill+talkin.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5192923409366181538" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC9M0i_dVySzoAH1syi4BE7kT3hy4XUFqNrw5zsQZv7W7eL4plGJ5asJI0VJZZ3Jl0b_NGo-PA4x3szRe6_FMO62wu7BGXJnLrXNK7vmr_hwIOMsARZsIKLQ_PeLtjoeFGpL_N7wBuhaIM/s400/060-6+-+Tatjana+and+Bill+talkin.JPG" border="0" /></a>[Tatjana and Bill enjoying the view]<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSfyaEk_Yus-db70DQehxC2WuwOnDgy4mRcWxYsTzQcGSFQUc2P-GGMklhXoLH7wqwZwJClOwbnLTSWJzIOiwOY9KOn76H47K0O4i9ZyU1L_tLovFTuujK_CzxQY2CWQrRtrhyQMrqgtt9/s1600-h/060-7+-+Another+Lovely+Shot.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5192923417956116146" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSfyaEk_Yus-db70DQehxC2WuwOnDgy4mRcWxYsTzQcGSFQUc2P-GGMklhXoLH7wqwZwJClOwbnLTSWJzIOiwOY9KOn76H47K0O4i9ZyU1L_tLovFTuujK_CzxQY2CWQrRtrhyQMrqgtt9/s400/060-7+-+Another+Lovely+Shot.JPG" border="0" /></a>[evening hike up the valley]<br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />From Dickson the hike starts heading up to Glaciar Los Perros, crossing a few rivers along the way and ducking in and out of the trees until you get to the moraine? of scree which has built-up the dam-like front end of the lake under the glacier. When you first crest the scree to look at the lake you're blasted with perhaps an 80km/h wind, and it's really cold, too. But you get a great view before coming down again and following a bit higher up the pass into the woods where tonights camp is located. Some wind break, but not quite complete.<br /><br />But camp does have a communal tarp structure - complete with wood-burning stove and it's full of trekkers. Nice place to chill out and cook dinner after a long day. There's Israeli (hitchhikers I assume) who joke about getting thrown out of a hostel for cooking in their room (something we've been known to do as well), and folks from the US, Germany, Switzerland, and I think even a few from Chile.<br /><br />Well, I'm getting cold and I think that about wraps up today. Stats are a little hard to do, but I'm still recording locations on my phone's GPS and my altimeter reads 680 while the crude park map is under 500 and the truth is probably inbetween.<br /><br />A nice, windy, cold night...<br />And we're also feeling all those muscles we've been neglecting for too long. I'm really glad to get to camp, lower the backpack, get the tent up, and finish off the last of my fresh veggies. Tomorrow should be about 1kg lighter. Maybe 1.5. Tonight is under a canopy of trees in the wind, so not much starlight, although it seems to be getting cloudier.<br /><br />DAY 61****************<br />or March 12 - hard to believe it's been 2 months since this whole thing started down the streets of Mendoza. Wow. Surroundings tonight are a lot different - about 200m above Glaciar Grey - a mind-bogglingly big sheet of ice working it's way from the Campo Hielo de Sur through Torres del Paine and into Lago Grey. Hielo de Sur is an immense sheet of ice spanning hundreds of km - both OHiggins glacier about 10 days ago, and Moreno glacier in Argentina are part of the same immense system.<br /><br />It's pretty amazing to see up close.<br /><br />Today starts in the rain like yesterday, but today is a bit more communal - getting to know the others in our informal group of 5 or so hikers. We eventually break camp a bit before noon and start the hike over Paso John Gardner (many of the names here are definitely not Spanish - you've got Lago Nordenskjold, and places like Helsingborg). The path is pretty much out in the open - along fields of scree and the occasional moss covered stream. Up and up and within a few hours it's getting pretty cold and windy, even starts to snow a bit.<br /><br />And then it starts to clear up - about half an hour from the top - just like yesterday. Another amazing afternoon of partly cloudy skies - and another ridge to cross into an awesome headwind - about the same as yesterday or maybe 80km/h. And then it's just there - this immense sheet of ice, slowly grinding down the mountains into more manageable chunks of rock. It just goes on and on out of sight and into the clouds. We continue hiking along it for several hours and will continue for much of tomorrow as well.<br /><br />We take a lot of breaks and pictures on our descent and by late afternoon are at the next campsite in the loop. A friendly ranger greets us in Spanish, and while I figure I should probably continue, the group is working well together and the place is awefully inviting - free, running water, shelter with wood fire, and toilets. Not quite sure why some sites are free and others aren't, but this one is certainly worth spending the night. Just a few minutes from an amazing viewpoint of the glacier, and one of the Belgians here decides to scramble down to it.<br /><br />After explaining how to get there, after dinner I decide to do the same. It's a lot further down than it looks. From here it's this amazing ice sheet that extends past your field of vision. But as you climb down it gets bigger and bigger and most of it starts to disappear. At the bottom it looks like giant sand dunes with even bigger sand dunes further away.<br /><br />But the sun has already gone down and I don't have a light - not that scrambling up rocks in the dark is advisable anyway, so I don't linger for long and make my way back up the rocks, and into the forest and brambles which I then spend the next half hour picking out of my clothes by the fire. A good evening with new friends...<br /><br />DAY 62*****************************<br />just keeps getting better and better - except that I decided to say goodbye to the group. Somehow the need to keep a tight schedule and a 6-or-so-month bike ride doesn't seem to match, but I still need to keep moving - not a lot of excess food plus the need to get to Ushuaia while the weather is still reasonable, (it can snow there at all times of year - they had some in January). Also don't want to keep the group waiting, although at the moment, "I'm in the lead" and don't know how far back Dave will be. He hooked up with a few Americans and is doing the Circuito a bit slower and started a day later. Joe took the bus here so he gets and extra day while I get to cycle 110km on gravel. Yum. We'll see how ferry schedules to Tierra del Fuego work out and how the group reforms. Actually met up with Joe on the trail today and caught up on the past couple of days.<br /><br />But anyway, today started sunny and stayed sunny. Just a few clouds around the peaks here and there. This enormous glacier just expands and expands as the clouds lift. The trail parallels it for the full length to its own lake (Lago Grey), past the calving area (there's quite a few icebergs adrift on the lake) and Glaciar Grey campsite, and then along the lake to Grande Paine campsite. A lot of ups and downs, including some very steep mini-canyons where they decided to install ladders.<br /><br />The quantity of hikers goes up a lot as you approach the "W", the name of this part of the trail system. More and more Americans and also more Israelis, and at least one South African living in the UK and looking near or past retirement age, but still out here with a big backpack and doing the W. Good for her!<br /><br />After Grande Paine it flattens out a lot as it moves around the front side of the various massifs and along the two lakes (Grey and Pehoe), and on to Campamento Italiano where I'm entering these words. The most active campsite yet - another freebie and this one is quite full with a friendly ranger. I cooked dinner next to Antonio and we shared a Spanish / English lesson. He's studying Tourism Engineering - not quite sure what that means, but it appears to include things like hiking a lot, so perhaps a career change is worth thinking about. The lesson went quite well and I hope some of the vocabulary sticks.<br /><br />If you need supplies, Grande Paine has plenty - everything from full dinners to T-shirts and a wide selection of beers. This is hiking in style, and although the prices are quite high, you can still get a big burger and beer for around $8, which isn't all that much different from outside the park around here.<br /><br />Well, tomorrow is shaping up to be another long hike - up to Camp Britain and back to the starting location, if all goes well my last full day on the trail, although I don't know if I should consider that the "going well" scenario, it's a beautiful place. Saturday should be a very early start to see the Torres at dawn. And it's back in the saddle. Ushuaia is calling and I can definitely use a day off to sort out this blog among other things.<br /><br />Time for a hopefully restful night if the mice and foxes don't decide to visit me. I've heard this campsite can get interesting...<br /><br />Day 63***********<br />Week 9 draws to a close here in Torres del Paine NP. Currently sitting in a rainy tent and questioning my sanity. I should be getting sleep right now as I intend to get up in another 4 hours or so to hike up to the Torres viewpoint in the dark for the famous sunrise view. OK, if you've been paying attention, you may note the inconsistency there. But might as well give it a shot, the weather changes a lot here and it's my last day. Hopefully I'll at least have some view if not the famous one.<br /><br />Of course, my sanity is questionable anyway. Started today at Italian camp, then took a light backpack up this amazing valley (Frances) to British camp (Chilean and Japanese camps are in the valley under Torres). The path goes under Cerro Paine Grande, an amazing massif of very steep black rock just shrouded in snow. Every few minutes a good chunk of that comes hurtling downward and makes for quite a spectacle.<br /><br />Anyway, after reaching British camp, it's only 30min to the mirador/viewpoint. It's also 2km which doesn't add up. But I press on anyway. Make it to this rock, but the trail keeps going and soon I'm into the swampy tundra and then into scree. By now I'm definitely way too far, but the view is still quite interesting and it looks like just another few hundred meters of scree and I should be at the ridge and have an awesome view. So an hour later, I'm way up into the scree, but every time I get a bit higher, more scree comes into view. Eventually I get pretty high up and am rewarded with a few more mountains and a lot more scree - another bowl and another ridge to climb.<br /><br />By now this 2-hour side trip has become 4 and the weather looks like it might be getting worse, so it's back down the scree, back down the tundra and the valley to ... the South African near-retiree who is now in the middle of a group of, what else, Israeli hitchhikers. The world is an interesting place. I get to take plenty of pics with about 4dozen cameras and eventually shoot one with my own:<br /><br />From there I continue to my starting point, about 16km in all, where I finish packing my tent and the other stuff I left behind and then continue hiking. It's now 4 and I have 16km to go with full pack...<br /><br />I make the hosteria by 8:30 and pick up my bike and checked luggage, then continue down to the Refugio where Joe's acquaintance Sofia works. She's able to get me a late dinner and recharge several batteries (strictly in the literal sense) - just about everything ran down over the past week, I almost couldn't take any more pictures today.<br /><br />And now it's past midnight and I'm still thinking about tomorrows last section of the trail, should be a good one.<br /><br />Today's hike was definitely the most challenging. The scree field ended up taking me over 1500m - higher than the pass of a few days ago and a lot more difficult, although the weather has been very nice and almost no wind, so that kept things managable. Otherwise, the trail has been much the same as all along - a lot of ups and downs and minor obstacles - roots, streams ... etc to deal with. Not easy hiking, but not too challenging. Mostly it was just really long and I'm feeling everything right now, especially legs and neck. Well, 1 more hike tomorrow and then it's back in the saddle and on to Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas, and eventually Ushuaia.<br /><br />Good Night!<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwUrxLaG-ziOuL1Zsw3rJ0W5CyHmDWsYijVdON6kW0DVUXmi7O0XrF0mNhlgI5xtxbQ_hKpKwQpLIpQOco94g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Glacier Gray<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzqNg59hYAfDvbCPIxpCAZ3FhWj2p2Gl7ZAnkyN0FMiJgd4u1d2x2aq4LS8bsI9zMcxOiATxfHOBsM0eEL4GQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Avalanche - 63<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwbH0cnB_so1HGeGot0BAv2fTTSNolgECcCQUN3HsNXeW86MFuKNwsz4FXxkqoaCkLJqDsg2rAvFXPsO6m0cw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>At Torres - actually day 64<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dw-gbvkhhP_L2bIRKOuHY06z7x4akHVudp6mPYyxFfxZkGR3UvIRUTm8Hu9-3GRNILshxjAa30s3EtrEweajg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Rock surfing - actually day 64 (next week)</div></div></div></div></div></div><br /><br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwsdBOw3_Cb5zNRBKKjef9tu3UCIiYvYKx1jsZpyw395YhbhJ9oMJgpJK52myY1kYoKSDJ3KuM_nPr2chhv6Q' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe> - View from the top of the scree - day 63Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-50047034569116607902008-05-10T18:30:00.001-07:002008-05-10T18:54:33.981-07:00Week 11 - The End of the WorldWeek 11 - Punta Arenas to the End of the World<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNzrpg3qALObBAPKVBFhtyaQQeMjh8Gw5L1vgnTnoy1OWsfuJ5E7IZJxXaigJAoBeGhFu-V-NJsJdZARq56dSgld_3vjH7n-BqhF843wiE26C0IPywN5WyKVINf9i7WaRDuit2pAxf3czX/s1600-h/071-1+-+Fun+With+Statues.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198929894783539650" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNzrpg3qALObBAPKVBFhtyaQQeMjh8Gw5L1vgnTnoy1OWsfuJ5E7IZJxXaigJAoBeGhFu-V-NJsJdZARq56dSgld_3vjH7n-BqhF843wiE26C0IPywN5WyKVINf9i7WaRDuit2pAxf3czX/s400/071-1+-+Fun+With+Statues.JPG" border="0" /></a> Fun with Statues - Punta Arenas - Day 71<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq8ZsAtptnAb6xg3phh_agwLEKv4YQgpvR0x9w81Qiz-7s8tkNDNaXbglJDEaGwAampRYk8sSgZxpQLNkSsWZgaWcBHuYC6eY5Bf9ThhQuQnSH61KXxHjoXU4-l9kbNJuBkdfRIX_gq3oN/s1600-h/072-0+-+Crossing+the+Straits+of+Magellan.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198929899078506962" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq8ZsAtptnAb6xg3phh_agwLEKv4YQgpvR0x9w81Qiz-7s8tkNDNaXbglJDEaGwAampRYk8sSgZxpQLNkSsWZgaWcBHuYC6eY5Bf9ThhQuQnSH61KXxHjoXU4-l9kbNJuBkdfRIX_gq3oN/s400/072-0+-+Crossing+the+Straits+of+Magellan.JPG" border="0" /></a> Ferry across the Straits of Magellan to Porvenir - Day 72<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Pi3WfwZBUdP0Eq257j-c10IaJ2kEZdWfiFrSJxbLDQm8ZVrnHjknVrKCX9zR0TW0ya4pT7XsoOHNmBdlet_HHhjD2TT7_vpWpLWO-XhZyDJX5C_iLjhxpLlmHPAhncHnEKx17QQN0Rq-/s1600-h/072-1+-+Tierra+del+Fuego.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198929899078506978" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Pi3WfwZBUdP0Eq257j-c10IaJ2kEZdWfiFrSJxbLDQm8ZVrnHjknVrKCX9zR0TW0ya4pT7XsoOHNmBdlet_HHhjD2TT7_vpWpLWO-XhZyDJX5C_iLjhxpLlmHPAhncHnEKx17QQN0Rq-/s400/072-1+-+Tierra+del+Fuego.JPG" border="0" /></a> Made it to Tierra del Fuego - Day 72<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWrtTpVgDfMUshQNUMA01r4g2d44D_nP44kJCEanHvgoY1CBSWY9AUtwNSn8SnQbqaUSSZO2xWHBgjvNuUDtonF2_JWbZaNrLqlsVmzRLUkZe8NDdVL9Fe0a7U7HabWg7BWVg7rX8rVEe/s1600-h/073-1+-+Porvenir.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198929899078506994" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWrtTpVgDfMUshQNUMA01r4g2d44D_nP44kJCEanHvgoY1CBSWY9AUtwNSn8SnQbqaUSSZO2xWHBgjvNuUDtonF2_JWbZaNrLqlsVmzRLUkZe8NDdVL9Fe0a7U7HabWg7BWVg7rX8rVEe/s400/073-1+-+Porvenir.JPG" border="0" /></a> Porvenir - 73<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJylm-M2_I9kgo4OYXoQMjfY56rF7LmWx9dv942fUt3pyu5i-k7flKfqO2pRLGTX6bLzYL0y2-4uEwqtjr74kklz4yLQJpVcHvigqh6IX0q4ZK7bqlz3HvrHw6eGg3q7Uk9cyESKvUWR_G/s1600-h/073-2+-+Dave+on+Strait.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198929903373474306" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJylm-M2_I9kgo4OYXoQMjfY56rF7LmWx9dv942fUt3pyu5i-k7flKfqO2pRLGTX6bLzYL0y2-4uEwqtjr74kklz4yLQJpVcHvigqh6IX0q4ZK7bqlz3HvrHw6eGg3q7Uk9cyESKvUWR_G/s400/073-2+-+Dave+on+Strait.JPG" border="0" /></a> Dave & Strait - 73<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9nTVKZAc707_gmPDcjPRWtO04Mlq6dCUoTH4k6YqweNad3KLUcU23u8wYPknJ40trTcG3bJ7FgL_XsExHwrAZIy4HJrt0g7hJoU-UtJdXzs_YEMgk8pTtpg7AHCTTpdcvdjdGP_99QY8M/s1600-h/073-3+-+Jumping+Guanaco.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198929345027725682" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9nTVKZAc707_gmPDcjPRWtO04Mlq6dCUoTH4k6YqweNad3KLUcU23u8wYPknJ40trTcG3bJ7FgL_XsExHwrAZIy4HJrt0g7hJoU-UtJdXzs_YEMgk8pTtpg7AHCTTpdcvdjdGP_99QY8M/s400/073-3+-+Jumping+Guanaco.JPG" border="0" /></a> Jumpin Guanaco - 73<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Jyt-I_VAsc-6zGsQp0eFubXOJCFP4Vcdu4ACcPncItfbx9LYTcfNmOoHzX-vLtuqWF2PIwSSY_UNls0Z0NVbvMuvRHiv05fyyhe4WS63iImpL-uxoDwKu3LgchjiqFrOalaPhPNiabO0/s1600-h/073-4+-+Jumping+Fish.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198929345027725698" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Jyt-I_VAsc-6zGsQp0eFubXOJCFP4Vcdu4ACcPncItfbx9LYTcfNmOoHzX-vLtuqWF2PIwSSY_UNls0Z0NVbvMuvRHiv05fyyhe4WS63iImpL-uxoDwKu3LgchjiqFrOalaPhPNiabO0/s400/073-4+-+Jumping+Fish.JPG" border="0" /></a> OK, sequence is wrong - but check out the jumping dolphin? Orca?<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7KaUGseqPas9taxvzICb4UpLs67CuyGUS-qigvepbw-3UfZn3saOmU0XhN7di1tTqTcARP7DegjV-0OAnZkxQskhmwIWYHTJmeav8IFmEcQjcdtgGPeuoLjj7GTyj-KzorlfTuL-jfHSL/s1600-h/073-4+-+Jumping+Fish+a.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198929349322693010" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7KaUGseqPas9taxvzICb4UpLs67CuyGUS-qigvepbw-3UfZn3saOmU0XhN7di1tTqTcARP7DegjV-0OAnZkxQskhmwIWYHTJmeav8IFmEcQjcdtgGPeuoLjj7GTyj-KzorlfTuL-jfHSL/s400/073-4+-+Jumping+Fish+a.JPG" border="0" /></a> Previous image w/o zoom - I really just pointed and shot and got lucky - didn't see the big mammal until I could zoom into picture<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilLsiOVPLkcWyFu-xJHGM910L3IrIeee22eS2r6Q5VYi-igFr1EEOBOh7V7PIl6sdaw1pIGPdyK8CMBPom0lSiLAlVv_6etPQlgBLyDrjkfpgnnya55eMxrrfHS2kl0xJTOo06mQRX7tfd/s1600-h/073-5+-+Strong+Wind.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198929349322693026" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilLsiOVPLkcWyFu-xJHGM910L3IrIeee22eS2r6Q5VYi-igFr1EEOBOh7V7PIl6sdaw1pIGPdyK8CMBPom0lSiLAlVv_6etPQlgBLyDrjkfpgnnya55eMxrrfHS2kl0xJTOo06mQRX7tfd/s400/073-5+-+Strong+Wind.JPG" border="0" /></a> Windy day - 73<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ2D4mPjla2fOe5cff47oH0LnxgzKZGy9_CegOSWYB4skyDh5cdkTH_emNEPRuqpgvMzjZ0ykAJqlCTn-byyON5dCJ_hZ_YHnbOhJ0ErAX8ZGQPZJptoosRNwcakm1EmFsHePHcuk2dcWF/s1600-h/073-6+-+Final+Border+Crossin.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198929353617660338" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ2D4mPjla2fOe5cff47oH0LnxgzKZGy9_CegOSWYB4skyDh5cdkTH_emNEPRuqpgvMzjZ0ykAJqlCTn-byyON5dCJ_hZ_YHnbOhJ0ErAX8ZGQPZJptoosRNwcakm1EmFsHePHcuk2dcWF/s400/073-6+-+Final+Border+Crossin.JPG" border="0" /></a> Made it to border w Joe and Dave - 73<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieve6TF7IsJePNWCnhgv5S6jFq4I053Z_QdZ8wTvfiyX-8HcttAEkF5-W9C54ne8RxhhX-LMRSkGzKcMWPfcstRnqUQPNkr1nqxJellxoeB-Dsjec9wI_R0bzh6Y4YGUO9iLnp5IOLr8f4/s1600-h/074-1+-+Launch+the+Planes.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198928382955051298" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieve6TF7IsJePNWCnhgv5S6jFq4I053Z_QdZ8wTvfiyX-8HcttAEkF5-W9C54ne8RxhhX-LMRSkGzKcMWPfcstRnqUQPNkr1nqxJellxoeB-Dsjec9wI_R0bzh6Y4YGUO9iLnp5IOLr8f4/s400/074-1+-+Launch+the+Planes.JPG" border="0" /></a> This is where the Falkland/Malvinas war started - Rio Grande - 74<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZDL_4vB2UKvYYKECL27NHkoiuFSDZyhlnZVElJHZB33qC-LOzQB01aEzvPg2wldal1OiBVyVFUF3flcB1PVQ5ta5FPln1B9wiuoKqrg7uAqBDyO7Bbz9sKIM-6b8UrIyGg4rp4hPvhkPY/s1600-h/075-1+Awesome+Hostal.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198928391544985906" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZDL_4vB2UKvYYKECL27NHkoiuFSDZyhlnZVElJHZB33qC-LOzQB01aEzvPg2wldal1OiBVyVFUF3flcB1PVQ5ta5FPln1B9wiuoKqrg7uAqBDyO7Bbz9sKIM-6b8UrIyGg4rp4hPvhkPY/s400/075-1+Awesome+Hostal.JPG" border="0" /></a> Awesome Hostal in Rio Grande - oldest hotel in town - 75<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtsGtIBGe5DJSMGdtNh03QpsHKCsgWmguqOqcM2NllAQussnN6wvgt4Qk88_CG7IaAhH_k0nXLHKXa0M0t6er4c3wWkn77NSP-2jQukcMspB6ysQG3-fyR55YP1WkMNq-mPzkTUcruRRi/s1600-h/075-2+-+Old+Bridge.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198928391544985922" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtsGtIBGe5DJSMGdtNh03QpsHKCsgWmguqOqcM2NllAQussnN6wvgt4Qk88_CG7IaAhH_k0nXLHKXa0M0t6er4c3wWkn77NSP-2jQukcMspB6ysQG3-fyR55YP1WkMNq-mPzkTUcruRRi/s400/075-2+-+Old+Bridge.JPG" border="0" /></a> Old Bridge - Rio Grande - 75<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgalTaUwqWk9JLZ6abnmkWT2fpK4SmttfxzfIirQQV1uQ6Bxpt7ldzcEbaxhaXDGqXrBGQMX5j-aZMm8rUf3kN_wCBSYq_sE21K8SP8KuMnAeAZF2z_ZrJakHCnjzMEasGBScvLwOlNA8vq/s1600-h/075-3+-+The+Atlantic.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198928395839953234" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgalTaUwqWk9JLZ6abnmkWT2fpK4SmttfxzfIirQQV1uQ6Bxpt7ldzcEbaxhaXDGqXrBGQMX5j-aZMm8rUf3kN_wCBSYq_sE21K8SP8KuMnAeAZF2z_ZrJakHCnjzMEasGBScvLwOlNA8vq/s400/075-3+-+The+Atlantic.JPG" border="0" /></a> The Atlantic - and a shell - 75<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgU9TFvQjosoQNzxjyrBz7s-j4EFuaS0z97-yZc9McML-4LpiPtcELqajmVLhjdFpn7sT8PxT2iDl30k4gIJCVYoUn52pPeQt0ZlfAilmHZPgcEN9xzSIHFSTUEqJKt-8JUhqHJzz-1jmQ/s1600-h/075-4+-+Old+Mans+Beard.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198928395839953250" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgU9TFvQjosoQNzxjyrBz7s-j4EFuaS0z97-yZc9McML-4LpiPtcELqajmVLhjdFpn7sT8PxT2iDl30k4gIJCVYoUn52pPeQt0ZlfAilmHZPgcEN9xzSIHFSTUEqJKt-8JUhqHJzz-1jmQ/s400/075-4+-+Old+Mans+Beard.JPG" border="0" /></a> Evening shot with old mans beard growing on the trees - 75<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgneGfVqrYvyFc6yQ7UmXJ7CJHUaFQleN0To1v730DS0CVtT7vxKc3G6LGmqCSGuaVMPf5cZdh05xZrv_KRM4LVpcSak2-koyD3gPGFo0Y_9yAXqFCGecchiC_LIVfG7Wgr8pB2f2Lv-bU1/s1600-h/076-1+-+Important+Argentine+Work.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198927863264008402" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgneGfVqrYvyFc6yQ7UmXJ7CJHUaFQleN0To1v730DS0CVtT7vxKc3G6LGmqCSGuaVMPf5cZdh05xZrv_KRM4LVpcSak2-koyD3gPGFo0Y_9yAXqFCGecchiC_LIVfG7Wgr8pB2f2Lv-bU1/s400/076-1+-+Important+Argentine+Work.JPG" border="0" /></a> Important Argentine job - putting up street signs - there are a lot of them - this hill ends at the top of the frame - day 76<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_a77t3TlGre3XlBC-SYvaIjV0Or9FsuSjxcUmBejslhSm8WXFNhEjOH-7RBw76DNG98v8uv4RGzsKxzZ4EPxiFy8g27i_Gwb1xC7ATsZOXKm8Wl8dGwslxWl5GihRTjkq35yM1NyloJ77/s1600-h/076-2+-+Lago+Fagnano.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198927871853943010" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_a77t3TlGre3XlBC-SYvaIjV0Or9FsuSjxcUmBejslhSm8WXFNhEjOH-7RBw76DNG98v8uv4RGzsKxzZ4EPxiFy8g27i_Gwb1xC7ATsZOXKm8Wl8dGwslxWl5GihRTjkq35yM1NyloJ77/s400/076-2+-+Lago+Fagnano.JPG" border="0" /></a> Beautiful lago - need to look that up - Day 76<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBlcO4LSMtndYaa52oYVgz3tXwzhCLJVi8hfw7Gru-p3z_m-e9PlfSdiLQJ_BlbjBxx7PVWSo3syzOT3AoeTWs6Tx51N-r4coSXOpU1r14gO0_tLw49QQaYbC0EoY6iCP-tx5CNmmx0_vB/s1600-h/076-3+-+3CV+Again.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198927871853943026" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBlcO4LSMtndYaa52oYVgz3tXwzhCLJVi8hfw7Gru-p3z_m-e9PlfSdiLQJ_BlbjBxx7PVWSo3syzOT3AoeTWs6Tx51N-r4coSXOpU1r14gO0_tLw49QQaYbC0EoY6iCP-tx5CNmmx0_vB/s400/076-3+-+3CV+Again.JPG" border="0" /></a> Finally caught up with the 2CV that we've met sporadically since Puerto Montt - Day 76<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-b14AUrZk1bf9_cw4hQUatcDv_HdlS7z9uAD2j77G2fen_Egwgzy0tUY_54EIF-N0KMeGYJkI8ldzrIRwZErflrJpQSeAeKfiAinhvElajVADgVR_9306N-HWWZAOsHM82koBSqRx9GF/s1600-h/076-4+-+3000+to+BA.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198927871853943042" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-b14AUrZk1bf9_cw4hQUatcDv_HdlS7z9uAD2j77G2fen_Egwgzy0tUY_54EIF-N0KMeGYJkI8ldzrIRwZErflrJpQSeAeKfiAinhvElajVADgVR_9306N-HWWZAOsHM82koBSqRx9GF/s400/076-4+-+3000+to+BA.JPG" border="0" /></a> 3000km from Buenos Aires on Ruta 3 - day 76<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYxVa54hXNAwppY8zj64TjzWHpfN9eVg9zjEI4yoRztG15-6iwgKJYoXBuRkydSi6p2i9LwQK3hvERNl1soxsoVGvNbCkGRq66R6q4b6U-0xu4hjGz2uFcMMXk6WGq7m0Gsv9E2mtExZCF/s1600-h/076-4b+-+Paso+Garibaldi.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198927876148910354" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYxVa54hXNAwppY8zj64TjzWHpfN9eVg9zjEI4yoRztG15-6iwgKJYoXBuRkydSi6p2i9LwQK3hvERNl1soxsoVGvNbCkGRq66R6q4b6U-0xu4hjGz2uFcMMXk6WGq7m0Gsv9E2mtExZCF/s400/076-4b+-+Paso+Garibaldi.JPG" border="0" /></a> Paso Garibaldi - 76<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0oi-BBQNPz10okjB9HRsv6hWjPQAEqNkTJ9nm08cZFMAmPD8QCpQ6Kll-AyBDOOUHm7oeZpumL5N0kLDTzTcqxdr84GSfYVSTl1Ir53FMcNKu0YUZRYK8t7QgkimFC0SyWvmuUT6u_LJP/s1600-h/076-5+-+First+View+of+Ushuaia.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198927292033357954" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0oi-BBQNPz10okjB9HRsv6hWjPQAEqNkTJ9nm08cZFMAmPD8QCpQ6Kll-AyBDOOUHm7oeZpumL5N0kLDTzTcqxdr84GSfYVSTl1Ir53FMcNKu0YUZRYK8t7QgkimFC0SyWvmuUT6u_LJP/s400/076-5+-+First+View+of+Ushuaia.JPG" border="0" /></a> We made it - Ushuaia - 76<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDfqhr4KpGNbI1VEsS_asxlg41OtlQhGJ-P6ZdICa39PHjaYQ6FHLBYFFupNRyUxPVBrQhyphenhyphen3Q69gyzigUQc1zKsAwd3bvFaxerjezwdwQXbXW5sCgcEowIqNptbR9bAec5A96h1VMJBStj/s1600-h/076-6+-+Made+It.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198927296328325266" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDfqhr4KpGNbI1VEsS_asxlg41OtlQhGJ-P6ZdICa39PHjaYQ6FHLBYFFupNRyUxPVBrQhyphenhyphen3Q69gyzigUQc1zKsAwd3bvFaxerjezwdwQXbXW5sCgcEowIqNptbR9bAec5A96h1VMJBStj/s400/076-6+-+Made+It.JPG" border="0" /></a> This is it - 76<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaFtiUlImB6YTlvLvRy3r5evEIMCeuohufhJ9lkt-nas-sY4lJ5eP8YIUeXIVi2ZaSEItQR_WHXC86E2lT8lMHZjBdWxcTNA3JB0FXAphp7T3R9SujirRzRmQJma5zjzCmB-ceZs864z-b/s1600-h/076-7+-+For+Fritz.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198927300623292578" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaFtiUlImB6YTlvLvRy3r5evEIMCeuohufhJ9lkt-nas-sY4lJ5eP8YIUeXIVi2ZaSEItQR_WHXC86E2lT8lMHZjBdWxcTNA3JB0FXAphp7T3R9SujirRzRmQJma5zjzCmB-ceZs864z-b/s400/076-7+-+For+Fritz.JPG" border="0" /></a> For Fritz - southernmost ski resort in the World - 76<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHefFQyxHkM3MLkLKzIcRIq0bZ11a9poh0GxTmduEyDuycnGwhdftUbqyynnJ5DxRbJH-MUA2LAQOLV8kUntJNUnxDfSjaSIbxLB4OVpWI8ooFDapxyCIxjW2szW6-impPbS9nqC95UHzV/s1600-h/076-8+-+Local+Homeless+Penguin.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198927300623292594" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHefFQyxHkM3MLkLKzIcRIq0bZ11a9poh0GxTmduEyDuycnGwhdftUbqyynnJ5DxRbJH-MUA2LAQOLV8kUntJNUnxDfSjaSIbxLB4OVpWI8ooFDapxyCIxjW2szW6-impPbS9nqC95UHzV/s400/076-8+-+Local+Homeless+Penguin.JPG" border="0" /></a> Homeless penguins - 76<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUImA9spk1yN-Kt2WmrfxyCZPuFhoe2RGllyx9xRWx2PzrJ8j0Ti-McY0hXNKkGpQ-F4J-udIdVb-rD5O-E_yOjLRih66FXgWqcs2LKOH4JQqs6F63uJk_JMRzp0wDuqYTq2RVl9ORClca/s1600-h/077-1+-+Ushuaia+in+the+evening.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198927304918259906" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUImA9spk1yN-Kt2WmrfxyCZPuFhoe2RGllyx9xRWx2PzrJ8j0Ti-McY0hXNKkGpQ-F4J-udIdVb-rD5O-E_yOjLRih66FXgWqcs2LKOH4JQqs6F63uJk_JMRzp0wDuqYTq2RVl9ORClca/s400/077-1+-+Ushuaia+in+the+evening.JPG" border="0" /></a> Ushuaia from above - 77<br /><br /><div>WEEK 11<br />Day 71 - March 22*****************<br /><br />Didn't quite make it to Punta Arenas in 2 days, but we did manage to have an easy go of things today - in about 90min we were rolling into town. The weather turned out much better than expected - each day has been a couple degrees warmer since we left Puerto Natales. Today was the best yet - winds are moderate and it's mostly sunny, maybe 17C, just a pleasant fall day. Not sure when we mark the equinox, but it should be around now, so we're entering autumn and almost all of you are entering spring. Lucky.<br /><br />Turns out there's still another 500km to go, a good chunk of which is gravel again, so we're not just going to make it to Ushuaia in a day or two. Passed 4000km today so it looks like I'll be near 4600 before this major part of the trip is over.<br /><br />Anyway, Punta Arenas is probably the nicest city I've seen so far - the main street into town (Bulnes) is a parkway with little parks and sculpture gardens in the middle, as you get into town the buildings get bigger and a mix of various styles (the first fort went up here in the late 1840's), and then there's the main square with this neat pavillion reminding me of a park in the UK or France. Now it's the tourist info center complete with free WiFi.<br /><br />And if you need anything, this place has got tons of shops and malls, hypermarkets, a duty free zone, what seems like a lot for a city of around 130k. Surprisingly a lot is even open on Easter.<br /><br />I pick up a new derailleur to replace my aging and loose one; rather pricey at around $70, but you can't really afford to comparison shop when travelling in remote areas.<br /><br />Lunch is at Dino's pizza - nice place. And after a bit of food shopping it's off to see Sofia's family. Her mom is on the "warm shower's list" and has graciously offered to host us for the night - even include us for Easter.<br /><br />So we spend the evening showing pictures, watching movies, and catching up on a few chores.<br /><br />DAY 72 - Easter sunday**************<br />A rather chaotic day as it turns out. Hope those of you who celebrate are enjoying it with family and friends.<br /><br />In our case, after a lazy morning - didn't get up until around 10 - things turn a bit unclear. During laundry I mention a possible fix for a home improvement task and we head off to the local building center which unfortunately doesn't actually clarify anything (some building materials/supplies are different here), then it's on to the hypermarket next door for some last minute food shopping but time is running out for our ferry. There's none scheduled for tomorrow and the weather is supposed to turn worse, so we'd still like to get out on the 3:30 today. In the end, it's a mad dash of wolfing down lunch, throwing clothes together, and baling the whole load to the bikes followed by a high-speed ride through a drizzling Punta Arenas to the ferry.<br /><br />We get there 5 minutes to departure (30 recommended), and, well, I'm caught up. I'm currently writing this from a seat on the ferry looking out at grey skies and water in all directions as we cross the Straits of Magellan heading for Tierra del Fuego. Tomorrow begins the last big section of this part of the trip. But first a night in Porvenir...<br /><br />[Porvenir is a tiny, windy outpost on the Straits of Magellan. Not exactly a tourist resort, but it has a few Hostels and Hotels - generally fairly expensive. We end up at the Hostal Kawi after spending some time looking around town and talking to the police - no tourist info here]<br /><br />Many thanks to Sofia and the Mardonez family for the kind hospitality. Really sorry about the chaos, the home improvement confusion, and the mad dash at the end. I hope the Easter meal went well! Thanks for everything.<br /><br />Day 73 - Hostal Kawi to San Sebastian:<br />After a standard breakfast of meat, butter, bread, and jam, things were looking a bit bleak - dark clouds and rain. But given the wind here, that can change in minutes and so it did. The ground was wet as we set out, but it would be the only sign of rain all day. We basically had the perfect cycling day - around 15C, slightly cloudy skies, moderate to strong tailwinds (40-50 km/h + gusts) almost all day, and amazing scenery all around - saw a few dolphins, guanaco, flamingos, and assorted other sea birds. Just a great day.<br /><br />From Porvenir, the road hugs the coast - the first stretch reminds me of the Welsh coast near Svemir's brother's place, some cliffs and low vegetation, but that's where the similarities end. Just a single road around here for miles and miles and miles. To be fair, we did cross a couple of roads in the course of 150km, but there's really only a couple roads that go anywhere on this island. The only paved highway is in Argentina - once we get to San Sebastian.<br /><br />As we were cycling, Dave noticed a few fish jumping out of the water, although they appeared to be big - maybe dolphins or some other large mammal. We made our way to the coast for a better picture, but then they vanished again.<br /><br />Otherwise the coast is punctuated with small, beached vessels and the odd fishing shack. Few souls in sight. The road continues to hug the coast and at first it's quite hilly, but later on it flattens out as well and we just fly. A 50km/h tailwind is just amazing. Fortunately the gravel was in pretty decent shape so we just let it roll - some flat stretches we were pedaling at around 50, while on the downhills we neared 70 (Dave hit 71). That's really fast for gravel. Fortunately (well, it would've been interesting), the forecasted 100km/h winds didn't materialize, so this isn't the highest wind speed we've had, but it is the most unrelenting. A constant force from the West - here's a sample of it's effects on vegetation and Dave:<br /><br />Well, I suppose the wind is to be expected, everybody mentions it. Surprising for me is the volume of traffic - just a constant barrage of vehicles, often platoons of 4-6 Argentinian cars zooming past us. Not sure where they're all headed, but a good guess would be Punta Arenas with it's Duty Free zone - an oddity I can't quite figure out. Plus the most direct road from the mainland to Argentinian Tierra del Fuego also leads through Chile. Still, the volume of traffic on this almost one-lane gravel road near the end of the world is amazing, probably the busiest border crossing we've seen including the paved one near Villa Angostura in week 4. Even on the road to Punta Arenas, a good portion of the vehicles were bearing Argentinian plates.<br /><br />So just a great ride. The border is near the end of the day and things go smoothly, although the road deteriorates somewhat in no-mans-land. I almost put the bike down and my chain falls off, so I arrive at the Argentine check-point with black fingers. That and Dave's flat are the only real incidents today. Once through the Argentine checkpoint, pavimento returns - Ruta 3 now and only 280km left for Ushuaia. Town is sparse, though there is a somewhat pricey hotel. Luckily the cafe owner next door lets us crash on their floor so after some Milanesas and fish, we're now spreading out on the floor of Cafe Albatross in San Sebastian, Argentina, gradually approaching La Fin del Mundo...<br /><br />Day 74 - San Seb to Rio Grande<br />Definitely one of the more interesting overnights of the trip to date. We spend the night sprawled out on the floor of an ex-gas-station, semi-cafe, semi-diner, small mini-market. Not quite sure what it's supposed to be, and can't quite figure out how they make enough money, although our dinner was certainly expensive enough. But then we also got a nice hot shower and a place to sleep thrown in for free, so all in all a really good deal.<br /><br />But also more than a bit surreal - there was this older gentleman with a guitar and a parakeet he was practically nursing and a matress he unfolded and moved to whereever he was sleeping, a husband & wife (we assume) & 2 children, plus another younger man - perhaps the wife's brother. Just a bit odd. And the building seemed partially finished - lots of open junction boxes & wires everywhere. When I�plugged in my laptop yesterday I got a really big spark and the lights went out. And another spark when the circuit breaker was reset with nothing plugged in. "Don't use that outlet".<br /><br />So anyway, we pack up and eat fairly quickly and are soon on our way again. Today will be a short one. Not very hilly and a pretty decent, slightly cross but mostly tail wind. By 2pm we're almost at town so Dave & I stop at a museum at an old mission with quite a few pictures of the original inhabitants, largely wiped out by European settlement and disease in the late 19th early 20th century. Joe makes it to town first and it turns out to be a really big place complete with 2 Carre-Fours, lots and lots of everything. Tierra del Fuego has 2 major cities - Rio Grande the more industrial one, now servicing quite a petroleum based economy, and Ushuaia - the tourist and port town at the end of the road. Both are around 50k and strung along this single paved road running from San Sebastian to Ushuaia. All land traffic has to cross into Chile and onto gravel - a bit of an odd arrangment at the end of the world, but various conflicts between Argentina and Chile have left it this way.<br /><br />At first we consider heading out of town, but after stopping by the local hostel - Hotel Argentino, we decide it's the place for us. WiFi, an amazing owner/hostess, just a fun place to spend the night plus we can camp for only 10 pesos. So we manage to cook quite a feast and also get more pictures and blog posted.<br /><br />My knee has been bothering me for the past few days, and today was no exception, although what started as a bit of a sharp pain on the gravel road a few days ago is now definitely muted - just reminding me it's there. Nothing overpowering - I get these from time to time on big rides and they seem to work their way through the system. By and large, cycling is fairly gentle on the knees (compared to, say, running), but it's pretty rare to go for months without at least some pain. Certainly throwing in some heavy-duty trekking into the mix may also play a part.<br /><br /> Day 75***********<br /><br />We get off to a good start. Unfortunatetly, Rio Grande only has a rickety old wooden bridge in town which the owner of the hostel assures me leads nowhere - the only way onward is along the river for about 12km right into the wind, then about a 150deg. turn to the left and more or less back again. At least this turns the winds around and for the rest of the day things are manageable. The original bridge at this site is a local landmark - built about 80 years ago when Ushuaia was still a penal colony and this was primarily grazing country.<br /><br />Past the bridge you head back towards the Atlantic where we finally have a nice, Atlantic shore lunch - probably our last view of this ocean as we'll be heading north much close to the other side. Quite a scenic little shore with an amazingly calm sea.<br /><br />The road is mostly slightly rolling hills and pasture, bogs, and an increasing proportion of forest. By evening we make it to Tolhuin - a little tourist outpost for people looking to fish on the massive lago ?. Joe and I opt to stay at the local hospedaje while Dave opts for toll-free-camping on the outskirts of town. I figure the warm night will continue to do my knee good. It's been ok for the most part, but we're doing over 100km every day and I notice them.<br /><br />Town isn't much, but it has a few supermarkets, restaurants, and a gas station. We really don't get to appreciate it much by daylight and the road is more of a bypass.<br /><br />Day 76**************<br />So the next day we get an earlier start and are soon along the banks of Lago ?. Quite an impressive lake with a southern edge that has bigger and bigger mountains. Eventually the road turns south as we head for our final pass of this leg of the journey - Paso Garibaldi. The landscape is a study in contrast to a few days ago on this giant island - we went from a 150km day of high tailwinds across grasslands on a mostly level gravel road to a mountain pass and ski resorts. The landscape here is impressive with the Beagle channel appearing as we come out of the pass and Chile and even more, much smaller islands to the south. Ushuaia isn't the most southerly town in the world - there are a handful of both Argentine and Chilean setllements further south with Puerto Williams Chile's claim to maximum "southernness".<br /><br />But as far as we're concerned, at around 5pm on March 27th, Joe Gromala, David McGovern, and Markus Szillat completed our 2 1/2 month journey from Mendoza to Ushuaia - also known as part 1. There will be a few changes, but for now all is well as we enter "The Southernmost City in the World".<br /><br />After passing the big sign, the actual road into town is amazingly industrial - lots of big container storage facilities - I have no idea where all these containers are heading. 2 towns of maybe 50k each don't seem like they would need such a large contingent of them, and if you want to go anywhere else you need to go by sea again. Perhaps it's some type of trans-shipment terminal for smaller destinations along both coasts.<br /><br />We continue into the main, tourist part of town - maybe 50 square blocks packed with hostels, hotels, camping good stores, t-shirt and other memorobilia, and bars, clubs, well, everything you need at the end of the world. The city has mushroomed from a penal colony to a tiny outpost of around 7k as recently as around 1980. Now it serves the rapidly growing Antarctic tourism industry. But there will be no trip for me - the last tourist voyage to the final continent left yesterday, March 26. Oh well, maybe next time.<br /><br />We find a hostel and small bar serving the local microbrew - Beagle - and toast the completion of stage 1. For me, it's been 4500km to this spot on the globe and I think for all of us, an amazing couple of months.<br /><br />Day 77********************<br />Our first day at the end of the world. We mostly spend it on errands - getting bus fares, airfares, schedules, verfying that there really are no more trips to Antarctica, and just bumming around town. We bump into Laura - the other American staying at our hostel, but she's decided to move to another, bigger locale.<br /><br />Today is the last day of our group of 3.<br />Between Joe and Dave & myself, there's been an increasing amount of friction over the past month or so, so this is the end of the road. Dave and I have decided to move on by a different route and I think in some way we're all a bit relieved to be without the pressure of close, sometimes uncomfortable quarters. On the other hand, we have an amazing dinner with Laura and Jordan, another American from the other hostel. Down here, a good meal generally includes mass quantities of meat, and this certainly doesn't disappoint.<br /><br />Despite the many different ways by how we've come together here at the end of the world, we seem to be fairly kindred spirits. Laura guides multi-week canoe adventures in the Arctic and is about to be an MD - she will soon be returning to the States to start her final year of medical school and figure out her residency. But in the meantime, she took a year off and headed to Peru to work as a doctor in some very remote settings as well as in Cusco. Jordan works in emergency logistics (hope I'm getting this right). When there's a disaster, he's one of the folks who's planned and prepared for this. He's between positions at a hospital in Portland and his next appointment: logistics for a Medicins Sans Frontieres supported hospital in Port Harecourt, Nigeria. He'll be there in just over a weeks time and decided to see the end of the world in the meantime - he did manage to get a trip to Antarctica from which he's just returned. He's also explored just about everything around Ushuaia. His trip is just winding down, but we have a great time at a local Parilla (grilled meat) joint talking about past and future adventures.</div></div></div></div></div>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-73439263519328580292008-04-30T14:27:00.000-07:002008-05-10T08:36:04.107-07:00Week 10 - Leaving Los TorresOK, having difficulties cutting and pasting in this internet cafe, so all the pictures are up front in somewhat reverse chronological order. Sorry - will try to fix when I have a decent wifi connection.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipMDPElP_6ZdOiCG0FlxgKY3SZPWwiPzjCxX_8YUKu6Krbv39fBtlypDV1_64s8JfEzE2d_Y2IELlK3ojBrIXaI-dxfxAnzLZQDKCkDl2ikrzZK-XURgaoEQE-yvDX0tdw7JhLdalNVu75/s1600-h/070-5+-+Ducks.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198770877914372210" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipMDPElP_6ZdOiCG0FlxgKY3SZPWwiPzjCxX_8YUKu6Krbv39fBtlypDV1_64s8JfEzE2d_Y2IELlK3ojBrIXaI-dxfxAnzLZQDKCkDl2ikrzZK-XURgaoEQE-yvDX0tdw7JhLdalNVu75/s400/070-5+-+Ducks.JPG" border="0" /></a> A few birds on Day 70<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNbZKsn9Ta1JuLR68m9SNBCLDldnaXZJkIPfngJfI85QSEd9a1RuuF6WVSrxkm2EdXkdGginDydag1xBWbkyY5b5i0E_IsDjLLfFrXrbyMo2OA0YaLyyuCHkw4vPd9V7Wrjltln46DlNm4/s1600-h/069+-+although+better+on+St+Pats+-+no+town"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769701093333026" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNbZKsn9Ta1JuLR68m9SNBCLDldnaXZJkIPfngJfI85QSEd9a1RuuF6WVSrxkm2EdXkdGginDydag1xBWbkyY5b5i0E_IsDjLLfFrXrbyMo2OA0YaLyyuCHkw4vPd9V7Wrjltln46DlNm4/s400/069+-+although+better+on+St+Pats+-+no+town%27s+complete+without+one.JPG" border="0" /></a> Site of St. Pat's Day inebriation - yeah that's a Guiness logo here in Puerto Natales in far southern Chile<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrFWPJYuBHxQ2TMNkXeN1a0ZTlPTsR2dU41239kmQjOJHRBVvh3KXBgTR05qTvmeFuzMOzg5V3PKc4ZmQq1ckKm-lLDGl9peOEPgXtFCV_lnJsKV9PuMjAvp2ZmxZMPlnjnVOirTCy3u6C/s1600-h/069+-+Drop+in,+stay+awhile.JPG"></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO5wbOKLquxzLg_5K8vMaJt6fYPfXB9Rg0aJU6Tf5GugyrIi0LIk2K4udYPxHqyEDrWRPXtsd_DJ9DPB0Ps95uBGa_A7uWJ8rBIwIxKcENWw_-sfwnX7V6H8cRq5jHaa8lzO534flYbqyj/s1600-h/070-2+-+Sculpture.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769709683267650" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO5wbOKLquxzLg_5K8vMaJt6fYPfXB9Rg0aJU6Tf5GugyrIi0LIk2K4udYPxHqyEDrWRPXtsd_DJ9DPB0Ps95uBGa_A7uWJ8rBIwIxKcENWw_-sfwnX7V6H8cRq5jHaa8lzO534flYbqyj/s400/070-2+-+Sculpture.JPG" border="0" /></a> Outdoor sculpture on road to Punta Arenas - Day 70<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG5_EDLZcXCl2aT2Ugv1g1fhUOdVyWnGTBhYcysgw9H0qz30DIJYmttjiiL86GfwDxtl0rSzrJMoYomsF8bA3Mm4aLrfUAGqzkffaglMssWEs7UwIjHiNCmZFgFD_N3Sy874vL24OuLAPz/s1600-h/070-3+-+First+sign+of+things+to+come.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769709683267666" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG5_EDLZcXCl2aT2Ugv1g1fhUOdVyWnGTBhYcysgw9H0qz30DIJYmttjiiL86GfwDxtl0rSzrJMoYomsF8bA3Mm4aLrfUAGqzkffaglMssWEs7UwIjHiNCmZFgFD_N3Sy874vL24OuLAPz/s400/070-3+-+First+sign+of+things+to+come.JPG" border="0" /></a> First sign of Tierra del Fuego - Day 70<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtQPdNDXatbFDzfzaRnhV_kmAVtB2K3CFHh_fuhgD5WRChMY6jYpyIjGeOTxN00H2befQzuGPANvDVEB3sZ8JDTVKSyRW9xp0_EGolyerrXi-_AsZI_RjEATCJDHeZgA81aiYn7LosPCte/s1600-h/070-4+-+Property+For+Sale.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769713978234978" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtQPdNDXatbFDzfzaRnhV_kmAVtB2K3CFHh_fuhgD5WRChMY6jYpyIjGeOTxN00H2befQzuGPANvDVEB3sZ8JDTVKSyRW9xp0_EGolyerrXi-_AsZI_RjEATCJDHeZgA81aiYn7LosPCte/s400/070-4+-+Property+For+Sale.JPG" border="0" /></a> Minefield - Day 69<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy_YgpJ6PJHp0EmH7sb4dwcdqN5HzUUpvK4iz2vAisgvY2b7-xHYHvR0B3hd1yKSujSmYrc1YyXCBzA3w5aRWtmcqn7CoHaxCx0cbkmemh-n3yqv7ul67vA_dIvuhNmouhoHPcRgA3lnVZ/s1600-h/065-2+-+Hotel+at+Waterfall.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769439100327890" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy_YgpJ6PJHp0EmH7sb4dwcdqN5HzUUpvK4iz2vAisgvY2b7-xHYHvR0B3hd1yKSujSmYrc1YyXCBzA3w5aRWtmcqn7CoHaxCx0cbkmemh-n3yqv7ul67vA_dIvuhNmouhoHPcRgA3lnVZ/s400/065-2+-+Hotel+at+Waterfall.JPG" border="0" /></a> Waterfall hotel in Torres - Day 65<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRQsjLcWdmG5qmHfUduDn6J8bdBAw5-jTC4EfgCBjpYRsSrNehWE6jKWm7B_gcOszMk7U8mVir1FzGU3D3o1hCk6o_5l4a2yyyHvVJbrFUmGqNfOf5-wW90G_vKFoY7ZNpC41Wrd7x8h8f/s1600-h/065-3+-+Puerto+Natales.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769443395295202" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRQsjLcWdmG5qmHfUduDn6J8bdBAw5-jTC4EfgCBjpYRsSrNehWE6jKWm7B_gcOszMk7U8mVir1FzGU3D3o1hCk6o_5l4a2yyyHvVJbrFUmGqNfOf5-wW90G_vKFoY7ZNpC41Wrd7x8h8f/s400/065-3+-+Puerto+Natales.JPG" border="0" /></a> Waterfront Puerto Natales - Day 69<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IHVBN_yGXrzOLrMhxAFRyv5w9QI6DA9k55FYr6joNGuiBKsTyYdQsiObjrSvQYmqDgGTc0_9gIZ7Hqcpw5bn1ojs53DZNeqxifoZmZnJ7DWFLpfLVqDDna8hUyRv6s0fm-rNP-kDWfMU/s1600-h/069-3+-+Morre+Chico.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769443395295218" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IHVBN_yGXrzOLrMhxAFRyv5w9QI6DA9k55FYr6joNGuiBKsTyYdQsiObjrSvQYmqDgGTc0_9gIZ7Hqcpw5bn1ojs53DZNeqxifoZmZnJ7DWFLpfLVqDDna8hUyRv6s0fm-rNP-kDWfMU/s400/069-3+-+Morre+Chico.JPG" border="0" /></a> Morre Chico - Day 69<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilI0mQwgExmimhA1PL1ut7Yy-q1ITdbRIkd2U-ozUeq-evz5HBMOP345l6GisiOS62WHwbsbaDMCEFOe81LZ0l7ENbRxKYjbiGFK0b258pesdueiOQigCJiHhEmuAe1C3Q_AjsO6O93qhZ/s1600-h/069-4+-+Moonrise+in+Morre+Chico.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769447690262530" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilI0mQwgExmimhA1PL1ut7Yy-q1ITdbRIkd2U-ozUeq-evz5HBMOP345l6GisiOS62WHwbsbaDMCEFOe81LZ0l7ENbRxKYjbiGFK0b258pesdueiOQigCJiHhEmuAe1C3Q_AjsO6O93qhZ/s400/069-4+-+Moonrise+in+Morre+Chico.JPG" border="0" /></a> Moonrise Morre Chico - Day 69<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSVul-TfZUxwxOGTrVdVRsgYvGuxs9WaWfVjN7XUaDmzgA0blFdaFFKuVfSpjOUFgFvHScW-bDw_2OKRG5vHVhY_kJyeHUPbl1iFlmzIoFPPOLRUhJ9a4xmXg3GAn9F3vPoSaNDJjHgCR/s1600-h/069-5+-+Nice+Clouds+plus+Accommodation.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769447690262546" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSVul-TfZUxwxOGTrVdVRsgYvGuxs9WaWfVjN7XUaDmzgA0blFdaFFKuVfSpjOUFgFvHScW-bDw_2OKRG5vHVhY_kJyeHUPbl1iFlmzIoFPPOLRUhJ9a4xmXg3GAn9F3vPoSaNDJjHgCR/s400/069-5+-+Nice+Clouds+plus+Accommodation.JPG" border="0" /></a> Neat clouds and our home for the night - Morre Chico Day 69<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPCStP0xL0-iIKjmTGcYGbGGpnTOEBrg4C7BQNw2q2DBt-iO3-0sHzngr_3DuySehQd4KE00JaEGJoIKa4PRCCweJVZ1_f990bYapZIgqDrkZq2-YsqLGx7fSmGpI4-mKOaJeNSY2E1YR8/s1600-h/064-6+-+That+CV2+Again.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769069733140354" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPCStP0xL0-iIKjmTGcYGbGGpnTOEBrg4C7BQNw2q2DBt-iO3-0sHzngr_3DuySehQd4KE00JaEGJoIKa4PRCCweJVZ1_f990bYapZIgqDrkZq2-YsqLGx7fSmGpI4-mKOaJeNSY2E1YR8/s400/064-6+-+That+CV2+Again.JPG" border="0" /></a> That CV2 again - Day 64 in TdP<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdx4EduHd5btcF6GUAgq_UFzN5yN8Ce-L5_c6ja1R2kOt4DtkpNbuz_THPFNycj2gebuz4bOntViKyTq_BEU9GRx25PGAhX3Xjk57ObcRTC8Jgrc1pOMIdRRuEnPsyAyYnPcB7f8rIDdXs/s1600-h/064-7+-+The+Lovely+Ladies+at+Camping+Los+Torres+-+Sofia+in+middle.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769074028107666" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdx4EduHd5btcF6GUAgq_UFzN5yN8Ce-L5_c6ja1R2kOt4DtkpNbuz_THPFNycj2gebuz4bOntViKyTq_BEU9GRx25PGAhX3Xjk57ObcRTC8Jgrc1pOMIdRRuEnPsyAyYnPcB7f8rIDdXs/s400/064-7+-+The+Lovely+Ladies+at+Camping+Los+Torres+-+Sofia+in+middle.JPG" border="0" /></a> The lovely ladies at TdP Campgroud/Hostel - Sofia is in the middle - Day 64<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmlHfEAgdc1oBHjBtDOQLUbC8y5RNC7jXwnTbuy9KRucQrQ5Y_tUw03g9Gp5at7v2H2AV5uJpxvW7N8SCk01XJlKTyOOeBUDsuYddlhF7gwURJ146UFPUzgFOY2ttX2yACbzVUBT0AjFd0/s1600-h/064-8+-+Evening+Cloud+on+Mountain.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769074028107682" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmlHfEAgdc1oBHjBtDOQLUbC8y5RNC7jXwnTbuy9KRucQrQ5Y_tUw03g9Gp5at7v2H2AV5uJpxvW7N8SCk01XJlKTyOOeBUDsuYddlhF7gwURJ146UFPUzgFOY2ttX2yACbzVUBT0AjFd0/s400/064-8+-+Evening+Cloud+on+Mountain.JPG" border="0" /></a> Neat clouds on the mountains TdP - day 64<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh84pMbjPJnvi0N9TwjIHijzWotzuj_o3c-RGdhzswlVGg4QiC8xcsByeX9GoZ2Qh-exTH7bAfvkv13mAsYtwRB6aWj2_FG-AsKH4rrOQ1mEb9_NNBzHtxHcu26BJlh5iolf12rJQ7wbKmF/s1600-h/064-9+-+Moonrise.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769078323074994" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh84pMbjPJnvi0N9TwjIHijzWotzuj_o3c-RGdhzswlVGg4QiC8xcsByeX9GoZ2Qh-exTH7bAfvkv13mAsYtwRB6aWj2_FG-AsKH4rrOQ1mEb9_NNBzHtxHcu26BJlh5iolf12rJQ7wbKmF/s400/064-9+-+Moonrise.JPG" border="0" /></a> Moonrise in TdP - Day 64<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk9a2bh_l9oJLU7ffcwGeQYuN4hQ_3RgToH0yE7TOwxWvDP4-lnbzu3oBp1VlKJMbHzcmpK7LR7SMLBRSasRdc13yNt3yGgny9NLDR8w0_Hu65JAEtPMM_NPVPMmfYa8vYtEtPgMMGBzFy/s1600-h/065-1+-+Final+view+of+Torres.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198769082618042306" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk9a2bh_l9oJLU7ffcwGeQYuN4hQ_3RgToH0yE7TOwxWvDP4-lnbzu3oBp1VlKJMbHzcmpK7LR7SMLBRSasRdc13yNt3yGgny9NLDR8w0_Hu65JAEtPMM_NPVPMmfYa8vYtEtPgMMGBzFy/s400/065-1+-+Final+view+of+Torres.JPG" border="0" /></a> Final View - day 65<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdBLxjBZ3fwEQHLTf51b0RgG9ACnSrqumUpgt4F1T2r3PNyS1-WfIL8e1wQlrsqgdy7eUZGbrByRlnXXtDcvpsa-7e_oKLjzgWlxIV8EAY2PS3t-fpyGRyFCH5bhhwaSV926W_ZYM2k-zX/s1600-h/064-1+-+Getting+to+Torres.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198768223624582962" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdBLxjBZ3fwEQHLTf51b0RgG9ACnSrqumUpgt4F1T2r3PNyS1-WfIL8e1wQlrsqgdy7eUZGbrByRlnXXtDcvpsa-7e_oKLjzgWlxIV8EAY2PS3t-fpyGRyFCH5bhhwaSV926W_ZYM2k-zX/s400/064-1+-+Getting+to+Torres.jpg" border="0" /></a> More Torres - Day 64<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfmbu3SDUWMXIX_dvnVISV9aIHe74NsnA3_cdax4kNuvYoZBzESyG7Ih_ulA7T2cY8h6kbpEh7zu1-JKE1Ishtt2VAK-QUNkuZbyseSstSGDie4VQszOPTWnypuHCxh9c1yCwk840ITgl3/s1600-h/064-2+-+Made+it+to+Torres.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198768227919550274" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfmbu3SDUWMXIX_dvnVISV9aIHe74NsnA3_cdax4kNuvYoZBzESyG7Ih_ulA7T2cY8h6kbpEh7zu1-JKE1Ishtt2VAK-QUNkuZbyseSstSGDie4VQszOPTWnypuHCxh9c1yCwk840ITgl3/s400/064-2+-+Made+it+to+Torres.JPG" border="0" /></a> Me and the Torres - Day 64<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ0OhxYZmRFiwVIEsHG40OH-2-FfSIkkK5azv9MF_p6b04szV7paatLklYlzR3JQ9HC9Zj2TA0NMvp30oIGFaLzyfosI1B3rQYGcKQYQ2aJCWXnjKUurrRfI43wfNGVz6K7Nb86hGXmqRC/s1600-h/064-3+-+The+Central+Torres.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198768227919550290" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ0OhxYZmRFiwVIEsHG40OH-2-FfSIkkK5azv9MF_p6b04szV7paatLklYlzR3JQ9HC9Zj2TA0NMvp30oIGFaLzyfosI1B3rQYGcKQYQ2aJCWXnjKUurrRfI43wfNGVz6K7Nb86hGXmqRC/s400/064-3+-+The+Central+Torres.JPG" border="0" /></a> - The Central Torres - Day 64<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3TFarpCjj9UWM6lod-yvRxUKzLMIf8L7x2js1M6t_U-ycsSiCnrim3QJ3SOpFl9ZHHWy2CHCrzvS0gy9s0kvzPOtmI4hiSX5-Smqv5VfATWL1Af6WngY0rfhMi4vW-_JubYNv9eV13kUs/s1600-h/064-4+-+Reflections+on+Torres.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198768232214517602" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3TFarpCjj9UWM6lod-yvRxUKzLMIf8L7x2js1M6t_U-ycsSiCnrim3QJ3SOpFl9ZHHWy2CHCrzvS0gy9s0kvzPOtmI4hiSX5-Smqv5VfATWL1Af6WngY0rfhMi4vW-_JubYNv9eV13kUs/s400/064-4+-+Reflections+on+Torres.JPG" border="0" /></a> Reflections on Torres - Day 64<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmuPuWp3GMkZzafki-lPFWyPwrXUAnyNZ8zK4R-shIrqP07OtSoXeE3yQt62aLsS2Q0kuN4077idrzsyhIaIvKgYnExIFyaN0n3fEEjBoqNtbmAHSNiUXXc-b6M0aVbBBIwbbBKPDotOq/s1600-h/064-5+-+Path+to+Torres.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198768232214517618" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmuPuWp3GMkZzafki-lPFWyPwrXUAnyNZ8zK4R-shIrqP07OtSoXeE3yQt62aLsS2Q0kuN4077idrzsyhIaIvKgYnExIFyaN0n3fEEjBoqNtbmAHSNiUXXc-b6M0aVbBBIwbbBKPDotOq/s400/064-5+-+Path+to+Torres.JPG" border="0" /></a> The Trail to Torres - Day 64<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Week 10 -<br />Day 64<br />Last day of hiking and last full day in the park. This place is one of the most diverse parks I've been to - majestic mountains, near-desert, giant ice-fields and glaciers, and quite a variety of wildlife from condors to guanaco to an endangered form of deer.<br /><br />Woke up this morning at 4:40, ready to start the hike. Except it was slightly drizzling which wasn't a great omen. Still, you never know what the clouds will do and I still have a full day ahead, so up and out of the tent, get the mini-backpack configuration ready, get on the bike and head to the trailhead about 1km away. Was actually hiking before 5:30, although in the end it wasn't quite enough. Didn't actually make the extra-special-Torres-sunrise-viewpoint until around 8:15, or about 40min late.<br /><br />But then there was no real sunrise, either. Actually, while I was there, the sun did make a brief appearance before clouds returned to shroud the summit, so all-in-all it worked out quite well.<br /><br />Hiking in the dark presents it's own challenges, especially over unfamiliar terrain. Those rickety suspension bridges take on a new dimension when the torrent below is just a loud noise in the black. And more than once I was really trying to figure out where the path was - the more recent cuts through landslides are often not marked and damned hard to locate in the dark.<br /><br />The last part of the hike is a scramble over a steep field of boulders and scree to the ridge looking down on the glacical lake. For me it was light enough already, but for the true die-hard, they would ascend this in the dark, a worthy challenge. The top is over 1000m again, so quite a climb from the valley. If you're coming from Glaciar Grey, be sure to follow the signs to Alb. Chileno and save yourself a couple 100m of vertical.<br /><br />Once you arrive, the view is majestic. Jagged peaks reflected in a calm lake. And it keeps changing. I missed dawn, but while there the sun would come out and small coulds would temporarily shroud things. As I left, the clouds became a lot denser and didn't lift again till evening.<br /><br />- Pat, I'm writing this at a campsite in earshot of a fancy grill with a live soloist who's currently playing Dust in the Wind -<br /><br />Trails are definitely a lot busier in this area, if you stop to take a leak, odds are at least one or two parties will pass you. But still a great hike. Spent some time lounging around at the top and finally headed back to camp, packed up, and got ready to head out. Said "Hi" to Sofia again, and finally hit the road again around 6. I really should try to get going earlier. From camp it's 7.5km down the same really crappy road to the gate. That took about 45min despite being mostly downhill. Then you climb over a finger of land between lakes. But other than some rediculously steep sections, this road isn't too bad. Only managed about 35km total before hitting a campground and calling it a night - my last one in the park unfortunately. But the journey goes on - southwards...<br /><br /><br />Day 65****************<br />Well, I decided to try to keep on top of things, even though I left Torres today. So I'm writing this live from Puerto Natales - at what seems to be a really decent diner: La Picada de Carlitos. Joe and Dave are still behind, although word at the hostel is that Joe may catch a late bus tonight and that leaves Dave somewhere on the Circuito.<br /><br />Dinner was really good, especially after skipping breakfast and lunch. Food today has consisted of cookies, powder drink mix, and powder milk. Cookies. Hard to find a more energy dense food, well there's still peanuts and pure vegetable oil, but for about $1.25 at inflated park prices you get around 700 calories of nutritionless goodness. This is important when you're not in the mood for a tiny park breakfast at $11 and food has pretty much run out.<br /><br />From the park to Puerto Natales there is nothing save a fancy restaurant after about 80km, so stock up on cookies. Two packs was sufficient for me, although I was definitely in the mood for food when I arrived and this place really hit the spot.<br /><br />Cycling out of the park, I first think about heading out along a dead-end road where huemuel sightings are fairly common - but the drizzle and temps around 5C, and the fact that this would be a 35km gravel detour on top of another 90km on gravel to get here, plus the mighty cookie diet and the uncertain sighting and the fact that I'm not really a huge deer fan, well, I just continue out of the park.<br /><br />The road is decent, although considering it's less than 2 years old, it already has a surprising quantity of washboard and rough spots, but nothing really soft. Winds are generally favorable, although they tend to change a lot. Once you leave the valleys behind and Puerto Natales is in sight, the wind is more focused and it is a pretty decent tailwind, almost always. This is the dominant wind direction around here and is the main reason (other than having a neat first goal) we're heading south instead of starting at Ushuaia.<br /><br />But I sometimes wonder how wise that was - the extra complication of another segment to travel by bus or plane, losing the really long days, and only a few hundred km of serious tailwind vs serious headwind, and by now it is getting late in the season. But hey, we're here now and might as well enjoy it. 2 more days to Punta Arenas and from there another 4-odd days to Ushuaia, plus however many days it takes Dave to finish. I hope to have a couple days off in Punta Arenas to recover. Sofia offered us her mom's place to crash for a day or three. Man, I just eat and eat. After the steak dinner and finishing all the bread they brought, I'm having a seafood soup and more bread. Hmmm. Hopefully I don't explode.<br /><br />Well, not too much else to report today. Just before the junction of my gravel road with the main route to Torres del Paine you hit a national monument - a set of 3 caves. At first I think a short break would do me good, but then discover there's another entrance fee for a short break, and the caves didn't look all that much different from many I've seen before. So it was onwards. The last 15km or so are even paved - pleasant finish. Right at the end, coming into town is a scenic drive along the coast with the town's waterfront on the left and many mountainous islands in sight under dark clouds. The first building into town is a helpful tourist info place, so I get my information fix and then it's off to the Erratic Rock, the hostel Joe told me about.<br /><br />The Erratic Rock is the kind of place you check in and immediately feel at home. The owners are Oregonians who decided to drop out of the States and set up shop here. You have the whole comfy hostel atmosphere - a bit of clutter, a wall of videos, sofas, and, most importantly, wi-fi internet access. It's the kinda place you can easily kill a week or so, even if Puerto Natales doesn't have all that much on offer.<br /><br />Days 66-68 ********************<br />OK, just to keep this interesting, let's combine days here - mostly because I'm writing this entry in week 13 and a few details are getting a bit rusty. Basically, these are rest days. Days to work on a blog, catch up on news, sleep, and food, do some basic bike maintenance, well, standard bike trip stuff. That and Dave's still hiking, and after he gets back, his bike needs work. In the end, Monday turns out to be a rainy morning and Joe and I are in no hurry to leave. Dave returns on day 67 (Tuesday) and doesn't get his bike fixed right away; as is often the case, skilled labor is hard to come by. He left his wheel in town before leaving, unsure what was wrong with initial truing attempts. Turns out, the new rim has a different inner diameter (where the spoke nipples are seated). Won't get into too many details here, but basically, the bike store owner didn't want to change spokes to the correct length without Dave's authorization - as this would involve fantastic sums of money - probably well over 10 pesos.<br /><br />Meanwhile, Dave is happily hiking in Torres while his wheel patiently awaits his return. Unfortunately, the bike store technician decided to not await his return and is at location unknown - so now we have a severely untrue wheel, no bike technician, and well, we want to keep going. So as in week 5, it's back to DIY - Dave and Joe roll up their sleeves, buy new spokes, and build the wheel themselves. This would be on Wednesday.<br /><br />In addition, Clive and Liz, the British couple we met crossing Lago O'Higgins at the beginning of week 8 have rolled into town - but not with the bikes - those are back in El Calafate awaiting shipment back to the UK. So they're finishing off the trip to Ushuaia on buses. We have an awesome communal dinner with Tatjana and Bill, Joe & myself, and Clive and Liz - 5 English speaking countries around one big table in Puerto Natales. After dinner, 4 of us head off and continue the evening at the obligatory Irish pub in Puerto Natales (what self respecting hamlet in far southern Chile can make it without a pub proudly displaying the Guiness logo). After all, it is St. Pat's Day (well, the Catholic church might dispute that this year due to Holy Week, but we're getting into technicalities now). So we finish off the evening when the bar finally kicks us out. I've had one too many, but things go well for all of us except Bill who discovers his hostal doesn't have 24h access and ends up spending the next few hours in the little park in the middle of town.<br /><br />It was a great place to spend a few days - although I wouldn't say I really recuperated here.<br /><br />Day 69********************<br />Well, after a few false starts, today turns out to be the day we finally break free of this mysterious vortex of location gravity that tends to trap people in a odd but pleasant milieux. Puerto Natales is the kind of place you can easily curl up with your favorite stack of books, movies, friends, small pets, etc. and disappear into a couch for a week or two at what must be at least a dozen or more hostels and guest houses. In our case we manage to only stay a couple days, but meet people who spend a week or a month or more here while they plan their next climbing expedition in Torres del Paine or wait for enough people to sign up for a multi-day kayak adventure.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrFWPJYuBHxQ2TMNkXeN1a0ZTlPTsR2dU41239kmQjOJHRBVvh3KXBgTR05qTvmeFuzMOzg5V3PKc4ZmQq1ckKm-lLDGl9peOEPgXtFCV_lnJsKV9PuMjAvp2ZmxZMPlnjnVOirTCy3u6C/s1600-h/069+-+Drop+in,+stay+awhile.JPG"></a><br />The rim has cost us a bit of time, but it was a lot of fun to catch up with friends from the last few weeks and finally get some quality time on the internet and verify that I've lost quite a bit more in my retirement fund than what this trip has cost to date.<br /><br />So by around noon we're finally packed and ready to hit the road. Well, we still need to grab some empanadas for lunch and buy some food, but by 2 we're definitely ready. And the rain has finally stopped and we have a tailwind, the road is paved, and things are looking good.<br /><br />The tailwind and/or we turn a bit and at times it's a crosswind, but otherwise it's pretty much a perfect cycling afternoon. Cover just over 100km, at times over 30-35km/h, and the scenery, while not breathtaking, is still interesting. Seems almost a bit like the African savannah, which I've never actually seen, but lots of grasses and short trees - and sheep, lots of sheep with the odd horse or cow through in for variety. Doesn't really look like any other spot I've seen - ocean and mountains towards the west and mostly flat or slight rolling hills in our direction and the winds really are almost always from the west - the trees look like they're having a really bad hair day.<br /><br />Otherwise, nothing really exciting happens. Pass a road house hotel and Joe stops for a quick snack and by evening we come to Morro Chico - an extreme miniature version of Torres del Paine - according to Bill at the hostel, both are geologically distinct from the dominant Andes range - they're due to local phenomena - but Torres del Paine is a towering set of Massifs some over 3000m while Morre Chico is maybe a 1/10th scale Ayers rock. And not much else is around - a little police station and a closed restaurant.<br /><br />But the police are some of the friendliest on the planet - after offering us a shed for shelter, they drive by again and offer us this old highway-ministry building and when Joe stops by later they offer us hot water complete with thermos we can borrow until tomorrow, plus fresh bread, and they make sure we know we can have a fire in the pot-belly stove, oh and could he please sign the guest book - 4 other cycling groups already have. Wow, I wonder how far this kind of police treatment could go in fighting crime - well, maybe not, but I sure think they could come to the States and teach our police a thing or two on customer service.<br /><br />So tonight we have a warm room, fire going, while outside the temperature is nearing freezing - we are coming to the end of South America and summer, just a few more days...<br /><br />[interesting note from week 13 when we meet up with Jan-Willem and Gudrun again - they also came this way and also stopped at the police station and were offered the same accommodation - even caught our names in the police guest book]<br />Day 70******************<br />Windy and cold - welcome to southern Patagonia, where it can snow pretty much any time of the year. Well, today wasn't that cold, although the highs topped out around 10C and it was windy, just not a particularly useful wind for us. At least it wasn't too strong. Woke up a bit cold. The pot belly stove had gone out not long after we did and by morning the temperature was approaching that outside - around 7C, so breakfast was chilly but at least we were protected from the wind.<br /><br />We finally got going around 10am and immediately turned into the wind, maybe a 20-30km/h headwind, so bearable, just slow going and the kind of day where it's just hard to get warm. I haven't been feeling all that great anyway - somehow the empanada I had yesterday just hasn't been sitting well and I pretty much belch all day long. Or maybe it's still the lingering effects of a few late nights and Guiness, who knows.<br /><br />The scenery is finally turning into the desolation I was expecting for down here - miles and miles of golden grassland with the occasional straight-line fence almost to the horizon and lots of sheep. And not much else - it just goes on and on. To break the monotony, I guess they hired an artist to create a wind monumental sculpture in steel - not sure if wind comes to mind, but I still quite liked the result:<br /><br />The other "highlight" of the day was passing a minefield. Haven't actually seen one labelled before - I suppose this could make for some interesting photos but I didn't have a death wish so we just snapped a few from the hopefully safe side of the fence. I suspect these are still residuals from the last border disputes with Argentina. Hard for me to fathom that a reasonably prosperous country still can't afford to clean this stuff up - wonder what places like Iraq or Afghanistan will be like in the future.<br /><br />Well, not much else to report today, just put in the km, but with the wind we still didn't quite manage to get to Punta Arenas and a chance at a warm shower. Instead, we ended up 35km short at a police checkpoint where we were able to find this rickety shelter and call it home for 1 night. Not as friendly as the folks in Morro Chico, although I still wonder how the average cop back home would respond if I inquired about the possibility of camping near the station... Well, time for an early night's sleep for a change - it's not even 10:30 yet. Tomorrow we finally hit the southernmost "real" city (even have a big brewery & a refinery). It's still hard for me to fathom - about 2 weeks ago on the Carretera it seemed like we were coming to world's end with remote lakes and glaciers all around, and now we're several hundred km further south and approaching a decent sized (150k) metropolis again - one that has no in-country road link to the rest of Chile - for the most part you fly or take a ferry. But more on that in days to come...</div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipMDPElP_6ZdOiCG0FlxgKY3SZPWwiPzjCxX_8YUKu6Krbv39fBtlypDV1_64s8JfEzE2d_Y2IELlK3ojBrIXaI-dxfxAnzLZQDKCkDl2ikrzZK-XURgaoEQE-yvDX0tdw7JhLdalNVu75/s1600-h/070-5+-+Ducks.JPG"></a> </div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipMDPElP_6ZdOiCG0FlxgKY3SZPWwiPzjCxX_8YUKu6Krbv39fBtlypDV1_64s8JfEzE2d_Y2IELlK3ojBrIXaI-dxfxAnzLZQDKCkDl2ikrzZK-XURgaoEQE-yvDX0tdw7JhLdalNVu75/s1600-h/070-5+-+Ducks.JPG"></a> </div></div></div></div></div><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwQ5zKaneKWmtV5RHavZJQ-uDqUj-Eiy561WbStozgci8KuaD5ueO-mfNkOfZjtJ8Kg8SN6Za_sbdtFVYSfYA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-38770843672515929892008-04-14T14:33:00.000-07:002008-04-25T10:24:19.413-07:00Week 8 -Day 50 - March 1**********************************<br />And we're off - our earliest start to date - out the hostel door by around 7:15 for a brisk early morning ride down the remaining 7km of gravel to the final, terminal sign of the Carretera Australe. It's been a tough 2 1/2 weeks but we make the ferry.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3LLQyzrvJea8dch3t_v6EePAkh-uQWLVSPzpr5vkrzAqEw1B0tXFmNm6O_IoPbUEqKLAgMG0JKiK-C66AUrK7Q8SE0K6nRsgQr5nv5JI0mWQoo68iKRMkoAvbeYj6kImQrdwYzSSLQ0xt/s1600-h/050-1+-+The+End+Of+The+Road.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189318259074923506" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3LLQyzrvJea8dch3t_v6EePAkh-uQWLVSPzpr5vkrzAqEw1B0tXFmNm6O_IoPbUEqKLAgMG0JKiK-C66AUrK7Q8SE0K6nRsgQr5nv5JI0mWQoo68iKRMkoAvbeYj6kImQrdwYzSSLQ0xt/s400/050-1+-+The+End+Of+The+Road.JPG" border="0" /></a>[Me at the end of the road]<br />Lago O'Higgins isn't particularly large,<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7IRNATDV2W-dlEjXoPvp9rzDPmpnlb1eVCxfDhlIpiIX1Ft-n05C3cXIntn2epgAVOO8wPkdTM0TFzGu9a08hjwgCiGpabB8XeR87-6vJUzkli65GevlgVikbRSQv8ZAZZQlq5kirBvJh/s1600-h/050-2+-+Dropping+off+Passengers.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189318263369890818" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7IRNATDV2W-dlEjXoPvp9rzDPmpnlb1eVCxfDhlIpiIX1Ft-n05C3cXIntn2epgAVOO8wPkdTM0TFzGu9a08hjwgCiGpabB8XeR87-6vJUzkli65GevlgVikbRSQv8ZAZZQlq5kirBvJh/s400/050-2+-+Dropping+off+Passengers.JPG" border="0" /></a> [delivering a passenger to his homestead out in the desolation on the shore of Lago OHiggins]<br />but glaciers create their own microclimate and the winds pick up to the point that a few of our friends are having second thoughts on going for the extended glacier tour. In the end, we are the only 3 cyclists (out of 7) to go to the glacier. A bit of a shame, it's an amazing sight. The ferry - well actually it's really a tour boat which happens to take bicycles (the only motorized vehicles on this ribbon of land squeezed between lake and ice and the Argentine border are moved here by the military) has a somewhat convoluted route taking you straight across the lake to the trailhead, then on a side trip to the glacier, returning to the trail, and back to Villa OHiggins, so tourists in either direction can enjoy the glacier.<br /><br />Well, the glacier speaks for itself - here's a few nice shots - the colors are amazing, as are the occasional big chunks of ice calving in amazing fountains of water.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY0CPHeapEfm_2yAZfH0n1VBkg6f6zt_wsuyAUV0XNCiavg_rMJtU4VD0vjSt9sv1y0FfGNdxCP0T_w0rN0e0mD0gojUS2rzEStt81SQtK3yQj4UQCWLcRcq_ZQOek5T3X9tM4CR5S6xK2/s1600-h/050-3+-+The+Whole+Enchilada.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189318263369890834" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY0CPHeapEfm_2yAZfH0n1VBkg6f6zt_wsuyAUV0XNCiavg_rMJtU4VD0vjSt9sv1y0FfGNdxCP0T_w0rN0e0mD0gojUS2rzEStt81SQtK3yQj4UQCWLcRcq_ZQOek5T3X9tM4CR5S6xK2/s400/050-3+-+The+Whole+Enchilada.JPG" border="0" /></a>[OK, the glacier in full glory under cloudy skies]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIMoIsf1Z4Q14uLBstnROEOLwtyECDdzACFvnLGDa28UY28M821aU0by4NdN-wIO0ntJmBovo0FZtqfSZhDs8bIQTehLlUEkH_rqSH5kLEEymkreh_JCh4EzNtcC2YZaZxHD6rmwoZhRv2/s1600-h/050-4+-+Glacier+Collapse+1.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189318263369890850" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIMoIsf1Z4Q14uLBstnROEOLwtyECDdzACFvnLGDa28UY28M821aU0by4NdN-wIO0ntJmBovo0FZtqfSZhDs8bIQTehLlUEkH_rqSH5kLEEymkreh_JCh4EzNtcC2YZaZxHD6rmwoZhRv2/s400/050-4+-+Glacier+Collapse+1.JPG" border="0" /></a>[And a sequence of shots, we'll I won't narrate these]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzMCwpL94AnfSQvMok1K_0tZoPoMXzEbNDE8CbutK6oX0XD-QROfy59Ij859O6tHkivLYFWLCIGkv98lKaWv3o5ej8FGX413v-pKl9OAre-l-Plj2SOlMstfgNWtBEdlMoRC4L8Dt0lbFk/s1600-h/050-4+-+Glacier+Collapse+1.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189313105114168226" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzMCwpL94AnfSQvMok1K_0tZoPoMXzEbNDE8CbutK6oX0XD-QROfy59Ij859O6tHkivLYFWLCIGkv98lKaWv3o5ej8FGX413v-pKl9OAre-l-Plj2SOlMstfgNWtBEdlMoRC4L8Dt0lbFk/s400/050-4+-+Glacier+Collapse+1.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEzW557e_4_b6htfdON1CpGM0IQGzMbeIBzcQdrGJDn4tqcmjSlrlF-Z4p2yeYKmdSXKB4_j2sGhy5N7XkK_jbC9b9oSw0ubEfykHzlPn2a1B3lcH0TD7fp70cHc5G5bKKrxuUgDF6X945/s1600-h/050-5+-+This+is+gonna+cost+me+-+2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189313109409135538" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEzW557e_4_b6htfdON1CpGM0IQGzMbeIBzcQdrGJDn4tqcmjSlrlF-Z4p2yeYKmdSXKB4_j2sGhy5N7XkK_jbC9b9oSw0ubEfykHzlPn2a1B3lcH0TD7fp70cHc5G5bKKrxuUgDF6X945/s400/050-5+-+This+is+gonna+cost+me+-+2.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMOISRUQa8RXJyYWpPQejiCVatPXYHqDPOkAWVnfikDNl9Sj67l70Eq-LIxVmx42XdGQ1SbJCoalY51dIpHl4TMpJJUdS_DaVM3F7sRuy3nm894lhp0mMj67KGrXUKwHvoowZqi2vq1_Zc/s1600-h/050-6+-+The+center+cannot+hold+-+3.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189313109409135554" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMOISRUQa8RXJyYWpPQejiCVatPXYHqDPOkAWVnfikDNl9Sj67l70Eq-LIxVmx42XdGQ1SbJCoalY51dIpHl4TMpJJUdS_DaVM3F7sRuy3nm894lhp0mMj67KGrXUKwHvoowZqi2vq1_Zc/s400/050-6+-+The+center+cannot+hold+-+3.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj00bJWsgz7diQq0hIkGvdLkdpsJUzbMDyEVBi_TSVOX5AwAJSVhvPNCXfStz_ukkfe9jSr0JDQehzm0BH9Gf6U0qLhZd8AzUg0aLBthojD9lo58vljrcDAG_1OEN-hl1eHdWyDtviSCkPz/s1600-h/050-7+-+Even+better+than+Vegas+-+4.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189313109409135570" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj00bJWsgz7diQq0hIkGvdLkdpsJUzbMDyEVBi_TSVOX5AwAJSVhvPNCXfStz_ukkfe9jSr0JDQehzm0BH9Gf6U0qLhZd8AzUg0aLBthojD9lo58vljrcDAG_1OEN-hl1eHdWyDtviSCkPz/s400/050-7+-+Even+better+than+Vegas+-+4.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw6sbd6rECQ63CboxB6ulUHeSXeDwpxUJ2g5aE8jhzXwubZ2VbmmCcO9GOUBDT38FM03DQQP-IF3LCb_gVleJ3Y1bWQUmFzSh8eEy_TSigQs02oaZ0Logfr-Dhpc0e71d-w5ec6mbvc0Cc/s1600-h/050-8+-+Shows+Over+-+5.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189313113704102882" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw6sbd6rECQ63CboxB6ulUHeSXeDwpxUJ2g5aE8jhzXwubZ2VbmmCcO9GOUBDT38FM03DQQP-IF3LCb_gVleJ3Y1bWQUmFzSh8eEy_TSigQs02oaZ0Logfr-Dhpc0e71d-w5ec6mbvc0Cc/s400/050-8+-+Shows+Over+-+5.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUkGV86ZilLxsSjYJE8T_-ge0P6kZVB7A7a7stSKz22H1NEMTvKXJz7DU8Ld46oJPGApqRyUbq11vjqfszsdACma_Dj9t4W_Mu8rwH3PKq5a1WI23-tkLVDTJ0CThqtI-kKHuYVStW60o/s1600-h/050-9+-+More+Glacier.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189310519543855954" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUkGV86ZilLxsSjYJE8T_-ge0P6kZVB7A7a7stSKz22H1NEMTvKXJz7DU8Ld46oJPGApqRyUbq11vjqfszsdACma_Dj9t4W_Mu8rwH3PKq5a1WI23-tkLVDTJ0CThqtI-kKHuYVStW60o/s400/050-9+-+More+Glacier.JPG" border="0" /></a>[Later the sun came out more and more]<br />By evening, we're back at the trailhead and get our remaining 300 or so meters of cycling in between the dock and the only campground. We have asked for horses to carry our luggage - highly recommended as the trail isn't really intended for heavily loaded bikes - in particular the Argentine part is so heavily rutted, front panniers tend to get stuck. So we follow the recommendation of others and ask, boy my memory is fading, but I want to say his name was Ricardo. Quite the character - pretty much has a "you'll have your horses and all will be well, please stop bothering me now", but we're still not too confident as our man-with-the-horses appears to enjoy a drink or more now and then. And then one of us finds him passed out in the field, apparently overcome while siphoning gasoline. Rather odd, not quite sure what he was doing, but he woke up in a hurry and rather confused. Tomorrow will be an interesting day. At least camping is reasonable and includes a hot shower.<br /><br />Day 51*******************************<br />proves to be one of the more interesting ones. Hard to top yesterday's glacier, but today we get our first view of Mt Fitz Roy - a very pronounced massif, but we'll get to that. First we're trying to establish exactly how our luggage is going to make it to the other side of this 23km strip of land. This is turning into something of a farce - the proprietor asks us to be there 9-ish, but by 10:30 still no clear information on how this should work. The ferry on the other end isn't running tomorrow and we really don't want to spend a whole day waiting for the next one. Tensions are rising and finally we just show up at the horse stalls with all our gear and both parties have enough of talking - we agree to leave all the baggage on the ground near the stalls and pray for the best. After all, we haven't heard any bad things about this operation, other than problems heading in the other direction (can't order the horses from the Argentine side).<br /><br />We leave with some apprehension, but are soon through Chilean customs<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3GlHi2GLz9rbKcUWxK98AkwqQZ610Jl4G4YcUwJV_wkQkQWMzRTqDEpCl3E1efTYAw2GVs3ViHygQrIlB8prJWTEQ3a4DfV-Uc9LiwlWkLmwcZq1zqHlmyjxUlxy3_HLf3LlLhkRt9SeQ/s1600-h/051-1+-+Pretty+Remote+Crossing.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189310523838823266" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3GlHi2GLz9rbKcUWxK98AkwqQZ610Jl4G4YcUwJV_wkQkQWMzRTqDEpCl3E1efTYAw2GVs3ViHygQrIlB8prJWTEQ3a4DfV-Uc9LiwlWkLmwcZq1zqHlmyjxUlxy3_HLf3LlLhkRt9SeQ/s400/051-1+-+Pretty+Remote+Crossing.JPG" border="0" /></a>[Chilean Customs]<br />and on a fairly crude gravel road, complete with river crossings, and a crude near-border airstrip (probably military). The river crossing does have a few wobbly planks and we all manage to cross without mishap. Actually, by now we're already a bit more at ease - as we sit in awe at Fitz-Roy's first appearance and chow down on some snacks, the horses appear. All 7 or so, some with tourists on them, one guide, and our 3 pack-horses. All is well - apparently they do this a lot, despite the almost comical lack of information or any appeance of following a schedule.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtd9eIAkr9iDt10AZmF23Yz25B13341n9atnFlYXUbkRT1B_GzvKQDBe8NBKip0NMfUWupx97juGF9kG7abdNrTC9OQP1OUqojII_aGJYivi0SOcntF9iBfNrg_u8lVlIvLsLRrxGu5Skm/s1600-h/051-2+-+The+Horses.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189310523838823282" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtd9eIAkr9iDt10AZmF23Yz25B13341n9atnFlYXUbkRT1B_GzvKQDBe8NBKip0NMfUWupx97juGF9kG7abdNrTC9OQP1OUqojII_aGJYivi0SOcntF9iBfNrg_u8lVlIvLsLRrxGu5Skm/s400/051-2+-+The+Horses.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We're doing ok - perhaps a bit late, but much faster than the horses, so we're feeling pretty good about the whole thing, and then you get to the actual border<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfENCiesOMQWvPJSAag1Itrz00tCRvyp1gPpSF6EeV-0_1WDBXDzMBoEiJqJHJ6Bu4F9E248bPS5oq7WTR86Kf5oZKbRBfjTGWXLCimHyfewy_B1dbvHyA2M_BZ1kLl6Ei3UCWqGZwHhLc/s1600-h/051-3+-+The+Actual+Border.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189310528133790594" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfENCiesOMQWvPJSAag1Itrz00tCRvyp1gPpSF6EeV-0_1WDBXDzMBoEiJqJHJ6Bu4F9E248bPS5oq7WTR86Kf5oZKbRBfjTGWXLCimHyfewy_B1dbvHyA2M_BZ1kLl6Ei3UCWqGZwHhLc/s400/051-3+-+The+Actual+Border.JPG" border="0" /></a>[The actual border with the whole gang - from left - Jan Willem & Gudrun from the Netherlands, Clive and Liz from the UK, and Dave, Me, and Joe]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79FiWN8TWXum1qZc3OgM7WYVsngNBAr0bNXt-PXHil_9doNoEl1RgsNmm3qx4_5mmovRXrcq5avfLvIl8OYX8u7hWfAFHqcT8_166CilHdGbLtAm9JMlztCU1AHL_mtJfofTathhMGseh/s1600-h/051-4+-+Border+Acrobatics.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189310536723725202" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79FiWN8TWXum1qZc3OgM7WYVsngNBAr0bNXt-PXHil_9doNoEl1RgsNmm3qx4_5mmovRXrcq5avfLvIl8OYX8u7hWfAFHqcT8_166CilHdGbLtAm9JMlztCU1AHL_mtJfofTathhMGseh/s400/051-4+-+Border+Acrobatics.JPG" border="0" /></a> [Dave doing acrobatics at the border]<br />and, well, things change a bit. Still not worried, but the trail turns into something that would make the average single-track enthusiast proud. Winding trail through forests, roots, stumps, and really, really deep ruts - probably up to 2 ft in some sections. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQmZrqRcY7sISJglEKJu3gtnCH3sN5WGrtcuBptyWnowKhEw9zlMQ3xzjy38ijLb9NJXqb-9BkDt4WEEgxw9UliTcDGpmyK_9reWuPJpzaYaODUYNy2D_6Dm6GuxTkJ-ZGDcVxerZmNNQ/s1600-h/051-6+-+Tough,+tough+path.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189304695568202546" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQmZrqRcY7sISJglEKJu3gtnCH3sN5WGrtcuBptyWnowKhEw9zlMQ3xzjy38ijLb9NJXqb-9BkDt4WEEgxw9UliTcDGpmyK_9reWuPJpzaYaODUYNy2D_6Dm6GuxTkJ-ZGDcVxerZmNNQ/s400/051-6+-+Tough,+tough+path.JPG" border="0" /></a>[this is why front, low-rider panniers aren't recommended on this trail]<br />And a final downhill that mostly involves skidding.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0IK8HBsr4bCM_OVrY70Zs1ta-GrgOT-ew-PNzCzQAhil9mmJXvFHZ4Yu2gCjAV3WdPq2VXvIECSQUrXgxdFQEONflGfTPnDH5NwsRalZFYYiLWql4IUcTS3O6jPsFVbshsUwT8Bt8nss/s1600-h/051-7+-+Really+tough+path.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189304699863169858" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0IK8HBsr4bCM_OVrY70Zs1ta-GrgOT-ew-PNzCzQAhil9mmJXvFHZ4Yu2gCjAV3WdPq2VXvIECSQUrXgxdFQEONflGfTPnDH5NwsRalZFYYiLWql4IUcTS3O6jPsFVbshsUwT8Bt8nss/s400/051-7+-+Really+tough+path.JPG" border="0" /></a>[that would be the trail at the bottom, not a bad view, eh?]<br />Yeah, this would be tricky with 100lb of pack, although generally cyclists heading north have to do it without the horses (typically they do the Argentine section in several trips with a partial load of panniers).<br /><br />And then we're at the Argentine checkpoint right on the lake - now this is the life - waiting around for the few tourists which arrive once or twice a week from Chile, right on this beautiful lake overlooking Fitz-Roy.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAY4mkeiSgnrlZrS2rw6ombFIioz9S0PvD_RJk5KW7lfgMUTx4rgEwlKyGJZx5DuzsY0wml0UkCtAkM20W9ds1RLz2JyGhh574urKD0f6aIUqfFhoiVFlm-jzZHbu7XXm05K_QUMnaBw3/s1600-h/051-5+-+Amazing+FitzRoy.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189304691273235202" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAY4mkeiSgnrlZrS2rw6ombFIioz9S0PvD_RJk5KW7lfgMUTx4rgEwlKyGJZx5DuzsY0wml0UkCtAkM20W9ds1RLz2JyGhh574urKD0f6aIUqfFhoiVFlm-jzZHbu7XXm05K_QUMnaBw3/s400/051-5+-+Amazing+FitzRoy.JPG" border="0" /></a>[First good view of FitzRoy and Lago Desierto]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-iIIVuPdY1SAgoO9WTS6SaSjw3kax9VO_AUkblrgNHaKpYo31RKeogRqm9-frDUjj5l1wpQ7cFfCzGqinLY1w5o6tw0kPFQ_FnHK7SozHr32tfykJmp_vkXpRT-DuyeBBlRjoAQA5sDEo/s1600-h/051-6+-+Lago+Desierto.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189304691273235218" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-iIIVuPdY1SAgoO9WTS6SaSjw3kax9VO_AUkblrgNHaKpYo31RKeogRqm9-frDUjj5l1wpQ7cFfCzGqinLY1w5o6tw0kPFQ_FnHK7SozHr32tfykJmp_vkXpRT-DuyeBBlRjoAQA5sDEo/s400/051-6+-+Lago+Desierto.JPG" border="0" /></a>[I suppose the caption is superfluous]<br />All goes well - we see the ferry approach and as it comes more and more into view, our horses also make an appeance and the all the logistics fall into place.<br /><br />The ferry carries us over Lago Desierto<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFOoUJYJcT3lOq_SI7kvJuPK19-XTSuKAbsC-qbx_Q4wRNYiOJX_ZaluFATvxLSllZNvCA5q09bf1GXFrPLsc1pYjZBli7aPU_5L6u23GF_aT2_fcCaHasCcntZe0mXg-WVuN3mZx3lzAS/s1600-h/051-6+-+Lotsa+Bikes.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189304695568202530" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFOoUJYJcT3lOq_SI7kvJuPK19-XTSuKAbsC-qbx_Q4wRNYiOJX_ZaluFATvxLSllZNvCA5q09bf1GXFrPLsc1pYjZBli7aPU_5L6u23GF_aT2_fcCaHasCcntZe0mXg-WVuN3mZx3lzAS/s400/051-6+-+Lotsa+Bikes.JPG" border="0" /></a>[a lotta bikes on a ferry]<br />and then we decide to call it a day - there's something labelled "Camping" but nobody around - we're not sure who to talk to. There's also a short hike to the local glacier - nice quick walk, but not as impressive as many other hikes in this area (wait till tomorrow). You're supposed to pay 15pesos ($5), but again nobody's around. Just as we're starting to settle in for the night, the proprietor shows up and informs us we're in the wrong place, but he graciously allows us to stay for a mere 15pesos each - no hot water, no showers (if we want those, he informs us we should bike to the next town - only 30km down the gravel road). Needless to say, I wouldn't recommend camping at lago Desierto if possible.<br /><br />Day 52 ************************<br />Wow, winter is coming, even if it's technically still summer here. So now we know what it's like camping a few km beneath a glacier - once we cleared some of the frozen condensate off our tents. Jan-Villem found a pretty good chunk of ice on theirs. We get a pretty reasonable start and cross paths with an older German couple - pretty amazing, they're just setting out on a multi-day hike on the local glacier. Their adult children also have the explorer bug and are out travelling the world... google polarwinkel for more info.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRyZy007Ij_ao7wIQjf5653deDVyummBFpSnxzJrBcEr3zRj09QQPkVoJomHG_Q2x4408rUbtowLLHtYEmHKoCCG95aWvGqnqz60GCjqe0XWA2ZDPLoCMBzf1_Ne_ooL6z5UBWsyDw9NCV/s1600-h/052-1+-+Morning+under+the+cold+glacier.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190423818016652386" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRyZy007Ij_ao7wIQjf5653deDVyummBFpSnxzJrBcEr3zRj09QQPkVoJomHG_Q2x4408rUbtowLLHtYEmHKoCCG95aWvGqnqz60GCjqe0XWA2ZDPLoCMBzf1_Ne_ooL6z5UBWsyDw9NCV/s400/052-1+-+Morning+under+the+cold+glacier.jpg" border="0" /></a>[The glacier that turned camp into a freezer]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHUYSOJYUQZZjW1Jy-ew4rh5cZdAKaM0WWggHO1CFIv3KHCgA3wtjP6-Fw3ja6uUQPzrKu5UtOBxVYompL45oRZztGrjz3JTzuHWJgTPq2-iV0gqQm9G4MkykPJF_5Woyi0amcfZGs7IXa/s1600-h/052-2+-+Campground+on+hike.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190423826606586994" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHUYSOJYUQZZjW1Jy-ew4rh5cZdAKaM0WWggHO1CFIv3KHCgA3wtjP6-Fw3ja6uUQPzrKu5UtOBxVYompL45oRZztGrjz3JTzuHWJgTPq2-iV0gqQm9G4MkykPJF_5Woyi0amcfZGs7IXa/s400/052-2+-+Campground+on+hike.jpg" border="0" /></a>[For all you lazy campers - here you can rent a tent for the night, in some cases, you can even rent a sleeping bag - this is on the hike up to Fitz-Roy]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2wJhR20wG8FvlNGMTN84nmmbSFLtCAI9i2JcL707yXLpU2Uh0nXc2ToSlEGc3NaMZhOylA0pkIyYcO9SOtzGig5B2WniE2al4eKN-NFXaiVLj6K3n9tAcMGQj2GXWoWpIUy6_9nGr8oY-/s1600-h/052-3+-+High+mountain+lake.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190423830901554306" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2wJhR20wG8FvlNGMTN84nmmbSFLtCAI9i2JcL707yXLpU2Uh0nXc2ToSlEGc3NaMZhOylA0pkIyYcO9SOtzGig5B2WniE2al4eKN-NFXaiVLj6K3n9tAcMGQj2GXWoWpIUy6_9nGr8oY-/s400/052-3+-+High+mountain+lake.jpg" border="0" /></a>[Just a nice reflecting pool on the hike]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSb3rhYCqcfRP9-4q_lwq__vW3PUO0bcVWcmTnYTxHHWENHiX-s9hyphenhyphenrfZ6j9dbKfbLdXd5D1IEGDkefM8ujq43TLqjKhZ9eO5BOfQ4dB2rwwtUZ9aNl0JhDuB_FQvRByPhY0askW89E8ZI/s1600-h/052-4+-+Getting+close.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190423835196521618" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSb3rhYCqcfRP9-4q_lwq__vW3PUO0bcVWcmTnYTxHHWENHiX-s9hyphenhyphenrfZ6j9dbKfbLdXd5D1IEGDkefM8ujq43TLqjKhZ9eO5BOfQ4dB2rwwtUZ9aNl0JhDuB_FQvRByPhY0askW89E8ZI/s400/052-4+-+Getting+close.jpg" border="0" /></a>[The mountain itself - getting close, the ridge blocking the view is the one I'll climb up to]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE9uu_1KMOQDL2Fp6WvBuh5VLw1vzyy6wIbdOiYMuetmCbdDWZRicMhovAnlNXUBGHBRarZDxTw99N9TGGGeXInrEvygSMXOv2m8Zb2x7nm6J9XK3qAEi8ECBH_ugKjMerB8vCUIGv93n8/s1600-h/052-5+-+Nice+campsite.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190423843786456226" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE9uu_1KMOQDL2Fp6WvBuh5VLw1vzyy6wIbdOiYMuetmCbdDWZRicMhovAnlNXUBGHBRarZDxTw99N9TGGGeXInrEvygSMXOv2m8Zb2x7nm6J9XK3qAEi8ECBH_ugKjMerB8vCUIGv93n8/s400/052-5+-+Nice+campsite.jpg" border="0" /></a>[the ultimate campsite - that blue/grey blob just above the bottom of the picture in the middle - that's a tent, the sole tent that I can see]<br />We get to town and suddenly it's like the screenplay is all screwed up - we just finished our trip to the end of the road at the end of the earth, went through scenery that wouldn't be out of place in the Arctic, then kept on going - a ferry, a remove trail and border crossing, another lake, and we're back in the land of microbreweries and internet cafes. Hmmm... not quite what I expected, but Chalten is a fairly new town popping up at the base of Fitz-Roy. It has pretty much everything a tourist could ever want except a cash machine - but I suppose that will be rectified before long. Well, that and the microbrewery was out of their own beer. But otherwise a hip tourist trap. On Jan-Villem's advice, we pick a fairly nice campground - El Refugio - which is run pretty tightly (there are reports of theft from the free campsite outside town). We savor the return of real food; well, mostly I do - nice artisan cheeses (except for the fly I find in mine), nice bread, fresh veggies (these were getting a bit scarce at the end of the CA) - just an awesome submarine sandwich. And then it's time for the first hike. There's this awesome hike which takes you just beneath Fitz-Roy. Unfortunately, there's no time - I think it's supposed to take something like 8 hours and there's only 5 before dark. Nothing like hiking fast. I highly, highly recommend this hike. Even the mid-way point gives you some amazing views of Fitz-Roy, then it's just a quick run up over a ridge to the small glacial / melt lake beneath Fitz Roy. I make it pretty much just after sunset, but the views are still amazing. Really amazing. I think this will be one of the highlights of the entire trip.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1FwJ2NA-Q_lUMyBEo3-xA23qCM2e_YjsoollJRbGeXjUY2wsFCczokH0JreZvlTKiG4W44mYoQO6eFgK2O4z6gg1xYkIZkfisGbZ_osdwD8TcWVJIYdJJxKwK0O6v5DHMxRX_S-5PyP9Y/s1600-h/052-6+-+Fitz-Roy+Close-up.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190425042082331826" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1FwJ2NA-Q_lUMyBEo3-xA23qCM2e_YjsoollJRbGeXjUY2wsFCczokH0JreZvlTKiG4W44mYoQO6eFgK2O4z6gg1xYkIZkfisGbZ_osdwD8TcWVJIYdJJxKwK0O6v5DHMxRX_S-5PyP9Y/s400/052-6+-+Fitz-Roy+Close-up.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs-k1lftvIBUG-8bnLyYFdDDl7X6kaVwVbagOnoA5FmXa-D1rSETSa2ZJN8I_DOGc55VTQ4Exl8syaCg042OXIxEMaKy5CyaKOjWMktkpyZhoJBPfcApp1pC24GQ6QDkYQMa43HDK3JQq3/s1600-h/052-7+-+Night+Shot.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190425046377299138" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs-k1lftvIBUG-8bnLyYFdDDl7X6kaVwVbagOnoA5FmXa-D1rSETSa2ZJN8I_DOGc55VTQ4Exl8syaCg042OXIxEMaKy5CyaKOjWMktkpyZhoJBPfcApp1pC24GQ6QDkYQMa43HDK3JQq3/s400/052-7+-+Night+Shot.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The day just isn't long enough as I head down into darkness - although Fitz-Roy in fading dusk is still an amazing sight. And then it really turns night as I make it back to camp and head for the microbrewery sans microbrew (didn't know it heading out) where Joe later joins me for a drink and slice of pizza and popcorn.<br /><br />Good day.<br /><br />Day 53*****************<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyVgnWLXE3pBaBwfB6a9d9ypvHdBTA4AOT9AihsxPuRXvTaibQYQmIDdC_2Y2m0DtIyUDSVmIdyfdV_m0DOibxKsyEykNX9_6xG6f_3nc7ha_uH8_QiYydKuWZDQ8uuOdRhpWfdqTo4iG/s1600-h/053-2+-+Not+the+best+shot+of+Chalten.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190425050672266466" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyVgnWLXE3pBaBwfB6a9d9ypvHdBTA4AOT9AihsxPuRXvTaibQYQmIDdC_2Y2m0DtIyUDSVmIdyfdV_m0DOibxKsyEykNX9_6xG6f_3nc7ha_uH8_QiYydKuWZDQ8uuOdRhpWfdqTo4iG/s400/053-2+-+Not+the+best+shot+of+Chalten.jpg" border="0" /></a>[Not the most scenic view, but a shot of Chalten and a trendy hostel with FitzRoy looming in the background]<br /><br />Just can't get enough of this place, so it's up and out for another hike - to see El Torre - the Tower. This one will also turn out to be a bit longer than expected, and again it's definitely worth it. While the Tower isn't the imposing monolith like Fitz-Roy - in some ways it's even more impressive -<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3NmmJMAPNpvo7IlGA6ez5b4GUFBVdcLTVIz4u2g6h9rCjjMtBUGcsRvd9_S7sF7NnROHcDpoN7KgZsxTY7lkuz7xFwX-9AxtiVDlDjSlHdlAYVyKv5ucebLStxGsHt5Yii0KywCeuNoXA/s1600-h/053-4+-+Cerro+Torre+Close+Up.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190425858126118146" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3NmmJMAPNpvo7IlGA6ez5b4GUFBVdcLTVIz4u2g6h9rCjjMtBUGcsRvd9_S7sF7NnROHcDpoN7KgZsxTY7lkuz7xFwX-9AxtiVDlDjSlHdlAYVyKv5ucebLStxGsHt5Yii0KywCeuNoXA/s400/053-4+-+Cerro+Torre+Close+Up.jpg" border="0" /></a>[The Tower]<br />mostly because there are people out there with even less sense than me - out there on this nearly vertical (on all sides) spindle into the sky with what must be a multi-story snow-and-ice cap and you can just make out small moving specks on its walls.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuCiTI-bihZj-8Y67DC1LYut4FmoA1VusWlgSUZYgCE2cTbVTdoOIXSa81wFFVUzfWjfpejNXW_MNGGCapdFesRmh_asfg0FZjyeMteaXgazLHFLAZ9cbhgRYORGnPvKwoEyzgBeHet8b-/s1600-h/053-4+-+Cerro+Torre+Close+Up.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190433245469867506" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuCiTI-bihZj-8Y67DC1LYut4FmoA1VusWlgSUZYgCE2cTbVTdoOIXSa81wFFVUzfWjfpejNXW_MNGGCapdFesRmh_asfg0FZjyeMteaXgazLHFLAZ9cbhgRYORGnPvKwoEyzgBeHet8b-/s400/053-4+-+Cerro+Torre+Close+Up.jpg" border="0" /></a> [Really close up - those circled dots are people, I have other shots where they're no longer there]<br />I guess it takes several days to summit. Maybe someday - don't have that skill set yet, although I think I'd be content with something slightly less insane - maybe Yosemite.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Olb0OBsrwT5KNZOh_ceJAiOXcYb0cXU9NoTjSOKZI1rsigiRZdDXeJR-sPTESdZzVkJCySjbgaBJbJqxUklKXtbrpc-3wFbaTMU_wTIdZCmJ9xzUII8h0HNhIu_BZCfhaUYuOW3Zwvj0/s1600-h/053-3+-+At+Lago+Torre+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190425054967233778" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Olb0OBsrwT5KNZOh_ceJAiOXcYb0cXU9NoTjSOKZI1rsigiRZdDXeJR-sPTESdZzVkJCySjbgaBJbJqxUklKXtbrpc-3wFbaTMU_wTIdZCmJ9xzUII8h0HNhIu_BZCfhaUYuOW3Zwvj0/s400/053-3+-+At+Lago+Torre+1.jpg" border="0" /></a>[Yours truly at Lago Torre]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXRQuPzPQhG1cB476BNVCO5HPjoYgYD9BDlHiYzSookxXJ4Vwp26p34-RMRjhJr-KdKjLuHz_fCGMXlZVgVICfEgYL6AKZoyQ1y0RCQaVrqL0LEU7ynysElvOmayx0RMUoFzpuxF240mda/s1600-h/053-5+-+Trail+Picture.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190425862421085458" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXRQuPzPQhG1cB476BNVCO5HPjoYgYD9BDlHiYzSookxXJ4Vwp26p34-RMRjhJr-KdKjLuHz_fCGMXlZVgVICfEgYL6AKZoyQ1y0RCQaVrqL0LEU7ynysElvOmayx0RMUoFzpuxF240mda/s400/053-5+-+Trail+Picture.jpg" border="0" /></a>[The trail leading there]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSq5KoH0wAjlb3hXL9We4ZrSoVRVudwScHkWdH-2JQutHm-uca0t1VyiELQhjPXi7ynk8rHg8UT44wJHG6axc7Q3GKi7xslQVhZHxsnxeaW0xkO2-HEg30zNenphgS8d9Bim8DP0Zi0Bz/s1600-h/053-6-+The+Whole+Massif.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190425866716052770" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSq5KoH0wAjlb3hXL9We4ZrSoVRVudwScHkWdH-2JQutHm-uca0t1VyiELQhjPXi7ynk8rHg8UT44wJHG6axc7Q3GKi7xslQVhZHxsnxeaW0xkO2-HEg30zNenphgS8d9Bim8DP0Zi0Bz/s400/053-6-+The+Whole+Massif.jpg" border="0" /></a>[The whole set of mountains near La Torre - the peak sticking up the most on the right side]<br />Anyway, after another high-speed-hike, we all regroup in town and head out into the sunset - or at least until sunlight fades, much to Joe's consternation. But the wind is at our backs on this stretch and despite leaving around 6pm and hitting pretty rough gravel & construction for the first few km, we still cover well over 60km before stopping for the evening.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7r1j2ecw3dHvaRSOSliThfozvobdD1r67MAKe1_8MNnHYUwsXUZJQEqhv1PVdrib-txH1kiSGiIlNJDq110q5MBPXSpObhuYQQ6DkGXwB7Mx3J2aoy2VfU6DByvEgb1kRb5vFhWwvvhH/s1600-h/053-7+-+Leaving+Chalten.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190425871011020082" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7r1j2ecw3dHvaRSOSliThfozvobdD1r67MAKe1_8MNnHYUwsXUZJQEqhv1PVdrib-txH1kiSGiIlNJDq110q5MBPXSpObhuYQQ6DkGXwB7Mx3J2aoy2VfU6DByvEgb1kRb5vFhWwvvhH/s400/053-7+-+Leaving+Chalten.jpg" border="0" /></a>[The view heading out of Chalten]<br />There's not much out this way, so finding camp mostly involves looking for a site out of the wind. We settle for a small depression/drainage system and hope for a dry night - which appears very likely.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxhH5Dpf0BtQF1Qn8TY_PuVy-c21nac3WkaHbFr4YJ_sxUrPsmTlsK_D1XbvnZBjwehzN30dJaxLzH1zYITWu60RLzXIQgXisFQf0UQQEWUTMEXsuxLUKl2vqM9VrPHHp9M4Fn96Ol9vA/s1600-h/053-8-++Evening+Camp+.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190425875305987394" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxhH5Dpf0BtQF1Qn8TY_PuVy-c21nac3WkaHbFr4YJ_sxUrPsmTlsK_D1XbvnZBjwehzN30dJaxLzH1zYITWu60RLzXIQgXisFQf0UQQEWUTMEXsuxLUKl2vqM9VrPHHp9M4Fn96Ol9vA/s400/053-8-++Evening+Camp+.jpg" border="0" /></a>[Camp on the side of the road]<br />Another good day.<br /><br />Day 54**************************<br />So we camp in the desert and awake in the desert. The winds have faded so not much of a boost as we head out. Still, it's a pretty easy going morning. After an hour or so we encounter our first cyclists - a Chilean couple heading the other way - they'll need to hurry a bit to make that next ferry, but it should be doable. When out in the sticks, hotels are few and far between, so we have to rely on the kindness of strangers from time to time. This occasionally goes wrong as the Chilean couple discovered - the gaucho who allowed them to stay apparently had a change of heart in the middle of the night and started yelling at them - they decided not to leave, but warned us to steer clear of the white corrugated shack along Ruta 40.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAxpLBF9rJTj7MJTArZc9gNR1eQEpimrLT04C43v2x_7Fx9ExklPM5wODyODATmx5AKCsFXRQfHv9jrfPKZ8WASoZhPE6oq_y8TC7d5WgMgDX_gqZD0fexgjKh72Z-oneLSn4pp8aJ_3UG/s1600-h/054-1+-+Rheas+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190427103666634066" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAxpLBF9rJTj7MJTArZc9gNR1eQEpimrLT04C43v2x_7Fx9ExklPM5wODyODATmx5AKCsFXRQfHv9jrfPKZ8WASoZhPE6oq_y8TC7d5WgMgDX_gqZD0fexgjKh72Z-oneLSn4pp8aJ_3UG/s400/054-1+-+Rheas+1.jpg" border="0" /></a>[just some of the wildlife - some Rheas on Day 54]<br />A far more interesting locale is the Hotel Leona - right in the middle of the sticks on the banks of the Leona river, it's a fairly simple but well-maintained looking building but once inside it's a little step back in history. The walls are covered <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQmV5-lUSWvYCBSN65p11hhpyDkjxDmJrK_Mkc7XH4AICaCOHEdOFCJs0mbgpE1HnKsn1_ZPjCPogWgFEOsL2aVERlrBbH0ZM9wE4esmoZvcxXvXDsCy0Nwzyt7rLjlwYy9IemZSixFgt/s1600-h/054-2+-+La+Leona.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190427107961601378" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQmV5-lUSWvYCBSN65p11hhpyDkjxDmJrK_Mkc7XH4AICaCOHEdOFCJs0mbgpE1HnKsn1_ZPjCPogWgFEOsL2aVERlrBbH0ZM9wE4esmoZvcxXvXDsCy0Nwzyt7rLjlwYy9IemZSixFgt/s400/054-2+-+La+Leona.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />with memorobilia of the past century or two. Besides the obligatory pictures of early mountain explorers, there's also a section devoted to Butch Cassidy - apparently between his various misdeeds in the American West, he also found time to travel down here and rob local banks. He spent a few weeks at the Leona. Small world.<br /><br />We run into a few other cyclists - an Austrian couple who've been travelling for a few years already including Tibet which is probably the most paradoxical place to travel.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizstOgErU4CvnHdd5SmrMZbHmHNuky2r7QGYH8k12f7P0NPv5SrMsh9YV8TxGvhNt2ybcckVouW2iqZVZXZ7XN1DygnchXpLVEiPluyoFfGkmjFwOrvrzhz7VmCTuhCp05nTFkSwTcmwPM/s1600-h/054-4+-+Austrian+World+Cyclists.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190427112256568706" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizstOgErU4CvnHdd5SmrMZbHmHNuky2r7QGYH8k12f7P0NPv5SrMsh9YV8TxGvhNt2ybcckVouW2iqZVZXZ7XN1DygnchXpLVEiPluyoFfGkmjFwOrvrzhz7VmCTuhCp05nTFkSwTcmwPM/s400/054-4+-+Austrian+World+Cyclists.jpg" border="0" /></a>Apparently, the locals and even some of the very poorly trained police are quite friendly and welcoming while officially the whole province is off-limits, especially to independent travel. If caught at the wrong checkpoint at the wrong time, you're basically stopped and have to go back, though sometimes people sneak out of custody and continue until they're caught again. But this couple made it through 3,000km without incident. And there's 2 Americans from the Seattle area. Amazing the number of cyclists around here.<br /><br />From Leona the road turns more and more into the wind and things slow down a notch.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeDuB8RHpx_WFncDHPqAMOJ7pIxOD0RLfzSGCIt4vaNABkFDZjabKKb2Ftns0DpsAnlgGDMR_vQnA9Sv-LFDzjivSv9M8YwboJYOoJ6S0dUirsLHe6HvBQay6UcVqtCgshsBmkDEa6H_L4/s1600-h/054-3+-+Mini+Dust+Storm.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190427112256568690" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeDuB8RHpx_WFncDHPqAMOJ7pIxOD0RLfzSGCIt4vaNABkFDZjabKKb2Ftns0DpsAnlgGDMR_vQnA9Sv-LFDzjivSv9M8YwboJYOoJ6S0dUirsLHe6HvBQay6UcVqtCgshsBmkDEa6H_L4/s400/054-3+-+Mini+Dust+Storm.jpg" border="0" /></a>[a bizarre dust storm - only lasted about 10 seconds but in my next picture, Joe was completely gone]<br />The scenery isn't much different from the start of the trip - more dry near-desert scenery, although we're still treated to views of Fitz-Roy now and then. Plus there's several long lakes with amazing glaciers at their end - but we don't see the grand-daddy of them all - Petito Moreno - you need to travel quite a way down an essentially dead-end road for that one. In theory there are trails & roads connecting this part of Argentina to the Torres-del-Paine region of Chile; but they aren't open to travel. We hear of a Belgian arrested trying to cross the border here. Instead we don't make it to the glacier and still have to do a detour of a few hundred km to get to the Torres.<br /><br />In the end, we make it to the road junction for the road to El Calafate. No good place to camp, so we basically end up in the ditch. At least there's a bit of wind protection.<br /><br />Day 55**************<br />Not a clear morning. Dave and Joe are short of Chilean cash. And we could all use a bit more food and water. And nothing is coming up - nothing for at least 120km and even that may not be much and it's at the end of 70km of ripio. No obvious water sources, either, but so far nothing has been so remote that we've had to carry more than a day's worth.<br /><br />Joe isn't feeling 100%, so in the end, Dave and I head to El Calafate - the hyper-tourist-trap, this place makes El Chalten look amateur. Lots and lots of wood buildings, botiques, T-shirt shops, and (relatively) high-speed internet access. All because of a glacier. Well, not exactly, but it seems to be the main reason people come here (I think there might be some skiing in winter as well). Argentina did pretty well - this part of the world is still under dispute - the Chilean maps tend to have a grey area hear with 2 peaks (of which Fitz-Roy is one) the agreed border and about 100km between them undefined. Chile's side is basically buried under ice while all the beautiful access to these glaciers and peaks is from the de-facto Argentine side. Hence the difficulty of crossing the border around here.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcVQN6pw9sUjySEoC-0jirxi3hIu8WrxTGO0AE0Rh9HYtopVtxQTp5YywDSqEmi-tJLN5rhZbXlTRFIUbVZsVuOlA9CyVImbax1tPyYZ1_QKxx-64gMB6L9YTgTj3t7udNhr8urezikwiB/s1600-h/055-2+-+First+Cycle+Group+in+awhile.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190428362092051874" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcVQN6pw9sUjySEoC-0jirxi3hIu8WrxTGO0AE0Rh9HYtopVtxQTp5YywDSqEmi-tJLN5rhZbXlTRFIUbVZsVuOlA9CyVImbax1tPyYZ1_QKxx-64gMB6L9YTgTj3t7udNhr8urezikwiB/s400/055-2+-+First+Cycle+Group+in+awhile.JPG" border="0" /></a>[First group of cyclists I've seen in a long time - heading out of Calafate while we were heading in]<br />But no time for the glacier. We waste enough of it looking for Chilean money - there's no ATM machines between here and Torres del Paine and folks here aren't too keen on providing us with Chilean pesos. Eventually we find a little exchange shop which will touch the evil currency and after a short hop on the internet and food shopping we finally return to Joe several hours late.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhVUyxx3UcZ0G8mP51YdeuXgAfnXfMS2BKZJJs32SHQ9R6jz6BnDMzvyyNuLS5JZIWewDq_zyxIQ_PvxWga_97X0rh80rgY1ElZvj0mbncD5jvDHUq_svW2_0-D5-4GdzbqX-n1LIShoXU/s1600-h/055-1+-+Amazing+Hostel+in+Calafate.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190427116551536018" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhVUyxx3UcZ0G8mP51YdeuXgAfnXfMS2BKZJJs32SHQ9R6jz6BnDMzvyyNuLS5JZIWewDq_zyxIQ_PvxWga_97X0rh80rgY1ElZvj0mbncD5jvDHUq_svW2_0-D5-4GdzbqX-n1LIShoXU/s400/055-1+-+Amazing+Hostel+in+Calafate.jpg" border="0" /></a>[this passes for a youth hostel in Calafate]<br />Sorry. Not the funnest way to spend a good chunk of the day - hunkered down at a road junction in the wind.<br /><br />For us, we caught the winds just right - getting to Calafate before they got too strong, then riding out of town on some amazing tailwinds - speeds around 50km/h for good chunks of road. I think the whole 32km or so was over in well under an hour.<br /><br /><br /><br />With Joe we again ride into the sunset. We cover ground quick, but also hit a somewhat unexpected major climb - we're kinda heading towards the ocean here, but need to hop out of the river valley and the climb is substantial - something like 700m. In the end, we don't make the summit for deciding to camp for the night - another night on the side of the road - in Fletch's words - I don't shower much.<br /><br />Night finds us at an odd spot - something of a family memorial is here - car wreck we guess since parts of the memorial are from a car, and the sky is just amazing tonight. The clouds and the sunset - here's a few shots:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX9qaJT3PWGSrrZ011z6LMslks4V8M2K_uQdiM7tNcNQztnRkvR1qBFJp-4h3tDPi18WN6-Mv-N2tMa6D8AIdg6svEHczFNM8aHVstizJVUnTSJa7r_8pFqB5g1esMWVw1wQUuwArps9EV/s1600-h/055-4+-+Evening+Clouds.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190428366387019186" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX9qaJT3PWGSrrZ011z6LMslks4V8M2K_uQdiM7tNcNQztnRkvR1qBFJp-4h3tDPi18WN6-Mv-N2tMa6D8AIdg6svEHczFNM8aHVstizJVUnTSJa7r_8pFqB5g1esMWVw1wQUuwArps9EV/s400/055-4+-+Evening+Clouds.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKbrmm0jl4uOhJRU1jGjB6POz2BBFpFV8PsOOdHMmtcUCecFYIw4Iu3FVUKshyvkoKcWwiCJHoXXzZVXQ2etB5WFiilcUnLgMK6v0fxhX10Tw6Zkr9_gqNf1GinAq2QTQrBaixOpepoFAc/s1600-h/055-5+-+Evening+Clouds+-+Camp.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190428366387019202" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKbrmm0jl4uOhJRU1jGjB6POz2BBFpFV8PsOOdHMmtcUCecFYIw4Iu3FVUKshyvkoKcWwiCJHoXXzZVXQ2etB5WFiilcUnLgMK6v0fxhX10Tw6Zkr9_gqNf1GinAq2QTQrBaixOpepoFAc/s400/055-5+-+Evening+Clouds+-+Camp.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />DAY 56************************<br />Well, why do today what you can put off til the day after tomorrow. Morning comes and there's still plenty of pass to go. Not the funnest way to start the day, but the weather is fairly decent and we manage to get to the top and start heading down an immensely long and very gradual downhill - something like 400m down over the next 100km or so with very small rolling hills along the way. The easy roads come to an abrupt end after 40km or so and so does Dave's journey. About 15km from the junction of Ruta 40 and the road to Esperanza, he hears a cracking noise and his rear wheel starts to wobble. On closer inspection, his rim has broken. This is not good. We are definitely not in wheel repair country - the road ahead is 70km of pretty rough ripio, followed by at least another 90km on mostly paved road to Puerto Natales, the next small city. Once a rim has a substantial crack, it becomes fairly dangerous to proceed - eventually it will blow-out, so continuing on isn't a good idea. Otherwise, Calafate is now about 85km back the wrong way. After some discussion, we decide the best course of action is for Dave to hitch a ride to a place where he can get the bike fixed. We leave him at a T-junction which is also near a highway department outpost so he's not alone in the wilderness - plus the frequent tour busses and other tourists.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdR4KErN_GJN_Kg_L2B2sOKvZx60_4CNxHwsWiigdI-MsI7vPEqFzlOuJc9HoUqbqn_2bpj3tny_7Qvmnb9_Xg3OBGehJPxla-BbBGguCOYIuFBEeTtreYFFaig0_F2N9M654BKyqJh9pl/s1600-h/056-2+-+Not+Good+-+Camp.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190428370681986514" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdR4KErN_GJN_Kg_L2B2sOKvZx60_4CNxHwsWiigdI-MsI7vPEqFzlOuJc9HoUqbqn_2bpj3tny_7Qvmnb9_Xg3OBGehJPxla-BbBGguCOYIuFBEeTtreYFFaig0_F2N9M654BKyqJh9pl/s400/056-2+-+Not+Good+-+Camp.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />In the end two American ladies from LA pick him up and take him to El Calafate - but we won't know this for several more days. The road for me and Joe is about to get a lot less friendly.<br /><br /><br />We keep heading south, Joe's still not at 100% and the road gets rougher and rougher and the headwinds pick up.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQEyQKfIVzYgSrAKhg23HKKQCv_KA7d1UfuQOq7jeVXZhfQKxWcqjA7PN3LQt2c3ovRk3qzA7wRURC3BMlm-aNbwwxmADmG-6-4oef49NeX66mi_wD_j7iol9nJOmdbPRpmWGDf64eSsMy/s1600-h/056-3+-+Back+on+Ruta+40+-+Camp.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190428374976953826" style="CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQEyQKfIVzYgSrAKhg23HKKQCv_KA7d1UfuQOq7jeVXZhfQKxWcqjA7PN3LQt2c3ovRk3qzA7wRURC3BMlm-aNbwwxmADmG-6-4oef49NeX66mi_wD_j7iol9nJOmdbPRpmWGDf64eSsMy/s400/056-3+-+Back+on+Ruta+40+-+Camp.jpg" border="0" /></a>[Back on good ol' Ruta 40]<br />And the temperatures start to drop and near evening the skies are looking less and less friendly. We basically just stop riding around 7:30pm and find camp in the desert - in a curve of the road offering reasonable wind protection. And then it starts to rain... Did I mention I need a shower?<br /><br />OK, a few vids: True bike love - carrying it over a river, walking it through the mud, plus some trail and road commentary.<br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwefW6bhldhnXvA4aZQFcKSRWTftB3sg-9PgaFyP9ctbytZXS0FKWSwUHZ5h44HIcTYZrvE1eHjKyw3A041Gw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwZaRoni5XBNkjrdqviDK4UxjdIWCuSf8yCFWWOxBblh3bAfUApJ3yEGATbdF2YEDYD-OTks7IYLkwPp7InXg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwXtBHnmAsXxjlUGQip3WwSTFUF4Y0Vn1HjkgWFA2CdgcXYvdatQjNWHl4GjCkv1htMCe7MlX4cDIHkaTbsXw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwDVOTocG2GM6kfPbiCSX11bP3N9lXkp9anJ9dt6pM_PQ790Kqhzmw0twhBoSYgSicq3Di6n5wK923uysrh5w' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6828427661943447202.post-69269231219349850852008-04-06T20:40:00.000-07:002008-04-15T21:36:21.776-07:00Week 7 - the end of the Carretera Australe - and I finally learn how to spell it. As I write this on the first day of week 8, I'm finally getting close to catching up. We are currently splitting camp with 3 different cycle groups and a sole hiker - I don't think I've ever been to a more cycle-centric campsite outside of a 24h race. Bizzare - the more remote the locale, the more us eccentric types strive to get there - but it sure is a beautiful locale here on Lago OHiggins - barren landscape and spectacular icefields... but more on that next week. Now back to the final week on the Carre Tera...<br /><br /><br />Day 43*****************<br /><br />Begins at the small campground at decision point.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOLbZwuyepuSc3uWjyMpbjx8RzTtLsWgcU0LAYPaOGTM53FIZMphVdmz8JUyM2-JlTWOvoFmde1ED9xm1stGeDXLydygsmCODpyUDs43_qpoPjeQqH0wpmeXoMpHF5DQo8Cm-MfqW5oRYn/s1600-h/043-0+-+Morning+Mountains.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOLbZwuyepuSc3uWjyMpbjx8RzTtLsWgcU0LAYPaOGTM53FIZMphVdmz8JUyM2-JlTWOvoFmde1ED9xm1stGeDXLydygsmCODpyUDs43_qpoPjeQqH0wpmeXoMpHF5DQo8Cm-MfqW5oRYn/s400/043-0+-+Morning+Mountains.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186347748400415474" border="0" /></a><br />An uncertain ferry leaves at 11am - well it leaves, we just don't know if we will. But we bite the bullet and all head for Puerto Ibanez. On the way we cross paths with the same Belgian and French duo we saw in Coyhaique 2 days ago.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwaY6KDdDJ2gXzpvwszl672VRBEq5o50Dr7vT7UBYxbdErAVx4hNfgRhHhi__00_VgwcNMGvaffXgdqCeROMs3gH0gOg8Er3bzADLw7i0BmW68fHDYII1nnTiyV0jWUatS2MkiZHVkCjKM/s1600-h/043-2+-+Belgian+and+Frenchman.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwaY6KDdDJ2gXzpvwszl672VRBEq5o50Dr7vT7UBYxbdErAVx4hNfgRhHhi__00_VgwcNMGvaffXgdqCeROMs3gH0gOg8Er3bzADLw7i0BmW68fHDYII1nnTiyV0jWUatS2MkiZHVkCjKM/s400/043-2+-+Belgian+and+Frenchman.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186348027573289746" border="0" /></a><br />Their tour is winding down - this junction is their final point on the CA (they will head E into Argentina) - they need to get back to the wives and bikes are getting a bit frayed - but all in good spirits and they plan to take a few bus trips to wind down - including heading to Ushuaia. They choose wisely based on our headwinds later in the day.<br /><br />We also see the first touring family -<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifrmNL47R1jsV_koPvG7frnpnwJNZE5vwfUtjYuLm5llcuPXu6Ibli7wSXiAfdT5dnJuXwC19hvMOXbxPqKGDVRi27NsLgLVwQTlprwORQxgewqZ_00T0WKLbwKu2Fk6Gcxgk0yuNk2dF9/s1600-h/043-1+-+Cycling+Family.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifrmNL47R1jsV_koPvG7frnpnwJNZE5vwfUtjYuLm5llcuPXu6Ibli7wSXiAfdT5dnJuXwC19hvMOXbxPqKGDVRi27NsLgLVwQTlprwORQxgewqZ_00T0WKLbwKu2Fk6Gcxgk0yuNk2dF9/s400/043-1+-+Cycling+Family.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186348027573289730" border="0" /></a><br />2 trailers - both he and she are dragging one, one is for cargo (hers) and one with what I'm assuming is a toddler although I didn't check it out first hand. Now I've seen a touring family before, but this is definitely on the extreme end of things - going down one of the most desolate highways in the world with a toddler in a bike trailer - but I suppose you take it slow enough and don't do this for 6 months at a time and it wouldn't be too bad.<br /><br />As for us - we again take the easy route for the ferry - and it really is easy - nearly all downhill and all tailwind. As we near town, the tail wind goes from reasonable to very strong - just blowing us along - all the way to the uncertain ferry. No we can't board, need to wait for the horses, hay, cars, trucks, passengers...<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNSy9eA8OUcTTnUVWMqjpDmJ3STf_ZAtln9Ngx2v6CT5BcUGXEFd4YsJYvY5NNyWU8mAXQEgnMLX1ay47X-w0n1m9bmLC40xCnMcZVh3cm3Pdv2Lq1UWVo0HlDgHnhPdgi6vO685SSwRoQ/s1600-h/043-3+-+Horses+on+ferry.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNSy9eA8OUcTTnUVWMqjpDmJ3STf_ZAtln9Ngx2v6CT5BcUGXEFd4YsJYvY5NNyWU8mAXQEgnMLX1ay47X-w0n1m9bmLC40xCnMcZVh3cm3Pdv2Lq1UWVo0HlDgHnhPdgi6vO685SSwRoQ/s400/043-3+-+Horses+on+ferry.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186348031868257058" border="0" /></a>[some of the many items transported around here]<br /><br />More than a bit of nailbiting, especially given the now very difficult 30km we'd have to backtrack, plus an extra 40km or so on tough ripio on the CA. With a few minutes to go, we get the green light and can board without a reservation. Ferries down here are definitely a more hit-miss affair - it helps to book ahead, but that can be tricky if you don't know where you'll be. Passengers we meet tell us they were told the ferry was full for a week solid, but they could show up and try their luck anyway (which worked for them). So we get a ride to Chile Chico - on Lago General Carrera - or Lago Buenos Aires (depends on your country). The 2nd largest lake in South America - after Titicaca - both of which span 2 countries. It is very long, but not too far across - in our case about 2 hours and we navigate down one arm and across the lake. Scenery has definitely returned to near-desert conditions and Chile Chico bills itself as a sun city. Definitely true on this hot, windy day. We get supplies in town, have a quick lunch, and are soon heading west to rejoin the CA.<br /><br />And to rejoin the wind. It really blows around here. We're now making up for our morning tailwind with just brutal headwinds - not quite as bad as near Chos Malal in week 2, but definitely the kind of thing that cuts you to size.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzfyhPmluUnXBDDbciNVvI_pkHyspp0LY6R_f7dbx7S1qHuH50md7s4gtahJLBbE7Vs-uIjJa6ELKAaKyMsWPuKAZ0TR9TfpQX08D3Yo3XRREODgqemIFSXvwRfi3iN1OMClw24Qat45PR/s1600-h/043-4+-+Hot+evening+road.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzfyhPmluUnXBDDbciNVvI_pkHyspp0LY6R_f7dbx7S1qHuH50md7s4gtahJLBbE7Vs-uIjJa6ELKAaKyMsWPuKAZ0TR9TfpQX08D3Yo3XRREODgqemIFSXvwRfi3iN1OMClw24Qat45PR/s400/043-4+-+Hot+evening+road.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186348031868257074" border="0" /></a>[looks like a brutally hot evening road - though mostly it was just really windy]<br />But the road quality is surprisingly good. OK, the occasional 15% grades are brutal, but despite being unpaved, the road is very hard and quite smooth. Just to keep things interesting, throw a few failures into the mix - first Dave's rear derailleur acts up, and once that is taken care of, I get the first flat of the entire trip - amazing, combined we've gone around 9000km and a carelessly discarded staple is the first flat. Not bad - highly recommend the Schwalbe Marathon XR tires - unbelievably durable (more on equipment in later posts).<br /><br />So after 90min or so of delays, we continue on to evening and the lovely river Bano (i.e. toilet) -<br /> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnegqbeI8w3Uu7L0xZPcMEqwmtEomD2m5c6NgG8GiW3LG_XhdFYEIENrD_XdwUic3Lcufluq-3CvEQBjvFyJmSkLVvFsfC9ipuqL18j7fCmE4XasasZSzW_SJlQ-cA33k4vqLR2ZeXifAq/s1600-h/043-5+-+Rio+Bano.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnegqbeI8w3Uu7L0xZPcMEqwmtEomD2m5c6NgG8GiW3LG_XhdFYEIENrD_XdwUic3Lcufluq-3CvEQBjvFyJmSkLVvFsfC9ipuqL18j7fCmE4XasasZSzW_SJlQ-cA33k4vqLR2ZeXifAq/s400/043-5+-+Rio+Bano.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186348036163224386" border="0" /></a>[Lovely river canyon]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGydrfKOU0XNI6CCkvwu2aaW3H8Qp31fAdgQMLMHsVdU6_VmYWLUvk3Kuq8q0h0DYDnB38ldA08Z37TyN2ReCJZZ7Rlw7AYCyDwXs2-QoqBWkexKqIzigZKgs2z7xAh3mNzuWc97Uq40Gp/s1600-h/043-6+-+no+its+really+Rio+Bano.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGydrfKOU0XNI6CCkvwu2aaW3H8Qp31fAdgQMLMHsVdU6_VmYWLUvk3Kuq8q0h0DYDnB38ldA08Z37TyN2ReCJZZ7Rlw7AYCyDwXs2-QoqBWkexKqIzigZKgs2z7xAh3mNzuWc97Uq40Gp/s400/043-6+-+no+its+really+Rio+Bano.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186348336810935122" border="0" /></a>[but it really is called bano]<br />reasonably clear water which, after filtering, tastes fine. But ya gotta wonder about the name. It is a fairly scenic canyon though, and after looking around for about 40min, we decide that an old, abandoned cut of the road has most of the desirable campsite characteristics - low roadside visibility, nearby water, some wind protection, only the gravel ground is a bit tough, but the best we can do at the moment. And the views are great. So Rio Bano is home for one night.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGOEtUOiDvCoAQCWk_iXMNCVjBkyKxoIAJFrABAel30IiytCuhQ3G35Z3teIUKWlJfAF1CMoP49YPdF48UuiekW44V1_VYOh514w8rgszJd3JsyY5bZcoxIdot8BH8qXPhSQPVGK6rtX5V/s1600-h/043-7+-+Experimental+evening+shot.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGOEtUOiDvCoAQCWk_iXMNCVjBkyKxoIAJFrABAel30IiytCuhQ3G35Z3teIUKWlJfAF1CMoP49YPdF48UuiekW44V1_VYOh514w8rgszJd3JsyY5bZcoxIdot8BH8qXPhSQPVGK6rtX5V/s400/043-7+-+Experimental+evening+shot.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186348341105902434" border="0" /></a>[experimental evening shot at Bano - that scorched earth is a truck heading uphill in a 15-second exposure]<br />Roads are generally decent, if very up and down, except for the morning which is nearly all downhill at a reasonable grade.<br /><br />Day 44*********************<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAV0W3Uzxc60EhKFQGEpQrsGOl4NREWPlcWSgmSqKl3Aei5P22tzzSaf2SDY15FJSVhvbiA8jKs8Gu68a_hikS9qcAGFVwO9Ob_00P8RI3z0NBjwpOmCq2tSOolaIHerMqV7MUa8RGCdEF/s1600-h/044-1+-+Another+beautiful+sunrise.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAV0W3Uzxc60EhKFQGEpQrsGOl4NREWPlcWSgmSqKl3Aei5P22tzzSaf2SDY15FJSVhvbiA8jKs8Gu68a_hikS9qcAGFVwO9Ob_00P8RI3z0NBjwpOmCq2tSOolaIHerMqV7MUa8RGCdEF/s400/044-1+-+Another+beautiful+sunrise.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186348341105902450" border="0" /></a>[Another beautiful morning]<br />Get a pretty decent start to what is easily the most brutal day roadwise on the CA. Initially winds are ok, but gradually return, but the road which yesterday was fairly smooth and hard-packed becomes softer and looser and much more up and down as the day grinds on. Today we will do more elevation than any other day (except my pass to Chile), and we won't gain or lose any altitude - just up 500ft, down 500ft, and nice and steep and loose. I estimate grades at around 12-15% on gravel. Not fun. But the weather is glorious and so is the lake. We mostly hug the coastline, past a local mine, and more spectacular coastal road.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVk7kSDOmfwurXHh7N29RltdSUgpNedZlQMjP-Xoo_zyEsg8Z6D-fMHXIyi-oQK880oWw0S_SOwICdPNbbsh7jszOr1U7KcJvv9v22_UEgYfuLzib5KXtxFomljiJQzbB5iqnILQme-cnb/s1600-h/044-3+-+Beautiful,+Terrible+road.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVk7kSDOmfwurXHh7N29RltdSUgpNedZlQMjP-Xoo_zyEsg8Z6D-fMHXIyi-oQK880oWw0S_SOwICdPNbbsh7jszOr1U7KcJvv9v22_UEgYfuLzib5KXtxFomljiJQzbB5iqnILQme-cnb/s400/044-3+-+Beautiful,+Terrible+road.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186348345400869778" border="0" /></a>[Beautiful, terrible road]<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbaNlsW6jHQFYDc4du8jkhKaPLEtY_9pxeHXMJCAHdo4XPv6XjphP1w2fRDtR5qtCg_pMNB1eGI2QP9sYv2gXkWX74xqQwDmCju3jTE3xZwnF8IUa4ef7qDO2Wyu2FiMaBPooKgNfU7ZO2/s1600-h/044-4+-+Beautiful,+Terrible+road+2.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbaNlsW6jHQFYDc4du8jkhKaPLEtY_9pxeHXMJCAHdo4XPv6XjphP1w2fRDtR5qtCg_pMNB1eGI2QP9sYv2gXkWX74xqQwDmCju3jTE3xZwnF8IUa4ef7qDO2Wyu2FiMaBPooKgNfU7ZO2/s400/044-4+-+Beautiful,+Terrible+road+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186348757717730210" border="0" /></a>[Beautiful, terrible road 2 - that's Dave way down there]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYEeQ-DSWIkSvSN8fX1_jwJpHr_HnLR6V1kuTXZWdDl3GHSotWtp95IwLeRx8EvcBqxKHBOnJdPH4XrEy6CO2U-kUjgL0G5dWFUPN-f0r8yvZAWhcbOaftrC9DzF77pyhDQFNuUJp1td1/s1600-h/044-2+-+Beautiful,+Terrible+road.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYEeQ-DSWIkSvSN8fX1_jwJpHr_HnLR6V1kuTXZWdDl3GHSotWtp95IwLeRx8EvcBqxKHBOnJdPH4XrEy6CO2U-kUjgL0G5dWFUPN-f0r8yvZAWhcbOaftrC9DzF77pyhDQFNuUJp1td1/s400/044-2+-+Beautiful,+Terrible+road.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186348341105902466" border="0" /></a>[Beautiful, terrible road 3 - this really is an awesome place]<br />By evening, we start to move away from the lake and meet yet another South African couple. They came by bus and are heading in the opposite direction now - same crappy road,<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh625883XjkSDwZG9THcG0lo5T2nIeejWBHShmmBZEcIvyDDTr8z6ahiN5LSEZnxfDHAPSb2z7Rfbdmlnaej6B7-ypIdxqqB8R4Byxu-DUhDw-6HGzyd9gTGCyNcH2bGsjELxkdIZeeG9hw/s1600-h/044-5+-+Beautiful,+Terrible+road+3.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh625883XjkSDwZG9THcG0lo5T2nIeejWBHShmmBZEcIvyDDTr8z6ahiN5LSEZnxfDHAPSb2z7Rfbdmlnaej6B7-ypIdxqqB8R4Byxu-DUhDw-6HGzyd9gTGCyNcH2bGsjELxkdIZeeG9hw/s400/044-5+-+Beautiful,+Terrible+road+3.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186349715495437298" border="0" /></a>[crappy road in the evening]<br /> but they have a pretty decent chance of good tailwinds. Oh - and they're also from Pretoria - small world - in fact they're the same couple as last week - I just don't recognize them - now with bikes & sunglasses. So after removing foot from mouth we exchange a few tips and road details and wish each other well. But we never do make it to the campground they saw - instead, we find another river and ask the landowner for permission to camp - which is given. So night finds us along the Rio Sargento 1ro Carabinero S San Martin - hard to remember, but the nighttime views of the moon are quite nice.<br /><br />Roads were basically ridiculously tough - loose, washboards, and nothing but up and down all day - for the first 50km we average nearly 5% grade (i.e. 1200m of climbing w/no elevation gain so 2400m total over 50km) - that's pretty much insane, I was complaining about Utah way back in '96 and it was around 3% and paved.<br /><br />Day 45**************************<br />Wise cycling rule: when camping next to river, most directions are uphill. Morning finds us along the same oddly named river and the same crappy road. So the first order of business is a climb and as my day is just getting started, my bike computer is clear and I can say this climb is about 100m vertical in 700m of roadway, or about 14% on lousy gravel. Not the funnest way to start the day, but at least it gets the heart pumping.<br /><br />On the way up, we come across what I endearingly refer to as a search and destroy vehicle - this one is a Swiss edition and at first they just snap a photo and breeze by (well, kick up a lot of dust like every car),<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrATL4_8fiQuS2MlOuQWSwAFHcWX4zfUXN2p89QwfttaPf7ereaB4S4i-I3dAE4yhuaEXVtoXNmNPbxOqLPl_5nybD6lDuPDPRbL80rlti5KUuVMZ-lsPdI8w8DRebYD6CWCv24YjHL_7/s1600-h/045-1+nothing+like+an+early+morning+ascent.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrATL4_8fiQuS2MlOuQWSwAFHcWX4zfUXN2p89QwfttaPf7ereaB4S4i-I3dAE4yhuaEXVtoXNmNPbxOqLPl_5nybD6lDuPDPRbL80rlti5KUuVMZ-lsPdI8w8DRebYD6CWCv24YjHL_7/s400/045-1+nothing+like+an+early+morning+ascent.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186349715495437314" border="0" /></a>[on our way up]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXzsT2XsTydUHcsFtzQXvbTtAh7Yv7ZO1mFCdC749o1H9RyXO8euov0rm5vcou2DAHWioZxHDM6nT8vvxWQ-VltVBSZvfKS71P0gLszPEWrEHtQIvbzgofa0sbGUoCgN_lmOeiJbsMlSRn/s1600-h/045-2+With+an+S+and+D+to+kick+up+the+dust.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXzsT2XsTydUHcsFtzQXvbTtAh7Yv7ZO1mFCdC749o1H9RyXO8euov0rm5vcou2DAHWioZxHDM6nT8vvxWQ-VltVBSZvfKS71P0gLszPEWrEHtQIvbzgofa0sbGUoCgN_lmOeiJbsMlSRn/s400/045-2+With+an+S+and+D+to+kick+up+the+dust.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186349719790404626" border="0" /></a>[passed by a Swiss S & D vehicle]<br /><br />but we catch up with them an hour or so later along this beautiful lake<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2hMkGSeIOuGWFkQBrEUSLbwlV_7CuASkf5UP33zkP6n6vF3ai7Ea3ZplAq-i6gHeumMwDnTqrfiVqaO5GGOFt3G6gOLuP8Cn2UH_VFt_saFnYAZCmklT5B2KoNbA5JXR5XQjKdK0R_OFI/s1600-h/045-3+More+beautiful+scenery.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2hMkGSeIOuGWFkQBrEUSLbwlV_7CuASkf5UP33zkP6n6vF3ai7Ea3ZplAq-i6gHeumMwDnTqrfiVqaO5GGOFt3G6gOLuP8Cn2UH_VFt_saFnYAZCmklT5B2KoNbA5JXR5XQjKdK0R_OFI/s400/045-3+More+beautiful+scenery.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186349728380339234" border="0" /></a><br />and get our first tour [of the vehicle] - quite a comfortable way to visit the non-first world - shower, kitchen, fridge, and well, not armor plating, but let's say it's a few notches up from your average motorhome. They've been touring the world for several years now - through Asia, Australia, and now South America, shipping ol' S&D along the way.<br /><br />You'd think the roads couldn't get much worse than yesterday, but you'd be wrong. Well, not that much different really, but just before we rejoined the Carretera, an incredible downhill - pretty much mountain-biking-grade, just not single-track. I put it at over 20% and really loose, so I mostly skid down, which isn't that easy to do on a bike with this much pack.<br /><br />Once we rejoing the CA, conditions actually improve quite a bit - the road is a bit smoother, and soon we reach the headwaters of the mighty Baker river at Puerto Betrand - an awesome sight,<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTEBZ4qCnDIf7KhOqja6B9AY9VIKPynx7BTqdyOtbvj9Ky33WToilWKsR7DcXAmTtHve8NyGPGbRJrTd1OEOHpaYysvW2HtvwsUi5MGMGyMrzqdgXw4CMYQ3eVx3x_2tphhIAUSmPtekW/s1600-h/045-4+Start+of+Rio+Baker.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTEBZ4qCnDIf7KhOqja6B9AY9VIKPynx7BTqdyOtbvj9Ky33WToilWKsR7DcXAmTtHve8NyGPGbRJrTd1OEOHpaYysvW2HtvwsUi5MGMGyMrzqdgXw4CMYQ3eVx3x_2tphhIAUSmPtekW/s400/045-4+Start+of+Rio+Baker.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350239481447474" border="0" /></a>[Baker - check out the amazing video at the end of this post]<br />but possibly not much longer. Word of mouth is that this is the first river likely to be dammed for hydro here in the south. There's quite an anti-hydro campaign, Patagonia sin Represas, but they seem to be losing. The north needs juice and fossil fuel is getting pricy.<br /><br />But for now it flows free - just an amazing quantity of water rushing out of the lake and immediately into whitewater. This would have been the place for rafting,<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimhgAIeaslvZn9OTpVu3fYU4C1JgFY6g6xZnvfpayTaqGs7mbKCB9c3sUrIIYBwMdHh5js6bl6KIhOkFadYturOhmd180XvFEUAptynZqwvb8cWY8BO41v0qZqsoCDMO9_TioFnBUm7c9L/s1600-h/045-5+More+Rapids+on+Rio+Baker.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimhgAIeaslvZn9OTpVu3fYU4C1JgFY6g6xZnvfpayTaqGs7mbKCB9c3sUrIIYBwMdHh5js6bl6KIhOkFadYturOhmd180XvFEUAptynZqwvb8cWY8BO41v0qZqsoCDMO9_TioFnBUm7c9L/s400/045-5+More+Rapids+on+Rio+Baker.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350239481447490" border="0" /></a>[a bit further downstream]<br />but time is starting to get a bit tight for making it to Ushuaia by the end of summer...<br /><br />So we move on, almost make it to Cochrane before nightfall. But only almost. Another night on the side of the road,<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRvi-9-i9tFPeI5XFc0NVXufsjs7gp5x5O3IkjrVfwaRsX_Koa51SkaJe77To8t1ldyz5wB7AWAPHQQMNLPq8sK0Tomj5APJ1G6eB15gL-EXzYVA9YUdhdySyfOjbHf3-rfeoIc_pUPvyj/s1600-h/045-6+Camping+on+the+road.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRvi-9-i9tFPeI5XFc0NVXufsjs7gp5x5O3IkjrVfwaRsX_Koa51SkaJe77To8t1ldyz5wB7AWAPHQQMNLPq8sK0Tomj5APJ1G6eB15gL-EXzYVA9YUdhdySyfOjbHf3-rfeoIc_pUPvyj/s400/045-6+Camping+on+the+road.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350243776414802" border="0" /></a><br />right near the confluence of the Baker and Chacabuco rivers. Beautiful evening - the weather on the CA is definitely unusual - it's been a very dry summer.<br /><br />DAY 46*****************************<br />Cochrane - the last little population of note down here - still have fresh fruits & vegs in the stores + semi-decent internet access. Plus loads of little shops, hospedaje, even a few campgrounds. Would have been nice to get here yesterday. Oh well. There's an Austrian S&D vehicle parked in the square and I get to practice my German again. This time Dave & I get some coffee, tea, and Manner - the Vienese hazelnut specialty. This one is a bit more motorhomey, but still fairly tough, although they had to replace their gearbox recently which involved a lot of logistics, rental cars, customs problems (in their case they had to actually go from southern Argentina to Buenos Aires to clear the part - how can you even call yourself a customs agent if you don't make import and export a mind-blowing ordeal). Makes my hub seem fairly trivial. This repair cost them several weeks + several thousand Euros (not including the actual part which was used & fairly cheap). I suppose I could replace just about everything for that, but getting it here is still a big problem.<br /><br />Anyway, just a couple days left on the CA. We scurry around - Dave & Joe check the internet and I decide the more people the less bandwidth, so time to look for a shower. I find the local campground, identify the showers, then politely ask if I may use them. I'm more than willing to pay at this point. But the owner is busy with lunch and politely informs me that this is an impossibilty. Now I really have a problem with this. Haven't showered in several days and there's not a great deal of campgrounds ahead. And she won't take my money? This is about the only time I defy a property owner - since she's busy with lunch, I just walk over and shower anyway. The quickest one I've ever taken, but fortunately the person impatiently banging on the door turns out to be another Israeli hitchhiker trying to get at whatever charging device they had plugged into the outlet in the shower room.<br /><br />Then it's back to regroup, and I go online and after 2 minutes Joe stops by to tell me the shop closes in 10 and doesn't reopen for a few hours (siesta). So it's a mad dash to stock up on food - the rush is generally not a good thing, although we buy plenty and buy it fast.<br /><br />Finally there's time for a few minutes online and lunch in the central park/plaza, and then back on the road. Gotta make that ferry in 4 more days.<br /><br />Roads are generally decent, definitely easier and less damaged than along the lake. It's actually quite pleasant to ride.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMGEGkDWmRuZ0B0YQM_8-5nzGlVFFzuxMr1v9neBPl1kTbjDPXgNcMTeZZE4-C5kuh2617h4ZRR6HtQrPlPvxPnz2bhk3C768rQAYRGX_Da1Wpvhp8oZj1IVsiHyS7i7DBG_hoCSnzHCH-/s1600-h/046-1+-+More+Rapids.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMGEGkDWmRuZ0B0YQM_8-5nzGlVFFzuxMr1v9neBPl1kTbjDPXgNcMTeZZE4-C5kuh2617h4ZRR6HtQrPlPvxPnz2bhk3C768rQAYRGX_Da1Wpvhp8oZj1IVsiHyS7i7DBG_hoCSnzHCH-/s400/046-1+-+More+Rapids.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350243776414818" border="0" /></a>[a raging river on day 46]<br />Still have a few major climbs, and evening finds us heading downhill along the Rio Barrancoso canyon. Dave gets the campfire going right away while Joe and I have some reservations - it is fairly dangerous at the moment due to the near-drought conditions relative to normal on the CA.<br /><br />We're running low on water but Dave mentions that he hears something besides the big river maybe 100-150m below us, much quieter and he's right, I hear it too.<br /><br />DAY 47************************<br /><br />So next morning I head out to explore and discover water, well, Dave discovered it the night before, I just clear a path through brambles and into this almost subterranean stream - completely overgrown. But the water's clear and we fill up. And 10km down the road we cross the Barrancoso with much easier water access... and a campground, but life goes on. We meet a German couple who are powering along the Carretera - trekking, hiking on the glaciers, heading up north. Not quite as many Israeli hitchhikers around here - the distances between towns is getting quite large.<br /><br />Despite being pressed for time, things are actually moving quite well - we were worried about road conditions, but if anything, they've gotten a bit better than further north, and there's less climbing. Still amazingly scenic - very green, in some areas the place reminds me of a European park - somewhat sparsely placed trees along both sides of the road, growing a green canopy.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjGhqNkHtYp7VDdR7Hu2KpZPDri9Wfm2Gjh-YMS13iC1N3sU1o0-mchKLLNtBgZW-nu-dpJnv0jdiMamr1Ulo5xLHhCBbDqn0cDXEn05aDNiBekF0OKbshKkAia_jnbPvCYPVij_YsmxMW/s1600-h/047-1+-+Just+another+pretty+road.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjGhqNkHtYp7VDdR7Hu2KpZPDri9Wfm2Gjh-YMS13iC1N3sU1o0-mchKLLNtBgZW-nu-dpJnv0jdiMamr1Ulo5xLHhCBbDqn0cDXEn05aDNiBekF0OKbshKkAia_jnbPvCYPVij_YsmxMW/s400/047-1+-+Just+another+pretty+road.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350626028504178" border="0" /></a>[Just a nice roadside scene]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWMrS1KF1mjRbgNfchn36IrlMWC9jQLPjANURjk6qmqM9wRrQQCH2RHQJBIrAl-XrzB_4kDfcdBLOE9bthOOMJguM2BPADtfS3MnZ-892QNjIhOhYXjXQk0ukkMQz7W7k8zfRkKVDtE3rj/s1600-h/047-2+-+Really+Tiny+Owl.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWMrS1KF1mjRbgNfchn36IrlMWC9jQLPjANURjk6qmqM9wRrQQCH2RHQJBIrAl-XrzB_4kDfcdBLOE9bthOOMJguM2BPADtfS3MnZ-892QNjIhOhYXjXQk0ukkMQz7W7k8zfRkKVDtE3rj/s400/047-2+-+Really+Tiny+Owl.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350626028504194" border="0" /></a>[Dave discovered this one - he's pretty good at seeing animals - this is the smallest owl I've ever seen - probably around 15cm tall]<br />By late afternoon, we're close to our big hill of the day - about a 400m climb, and 30km to go to Puerto Yungan and yet another ferry we have to make (3 per day) so we can make the next ferry in OHiggins. At this point, the road splits and you can also visit Tortel. Probably not worth doing the whole CA for, but still a very scenic side tour. Joe and Dave correctly determine that I'm nuts and they head for Yungan and still a fairly long day, while I stash my bags under an unsuspecting bridge and go for the 45km side trip.<br /><br />Tortel is a neat little hamlet - maybe 200 shacks on the side of this bay with no roads, only boardwalks connecting everything. There's a parking lot at the entrance to the town and after that you're walking planks. There's even a single boardwalk over a hill, down the other side, and across a swamp to the local airstrip. Just an odd line through maybe 2km through the countryside. Here are a few pics. I was actually expecting it to be more touristy, but there's really not that much here - almost a bit depressing. I suspect as it becomes more well known the tourism will follow - it was listed as a historic site in Chile a few years ago.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicm9VwyxgtPsJwbzb5HVCV9eljcrmLHDbOaEycAkS2RTMtRO7zUpEfrDaZSd7hIY7p280F_MHSp1Fqo8zgAB4Si8QKuvQ9RmlysMWMt7ymXKj_FUgSfI6qKZH8f9MZu7wd8BhKCOY1LBKn/s1600-h/047-3+-+Road+to+Tortel.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicm9VwyxgtPsJwbzb5HVCV9eljcrmLHDbOaEycAkS2RTMtRO7zUpEfrDaZSd7hIY7p280F_MHSp1Fqo8zgAB4Si8QKuvQ9RmlysMWMt7ymXKj_FUgSfI6qKZH8f9MZu7wd8BhKCOY1LBKn/s400/047-3+-+Road+to+Tortel.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350630323471506" border="0" /></a>[the road to Tortel]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9vssw_4OFgbnJ38XqhLr2Hofyh8fehZ8YIKynsL8pizbzW4jMmzQQ7BmdRj8ZtgFxQoXOywzRJCV745fxciBpYBRUt4oUM0sGzuIz3L6zijnHRqOzSQ0Zjt9XtLfwrC7I_r0PRhvNvFyi/s1600-h/047-4+-+Tortel.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9vssw_4OFgbnJ38XqhLr2Hofyh8fehZ8YIKynsL8pizbzW4jMmzQQ7BmdRj8ZtgFxQoXOywzRJCV745fxciBpYBRUt4oUM0sGzuIz3L6zijnHRqOzSQ0Zjt9XtLfwrC7I_r0PRhvNvFyi/s400/047-4+-+Tortel.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350630323471522" border="0" /></a>[Tortel - there's a boardwalk along the waterfront]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmQl8vx1MRN9NQliUQ_irxDTw9PrDS2v0nUlYhpNnl4FF44fB8GVw6BciRxrQ6SSHzBIFWlaIe7t4bDKIA9h-a0DGfiTxXDllLKNfIqy8EYNbgT4DzVi2QI1sM1ZklAI3YUFPZLpRTVzCo/s1600-h/047-5+-+Road+from+Tortel.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmQl8vx1MRN9NQliUQ_irxDTw9PrDS2v0nUlYhpNnl4FF44fB8GVw6BciRxrQ6SSHzBIFWlaIe7t4bDKIA9h-a0DGfiTxXDllLKNfIqy8EYNbgT4DzVi2QI1sM1ZklAI3YUFPZLpRTVzCo/s400/047-5+-+Road+from+Tortel.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350930971182258" border="0" /></a><br />[the road from Tortel - well, it's the same road as 2 pics up, but I think the rainbow (actually a double rainbow) adds a nice touch]<br />Of course, it's now approaching evening, and I still need to head back to the unsuspecting bridge and make it to the Port. By 8:30pm, or roughly sunset, I'm starting my ascent up the pass.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB_UuYtqLyIXyIYSy9QXhTZukRJ26PCozh6SUx3bJlkN93ZyKKjcJhg_BZVzbEkbwUF4E5uU8IlaCBB7bSNX2HAdq6SJH8JE4KWIYzn41Ka8UWR0q3lm1mrJHUiHjxiaHSTA_JenQjlupK/s1600-h/047-6+-+Last+Picture+before+Dark.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB_UuYtqLyIXyIYSy9QXhTZukRJ26PCozh6SUx3bJlkN93ZyKKjcJhg_BZVzbEkbwUF4E5uU8IlaCBB7bSNX2HAdq6SJH8JE4KWIYzn41Ka8UWR0q3lm1mrJHUiHjxiaHSTA_JenQjlupK/s400/047-6+-+Last+Picture+before+Dark.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350935266149570" border="0" /></a>[the pass before the rain]<br />And rain is gathering. Soon it's pouring and the road is becoming more and more difficult, light is failing, so I opt for both headlight and helmet light - and here on a cold rainy night is when I discover that my AA batteries don't fit into my AA-battery accepting helmet light. Not the best time to figure this out - it's amazing how non-standard standards can be. So it's back to the nearly empty alkalines and a dimmer ride through the night.<br /><br />The uphill goes on and on for quite some time, and then it's time to enjoy the downhill, except it's so steep, and now quite slick, that I'm screeching on the brakes and eventually, after a minor fall (well, only the bike fell down), I decide to walk the bike down hill. Just about the only time I've done this on an actual normal road, but conditions were getting just a bit too exciting.<br /><br />Riding at night is definitely more exciting, even moreso in the rain. In addition to poor visibility, things just pop out at you. At one point, there's this loud rush of water and then a waterfall pops up, right next to the road and it's just gushing water. Looks like it's no more than a few feet from the railing and I can't make it out until I'm about 25m away. It almost scares me. And then lights start to pop up and I wonder where I am - a big helicopter is parked right next to the road - again I figure this out once I get a few meters away. It's getting weird, there's not even supposed to be a town here, but the road keeps going and so do I. Then a few hundred meters down the hill a big ferry pops out of the darkness and it's the end of the road. Very unexpected - town is still 10km away, but it turns out I'm already there. I need to double check this, but there are no other ferries near here, and indeed, the road does end here. This is Yungan in the dark. Now where are Joe and Dave - well, I need to get warm and under shelter. Turns out there's a lovely bus shelter with partial view of the ferry and nobody's around, so this will be home for the night. After a tasty dinner of bread, Doritos, and cookies, I put a few planks together, lay out my sleeping pad and it's lights out.<br /><br />DAY 48************************<br />Sleep is in fits and before long it's getting light again.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg35OCwTR-mSJmmtBR0B60kUi-NvN8zaxHwGHlVE4XstJWIciB99BkPfoPrlPl3uM5ZKKMIJGnTjAinLIPK1Ugd8vlS1xBcDysEkoTuJmiAvmfngT63L5o6QYyBeALGhu8yE1Mk6HFEMd8q/s1600-h/048-3+-+Morning+Ferry.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg35OCwTR-mSJmmtBR0B60kUi-NvN8zaxHwGHlVE4XstJWIciB99BkPfoPrlPl3uM5ZKKMIJGnTjAinLIPK1Ugd8vlS1xBcDysEkoTuJmiAvmfngT63L5o6QYyBeALGhu8yE1Mk6HFEMd8q/s400/048-3+-+Morning+Ferry.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186352859411498290" border="0" /></a>[the ferry in the early morning light]<br />At one point I see a beach which wasn't visible then night before and soon there's someone heading towards the water, it's Dave, but he doesn't see me. So I head over there and they found shelter in some kind of metal fishing? building near shore. So all of us had roofs over our heads and we all made the 10am ferry.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio8tYg0pPUsACWt4lBve9B1fttxyAsYBjs8pDhDmzBOczIW-CA5ZaM-6b-U7IASqR_3LqyMrV8imiUchh808ZuKJI5XgF7Fka_wGOBbymWIAf7xNskOneeJtVAQBafj-EvuUCHB209awlZ/s1600-h/048-1+-+My+Campsite.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio8tYg0pPUsACWt4lBve9B1fttxyAsYBjs8pDhDmzBOczIW-CA5ZaM-6b-U7IASqR_3LqyMrV8imiUchh808ZuKJI5XgF7Fka_wGOBbymWIAf7xNskOneeJtVAQBafj-EvuUCHB209awlZ/s400/048-1+-+My+Campsite.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350935266149586" border="0" /></a>[my home for the night]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjUedOi4PIcP0vvuYWbSqdeHXQhqJ-Xq958jrR-GeVfZeBJFUmCV8qYGHIo77pC5YYDshXfBMiKsw4D-5xX410nktLHQ9TXnBGnqZ7kaOcP15t8YdNnl3x9psbvFa2fC_FkYdXqsYUFab2/s1600-h/048-2+-+Joe+and+Daves+Site.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjUedOi4PIcP0vvuYWbSqdeHXQhqJ-Xq958jrR-GeVfZeBJFUmCV8qYGHIo77pC5YYDshXfBMiKsw4D-5xX410nktLHQ9TXnBGnqZ7kaOcP15t8YdNnl3x9psbvFa2fC_FkYdXqsYUFab2/s400/048-2+-+Joe+and+Daves+Site.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186350935266149602" border="0" /></a>[Dave and Joe's place for the night - that's a tent in the middle of the doorway]<br /><br />We keep getting to more and more remote stretches of the CA. This final stretch requires a ferry and has no population centers - only 105km of road leading to the single hamlet of Villa OHiggins, perhaps 1,000 people. As there are only 3 ferries a day, cars tend to come in bunches either heading for or returning from one of the ferries, and then there's glorious silence for possibly hours at a time. The scenery is approaching my expectations of the end of the world - less and less signs of civilization, lots of swamps, forests, and lakes and less and shorter trees. Reminds me of northern Scandinavia, but definitely a lot less bugs so actually quite the treat.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyk2Lqj7ZPHq13h347bQDh1y5JYCaZ20BqjogiBtvRm-fgW7GOTas_foaGDPRIl8C-PxD_8JbXveZ9omIkXxtQs5Fk1S4ZScGrSiR6T3rqbeUMuWfzmt0I4-aCnQASyHxkqTGBk4ghjoqY/s1600-h/048-4+-+Heaviest+Rider.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyk2Lqj7ZPHq13h347bQDh1y5JYCaZ20BqjogiBtvRm-fgW7GOTas_foaGDPRIl8C-PxD_8JbXveZ9omIkXxtQs5Fk1S4ZScGrSiR6T3rqbeUMuWfzmt0I4-aCnQASyHxkqTGBk4ghjoqY/s400/048-4+-+Heaviest+Rider.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186353108519601474" border="0" /></a>[Still lots of cyclists down here - this was the heaviest one we saw on the trip]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuRJOj_0ROderOPUA26Cs-Fr-5QlWHRn9LXWkDYPsDpCRtTQTf4AWmmRjucBaDllBPYkjpQN-4zfxTdNrtor12ezZHwU08uOKiCS33zox4xNzVeea4Z5AyZUCro2cHgAoOGxe9MYs2XnFA/s1600-h/048-5+-+Riding+to+Fish.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuRJOj_0ROderOPUA26Cs-Fr-5QlWHRn9LXWkDYPsDpCRtTQTf4AWmmRjucBaDllBPYkjpQN-4zfxTdNrtor12ezZHwU08uOKiCS33zox4xNzVeea4Z5AyZUCro2cHgAoOGxe9MYs2XnFA/s400/048-5+-+Riding+to+Fish.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186352846526596338" border="0" /></a>[Bike to fish - a disassembled pole is attached to this frame]<br />We probably could make it to Villa OHiggins if we really wanted to, but what's the point - about 20km before town there's a wonderful lake complete with private beach and dead-wood, so tomorrow we only need only cover the short remaining distance -making that ferry no longer seems too difficult.<br /><br />We spread out on the shores of Lago Cisnes, enjoy dinner, and retire into mild rain.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl7cETeuvqY5mdrqHYr-ubGGBbNeeSdxqJM_W3hGMnbfOAkuoaupo2BZwn-0BqypAmkxmN1kHSKe3wLPXvA-uWCSvHXh-ZpTtRS-OpZ2f8xwpJ08h18K8Qoi5PI_VWwTIh7Iy1NeslFHGl/s1600-h/048-6+-+Lago+Cisnes.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl7cETeuvqY5mdrqHYr-ubGGBbNeeSdxqJM_W3hGMnbfOAkuoaupo2BZwn-0BqypAmkxmN1kHSKe3wLPXvA-uWCSvHXh-ZpTtRS-OpZ2f8xwpJ08h18K8Qoi5PI_VWwTIh7Iy1NeslFHGl/s400/048-6+-+Lago+Cisnes.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186352855116530946" border="0" /></a>[Campsite on Lago Cisnes - 20km from Villa OHiggins]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjktdWkIJmGpB3CuL3XdKX39ViD729vO3uo8nngfgOW588Qmgk5eAQF9Tg6jXCpEiMztRGN7yY8a5UDEj9JVBnF6UBWbjdzTZCjmkGIGDSvdDKUlfOHijyK3ZX0BhuslGTUOksh29Dy4gJU/s1600-h/048-6+-+Contemplative+Joe.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjktdWkIJmGpB3CuL3XdKX39ViD729vO3uo8nngfgOW588Qmgk5eAQF9Tg6jXCpEiMztRGN7yY8a5UDEj9JVBnF6UBWbjdzTZCjmkGIGDSvdDKUlfOHijyK3ZX0BhuslGTUOksh29Dy4gJU/s400/048-6+-+Contemplative+Joe.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189691925524642866" border="0" /></a>[Joe pondering life and outdoor cooking on Lago Cisnes]<br /><br />DAY 49************************<br />Rain continues pretty much non-stop and by 10am we're not looking forward to breaking camp, but things don't really look any more promising than they did a few hours earlier, so Dave and I bite the bullet while Joe's in no rush - could wait another few hours for the rain to clear and the tent to dry out.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiS9iwtnwS2k9ieJ7q_OBpsdMCeH5zaByDmHJ_WuRKNC4ydskOsK7s00UYA3XKfU_S8Q23tQnlWf2g-F7EA-JvIhd6A1Xvhkc6zM28J1b-WwmcjYR2QKWEZT-WBuSJ7PpdK-ydU78um-vI/s1600-h/049-0+-+Lago+Cisnes.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiS9iwtnwS2k9ieJ7q_OBpsdMCeH5zaByDmHJ_WuRKNC4ydskOsK7s00UYA3XKfU_S8Q23tQnlWf2g-F7EA-JvIhd6A1Xvhkc6zM28J1b-WwmcjYR2QKWEZT-WBuSJ7PpdK-ydU78um-vI/s400/049-0+-+Lago+Cisnes.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189691929819610194" border="0" /></a>[Lago Cisnes from the Mirador - viewpoint, next morning as skies are clearing]<br />Joe probably made the right call, within 45 minutes or so the clouds are quickly clearing and the sun even makes an appearance. But we're already most of the way into town. Just the last suspension bridge on the CA and another couple km and we're there - the end of the road - and the start of the next segment in our adventure.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0tZ2XEKtAf-lTI1pQdwhdek__zeQLVKfMCtrKlpbPA5f3BRz_jy1FBDE-lyyQRrLzT0OaKdXrplWdEhfUlIUuL2P9LWShgsXPnVEtnMA68kO_v2weC8lggb_PspMOisv4faANBLgXeuy9/s1600-h/049-1+-+Final+Bridge.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0tZ2XEKtAf-lTI1pQdwhdek__zeQLVKfMCtrKlpbPA5f3BRz_jy1FBDE-lyyQRrLzT0OaKdXrplWdEhfUlIUuL2P9LWShgsXPnVEtnMA68kO_v2weC8lggb_PspMOisv4faANBLgXeuy9/s400/049-1+-+Final+Bridge.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186352855116530962" border="0" /></a>[the last bridge before Villa OHiggins]<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUvFtKM3-peXHGJKWFplCd-4nc5fR9qh2GYp82cG02UCRDYsIgwyigG1vkKxhkGgmXJHtwz8_LWMwDaNuaYfZKsxzHS1q7HL25nAgpm5EBa9ambINb0VZkpfcD3oCkS-CSwUTjXeSDk9oA/s1600-h/049-3+Villa+OHiggins.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUvFtKM3-peXHGJKWFplCd-4nc5fR9qh2GYp82cG02UCRDYsIgwyigG1vkKxhkGgmXJHtwz8_LWMwDaNuaYfZKsxzHS1q7HL25nAgpm5EBa9ambINb0VZkpfcD3oCkS-CSwUTjXeSDk9oA/s400/049-3+Villa+OHiggins.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186352855116530978" border="0" /></a>[Street scene in Villa OHiggins]<br />Villa O'Higgins is a rather bizarre place - a kind of artificial frontier town. Tourism is definitely a key industry, and the rest is rather hazy. Not too much is available here - food is hit or miss, getting say 3 ingredients for a salad may involve going to 4 or 5 different stores to see what's available. And on the way you'll likely be approached and offered accommodation. There's a bit of a rivalry in town. We've had several tourists recommend El Mosco and in town we get another recommendation as well as drive-by from the owner. As we get to know him a bit better he tells us that the whole town is a bit of a government sponsored project - they provide land and housing to encourage settlement down here. But somehow it doesn't quite seem to be enough - this is definitely the end of the road. Jorge from El Mosco is originally from Spain where he worked in dentistry, but decided to change lives and open a hostel here. Definitely a great place to hang out for a day or three while you wait for the next ferry to cross Lago O'Higgins.<br /><br />In our case, the ferry leaves tomorrow and other than the early start for the remaining 7km down the last stretch of gravel road to the dock for the 8am departure, things are looking pretty easy. We enjoy a fairly lazy day complete with the accumulated travellers also waiting to cross the lake - including 2 more pairs of cyclists - Liz and Clive from the UK and Jan Villem and Gudrun from the Netherlands. We'll spend a few memorable days camped together as we continue travel by boat and horse and backcountry trails...<br /><br />Ok - here are a few videos - Joe on some awesome serrucho - washboard, a windy day heading into Puerto Ibanez, one I won't introduce just a bit of a surprise, and finally, the amazing Baker river at its headwater lake]<br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dynSzuXrEMleQw_UOtCSCg3X3QQz4uNp89wOVjlebwnQjeFyVQVOuBRTE1n78-0LiTDzJJkr_IIT7635xFdwA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwm5Pym6dwNsXpYjy8Hc4NF15y4OvaceDCoc91YGx1gscAiHDmvHU3hpsTh2nLAa4qTNJpKRtenwGPi5C44TA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxchMBODQkUeg_FbuuUznGgxdLGSG6hklJ9Yr9emBwgeGj6cU0M2D0K9NjyzMmGWdyu2ygoShHkACU0JZc8Qg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwxLt5yFcx_pvqYCO2NiTqWaqBR7V2t8IhCFmBYPDopvQVsWyFVYlj-pi5IBaGmedA8ibSfSuviVtaNbbUzFQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Marcos Szillathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16477273240810435693noreply@blogger.com0